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THE 



UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK 



AND 



HOUSEKEEPER'S GUIDE 



V 



By MRS. WASHINGTON 






NEW YORK 
HARPER & BROTHERS, FRANKLIN SQUARE 

1886 



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Copyright, 1885, by Harper & Brothers. 



All rights reserved. 



TO 

THE DEAR AND SAYORY MEMORY OF 

PIETRO, LOUIS, FELICLE, DESIREE, DINAH, MARY 

ANNE, OLD HUMPHREY, CHLOE 

DADDY JIM 

AND A HOST OF OTHER HONEST COOKS 

WHO "HAYING BEEN" 

HAVE AS GOOD A RIGHT TO BE "AMONG THE STARS" 

AS 

MORE ILLUSTRIOUS WORTHIES 

THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK 

IS AFFECTIONATELY 

JBcbkatch 



PREFACE. 



"The Unrivalled Cook -Book" is largely compiled 
from private sources. The two hundred Creole receipts 

furnished the Editor by her kind friend, Madame , 

of New Orleans, have been heirlooms in her family for 
more than a century. It is believed that no American 
cook-book has yet contained so complete a list of Creole 
receipts, while other private receipt-books — American 
(North and South), English, Scotch, French, German, Ital- 
ian, and Russian — have been placed at the Editor's dis- 
posal. The old-fashioned English and Scotch receipts for 
spiced beef, Hunter's beef, Devonshire clotted cream, oat- 
meal and white scones, etc., are scarcely to be found in 
other American cook-books, and this is still more true in 
regard to the Russian soups — exceptionally good of their 
kind — the Italian monastic dishes, and many other re- 
ceipts, notably those for macaroni of all kinds. 

A long residence in foreign countries has convinced 
the Editor that the American cuisine, where it is good, 
is, as is the American market, the best in the world. But 
the very fact that our native cuisine is so good and our 
market so superlative — one must have travelled far and 
wide to know how superlative — makes it important to 
have American cooks furnished with the widest possible 
range of receipts, both American and foreign. Should the 
"Unrivalled Cook-Book" be fortunate enough to gain a 



vi PREFACE. 

trial, it is believed that it will form an important addi- 
tion to the list of American cook-books, inasmuch as it 
contains all that they contain, and many other receipts 
quite new to the general American public. All the re- 
ceipts are practical ones ; that is, they have all, or nearly 
all, been tried in the houses of friends, or in that of the 
Editor, and with complete success. In the arrangement 
of the receipts the system adopted has been that of 
" Common-sense in the Household." But nothing else 
has. been borrowed from that, or any other book, except 
one or two receipts, which have been, in every instance, 
noted and acknowledged. £Tot that all the receipts in 
this book are now published for the first time ; but only 
that where an entirely new one has been given, its source 
has been indicated. It is hoped that the public may find 
the ." Unrivalled Cook -Book" a help to all housekeep- 
ers, and a thing 

"Made up of every creature's best." 

The Editor's name is unknown to fame, and would add 
nothing to the success of the book. In calling it " Mrs. 
Washington's Unrivalled Cook-Book" she borrows one 
dear to every son and daughter of the mighty Republic, 
nor can she feel that she has taken an undue liberty in 
calling herself Mrs. Washington. Was not Washington 
the father of his country ? and have not all children a 
right to their father's name? 



CONTENTS. 



PAGE 

HORS D'CEUVRES . 1 

SOUPS 5 

FISH 43 

MEATS 85 

Beef 85 

Veal 102 

Mutton 116 

Lamb s 122 

Pork 123 

POULTRY 140 

GAME. 156 

VEGETABLES . 178 

MACARONI 217 

SALADS 224 

CHEESE 234 

EGGS 240 

MILK AND BUTTER 253 

BREAD, BISCUIT, MUFFINS, Etc 259 

GRIDDLE-CAKES 287 

DESSERT PANCAKES, DUMPLINGS, AND FRITTERS. 292 

CAKE 297 

PASTRY . , 385 

PUDDINGS 354 

SWEET SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS, Etc 381 

SAUCES FOR MEAT AND FISH 386 



v iii CONTENTS. 

PAGE 

CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, AND BLANC-MANGES. 399 

PRESERVES AND FRUIT JELLIES 414 

PICKLES 439 

ICE-CREAM AND WATER-ICES 451 

TEA, COFFEE, AND MADE DRINKS 458 

DIETARY FOR INFANTS AND INVALIDS 463 

Drinks for Invalids 481 

GENERAL HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM . . . . . .490 

HOUSEHOLD, TOILET, AND MEDICAL RECEIPTS . . 494 

Household Receipts 494 

Toilet Receipts 503 

Medical Receipts . . . 507 

BOTTLED SAUCES, CATSUPS, VINEGARS, AND ES- 
SENCES 517 

BOTTLED DRINKS 526 

MISCELLANEOUS SAVORY DISHES 536 

Entrees. 536 

Simple Entrees 540 

MISCELLANEOUS DESSERTS 555 

HOME-MADE CANDY. 575 

COOKERY FOR CAMPING-OUT 580 

DIRECTIONS FOR CLEANING SILVER, GLASS, CHINA. 

Etc 586 

MISCELLANEOUS HINTS .588 

MENUS 592 

For Spring 592 

For Summer 593 

For Winter 598 

INDEX 601 



THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 



HORS D'CEUVRES. 

Hoes d'osuvres, or zaksuska, or antipasta, as they are 
variously called in France, Russia, and Italy, are of two 
kinds, cold and hot, but more often cold. They should be 
prettily arranged in the small dishes sold for the purpose, 
and placed on the dinner or luncheon table before the be- 
ginning of the meal. Olives, mixed pickles, celery, etc., 
are all hors d'oeuvres, and require no further attention 
than to be arranged prettily and symmetrically in their 
dishes. The hors d'oeuvres given below, however, require 
a certain amount of preparation. 

Artichokes. — Choose small, tender artichokes, pull off 
the leaves, and remove the heart from the bottom of the 
plant. Throw the hearts into vinegar and water for half 
an hour or longer, then wipe dry with a clean cloth, ar- 
range in a hors d'oeuvre dish, salt them lightly, pepper 
them with white pepper, stick little bits of ice among 
them, and serve. 

Boast Almonds (No. 1). — Blanch half a pound of al- 
monds, roll them in fine table salt, and roast them in a 
pan as you would coffee. 

Boast Almonds (No. 2). — Blanch half a pound of al- 
monds as above, immerse in fresh cream for half an hour, 
then dry, roll in salt, and roast. 

1 



2 THE UNKIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Blanched Peanuts. — Blanch, roll in salt, roast as you 
do almonds. 

Radishes. — Wash carefully, and scrape the skin off the 
long radishes. Half peel the round ones, giving the effect 
of an opening rosebud. Arrange in a hors d'ceuvre dish. 

Baited Cucumbers (Cuisiniere Polonaise). — Wash and 
wipe carefully some medium-sized green cucumbers, then 
put them to dry for twenty-four hours in a warm, dry 
place. Have ready a small cask in which white wine has 
been kept. Warm this cask thoroughly, put in the bot~ 
torn a layer of the cucumbers, chopped fennel and cherry 
leaves, with a little bruised , coriander-seed. Proceed in 
this way until the cask is three fourths full. Then pour 
on salted water which has boiled and cooled, close the 
cask with the greatest care, and put it in a cool place on 
two pieces of wood. As the water is absorbed, fill up 
with cold boiled water. Turn every day, and scrape off 
the mould if any forms on the exterior. At the close of 
two or three months the upper cover may be taken off 
the barrel, and planks' and a weight put on the cucum- 
bers to keep them down. 

Bologna Sausage. — Cut the Bologna sausage very thin, 
and arrange in a small dish. Garnish with crimped pars- 
ley. 

Caviare. — Use none but the finest Russian caviare. Put 
in a small hors d'ceuvre dish. Garnish with slices of lemon. 

Caviare Sandwiches. — Cut some white bread very thin. 
Spread thickly with caviare. Cut into lozenge - shaped 
sandwiches. Garnish with crimped parsley, and dish. 

Shrimps. — Boil to a bright red, arrange in a small dish, 
surround with crimped parsley, and serve. 



HORS D'CEUVRES. 3 

Variegated Sandwiches.' — Cut an equal quantity of 
pumper-nickel bread and fine white bread very thin ; 
spread with butter, then with the roe of salted herring; 
lay a slice of pumper-nickel on a slice of white bread, 
press firmly together, trim into lozenge -shaped sand- 
wiches, and serve. 

Butter. — The butter for hors d'oeuvre should always be 
formed into tiny pats, or rolled into balls, garnished with 
crimped parsley, and served with little bits of ice. 

Olives. — If the olives should be too salt, soak them in 
fresh water for half an hour before serving. They should 
be completely covered with water, or they will thicken. 

Anchovies. — Always buy, if possible, the Nice ancho- 
vies, they are small, round, and plump. In preparing an- 
chovies for hors d'oeuvre they should be soaked for two 
hours in cold water. Then divide, skin, and bone them, 
arrange in a hors d'oeuvre dish, which must previously 
have been well rubbed with garlic ; dust with roasted pars- 
ley, cover with oiive-oil, and serve. 

Truffles au Vin. — Cook green truffles whole in a sauce- 
pan with some fat meat chopped fine, a bay leaf, parsley, 
thyme, a little bouillon, and half a bottle of white wine ; 
salt and pepper. Remove your truffles from the sauce, 
drain well, and serve on a folded napkin. 

Broiled Mushrooms. — Choose large, fine ones. Peel 
and remove the stems ; place them bottom upwards on the 
gridiron ; fill them with butter in which you have kneaded 
chopped parsley ; salt and pepper a moment before you 
serve them. 

Boiled Peanuts. — Choose fresh well -filled peanuts. 
Carefully selecting them, as nearly as possible, the same 



4 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

size. Boil them in salt water, drain and serve. This is 
generally served before the soup. 

Cucumbers. — Grate your cucumbers, season with salt 
and pepper. Garnish your hors d'oeuvre dish with crimped 
parsley. 

Stuffed Olives. — Remove the stems from the olives, and 
stuff them with anchovies, pounded with enough olive-oil 
to moisten them thoroughly. 

Sardines. — Arrange them carefully in a dish, and gar- 
nish with crimped parsley. 

Sapsago Sandwiches. — Grate some sapsago cheese ; mix 
it to a paste with fresh butter. Cut your slices of bread 
very thin, and all the same size and form ; butter them, 
and arrange them tastefully in the hors d'oeuvre dish. 

Hazelnut Butter. — Pound some ripe hazelnuts with 
fresh butter. Mould it into little forms, and serve. 

Pickled Oysters. — Drain the oysters. Arrange them 
in the hors d'oeuvre dish, on a bed of crimped parsley. 



SOUPS. 



GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 



Chief among soups is beef soup, or beef bouillon. 
That is, it is the safest foundation for soups and sauces. 
Gouffe asserts that without beef it is impossible to have 
what he calls a pot au feu extra. The best soup or stock 
pot is of copper, or iron, enamelled inside with tin, or, 
better still, with porcelain. The best parts of beef to buy 
for the soup pot are the collops, the rump, the brisket, 
and the shin. The shoulder and heel may also be used, 
but do not make such strong soup. Beef, for soup, should 
be extremely fresh, and the same thing is true of all soup 
meat. (Gou&e.) 

The fire should be clear, even, and steady. It should 
not be fierce, and you should carefully avoid allowing it 
to become so, when you replenish it. All soups should 
be cooked steadily and slowly. Be careful never to cover 
the pot quite closely. The cover should be raised on one 
side for about an inch or more. 

The meat should be prepared as follows : First, cut the 
meat from the bones ; secondly, bind it with a cord or cut 
it into strips ; thirdly, crack the bones thoroughly with a 
mallet. 

Put the bones into the pot first, then the meat ; then 
pour on the water, which should be filtered ; allow a 
quart of water to each pound of beef ; heat very slowly, 
and do not add the salt until the meat is pretty well 
cooked ; boil the meat to rags, and be careful to skim 
the soup from time to time. When vegetables are cooked 
in the soup, to give it a flavor, they must be carefully re- 



6 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

moved with a perforated skimmer as soon as they are 
tender. When the soup is strong enough, which will 
probably be in six or seven hours' time, remove the meat, 
strain the soup through a fine strainer, taste, salt again, if 
necessary, and set it away to cool. Use it the next day, 
first skimming off the fat. Then heat, strain again, color 
with caramel, and serve. 



To Make Good Stock. — Boil some bones (of beef, mut- 
ton, veal, poultry, or game, or all together) for four hours ; 
then pour off the liquor into the stock-pot, and add to 
each gallon the meat off a knuckle of veal, a pound of 
lean beef, a pound of absolutely lean bacon, all sliced fine, 
with two or three scraped qarrots, two onions, two tur- 
nips, two heads of celery sliced, and two quarts of water. 
Stew until the meat is boiled to rags, being careful not to 
let it burn. 

To Clarify Stock. — Put the stock over a good fire, and, 
when boiling, add the white of one egg to each quart of 
stock, proceeding as follows : beat the whites of the eggs 
up well in a little water ; then add a little hot stock ; beat 
to a froth, and pour gradually into the pot ; then beat 
the whole hard and long ; allow it to boil up once, and 
immediately remove and strain through a thin flannel 
cloth. 

Asparagus Green Soup. — Three pounds of veal, cut 
into small pieces; one half pound of salt pork; three 
bunches of asparagus ; one gallon of water. 

Cut the entire stalk of the asparagus into pieces an 
inch long; and when the meat has boiled one hour, add 
half of the asparagus to the liquor in the pot; boil half 
an hour longer and strain, pressing the asparagus pulp 
very hard to extract the green coloring ; add the other 
half of the asparagus (the heads only, which should be 
kept in cold water until you are ready for them), and boil 



SOUPS. 7 

twenty minutes more ; then serve with small bread dice 
fried in butter. 

Com Soup. — One large chicken cut into small pieces ; 
twelve ears of green corn, young and tender ; one gallon 
of water ; salt to taste. 

Boil the chicken to rags ; then cut the corn from the 
cob, and put into the pot, and stew an hour longer, still 
gently ; remove the chicken, season with salt and pepper; 
thicken with corn flour, and serve at once. 

Puree of Carrots with Cream. — To the liquor in which 
a knuckle of veal has been boiled add twelve large car- 
rots ; boil till the carrots will mash through a sieve ; put 
them through, and then let them boil in the broth until 
it is quite smooth ; add half a pint of cream and a little 
salt. 

White Soup of Jerusalem Artichokes. — The stock of 
veal, to which add three pounds of boiled artichokes, to 
be pulped through a sieve ; season with salt, a soupcon 
of cayenne pepper, and before it is poured into the tureen 
stir in some good, thick cream. It must on no account be 
allowed to boil after the cream is poured in, but care 
should be taken that it is not chilled by it. 

Almond Soup. — Blanch one and a half pounds of sweet 
almonds, and one dozen bitter almonds. Throw them in 
cold water, drain well, and pound them in a mortar, tak- 
ing care not to let them oil, by adding from time to time 
a little water ; put a quart and a half of water in a sauce- 
pan ; when it boils put in half the grated rind of a lemon 
and a few coriander seeds, and let them steep a few min- 
utes ; then stir in your pounded almonds ; strain through 
a fine sieve, put in a pinch of salt, and sweeten to taste. 
Warm this in a oain-marie ; sprinkle some fried crou- 
tons (they should be a light gold color), with powdered 



8 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

sugar, and, just before serving, throw them in your lait 
oVamandes. 

This is a Spanish soup de rigueur for Christmas. They 
add powdered cinnamon. 

Barsch de Gallide, Russian Beet Soup. — The day be- 
fore making the barsch prepare the beet juice in the fol- 
lowing manner : peel and cut in slices three large red 
beets ; put them into an earthen jar, and cover them with 
tepid water, to which you have added a little vinegar ; 
add also about six ounces of bread crumbs, and two glasses 
of milk. Cover the jar closely, and keep it in a warm 
place for twenty-four hours ; then strain and filter. The 
juice will be of a beautiful clear red color. 

To make the barsch : four quarts of sour beet juice 
prepared as directed above ; four pounds of beef haunch ; 
one pig's ear, salted, .scalded, and blanched; two shalots. 
Take one bunch of celery, chopped fine; one beet, 
chopped fine; one shalot ; some mushrooms; have the 
shalot, celery, beet, and mushrooms all fried to a light 
brown in butter. 

Put the beef into an earthen pot, and cover with the 
four quarts of sour beet juice. Put on the fire and skim 
carefully all the scum which rises to the top ; as soon 
as it boils set the pot back, where the soup will not boil, 
but simmer ; add the pig's ear, the two whole shalots, and 
cook slowly until the vegetables are tender ; then strain 
and pour three quarts of the bouillon thus made over the 
fried vegetables ; let it come to a boil, and add four smoked 
sausages ; twenty minutes afterward add several spoon- 
fuls of raw beet juice filtered (this juice should be of the 
brightest red color) ; add also the pig's ear, cut into dice, 
and a piece of the beef cut into dice; cut the sausages 
into thick slices, and arrange them in the soup tureen ; 
add a pinch of powdered parsley to the soup, pour it into 
the soup tureen, and serve with little crusts of bread cut 
into squares, hollowed, and fried in butter; the hollow in 



SOUPS. 9 

the centre of each square should be filled with cooked 
beef marrow. This is the king of soups. 

Bean Soup (dried). — Kidney, mock-turtle, or rice, or 
field bean. The mock-turtle is best. One gallon of cold 
water ; one quart of beans, soaked over- night in luke- 
warm water ; two pounds of salt pork, cut into small 
pieces; one teaspoonfnl of brown sugar; one red-pepper 
pod. 

Put the water, pork, and beans into the soup pot, and 
boil three hours, closely covered ; then shred into the pot 
a head of celery, and the red-pepper pod. Simmer now 
an hour longer, stir in the sugar, strain, and serve with 
slices of lemon. 

Or, you may substitute equal parts of beef and lean 
ham for the pork, and at the last moment drop small 
forcemeat balls and slices of hard-boiled eggs into the 
soup tureen. This more luxurious treatment, however, 
only befits the mock-turtle bean. 

Poor Man's Bean, or Lentil /Soup. — One half pound of 
brown lentils, or dried beans ; one carrot ; four cloves ; 
three onions ; a small bunch of sweet herbs ; one and a 
half ounces of dripping ; pepper and salt to taste. 

Wash the lentils well in several waters ; let them then 
soak in two quarts of water for twenty-four hours. When 
ready to make the soup, cut up the onion and carrot in 
thin slices, and fry to a light brown in the dripping. Put 
them into a pot with what remains of the dripping, and 
add the lentils and the water in which they were steeped, 
also the herbs and cloves ; boil all for three hours, add- 
ing more water to make up the waste from boiling; add 
pepper and salt to taste ; strain through a coarse sieve, and 
serve in a soup tureen with small dice of fried bread. 

Calves' - Head Soup. — Parboil in salt and water half 
a calf's head, nicely cleaned and prepared; cut it in 

1* 



10 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

little dice and set it apart. Put some butter in a sauce- 
pan, stir in enough browned flour to make a roux ; add 
an onion stuck with cloves, a bay leaf, thyme, parsley, 
sweet-basil, and sweet-marjoram, some stalks of celery; 
one pound of lean ham ; one and a half pounds of lean 
beef ; a pinch of cayenne pepper; add enough bouillon 
to make your soup rich and thick ; let it cook two hours ; 
strain it through a colander ; return it to the saucepan ; 
add your calf's head cut in dice ; some yolks of hard- 
boiled eggs cut in quarters; and, just before serving, add 
a glass of good Madeira and a dessertspoonful of lemon 
juice. 

Cherry Soup. — Take some ripe cherries and stem them, 
crush them in a mortar, cracking the kernels, and pour 
them in a porcelain -lined saucepan, with as much wine 
and water as you have cherries ; add some grated lemon 
rind ; let it boil till the fruit is cooked to a pulp ; strain 
it through a hair sieve ; sweeten to taste ; add some cin- 
namon ; warm it, and serve it poured over fried croutons 
of bread. 

Beer Soup. — Scorch half a pound of bread crumbs in 
some fresh butter ; add a quart of strong beer, as much 
red wine, the rind of a lemon, cinnamon, cloves, and 
sugar; let it boil up once, and pour your soup over crou- 
tons of fried bread in your tureen. 

Bouillon, Cold (for summer). — Make a strong beef 
bouillon according to the receipt given for clear soup & la 
Virginie • when sufficiently strong (and for this purpose 
it should be very strong), skim, strain, salt, and set it away 
to cool. When quite cold, strain again, and when per- 
fectly clear, heat again, and add enough caramel coloring 
to give it the right color ; then remove from the fire, 
strain, and set away to cool ; serve ice cold, with Pied- 
montese (Italian) bread, browned. 



SOUPS. 11 

Bouillon Blanc (White Soup). — Put into the soup pot 
two knuckles of veal, several veal bones, and a chicken ; 
pour over them four quarts of water, and salt slightly; 
when the soup comes to a boil skim carefully, and draw 
to the side of the stove where it will simmer but not boil ; 
keep the pot three fourths covered ; let it cook very slow- 
ly, arranging the position of the pot so that, if possible, it 
will only boil on one side ; half an hour later add a large 
carrot, a small piece of white turnip, a piece of celery, two 
shallots, and a tiny bunch of parsley ; cook slowly until all 
the meat has fallen from the bones, and is completely 
boiled to rags ; then strain the bouillon, first through a 
fine sieve, and then through a cloth, and set it away to 
cool. This stock may be used for all white soups. 

Bouillon Succulent. — Put into the soup pot four and a 
half pounds of lean beef cut into small squares ; pour over 
eight quarts of cold water ; put the pot on the fire, and 
cook slowly as above directed ; two hours afterwards add 
the bone of a piece of roast beef, or of roast leg of mut- 
ton ; continue to cook slowly until the meat is boiled ab- 
solutely to rags, or, better still, to shreds ; then add a tea- 
spoonful of burned sugar, and salt to taste ; strain and 
skim. This receipt makes a very good, clear bouillon. 

Julienne Soup. — Clean and peel two large carrots and a 
turnip ; add a head of celery, two new onions, a shallot, 
half a Savoy cabbage, a fine head of lettuce, a handful 
of sorrel, and some tender green pease ; cut the vegeta- 
bles into fine shreds about two inches long. 

Put the onions and shallot into a casserole with some 
butter ; cook for a few minutes over a moderate fire ; 
then add the carrots, turnip, and celery ; cook for a few 
moments ; add a little salt and a pinch of sugar, and pour 
over them the third of a quart of strained and clear bouil- 
lon ; cook the vegetables in this until the bouillon begins 
to jelly ; then add two quarts of strong, fresh bouillon, 



12 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

boiling hot; draw the soup pot to the side of the fire, 
and twenty-five minutes later add the lettuce, the blanched 
cabbage, and last of all the raw green pease ; cook the 
vegetables for three quarters of an hour ; then skim the 
soup ; add the chopped sorrel (well blanched) and a glass 
of puree of fresh green pease; mix all well together, and 
pour into the soup tureen. 

Julienne a la Russe. — Cut into fine shreds a carrot, a 
small turnip, a piece of celery, a large radish, two onions, 
and a shallot ; shred also some mushrooms (as many as the 
other vegetables). 

Fry the onions, shallot, and other vegetables very lightly 
in butter ; lay them on paper .until the grease is absorbed, 
and then put them in a casserole ; pour over them the 
third of a quart of good bouillon, and boil until the bouil- 
lon jellies ; then poor on three quarts of fresh bouillon, 
boiling hot ; draw the casserole to the side of the fire, 
and allow it to simmer for an hour and a half; then 
strain and skim the soup ; add a pinch of chopped fennel, 
and a few spoonfuls of sour cream (strained) ; pour into 
the soup tureen, and serve. In Russia a plate of tiny 
pates, croquettes, or rissoles, are handed with this soup. 

Julienne a la Polonaise. — Put into a pot four handfuls 
of dried pease ; two handfuls of dried mushrooms ; a car- 
rot ; part of a head of celery ; pour over these vegetables 
four quarts of water (cold) ; when the water really boils, 
draw the casserole to one side of the fire, and cook the 
vegetables slowly. 

Cut into shreds a shallot, an onion, a head of celery, a 
bunch of parsley, and a piece of raw beet ; fry all lightly 
in butter, and ten minutes after pour over them two quarts 
of the vegetable bouillon, which should previously have 
been carefully strained ; when this begins to boil, set it 
where it will only simmer, and three quarters of an 
hour afterwards add half a winter cabbage shredded and 



SOUPS. 13 

blanched and a few of the cooked mushrooms; in half 
an hour add some strained sour cream, and a pinch of 
powdered fennel, as for Russian julienne ; pour into the 
soup tureen, and serve with rissoles, croquettes, or pates. 

Bouillon Muldtre. — Take the remains of a roast tur- 
key, removing the stuffing ; put it in a saucepan with a 
little butter, sliced onion, parsley, a slice of lean ham, 
and pepper; let it cook, and add sufficient water for the 
soup ; simmer two hours, and strain ; mash to a smooth 
paste the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs ; stir this in the 
bouillon ; chop up the whites in little dice, add, and 
serve. 

Corn and Tomato Soup. — Boil three pounds of beef in 
four quarts of water, and add a dozen fine large tomatoes ; 
an hour before serving, strain, and pass the tomatoes 
through a colander ; return soup to the fire ; boil half a 
dozen ears of corn in a little salt and water; when done 
cut the corn from the cob ; pour your corn in the soup ; 
add a teaspoonf ul of butter and salt and pepper ; let it 
boil up, and serve. 

Casa linga. — Make a good rich broth. Chop cabbage, 
carrots, onions, turnips, in fact any vegetables you have ; 
mince a clove of garlic with a pinch of lavender, and 
mash some Irish potatoes ; put all this in your soup ; let 
it cook slowly ; add macaroni, pastini, or vermicelli ; stir 
in a lump of butter; season highly with black and red 
pepper ; salt to taste, and serve. This soup should be 
cooked five or six hours. 

Green-Pea Soup. — Make a rich broth, to which you 
add a slice of lean ham ; boil the green pease in salt and 
water ; pass through a colander ; add a spoonful of but- 
ter ; season to taste with salt and pepper, and pour over 
fried croutons of bread in the soup tureen. 



14 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Onion Soup d la Creole. — Slice several large onions, 
fry them in a saucepan with butter ; sprinkle with a little 
flour, and season with salt and pepper ; let the onions 
color a little, then stir in a quart of rich sweet milk, and 
let it boil up two or three times ; strain through a colan- 
der, and pour over fried croutons in a soup tureen. 

This soup is admirable when one is fatigued. 

Cheese Soup. — Make a good bouillon of onion or cab- 
bage soup ; grate some cheese in the bottom of your soup 
tureen ; put in a layer of thin slices of bread, then a 
layer of cheese, then a layer of cabbage, and again some 
cheese ; before pouring the bouillon in the tureen, pour 
in two glasses of cream ; do not salt the bouillon on ac- 
count of the cheese. Parmesan is the best cheese ; you can 
keep it a long time in salt, or wrapped in a greased cloth. 

Cherry Soup (German receipt). — Stone and stem three 
fourths of a quart of cherries (sour), and put two thirds 
of the quantity in an earthen pot, with a quart of warm 
water, and a little zest of lemon, also a stick of cinna- 
mon ; cook over a quick fire for ten minutes ; then add 
two teaspoonfuls of corn flour (of the best quality) 
mixed with cold water; ten minutes after put the cher- 
ries and liquid into a larger casserole ; add two or three 
quarts of good broth, the rest of the cherries, and a little 
sugar ; when the soup boils, set the pot where it will sim- 
mer. Meanwhile pound two handfuls of cherry kernels 
to a fine powder, and put into a casserole with two or 
three glasses of Bordeaux ; add some bouillon ; stir steadi- 
ly, and when quite hot remove from the fire, strain, and 
add to the soup ; serve with the soup a plate of browned 
biscuits cut into dice. 

Puree of Chicken. — Take a large boiled chicken, re- 
move all bones, skin, and fat, and put the chicken into 
a mortar together with the yolks of four hard-boiled 



SOUPS. 15 

eggs ; chop and pound until the chicken has been re- 
duced to the consistency of paste; then add some bread 
crumbs soaked in cream, and twelve blanched sweet al- 
monds; again chop and pound until the whole has been 
reduced to the consistency of a smooth, thick paste ; place 
this paste in an earthen bowl, which should previously 
have been well rubbed with garlic, and add little by little, 
stirring all the time, some good chicken broth ; take care 
to have the puree neither too thin nor too thick ; it 
should be as thick as custard ; when it is of the proper 
consistency strain it through a tin strainer ; pour it into 
an earthen stewpan ; salt to taste, and cook a bain-marie. 

Cucwnher Soup, Cold. — Put into a stewpan three pounds 
of fish, half a pound of absolutely lean ham, two large 
cucumbers peeled and sliced, a small bag of celery seed, a 
minced shallot, and two quarts of water. 

The fish, of course, should be skinned and cleaned, and 
pulled to pieces (with silver or wooden forks), the ham 
chopped fine ; boil until the fish and ham are in rags, 
then strain and set aside to cool ; when quite cold skim 
and strain again, and, if the soup is entirely clear and 
freed from fat, pour into the soup tureen, which should 
previously have been well rubbed with garlic ; have ready 
some sliced cucumber prepared as for the garspacho ; i. e., 
peeled, sliced very thinly, soaked in ice -water for two 
hours, and . dressed with vinegar, pepper, and salt ; add 
these to the soup, and also some dice of dried bread dipped 
in lemon juice. If properly made, this is a delicious soup. 
It is to be eaten frost cold. 

Chicken Soup, Cold. — Two young fowls ; one head of 
celery ; half a cup of rice ; one gallon of water ; quarter 
pound of cooked ham. 

Cut the fowls to pieces ; chop the celery fine, and put 
it with the fowls into the pot with enough water to cover 
them ; stew for an hour, and then add the remainder of 



16 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

the water, boiling hot ; when the soup has boiled in all for 
two hours and a half strain it, and set it aside to cool ; 
when quite cold and clear add some roasted parsley pow- 
dered tine, and the ham, which should previously have 
been dried in the oven and grated fine; salt and pepper 
to taste, and stir in last of all a pint of rich fresh cream, 
and some bread dice dipped in lemon juice ; eat cold. 

Clear Soup a la Virginie. — One knuckle of veal ; one 
chicken, stripped of skin and fat ; one head of celery ; 
half an onion ; three peppercorns, and two cloves ; one 
sprig of parsley ; one saltspoonf ul of salt ; cover with 
three quarts of clear cold water. 

Put all the ingredients into your soup pot, which must 
be placed on the back of the stove ; let it cook slowly 
and steadily for six hours, and skim often ; it must never 
be allowed to boil ; ..when the meat is white, and fallen to 
rags, take it out ; strain the soup, and clarify if necessary ; 
serve entirely clear, or with shreds of boiled carrot. 

Consomme. — Put a chicken and a knuckle of veal in a 
soup pot ; cover with cold bouillon ; put it over a slow 
fire ; let the bouillon heat slowly, and you obtain a clear, 
substantial consomme • skim and add vegetables, as for a 
pot aufeu. 

Tomato Soup. — Peel your tomatoes; boil them in a 
saucepan with an onion, a soup -bunch, celery, salt and 
pepper ; strain them ; add a little pinch of flour, and a 
lump of butter, and serve poured over fried croutons in 
your soup tureen. 

Irish Potato Soup. — Peel and boil your potatoes with 
an onion, a soup-bunch, salt and pepper; press your po- 
tatoes through a colander ; thin your puree with rich 
milk, and add a lump of butter; let it heat well, and 
serve. 



SOUPS. 17 

Consomme a la Regale. — Prepare a strong, clear con- 
somme after the receipt for bouillon succulent ; prepare 
also a hard custard, omitting the sugar, and adding a 
soupgon of gelatine to make it quite firm ; when this is 
cold and fi rra, cut it into squares about half an inch thick 
and large ; when the soup is in the soup tureen drop in 
the squares. 

Consomme with Poached Eggs. — Prepare a consomme 
as above, and, when ready to serve, drop in some well- 
poached eggs. 

Consomme aux Jacobins. — Put into the soup pot a va- 
riety of minced vegetables ; add some pieces of raw veal, 
poultry, or game (the greater the variety the better the 
soup), also two or three roast pheasants; pour over them 
a quart of bouillon, and boil down over a clear fire ; when 
the bouillon has boiled away add five quarts of bouillon, 
and a glass of wine; skim carefully, and add half a head 
of celery and some sweet herbs ; cook slowly on the back 
of the stove for an hour ; then let it cool, and when al- 
most tepid strain, and clarify it carefully with some 
raw hare, a little lean raw veal, two whole eggs, and a 
little Madeira, Meanwhile have ready some forcemeat 
balls made in the following manner : chop fine about 
six ounces of lean ham (cooked), and mix with it two 
spoonfuls of bechamel; two of tomato sauce, and a pinch 
of cayenne; pass all through a sieve, and then add two 
teaspoonfuls of Madeira; six ditto of good consomme; 
the yolks of six eggs, and two whole eggs ; fill with this 
some small, round, buttered moulds, and cook them a bain- 
marie; when cooked divide each ball neatly into four 
quarters ; fill the soup tureen with the consomme and drop 
in the Jacobins ; add, also, a cupful of freshly cooked green 
pease. 

Plain Consomme. — Proceed as for good stock, substi- 



18 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

tuting for the ham a good-sized chicken, and omitting the 
onions; skim, strain, and color with caramel coloring. 

Meat Soups. 

Consomme d V Imperatrice. — Two quarts of water ; three 
pounds of lean beef ; half a pound of roasted chicken ; 
two carrots; two leeks; two onions; two cloves; soup- 
bunch ; salt to taste ; cook eight hours, skim, and serve. 

Careme recommends always that a chicken should be 
roasted till half done on the spit, before boiling for soup. 
It gives a better taste and color. 

Soup Made in an Hour. — Cut one and a half pounds of 
beef in small pieces; put it in a saucepan with carrots, 
sliced onions, a little lard, and half a glass of water; let it 
simmer and steam fifteen minutes, until it begins to stick 
to the bottom of the, saucepan ; then pour in a pint of boil- 
ing water ; sprinkle a little salt ; let it boil three quar- 
ters of an hour ; strain through a colander, and serve. 

Corn Soup. — One can of corn; half a quart of rich 
milk ; half a quart of water ; three eggs, well beaten ; a 
little rolled cracker ; butter, pepper, and salt to taste. 

Put the milk and water into a porcelain-lined stewpan ; 
when warm add the corn ; boil ten minutes ; then stir in 
the beaten eggs ; add butter, pepper, and salt to taste, and 
thicken with a little rolled cracker. 

Dried-Pea Soup. — One gallon of water ; one quart of 
split pease, soaked over-night; one pound of salt pork, 
cut into dice; half a pound of lean beef; one head of 
celery. 

Boil all together slowly until the liquid does not ex- 
ceed two quarts ; pour into a colander, and press through 
it with a silver spoon ; return to the pot, and add a table- 
spoonful of sugar ; salt and pepper to taste ; add a little 
powdered parsley ; serve with dice of fried bread. 



SOUPS. 19 

Parsley Cream Soup, Cold. — Take a quart of the very 
best fresh milk, and put it on the fire to warm, not boil, 
with a slice of onion, a small bit of cayenne pod, a bunch 
of parsley, a piece of lemon peel, and salt to taste ; when 
scalding hot, add a heaping tablespoonful of rice flour 
wet with cold milk ; stir until smoothly dissolved ; then 
allow it to boil up once ; take it from the fire, and strain 
into the soup tureen, and set it aside to cool ; when per- 
fectly cold add a large handful of roast parsley, crum- 
bled fine ; sift it into the soup, a little at a time, stir- 
ring steadily one way -until the soup is delicately colored ; 
serve frost cold. 

Celery Cream Soup, Cold. — Take a quart of the best 
fresh milk, and put it on a fire to boil, with a head of 
good celery chopped fine, two or three peppercorns, and 
salt to taste ; when heated almost to boiling, add the 
beaten yolks of five eggs, and a tablespoonful of rice 
flour wet with cold water ; stir carefully, and, as soon as 
the soup has assumed the consistency of cream, take it 
from the fire ; strain it into the soup tureen, and set it 
away to cool ; eat frost cold. Both the above soups 
should be cooked & bain-marie. 

Sorrel Soup, Cold. — Take a quantity of fresh sorrel, 
some chervil, beet tops, and several heads of crisp lettuce, 
some button onions chopped fine, and a bunch of parsley ; 
put all into a stewpan with enough water to keep them 
from burning, and, when nearly cooked, add some good 
bouillon, which has been skimmed and strained until it is 
thoroughly freed from fat ; stir this well into the vegeta- 
ble soup ; then remove the stewpan from the fire, and 
strain the soup into a bowl; when quite cold it should 
again be strained, salted and peppered to taste ; some very 
thin slices of lemon should be put into the tureen to be 
served with the soup. 



20 THE UNKIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Cordiale alia fflarentina, Cold. — Prepare a bouillon 
exactly as for a hot " Cordiale," and when it is cold, 
strained, and perfectly clear, add (in the proportion of 
an egg for each guest) some eggs well beaten, and, lastly, 
some lemon juice, and salt to taste ; serve at once. 

Cockie-leekie Soup. — Put into an earthen pot a knuckle 
of veal, the same of ham, and a large chicken cut up with 
its liver and lights ; add five quarts of water, and the mo- 
ment the soup begins to boil set it where it can only sim- 
mer ; add an onion, a head of celery, a carrot, a turnip, 
and two cloves ; when the meat is cooked pour the bouil- 
lon into another casserole, skim, and strain it, and add 
eight small shallots peeled and cut in half; cook slowly. 
Meanwhile chop into dice the chicken and ham ; keep hot 
in a little bouillon, and when the soup is ready to serve, 
put the meat into the soup tureen ; pour over it the bouil- 
lon and shallots, and serve hot. 

Scotch Broth. — Cut a shoulder of mutton into two 
parts, wash carefully in tepid water, and put into an 
earthen pot with a pinch of salt, and five quarts of water ; 
when it boils, skim, and set on the stove where it can only 
simmer ; add five large carrots, a turnip, a head of celery, 
and a bunch of parsley and thyme, two cloves, and a 
handful of pearl barley ; cook slowly for two hours and 
a half ; then take out the meat, bone it, and cut it into 
dice ; add to the bouillon two small shallots, chopped fine, 
and fried lightly in butter ; take out the other vegetables, 
chop fine and return to the soup, together with the meat ; 
serve all together in the soup tureen. 

Hodge Podge. — Put into an earthen pot two and a quarter 
pounds of beef, half a shoulder of mutton, and a pinch of 
coarse salt ; when it begins to boil, skim, and set on the back 
of the stove where it can only simmer ; an hour and a half 
later add all the young vegetables which are in season, 



SOUPS. 21 

cabbages, lettuce, celery, onions, carrots, beets, tomatoes, 
turnips, pease, and asparagus ; cut all into dice, and of the 
asparagus use only the points. These vegetables, of course, 
must be added in order, those which take longest to cook 
being the first put in ; at the last moment take out the 
meat, thicken the bouillon with a tablespoonf ul of arrow- 
root, and serve with the vegetables. 

Deer's-Head Soup d la Malmesbury. — Take a young 
deer's head, skin it, bone it, and put it into a pot with 
enough cold water to cover it, and cook for a quarter of 
an hour ; then take it out, dry and scrape the meat, and 
cut into four parts ; place these in a casserole, add a ham 
bone (raw), some raw veal, some vegetables, a bunch of 
sweet herbs, and four quarts of good bouillon, and a bottle 
of white wine ; skim carefully until the soup boils, then 
set it on one side of the stove where it will cook very 
slowly ; when the meat is quite tender take it out, cut it 
into square dice, and keep it hot, with a little Madeira 
wine ; strain the broth. Meanwhile, while the soup is 
cooking, cook also in butter a chopped onion, a chopped 
carrot, a piece of celery, and a little ham chopped fine ; 
dust all with three teaspoonf uls of arrow-root, and add, lit- 
tle by little, two quarts of the soup ; the moment it comes 
to the boil set it on one side of the stove, and add a bunch 
of marigold, thyme, and laurel ; twenty-five minutes after- 
wards skim and strain the soup, add the meat and Madeira 
wine and six button mushrooms chopped fine ; boil again 
for twelve minutes, skimming carefully, and at the last 
minute add cayenne pepper and salt to taste. 

Soupe d la Dolgovouki. — Prepare two or three quarts of 
strong chicken broth, strain, and keep it where it will not 
boil ; chop fine one pound of boiled ham, and mix with 
some onions boiled and chopped fine, and bind all with 
bechamel sauce; some minutes afterwards add the yolks 
of four or five eggs, and put all into a casserole ; when 



22 THE UNKIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

ready to serve strain the broth, and mix in the thicken- 
ing, add cayenne pepper and salt to taste, and the breasts 
of four boiled chickens chopped fine. 

Consomme aux Ravioles de Gibier. — Prepare two or three 
quarts of consomme of game ; skin and bone a raw par- 
tridge ; chop it fine and work to a smooth paste with half 
the quantity of calves' brains, cooked, and an equal quan- 
tity of beef marrow and parmesan ; when smoothly mixed 
bind with the yolks of two eggs, and prepare ; with this 
paste make five or six dozen tiny ravioles / five minutes be- 
fore serving drop the ravioles into boiling water (salted), to 
which you have added two or three spoonfuls of bouillon ; 
cook three minutes, drain the ravioles, range them in the 
soup tureen, pour over the consomme of game, and serve. 

Fish Soup. — Choose a large, fine fish, and when thor- 
oughly cleaned put it on the fire with a sufficient quantity 
of water, measuring the water as follows : for each pound" 
of fish one quart of water ; let it boil slowly until the fish 
is boiled to rags and is tasteless ; then take out fish and 
bones and throw into the broth some butter in which on- 
ions and sweet herbs have previously been cooked ; add a 
teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, salt and pepper to 
taste, and serve with small squares of fried bread and thin 
slices of lemon. 

Fish Stock. — Put into a saucepan some good butter, 
sliced onions, a little dried okra, and some sliced tomatoes ; 
add as many different kinds of small fish as you can get — 
oysters, clams, smelts, prawns, crabs, shrimps, and all kinds 
of pan fish ; cook all together, until the onions are well 
browned, then add a bunch of sweet herbs, seasoning to 
taste, and some fish bouillon (as above); after this has 
cooked for another half hour, pound with a wooden pestle, 
strain, and cook again until it jellies. 



SOUPS. 23 

Lobster Soup, Bisque. — Pick out all the meat from a 
boiled lobster, pound it in a mortar with an equal quantity 
of butter till a fine orange-colored pulp is obtained ; to this 
add pepper, salt, and a soupgon of grated nutmeg ; take as 
much rolled bread crumb as there is lobster pulp, soak 
them in stock, melt a piece of butter in a saucepan, amal- 
gamate with it a heaped tablespoonf ul of sifted flour, mix 
the lobster pulp with the bread crumbs, and put both in 
the saucepan on the fire, stirring the contents until they 
thicken and boil ; draw it then on one side, and carefully 
skim off superfluous fat ; then strain the soup through a 
hair sieve, make it boiling hot, and serve with small dice 
of bread fried in butter. 

Bisque of Shrimps, Prawns, or Crabs, is made in pre- 
cisely the same way, but is improved by the addition of a 
liqueur-glass of sherry or Moiss dlka just before serving. 

.Bisque d la Creole (Madame Eugene). — Take a peck of 
fat crawfish, wash them through several waters to clean 
them, and boil them in salt and water which you use later 
for your bouillon ; take off the heads ; peel your crawfish ; 
reserve twenty- four heads to stuff for your bisque ; take 
all the rest of the heads and all the peeling, carefully re- 
moving the sand-bng, and pound them in a mortar; pour 
them in the bouillon, in which they were boiled, with a 
soup-bunch, a head of celery, salt, and pepper; let it sim- 
mer slowly two hours ; in the meantime pound the tails 
of the crawfish you have peeled in a mortar, mix them 
with butter, chopped onions, chopped ham, salt, and pep- 
per; bind it with the beaten yolk of an egg and fry it; 
stuff the heads with this ; strain the bouillon, make a soup, 
in which you fry a chopped onion, till it colors ; strain 
this in your bouillon, and pour it boiling hot into your 
tureen over the stuffed heads and fried croutons of bread ; 
a moment before serving stir in a tablespoonful of sweet 
red-pepper powder that is used for coloring. 



24 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 



Bouillabaisse, New Orleans. — Take several kinds of fish ; 
skin, bone, and cut in pieces the size of an egg ; mince an 
onion, a tiny piece of garlic, one large tomato, a few sprigs 
of parsley ; put the whole in a saucepan with half a tum- 
bler of the finest olive-oil, a pinch of pepper, and one of 
mixed spice ; when the onions are slightly colored, add the 
fish, salt to taste, and add an infinitesimally small piece of 
powdered saffron, a glass of white wine, and sufficient boil- 
ing water to come up to, but not cover the fish ; or, add 
water in which clams have previously been boiled; this 
gives the bouillabaisse an exquisite flavor; let the bouilla- 
baisse now boil fast for twenty minutes, or until the liquor 
is reduced by one fourth ; then serve the fish in a very hot 
dish, and the liquor in another, over small thick squares 
of light white bread toasted on both sides. 

Bouillabaisse a la Marseillais. — Take six pounds of dif- 
ferent kinds of fish ; clean, remove the skin and bones, and 
cut the fish in slices two inches long ; put four ounces of 
olive-oil in a saucepan, with two sliced onions, four toma- 
toes, a slice of lean ham chopped up ; fry them, and add 
two glasses of bouillon, and season with salt and pepper; 
let it cook an hour, and strain through a colander ; put 
this sauce in another saucepan, and lay in it your slices of 
fish nicely prepared ; let it cook gently, and add a glass of 
good white wine; dress your fish on a dish and pour this 
sauce, in which it has cooked, over it ; in another sauce- 
pan you must put the heads, the bones, and the skins of 
the fish, a slice of ham, two sliced onions, tomatoes, four 
cloves, two bay leaves, a bunch of parsley, salt and pepper, 
and two quarts of water ; boil this an hour and a half, skim, 
and, just before straining, put in a pinch of saffron ; strain 
and add half a bottle of the best white wine ; have slices 
of bread nicely toasted, and serve with each spoonful of 
soup a slice of fish and a slice of toasted bread. The fish, 
on a separate dish, should be served at the same time 
with the soup. 



SOUPS. 25 

Courtbouillon a la Creole. — Slice and fry some onions in 
a saucepan, with sliced tomatoes, salt, and pepper ; clean 
and scale your fish ; cut it in slices ; put it in the saucepan 
with the onions and tomatoes and some water, add a little 
chopped parsley ; cook till the fish is done ; then add a 
glass of claret, or white wine ; let it boil up ; remove the 
fish, which you dress in a dish, on slices of toasted bread ; 
strain the sauce, and serve poured over the fish. 

Couribouillon for Sea Fish. — Boil in equal parts of 
milk and water; season well with salt and pepper; the 
fish becomes white and firm. Serve with Harvey or 
Worcestershire sauce. 

Clam Soup. — Fifty clams ; one quart of milk ; one pint 
of water ; two tablespoonfuls of butter. Put the clams into 
a large pan or tray, and pour cold water over them ; as fast 
as they unclose, take them out, saving all the liquor ; put 
all the liquor of the fifty clams on the fire with a dozen 
whole peppers, a few bits of cayenne pods, half a dozen 
blades of mace, and salt to taste ; let it boil for ten min- 
utes, keeping it closely covered ; then put in the clams, 
and let it boil for another half-hour, still covered ; at this 
point add the milk, which should previously have been 
heated to scalding in another vessel ; boil up again, taking 
care that the soup does not burn, and put in the butter; 
then serve without delay. If you desire a thicker soup, 
stir into the quart of hot milk a heaping teaspoonful of 
rice flour, wet up with cold milk. 

Catfish Soup. — Six catfish, each weighing one half 
pound ; half pound of salt pork, one pint of milk ; two 
eggs ; one head of celery ; one onion. Skin and clean the 
catfish and cut off the heads; then bone and cut up the 
fish, and chop the pork into small pieces ; put into the pot 
with two quarts of water, chopped sweet herbs, the onion, 
and the celerv^ boil to rags, then strain, and return to the 

2 



26 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

saucepan ; add the milk, then the eggs, beaten to a froth, 
and a lump of butter the size of a walnut ; boil up once, 
and serve with dice of toasted bread on top. 

Eel Soup is made as above, but must cook longer. 

Green Turtle Soup. — Turtle ; a glass of good Madeira ; 
two onions ; a bunch of sweet herbs ; juice of one lemon ; 
live quarts of water. Chop up all the turtle meat with 
the entrails and bones; the fat must be set aside; put the 
meat, entrails, bones, etc., into a pot ; a,dd the herbs, on- 
ions, pepper, and salt, and four quarts of water ; stew stead- 
ily for five hours, never ceasing the boiling during all the 
time ; then strain, thicken with browned flour, and put in 
the green fat, cut in pieces an inch long. The green fat 
should previously have been simmered for one hour in two 
quarts of water. Thicken with browned flour, return to 
the soup pot, and simmer gently an hour longer. If there 
are eggs in the turtle, boil them in a separate vessel for 
four hours, and throw into the soup before taking it up ; 
if not, put in the forcemeat balls, then the juice of the 
lemon, and the wine; beat up once, and pour out. Some 
cooks add the forcemeat before straining, boiling all to- 
gether five hours ; then strain, thicken, and put in the 
green fat, cut into strips an inch long. This is the cus- 
tom followed at the lord-mayor's dinner in London. 

For the mock eggs, take the yolks of three hard-boiled 
eggs, and one raw egg well beaten ; rub the boiled eggs 
into a paste with a teaspoonf ul of butter, bind with a raw 
egg, roll into pellets shaped like turtles' eggs, and poach in 
beef broth (boiling) for two minutes before dropping into 
the soup. 

Forcemeat Balls for the above. — Six tablespoonfuls of 
turtle meat, chopped very fine ; two hard-boiled eggs, yolks 
only ; one tablespoonf ul of butter ; a little oyster liquor ; 
season with cayenne, mace, and half a teaspoonf ul of white 



SOUPS. 27 

sugar ; a pinch of salt. Rub the meat and hard-boiled egg 
to a smooth paste with the butter and oyster liquor ; sea- 
son, bind with beaten egg, form into balls, roll in beaten 
egg, then in powdered cracker, fry in butter, and throw 
into the soup at the last moment. 

Turtle Soup from Dried Turtle. — Soak in cold water 
for twenty-four hours, then place in a stewpan and cover 
with fresh water ; boil quietly for eight hours, then cut 
into pieces an inch square, and add this turtle meat and 
liquid to a strong consomme of clear stock, made thus: 
For one pound of dried turtle : five pounds of gravy beef, 
two pounds of leg veal, one calf's foot, and a half pound of 
lean ham. Cover with water and bring to a boil, remov- 
ing the scum ; add' three carrots, two onions, one head of 
celery, and a packet of turtle herbs and spices ; let all sim- 
mer gently for eight hours ; strain through a fine cloth 
into a saucepan, and add the turtle meat and liquor; let 
all boil together until the turtle meat is quite tender ; add 
a half-pint of good sherry, and the soup is ready for use. 
This will make four quarts of good soup. 

Terra-pin Soup. — Clean and cut up a large terrapin with 
the entrails and bones; remove the gall carefully; put 
your terrapin in a soup pot with four quarts of water, a 
soup bunch, a head of celery, onions, thyme, parsley, salt, 
and pepper; let it simmer four hours; do not let it cease 
one moment to cook ; strain your soup, thicken it with 
browned flour, return it to the soup pot ; tie up in a muslin 
bag half a tablespoonful of cloves, allspice, and a cracked 
nutmeg ; let it simmer an hour in the soup, then remove. 
If the turtle has eggs, boil them and throw in the yolks ; 
if there are no eggs, use forcemeat balls ; add a glass of 
Madeira and thin slices of lemon before serving. The 
forcemeat bails are made by rubbing two hard-boiled 
yolks to a paste, with butter, and half a dozen spoonfuls 
of the turtle meat, chopped very fine, and seasoned with 



28 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

salt and pepper ; bind with beaten eggs ; make into balls ; 
dip, first, into beaten egg, then into powdered cracker, and 
fry in butter. 

Oyster Soup. — Two quarts of oysters with their liquor ; 
one quart of milk; two tablespoon fuls of butter; one tea- 
spoonful of water. 

Pat the strained oyster liquor and the water into a sauce- 
pan, which is set in a larger one nearly full of boiling wa- 
ter ; heat slowly, and, when the liquor begins to boil, sea- 
son with pepper and salt, and stir in the milk ; then stir 
constantly until the soup nears the boiling-point again ; 
then throw in the oysters, and let them stew until they 
plump and ruffle at the edge ; then put in the butter and 
stir well until it is melted ; serve immediately. 

Ouka (Russian national soup). — Of all the admirable 
soups prepared in Russia, the ouka is the best. It is pre- 
pared with small sterlets, cooked the instant they are killed. 
As the sterlet, however, exists only in Russia, it is only 
possible to reproduce an imitation of the ouka in other 
countries. The best imitation is that made with fresh 
brook trout; but they must be brought into the kitchen 
alive, and cooked the moment they are killed. Prepare 
first two full quarts of fish stock (using -for the ouka fresh- 
water fish. Meanwhile, cut into fine shreds, as for Juli- 
enne, some celer}' and parsley ; blanch, drain, and fry 
lightly in butter; then cook them in a little bouillon. 
Prepare, also, two dozen tiny forcemeat balls of whit- 
ings and lobster-butter mixed ; clarify the bouillon, add a 
glass of good white wine, and two teaspoonf uls of Madeira. 
When the work of preparation has advanced to this point, 
kill three fat, lively, middling-sized brook trout. They 
must be of a good red color. Bone, remove the heads and 
tails, cut into small pieces, clean, skin, and sponge them. 
When the fish consomme is clarified and strained, put a 
small portion of it into a casserole, add two glasses of 



SOUPS. 29 

sweet champagne; when, it comes. to a boil drop in the 
pieces of trout; when they begin to boil 'take the cas- 
serole from the fire and cover it ; then strain and skim the 
liquor in which they have been cooked, trim the pieces of 
trout neatly, and arrange them in a very hot dish, pouring 
over them the sauce in which they were cooked ; drop into 
the boiling bouillon the vegetables, add the little force- 
meat balls (which should previously have been cooked a 
bain-marie), and pour at once into the soup tureen ; send 
the trout separately. It should be put into the soup by 
the guests themselves. In Russia the servant who hands 
the soup is followed instantly by another handing the trout. 
Soup so made and served is ouJca, and is surpassed by no 
other soup man has invented. 

Garspacho (Spanish Soup Salad). — Two and a half 
quarts fresh tomatoes peeled and sliced thinly ; one large 
cucumber peeled and sliced thinly ; a half clove of garlic ; 
one gallon of water. 

Stew slowly for an hour; then add salt and pepper, 
and a teaspoonful of white sugar; stir until the sugar 
is thoroughly dissolved ; then take the stewpan from 
the lire, strain the soup into a tureen, and set it aside to 
cool. Meanwhile, have ready some fresh cucumbers, peel, 
and slice them as thinly as possible, and lay them in ice- 
water for an hour and a half. When the soup is quite 
cold — frost cold — dress the cucumbers with pepper, salt, 
and vinegar, and add them to the soup, stirring carefully 
with a wooden spoon. Lastly, have ready some very 
light white bread, cut into dice and dried (not toast- 
ed) in the oven. When the garspacho is ready to be 
served, pour a very little tarragon vinegar over the bread, 
and toss the bread quickly into the garspacho. (Excel- 
lent.) 

German Flour Soup. — Brown some flour ; thin it while 
warm with sufficient milk for your soup; add powdered 



30 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

cinnamon and powdered sugar ; cook it and always keep 
stirring; at the moment of serving thicken it with some 
beaten yolks of eggs, and pour it in your tureen over slices 
of toasted bread, fried croutons, or sailors', biscuits bro- 
ken up. 

Sago Soup with Wine. — Wash your sago well ; cook it 
an hour in water, with the rind of a lemon and some cin- 
namon. When the water is reduced to half its quantity, 
pour in as much red wine ; put in some slices of lemon 
and sugar ; let it boil. Before serving, sprinkle your soup 
with sugar and cinnamon powdered. 

Gumbo File with Chicken. — Cut up and fry a large fine 
chicken in a saucepan with a slice of lean ham, two sliced 
onions, two sliced tomatoes, a little parsley, and some cel- 
ery, salt, and pepper; fry all well together, and add two 
quarts and a half of water ; simmer two hours and strain ; 
put your chicken back in the soup, and just as you remove 
it from the fire, stir in a coffeespoonful of file powder; 
serve with boiled rice and little green bird's-eye peppers. 

Shrimp Ochra Gumbo. — Slice your ochra and fry it in 
butter or lard, with onions, salt, and pepper; boil your 
shrimps, remove the heads, and peel the tails, and fry them 
in a saucepan with chopped ham, onions, and cayenne pep- 
per ; pour your fried ochra and shrimps into a soup pot ; 
slice in a quart of fine ripe tomatoes (or in winter take 
a can of tomatoes) ; cook slowly two hours, and serve 
with boiled rice. Always serve fresh green peppers with 
gumbo. 

Grab Ochra Gumbo is made in the same manner, substi- 
tuting crabs for shrimps. 

Gumbo File with Oysters. — Boil a large, fine, fat chicken 
in two quarts of water, add a slice of ham, and season to 



SOUPS. 31 

taste. Take the liquor of fifty oysters and pour it in the 
bouillon. When the chicken is cooked, take it out of the 
soup .; strain your soup through a colander, and just before 
serving throw in the oysters, and let them cook five min- 
utes, till they are plump ; remove your soup pot from the 
fire, and stir in an after-dinner-coif eespoonful of the file 
powder and serve immediately; serve with boiled rice. 
This is the Southern Soup de Rigueur for suppers. 

Giblet Soup. — Feet, neck, pinions, and giblets of three 
chickens, or of two ducks and two geese ; one and a half 
pounds of veal ; half a pound of ham ; three quarts of 
water. 

Crack the bones into small pieces, chop the giblets, and 
cut the meat into strips; put all together over the fire, 
with a bunch of sweet herbs and a pinch of allspice ; stew 
slowly for two hours ; pick out the giblets with a skim- 
mer and set them aside, where they will keep warm ; take 
up a cupful of the hot soup and stir into it a large table- 
spoonful of browned flour which has been rubbed to a 
paste in cold water, then two tablespoonfuls of butter; re- 
turn to the pot and boil fifteen minutes ; season at the last 
with a teaspoonf ul of burned sugar, a glass of brown sher- 
ry, and a tablespoonful of tomato catsup ; finally, add the 
giblets and serve. 

Good Housekeepers' Soup. — Take the bones and scraps 
of any cold meat, game, or poultry ; put them in a soup 
pot with vegetables, salt, pepper, and bouillon ; three 
hours before serving (take out half the bouillon, which 
you set up for the next day) add a cabbage, which makes 
a cabbage soup. The next day cut up, as for a Jidienne, 
two heads of celery, an onion, two leaves of cabbage, two 
or three leeks, (this is enough for six persons); fry with 
either butter or lard in a saucepan. When the vegetables 
are half cooked, pour in the bouillon set aside the preced- 
ing day ; add two or three fresh potatoes, peeled and quar- 



32 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

tered ; serve hot. This simple and good soup is prefera- 
ble, i 
rots. 



ble, sometimes, to Julienne for those who do not like car 



Hare, Rabbit, or Gray-Squirrel Soup. — Three pounds 
of hare, rabbit, or squirrel ; one pound of lean ham ; two 
onions, chopped fine; one head of celery, chopped fine; 
one small bunch of thyme ; one small bunch of parsley ; 
ten peppercorns ; two blades of mace ; one small red-pep- 
per pod ; one teaspoonf ul of burned sugar ; one claret-glass 
of red wine. 

Cut up the meat and put it with the chopped vegetables 
into the pot, with just enough water to cover them ; cover 
closely and stew for an hour; then add two quarts of boil- 
ing w T ater, the herbs, pepper pod, and peppercorns; boil 
two hours longer, salt, stir in a tablespoonful of butter, 
and thicken with a tablespoonful of browned flour, made 
into a smooth paste with cold water; add, also, the burned 
sugar and wine, stir carefully ; take out the herbs and veg- 
etables with a perforated strainer ; allow the soup to boil 
up once, and serve with the meat in. (Very good.) 

Mulligatawny Soup^o. 1. — One knuckle of veal, weigh- 
ing five pounds, put on with enough water to cover it. 
When it is about half done take it off, cut the meat in 
slices, put it in a cool place until next day ; then cut the 
fat off and fry it in a little butter, and put it in the soup 
with four dessertspoonfuls of curry-powder, a little salt, 
and four onions sliced and fried in butter ; let all simmer 
together for two hours ; if too thin, thicken with browned 
flour and butter ; serve with rice in another dish. 

Mulligatawny Soup, No. 2. — Four pounds of lean beef ; 
one and a half pounds of scrag of mutton ; two pounds of 
lean ham : one knuckle of veal ; one gallon of water. 

Boil all together slowly until the water is reduced to 
two quarts ; add two onions, four turnips, and plenty of 



SOUPS. 33 

carrots ; strain it off, let it cool, take off the fat, and warm 
it up with two or three sticks of celery, and rub it through 
a sieve ; put it back in the saucepan with walnut or mush- 
room catsup, one .tablespoonful of curry-powder, a little 
cayenne pepper, and the juice of a lemon ; serve with rice 
in another dish. 

Puree of Onions. — Take some young button onions, 
peel them, and cut them fine; then fry them in good but- 
ter until they are of a delicate brown color; then take 
them from the fire and put them in a casserole with some 
good broth, some pieces of the finest white bread fried in 
butter, and the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs ; let all 
cook together until well assimilated ; then take it from the 
fire and strain, pressing it smoothly through the strainer 
with a wooden pestle; replace it on the fire, add some 
broth, and cook until it is of the consistency of cream ; 
season to taste and serve. 

Puree of Mushrooms. — Take some fresh mushrooms, 
wash, peel, and clean them thoroughly ; slice them fine, 
dry them, and put them in a casserole with a piece of but- 
ter and the juice of a large lemon. When the butter is 
melted add some strong broth or stock, a glass of white 
wine (sherry or Madeira is best), and some bouillon ; cook 
all together slowly, stirring continually with a wooden or 
silver spoon until thoroughly assimilated ; then season, 
strain, and serve. It should be like thick cream. 

Mutton Broth. — Four pounds of lean mutton or lamb, 
cut into small pieces; one gallon of water; half a teacup- 
f ul of rice ; half a chicken, if the broth is intended to be 
very good. 

Boil the unsalted meat for two hours slowly in a cov- 
ered vessel ; soak the rice in enough warm water to cover 
it ; and, at the end of this time, add it, water and all, to 
the boiling soup; cook an hour longer, stirring watch- 

2* 



34 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

fully, from time to time, lest the rice should settle and ad- 
here to the bottom of the pot ; beat an egg into a froth 
and stir into a cup of cold milk, into which has been rubbed 
smoothly a tablespoonf ul of rice or wheat flour ; mix with 
this, a little at a time, some of the scalding liquor until the 
egg is so cooked that there is no danger of its curdling in 
the soup; pour into the pot; when you have taken out 
the meat, season with thyme, pepper, and salt ; boil up 
once and serve. 

Olla Podrida. — One and a half pounds of mutton ; one 
and a half pounds of veal ; a slice of lean raw ham ; one 
and a half pounds of black-eyed pease ; any cold game or 
chicken. 

Put your meat, ham, and pease in a soup pot with suffi- 
cient water; simmer and skim; let it cook an hour; take 
out your meat ; put into your bouillon whatever vegetables 
you wish (prepared beforehand) ; cook slowly; and before 
serving put in a piece of blood pudding ; season with salt 
and pepper ; serve your meats on one dish, your vegeta- 
bles on another, with the following sauces : For summer 
vegetables — green pease, snap-beans, potatoes, etc. — serve 
a tomato sauce ; for winter vegetables (cabbage excepted), 
a parsley sauce. 

Oxtail Soup. — One oxtail; two pounds of lean beef; 
four carrots ; three onions ; thyme. 

Cut the tail into several pieces and fry brown in butter; 
slice the onions and two carrots and fry also ; when done 
put them into a nraslin bag with the thyme, and place 
in the soup pot with the beef and oxtail ; grate the two 
whole carrots and cook all together, pouring over four 
quarts of cold water, and adding a pinch of burned sugar, 
and pepper and salt to taste ; cook from four to six hours, in 
proportion to the size of the tail ; strain fifteen minutes 
before serving it, and thicken with two tablespoonfuls of 
browned flour; boil ten minutes longer; add half a glass 
of burned sherry, and serve. 



SOUPS. 35 

Brown Gravy Soup. — Three pounds of beef; one pound 
of fillet of beef; one carrot ; one turnip ; one head of cel- 
ery ; six button onions ; three and a half quarts of water. 

Slice the onions, and fry to a light brown in butter; 
take them out and fry the meat in the same way, with 
the exception of the fillet. Chop the vegetables, and put 
them with the onions and fried beef into a covered pot; 
pour on the water and let all stew together for three hours ; 
then add a pinch of sugar, salt and pepper to taste, and 
boil one hour longer, skimming carefully. In the mean- 
time, free the piece of fillet entirely from strings, skin, and 
fat ; chop it fine, and then pound it to a paste in a mor- 
tar, adding the tiniest possible soupgon of burned sugar, 
and salt to taste, and working it steadily until it is reduced 
to a cream ; mix with this, drop by drop, a teacupful of 
the soup (strained); then strain the soup, put it back on 
the fire, and when it is at boiling-point add the fillet, 
stirring steadily all the time ; allow the soup so thicken- 
ed to boil up once ; then put into the soup tureen, and 
serve. 

Vermicelli Soup is made as above, omitting the fillet, 
and adding a handful of vermicelli, boiled separately 
and drained dry. The vermicelli so prepared should be 
put into the soup tureen, and the clear soup poured 
over it. 

Pot au Feu. — Beef makes the most wholesome and best 
soup. Put your meat in cold water with a little salt; the 
fire should be so slow that the soup cannot boil before the 
skim rises and is carefully removed ; add carrots, turnips, 
leeks, celery, parsley roots, a bay leaf, one or two cloves, a 
clove of garlic, and a fried onion to give color ; let it boil 
slowly until the meat is done. To make good soup the 
most important thing is to keep it simmering without 
ceasing one moment. It requires from five to six hours 
to make a good pot au feu. The proper proportions are 



36 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

three pounds of meat for four quarts of water. When 
the soup is done, pour it boiling hot through the colander, 
over slices of bread in the tureen. Never boil bread in 
soup, as that spoils the flavor. The remains of game or 
poultry added to the beef is a good addition. A piece of 
the breast of mutton improves the taste, and can be served 
the following day broiled. 

Cucido, Pot au Feu d la Portugaise. — Put into an earth- 
en pot two pounds of beef, a piece of raw ham, a mutton 
bone, a chicken, two handfuls of beans parboiled ; add five 
or six quarts of cold water ; place the pot on the fire and 
watch it carefully, skimming the soup constantly ; as soon as 
it begins to boil draw it on one side, placing it where it will 
simmer, but not boil ; two ho'urs later add a small cabbage 
(blanched), a soupcon of garlic, two large tomatoes peeled 
and sliced, a carrot peeled and sliced, and two or three 
cloves ; an hour later add two smoked sausages. When 
the meats are cooked pour off the bouillon into another 
casserole and keep it hot. Meanwhile, put into another 
pot an onion, chopped fine and fried in butter to a light 
brown ; add to this a handful of rice, and fill the pot three 
quarters full of bouillon ; cover, and cook slowly. When 
the rice is cooked add two tablespoonf nls of tomato sauce, 
and a teaspoonf ul of white pepper ; put into a soup tureen, 
and pour over the rice the bouillon, which must previous- 
ly have been carefully strained ; arrange the soup meat, 
beef, ham, chicken, and sausage on a long oval dish ; sur- 
round with the vegetables, and serve. 

Pucker o, Pot au Feu d la Fspagnole. — Put into an 
earthen pot two pounds of breast of beef, a chicken cut up 
and fried to a light brown in butter, a pig's ear, a pound 
of lean ham, chopped fine, and three handfuls of parboiled 
beans ; pour over all five quarts of water, and cook slowly, 
as above. When the soup has simmered two hours add a 
clove of garlic, an onion, a bunch of sorrel, and a pinch of 



SOUPS. , 37 

thyme, a large head of lettuce, the same of celery, a large 
carrot, and half a cabbage (blanched) ; an hour later add a 
little okra, and continue to cook slowly. When about to 
serve, strain the bouillon through a sieve into a heated 
soup tureen ; add some slices of bread browned, cut into 
dice and fried lightly in butter ; add, also, the okra ; ar- 
range the meat and vegetables on an oval platter, and serve 
together with the soup. 

Posol, Pot an Feu a la Polonaise. — Put into an earth- 
en pot a piece of breast of beef, the same of veal, a piece 
of bacon, the same of raw ham, and some vegetables; pour 
over all about five quarts of water, and cook slowly ; two 
hours later add two small chickens, cut up, with their liver 
and lights ; as soon as the chickens are cooked take them 
out of the pot, strain the bouillon, and pour two quarts of 
it into another casserole ; allow this to come to a boil ; and 
when at boiling-point add enough corn flour to thicken it 
to a cream ; twenty-five minutes later skim the soup ; pour 
into the heated soup tureen ; add the chickens and ham 
chopped fine, and a pinch of chopped fennel. 

French Pot au Feu (Soyer). — Six pounds of lean beef; 
four quarts of water; set near the fire and skim; when 
nearly boiling add a spoonful and a half of salt, half a 
pound of liver, two carrots, four turnips, eight young or 
two old leeks, one very large head of celery, two onions 
(one of them burned) with a clove in each, a piece of pars- 
nip, and some sliced okra ; skim again and simmer five 
hours, adding a little cold water now and then ; take off 
the fat, put slices of bread into the tureen, lay half the 
vegetables over, and half the broth, and serve the meat 
(bouilli) separately with the other vegetables. 

French Sheets-Head Soup (Soyer). — One sheep's head 
and pluck boiled gently in a gallon of water till reduced 
to half the quantity; a small teacupful of pearl barley, 



38 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

six large onions, one turnip, one carrot, a bunch of sweet 
herbs, and a few cloves and peppercorns ; add a little mush- 
room catsup, some chopped okra, and thicken with some 
browned flour rolled in butter. (It is better to make this 
soup the day before it is wanted.) Cut the meat off the 
head in slices and then into small squares, which must be 
put into the soup when it is warmed up for use ; finish it 
up with a forcemeat and little egg balls, a teacupful of 
white wine, a little sliced lemon, and very little sugar. 
If properly made this soup is delicious. 

Potage a la Grecy. — Wash, scrape, and slice carrots, tur- 
nips, celery, and onions ; blanch them a quarter of an hour 
in boiling water ; drain them ; put them in a saucepan 
with a good piece of butter, some thin slices of ham, a lit- 
tle sugar ; put over a moderate fire ; moisten with bouillon ; 
when well cooked take out the vegetables, put them in a 
mortar, pound them', and press them through a strainer, 
thinning them with the bouillon in which they were 
cooked ; put this puree on the fire, and let it simmer slow- 
ly two hours ; then skim it and pour it in the soup tureen, 
over fried croutons of bread, and serve hot. 

Potage a la Gonde. — Make a puree of red beans, well 
cooked with bouillon gras • pass it through a fine sieve 
and pour it over croutons of bread fried in butter. 

Puree de Bceuf a la Pusse. — Take a piece of the rump 
weighing about three pounds; cut off all the fat and skin, 
chop and pound it in a mortar, adding a very small piece 
of fresh butter, a tiny pinch of powdered sugar, and salt 
to taste; add, also, the yolks of three eggs, and mix all 
together until as smooth as cream ; chop an onion, fry it 
lightly in butter, dust it with a little flour, and cook for an 
instant or two ; then pour over it two quarts of strong beef 
bouillon colored a rich brown ; the moment it begins to 
boil, set the casserole on the side of the fire, skim, and 



SOUPS. 39 

strain ; twenty minutes after add the pounded beef, stir- 
ring carefully one way ; let it cook (but not boil) for twen- 
ty minutes longer, then pour into the soup tureen, and 
serve. This is a splendid soup. 

Potage d la Heine. — Put into the soup pot a chicken, 
a knuckle of veal, half a pound of breast of veal, salt 
slightly, and add five quarts of water, a small bunch of 
shallots and chivary, half a head of celery, a turnip, a 
carrot, and some whole cloves ; when it boils up add two 
or three handfuls of pearl barley, and continue to cook 
slowly, but steadily, until the meat is boiled to rags; then 
take out the meat and skim and strain the soup until it is 
thoroughly freed from grease ; set the casserole containing 
the soup in a warm place on the stove, where the soup 
will keep hot but not boil ; take the breasts of the chicken, 
chop, and pound them to a paste in a mortar ; adding the 
yolks of eight eggs and one whole egg; also a glass of the 
thickest fresh cream ; season with salt, nutmeg, and a pinch 
of sugar ; then pass through a fine hair sieve and pour into 
a buttered mould ; cook d bain-marie (the water rising to 
half the height of the mould) until of the proper consis- 
tency (i. e., like soft bread); when cold cut into small 
squares and arrange in a heated soup tureen, adding, also, 
the points of some white asparagus, cooled in water (the 
asparagus should be hot) ; pour over these the soup, and 
serve. 

Puree of Sorrel. — Take a large quantity of sorrel, some 
chervil, several heads of the best lettuce, and some beet 
tops ; wash, clean, pick, and rinse them thoroughly ; then 
dry, and throw them into a porcelain-lined casserole with a 
large piece of butter, some small button onions, and some 
parsley ; when the sorrel is almost cooked add some good 
bouillon, strain it, add the yolks of three eggs, and cook, 
stirring constantly until it assumes the consistency of 
cream ; salt and pepper to taste. 



40 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Puree of Chestnuts. — Roast some large, line chestnuts 
until you can peel and scrape them easily ; then put them 
into a casserole with a large piece of the best butter, a 
large ladlef til of strong broth, and half a tumbler of white 
wine ; cook over a very slow fire until the soup assumes 
the consistency of cream ; then salt, strain, and serve. 

Spinach Soup a la Darey. — Take two or three handfuls 
of spinach, wash clean, and boil with plenty of water and 
a little salt ; strain off the water (when the spinach is thor- 
oughly cooked) and work the spinacli through a hair sieve ; 
make a white sauce with butter, milk, or cream, and flour, 
pepper, and salt ; then put the spinach into the sauce and 
put on the fire, and let it come to a boil ; serve very hot. 
The more cream you put into it the better it will be. If 
not sufficiently green it can be colored with essence of 
spinach. (See receipts for essences, etc.) 

Puree of Woodcock or Pigeons. — Roast the woodcock 
(or pigeons) ; skin, bone, and pound them in a mortar with 
a quantity of bread crumb fried in fresh butter, and the 
yolks of four hard-boiled eggs. "When you have reduced 
all to the consistency of smooth paste add a ladleful of 
good broth, and strain into an earthen stewpan ; add more 
broth, and a ladleful of beef juice; stir continually until 
the puree is smooth as velvet and thick as good cream ; 
then salt slightly, and cook d lain-marie; just before 
taking it from the fire stir in a coffeespoonful of burned 
sugar, and a liqueur-glass of sherry. 

White Soup for Supper. — One quart of new milk ; one 
pint of fresh cream ; one piece of lemon peel ; one stick 
of celery ; two laurel leaves ; one lump of white sugar ; 
one pinch of fine salt ; three coriander seeds ; one small 
stick of cinnamon ; two ounces of sweet almonds ; three 
bitter almonds — all blanched, pounded fine in a mortar, and 
then mixed with the cream-yolks of ten eggs beaten light. 



SOUPS. 41 

Boil the milk and all other ingredients, except the 
cream, almonds, and eggs, for a few minutes; set aside to 
cool ; then strain and return to the fire in a stewpan ; im- 
mediately mixing the cream, almonds, and eggs smoothly 
with it; stir till it thickens, and then pour over slices of 
French roll, which should be previously placed in the tu- 
reen ; serve hot. 

Mock Turtle Soup, No. 1. — Boil a sheep's head, with 
the liver and haslets. When thoroughly done, strain, re- 
move the meat from the head, take out the brains, remove 
all the gristle from the haslets and liver ; pound all this 
in a mortar to a paste ; season with grated onions, pepper, 
and salt ; bind with the yolks of eggs ; make into balls, 
and fry ; strain the bouillon in which the head has boiled, 
thicken with a little browned flour (brown your flour and 
mix to a paste with a little water), and stir it into the 
bouillon ; a tablespoonful of allspice, one teaspoonful of 
cloves, one nutmeg, powdered and sifted ; chop two hard- 
boiled eggs into dice ; add them with the forcemeat balls 
just before serving; pour, at the last moment, a teacupful 
of Madeira in the soup, and serve with sliced lemon. 

Soup Stock, To Clear, No. 2 (" Boston Cook-book ").— 
" White and shell of one egg for every quart of stock. 

" Remove the fat, and mix the flavoring with the stock 
while it is quite cold ; beat it well ; then, and not until 
then, put the stock on the fire ; add the white of egg and 
shell instantly, while the stock is still cold ; stir steadily 
and uninterruptedly until the stock is very hot to keep the 
egg from settling ; then leave it and let it boil ten min- 
utes. By this time a thick scum will have formed ; set 
the stock back on the stove, and add half a cup of cold 
water ; let it stand ten minutes, while you prepare your 
jar, colander, and fine napkin ready for straining; wring 
a fine napkin out of hot water, and lay it over the colan- 
der (which should be placed on the jar) ; put the finest 



42 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

wire strainer on the napkin, and then pour it all through ; 
do this slowly, and do not squeeze the napkin at any stage 
of the process." 

The author of the " Boston Cook-book " advises that 
soup should never be skimmed, and is undoubtedly right 
in so advising. 

Potage a la Heine d) Angleterre (" Boston Cook-book "). 
— Remove the fat from one quart of the water in which 
a chicken has been boiled to rags ; season highly with cel- 
ery salt and white pepper, also a little onion, and put on 
to boil ; mash the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs fine, and 
mix with half a cup of bread or cracker crumbs, which 
have been soaked until soft in a little milk ; chop the white 
meat of a chicken until fine like meal, and stir it into the 
egg-and-bread paste ; add one pint of hot cream slowly, 
and then rub all into the hot chicken liquor ; boil five min- 
utes; add more salt if needed, and if too thick add more 
cream ; or, if not thick enough, add more fine cracker 
dust. It should be like a 'puree. 



FISH. 

A FISH TABLE FOE THE NORTHERN STATES. 

Bass, Black In season in October, November, and December. 

Bass, Striped Particularly good in October, in season in November and 

December. 

Blackfish In season in July, August, September, October ; best in 

November. 

Bluefish In season in June, July, August, September, and October. 

Catfish In season in January, February, March, October, No- 
vember, and December. 

Clams March, April, May, June, July, August. 

Cod All the year, but at its best in November and December. 

Crabs, Soft Shell. . . .In season in May and June; at their best in July and 
August. 

Flounders All the year, but best in January, February, March, 

October, November, and December. 

Haddock All the year, but best in November. 

Halibut All the year, but best in September, October, and No- 
vember. 

Herring.. January, February, March, April, and December. 

Kingfish July and August ; at its best in September. 

Lobsters All the year, but supremely good in July and August. 

Mackerel, Spanish. . .In season in June and July; best in August. 

Oysters In season in January, February, March, April, December ; 

best in September, October, November. 

Perch All the year, but best in October and November. 

Pike or Pickerel . . . .January, February, March, September, October, Novem- 
ber, December. 

Salmon April, May, June ; best in July. 

Shad April, May, June. 

Sheepshead July, August, September; best in October. 

Shrimps April, October, November. 

Smelts January, November, and December. 

Sunfish In season in October only. 

Trout, Brook Best in May ; in season, however, in April and September. 

Trout, Lake In season in September and October ; best in November. 

Weakfish In season in July, August, September ; best in October. 

Whitefish In season in April, May, June ; best in July. 



44 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Fish, to (Jhoose. — In choosing flounders, see that the 
pale side has the appearance of white earthenware. If 
clear and curly, the fish is not good. 

Bass should be sounded over the back. If the back 
sinks about the second dorsal fin, do not buy it. Bass, if 
gutted at once, and hung by the head in a cool place, will 
remain good for two or three days without salt. 

Eels are fresh when their skin is full ; if wrinkled, they 
are stale. Pickerel should have an olive-tinted skin, and 
golden spots. If the coloring be pale and faded, the pick- 
erel are stale. Trout should have a small head, thick 
shoulders, and a general splendor of coloring. If pale in 
color, they are stale. Salmon should be round and broad, 
even to the tail. If covered with parasitical insects, that 
is a sure sign of its having just come out of the water, and 
of a very high condition of excellence. As long as the 
scales are resplendent and silvery the fish are in a good, 
eatable state ; just as soon as a coppery hue appears they 
are no longer fit to eat. In choosing " crimped salmon," 
see that the flesh rises at the edges of the cuts, disclosing 
firm, elastic flakes. When the fish is stale, the gills turn 
brown, and dishonest fishmongers stain them with blood ; 
but this trick is easily detected by those who are aware of 
it. Always buy crabs and lobsters alive, heavy, and lively. 

Salt Fish, to Choose. — Salt cod should be perfectly dry, 
not hard to the touch, and completely free from spots or 
mildew. Dried salmon should be thick and full-backed, 
and the flesh of a deep pink color. If dim red, this color 
has been given by saltpetre to a colorless, unhealthy fish. 
Red herring should shine like burnished metal, and be 
very stiff ; if they are dull, soft, or broken, they are not 
good. 

All fish kept in pickle should be clean in appearance 
and firm and elastic to the touch. 

Fish, to Clean. — Fish should be carefully and thor- 



FISH. 45 

onghly cleaned, but should be lightly and rapidly handled, 
or the flesh will lose its firmness and delicacy. After be- 
ing thoroughly and quickly washed under a pipe of run- 
ning water, it should be hung by the head until every drop 
is drained off. Never leave fish lying in water. 

Cod should be very carefully cleaned, all the interstices 
of the backbone being freed from blood either with a 
knife or a small brush. Unless this is done the blood 
turns black in boiling, producing a most disgusting ap- 
pearance. 

Kays, and all fishes of that class, should be skinned as 
soon after they are dead as possible. If the skin does not 
come off readily, dip the fish in boiling water. 

Fish that are to be opened down the back are best split 
from nose to tail. 

In cleaning flatfish, open them considerably, otherwise 
it is hard to extract the whole of the intestines ; and it is 
this neglect which makes the abdominal parts of flatfish 
have such an unpleasant, muddy taste. 

General Directions for Boiling. — Large fish are gener- 
ally boiled, and it is well to add a little salt, vinegar, and 
horseradish to the water, as the addition not only pre- 
vents the skin of the fish from breaking, but really im- 
proves the flavor. Large fish must be boiled slowly. The 
head and shoulders of the cod are the parts generally best 
for boiling. It is best to bind them with broad tape. 
When sufficiently cooked, the flesh will leave the backbone 
white and fkdry, the skin rises up, and the eyes turn white. 
The sounds, the jelly parts about the jowl, the palate, and 
the tongue, are esteemed rare delicacies by the epicures in 
fish. 

Salmon, also, if it be a large fish, is best boiled in por- 
tions. After it has been a minute in the boiling water, 
lift the drain and let the water flow off. Repeat this sev- 
eral times, and it will cause the curd to set, and the fish to 
eat more crisply. The thinnest part of salmon is the fat- 



46 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

test, and consequently the best part. Some epicures, 
notably William Henry Herbert, recommend for boiling 
salmon "a kettle screeching with intense heat, and filled 
with brine strong enough to bear an egg.' 7 

Brook Trout are generally fried or broiled, but the lake 
trout found in Hamilton County, Seneca Lake, etc., are 
best boiled. 

Frying Fish — General Directions. — Small fish are usu- 
ally best fried. The fire should always be clear and fierce, 
and the pan must not be too old, or the fish will stick to 
it. Beef drippings is the best thing in which to fry fish,, 
and plenty of it must be used. The drippings must be so 
hot that a piece of bread dropped into it will brown in- 
stantly. 

In frying herring or shad, score them three or four 
times across the body into the very backbone. This mode 
of treatment causes the flesh to be more crisp and firm. 
After the fish are fried they should be laid on a soft cloth 
before the fire, and turned every two or three minutes till 
dry on both sides. It is well to keep old linen table-cloths 
cut up for this purpose. 

Fried Catfish. — Skin, clean, remove the heads, sprinkle 
with salt, and lay aside for an hour and a half. Then dip 
in beaten eggs, roll in bread or cracker crumbs, and fry 
quickly in hot lard or drippings. 

/Stewed Catfish. — Skin, clean, remove the heads, salt, 
and set aside, as for frying. After two hours arrange them 
in a saucepan, cover with cold water, and stew gently for 
half an hour or longer, according to their size. Put into 
the saucepan a chopped shallot, a bunch of chopped pars- 
ley, a little pepper, a tablespoonful of browned flour mixed 
to a paste with cold water, and a heaping tablespoonful of 
butter. Boil up once, take out the fish carefully, and lay 



FISH. 47 

iti a deep dish. Boil up again, pour over the fish, and 
serve. 

' Brandade de Morue. — Soak your codfish until it be- 
comes flaky; drain it well (for this dish you always use a 
salt cod ; shred your fish ; pound it piece by piece in a 
mortar with a little clove of well-pounded garlic ; stir into 
it (always stirring the same way, and drop by drop) a glass 
of olive-oil. Then put your fish in a saucepan on a slow 
fire, and continue to stir in the oil drop by drop ; add oc- 
casionally a little sweet milk, until the fish has the consist- 
ency of cream cheese. Serve it in a dish surrounded by 
' croutons of bread fried in butter. 

Codfish d la Provencals. — Boil and drain your fish ; take 
a dish you can set on the fire, slice some eschalottes and 
an onion ; chop up some parsley ; add a little olive-oil and 
a piece of butter as large as an egg. Lay your fish in 
this ; cover it with a layer of this same dressing ; season 
with salt and pepper; cover with bread crumbs, and bake 
with fire above and below. 

Fresh Codfish, Boiled. — Lay the fish in cold water 
slightly salted for half an hour ; wipe it dry ; wrap it in a 
clean linen cloth well floured, stitched to the shape of the 
fish, and put it into the fish-kettle with water enough to 
cover it. The water should be slightly salted. Boil brisk- 
ly, allowing an hour from the time the water fairly boils 
for a piece of cod weighing three pounds. If boiled with- 
out the cloth, half an hour. Drain, and serve on a very 
hot dish with old-fashioned egg sauce; garnish with pars- 
ley and slices of hard-boiled eggs. 

Salt Codfish, Boiled. — Put the fish to soak in lukewarm 
water for at least sixteen or seventeen hours before cook- 
ing. Change the water after two hours, then again after 
nine hours, washing off the salt. Two hours before din- 



48 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

ner take out the cod, remove any crystal of salt adhering 
to it, and plunge into very cold water. Finally, set over 
the fire with enough lukewarm water to cover it, and boil 
half an hour ; drain well, serve on a hot dish with sliced 
beets and hard-boiled eggs; drench with egg sauce and 
serve. 

Codfish Balls. — Prepare the fish precisely as for boiling 
whole. When duly washed and soaked, cut into pieces, 
and boil twenty minutes more ; drain very dry, and spread 
upon a dish to cool. When cold, pick to pieces with a 
fork, removing every vestige of skin and bone, and shred- 
ding very fine; add an equal bulk of mashed potatoes, a 
beaten egg, a lump of butter, and a little rich milk ; flour 
your hands, form the codfish into round, flat cakes, and fry 
in good drippings to a light brown. Desiccated codfish is 
equally good, more quickly prepared, and as cheap. 

Salt Codfish, Stewed with Eggs. — Prepare as for balls. 
Heat almost to boiling a pint of rich, sweet milk, and stir 
into it gradually three eggs well beaten, a tablespoonful 
of butter, a little chopped parsley and butter, and, lastly, 
the fish; boil up once, and turn into a deep dish lined 
with buttered toast. 

Codfish Pie. — Take a piece of the middle of a small 
cod ; salt it well one night ; next day wash it, and season 
with pepper, salt, and a very little nutmeg, mixed; put 
it into a deep dish with a little butter and good broth ; 
cover with a crust, making an aperture in the crust, and, 
when the pie is baked, pour in through this aperture a 
sauce composed of one spoonful of stock, a quarter of a 
pint of cream, a little flour and butter, a grate of lemon 
and nutmeg, and, if obtainable, some oysters. The sauce 
should be allowed to boil up once before being poured 
into the pie. 



FISH. 49 

Shrimp Pie. — A quart of shrimps well picked. If very 
salt season them with only mace and a clove or two ; skin, 
bone, and mince two or three anchovies ; mix these with 
the spice, and then season the shrimps ; put some butter 
in the bottom of a dish and cover the shrimps with a glass 
of sharp white wine. The paste must be light and thin. 
Bake in a quick oven. 

Chowder, Massachusetts. — Five pounds of bass or cod cut 
into strips an inch thick and three long; six large onions 
fried in the gravy of fried pork; oysters; three cups of 
oyster liquor; oyster crackers, well soaked in milk, and 
thickly buttered. 

Line the bottom of the pot with a layer of fish ; scat- 
ter upon this a few slices of the fried onion, some salt, 
half a dozen whole black peppers, a clove or two, a pinch 
of thyme, and one of parsley, a tablespoonful of mush- 
room catsup, and six oysters ; then a layer of the soaked 
and buttered oyster crackers ; then fish, etc. .Repeat the 
order already given until the pot is full ; cover with wa- 
ter, and, as the water boils, add the oyster liquor. This is 
delicious chowder. 

Chowder, Rhode Island. — Four pounds of cod or sea 
bass, cut into pieces four inches square ; one pound of salt 
pork, cut into strips, and soaked in hot water five minutes. 

Cover the bottom of the chowder pot with a layer of 
the pork; place on this a layer of fish, then a layer of 
chopped onions, a little summer savory, parsley, and cay- 
enne ; then a layer of split cream crackers, moistened with 
warm water ; above this lay a stratum of pork ; and then 
again fish, onions, seasoning, and crackers. Repeat this 
order until the dish is full ; let the last layer of crackers 
be well buttered ; pour in barely enough water to cover 
all ; cover the pot ; stew gently for an hour, watching that 
the water does not sink too low. Should it leave the up- 
per layer exposed, replenish carefully from the boiling tea- 

3 






50 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

kettle; when thoroughly cooked take out the chowder 
and put into the tureen; thicken the gravy with a table- 
spoonful of flour and the same of butter ; boil up once, 
and pour over the chowder. 

St James's Club Chowder. — Six slices of good pickled 
pork, fried brown on both sides ; seven pounds of tautog, 
dressed, with the heads on, and each fish cut into three 
pieces ; pepper and salt to taste ; plenty of onions, sliced 
and chopped; two pounds of sea biscuits; one quart bot- 
tle of the best champagne ; one tumblerful of port wine. 

Fry the pork in a deep dinner-pot ; when fried take out 
the pork, leaving the drippings, and put on the drippings 
as many pieces of fish as will make a smooth layer ; throw 
on the fish three handfuls -of onions ; salt and pepper to 
taste ; then put on the six slices of pork ; then the rest of 
the fish ; then, again, a layer of onions ; pepper and salt 
to taste ; then pour on just enough water to cover all ; put 
the cover on the pot ; place it on the fire ; let it boil gen- 
tly and slowly for thirty minutes. It is to boil, actually 
boil thirty minutes, and should at all events cook until the 
onion is soft ; put in at this point a quart bottle of the 
best champagne, a tumblerful of equally good port wine, 
and two pounds of sea biscuits, soaked for a moment or 
two in boiling water; then stir up all with a long spoon, 
and let all boil again for five minutes ; then taste, add 
pepper and salt if necessary, and dish. Potatoes may be 
eaten with chowder, but should always be boiled in a 
separate pot. 

Clam Chowder. — Five or six slices of fat pork, fried 
crisp, and chopped fine; sprinkle in the bottom of a pot; 
place on the pork a layer of clams ; sprinkle with cayenne 
pepper and salt, and scatter bits of butter thickly over all ; 
then have a layer of chopped onions, then one of small 
crackers, split and moistened with warm milk; over all 
this pour a little of the fat left in the pan in which the 



FISH. 51 

pork is fried ; then proceed as above until the pot is full, 
or nearly so ; cover with water and stew, closely covered, 
for three quarters of an hour ; drain off all the liquor that 
will now freely ; and when you have turned the chowder 
into the tureen, pour the gravy back into the pot ; thicken 
with cracker crumbs, browned and rolled ; add a glass of 
sherry wine, some catsup, and spiced sauce ; boil up once 
and pour over the chowder. 

Scallops, Fried. — If you do not buy the scallops pre- 
pared, boil them and take out the hearts. The heart is the 
only part fit for frying or stewing. Dip in beaten egg, 
roll in crumbs, and fry in hot lard or dripping. 

Raw Clams. — The small Little Neck clams are excellent 
raw; serve in the shell, as you do raw 0} r sters. 

Boast Clams. — Proceed as for roast oysters. 

Clam Fritters. — Twelve clams, chopped fine ; one pint 
of milk ; three eggs. 

Pour the liquor from the clams into the milk ; add to 
this the beaten eggs, salt and pepper to taste, and flour 
enough to make a thin batter; fry in hot lard by table- 
spoonfuls. 

Scalloped Clams. — Chop the clams fine, and season with 
pepper and salt; then place in another dish some rolled 
bread crumbs, moistened with milk, clam liquor, and melt- 
ed butter ; stir the clams into this ; then serve in patty- 
pans, or clean buttered clam shells, after baking in the 
oven. 

Courtbouillon a la Creole, No. 1. — Slice and fry some 
onions in a saucepan ; add slices of tomatoes, salt, and pep- 
per ; clean and scale your fish ; cut it in slices ; put it in 
the saucepan with the onions and tomatoes and some wa- 



52 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

ter ; add a little chopped parsley ; cook till the fish is 
done ; then add a glass of claret or white wine, whichever 
you prefer ; let it boil up, and take out the slices of fish ; 
place each slice on a piece of toasted bread, skim the sauce 
and pour over, and serve. 

Creole Courtbouillon for Fish, No. 2. — Clean your fish 
and draw it through the gills; put it in a fish boiler: cov- 
er it well with water ; add a glass of vinegar, salt, pepper, 
clove, laurel leaf, onions and carrots sliced, thyme, and 
parsley ; let it boil until the fish is done ; remove the fish 
boiler to the back of the stove, and leave your fish in the 
courtbouillon till you are ready to serve it. The same 
courtbouillon can serve as often as it keeps good. You 
can substitute wine for vinegar — using half wine and half 
water. 

Fish au courtbouillon should be served very hot on a 
folded napkin on a dish surrounded by bunches of parsley. 

Creole Courtbouillon for Sea Fish, No. 3. — Boil in 
half water and half milk; salt and pepper. The fish 
becomes white and firm. Serve with highly seasoned 
sauces. 

Stuffed Crabs a la Creole. — Boil your hard-shell crabs ; 
remove the shells ; take out the sand bag and the spongy 
substances from the sides ; take out the meat and fat care- 
fully, and chop them up with chopped onions, minced 
ham, bread crumbs, butter or oils, suet, and plenty of red 
pepper ; bind it with beaten yolk of egg, and fry it well ; 
clean the upper shell of the crab, and stuff it with this 
crab stuffing; sprinkle over a little bread crumbs (pow- 
dered) ; put on each stuffed crab a lump of butter, and 
return it to the stove to bake a few minutes, and 
serve. 

Crab Croquettes are made in the same manner ; serve in 



FISH. 53 

silver scallop shells, or powder them with bread crumbs, 
and fry them in boiling lard or oil. 

Croquettes of lobster may be made in the same manner. 

Soft-shell Crabs (Italian Monastery). — Take some ten- 
der, healthy, living crabs ; wash and clean them thorough- 
ly, and put them in a deep dish, pan, or bowl which you 
have previously filled with fresh milk or cream in which 
two or three eggs are beaten up ; leave the crabs in this 
for two hours, in which time they will probably have eat- 
en all the milk and egg, and be so fat as to be quite tor- 
pid and motionless; then dip them in beaten egg, roll 
them in bread crumbs, and fry quickly in batter; garnish 
with fried parsley, pour a little lemon juice over them, 
and serve. 

Roast Codfish (Monastery of Certosa). — Take a large, 
fresh codfish ; remove the head, scales, fins, and tail ; open 
and clean it thoroughly; sprinkle the inside thinly and 
evenly with white pepper, powdered parsley, two large 
truffles very thinly sliced, one very small onion thinly 
sliced, some grated and browned bread crumbs ; moisten 
the whole with melted butter, in which you have beaten 
up a teaspoonf ul of any piquant bottled sauce. This done, 
roll up the codfish tightly and neatly, binding it firmly 
with twine, again bathing it thoroughly with the melted 
butter, prepared as above, and covering it with grated 
bread crumbs. This done, put it on the spit, and roast it 
before a clear, slow fire for an hour, basting it frequently 
with the melted butter and browned bread crumbs. When 
cooked place it in a very hot dish, pour over it the remain- 
der of the sauce with which it was basted, and the juice 
of two lemons; sprinkle it with a little grated parsley, 
garnish with alternate slices of lemon and pickled beets, 
and serve. It will be found delicious. Plain boiled pota- 
toes should be served with it. 



54 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Roast Sturgeon (Italian Monastery). — Prepare a sauce 
in the following manner: Put into a casserole a large 
piece of good butter, a pinch of flour (browned), salt, 
pepper, parsley, onion, sweet herbs, spice, and a tiny piece 
of red pepper. The casserole should previously have 
been rubbed with garlic. Add to the mixture a large 
glass of cold water and half a glass of the best vine- 
gar; let all cook together, stirring it continually, either 
with a silver or a wooden spoon. When the mixture is 
thoroughly assimilated take it from the Are, and as soon 
as it is lukewarm, drop into it the thick slices of sturgeon. 
They must, of course, have been previously thoroughly 
cleaned and trimmed. Leave the pieces of sturgeon in 
the above-named sauce for three hours or more; then take 
them out, let them drain, put them on the spit, and let 
them roast before a slow fire, basting them continually 
with the sauce; arrange in a very hot dish, when cooked, 
and garnish with slices of lemon. 

Mullets or Small Fish a la Zivomese. — Choose small 
red mullets or other pan fish, taking care that they should 
not be more than four or five inches long. When thor- 
oughly cleaned arrange them in an earthen stewpan with 
a tiny pinch of garlic, the very finest quality of olive-oil 
(or good butter), a little fennel, parsley, and thyme; when 
partly cooked add a fair quantity of good tomato sauce. 
Before serving sprinkle well with the finest grated and 
browned bread crumbs. 

Mullets, White Bait, or other Pan Fish, with Sauce 
Piquante. — Arrange, as before, in an earthen stewpan, 
putting in delicate young onions finely chopped, and a 
sufficient quantity of the best olive-oil (or good butter); 
moistening all with broth, or, better still, with fish broth, 
and a glass of sweet white wine. Just before serving add 
to this any kind of sauce piquante. (Very good.) 



FISH. 55 

Carp a la Chambord. — Take a large, fine, male carp ; 
cleanse thoroughly, bone, and stuff" with a mixture of 
minced fish, butter, bread crumbs, and grated parsley; 
then cover it with thin slices of ham and fat bacon, wrap 
it in well buttered white paper, and bind the whole neatly 
and firmly with thread ; place it in a fish kettle with two 
or three glasses of good white wine, delicate young onions 
chopped fine, thyme, laurel, celery seed, spices, salt, and 
pepper, taking care every now and then to baste and turn 
the fish so that it may be thoroughly soaked and impreg- 
nated by the sauce. It should boil slowly for an hour, 
with fire below and above it ; then take it from the fire, 
let it drain, remove carefully the paper and threads, and 
arrange the carp daintily in a very hot dish ; garnishing 
it with tiny fish, truffles, slices of lemon, prawns, crawfish, 
slices of fried bread cut into pretty shapes, etc., pour 
round it the best kind of white sauce, to which has been 
added the sauce in which it was cooked. It should be 
served very hot. 

Stewed Eels. — Skin and clean the eels, carefully extract- 
ing the fat from the inside ; cut into lengths of an inch 
and a half, put into a saucepan with enough cold water 
to cover them, throw in a little salt and chopped parsley, 
and stew slowly, carefully covered, for an hour ; add, at 
the last, a large tablespoonful of butter, the same of 
browned flour mixed with cold water, a wineglassful of 
sherry, and a quarter of a lemon cut into the thinnest 
possible slices. 

Fried Eels. — Prepare as for stewing, roll in flour, and 
fry in hot lard or butter to a fine brown. 

Lobsters Boiled. — Lobsters for boiling should be lively, 
and not too large. Tie the claws together, put a handful 
of salt in the boiling water, and plunge in your lobster ; 
boil from half an hour to an hour, according to size ; when 



56 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

done remove from the pot, and lay — face downward — on 
a sieve to dry ; when cold split open the body and tail, ex- 
tract the meat from the claws, and throw away the lady 
fingers and the head. 

Lobster Croquettes. — The meat of a well-boiled lobster 
chopped fine, and seasoned with pepper, salt, and pow- 
dered mace; mix this with a quarter of the quantity of 
rolled bread crumbs, and two tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter; make into oval balls; roll these in beaten egg, 
then in cracker crumbs, then fry in butter; serve very 
hot. 

Lobster d la Bordelaise. — Boil your lobster in water 
with three tablespoonfuls of vinegar, slices of carrots, on- 
ions, a bay leaf, a clove of garlic, salt, and pepper ; let it 
boil a few moments ; take off the shell and cut it across in 
eight pieces ; break the claws and put them in a saucepan 
with some white wine, a soup bunch, salt, and pepper; 
cover the saucepan and let it simmer ten minutes; fry 
some chopped onions in butter in another saucepan, add a 
spoonful of flour, make a roux, and pour it in the sauce- 
pan in which you have cooked the lobster claws ; let it 
cook a few minutes, stirring continually with a wooden 
spoon ; add two tablespoonfuls of tomato sauce, and cay- 
enne pepper ; put your slices of lobster in this, let them 
warm through, and serve liot. 

Hot Lobster (William Makepeace Thackeray). — Pull 
about three pounds of boiled lobster to pieces with two 
silver forks; make a sauce of mustard, vinegar, tomato 
catsup, and plenty of cayenne pepper and salt ; put lob- 
ster, sauce, and half a pound of good fresh butter into a 
chafing-dish ; close or cover the chafing-dish tightly, and 
when the lobster begins to cook, open the chafing-dish 
and stir quickly with a silver spoon ; cook twenty min- 
utes, if necessary ; and two minutes before blowing out 



FISH. 57 

the fire under the chafing-dish, open it for a moment, and 
throw in a wineglassful of good sherry, stirring quickly, 
as before. " This is a dish fit for an emperor." 

Potted Lobster. — Half boil the lobsters, pick out the 
meat, cut into small bits, season with mace, white pepper, 
nutmeg, and salt, press close into an earthenware pot, cover 
with butter, bake half an hour, and put the spawn in ; when 
cold take the lobster out, and pack into small jars with a 
little of the butter; beat the other butter in a, mortar with 
some of the spawn ; then mix that colored butter with as 
much as will be sufficient to cover the pots, and strain it. 
Cayenne may be added if approved. 

Gurry of Lobsters or Prawns. — Parboil, take them from 
the shells, and lay in a pan with a small piece of mace, 
three or four spoonfuls of veal gravy, and four of cream ; 
rub smooth one or two teaspoonfuls of curry-powder, a 
teaspoonful of flour, and an ounce of butter; simmer an 
hour; salt to taste, and squeeze in the juice of half a 
lemon. 

Cold Boiled Sahnon. — May be made into croquettes, 
mayonnaise, a stew of potatoes and salmon, or, better still, 
devilled — following Thackeray's receipt for devilled lob- 
ster. 

Boiled Halibut. — Lay in cold salt and water for an hour ; 
wipe dry, and score the skin in squares; put into the ket- 
tle with cold salted water enough to cover it ; let it heat 
gradually, and boil from half to three quarters of an hour: 
drain and serve on a very hot dish, with sauce Hollondaise 
or any other sauce you prefer. 

Cold boiled halibut may be treated like cold boiled salm- 
on. (See receipts above.) 

Baked Halibut. — A piece of halibut weighing five or 

3* 



58 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

six pounds ; soak in salt and water for two hours ; wipe 
dry and score the skin in squares; bake in a tolerably hot 
oven for an hour, basting often with butter and water; 
test with a silver fork; if the fork penetrate easily it is 
done. It should be of a fine brown. Add to the gravy 
in the dripping-pan a tablespoonfnl of walnut catsup, the 
juice of a lemon, and a teaspoonful of Worcestershire 
sauce ; thicken with browned flour, boil up once, and pour 
over the halibut ; serve in a very hot dish. 

Cold Devilled Halibut (" Common-Sense in the House- 
hold"). — One pound of cold boiled or baked halibut, minced 
very fine, and mixed with the yolks of three eggs rubbed 
to a paste with rich cream ;, two teaspoonfuls of white 
sugar (sifted); one teaspoonful of salt; one teaspoonful 
of made mustard; one teaspoonful of Worcestershire 
sauce; a soupgon of .anchovy paste ; a small teacupful of 
celery vinegar. 

Work all this smoothly into a rich dressing, with enough 
cream to give it the consistency of mayonnaise; stir it into 
the minced fish ; heap in a mound, and garnish with curled 
lettuce, whites of eggs cut into rings, and rounds of pick- 
led beets. 

Mamie's Scalloped Halibut. — Boil the fish, and when 
quite cold shred finely ; make a rich sauce as follows : 
Yolk of one egg, beaten up with two tablespoonfuls of 
sifted flour ; half a pint of rich milk. 

Put into a saucepan, and stir constantly over the fire 
until smooth and thick; do not let it boil; add salt to 
taste, a little black pepper, and cayenne; butter a deep 
dish, and put in alternate layers of fish and sauce; cover 
the top with rolled bread crumbs, dot with bits of butter, 
and bake for half an hour. 

Halibut Steaks. — Clean the fish, skin, and cut into neat 
slices; season with salt and pepper, dip in beaten egg, and 



FISH. 59 

roll in finely rolled bread crumbs ; fry in boiling lard to a 
light brown ; arrange in a circle on a dish, and poor a rich 
cream sauce in the middle. 

Boiled Mackerel. — Clean the mackerel, and wipe care- 
fully with a dry, clean cloth ; wash them lightly with an- 
other cloth dipped in vinegar; wrap in a coarse linen 
cloth, floured, basted closely to the shape of the fish; put 
into a pot, cover with salted water, and boil gently half 
an hour; drain well, and serve on a hot dish with egg 
sauce, or any sauce you prefer. 

Broiled Mackerel (Salt). — Soak over-night in lukewarm 
water; change this early in the morning for very cold, 
and let it lie in this until it is time to cook; then clean 
thoroughly, and wipe quite dry ; split open and lay on a 
buttered gridiron over a clear fire ; when it begins to 
brown turn the other side ; lay on a hot dish, butter plen- 
tifully, and cover for a few moments. 

Boast Pike. — Prepare and draw your fish, lard it well, 
split it, baste it while roasting with white wine, vinegar, 
or lemon juice, and serve it with a rich sauce, in which 
you chop up some oysters and anchovies. 

Fried Carp. — Scale and draw a fine carp ; split it down 
the back ; put aside the fat and the eggs ; steep your carp 
in vinegar, with thyme, laurel leaf, nutmeg, salt, and pep- 
per ; take it out, dry it in a towel, sprinkle with a little 
flour, and fry in boiling lard. When it is nearly done 
throw the fat and eggs, also sprinkled with flour, into the 
frying-pan, and let them fry a good color; sprinkle fine 
salt over your fish ; dress the fat and eggs on the dish with 
the fish ; serve, garnished with fried parsley and slices of 
lemon. 

Broiled Mackerel, No. 1. — Prepare and clean your fish ; 



60 THE UNKIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

sprinkle it with salt and pepper, envelop it in buttered 
paper, broil it on a gridiron, and serve it with a maitre 
d hotel sauce. 

Broiled Mackerel a la Creole, So. 2. — Clean and pre- 
pare your fish ; split it in the back; wrap it in oiled paper, 
and broil it on the gridiron. Just before serving, remove 
the paper, and put in the fish a lump of fresh butter, in 
which you have kneaded some parsley, salt, and pepper. 
The heat of the fish melts the butter. 

Stuffed Trout. — Prepare your fish ; make a stuffing of 
mushrooms, scraps of fish, crumbs of bread, onions, salt, 
and pepper, chopped up with butter. Stuff your fish with 
this ; tie them up carefully, and cook them in a court- 
bouillon ; drain them, and let them cool; dip them 
twice in beaten eggs ; fry them, and serve with a tomato 
sauce. 

Fricandeau of Fish. — Lard some slices of any firm fish ; 
sprinkle with flour, and fry them slightly in lard. Put 
some veal broth in a saucepan with some mushrooms, 
truffles, fine herbs, artichoke bottoms, and slices of celery ; 
let it cook till done ; skim, add a little lemon juice. 
Arrange your slices of fish in a dish, and pour over this 
sauce. 

Salt Fish (Spanish fashion). — Take any kind of very 
salt fish, soak for twenty-four hours, skin, bone, and pick 
into small flakes ; then boil until soft, and set aside to cool. 
Slice finely a couple of onions, fry them in butter until 
they begin to color; add some tomato sauce, a soupcon 
of pepper, and the salt fish. Let the whole simmer on 
a slow fire for a couple of hours, shaking the saucepan 
occasionally. 



FISH. 61 

Baked Mullet— Scale and trim the fish, and put it into 
a frying-pan ; season with pepper and salt ; cover with 
chopped onions and mushrooms ; moisten with a wineglass- 
ful of sherry and a little butter; bake it over a slow fire for 
twenty minutes if a medium-sized fish; keep well basting 
in the liquor, and turn now and then ; dish up very care- 
fully. Make a sauce with half a glassful of sherry, a tea- 
spoonful of chopped parsley, and twelve drops of anchovy 
sauce. Reduce the gravy to one half by boiling, and pour 
over the fish. 

Oysters, to Feed. — Put them into water, and wash with 
a birch besom until quite clean; then lay them round, side 
downwards, in a pan ; sprinkle with flour or oatmeal and 
salt, and cover with water; do the same every day and 
they will fatten. The water should be pretty salt, and 
rather more so than sea water. Bay salt is the best for 
the purpose when it is at hand. 

Oyster Loaves. — Open the oysters ; save their liquor, 
strain it, and then put the oysters to stew in it with a very 
little butter and flour, white pepper, a pinch of nutmeg, 
and a little cream ; stew till tender, and then cut the 
oysters into dice and stuff small hollowed rolls of bread 
with them ; put on a hot dish ; pour over the rolls the 
sauce in which the oysters were cooked, and serve. 

Raw Oysters. — Raw oysters when first served for a din- 
ner which is carved on the table should be placed in their 
shells, on a block of ice, in the centre of the table. 

When the dinner is carved and served from side tables, 
the oysters should be served in small plates of ice, of 
course in their shells. Raw oysters are never removed 
from their shells. These plates should be placed on folded 
napkins. If the ice plates cannot be obtained, oyster 
plates should be used. Sliced lemon should be invariably 
served with oysters, but no sauce of any kind. The serv- 



62 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

ing of raw oysters on ice, is, of course, a matter of taste. 
Oyster plates are equally available, and in the opinion of 
many dinner-givers much prettier, but the oysters should 
always be kept on the ice beforehand. 

Oyster Patties. — Stew the oysters, as for oyster stew, 
taking care, however, to make the sauce much thicker. 
Have ready some small shells of puff paste which have 
been heated on a tin. Fill these shells with the oysters, 
set for a moment in the oven, and serve very hot. 

Oyster Fritters. — Drain the liquor from the oysters, and 
add to it an equal quantity of milk (in the proportion of 
cup to cup), three eggs, a little salt, and flour enough for 
a thin batter. Have ready in the frying pan a few spoon- 
fuls of boiling lard ; try it, to be assured that it is sufli- 
ently hot, and drop the oyster batter in by the spoonful; 
fry quickly a light brown ; drain on white paper, and 
send to table. 

Cream Oysters on Half-shell. — Cook together a bain- 
marie one cup of oyster juice, one of milk, and one of 
cream, with a little salt. When it boils, stir in two table- 
spoonfuls of butter, a little salt, and some white pepper ; 
have ready some fine large oyster shells, washed and but- 
tered, and with a line oyster in each ; range them closely 
in a large baking-pan ; take the cream from the fire, and 
stir in two tablespoonfuls of rice flour mixed with cold 
milk ; replace the casserole on the fire, stir very hard ; 
remove from the fire, and fill up the oyster shells with the 
cream ; bake five or six minutes in the oven after the 
shells become warm. 

Roast Oysters. — Wash and wipe the shells, and lay them 
in a quick oven, or on the top of the stove. When they 
open they are done. Pile on a large dish and send to 



FISH. 63 

table. Remove the upper shell with a knife ; season 
with pepper, salt, and butter, or milk. 

Or, open while raw, leaving the oysters on the lower 
shells ; lay in a large baking-pan, and roast in their shells, 
adding butter, pepper, and salt, before serving. 

Oyster Omelette. — One dozen of large oysters, chopped 
fine; six eggs, well beaten; two ounces of melted butter; 
pepper and salt to taste. 

Mix a teaspoonfnl of flour with milk enough to make 
it smooth, and beat it into melted butter; then add the 
eggs, oysters, and seasoning, beating all well together; fry 
like any other omelette, and, just before it is put into the 
pan, add a teaspoonf ul of chopped parsley in a cablespoon- 
ful of melted butter. 

Oyster Pie. — One quart of oysters ; one cup of milk ; 
two eggs, well beaten; two spoonfuls of butter; salt, pep- 
per, and nutmeg. Bake in a deep dish, in a good rich crust. 

Baltimore Oyster Pie. — Make a puff paste of one pound 
of butter, flaked into one pound of sifted flour, wet to a 
stiff dough with ice water, and rolled out on a marble slab, 
or in a very cold room. Handle it as little as possible. 
Line the sides of a deep dish, holding more than two 
quarts, with this paste. Having stripped the oysters, 
season them thoroughly with pepper, salt, and a blade or 
two of mace ; cut up six ounces of butter into little bits, 
and stir through the oysters, with half a teacupful of 
grated bread ; then strain the oyster liquor carefully, 
and put all into a dish ; cover it with paste, rolled about 
one fourth of an inch thick, with an opening in the centre ; 
cut out with a cake cutter, or jagging iron, ornamental 
bits of paste, and arrange around the edge, and above the 
opening ; bake in a hot oven, from half to three quarters 
of an hour. If the crust browns too quickly cover with 
paper. Just before the pie is done pour in a teacupful 



64 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

of cream through the aperture in the top. Two quarts of 
oysters make a good pie. 

Fricasseed Oysters. — Scald fifty oysters in their own 
juice, carefully skimming off the scum. Strain off and 
reject the juice ; put the oysters into a hot covered tureen, 
and set it aside in a warm place; rub well together six 
ounces of butter; three tablespoonfuls of flour, with as 
much scalding milk, into a fine, smooth paste; stir this 
mixture into a quart of hot milk in a stewpan on the fire ; 
season it with salt and pepper, and a very little ground 
allspice and mace ; stir it until it thickens ; then stir in 
four well-beaten yolks of eggs, taking care that the mix- 
ture is not hot enough to curdle the eggs ; pour this over 
the oysters in the baking-dish ; cover them thickly with 
fresh bread crumbs, and brown in a quick oven. 

Scalloped Oysters. — Put a layer of bread crumbs with 
butter in the bottom of a dish ; then a layer of oysters, 
and so on, alternating, until the dish is full. Use pepper, 
and, if the oysters are fresh, salt ; when the dish is full, 
add a gill of wine ; bake twenty minutes. 

Scalloped -Oysters on the Half-shell. — Fill the deep sides 
of large oyster shells with oysters and bread or cracker 
crumbs, prepared with small bits of butter, and spice and 
salt to taste ; place the shells in a pan, and bake them a 
short time in the oven. Clams, with the hard parts re- 
moved, may be treated in the same manner. 

Fried Oysters. — Use only the largest oysters for frying. 
Wipe them dry with a cloth; dip each one separately 
into beaten egg and cracker, or stale bread crumbs, or 
Indian meal; fry quickly in boiling lard. 

Oyster Salad. — Strain the juice of the oysters, and boil 
it ; when boiling, throw in the oysters, well washed, and 



FISH. 65 

let them become plump ; then drain them thoroughly 
into a colander. When perfectly cold put them into a 
salad bowl, and cover them with a rich, creamy salad 
dressing. 

Boiled Oysters. — Wash the oysters very clean; put 
them in a wire basket, and immerse the basket in a pot 
of boiling water. The moment the shells open, remove 
the basket from the water ; take off the upper shells, and 
serve them on large dishes, hot, in the lower shell. 

To Broil Oysters. — Select the largest and finest oysters. 
Dry them in a towel, and season them with pepper and 
salt ; lay them inside of a folding wire broiler ; turn 
the broiler frequently from side to side to keep the juice 
from flowing out ; have ready a very hot dish, and, as 
you place the oysters upon it, put little pieces of butter 
on them, and serve at once. 

Steamed Oysters. — Drain the oysters well, washing each 
one in the liquor to remove the pieces of shell ; put them 
in a tin plate inside of a steamer already placed over a pot 
of water that. is boiling; cover the steamer tight with its 
lid, and have the oysters in the hot steam until they puff 
up and curl. Serve on a hot covered dish, with butter, 
salt, and pepper. 

Panned Oysters. — Drain the oysters, and put them on 
the fire in a hot place, with pepper and salt. When the 
oysters are puffed, pour them into a hot dish with some 
lumps of butter. 

Griddled Oysters. — Take the largest and finest oysters ; 
dry them in a cloth ; heat the griddle as for baking cakes, 
and grease it ; have close to the fire a dish with butter, 
pepper, and salt in it ; lay the oysters on the griddle, 
they will brown almost immediately ; brown on both 



66 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

sides, and drop them in the dish with the butter ; the 
juice will soon flow and make the gravy. 

Mince Oysters.— Mince twenty-five oysters fine in their 
own liquor; stir in bread crumbs, olive-oil, salt, pepper, 
and vinegar ; put alternate layers of the mince, and soda 
cracker wet with wine, into a deep dish, and bake until 
nicely browned. 

Stewed Oysters, No. 1. — Fifty oysters; two ounces of 
butter; a small tablespoonful of flour; half a pint of 
cream; a little nutmeg; a very little mace; cayenne and 
white pepper to taste. 

Put the butter and flour into a stewpan, and stir 
well together until quite thick, but do not let them boil 
for more than a minute, then add the cream, nutmeg, 
mace, and pepper; stir hard for four or Ave minutes; 
then add fifty oysters drained from their liquor. When 
cooked, just as you take them from the fire, add the yolks 
of two eggs, well beaten. 

Stewed Oysters, No. 2. — One hundred oysters ; a little 
salt; one large blade of mace; a quarter of a pound of 
butter; a little sifted flour ; one teacupfnl of cream ; a salt- 
spoonful of cayenne. 

Drain them, and let cold water run over them through 
a colander ; when washed and drained, put them in a 
saucepan with a little salt, and a large blade of mace; 
let them stand on a cool part of the range for fifteen 
minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon; then add the 
butter and flour ; simmer five minutes ; add the cream 
and cayenne. When the oysters begin to curl they are 
cooked. 

Oyster Toast. — Make some good buttered toast, cut into 
small squares or rounds, and pour over them some oysters 
stewed in equal parts of milk and cream, and highly spiced; 



FISH. 67 

heap the oysters on the toast ; pour over the sauce, and 
serve. 

Oyster Sausages. — A quarter of a pound of chicken or 
veal, chopped fine ; three ounces of bread crumbs, rolled 
fine, and moistened with oyster juice ; one ounce of beef 
suet, chopped ; thirty oysters, chopped ; half a yolk of an 

egg- 
Season with mace, cayenne, and black pepper, mould 

into long sausages, and fry. To be served with a rich, 

brown gravy. 

Virginia Spiced Oysters. — One gallon of oysters ; liq- 
uor of the oysters strained ; one tablespoonfnl of whole 
allspice ; one saltspoonful of powdered mace ; one table- 
spoonful of whole pepper; one pint and a half of best 
vinegar. 

Boil the liquor of the oysters quickly, and skim it 
thoroughly ; then add the spices and vinegar, and allow it 
to boil again ; plunge the oysters into cold water; let them 
drain well, and then throw them into the hot spiced liquor; 
give them a quick boil, and set them away in a stone 
jar ; add salt, if the oysters are fresh ; do not cover them 
until cool. Before serving, add small angular pieces of 
lemon. 

Pickled Oysters. — As many oysters as will fill a gallon 
measure without the liquor ; wash them well in the liquor, 
removing all the shell ; strain the liquor, and cook the 
oysters in it, adding salt, if necessary ; let the oysters 
cook until the fins are well shrivelled ; then take out 
the oysters, and let them cool on large dishes ; add some 
mace and whole pepper to the liquor, carefully skimming 
off the scum ; pour it into a large pan, and, when quite 
cold, add a pint of white wine and half a pint of strong 
vinegar ; put the oysters in jars, and cover them with this 
liquor. 



68 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Oysters a la Certosa (Italian monastery). — Make four 
thin, light omelettes; do not fold them, but have ready a 
well-buttered casserole or deep disli ; sprinkle the bottom 
with bread crumbs; upon this place an* omelette, having 
the browned side uppermost ; sprinkle again with bread 
crumbs, and minced fish, prepared as indicated below; 
then another omelette sprinkled with bread crumbs, put- 
ting a layer of minced fish, as before, and so on, until the 
form is filled, taking care to cover the last layer of fish 
with a thick layer of bread crumbs ; stick small pieces of 
butter over it; then put in a quick oven, and let it remain 
until thoroughly browned ; pin a clean napkin round the 
dish, and serve. 

To prepare the fish : Cook some oysters and clams 
over a slow fire, for half an hour, seasoning with a very 
little salt, pepper, and lemon juice ; then take them from 
the fire ; drain, roll in beaten egg and bread crumbs, and 
fry them in butter,' with some minced onion and grated 
parsley. The moment they begin to brown take them 
from the fire, and proceed as indicated above. 

Fried Oysters, Delmonicd's. — Open your oysters ; wrap 
them in a dry cloth till the surface moisture is absorbed; 
sprinkle with salt and pepper; dip them in the white of 
an egg slightly beaten, then into pulverized crackers; put 
equal parts of lard and butter in a frying-pan ; heat boil- 
ing hot, and throw in your oysters ; fry, and drain on 
brown paper. Serve with quarters of lemons around the 
dish. 

Soft-shell Crabs d la Creole. — Pull off the spongy sub- 
stances from the sides ; take out the sand bags; wash well, 
wipe, dry, dip them in olive-oil, and broil quickly. Serve 
with lemon juice squeezed over them. 

Shrimp or Crab Mayonnaise (Madame Eugene). — Boil 
and peel your shrimps or crabs ; make a rich mayonnaise 



FISH. 69 

dressing, and serve over them ; garnish your dish with 
tender lettuce leaves. 

Broiled Salmon d la Creole. — Take either the tail or 
slices of salmon, cut crosswise ; prepare them nicely, and 
let them soak in olive -oil, with salt, thyme, laurel leaf, 
eschalottes, and parsley ; put the slices on the gridiron ; 
baste them with the oil in which they have steeped ; when 
done, remove the skin from the slices, arrange them on a 
dish, and serve with a white sauce with capers, or with 
sliced pickles. 

Picnic Fish (Carolina receipt). — As soon as the fish 
are taken out of the water draw them through the gills 
and wipe the inside carefully ; never scale them, or let 
them touch water; put in each fish a lump of butter, 
seasoned with salt and pepper; make a paste of mud; 
cover your fish thickly with it, and throw them in hot 
coals ; when the mud cracks the fish are done ; take them 
out of the fire ; break them open ; the scales come off and 
the bones come out, and you have a dish fit for a king. 

Sole & la Parisienne. — Clean your fish; cut off the 
heads and tails; put them in a saucepan with chopped 
parsley, sliced onions, salt, and pepper ; pour melted but- 
ter over them ; let them cook on a quick fire, and stir, to 
keep them from adhering to each other. Serve them with 
an Italian sauce, made in the following manner: 

Put in a saucepan a chopped eschalotte, some chopped 
mushrooms, parsley, and a glass of white wine ; let it sim- 
mer; add salt, pepper, and a spoonful of olive-oil; let it 
boil up, and add the quantity of bouillon you need for 
the sauce ; cook it, and add a lump of butter, and serve, 
poured over the fish. 

Roast Shad. — Take a fine fat shad ; scale it, and draw 
it through the gills ; make oblique incisions on the back, 



70 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

and let it steep in olive -oil, with parsley, thyme, escha- 
lottes, salt, and pepper ; put it on the spit, and baste it 
with the marinade in which it has steeped ; serve it on a 
napkin, in a dish garnished with green parsley, and serve 
in a sauce-boat a sauce Genevoise. 

Boiled Salmon. — Wash and wipe the fish ; wrap it in a 
clean linen cloth, kept expressly for this purpose ; baste it 
up securely, and put into the fish kettle; cover with cold 
water, in which has been melted a handful of salt ; boil 
slowly, allowing a quarter of an hour to each pound ; when 
the time is up, rip open a corner of the cloth, and test the 
salmon with a silver or wooden fork; if it penetrate easily, 
it is done ; if not, sew up the cloth quickly, and cook until 
tender, skimming the scum, as it rises. When the fish is 
done, take it instantly from the kettle, remove the cloth, 
lay for an instant on a clean cloth, until it has drained, 
transfer carefully to a very hot dish, and pour over it 
a sauce, which must be made in the following manner, 
while the salmon cooks: 

One pint of rich, fresh cream ; one half gill of the water 
in which the salmon has cooked ; a large spoonful of but- 
ter ; a pinch of salt; a little roasted powdered parsley. 
Cook a hain-marie, stirring constantly; let it boil up once, 
and when the salmon is dished pour over the sauce, reserv- 
ing a little in a sauce-boat ; garnish the salmon with curled 
lettuce and slices of hard-boiled eggs. 

.Baked Salmon. — Wash, and wipe dry, and rub with 
pepper and salt, and a soujpcon of cayenne; lay the fish on 
a buttered grating set over your baking-pan, and bake; 
basting freely, at first with butter, and lastly with its own 
drippings ; should it brown too* fast, cover the top with a 
sheet of white paper ; when done, place on a hot dish, and 
cover closely, and add to the gravy in the dripping-pan a 
glassful of sherry, a spoonful of tomato sauce, the juice of 
a lemon, and a little hot water thickened with browned 



FISH. 71 

flour. Serve in a sauce-boat. Hot mayonnaise is also 
excellent with baked salmon. 

Salmon Steaks. — Wipe, and dry well with a cloth ; 
dredge with flour, and cook on a well-buttered gridiron, 
over a clear, hot fire ; turn carefully ; when cooked, lay on 
a hot dish ; butter each steak, season with salt and pepper, 
and serve. 

Fielded Salmon. — Make a pickle of two quarts of the 
best vinegar; twelve blades of mace; twelve white pep- 
pers; one or two minced shallots; twelve cloves; two tea- 
spoonfuls of made mustard ; some small red-pepper pods ; 
three teaspoonf uls of white sugar ; three celery seeds ; 
one pint of the water in which the salmon has boiled. 

Mix, put in an earthenware jar, cover, and set away. 
The salmon must previously have been cleaned, and cut 
into pieces an inch and a half long and half an inch wide, 
and boiled in salted water ; when well boiled it should be 
drained, dried with a cloth, and set aside until the next 
day ; then put on the pickle over a brisk tire, and when it 
boils drop in the salmon very carefully; let the pickle 
boil up once again ; then set back the kettle on the range, 
fish out the salmon, and pack quickly and closely into 
glass jars ; fill with the boiling pickle until it overflows, 
screw down the top, and set in a cool, dark place. Salm- 
on so prepared will keep for years. 

Boast Sturgeon d la Creole. — Take a medium-sized stur- 
geon or slices of any large fish ; lard it well with spiced 
lard ; let it steep in white wine, with salt, pepper, and 
spices ; roast it on the spit, basting with the marinade in 
which it has steeped, and serve with a sauce piquante. 

Salmon d la Creole. — Yonng salmon are eaten, cooked 
au courtbouillon with red wine, fried, or, better still, cooked 
in a little consomme with a little champagne, to which you 



V2 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Idd some slices of lean cooked ham, a soup bunch, chopped 
fcschalottes, salt, and pepper. 

Roast Salmon a la Creole. — Clean and scale your fish ; 
lard it and cover with slices of bacon ; roast it on a spit ; 
when it is done serve it on a puree of sorrel, or a, puree of 
finely chopped ham and mushrooms. 

Smoked Salmon a la Creole. — Slice your salmon, fry it 
in oil, drain well on brown paper; squeeze lemon juice 
over it, and serve without any other preparation. 

Boiled Salmon-Trout. — Clean, wash, and dry the trout ; 
envelop in a thin cloth fitted neatly to the fish ; lay within 
the fish-kettle, cover with cold salted water, and boil gen- 
tly half an hour or longer, according to the size ; when 
done, unwrap and lay in a hot dish; pour cream sauce 
round it, and serve. , 

Cream Pickerel. — -Reserve the large pickerel — those 
over three pounds in weight — for baking, and bake exact- 
ly as you bake salmon-trout. 

Trout Broiled in Paper. — Envelop small trout, or any 
other pan fish, in strong white letter paper, well buttered ; 
pin up securely, and lay on a buttered gridiron over a clear 
fire, turning often and dexterously. 

Roekfish and River Bass. — Prepare and cook like fresh 
cod ; allowing, however, a shorter time for boiling. 

Baked Salmon- Trout. — Clean, wash, and wipe carefully, 
and lay in the baking-pan with just enough water to keep 
it from scorching; if large, score the backbone with a 
sharp knife ; bake slowly, basting often with butter and 
water. By the time it is cooked, have ready a cupful of 
cream diluted with a few spoonfuls of hot water, into 



FISH. 73 

which has been stirred two tablespoonfuls of melted but- 
ter and a little chopped parsley ; heat this a bain-marie, 
add the gravy in the dripping-pan, boil up once to thick- 
en, and, when the trout has been laid in a very hot dish, 
pour the sauce round it ; garnish with curled lettuce. 

To Cook Salmon. — Salmon should, if boiled, be boiled 
in a regular fish-kettle and in salted water. 

Or, it may be cut into steaks, and broiled on a buttered 
gridiron, over a clear fire. 

Or, baked, following the receipt for baked shad, or for 
baked salmon-trout. 

Crabbed Bockjish. — Pick cold boiled rockfish into small 
pieces; put it in a stewpan with a gill of water; add 
salt, a large spoonful of white pepper, vinegar, a lump 
of butter, and a little cayenne pepper ; shake over the fire 
until very hot. 

Barbecued Fish. — Clean the fish thoroughly, wipe it 
dry, and cut it across as if for frying ; salt it inside and 
outside, and lay it in a baking-dish ; strew over it a season- 
ing made of bread crumbs, parsley, sweet-marjoram, thyme, 
salt, pepper, and a few cloves ; add two or three table- 
spoonfuls of water, and lay on top a large lump of butter; 
bake it well, and just before serving add a teacupful of 
port wine. 

Stewed Black Fish or Sea Bass. — Clean and scale the 
fish ; fry them whole, and then remove to a stewpan ; next 
pour some water into the frying-pan in which you have 
fried the fish, and thicken it with a little flour, mixed in 
cold water. When sufficiently cooked, throw this gravy 
over the fish and let it stew; season it with cloves, mace, 
pepper, and salt, and a little green parsley, chopped fine ; 
about twenty minutes before serving it add a gill of cat- 
sup, a little stewed tomato, and a gill of port wine. 



74 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Broiled Shad. — Prepare as above, and broil on a but- 
tered gridiron over a clear fire ; rub well with butter when 
done, dust with pepper and salt, and serve. 

Baked Shad. — Prepare as above; make a rich bread 
stuffing, mixing it with egg, beaten light, pepper, salt, and 
a little mace; stuff the shad, sew it up, put in a quick 
oven', and bake it ; serve with mushroom sauce. 

Boiled Shad. — When cleaned place the roe inside of it, 
and tie the fish firmly Vith several twists of cord; roll it 
in a cloth, put in the fish-kettle, and boil twenty minutes; 
serve with egg sauce. 

Sheepshead — Is best boiled, and served with sauce Hol- 
landaise. Cold boiled sheepshead, flaked and served with 
a mayonnaise dressing, is excellent. 

Shad Planked. — This is the best way of cooking fresh 
shad. It must be beheaded, well scaled and cleaned, cut 
entirely open, and laid with the outside next the plank. 
The plank must then be put (propped up) in front of the 
fire, and the shad broiled until thoroughly cooked through. 
Meanwhile the roe must be fried in a frying-pan. When 
the shad is removed from the plank rub some butter over 
it, and add a little salt and red pepper ; serve on a hot 
dish without delay. Heavy slabs of oak, with cross fasten- 
ings of wire, may be bought in all the large cities, for 
planking shad. 

Potted Shad. — Clean the fish well, reserving the roes to 
pot with the shad ; remove the heads and tails and split 
the fish in two; cut each half of the fish crosswise into 
three pieces ; rub each piece with salt and pepper ; lay the 
fish in a layer in the bottom of a jar; scatter over it on- 
ions and a few cloves and allspice ; then add another lay- 
er of fish with onions and spice, as before, and so on until 



FISH. 75 

the jar is full ; pour strong vinegar on the fish until they 
are covered ; cover the mouth of each jar with a piece of 
muslin and tie it ; then spread on the muslin a thick dough 
made of flour and water, pressing it in at the edges to 
keep in the steam ; set the jar in the oven after the bread 
has been drawn, and let it remain five or six hours, or un- 
til the oven is cold. In cities this is best done at a bak- 
er's. The jars must be stone, as earthenware would be 
dangerous to use with vinegar. When cold take off the 
dough and cloth, and cover them with a plate. They are 
fit to eat as soon as cold. 

Soused Rovkfish or Salmon. — Use the water in which 
the fish was boiled, regulating the quantity by that of the 
fish ; put the water on the fire with salt, white pepper, all- 
spice, a few cloves, and a blade or two of mace ; let it boil 
until the flavor of the spices is extracted ; when done add 
as much vinegar as there is liquor ; let the spices remain 
in it; cut the fish into pieces, put them in a stone jar, and 
pour the liquor over hot. This is a good way of treating 
fish. Soused fish will keep some days in cool weather. 

Fricasseed Haddock. — Remove the bones, and cut the 
fish into small pieces; put them in a saucepan with the 
skin side upland without any water; sprinkle ground mace 
and salt and pepper on each layer; cover it, and cook for 
twenty minutes; then add a quarter of a pound of butter, 
rolled in flour, and one cupful of sherry wine ; let it re- 
main fifteen minutes longer on the fire. 

Haddock and Oysters. — Cut the fish in pieces, and put 
them into a saucepan with mace, pepper, and salt on each 
layer ; cover them with water, and stew gently for fifteen 
minutes; then add a quarter of a pound of butter, and 
thicken with flour ; add to this one quart of oysters, with- 
out the liquor, and, as soon as the oysters are cooked,, half 
a cupful of sherry wine, and serve. 



76 THE UNKIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Corned Shad. — Clean the fish and prepare it for cook- 
ing ; sprinkle well with salt, and set it away in a cold 
place. In the morning broil it, serving it with a little but- 
ter and red pepper. The roe must be fried. In a cool 
place a corned shad may be kept for two or three days. 

Salt shad must be soaked all night before being cooked. 

Pickled Shad. — Clean the fish and split them in two, and 
wash them in several waters until quite free from blood; 
rinse them in strong salt and water, and place them in a 
stone jar in layers, adding salt and saltpetre to each layer; 
fill the jar to three or four inches from the top, and be 
sure to have the fish quite covered with brine, putting a 
weight on them to keep them under it. 

Boiled Shrimps a la Creole. — Wash the shrimps care- 
fully, and boil them in salt and water, to which you add 
several pods of ripe red pepper ; serve for breakfast ; heap 
the shrimps in the dish and serve, surrounded by crimped 
parsley. This is a famous New Orleans dish. 

Shrimps au Gratin a la Creole. — Boil your shrimps in salt 
and water, and peel them ; put a layer of butter, chopped 
parsley, salt, and pepper in a deep dish ; then a layer of 
shrimps ; cover with powdered bread crumbs, bake, and 
serve. 

Pickled Shrimps a la Creole. — Boil and peel your 
shrimps and put them in a bottle ; pour over them the 
best vinegar and spices. In twenty-four hours they are 
ready for use. 

Stephanie's Pish d la Creole. — Scale and clean your fish; 
draw it through the gills ; put it in a fish-boiler ; cover it 
well with water ; add a glassful of vinegar, salt, and pepper, 
clove, laurel leaf, onions and carrots sliced, thyme, and 
parsley ; let it boil until the fish is done ; remove the fish- 



FISH. 77 

boiler to the back of the stove, and leave your fish in the 
eourtbouillon till you are ready to serve it. If you prefer 
you can substitute wine for vinegar, using half wine and 
half water. Fish au eourtbouillon should be served very 
hot, in a folded napkin, on a dish surrounded by bunches 
of parsley, with a highly seasoned sauce. 

Shrimps Stewed in Tomatoes. — Boil your shrimps in salt 
and water; peel and take off the heads; slice some onions 
in a saucepan, with a little lard; add sliced tomatoes, a 
little flour to thicken it; season with salt and cayenne 
pepper ; put your shrimps in this sauce ; cook a few mo- 
ments and serve. 

Fried Trout. — Clean, wash, and dry the fish ; roll light- 
ly in flour, and fry in butter or clarified dripping ; let the 
fat be very hot, fry quickly to a delicate brown, and take 
up the instant they are done ; drain for a moment on a 
folded napkin, then arrange in a very hot dish and serve. 

Fried Pickerel. — Proceed as above. 

Fried Smelts or other Pan Fish. — Clean, wash, and dry 
the fish ; lay in a large dish, salt, and dredge with flour ; 
have ready a frying-pan of hot dripping, lard, or butter; 
put in as many fish as the pan will hold without crowding, 
and fry to a light brown ; drain, and serve on a hot dish, 
garnished with fried parsley. 

Terrapins to Keep. — A supply of terrapins may be ob- 
tained in the autumn, and kept all winter, in £ barrel or 
cask, in a cellar where they are not likely to freeze. They 
need not be fed, although they will be fatter, and conse- 
quently better, if you throw the kitchen waste into the 
barrel. As they become torpid in winter, examine them 
carefully from time to time to see if they are alive. Be- 
fore cooking them, put them into very strong salt and wa- 
ter for twentv-four hours. 



78 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Maryland Receipt for Cooking Terrapins. — Plunge the 
terrapins alive into boiling water, and let them remain un- 
til the sides and lower shell begin to crack — this will take 
less than an hour; then remove them and let them get 
cold ; take off the shell and outer skin, being careful to 
save all the blood possible in opening them. If there are 
eggs in them put them aside in a dish ; take all the inside 
out, and be very careful not to break the gall, which must 
be immediately removed, or it will make the rest bitter. 
It lies within the liver. , Then cut up the liver and all the 
rest of the terrapin into small pieces, adding the blood and 
juice that have flowed out in cutting up; add half a pint 
of water ; sprinkle a little flour over them as you place 
them in the stewpan ; let them stew slowly ten minutes, 
adding salt, black and cayenne pepper, and a very small 
blade of mace; then add a gill of the best brandy and half 
a pint of the best sherry wine; let it simmer over a slow 
lire very gently. About ten minutes or so, before you 
are ready to dish them, add half a pint of rich cream, 
and half a pound of sweet butter, with flour, to prevent 
oiling; two or three minutes before taking them off the 
fire, peel the eggs carefully and throw them in whole. If 
there should be no eggs use the yolk of hen's eggs, hard 
boiled. This receipt is for four terrapins. 

Philadelphia Receipt for Cooking Terrapins.- — Plunge 
the terrapins alive into boiling water; when dead take off 
the outside skin from the shells, and the nails from the 
claws; wash them in warm water, and boil them until 
they are quite tender and soft ; throw a handful of salt in 
the water; when they are ready to be taken out take off 
the shells and pick them carefully, removing the sand-bag 
and gall without breaking them ; cut the meat and entrails 
into small pieces; place them in a porcelain-lined saucepan, 
adding the juice which has flowed in cutting them, but no 
water; season them with salt, cayenne and black pepper. 
To each terrapin allow a quarter of a pound of butter, 



FISH. 79 

mixed well with a handful of flour for thickening ; after 
stewing for a short time add four or five tablespoonf uls of 
cream, and half a pint of good Madeira wine to four ter- 
rapins. The yolks of two boiled eggs and one raw one 
may be added before serving. 

Stewed Terrapins^ Eastern Shore. — Boil your terrapins 
until the shells become loose ; then take them off, careful- 
ly saving the liquor ; scrape the black skin off the meat, 
remove the gall, clean and chop up the entrails careful ly, 
put them in a saucepan with the meat and liquor, pour in 
enough olive-oil to fry them well, season with salt and 
pepper (black and cayenne), and add the yolks of the tur- 
tle eggs; when well warmed through, and just before 
serving, pour in a teacupful of sherry or Madeira, and 
serve hot. 

Spanish Sauce for Fried Fish. — Pound a clove of gar- 
lic and two red-pepper pods which you have softened in 
hot water ; thin it with a little water, pour it in a sauce- 
pan with some hot olive-oil, vinegar, and salt ; fry your 
fish in this sauce. 

A Substitute for Terrapirfs Eggs. — Beat the yolks of 
three hard-boiled eggs in a mortar, and make them into a 
paste with one raw yolk ; roll into balls, and throw them 
into boiling water to harden. These are excellent if the 
terrapin eggs are deficient. 

A Delaware Receipt for Cooking Terrapins. — One doz- 
en of medium-sized terrapins; three quarters of a pound 
of butter; one tablespoonf nl of flour; one tablespoonful 
of mustard ; one teaspoonf ul of salt ; half a pint of good 
wine; yolks of six hard-boiled eggs; one teaspoonful of 
the best brandy ; one saltspoonf ul of cayenne. 

Plunge the terrapins alive into boiling water; at the 
end of half an hour begin to examine them; some will 



80 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

take half an hour, some an hour and a quarter, to boil ten- 
der. While hot remove the skin, nails, head, gall-blad- 
der, and sand-bags ; open each terrapin carefully over a 
bowl to save the grav} T ; chop the terrapins fine, and put 
one half of the livers with the meat into a deep bowl; 
cover it with wine and let it stand two or three hours ; rub 
the other half of the livers, the six eggs, and the butter 
well together until smooth ; add the flour, mustard, and 
cayenne. The meat steeped in wine should be first put 
into the stewpan, the dressing added, and be stirred con- 
stantly. They should only come to a boil to scald the 
flour, and be served at once very hot ; they should not be 
left for a moment. The quantities required of mustard 
and cayenne entirely depend on the strength of the ma- 
terial furnished, and the cook should be discreet in the 
use of them. The quantity of salt varies with the quan- 
tity of meat turned out from the terrapin. 

Those who prefer the smaller ones get a large one for 
the eggs, as they are considered a delicacy ; but no epicure 
would ever prefer the larger meat. The larger terrapins 
may be boned, and the meat very carefully stewed up. 

There is a red-legged terrapin in the market, the eggs 
of which are very delicate, and by many considered supe- 
rior to the eggs of the diamond back. 

For an invalid, terrapins stewed in cream, with salt and 
pepper, are very nourishing. 

Fried Fillets of Whitings with Truffles. — Cut fillets of 
whitings the same size, fry them in butter, sprinkle with 
fine salt, drain on brown paper, squeeze lemon juice over 
them, slice some truffles in the frying-pan, add a little but- 
ter, and dress them in alternate slices on a dish garnished 
with fried croutons of bread. 

Broiled Whitings. — Prepare your fish ; sprinkle with 
salt and pepper; steep them in olive-oil; when you are 
ready to serve them place them on the griddle ; let them 



FISH. 81 

cook slowly, turning them ; when done pom* over them 
either a white sauce with capers or capucines, or a tomato 
sauce; garnish the dish with slices of lemon or pickles 
cut in slices. 

Sole a la Normandie. — Put a lump of fresh butter as 
large as an egg in a dish you can place on the fire ; add 
slices of onions cut very thin, parsley, salt, and pepper; 
lay your fish in this ; pour over half a bottle of the best 
cider, two dozen oysters, one dozen muscles well trimmed, 
shrimps, and slices of truffles; cook on a gentle fire, bast- 
ing the fish from time to time with the sauce ; when it is 
cooked place the fish on a dish, and pour over the sauce. 

Fish Cooked with Macaroni. — Throw your macaroni 
in boiling water; when it swells and is nearly done take 
it out, and throw it in cold water and drain well ; cook 
your fish in the same water, take it off the fire, scale it, 
and cut it in slices; remove all the bones; put some but- 
ter and grated cheese in a deep dish, then put in a layer 
of fish, then one of cheese and macaroni, and continue till 
you place four alternate layers; put it in the stove till it 
cooks; brown it with a salamander. 

Fried Whitings (Greenwich Receipt). — Scale, wash, and 
draw your fish, leaving in the livers; cut off the fins and 
tails ; make oblique incisions on both sides of the fish ; 
sprinkle with flour and throw them in boiling lard ; when 
they are a good color take them out, drain them on brown 
paper, sprinkle them with a little fine salt, and serve on a 
napkin ; garnish your dish with fried parsley. 

Stewed Rockfish. — Rub the fish well with butter to 
keep the skin from breaking ; brown three or four onions 
in slices and spread them on the bottom of the fish-kettle ; 
place the fish upon the onions, with pepper and salt ; pour 
over it about three pints of water, and let it simmer very 



82 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

slowly ; just before serving add a wineglassful of wine, 
and the same of mushroom catsup. 

Desirie\s Courtboalllon for Fish. — Three green onions 
sliced and fried with three cloves of garlic ; half a bottle of 
claret; one tablespoonful of the finest white flour; half a 
bottle of beef tea; five whole tomatoes; some fresh fish, 
cut in slices. 

When the onions and garlic are done put in the other 
ingredients, the fish and tomatoes last of all; season it to 
taste, and let it simmer until done. 

Salt Fish and Potatoes. — One pound of salt fish ; three 
and a half pounds of potatoes, peeled ; one and a half 
ounces of dripping; one onion, chopped fine; one bunch 
of parsley ; white pepper, salt, mustard, and vinegar to 
taste. 

Chop it fine, and put it in the saucepan with a little 
fresh water ; let it come to a boil as slowly as possible ; 
boil and mash the potatoes, and put a layer of potatoes in 
the bottom of a dish, with a little dripping; put in the 
fish and a layer of chopped parsley and onion ; add mus- 
tard, pepper, and vinegar, then another layer of potatoes, 
then another of fish, etc., until the dish is full; cover all 
with potatoes and a little dripping; bake in a quiet oven 
for half an hour. 

Fish au Gratin. — Take a long, flat dish which you can 
put on the fire ; put a layer of onions cut in round slices 
in the bottom, and another layer of sliced tomatoes ; enough 
olive-oil to prevent burning; season well with salt and 
pepper (red is preferable) ; clean and scale your fish, stuff 
it with a stuffing made of sausage-meat (without sage or 
spices), chopped oysters, chopped mushrooms, the yolk of 
an egg, bread crumbs, pepper, and salt well mixed togeth- 
er ; lay your fish in the baking-dish, put a large lump of 
butter on it, and put it in the oven ; moisten it from time 



FISH. 83 

to time with the sauce ; when nearly done pour over a 
generous supply of white wine, and sprinkle with bread 
crumbs ; pour a little of the sauce over the bread crumbs 
before serving ; garnish your dish with sprigs of parsley 
and lemon cut in quarters. 

Mackerel or Pompano should be boiled and served with 
maitre d'hdtel sauce, which is made by mixing chopped 
parsley, salt, and pepper with butter, and adding the juice 
of a lemon. 

Oyster Toast. — Beard the oysters ; chop them up with 
anchovies (removing the bones); pepper and a little salt, 
mix with butter ; fry them five minutes ; spread the paste 
on slices of toasted bread ; pour over the juice which is 
left ; serve hot, for breakfast or lunch. 

Boston Codfish Balls ("Boston Cook-book"). — One cup 
of raw salt fish; one pint of potatoes; one teaspoonful 
of butter; one egg, well beaten; one quarter of a salt- 
spoonful of pepper ; salt, if needed. 

Wash and bone the fish, and pick in half-inch pieces ; 
pare the potatoes, and cut in quarters ; put potatoes and 
fish in the stewpan, and boil twenty-five minutes, or until 
the potatoes are soft, but be careful not to let them boil 
long enough to become soggy ; drain off all the water, 
mash and beat the fish and potatoes until very light, add 
the butter and pepper, and when slightly cooled add the 
egg, and more salt if necessary ; shape quickly into cakes, 
slip off into a basket, and fry in smoking hot lard one min- 
ute ; fry only five at a time, as more will cool the fat ; the 
lard should be hot enough to brown a piece of bread while 
you count forty ; drain on soft paper. These balls should 
be mixed while the potatoes and fish are hot. If you wash 
to prepare them the night before, omit the egg, and in the 
morning warm the fish and potatoes in a double boiler, 
and then add the egg ; keep the fish in a bowl of cold wa- 



84 THE UNKIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

ter while picking it apart, and it will need no further 
soaking. 

Never chop salt fish ; pick apart into small pieces, and 
rub with a potato masher until it is reduced to fine threads. 

Boston Fish Hash ("Boston Cook-book"). — Prepare as 
above, cook in a little salt-pork fat in a frying-pan until 
brown, and then turn out like an omelet. 

Boston Fish Souffle. — Prepare as above, add two table- 
spoonfuls of cream and two eggs, cream and eggs well 
beaten, and beaten separately ; bake in a buttered dish. 



MEATS. 

BEEF. 

BOASTING MEATS (SOYEB). 

As an invariable rule, all dark meats — sncli as beef and 
mutton — should be put down before a sharp fire for at 
least fifteen minutes, until the outside has a coating of 
gravy; then remove it back, and cook it gently. Lamb, 
veal, and pork should be cooked at a moderate tire. Yeal 
should be covered with paper. Very rich meat, if covered 
with paper, does not require basting. Roast meats should 
be dredged with flour just at the time the gravy begins 
to appear. 

TIME-TABLE FOB BOASTING. 

Ten pounds of beef require from two hours to two and 
a half roasting before a good fire, but at eighteen inches 
distant. Six pounds one hour and a quarter to one hour 
and a half, fourteen inches from a good fire. 

Three ribs of beef, boned and rolled, well tied round 
with paper, will take two hours and a half, eighteen inch- 
es from a good fire, and only baste once. 

If beef is very fat it does not require basting ; if very 
lean, tie it up in greasy paper and baste well. 

Eight pounds of veal will take from one hour and a half 
to two hours, eighteen inches from the fire ; if stuffed, at 
least two hours. 

Chump, or loin and kidneys, of four pounds, will take 
one hour and a quarter; baste well. 

Six pounds of breast one hour, twelve inches from the 
fire. 

Six pounds of shoulder and neck the same. 



86 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Calf's heart, stuffed and tied up in paper, three quarters 
of an hour. 

Mutton leg, eight pounds, one hour and a half, eighteen 
inches from the lire. 

Saddle of mutton, ten pounds, one hour and a quarter 
to one hour and a half, eighteen inches from the lire, meas- 
uring from the flat surface. 

Shoulder, one hour and a half. Loin, one hour and a 
half. Breast, three quarters of an hour. 

Lamb, according to size, in the same proportion as mut- 
ton ; but it ought always to be well done, and should 
roast at about fifteen inches from the fire. 

Pork should be well done always. It is best to rub it 
well with salt the night previous, and scrape it off before 
roasting. 

In roasting beef, mutton, lamb, pork, and poultry, a 
dripping-pan should be placed under the meat, with a lit- 
tle clear dripping or fat, which should be very hot when 
the meat is basted. A quarter of an hour before serving 
add half a pint of water to the fat in the dripping-pan ; 
dredge the meat with flour and salt. When the meat is 
cooked, strain the gravy in the dripping-pan through a 
gauze strainer, remove the fat, add a little coloring, and 
serve. 

Veal and poultry should have half the water put into 
the pan, and that, when strained, added to half a pint of 
thick, melted butter; color as above directed. 



Roast Beef on the Spit. — The best pieces for roasting 
are the sirloin and rib pieces. It is best to make the 
butcher remove as much bone as possible. Skewer the 
meat into shape and pass it on the spit; place a dripping- 
pan underneath, and baste the beef at first with butter, 
afterwards with its own drippings. The fire should be 
clear, steady, and not too fierce; allow a quarter of an 
hour to a pound if you like th&beef rare ; serve on a heat- 
ed dish, pouring over it the liquor in the dripping-pan, 



MEATS— BEEF. 87 

and garnish with a wreath of water-cresses or fresh pars- 
ley. Roast beef should always be accompanied by mus- 
tard and scraped horseradish. There are three different 
ways of preparing this. It may be served dry, or steeped 
in vinegar, or steeped in cream. The latter is most in use 
in Italy, and is very good. 

Baked Beef (ox beef roasted in the oven). — Put the beef 
to roast in a deep pan, and before putting it down dash a 
cup of boiling water over it to prevent the escape of the 
juices. If very fat, cover with a paste of flour and water 
until nearly done; baste frequently — at first with salt and 
water, afterwards with its own drippings ; when almost 
done dredge with a little browned flour, and baste once 
with butter; allow a quarter of an hour to a pound for 
rare beef, more if you like the beef well done ; serve on a 
very hot dish, and garnish as above. 

Yorkshire Pudding, No. 1. — One pint of milk ; four 
eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately ; two cups of flour ; 
one teaspoonful of salt. 

This pudding should be mixed three quarters of an hour 
before the beef is done, and poured into the dripping-pan, 
which should contain just fat enough to prevent the pud- 
ding from sticking; it should cook under the meat; when 
both are cooked the pudding should be cut into squares, 
and placed in the same dish with the beef. 

Yorkshire Pudding, No. 2. — Four tablespoonfuls of 
Hecker's farina ; one pint of milk ; four eggs, whites and 
yolks beaten separately. 

Mix and pour into the dripping-pan as above. This is 
much better than the ordinary Yorkshire pudding. 

Yorkshire Pudding, No. 3. — Four tablespoonfuls of 
Hecker's farina ; one pint of milk. 

Boil and allow to cool ; when cold and hard put into a 



88 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

dish under the beef; do this just long enough to allow it 
to get thoroughly browned and heated through. This is 
the simplest and best of all. 

Stewed Beefsteak. — Fry a tender steak lightly, with on- 
ions, turnips, and carrots ; then stew slowly, as for rump 
of beef. 

Stewed Bump of Beef — Wash it well, and season high 
with salt, allspice, black and cayenne pepper, three cloves, 
and a blade of mace, all in fine powder ; bind tightly, and lay 
in a pot that will just hold it, with three large onions sliced 
and fried, three carrots, two turnips, a shallot, four cloves, 
a blade of mace, and some celery ; add, also, a handful of 
sweet herbs, regulating the quantity of each according to 
their pungency. The herbs used should be parsley, thyme, 
basil, knotted marjoram, and chives. Cover the beef with 
good beef broth, putting in some bones if you have them ; 
simmer as slowly and gently as possible for several hours, 
until quite tender ; clear off the fat, add to the gravy half 
a pint of port wine, a glass of vinegar, a tablespoonful of 
mushroom catsup, a pinch of burned sugar ; now simmer 
for half an hour longer, and serve in a deep dish ; garnish 
with tiny heaps of different vegetables, herbs, mushrooms, 
beet root, pickles, etc. ; all cut small and arranged in a 
tasteful manner; pour the gravy over the beef and serve. 

Beef Collops. — Take some beef that is tender and free 
from skin, cut into small, thin pieces, and hack it with a 
knife ; then butter a stewpan, and put in as much beef 
as will cover the pan, with a soupgon of onion, some cu- 
cumber cut small, and salt and pepper; put it over the 
fire and toss constantly ; two or three minutes will do 
them ; add a little browned flour, butter, and water to the 
gravy. 

Beef Bobart. — Take the inside of a sirloin of beef; cut 



MEATS— BEEF. 89 

it very thin, and fry a moment in butter; stew with good 
stock, chopped shallot, anchovy essence, mushrooms, and 
oysters ; thicken the gravy as above. 

Old Humphrey's a la mode Beef (in use for nearly two 
centuries in the same family). — A fine round of beef, 
weighing ten or fifteen pounds; prepare the day before 
cooking as follows : Make a rich stuffing of rolled bread 
crumbs, salt pork chopped line, two large onions peeled 
and chopped, some ground cloves, half a dessertspoonful 
of allspice, some salt and pepper, some sweet marjoram 
and other herbs, chopped fine ; mix all thoroughly with 
the hand ; then make perpendicular incisions with a sharp 
knife through the meat. These incisions should be an inch 
wide, and should be filled with the stuffing and strips of 
lean pork half an inch square. Then tie round the edges 
of the beef with a strong cord; tie as tightly as possible 
so as to leave the beef a perfect round ; cover the top 
of the round with the stuffing, which should lie an inch 
thick on the top ; cover the beef with a large porcelain 
dish cover, and leave it thus all night. In the morning 
put the beef into a baking-kettle, or, if you have not a 
baking-kettle, into a large pot with legs, and put it on the 
stove or range ; after } r ou have laid four pieces of hard 
wood like this ^ to keep the meat from burning, add 
one pint — not more — of water, and then put on your 
meat; cook it over a slow fire, adding more water as it 
becomes absorbed. The beef should cook six or eight 
hours at least (ten or twelve hours is not too much for 
a piece of beef weighing over fifteen pounds). After 
the beef has cooked three hours, put in three large pota- 
toes sliced, and as many turnips and carrots, also sliced ; 
two hours before serving throw in a tumblerful of cur- 
rant jelly, which, added to the gravy already in the pot, 
will make a delicious gravy; when the beef is cooked, re- 
move it to a hot dish, take off the cord, and arrange the 
vegetables round it; strain the liquor left in the pot, add 



90 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

some browned flour, boil up once, and pour over and round 
the d la mode; garnish with slices of lemon and water- 
cress. This beef is also delicious cold. 

Spiced Beef. — Twenty to twenty-five pounds of round of 
beef; half a pound of coarse brown sugar; two ounces of 
saltpetre; three quarters of a pound of common salt ; a 
quarter of a pound of black pepper; three ounces of all- 
spice ; four ounces of bruised juniper berries. 

Rub the beef well, in every part, with the coarse brown 
sugar and let it remain two days; then reduce to powder 
all the other ingredients, and blend .them thoroughly and 
smoothly together; when this is done rub the ingredients 
strongly and equally over the meat, turning it at the same 
time so as not to permit even the tenth part of an inch to 
miss the rubbing. Repeat this daily for three weeks, al- 
ways turning, of course ; then wash off the spice, and put 
the beef into an earthen pan as nearly of its size as possi- 
ble ; pour into the pan a cupful of good strong stock ; cov- 
er the beef thickly with chopped beef suet, and lay a coarse, 
thick crust over the pan ; then put on the cover and bake 
the meat from five to six hours in a moderate oven, which 
should not, however, be sufficiently fierce to harden the 
meat. If properly managed spiced beef is exceedingly 
tender ; it should be allowed to cool in the pan in which 
it was baked ; when quite cold, remove it from the pan 
and scrape off the suet ; garnish it with crimped parsley 
and water-cresses. It is to be served cold. 

Hunters Beef, Gloucestershire. — Twenty-five pounds of 
a fine, fat round of beef; take out the bone and rub the 
beef daily for two weeks with the following mixture: 
Three ounces of saltpetre ; one ounce of ground cloves; 
half an ounce of allspice ; one large nutmeg, grated ; one 
quart of salt ; two ounces of brown sugar. 

Mix all the ingredients thoroughly and smoothly to- 
gether and pound them to a fine powder; place a layer of 



MEATS— BEEF. 91 

this powder in the bottom of the tub in which you put 
the beef, and after the beef has been well rubbed cover it 
with the powder. Be careful to turn the beef daily when 
you rub it, and to rub it hard and evenly. At the end of 
two weeks wash the beef carefully in vinegar ; fill the 
place from which the bone has been taken with fat; stick 
some cloves in the fat ; bind the beef with tape to keep it 
in a compact, round shape, and lay it in a pan which fits it 
exactly ; cover it with a thick layer of beef suet, and pour 
over it a pint of fresh water, in which you have mixed a 
wineglassful of port wine ; cover the pan with a thick pa- 
per, buttered, and again with a closely fitting cover; bake 
five hours over a clear, steady, but not too fierce, fire ; al- 
low the beef to cool in the pan ; when quite cold uncover 
the pan, take out the beef, unbind it, and scrape off the 
suet; serve cold. 

Corned Beef.— Rub the beef well with salt, mixed with 
one tenth part of saltpetre, until the salt lies dry upon the 
surface ; put aside in a cold place for twenty-four hours 
and repeat the process, rubbing in the mixture very thor- 
oughly ; put away until the next day, when the pickle 
should be ready: Five gallons of water; one gallon of 
salt; four ounces of saltpetre; one and a half pounds of 
brown sugar. 

Boil this pickle ten minutes; when peifectly cold, pour 
over the beef, having previous^ wiped the latter dry ; 
examine the pickle from time to time to see if it keeps 
well ; if not, take the meat out at once, wipe it, and 
cover with salt until you can prepare new and stronger 
brine. 

Russian Beef Balls. — For these balls equal quantities 
of the best rump steak and fillet are required. The meat 
must be entirely freed from skin and fat, and chopped 
so finely that it can be passed through a sieve ; all the 
blood must be preserved and mixed with the minced 



9 2 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

meat, which must be very slightly salted. Meanwhile cut 
another fillet into thick strips, and squeeze the juice 
into a saucepan; form the mince into balls, binding it, 
if necessary, with beaten egg, but leaving a hollow in 
the centre of each ball ; the saucepan with the beef juice 
must then be put for a moment or two on the fire, un- 
til the juice thickens, when the saucepan should be re- 
moved from the fire, and the juice poured into the balls, 
i, e., in the hollow in the middle ; then close and re- 
form the balls, dip them in beaten white of egg, and 
in bread crumbs ; fry them rapidly in beef lard (the 
whole process must be brief) until they are of a deli- 
cate brown color ; then drain in a wire basket, and serve 
in a very hot dish. If properly made and cooked they 
are rare inside, and have the flavor of the best roast 
beef. Plain boiled potatoes, light and floury, should be 
served with them. 

Stewed Fillet of Beef with Raisins. — Take four pounds 
of fillet, wipe clean, and put into a porcelain-lined casse- 
role with two ounces of good butter, and a sufficient quan- 
tity of finely chopped celery, carrots, onions, and ham to 
form a layer over and under the beef. This mince should 
previously have been fried in butter to a light brown. 
Cover the casserole closely, and stew over a slow fire for 
three quarters of an hour ; then remove from the fire for 
a moment, and strain the mince; return the fillet and 
strained sauce to the casserole, adding a teacupful of 
strong beef tea, or stock, and a double handful of the best 
Sultana raisins, seeded ; cover the casserole closely, and 
stew for an hour and a quarter; serve on a hot dish, and 
pour over the fillet the sauce and raisins with which it 
has been cooked. This quantity of fillet is enough for six 
people. 

Stewed Fillet of Beef with Mushrooms. — Take six 
pounds of fillet of beef, wipe clean, and put into a porce- 



MEATS— BEEF. 93 

Iain-lined saucepan with a mince prepared in the follow- 
ing manner: Take equal quantities of dried mushrooms, 
fresh shallots, celery, and uncooked ham ; chop very fine, 
and fry to a light brown in butter; put a thick layer of 
this mince under and over the fillet, add two and a half 
ounces of butter, and stew over a slow fire for an hour; 
then strain the mince, return the fillet and sauce to the 
fire, adding a large teacupful of strong beef tea or stock, 
a wineglassful of sherry, and a double handful of button 
mushrooms, properly washed, wiped, and scraped ; cover 
the casserole closely, and stew for an hour and a quarter 
longer ; serve on a hot dish, and pour over it the sauce 
and mushrooms with which it has been cooked. 

Beefsteak Broiled. — Cut the steak three quarters of an 
inch thick, wipe carefully with a clean cloth, lay on the 
meat board, and pound with a steak mallet ; wipe again 
carefully, and lay on a buttered gridiron over a clear fire, 
turning it very often when it begins to drip, and with- 
drawing the gridiron from the fire a moment should the 
fat drop on the coals and blaze. The steak ought to cook 
in twelve minutes if the fire be good ; then lay on a very 
hot dish which has previously been rubbed with garlic, 
salt, and pepper on both sides, and lay a liberal lump 
of butter on the upper; then cover, and let it stand five 
minutes in a hot place to draw out the juices ; dust lightly 
with roasted powdered parsley before sending it to table. 

If the proper sort of gridiron be not attainable, rub 
lightly a clean, hot frying-pan with a rag dipped in butter, 
put in the meat, set over a clear, fierce fire, aud turn fre- 
quently. The best pieces for steak are the porter-house, 
sirloin, and rump. In some respects the rump steaks are 
the best of all. 

Beefsteak and Onions. — Prepare the steak as above di- 
rected ; while broiling, put three or four chopped onions 
in the frying-pan with a little beef dripping or butter ; 



94 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

stir them quickly until they are delicately browned ; when 
the steak is dished cover it with the onions, then cover 
the dish and let it stand eight minutes. 

Beefsteak Pie. — Cut the steak into pieces an inch long, 
and stew, with the bone, in enough water to cover it until 
the meat is half done ; in another pot parboil twelve good 
potatoes. Take a deep pudding dish, and put in a layer 
of the beef with salt, pepper, and a little chopped onion, 
then one of sliced potatoes, with little bits of butter dot- 
ted over them ; proceed in this manner until the dish is 
full ; pour over all the gravy in which the meat has stewed, 
having first thrown away the bone and thickened with 
browned flour ; cover with a thick crust, leaving a slit in 
the middle ; brush with beaten white of egg and bake. 

Crust for Meat Pies. — One quart of fine white flour, 
sifted ; three tablespoonfuls of lard ; two and a half cups 
of milk ; one teaspoonful of soda wet with hot water, and 
stirred into the milk ; two teaspoonf uls of cream of tartar, 
sifted into the dry flour; one teaspoonful of salt. 

Work up very lightly and quickly, and do not let it get 
too stiff. 

Beef Pie, Potato Crust. — -Mince some cold roast or 
corned beef, season, and spread a layer in the bottom of a 
deep pudding dish ; then a layer of mashed potato stuck 
over with bits of butter, then meat again, and so on until 
the dish is full ; pour over all a gravy made of dripping, 
milk, butter, and a little tomato catsup, and cover all with 
a thick crust made as follows : One large cupful of mashed 
potato ; two tablespoonfuls of melted butter ; a well-beaten 
egg ; two cups of milk. 

Beat all together until very light, and add enough flour 
to enable you to roll it out ; cover the pudding dish with 
this crust, cutting a slit in the middle; brush over with 
beaten white of egg and bake. 



MEATS— BEEF. 95 

Beef Hash. — Two parts of cold roast beef, freed from 
fat and chopped fine ; one part of cold potatoes, chopped 
fine ; a little pepper, salt, milk, and melted butter. 

Turn into a frying-pan and stir until it is heated through, 
but not brown ; put into a deep dish and form into a hil- 
lock, 

Or, cease stirring for a few minutes, and let a brown 
crust form ; then serve in a round dish, with the crust up- 
permost. 

The hash may also be served on small squares of toast. 

Corned Beef Hash is made in precisely the same way, 
never allowing, however, a crust to form ; serve with 
poached eggs on top. 

Rolled Beef. — Take some lean, raw beef, free from fat 
and skin, and pound in a mortar until you can pass it 
through a sieve; mix with it half the quantity of stale 
bread crumb moistened with water to a paste, also some 
fat pork cut into small dice ; season with a chopped shal- 
lot, a little grated lemon peel, the tiniest pinch of sugar, 
and salt and pepper to taste ; bind with beaten egg and 
roll in bread crumbs; then envelop it in cabbage leaves, 
bind it with string into a firm roll, and bake. It should 
be eaten cold. 

Irish Stew. — Put some slices of lean beef in a stewpan, 
with a good deal of water, or, better still, thin stock, two 
large onions thinly sliced, a stick of celery chopped fine, 
some cold boiled potatoes (whole), and a. little salt and 
pepper ; stew gently until the potatoes are quite soft and 
have taken up nearly all the gravy; 

- Tomato and Beef Stew. — Put some large trophy toma- 
toes — peeled, cored, and sliced thinly — into a stewpan with 
some raw beef, prepared in the following manner : Take 
some lean beef — rump steak is best — free from skin and 



96 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

fat, and pound it so finely that it can be passed through a 
sieve ; spread each slice of tomato nearly an inch thick 
with this, salting it very slightly ; then put another layer 
of tomatoes and beef, and so on until the stewpan is near- 
ly full ; pour in all the blood from the steak, and enough 
stock to moisten all ; sprinkle the top layer with browned 
bread crumbs, also moistened slightly with stock; stick 
bits of fresh butter over this layer, and, covering the stew- 
pan, let all stew together slowly until it becomes very soft ; 
then stir thoroughly, add a tablespoonful of white sugar, 
and serve in a very hot dish, rubbed with garlic. 

Breakfast Stew of Beef (" Common-Sense in the House- 
hold"). — Cut up two pounds of beef — not too lean — into 
pieces an inch long; put them into a saucepan with just 
enough water to cover them, and stew gently for two 
hours ; set away until next morning, when season with 
pepper, salt, sweet marjoram or summer savory, chopped 
onion, and parsley ; stew half an hour longer, and add a 
teaspoonful of sauce or catsup, and a tablespoonful of 
browned flour moistened with cold water; Anally, half a glass 
of wine ; boil up once, and pour into a covered deep dish. 

Beef's Heart. — Wash the heart well, and cut into squares 
half an inch long; stew them for ten minutes in enough 
water to cover them ; salt the water slightly, and skim the 
scum as it rises; take out the meat, strain the liquor, and 
return the chopped heart to it, with a sliced onion, a large 
spoonful of tomato catsup, some parsley, a head of celery 
chopped fine, and cayenne pepper, with a large lump of 
butter; stew until the meat is very tender, thicken with a 
tablespoonful of browned flour, boil up once, and serve. 

Dried Smoked Beef and Eggs.— Shave the beef into 
thin strips, and put into a pan with enough boiling water 
to cover them; set them over the fire for ten minutes, 
then drain off the water and cut the beef into very small 



MEATS— BEEF. 97 

pieces ; have ready some well-beaten eggs, allowing four 
to half a pound of beef ; stir them into a pan with the 
minced meat, and toss and stir the mixture about for two 
minutes ; send to table in a covered dish. 

Grated Beef . — Cut a thick lump of smoked beef and 
dry it in the oven until perfectly hard ; then grate to fine 
powder, and serve with thin slices of bread-and-butter, or 
with hot buttered wafers. 

Beef Tongue. — Wash thoroughly, and soak over-night 
in cold water. The next morning put it into a pot with 
plenty of cold water, and boil slowly until — on testing it 
with a fork — you find it tender throughout ; when cold 
pare off the thick skin, garnish with parsley, and cut in 
slices. 

Or, you can serve it hot with a dolce forte sauce. 

Tongue is very good in the latter way. 

Persellade of Bouilli. — Put some drippings of roast 
meat, or some butter, in a silver or earthen dish that you 
can put on the fire; chop some mushrooms and parsley 
very fine and put a layer in the bottom of your dish ; cov- 
er this with a layer of dried bread crumbs, and lay in your 
slices of bouilli ; repeat this till you use all the bouilli ; 
moisten it well with bouillon, and from time to time add 
more bouillon ; season with salt and pepper ; let it simmer 
three quarters of an hour, skim off the grease, and serve 
with a garnish of small potatoes fried in butter. 

Bouilli en Quenelles. — Chop your bouilli very fine, witli 
some roasted Irish potatoes; add some butter, salt, and 
pepper; bind it with some beaten eggs; knead it all well 
together, make it into little balls which you fry in butter, 
and serve with a sauce joiquante. 

Poor-Man '«§ Stew. — Slice your soup meat and put it on 

5 



98 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

a platter; sprinkle with salt and pepper, chopped parsley, 
and chives, and a clove of garlic mashed fine ; add a little 
lard, a glass of stock, and a few bread crumbs; let it sim- 
mer on the hot ashes till done, and serve. 

Rib Piece with Mushrooms. — -Take out the bones, trim 
away any superfluous fat and tendons ; put your entrecote 
(rib piece) in a saucepan with a piece of butter as large as 
an egg ; let it cook on both sides, and take it out ; put in the 
same saucepan a spoonful of flour ; let it brown ; moisten 
with warm water ; add a glassful of brandy, salt and pepper ; 
put your entrecote back in the saucepan ; cook it three or 
four hours, add some mushrooms, and finish cooking; five 
minutes before serving add some olives which you have 
stoned. 

Fricasseed Tripe. — Cut it into little squares ; put some 
butter in a saucepan with a spoonful of flour; add a 
glassful of bouillon ; cook your tripe in this ten minutes ; 
stir in (taking the saucepan off the fire) the yolks of two 
eggs, a little butter, salt, and pepper, and a little lemon 
juice. 

Fried Tripe. — Cut the tripe in strips two inches long; 
dip them in melted butter seasoned with salt and pepper, 
then into pounded bread crumbs, fry them a golden brown, 
and arrange them in a crown on a dish with sauce Tartar, 
or sauce Robert. 

Bouilli. — This is soup meat. You take it out of your 
soup-pot and serve as an entree. You can serve it with 
any sauce. Tomato is excellent, or sauce piquante made 
of chopped pickles, mustard, and oil. 

Beef Tongue (Guillaume's. receipt). — Scald a beefs 
tongue and take off the outer skin ; boil the tongue in salt- 
ed water till done ; drain well, and when thoroughly cold 



MEATS— BEEF. 99 

cut it in slices, dress it on a dish, and cover with a mayon- 
naise sauce. This, when well dressed, cannot be distin- 
guished from fish. 

Beef Tongue, Sauce Piquante. — Scald a beef's tongue, 
and take off the outer skin ; boil the tongue in salted wa- 
ter; split it lengthwise, and pour over it a sauce piquante. 

Tongue Smothered in Mushrooms. — Blanch your tongue 
in boiling water, skin it, and trim it ; lard it with strips of 
bacon ; put in a saucepan slices of salted fat pork with the 
skin on it, pepper, parsley, thyme, a laurel leaf, a clove, on- 
ions, and carrots ; place your tongue on this, add a glassful 
of white wine, or half a glassful of brandy, and cover your 
tongue well with bouillon ; cook slowly three hours ; cov- 
er your saucepan with a buttered paper and keep the sauce- 
pan lid on all the time, to prevent evaporation ; take your 
tongue out of the saucepan, put it on a dish, and slice it 
lengthwise, without cutting the slices apart ; skim your 
sauce, thicken it with a little roux, and add chopped escha- 
lottes, mushrooms, chopped pickles, pepper, and a little 
bouillon ; boil five minutes, and serve poured over the 
tongue. A tomato sauce may also be served with the 
tongue if preferred. 

Slices of cold tongue dipped in egg and bread crumbs and 
fried can also be served with a mushroom or tomato sauce. 

Beef a la Mode. — Take a round of beef, lard it well, 
put it in a saucepan with some slices of bacon skin, half a 
calf's foot, an onion, a carrot, a soup bunch, laurel leaf, 
thyme, garlic, cloves, salt, and pepper ; pour over a pint of 
water, half a glassful of white wine or a spoonful of bran- 
dy, and cook until the meat becomes tender ; dress your 
beef on a dish ;. skim the gravy, adding bouillon if neces- 
sary, let it boil up, strain it, and pour over the beef. It 
requires six hours to cook over a slow fire, and the sauce- 
pan should be kept closely covered. 



100 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Tenderloin a la Broche. — Trim and lard jour fillet; 
steep it twelve hours in a marinade of olive-oil, pepper, 
salt, parsley, laurel leaf, and slices of onion ; put it on the 
spit, the larded side covered with buttered paper ; let it 
cook before a quick fire ; remove the paper a few moments 
before serving; take it off the spit quite rare; serve it 
with a sauce made of the drippings, a dash of lemon, 
chopped eschalottes, salt, and pepper. 

Tenderloin Steaks, Sautis aux Champignons. — Cut your 
steaks all the same size ; season with salt and pepper ; broil 
them on a gridiron over a quick fire, turning them that 
they may be a good color on both sides ; when done place 
them on a dish and keep w T arm ; melt a piece of butter in 
a saucepan ; add your mushrooms cut very thin, a little 
stock (a tablespoon fnl) ; season to taste ; add a glassful of 
white wine; let it Ipoil up once, skim, and serve poured 
over the steaks. 

Turnovers. — Take slices of cold tenderloin ; heat them 
in hot gravy or bouillon ; cut slices of bread the size of 
the slices of tenderloin ; fry them in butter, arrange them 
on a dish — alternately a slice of fillet and a slice of bread 
— and pour over them a sauce piquante. 

Birds without Bones d la Bertini. — Take thin slices of 
tenderloin beef; spread over them thin slices of boiled 
ham exactly the same size ; put in each one a ripe olive 
and a sage leaf; wrap them up and tie them tightly in 
little rolls ; cook them in olive-oil in a saucepan ; remove 
the threads and serve. 

Stewed Beef Feet for Breakfast. — Clean your beef's 
feet ; scrape well, and scald and remove the hoofs ; boil 
them in water until they are tender. You can ascertain 
this by sticking them with a sharp knife. Drain them, 
and remove the large bones; put a lump of butter in a 



MEATS— BEEF. 101 

saucepan with the feet, pour in a cupful of rich, sweet 
cream, season with salt and pepper, cook slowly until you 
can run a straw through them, and serve. 

Sirloin d la Godard. — Remove the bones from the sir- 
loin, trim away the gristle, and any tendons you can reach ; 
lard it well with salted fat pork ; make it into a round ; 
skewer it carefully to keep it in shape ; put it in a sauce- 
pan with carrots, a bunch of fine herbs, onions, salt, and 
pepper; cover it with good bouillon, and put in it a glass- 
ful of Madeira ; cook it on a slow fire ; when the beef is 
done skim the gravy and strain it; return it to the sauce- 
pan with some meat juice, sliced sweetbreads, artichokes, 
and mushrooms; pour this sauce over your sirloin and 
serve. 

The Best Way to Heat Cold Meats. — Cover them with 
buttered paper; put them on the spit until they warm 
through. They will be as tender as the first day. If the 
cold meats are in small pieces, cover them with buttered 
paper, and broil them on the gridiron ; sprinkle them with 
finely chopped herbs. 

Bib Piece a la Marseillaise. — Remove the bones from 
the rib piece ; cook it in a saucepan with some slices of 
bacon ; set it aside ; make a roux in the saucepan ; put 
back your rib piece and slices of bacon ; add spices, salt, 
onions, carrots, soup bunch, and a glassful of brandy; cook 
it five hours over a slow fire, skim it, and serve. A great 
many pieces of beef, veal, mutton, and even pork, can be 
served in this manner. 

Tripe, Bow to Prepare it. — Scrape your tripe ; clean 
it carefully ; wash it through several waters (boiling), then 
in cold water ; cook six hours in water with slices of on- 
ion, cloves, salt, and a few spoonfuls of flour. 



VEAL. 

Roast Loin of Veal. — Allow a quarter of an hour to a 
pound ; heat gradually, and baste frequently— at first with 
salt and water, afterwards with its own gravy; when near- 
ly done dredge lightly with flour, and baste once witli 
melted butter. Should the meat brown too fast, cover 
with white paper buttered ; skim the gravy, thicken with 
a spoonful of browned flour, boil up once, and serve. 

Veal Chops. — Trim as for mutton-chops, dip in beaten 
egg, and roll in bread crumb, and fry. 

Veal Steak. — This should be thinner than beefsteak, and 
thoroughly cooked. Kare veal is an abomination. Broil 
on a buttered gridiron over a clear fire, turning frequently 
until thoroughly cooked ; serve with tomato sauce poured 
over the steak, made as follows: A teacupful of tomato 
stewed and strained ; five small button onions, chopped 
fine ; a little thyme and parsley ; a piece of butter the size 
of an egg ; a pinch of sugar, and salt to taste. 

Heat all in a saucepan, and thicken with a spoonful of 
browned flour. 

Veal Sausage d la Baviere (Frau von P. zu P.). — Take 
a good piece of veal, extract the bone, and pound it with 
a mallet ; put both veal and bone into a casserole, together 
with a calf's foot, and sprinkle both with salt and white 
pepper ; put in, also, some chopped onions, carrots, celery, 
and parsley ; also some sweet marjoram, thyme, grated 
rind of lemon, a laurel leaf, and several slices of bacon. 



MEATS— VEAL. 103 

It is better to put the vegetables, herbs, and bacon into the 
casserole first, and then the meat and calf's foot. When 
all the ingredients are in the casserole pour in a table- 
spoonfnl of vinegar, and about five ounces of melted 
butter; cover the casserole with buttered paper, put on 
the cover, and steam slowly, until the contents are a soft 
mass ; then strain off the liquor, remove the bone and 
calf's foot, and put the meat into a mortar ; pound and 
chop it, moistening from time to time with the liquor; 
then work it all into a fine, smooth mass, and form it into 
a thick sausage roll ; brush it over with melted butter, and 
set it on a wet board, in a cool place, to harden ; serve 
French mustard with it. This receipt is also nice for 
venison. 

Veal and Ham Pie. — Batter a large bowl very thickly, 
and line with sliced and buttered hard-boiled eggs ; then 
put in alternate layers of the thinnest possible slices of 
veal and ham, each completely freed from fat, peppered, 
and sprinkled with lemon juice ; proceed in this way until 
the dish is packed to the brim, remembering always to pack 
very tightly ; when Ml cover all with a thick paste made 
of flour and hot water, just stiff enough to handle with 
ease ; let it overlap the rim by about an inch ; set the bowl 
in a pot of hot water, taking care that the water does not 
come up to the paste rim ; boil steadily, but not hard, for 
three hours ; then set away in a cool place for twenty-four 
houws ; then remove the paste, turn the pie out of the bowl, 
and when you serve cut in thin slices. 

Minced Veal (Old Humphrey). — Take any cold roast 
veal ; remove the skin, fat, and bones ; put the bones, skin, 
and gristly pieces into a saucepan with a cup of cold milk, 
or, better still, of veal or chicken stock, a little ham, a small 
red-pepper pod, and a pinch of sugar, also a small bunch 
of sweet herbs ; stew all together for an hour, then strain, 
thicken with flour, return to the saucepan, and boil five 



104 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

minutes longer, stirring in a tablespoonful of butter, and 
another of roasted, powdered parsley. Meanwhile mince 
the cold veal, and put into the gravy a little at a time; 
adding, also, a little grated rind of lemon ; when almost at 
boiling-point stir in two tablespoonfuls of cream, and, last 
of all, a little lemon juice ; heap on a hot dish, and sur- 
round with slices of lemon. 

Scalloped Veal. — Butter a deep dish, and fill with alter- 
nate layers of finely minced veal and rolled bread crumbs, 
dotting the bread crumbs with bits of butter ; season with 
pepper and salt, and moisten with cream or milk ; last of 
all pour in a cupful of veal broth, and cover with a thick 
layer of rolled bread crumbs, dotting it heavily with bits 
of butter ; bake half an hour if the dish be small. It should 
be covered at first, and the cover removed only just long 
enough to allow it to brown. 

Tomatille. — Cat your veal in thin slices, and about four 
inches square ; make a rich forcemeat stuffing by chopping 
up very fine a little fat pork, eschalottes, bread crumbs, 
salt and pepper — bind with the yolk of an egg; put a 
spoonful of this stuffing on each slice of veal, make it in 
little balls, and stew them in a rich brown gravy made as 
follows: Make a roux, add some finely chopped onions, a 
little stock, season to taste ; cook gently, and keep the 
saucepan closely covered. 

Veal Boullets. — Take any cold veal you have left ; chop 
it up finely ; add lean ham well chopped, a little fat pork, 
chopped onions, parsley, salt, and pepper ; bind it with the 
yolk of an egg beaten up with a little flour; make it into 
flat cakes and fry ; serve with any sauce — mayonnaise is 
excellent. 

Sweetbread Croquettes a la Creole (Madame Eugene). — 
Soak the sweetbreads an hour in warm water, and blanch 



MEATS— VEAL. 105 

them in boiling water until the larding needle can pass 
through them without tearing them ; cut them in dice ; cut 
the same quantity of mushrooms, also, in dice ; stew them 
together in a little white sauce ; make them into shapes like 
a pear, sticking a clove in the end ; powder them with 
bread crumbs and fry; serve with a tomato sauce. 

Blanqtiette of Veal. — Put a lump of butter in a sauce- 
pan ; when it is melted stir in a good spo*onful of flour — 
do not let it color ; pour in by degrees two glasses of boil- 
ing water, stirring all the time; add a little chopped on- 
ion, parsley, salt, and pepper ; cut up in small pieces one 
and a half pounds of veal, and cook it in this sauce. It 
will require three hours over a slow fire. If you make 
your blanquette of cold meats you need only cook it long 
enough to warm it through. To vary it you can stir in 
the yolks of two eggs after you remove the saucepan from 
the fire. 

Veal Galantine. — Bone a good shoulder of veal ; trim 
it into a good shape; make a stuffing of some tender meat 
— either veal, fowls, or game, raw or cooked, taking out all 
tendons or bones; chop it up with twice the quantity of 
kidney fat of veal or beef, removing all the membranes 
which cover it, and mix it well ; adding salt, pepper, nut- 
meg, a little parsley and chives, a pinch of bay leaf and 
thyme powdered ; pound all this well in a wooden or mar- 
ble mortar; add, by degrees, in pounding, two eggs beaten 
up — the white of the egg gives consistency to the paste ; 
mix it till it becomes a smooth paste ; spread out the shoul- 
der of veal ; season with salt, pepper, and a little nutmeg ; 
then put a layer of the stuffing, then a layer of strips of 
veal, ham, and bacon, and slices of truffles; roll it all up 
and tie it tightly; cover it with a cloth and tie it up; 
line a deep saucepan with strips of bacon and bacon skin, 
carrots, onions, soup bunch, and cloves; put in the galan- 
tine with all the trimmings of the shoulder of veal; sea- 



106 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

son with a little salt ; add a little bouillon and a pint 
of white wine; cook it slowly three hours; drain your 
galantine, and do not remove the cloth or untie it until 
it is cold. 

To make the jelly, heat your gravy and skim it ; beat up 
the whites of two eggs in a saucepan ; pour in by degrees 
your gravj^, beating all the time till the moment it begins 
to boil ; set it back on the stove, cover it, and put hot coals 
on the cover ; le*t it simmer very slightly ; when the whites 
are nearly cooked add the juice of a lemon, which will 
clarify it ; stretch a napkin over the four feet of a stool 
turned upside down, put a dish underneath, and strain 
your jelly gently through; when it is cold, cut it up and 
decorate your dish with it. You can clarify any gravy or 
consomme in this manner, and it will be perfectly trans- 
parent. 

■ Fricandeau of Veal. — Lard a round of veal very line 
and close on the upper side ; line the bottom of a saucepan 
with slices of bacon, carrots, onions, two cloves, and a soup 
bunch ; put your veal in the saucepan and pour over some 
bouillon. Be careful to baste it from time to time with 
its own sauce. When the fricandeau is done (it will take 
from two to three hours to cook) take it out of the sauce- 
pan, skim your sauce, remove the soup bunch, reduce the 
sauce, and when it becomes thick and brown pour it over 
your fricandeau ; serve it on & puree of sorrel, spinach, to- 
matoes, or celery. 

Veal CooJced in its Own Juice. — Lard a round of veal, 
put it in a saucepan with a good lump of butter, and let it 
take a good color ; add salt, pepper, and a bay leaf ; cook 
it over a slow tire two or three hours; skim the gravy, 
pour a little water in the saucepan, mix it well with the 
gravy, and serve. 

Ragout of Veal. — Cut the breast of veal in pieces three 

5* 



MEATS— VEAL. 107 

inches square, fry them a light brown in butter, and take 
them out of the saucepan ; make a roux in the same sauce- 
pan with two spoonfuls of flour ; pour in two glasses of 
water or bouillon ; put back the veal ; add a carrot, an on- 
ion stuck with cloves, a soup bunch, salt, and pepper, a 
pinch of sugar, some little onions fried beforehand in but- 
ter, and some mushrooms ; when it is all well cooked re- 
move the soup bunch, skim, and serve. 

Hound of Veal with Anchovies. — Take the bone out of 
a round of veal ; flatten it and lard it with anchovies ; salt 
(very little) and pepper ; pour a glassful of vinegar over 
it and let it steep eight hours ; wipe it dry ; sprinkle it 
with a little flour, and put it in a frying-pan with a little 
olive-oil ; cook it over a slow fire, and let both sides brown 
nicely; when it is done serve it on a dish, add a little 
stock to your sauce, season with salt and pepper, add the 
juice of a lemon, stir it well, and pour over your veal ; 
serve hot. 

Boast Yeal with Fine Herbs. — Lard a loin well with 
lard, seasoned with salt, pepper, and tine herbs; steep it 
in a dish three hours, with sliced onions, chopped pars- 
ley, mushrooms, a bay leaf, thyme, eschalottes, pepper, 
salt, and olive-oil ; when it is well seasoned, put it on the 
spit, pour over it all the seasoning, and envelop it in two 
buttered sheets of white paper, and let it cook before a 
slow fire ; when it is done remove the paper, and take off 
with the point of a knife all the little herbs that adhere to 
the meat and paper ; put them in the saucepan witli the 
gravy, a dash of vinegar, a piece of butter in which a lit- 
tle flour has been kneaded, a little salt and pepper; mix 
all well together, and serve with the roast. 

Veal Grillade d la Creole, No. 1. — Cut slices of tender 
young veal ; put in a saucepan a spoonful of lard, in which 
you slice and fry two onions, half a dozen fine, large, ripe 



108 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

tomatoes, salt, and pepper (red pepper) ; then put the slices 
of veal in the saucepan and let it cook, adding a little 
sprinkle of flour for thickening ; serve it hot with hominy, 
made of grits, for breakfast. If you need more sauce, add 
more tomatoes, or a little water. 

Veal Grillade, No. 2. — Take slices of either veal, beef, 
mutton, or pork; cut them in slices of equal length and 
thickness; steep them in a little oil, pepper, parsley, onions, 
and salt, all minced together, and let them half cook in 
the saucepan ; take little paper boxes, well greased with 
oil, put the grillade in them with all the seasoning, and 
grate over them some bread crumbs ; cover them with a 
sheet of paper, and cook them slowly on a gridiron ; when 
the sauce is made put in a little vinegar, and pour this 
over the grillade, which you serve in the paper boxes. 

Veal Cutlets en Papillotes. — Make a stuffing of bread 
crumbs, chopped onions, pieces of fat pork chopped very 
fine, mushrooms, eschalottes, salt, and pepper ; choose fine 
cutlets ; shape them nicely ; spread a layer of this stuffing 
on both sides of your cutlets ; cover each side with a thin 
slice of bacon; envelop it carefully in a buttered paper 
in the form of a large heart ; cook three quarters of an 
hour on a gridiron, over a slow fire, and serve it in the 
paper. 

Pate of Coifs Liver. — Three pounds of liver ; half a 
pound of round of veal ; half a pound of fillet of beef ; 
half a pound of fresh pork ; quarter of a pound of fat salt 
pork ; half a pound of sausage meat ; a lump of beef mar- 
row as large as a walnut ; an onion ; a clove of garlic ; 
parsley ; eschalottes ; chevril ; two cloves ; a little nutmeg; 
salt and pepper. 

Pound the liver, and chop the veal, beef, and pork very 
fine ; put this in a mould ; cook it two hours in an oven 
or in the stove ; serve cold and grated. 



MEATS— VEAL. 109 

Bordelaise Cutlets. — Shape your cutlets nicely ; season 
with salt and pepper and a dash of nutmeg ; make a stuff- 
ing of fat meat and veal chopped very fine, bread crumbs, 
chopped eschalottes, and parsley ; bind with the yolk of 
an egg, and season with salt and pepper; spread this over 
each cutlet ; brush them over with beaten egg, and sprin- 
kle with bread crumbs; put them in a baking-dish well 
buttered, with fire above and below ; when done arrange 
them on a dish; pour a little bouillon and a dash of vine- 
gar in the baking-dish to make a gravy, which you pour 
over the chops. 

Ragout of Kidneys. — Slice the kidneys, and remove the 
little hard pieces in the middle ; put a lump of butter in a 
saucepan and fry your kidneys two minutes, season with 
salt and pepper, sprinkle in a little flour, add a few sliced 
mushrooms, and pour in some white or red wine and a lit- 
tle bouillon ; cook your sauce till it thickens, and pour it 
over the kidneys. 

Liver Stewed. — Slice the liver and lay in salt and water 
fur an hour ; then cut into dice and put on the fire with 
enough cold water to cover it well ; cover and stew for an 
hour ; when done add a little salt, pepper, mace, sweet mar- 
joram, parsley, and a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce ; 
stew again for half an hour longer ; then add a tablespoon- 
ful of butter, two of browned flour wet with cold water, 
a teaspoonful of lemon juice, and one of currant jelly ; 
boil five minutes and dish. A little sherry is an improve- 
ment. 

Fried Liver. — Slice very thinly and lay in salt and wa- 
ter for half an hour ; then wipe dry, flour well, and arrange 
in a frying-pan with a little butter; when almost cooked 
add a little salt, pepper, powdered parsley, and three table- 
spoonfuls of lemon juice ; when well browned take them 
from the fire and serve in hot dish. 



110 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Stewed Liver (Florentine fashion). — Chop very finely 
some shallots, carrots, a little celery, parsley, and a few 
truffles or dried mushrooms, half a laurel leaf, a little 
thyme, and basil ; add some salt, pepper, and a pinch of 
nutmeg ; cut the liver into thin slices and then into small 
squares ; put a layer of liver in the bottom of a casserole 
with a little butter ; cover this with a layer of the chopped 
vegetables, then put another layer of liver, and so on until 
the casserole is quite full ; cover closely and cook slowly, 
with fire below and above, for an hour ; serve the liver in 
a hot dish with the vegetables arranged round it; pour 
over all a piquant sauce. 

Calfs Liver Roasted (" Common-Sense in the House- 
hold "). — Soak the liver in salt and water an hour to draw 
out the blood ; wipe dry, and stuff with forcemeat made 
of bread crumbs, tw,o slices of fat salt pork chopped small, 
a shallot, pepper, salt, and nutmeg, sweet marjoram and 
thyme, and, if you choose, a little sage ; moisten this with 
butter melted in a very little hot water, and two raw eggs 
well beaten. In order to get this into the liver, make an 
incision with a narrow, sharp knife, and move the point 
dexterously to and fro to enlarge the cavity ; stuff this full 
of forcemeat and sew up the orifice, lard with strips of 
salt pork, and baste with butter and water at first, after- 
wards with the gravy in the dripping-pan ; roast for an 
hour; pour the gravy over the liver when done. 

Eoasted liver is very good cold, cut in slices like tongue. 

Imitation Paths de Foie Gras of Liver. — Boil a calf's 
liver in water that has been slightly salted, and in another 
vessel a nice calf's tongue. It is best to do this the day 
before the pdtSs are made, as they should be not only cold, 
but firm, when used. Cut the liver into bits, and rub them 
gradually to a smooth paste in a Wedge wood mortar, mois- 
tening, as you go on, with melted butter ; work into this 
paste, which should be quite soft, a quarter teaspoonf ul of 



MEATS— VEAL. Ill 

cayenne pepper, or twice the quantity of white or black, 
half a grated nutmeg, a little cloves, a teaspoonful of 
Worcestershire sauce, salt to taste, a full teaspoonful of 
made mustard, and a tablespoonful of boiling water, in 
which an onion has been steeped until the flavor is ex- 
tracted ; work all together thoroughly, and pack in jelly- 
jars with air-tight covers, or, if you have them, in pate 
jars; butter the inside of the jars well, and pack the pate 
very hard, inserting here and there square and triangular 
bits of the tongue, which should be pared and cut up for 
this purpose. These simulate the truffles imbedded in the 
genuine pates from Strasburg and elsewhere. When the 
jar is packed and smooth as marble on the surface, cover 
with melted butter; let this harden, put on the lid, and 
set away in a cool place. In winter it will keep for weeks, 
and is very nice for luncheon or tea. Make into sand- 
wiches, or set on in the jars if they are nice and orna- 
mental. These pates are really very good, and resemble 
in taste the real pate defoie gras. Pigs' livers make a very 
fair pate. The livers of several fowls, however, treated as 
above, make even more satisfactory ^>a£es than the above, 
particularly if you can get real truffles. 

Calf's Head Stewed. — Scald the head in boiling water 
in which a little lye has been dissolved. When the hair 
has been completely removed, scald again carefully ; then 
wash the head in several waters, take out the brains, and 
set them by in a cool place ; tie the head in a floured cloth, 
and boil two hours in hot water slightly salted; wash the 
brains carefully, picking out all the bits of skin and mem- 
brane, and cleansing them until perfectly white ; then 
stew in just enough water to cover them ; boil the head 
until the meat slips easily from the bones ; then cut the 
meat into small even squares, and stew in the water in 
which the head was boiled, adding, also, a bunch of sweet 
herbs, a pinch of sugar, a piece of butter the size of an 
egg, and a glassful of Madeira, and thickening with a tea- 



112 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

spoonful of brown flour moistened with cold water; make 
small croquettes of the brains, which should be poached, 
not fried ; serve in the dish with the stew, arranging the 
croquettes round the stew in the centre. 

Calves' 1 Brains in Shells.— In using calves' brains be 
careful always to have them fresh. This being secured, 
boil two calves' brains, cut them into small pieces, put 
them into an earthen saucepan, and season them with pep-, 
per and salt ; put into a casserole several tablespoonf uls of 
Vechamel sauce, strained ; mix with it, little by little, sev- 
eral tablespoonf uls of stock ; when it is smooth and creamy 
add four teaspoonfuls of fine herbs, roasted and crumbled 
to powder ; two minutes after add the brains, mashing and 
stirring well so that they are smoothly mixed with the 
cream ; fill some shells with this mixture, dust with grated 
bread crumbs, put into the oven long enough to brown, 
and serve at once. 

Cromesquis of Calves'' Brains. — Pour into a casserole a 
glassful of good, strong brown sauce, made according to any 
of the foregoing receipts; mix with it, little by little, four 
tablespoonfuls of melted stock (beef) and a wineglassful 
of Madeira ; when it is thick and smooth withdraw from 
the fire and add two calves' brains, boiled and cut into 
dice as above ; add, also, half the quantity of boiled mush- 
rooms and as much red tongue, cut into small squares ; mix 
all together, season to taste with salt and a soujpcon of mus- 
tard, and set away to cool ; when cold form into small rolls, 
envelop each in a paste made of flour and water, rolled 
thin ; dip the cromesquis first into beaten egg, then in 
rolled bread crumbs, and fry quickly ; drain, and serve 
on a folded napkin. 

Boast Sweetbreads. — Clean and skin four sweetbreads; 
then heat them almost to boiling; remove from the cas- 
serole, drain, wipe dry, and lard them ; put them into a deep 



MEATS— VEAL. 113 

dish and pour over them a little melted butter, then cover 
them carefully with a chopped onion and a little thyme 
and laurel ; cover the dish and let them soak for an hour ; 
then remove the vegetables, envelop each of the sweet- 
breads in white buttered paper, put them on the spit, or 
on a skewer, and roast before a clear h're for half an hour ; 
remove the paper, baste them with their own drippings 
until brown, then glaze with a salamander, and serve on a 
very hot dish, surrounded with freshly boiled and tender 
green pease. 

Fried Sweetbreads. — Blanch three or four moderately 
large sweetbreads, drain, and allow them to cool ; remove 
all strings and skin, and cut into slices half an inch thick ; 
season with salt and pepper and dust with flour; beat two 
eggs very light, yolks and whites together ; add two tea- 
spoonfuls of fine herbs roasted and powdered ; dip the 
slices of sweetbread in this, roll in bread crumbs, and fry 
quickly in butter or drippings ; drain on soft paper, ar- 
range on a folded napkin, and serve with a little fried 
parsley. 

Stewed Sweetbreads. — Wash carefully and remove all 
fibrous and fatty matter, and as much skin as possible; 
then put into a saucepan, cover with cold water, and heat 
to a boil ; pour off the hot water, and cover with cold un- 
til the sweetbreads are firm ; when firm stew in a very 
little water, and when tender add for each sweetbread a 
heaping teaspoonful of butter, a little chopped parsley, 
pepper and salt to taste, and some rich cream ; let them 
simmer for five minutes, and serve in the sauce in which 
they have been stewed. 

Or, you may lard the sweetbreads and make a brown 
gravy, substituting for the cream a glassful of good wine. 
In this case do not cook the sweetbreads in the sauce. 
Let it boil up once and pour over them. 



114 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Sweetbread a la Financiere. — Scrape and skin two sweet- 
breads, then blanch, dip in cold water, and put under a 
slight pressure; when quite cold trim, and season them 
with salt and pepper; then lay them in a buttered sauce- 
pan and cook for two or three minutes, turning them con- 
stantly ; then add half a tumblerful of good white bouillon 
and cook until it thickens; then turn the sweetbreads, add 
another half glassful of white bouillon, and cook as before ; 
then arrange in a circle on a very hot dish, cover, and set 
in a hot place while you prepare the financiere. 

Pour into the saucepan in which the sweetbreads were 
cooked a glassful of Rhine wine, boil, and strain ; skim 
and put back into the saucepan, cook until it thickens, and 
add an equal quantity of brown sauce, and four raw truffles 
peeled and cut into quarters; cook fi.ve minutes, and add 
some button mushrooms and a pinch of cayenne ; when it 
boils up take it from the fire, add to it twenty small force- 
meat balls, poached, and pour all into the hollow left by 
the circle of sweetbreads. {Delicious.) 

Sweetbread Croquettes (Augustine's). — Cut into dice three 
or four cooked sweetbreads, and mix with them half the 
quantity of breast of boiled chicken pounded to a paste, 
and a little rolled bread crumbs softened with rich cream ; 
mix all smoothly together, adding more cream, as much as 
is necessary to soften the paste ; when very soft — as soft 
as it can be and hold together — season with salt, white 
pepper, and a soupgon of nutmeg; set aside to cool ; when 
cold form into oval balls, rolling in bread crumbs, dipping 
in beaten egg, then rolling in bread crumbs again ; fry in 
a wire basket, drain on soft paper, and serve on a folded 
napkin, or on a dish surrounded by green pease. 

Sweetbreads a la Yirginie. — Prepare the sweetbreads 
very carefully and blanch ; put them into a strong stock 
of chicken or beef, well seasoned with onion and celery ; 
simmer gently for three hours; take them out, drain, and 



MEATS— VEAL. 115 

fry in lard to a light brown ; serve on a very hot dish sur- 
rounded by green pease. 

Sweetbreads a la Blanchette. — Prepare the sweetbreads 
as above, and blanch ; put them into a strong chicken 
stock flavored with onion and celery; simmer gently for 
three hours; take them out, drain, and serve in a rich 
white sauce with a good deal of roasted parsley in it. 






MTJTTOK 

Boast Saddle of Mutton & la Virginie. — Wash the sad- 
dle thoroughly, inside and out, with good vinegar; do not 
wipe it, but hang up to dry in a cool cellar ; when quite 
dry cover with a clean cloth, or tie in a loose muslin bag ; 
sponge off with vinegar every other day for a fortnight, 
keeping the meat in a very cold place and always covered. 
When ready to cook wipe it carefully with a clean cloth, 
and roast, basting for the first two hours with butter and 
water, and afterwards with the gravy. A large saddle of 
mutton will require four hours to roast ; when roasted, 
dish on a hot dish, and keep covered while you skim the 
gravy, and add half a teacupful of mushroom catsup, a 
glassful of Madeira wine, and a tablespoonful of browned 
flour ; boil up once, and send to table in a sauce-boat ; al- 
ways serve currant jelly with mutton. 

Mutton Ham (" Common-Sense in the Household "). — 
Leg of mutton weighing twelve pounds ; one ounce of 
black pepper ; a quarter of a pound of brown sugar ; one 
ounce of saltpetre ; one and a quarter pounds of salt. 

The day after the sheep is killed, mix the sugar, pepper, 
and saltpetre, and nib thoroughly into the meat for fifteen 
minutes, until the outer part is thoroughly impregnated 
with the seasoning. Put the ham into a large earthenware 
vessel and cover it with the salt; let it remain thus for 
three weeks, turning it daily and basting it with the brine, 
adding to this, after the first week, a teacupful of vinegar. 
When the ham is removed from the pickle, wash with cold 
water, then with vinegar, and hang it up in a cool cellar 



ME ATS— MUTTON. 117 

for a week, at least, before it is used. Soak an hour in 
fair water before boiling. 

Or, if you choose to smoke it for several days after 
it is corned, it can be chipped and eaten raw like dried 
beef. 

Mutton Chops. — Trim off all superfluous fat and skin, 
and broil on a gridiron over a clear fire ; when cooked, 
salt and pepper lightly, and stick a bit of butter on each. 
Chops must be rare always. A too well done chop is a 
chop spoiled. 

Stewed Mutton Cutlets. — Cut and shape the cutlets from 
the best part of the neck; cut the bones short and scrape 
the ends, and take most of the fat off ; put them into a 
deep dish, after they have been peppered and salted, with 
seasoned beef gravy ; let them stew for three hours in a 
slow oven ; the dish should be kept covered ; serve with 
the liquor in which they have been stewed, to which a 
teaspoonful of mushroom catsup and the same of tarragon 
vinegar have been added ; arrange in a circle on a round 
dish, putting mashed potatoes or mashed turnips in the 
middle. These cutlets look better if glazed a dark brown 
before being sent to table. 

Broiled Mutton Cutlets. — Cut the cutlets out of a piece 
of the best end of a neck of mutton ; they should be less 
than half an inch thick and neatly trimmed, with not too 
much fat left on them ; give them a few blows with the 
bat, and grill them on or in front of the fire, which should 
be clear and fierce, so that each cutlet be full of juice when 
cut; sprinkle with salt, and arrange in a circle round a 
heap of potato sautees. 

Two Dishes from One Leg of Mutton. — Cut the leg of 
mutton cleanly across the meat and bone from the shank 
down, with as much meat as will suffice for the meal ; rub 



118 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

it and flour it all over, but especially the cut-meat surface ; 
plunge it at once into a saucepan or pot of boiling water 
to cover it completely, adding some salt, a few grains of 
pepper, and a bunch of parsley ; draw away from the fire 
and allow the water to cool almost completely, then put 
again to the fire and cook slowly, according to weight, till 
quite done to taste ; serve with parsley, onions, capers, sor- 
rel, or any sauce preferred. 

Or, it may be stew r ed, as above, with a great variety of 
vegetables. The flour and the plunging into boiling wa- 
ter will prevent the juice from escaping, and the meat will 
cut as finely as from a whole boiled leg of mutton. 

Mutton Steak. — From the rest of the leg of mutton cut 
cleanly and evenly a slice from the full round of two or 
three inches thick; pepper and flour both sides at once, 
and insert a piece of shallot onion in the bone eye ; broil 
the meat slowly on a beefsteak griddle, covering the up- 
per surface with chopped beef marrow, butter, or mutton 
kidney fat; prepare a brown gravy with fried shallots, 
brown stock, a few peppercorns, two cloves, some lemon 
rings or juice, or a spoonful of tarragon vinegar ; strain, 
and add some split olives or pounded anchovies. 

Boiled Leg of Mutton a VAnglaise. — Put your leg of 
mutton in boiling water (salted) ; add twelve whole tur- 
nips, trimmed and cleaned ; let it boil till done. You 
allow half an hour for every three pounds of the meat. 
Drain it and serve it on a dish surrounded by the turnips ; 
decorate the handle of the gigot with frilled paper ; serve 
with caper sauce. 

Sheep Kidneys. — Slice your kidneys ; put them in a 
saucepan with a lump of butter, sliced onion, chopped 
parsley, and a little flour; add a little water or bouillon, 
salt and pepper, and, just before serving, a glassful of Ma- 
deira. 



MEATS— MUTTON. 119 

Hochepot. — Cut up pieces of the breast, shoulder, and 
chops ; fry them in butter in a saucepan ; take them out 
and make a roux in your saucepan ; when it browns add 
water, salt, pepper, a soup bunch, and a clove of garlic ; put 
back your mutton, and when it is nearly done add some 
turnips which you have fried in butter till they are a gold 
color ; cook half an hour, skim, and serve. You can sub- 
stitute Irish potatoes and carrots for turnips. 

Stewed Breast of Mutton. — Cut your breast in pieces ; 
stew it in a saucepan with butter, a little water, onions, a 
bay leaf, salt and pepper ; just before serving stir in a cup- 
ful of cream and a little chopped parsley. 

Blakeley Mutton Pate. — Boil the head, liver, and has- 
lets; drain well; remove all the meat from the head; take 
out the brains ; remove all gristle and tendons from the 
liver and haslets ; pound all this in a mortar to a paste ; 
season this with grated onions, a bay leaf, thyme, and pars- 
ley, salt and pepper, sliced ceps and truffles, half a clove 
of garlic, pounded; moisten with olive-oil, and bind it 
with yolks of three eggs ; pour this in a china mould and 
bake ; serve cold. 

Baked Leg of Mutton with Anchovies and Ham. — 
Pound your gigot ; lard it with six cloves of garlic, salted, 
and sprinkled with pepper and with strips of lean ham ; 
put your gigot in a saucepan with a quart of good bouillon ; 
add salt, pepper, a bay leaf, nutmeg, a Bordeaux glassful 
of brandy ; cook on a gentle fire. 

Make an anchovy butter; pound a dozen anchovies 
(from which you have removed the bones) into a paste, 
and mix them with six ounces of fresh butter. It should 
be made the moment the gigot is cooked. 

Take your gigot out of the saucepan for a moment ; let 
your sauce boil up ; skim it, and pour it in the saucepan 
with your anchovy butter; return your gigot to the sauce- 



120 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

pan, and let it set on hot coals until you are ready to 
serve ; dress your gigot on a dish and pour over the sauce. 

Saddle of Mutton with Parsley. — Lard your saddle with 
fresh parsley, just as you would with strips of bacon ; spit 
it and baste it well. It will require one hour and a half 
to cook. 

Stuffed Boast Leg of Mutton. — Lift up the dry skin that 
covers the leg carefully, without taking it off entirely ; 
lard your gigot with celery half cooked in bouillon, slices 
of pickles, tender bunches of estragon bleached, strips of 
fat pork; season it well, and sprinkle it with chopped an- 
chovies ; draw the skin over the stuffing, fasten it careful- 
ly with thread, put it on the spit, and serve it in its own 
juice. 

Mutton Stew (Old Virginia dish). — Take pieces of cold 
roast mutton, cut them up in dice, and put them in a chaf- 
ing-dish with a large lump of butter, a glassful of currant 
jelly, some mango pickles sliced, and a glassful of good 
old Madeira ; salt and pepper ; light the spirit-lamp, let it 
heat through, and serve hot. 

Mutton Tongues. — Soak them an hour or two in cold 
water, then throw them in boiling water until you can re- 
move the hard skin which covers them ; trim them, cut 
out the hard piece, and split them in two — lengthwise ; 
cook them in a saucepan with slices of bacon, chopped 
mushrooms, salt, spices, parsley, and thyme, and serve. 

Mutton Tongues with Tomatoes. — Boil and skin your 
tongue; split it lengthwise; season, and pour over it a 
rich tomato sauce. 

Cutlets a la Vietime. — Fasten three cutlets together, the 
finest one in the middle ; broil them on the gridiron, turn- 



ME ATS— MUTTON. 121 

ing them several times that the juice may concentrate in 
the middle one ; when the upper and lower ones are more 
than done put them aside, and serve only the middle one. 
This was a favorite dish of Louis XVIII. 

Cutlets d la Milanaise. — Dip your cutlets in melted but- 
ter, and then into pounded bread crumbs and grated par- 
mesan cheese ; beat up two eggs, dip your cutlets in this, 
then again into the bread crumbs and cheese ; fry them in 
butter, and serve them with tomato sauce. * 

Veiled Cutlets. — Take fillet cutlets — those without bones 
—trim and ihnten them, cover them with a thin layer of sau- 
sage meat in which you chop a few truffles ; envelop them 
in the thin membrane that covers the fat of pork, and broil 
them. 

Cutlets d la Vinaigrette. — Cook your chops in a frying- 
pan with butter ; when they are done drain them on brown 
paper ; add several spoonfuls of bouillon to the butter, es- 
chalottes, fine herbs, salt and pepper, and pickles cut in 
slices ; let it boil up ; dress your cutlets on a dish ; pour 
the sauce over them, adding a dash of vinegar. 

6 



LAMB. 

The receipts given above for mutton apply equally to 
lamb ; but the cook must always bear in mind that though 
lamb may be stewed, it ought never to be boiled, and that 
underdone lamb is an abomination, and also indigestible. 

Quarter of Lamb Larded and Boasted. — Lard the lamb 
carefully with a larding needle, envelop in buttered pa- 
per, and roast on the spit, or in a Dutch oven ; when al- 
most cooked, remove the paper, dust lightly with salt and 
roasted parsley, and' serve with maitre $ hotel sauce. 

Fillets of Lamb d la Bechamel. — Make a good bechamel 
sauce ; when you are ready to serve, put into it some cold 
roast lamb cut into very thin slices, heat, but do not boil, 
and, when very hot, serve. 

Lamb a la Poulette. — Blanch a quarter of lamb ; then 
put a lump of butter into a casserole together with a 
spoonful of fine flour ; when the flour and butter are 
well amalgamated, add two or three glassfuls of boiling 
water; add the water little by little so that it may mix 
well with the butter ; when the sauce is smooth and 
clear put in the lamb, pepper, salt, a bunch of sweet 
herbs, some button onions ; half an hour before serving 
add some mushrooms; when cooked, put the lamb on a 
very heft dish, and arrange the onions and mushrooms in 
siTch a way as to garnish it ; strain the sauce, beat up 
with it the yolk of an egg, pour over the lamb, and 
serve. 



PORK. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

All hogs should be kept shut up, and well fed for three 
weeks before they are killed ; their sties should be cleaned 
daily, and they should be furnished with an abundance of 
fresh water. A pig should not be allowed to eat any- 
thing for twenty-four hours before he is killed. After 
killing be very careful to keep the pork from tainting. 
It spoils very easily. All kinds of pork should be cooked 
thoroughly. Underdone pork is very unwholesome, as 
well as unpalatable. 

Pork requires a great deal of cooking, and is never fit 
to eat when underdone. Otherwise the usual rules for 
roasting and boiling meats will apply to it. Pork chops 
and steaks are cooked as those of mutton or beef. 



Loin of Pork Roasted. — Loin of pork is generally 
scored across the skin, and may be stuffed with a rich 
stuffing of bread, onion, and herbs ; apple sauce is gener- 
ally eaten with all roast pork. 

Young Pig Roasted. — Prepare for roasting, and stuff 
as you would a turkey, but put more onion and dried and 
powdered herbs in the stuffing ; serve on a hot dish, sur- 
rounded by a wreath of crisped parsley and sliced lemon. 

Austrian Roast Pig. — Kill your pig; lay it in cold 
water fifteen minutes; then plunge it in boiling water; 
scrape the hair off ; clean it perfectly ; cut it open ; take 



124 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

out the entrails; wash thoroughly with clear water; then 
with soda and water, and lastly with salt and water ; make 
a stuffing with the pig's liver, fat pork, truffles, mushrooms, 
a little garlic, capers, hazelnuts, thyme and parsley, salt 
and red pepper; fry it in your frying-pan, and stuff your 
pig; sew him up and truss; bend his fore-feet backwards, 
his hind-feet forwards, under and close to the body ; take 
a sharp knife, cut the skin of the pig in diamonds; rub 
your pig with melted butter or oil ; put it to roast with 
a little hot water, slightly salted, in the dripping-pan ; 
baste with butter and water; rub it over every few mo- 
ments with oil to have the skin crisp ; it requires two 
hours to cook over a brisk and steady fire ; serve it with 
an apple in its mouth, and garnish the dish with parsley, 
chiccory, or curled celery. 

Roast Sparerib.— When put down to the fire, cover 
with greased paper until half done, then remove the pa- 
per and dredge with flour. Afterwards baste with but- 
ter, and lastly with the gravy of the sparerib itself ; just 
before taking it up dust with rolled bread crumbs, a fine- 
ly minced shallot, pepper, salt, and powdered sage ; let it 
cook five minutes longer, basting it meanwhile with but- 
ter ; skim the gravy ; add half a cupful of red wine ; thick- 
en with browned flour ; add the juice of a lemon ; strain, 
and pour over the sparerib. 

Boast Chine. — Score deeply and closely the strip of 
skin running along the neck ; then roast as you roast 
sparerib. 

Baked Pork and Beans. — One quart of small white 
beans, washed, picked over, and soaked all night in luke- 
warm water, which should be changed twice for more and 
warmer water; one pound of the middling of salt pork. 

In the morning pour the water off the beans, and put 
them into an earthen crock ; score very deeply the salt 






MEATS— PORK. 125 



pork and imbed it in the beans, leaving the skin level 
with- the beans; cover all barely with water in which a 
heaping tablespoonful of molasses has been stirred ; add 
some black pepper; then cover all with a stiff, thick dongli 
of flour and water, leaving a hole in the middle for the 
beans to brown ; bake all day, very slowly, in a cool oven ; 
lift the dough occasionally to see if there is enough water ; 
if too dry, add boiling water; towards the last the beans 
should absorb all the water; remove the paste and serve 
the pork and beans in the crock in which they were cooked. 
Earthenware crocks made expressly for this purpose may 
be bought in New England. 

Pork and Beans. — One quart of white beans ; one 
pound of salt pork. 

Prepare beans and pork for cooking as above, but in 
the morning boil the beans, putting them on to boil in cold 
water; when soft drain off the water, put the beans in a 
deep earthenware dish, the pork in the middle ; add a very 
little warm water, a tablespoonful of molasses, black pep- 
per to taste, and bake a nice brown. 

Pork-and-Pease Pudding. — One quart of dried split 
pease, soaked over-night in water; one pound of salt pork 
(lean), soaked over-night also. 

In the morning put the pease on to boil slowly until 
tender ; drain and rub through a colander ; season with 
pepper and salt, and add two eggs well beaten, two table- 
spoonfuls of butter, a teaspoonful of brown sugar, and 
pepper to taste ; beat all well together, and tie loosely in 
a floured pudding cloth ; put it, with the pork, into warm 
water, and boil together for an hour; lay the pork in a 
dish, turn out the pudding, slice, and arrange about the 
meat. 

Poiled Ham, No. 1. — A ham should be put into cold water 
enough to cover it. As soon as the water boils set it aside, 



126 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

where it will only simmer, for eight hours; then take it 
out, remove the skin, and put the ham again into the ket- 
tle, and let it remain until the water has cooled ; then take 
it out, trim it nicely, sprinkle over it pounded cracker and 
brown sugar, and brown in an oven. 

Boiled Ham, No. 2. — Soak over-night in cold water ; in 
the morning wash and put on to boil in cold water; allow 
a quarter of an hour to a pound, and do not boil too fast ; 
skin, and brown as above. 

Baked Ham. — Wash carefully and soak over-night a 
medium-sized ham ; early in the morning put it into f resli 
water enough to cover it, and set it on the fire to boil ; 
when it begins to boil set it back, and let it simmer for 
four hours, filling the boiler, as it needs, with boiling wa- 
ter ; take it out at the expiration of the four hours, and 
skin it while hot ; trim off the edges carefully and neatly ; 
then grate over it (half an inch deep) bread crumbs and a 
sprinkle of brown sugar ; put the ham into a dripping-pan 
with half a pint of its own drippings (in which you have 
dissolved a pinch of brown sugar) and a pint of Madeira 
wine ; put in the oven to bake, and baste every few min- 
utes until the ham is well browned and every drop of the 
wine absorbed. 

Steamed Ham. — Soak in cold water twelve hours ; then 
wash, rubbing thoroughly with a stiff brush ; plunge again, 
for a moment, in cold water ; take out the ham, put into 
a steamer, cover closely, and set over a pot of boiling wa- 
ter ; keep the water at a hard boil, and allow twenty min- 
utes to a pound ; skin, sprinkle with bread crumbs, etc., 
as for boiled ham. 

Boast Ham, No. 1. — Take a new ham that has been 
salted some weeks only ; if smoked, parboil it before roast- 
ing; while it is before the fire baste it with white wine 



MEATS— PORK. 127 

and loaf sugar ; when half done remove the skin, stick the 
ham full of cloves, and let it roast as long again, basting it 
with fresh wine and sugar until thoroughly cooked. 

Boast Ham, No. 2 (" Common-Sense in the House- 
hold "). — Soak a large ham for two days in lukewarm wa- 
ter, changing the water at least six times a day ; take it 
out, wash thoroughly, and trim away the black and rusty 
edges; skin carefully and completely; lay in a dish, and 
sponge with a cloth dipped in the following mixture, which 
should be well mixed : One tumblerful of white wine ; 
half a gill of strong vinegar; one tablespoonful of white 
sugar, heaped ; one saltspoonful of made mustard. 

Do this thoroughly once every hour — turning the ham 
and sponging every part of it — all day until bedtime; re- 
new the process in the morning until six hours before you 
need the meat ; put it on the spit, and add to the mixture 
above mentioned a cupful of boiling water ; baste the ham 
perpetually with this until it drips freely, then baste with 
its own drippings ; when cooked cover the ham with rolled 
bread crumbs worked to a paste with cream, butter, beaten 
egg, and a little pepper, and return to the oven to brown ; 
skim the gravy, add a glassful of good wine, a tablespoon- 
ful of walnut catsup, the juice of a lemon, and a soupgon 
of nutmeg ; boil up, and send to table in a sauce-boat. 

Barbecued Ham. — Cut in slices; wash well and soak in 
very hot water for half an hour ; pour off the water and 
add more, scalding hot; let the ham stand half an hour; 
then take it out, wipe dry, lay in cold water for five min- 
utes, wipe dry again, and arrange the slices in a large fry- 
ing-pan, putting on each slice a saltspoonful of made mus- 
tard and half a teaspoonful of vinegar; pepper well; fry 
quickly and turn often ; when done to a fine brown trans- 
fer to a hot dish, add to the gravy in the pan half a glass- 
ful of wine and a very small teaspoonful of white sugar* 
boil up and pour over the meat. 



128 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Broiled Ham. — Soak, etc., as above, and broil on a well 
buttered gridiron over a clear, fierce fire. 

Broiled Ham au Gratin {Guisiniere Bourgeoise). — 
Soak, etc., as above ; dip each slice in beaten egg and bread 
crumbs, and broil on a buttered gridiron over a clear fire. 

Fried Ham. — Take raw ham ; slice and soak as above ; 
cook in a hot frying-pan, turning often until done; pour 
over the ham, when dished, the gravy in the frying-pan ; 
if you choose you may add to the gravy in the frying-pan 
a little eream thickened with Hour, and a teaspoonful of 
powdered parsley ; boil up once and pour over the ham. 

Gold Ham, Fried. — Cut thick slices of cold boiled ham, 
dip in beaten egg, then in rolled bread crumbs, and fry in 
fat extracted from bits of salt pork ; take the dry fried 
pork from the pan before putting in the ham ; garnish 
with curled parsley. 

Ham and Eggs. — Cut the raw ham in large, even slices ; 
soak and dry as usual ; fry quickly in a large frying-pan ; 
the moment they are done put into a hot dish, cover, and 
fry the eggs in the fat left by the ham ; take care that 
the eggs do not touch each other ; fry them three minutes, 
lay one egg on each slice of ham, and serve. 

Ham Sandwiches. — Cut some rather stale bread very 
thin, having previously grated off the crust ; butter each 
slice on the loaf before cutting it ; lay between every two 
slices some cold boiled ham from which you have removed 
the fat ; spread the meat with a very little mustard. 

Ground- Ham Sandwiches. — -Grind some cold boiled 
ham very fine, then dry in the oven to a light powder. 
Take an oblong white loaf, rather stale ; grate off the 
crust ; butter as above ; spread thickly with ground ham, 



MEATS— PORK. 129 

cut very thin, and roll up like wafers. These are very 
pretty sandwiches. 

Ham- and- Chicken Sandwiches. — Equal quantities of 
cold roast chicken and boiled ham; mince very fine ; put 
into a saucepan with enough gravy — veal or chicken — to 
make a soft paste ; or, failing gravy, use cream, hot water, 
and a lump of butter; cook live minutes, then take from 
the fire and spread on a dish to cool. Cut (with a cake 
cutter) some white bread into rounds, half or a quarter of 
an inch thick ; butter, spread with grated cheese, then 
with the mince, and press the rounds firmly together. 

Lard, — Take leaf lard, skin carefully, wash, drain, cut 
into bits, throw in a large tin kettle, and set this in a pot 
of boiling water; stir from time to time, letting it simmer 
gently until clear, throwing in, also, a little salt to make 
the sediment settle ; when quite hot and clear strain 
through a coarse cloth into jars, being careful not to press 
it. Lard keeps longer and better in small jars. Cover 
with bladder. 

To Try out Lard. — Take all the fatty portions of pork 
left next the skin of the hog; scrape from the rind and 
cut into dice ; fill a large pot, put in a cupful of water to 
prevent burning, and melt very slowly, stirring every three 
minutes ; simmer until nothing remains of the meat but 
fibrous bits ; remove these carefully with a perforated 
skimmer, throw in a little salt to settle the fat, and when 
clear strain through a coarse cloth into small jars. Ke- 
member to simmer gently over a steady fire, stirring con- 
stantly and from the bottom until the salt is thrown in to 
settle it, then withdraw it to a less hot part of the fire un- 
til clear. Do not leave it an instant ; a moment's burning 
will ruin everything. 

Headcheese. — Boil the head, ears, and tongue in salted 

6* 



130 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

water until tender ; strip the meat from the bones, and cut 
the tongue into oblongs, squares, and triangles ; grind the 
rest of the meat fine ; season with salt, pepper, sage, sweet 
marjoram, powdered cloves, and half a cupful of strong 
vinegar; mix all together thoroughly, and pack hard in 
moulds or bowls ; press down the meat tightly ; put a wet 
plate and a heavy weight on each for two days. If you 
wish to keep it for weeks, immerse the cheese in cold vin- 
egar in stone jars. Headcheese is good cold ; but may be 
sliced, dipped in beaten egg and bread crumbs, and fried ; 
or else cut in slices and seasoned slightly with mustard, 
and warmed. 

Pork Potpie. — Line a well-buttered pot with good, 
light paste ; put in a layer of chine of pork, cut into rib- 
lets ; then a layer of parboiled potatoes, sliced ; season 
with salt and pepper ; proceed in this way until the pot is 
nearly full, putting some strips of paste into each layer; 
then pour in a quart of cold water and put On the upper 
crust, cutting a slit in it ; put on the pot-lid and boil from 
an hour and a half to two hours; when done lay in upper 
crust in a large, hot dish, put in the meat, etc., and cover 
with the lower crust. 

Ham-and- Chicken Pie. — Line a buttered pie-dish with 
good puff paste, and fill up with alternate layers of cold 
ham and boiled chicken, interspersing each layer with 
slices of hard-boiled egg buttered and peppered ; then 
pour in a cupful of chicken and roux, cover with paste, 
and bake an hour. 

Brawn. — Pig's head weighing six pounds; one pound 
of lean beef ; one shallot minced fine ; one teaspoonf ul of 
salt ; half a teaspoonf ul of pepper ; half a teaspoonf ul of 
cayenne ; half a teaspoonful of mace ; one pinch of cloves. 

Clean and wash the head, and stew with the beef in 
enough cold water to cover; when the flesh is loosened 



MEATS— PORK. 131 

from the bones, remove them and drain off the liquor; 
grind the meat finely while it is hot ; season, mix, and 
pour into a tin boar's head wet with cold water. 

Saveloys. — Eight pounds of pork (soaked in a brine of 
salt and water with a tablespoonf ul of saltpetre) for three 
days ; four teaspoonfuls of black pepper ; one teaspoonf ul 
of cayenne ; one teaspoonful of cloves or mace ; one tea- 
cupful of bread crumbs ; eight teaspoonfuls of sage, sweet 
marjoram, and thyme, powdered; a brine of salt and wa- 
ter with a tablespoonf ul of saltpetre, and leave it for three 
days. 

Dry, mince, season, mix, stuff into skins, and steam over 
boiling water one hour. 

Cheshire Pork Pie. — Two or three pounds of lean fresh 
pork cut into strips two inches long and one wide ; an equal 
weight of juicy apples, pared, cored, and cut into slices. 

Line a buttered dish with puff paste; put in a layer of 
pork, then of apples covered with an ounce of white sug- 
ar, then pork ; proceed in this way until the dish is full, 
seasoning each layer of pork with pepper, salt, and nut- 
meg ; when the dish is full pour in half a pint of sweet 
cider, and stick bits of butter over the top ; cover with a 
thick lid of puff paste, cut a slit in the top, and bake for 
an hour and a half ; brush the top with beaten egg before 
baking. 

Yorkshire Pork Pie. — Make and bake as above, omit- 
ting apples, sugar, and nutmeg, and adding sage to the 
seasoning. 

flopping John (Old Virginia receipt). — One pint of lady 
pease ; one quart of rice ; one pound of bacon. 

Boil the pease and bacon together until soft, then add 
the rice, well washed ; stir well, and boil until it boils up ; 
then pour off the water, leaving just enough to cover it ; 



132 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

cover and set on a slow fire until thoroughly done; when 
you pour the water off add a teaspoonful of whole black 
pepper. 

To Cure Hams (Old Virginia receipt). — One hundred 
pounds of meat; six gallons of hot water; nine pounds of 
salt; four pounds of brown sugar; three ounces of salt- 
petre, dissolved alone. 

Put all the pickle into a large vessel and boil for half 
an hour, skimming off the scum ; do not put it on the hams 
until cold ; then pour it over so as to saturate them thorough- 
ly, and let it remain a few days ; after a fortnight or sixteen 
days take the hams from the pickling barrel ; wash off the 
pickle, and while wet dip 'in bran ; when well covered 
with bran hang in the smoke, the hock end downward ; 
keep up a good smoke for four weeks, having the fire par- 
tially smothered with hickory chips and sawdust, and be- 
ing careful not to let the house become hot ; then take 
down the meat, brush off the bran, examine closely for in- 
sects, and lay in the hot sun for a day or two. 

Hams may be kept packed in slaked ashes, in dry oats, 
or in bran — best in slaked ashes. 

Or, they may be covered with brown paper, then with 
coarse muslin stitched tightly, and whitewashed. 

Or, in coarse muslin coated with a mixture of beeswax 
and rosin. 

Pickled Pork. — Proceed as above ; but if you do not 
smoke, take the pork out of the barrel at the end of a fort- 
night, rub each piece with salt, and return it to the barrel. 
If the liquor does not cover it make fresh brine, in the 
proportion of two pounds of salt, a quarter of an ounce of 
saltpetre, and a quart of water ; boil half an hour, cool, 
and pour over the pork. Pork should, if possible, be pic- 
kled within twenty-four hours after butchering. 

Virginia Bacon. — The pork must be well fattened with 



MEATS— PORK. 133 

corn, and not cut out until the day after it is killed ; salt 
it thoroughly with fine salt and ground alum mixed, and 
a teaspoonful of saltpetre rubbed well into the hocks be- 
fore the salt is applied; lay it carefully in tubs, with the 
skin down, for four weeks ; at the end of that time hang 
up the middlings, joints, and chines; have the bones and 
shoulders covered with nicely burned hickory ashes well 
sifted ; let them lie two weeks, then hang up with the 
hocks down ; keep up a smoke (not lire) as directed for 
hams. Be careful not to let one piece touch another in 
hanging. 

Towards the spring, when the weather is warm and 
damp, put in just wood enough to keep alive, and at least 
once a day a good deal of tobacco and red pepper. This 
is necessary, as it destroys all flies and insects. It is best, 
occasionally, to have a smoke of that sort all the spring. 
Your meathouse must be dry, and have air-holes bored 
high up in the gable ends, or a lattice door you can lock, 
opening the close door in fine weather. Kill the hogs on 
the increase of the moon. By following these directions 
you are sure to have good bacon. 

Never salt pork in whiskey barrels ; molasses barrels are 
best. 

Virginia Sausage Meat, No. 1. — One bushel of meat, 
chopped very fine; one teacupful of red pepper; one tea- 
cupful of black; one teacupful of sugar; two teacupfuls 
of sage ; one tablespoonful of saltpetre ; salt to taste — all 
powdered fine. 

Mix all well together, taste, and add what seasoning 
seems desirable. 

Virginia Sausage Meat, No. 2. — Pick the sausage meat 
to get out all the pieces of bone and string; wash it in 
lukewarm water and lay it on a table to drain ; let it stand 
all night ; take off some of the fat from the backbone to 
mix with the lean; chop fine, and season as above; pack 



134 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

in a close vessel. If you wish to stuff them, use some 
nicely cleaned chitterlings which have been kept in salt 
and water ten days or a fortnight ; stuff, hang on sticks, 
and dry. A little smoke improves them ; too much makes 
them bitter. 

Sausage, No. 3. — Two pounds of lean pork ; two pounds 
of veal ; two pounds of beef suet ; peel of half a lemon ; 
one grated nutmeg ; one teaspoonf nl of black pepper ; one 
teaspoonful of brown sugar; five teaspoonf uls of salt; 
three teaspoonf nls of sweet marjoram and thyme mixed ; 
juice of a lemon. 

Stuff in cases. This is very good. 

Sausage, No. 4. — Six pounds of lean fresh pork ; three 
pounds of fat ; one grated nutmeg ; twelve teaspoonfuls 
of powdered sage ; six teaspoonfuls of salt ; six teaspoon- 
fuls of black pepper ; two teaspoonfuls of mace ; two tea- 
spoonfuls of cloves. 

Grind the meat in a sausage-mill, mix in the seasoning, 
and pack in stone jars, pouring melted lard on top. 

Bologna Sausage. — Two pounds of lean veal; two 
pounds of pork ; two pounds of beef ; two pounds of fat, 
unsmoked, salt pork ; one pound of beef suet ; four spoon- 
fuls of savory, thyme, parsley, and marjoram ; one grated 
nutmeg ; one teaspoonful of cloves ; two teaspoonfuls of 
black pepper, and the same of red ; one minced onion ; 
salt to taste. 

Grind, mix well, season, and stuff into Beef skins; tie 
them up, prick each skin in several places, put on the fire 
in hot water, and heat gradually to boiling-point; boil 
slowly one hour ; take out the skins and lay on fresh, clean 
straw or hay, in the sun, to dry ; rub the outside of the 
skins with melted butter or fine olive-oil, then with pep- 
per, and hang in a cool, dry place. If properly made and 
hung this sausage will keep two or three weeks. 



MEATS— FORK. 135 

Soused Pig's Feet — Take young and tender feet, cover 
with water, and boil very slowly ; when boiled almost 
to rags take them from the fire and sprinkle a little salt 
over them ; set them away to cool, and when cold remove 
the grease from the top and the bones ; take them from 
the liquor, and add to the liquor an equal quantity of 
strong and good vinegar, also a tablespoonful of brown 
sugar, one and a half tablespoonfuls of salt, whole pepper, 
cloves, and allspice; boil, throw boiling hot water over 
the feet, and set away until cold. 

Truffled Pig's Feet — Clean the pig's feet ; parboil them ; 
make a stuffing of minced cold pork chopped up with salt, 
pepper, a grated eschalot, a little grated ham, and slices of 
truffles, any livers of game or poultry, butter, and a glass- 
ful of white wine; let all this simmer together in a sauce- 
pan ; sprinkle in a little flour to bind the stuffing ; drain 
the pig's feet, take out the bones, stuff them with this 
stuffing, and wrap them up in the membrane that covers 
the fat of pork; shape them well, and boil them. 

Backbone. — Cut every joint apart ; put the backbone 
of the pig in a saucepan ; fricassee it with onions, salt, 
and pepper; keep your saucepan well covered; add some 
sliced tomatoes to the fricassee, and sauce. 

Lyons Sausage. — Six pounds of lean pork ; three pounds 
of tenderloin beef ; three pounds of fat pork ; ten ounces 
of salt ; one ounce of powdered pepper ; one ounce of 
whole black pepper ; one and a half ounces of saltpetre. 

Chop up in a sausage chopper the beef and lean pork ; 
add the fat cut in dice, mix all well together with the sea- 
soning, and set aside twenty-four hours ; stuff this in the 
large intestines of the hog, well cleaned and scraped ; make 
into links, and put them in a deep earthen dish with salt 
and saltpetre; put some heavy weight on them and leave 
them eight days ; then hang them in the chimney to smoke 



136 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. . 

and dry ; when sufficiently smoked take them down, tight- 
en the links, rub them well with the lees of wine in which 
you have boiled thyme, sage, and laurel leaves ; dry them, 
wrap them in paper, and pack them in a box of ashes ; 
keep them in a cool, dry place, and eat them without 
cooking. 

Truffled Sausage a la Creole. — Six pounds of lean fresh 
pork ; three pounds of fat fresh pork ; six teaspoonf uls of 
cayenne pepper (powdered) ; half a teaspoonful of pow- 
dered saltpetre; salt to taste; one medium-sized box of 
truffles, chopped in dice. 

Chop two pounds of fat pork with six pounds of lean; 
add salt, pepper, and saltpetre; chop your remaining pound 
of fat into dice; chop the truffles in the same manner; 
mix well together, and stuff them into the intestines of 
the hog ; smoke slightly. Always broil them on the grid- 
iron. 

Leg of Fresh Pork Stuffed and Roasted. — Take a leg of 
fresh pork ; wash it well ; rub it with salt and pepper; cut 
the skin in squares ; make a stuffing with bread crumbs, on- 
ions, thyme, parsley, salt, and pepper ; bind with egg ; make 
incisions in the pork; stuff with this; roast, basting well, 
and serve with cranberry sauce. 

Smothered Pig's Head. — Clean and split a pig's head; 
take out the brains, and lay them aside ; parboil the head 
and four feet; slice the liver and heart of the pig; stew 
them with slices of bacon, onions, parsley, salt and pep- 
per, and a little water; cut the meat off of the feet, and 
add ; pour all this in the saucepan with the head ; cover 
the saucepan, and stew until the head is done; take it 
out, dress it on a flat dish, and lay around it the slices of 
liver and heart ; strain the gravy, return it to the sauce- 
pan ; throw in the brains (which you have carefully pre- 
pared by washing through several waters) ; let them cook ; 



MEATS— PORK. 137 

pour in a cup of cream ; let it boil up ; add a lump of 
butter; dress the brains around the head, and pour the 
sauce over the head. 

Kentucky Fried Pig's Feet. — Clean the pig's feet, split 
them, sprinkle with salt and pepper, roll them in sifted 
cornmeal, and fry with bacon. 

Stuffed Hog's Head. — Bone a hog's head ; take out the 
tongue and brains; lay the head and brains aside; slice 
the tongue with equal parts of fat and lean pork ; let them 
steep forty-eight hours in a marinade made of equal parts 
of vinegar and water, with sliced onions, parsley, savory, 
estragon, laurel leaf, cloves and nutmeg, salt and pepper ; 
strain these from the marinade and chop them fine, add 
the brains, and stuff your hog's head with this; tie the 
head tightly in a white cloth (floured) giving it a good 
shape ; put it in a deep saucepan with the trimmings and 
bones of the head and one or two feet ; cover it with half 
white wine and water; add thyme, laurel leaf, parsley, 
cloves, salt, and pepper ; cook it eight hours over a slow 
fire ; take the head out, squeeze it hard to extract all the 
liquor, remove the cloth, and serve cold. Keep the sauce- 
pan well covered. 

Blood Pudding. — Three and a half pounds of fresh fat 
pork ; three quarts of blood ; one pint of thick sweet 
cream ; blanch and chop two quarts of onions ; put them 
in a saucepan with eight ounces of lard ; remove the 
fibres from the fat pork (choose that nearest the skin) ; 
cut it in dice, and put this in the saucepan ; add the blood 
and cream, chopped parsley, pepper, salt, and spices; mix 
well ; taste to see if sufficiently seasoned ; stuff this in 
hog entrails; make it into links ten inches long; prick 
them with a needle to prevent them from bursting in 
cooking ; have a caldron of hot water on the stove, throw 
in your blood pudding, and let it cook, never letting i>' 



138 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

boil ; prick them with a needle — if no blood comes out, 
they are done; drain them, wipe them dry with a towel, 
and rub them over with fat bacon skin ; when cold, stick 
them with the point of a knife, and broil them over a 
gentle fire. 

To make the celebrated Boudin de Nancy, add an ap- 
ple marmalade made without sugar. 

Boudin Blanc. — Peel and chop in dice twenty onions, 
blanch them in boiling water, and drain them ; cook them 
in a saucepan with eight ounces of lard ; chop and pound 
equal parts of fat fresh pork and roasted fowl with the 
same quantity of bread crumbs, which have been steeped 
in cream, and squeezed dry \ mix this with the yolks of 
six raw eggs, salt and pepper, and half a pint of sweet 
cream ; pour all this in the saucepan with the onions ; 
mix well together, and stuff just as you would blood pud- 
ding ; cook them in the same manner ; when cold, place 
them on the griddle on a piece of buttered paper, prick 
them slightly, and cook over a gentle fire. 

Sliced Ham, Tomato Sauce. — Make a rich tomato sauce, 
with butter, onions, salt, and pepper ; broil your imcooked 
slices of ham, and pour the sauce over, and serve hot. 

Sliced Ham with Cream Sauce. — Made as above, sub- 
stituting a rich cream sauce for the tomatoes. 

Pate of Pig's Liver. — Three and a half pounds of pig's 
liver ; three pounds of fat salt bacon ; half a pound of 
fresh fat pork. 

Pound in a mortar the liver, bacon, and fat, and mix in 
all the seasoning, salt, pepper, spices, thyme, parsley, chives, 
and laurel leaf; cover the bottom of a mould with thin 
slices of bacon ; put in a layer of the pate, and then alter- 
nate layers of bacon and pate till the mould is filled ; 
cover with strips of lard ; cook it three hours in the stove ; 



MEATS— PORK. 139 

dip the mould in hot water for a moment to remove the 
jpdte / trim it, glaze it, and ornament it with bunches of 
crimped parsley, and slices of hard-boiled eggs. 

Ham Toast. — Grate your cold boiled ham ; season high- 
ly with mustard, salt, and plenty of cayenne pepper; add 
a little butter, mix well, and spread on hot toasted bread. 



POULTRY. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

All poultry should be picked and drawn as soon as 
killed. Never buy undrawn poultry ; it may be uneatable, 
because flavored by the foul contents of the craw and in- 
testines. If you keep poultry, starve for twenty-four 
hours before killing; but even in this case pick and draw 
at once. Never eat poultry until at least eight hours after 
it has been killed ; and, before stuffing it, wash out well 
in at least three waters, putting a pinch of soda into the 
last. The following receipts are available for roasting 
on the spit, for Dutch ovens, or for baking in the range 
oven. 

DIRECTIONS FOR ROASTING GAME AND POULTRY (SOYER). 

Hang up the poultry about ten inches from the fire ; 
let it hang for ten minutes to set the skin ; then press into 
a wooden spoon a piece of butter or lard dripping; when 
the skin is very hot, rub it over with the fat in the spoon 
until all is melted ; then draw it back to about twelve inch- 
es. A good-sized fowl will take three quarters of an hour ; 
chicken, twenty minutes; middle-sized game, one hour; 
turkey, fourteen pounds, two hours and a half ; large hare, 
one hour and a half ; if very young, three quarters of an 
hour. Never baste them ; but, having rubbed them well 
w T ith butter, dredge them carefully. 

Small game should be placed nearer the fire, 
Apple sauce should be served with goose ; currant or 
grape jelly with hare ; fried bread crumbs with grouse ; 
bread sauce with partridge and pheasant. 



POULTRY. 141 

Roast Chicken. — Clean, wash, truss, and stuff with a rich 
forcemeat of bread crumbs, butter, pepper, salt, etc. ; fill 
the bodies and crops of the chickens, sew them up, and 
roast an hour or more,, in proportion to their size, follow- 
ing the directions given above. 

Stew the giblets and necks in just enough water to cov- 
er them ; and when the fowls are removed to a hot dish, 
add the chopped giblets and the liquor to the gravy in the 
dripping-pan ; boil up once, thicken with browned flour, 
boil again, and serve in a gravy-boat. 

Boiled Chicken. — Prepare precisely as above, baste up 
in floured cloths, and put into a pot with enough boiling 
water to cover them well ; stew slowly an hour or more, 
being guided by size and toughness ; serve with egg sauce. 

Spring Chicken, Broiled. — Split the chickens down the 
back, and broil them before the fire in a folding wire- 
broiler, turning them frequently ; dust them with a little 
flour, and baste them with butter; when cooked through 
place them on a hot dish, rub more butter over them, and 
serve hot. 

Fricasseed Chicken, Brown. — Cut up the chicken, fry 
the pieces a light brown, and put them in a stewpan with 
sufficient gravy, already prepared ; thicken the gravy with 
butter and flour, and color it with burned sugar; season 
with mace, salt, pepper, and a glassful of burned sherry. 

Fricasseed Chicken, White, No. 1. — Joint the chickens, 
and lay them in salt and water for one hour ; then put 
them on to boil in a small quantity of water, with mace, 
pepper, and salt ; add half a pint of cream or milk thick- 
ened with butter and flour rolled together; just before 
serving, dust with roasted powdered parsley. 

Fricasseed Chicken, White, No. 2. — Make a little white 



142 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

gravy with veal trimmings, mace, onion, salt, and white 
pepper; when sufficiently done, strain the liquor from the 
meat, and return it to the saucepan ; have the chicken cut 
up and place it in this gravy; stew gently until it is well 
cooked ; then thicken the gravy with well-mixed butter 
and flour; beat into a gill of cream the yolks of two 
eggs, and pour it into the saucepan just before taking it 
from the fire. 

Chicken and Tomatoes. — Four small chickens cut in 
pieces; six large tomatoes; two onions; three large green 
peppers, seeds and veins removed ; small bunch of sweet 
herbs; a slice of salt pork cut into dice; three cloves; a 
few peppercorns ; half a tumblerful of white wine, and 
one of water; a large piece of butter; one teacupful of 
rice well washed and picked. 

Put all in a stewpan, and let it cook slowly together. 

GMolcen Pie (Albany receipt). — A tender young chick- 
en cut into small pieces ; put it into a small pan with a 
little salt and a blade of mace, and cover it with water; 
cover closely and cook until tender; line a deep dish with 
puff paste, and cut some squares of paste with a jagging- 
iron ; when the chicken is cooked, put it into the dish with 
the squares of paste, also a lump of butter, some pepper, 
and a little rich cream ; add, also, the liquor in which the 
chicken was cooked, thickened with butter and flour; cov- 
er with paste and bake in a quick oven. 

Chicken Potjpie. — Make a fairly rich paste ; cut it into 
long, broad strips, and line the pot with it, placing them 
like the staves of a barrel; cut a large, tine chicken into 
small pieces, salt and pepper it, and put it into the pot 
with a quarter of an onion minced fine, two potatoes sliced 
thinly, and some large, flat dumplings of rich paste; rub 
some flour and butter together, stir in some hot water, and 
make the mixture smooth ; pour this over the chicken, 



POULTRY. 143 

and if it is not enough to cover it add a little warm milk 
and water; then turn the tops of the crust lining the pot 
over the chicken, and make a lid of crust to go over the 
whole; a hole in the middle of this must be left for the 
gravy to bubble through ; the crust must be thick ; when 
the pie is cooked, serve it on a large dish, place the chick- 
en in the middle, and arrange the pieces which lined the 
pot, and ought to be well browned, on the outside, putting 
the softer crust and dumplings inside. 

Chicken Pudding. — Four chickens ; ten eggs beaten 
light ; one quart of milk mixed with the eggs ; a quarter 
of a pound of butter melted, with the eggs; flour enough 
to make a batter stirred in last of all. 

Cut up the chickens in large pieces, and put them in a 
saucepan with salt, pepper, parsley, a stick of celery, and 
as little water as will cook them ; let them simmer until 
tender; then take the chicken from the water and place it 
in a deep baking-dish ; pour the batter over all and bake it. 

Chicken Pillau. — One chicken ; one teacupful of rice, 
well washed and soaked for an hour ; pepper and salt to 
taste ; one blade of mace. 

Cut up the chicken as for fricassee ; let it simmer slow- 
ly with just enough water to cover it ; when it has cooked 
for twenty minutes add the seasoning; allow it to cook a 
little longer, or until quite tender; then take it off the 
fire, drain the rice, and put it in the pot with about a pint 
of the liquor in which the chicken was boiled ; salt it, and 
let it boil till nearly done ; then drain off most of the liq- 
uor, put the chicken into the middle of the rice, and stew r 
gently. 

Florida Pillau. — One fat chicken cut up in small 
pieces; one onion; one clove of garlic; five tomatoes; 
one piece of pork. 

Fry all the above ingredients lightly in butter; then 



144 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

put into a pot a pint of rice, water enough to cover it, a 
little salt, pepper, and allspice, the chicken, pork, and veg- 
etables, and cook all slowly together ; when the rice is suf- 
ficiently cooked, put the pot on one side of the fire to sim- 
mer gently until it is time to serve it. 

Baked Pillaa. — Two boiled fowls cut up in small 
pieces. Reserve a part of the water in which the fowls 
have been cooked in which to boil the rice, keeping the rest 
to add afterwards ; when the rice is done mix it with but- 
ter, lay one half in the bottom of a deep dish, lay the fowls 
upon it, and put the other half of the rice on top, add- 
ing the remainder of the liquor ; then spread over all the 
well-beaten yolks of two eggs, and bake it in a moderate 
oven. 

Pressed Chicken. — Put a fowl into a porcelain-lined ket- 
tle with salt, a few whole cloves and whole allspice, but no 
water ; cook two hours or more a bain-marie / then remove 
the skin and bones, chop the dark and light meat together, 
and place them in a dish ; pour over it the strained liquor 
which remained in the kettle ; let it cool, then fold it tight- 
ly in a cloth, and press with a heavy weight ; slice and 
serve cold. 

Fried Chicken. — Cut the chickens in pieces, and season 
them with pepper and salt and a dust of meal ; then frj 
them in butter, lay them on paper, and cover them to keep 
them warm ; then pour the grease out of the frying-pan, 
and put into it a teacupful of cream, a blade of mace, a 
little salt and pepper, a saltspoonful of flour, and a tea- 
spoonful of butter mixed together; let these simmer to- 
gether a few minutes; place the chicken on a hot dish, 
and pour the sauce over it. 

Chicken Pie. — Cut one or two chickens. in small pieces; 
put them in a saucepan with a little water, pepper, salt, a 



POULTKY. 145 

blade of mace, and a stick of celery ; cover closely, and let 
the chicken simmer slowly, turning it often ; when nearly 
cooked take the chicken out of the water ; skim the water, 
and stir in a thickening of flour mixed well with butter ; 
let it thicken over the fire a short time. In the meanwhile 
line a deep baking-dish with rich puff paste ; place the 
chicken in it, together with some hard-boiled eggs cut in 
slices, and the giblets ; add the liquor from the saucepan, 
cover the dish with, paste, and bake just long enough to 
bake the crust. 

Chicken Breasts (Florentine fashion). — Take the breasts 
of several chickens together with the white meat ; prepare 
the breasts by trimming each one into the shape of a cut- 
let ; then make a mince of chicken breasts, the yolks of 
two hard-boiled eggs, and some finely rolled bread crumbs ; 
pound this mince to a paste in the mortar, and then press 
it through a colander; add enough rich, fresh cream to 
bind all together ; flavor with a tiny pinch of nutmeg, a 
coffeespoonful of roasted powdered parsley, and two drops 
of essence of celery, salt and pepper to taste; then with a 
broad-bladed silver or wooden knife spread the mince 
smoothly, thickly, and evenly upon the chicken breasts ; 
it should be fully half an inch thick. Have ready equal 
quantities of tongue and ham cut into tiny rounds and 
lozenges ; dot the chicken breasts with these ; arrange the 
chicken breasts in a large stewpan, so disposing them as 
to leave a small space between each one ; put in a liberal 
lump of fresh butter, and stew over a slow fire for an 
hour; when the butter has been absorbed add enough 
broth to keep the chicken breasts from burning. This is 
a favorite dish all through Italy, where it is possible to 
buy the breasts of a chicken in market without buying 
the whole chicken. I can vouch for the dish as being a 
delicious and pretty entree. 

/Stewed Chicken with White Stuffing. — Pick, draw, and 

7 



146 THE UNKIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

wash the chicken in three waters, adding a little soda to 
the last but one. Prepare the stuffing as follows : Boil a 
quart of good milk with two sticks of celery, a little thyme, 
laurel, basil, and coriander seeds until it is reduced to one 
half ; strain, and add two ounces of bread crumbs ; re- 
place the casserole on the lire, and keep it there until 
the milk has absorbed all the bread ; then remove it from 
the fire, add more bread crumbs, salt and pepper to taste, 
twelve almonds blanched and powdered to a paste, a pinch 
of nutmeg, and the yolks of five hard-boiled eggs ; mix 
well and smoothly together; then stuff the chicken, sew 
it up, cover it closely and carefully with sliced ham, and 
stew in milk until tender; serve with a white sauce. 

Capon with Truffles. — When the capon is picked, singed, 
drawn, and cleaned ready for roasting, peel and scrape clean 
some truffles, and scald them in boiling melted butter, 
with a little pepper and salt ; fill the capon entirely with 
the truffles so prepared ; sew up the opening, and envelope 
the capon carefully and thoroughly in white paper, but- 
tered, and put it in a cool, dry place, for two days or less, 
if the weather be warm ; then roast it in freshly buttered 
paper. When the capon is nearly cooked the paper should 
be removed, and the capon basted with butter until it as- 
sumes a fine brown color. 

Capon with Malaga Wine. — Prepare a capon as above, 
substituting, however, a simple ordinary stuffing for the 
truffles. When the two days have expired, put the capon 
in a casserole with some fried onions and ham ; add 
half a bottlef ul of Malaga wine, cover the top of the casserole 
with buttered paper, and again with a casserole cover; 
cook, the capon over a slow fire, and serve it with the sauce 
in which it has been cooked, which should be strained to 
free it from grease, and thickened either with browned 
bread crumbs or with pounded chestnuts. A handful of 
finely sliced truffles is a great improvement to this sauce. 



POULTRY. 147 

Capon a la Crime. — Take a roasted capon and remove 
the breast, which pound to a pulp in a mortar ; add to 
this some bread crumbs which have been boiled in milk 
until quite soft, and which should be smoothly mixed 
with the capon breast; add also about half a pound of 
beef suet, some cold ham finely minced, a small shallot, 
some grated parsley, the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs, 
two truffles sliced finely, and salt and pepper to taste ; add 
enough good fresh cream to bind all together; stuff the 
capon with this, and re-form the breasts, glazing the capon 
with beaten white of eggs, and covering it thickly with 
lightly browned bread crumbs ; then place the capon in 
a covered casserole, enveloping it with thin slices of ham. 
It should cook until thoroughly heated through and 
through. Then place on a very hot dish and serve. 

Roast Buck Stuffed with Celery. — Clean, wash, and wipe 
the ducks very carefully. To the usual dressing add one 
half the quantity of stewed celery, and a minced shallot. 
Stuff and sew up as usual, reserving the giblets for the 
gravy. If tender, the ducks will not require more than an 
hour to roast. They should be well basted. Skim the 
gravy before putting in the giblets and thickening. The 
giblets should be stewed in a very little water, then chopped 
fine, and added to the gravy in the dripping-pan, with a 
chopped shallot, and a spoonful of brown flour. Accom- 
pany with currant or grape jelly. 

Salted Ducks (Italian monastery). — The ducks should 
be drawn as soon as possible after being killed, the inside 
thoroughly washed through four waters, third wash being 
given with soda water, the last with fresh cold water. They 
should then be picked, singed, and hung up for two days. 
The legs, wings, breast, and the fleshy part of the stomach 
should then be neatl} T cut off, thoroughly covered with 
salt, and placed in an earthenware vessel, taking care to 
exclude the air by a thick layer of salt. Let them remain 



148 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

thus for fifteen days, then rinse in cold water, afterwards in 
vinegar, then stick the pieces of duck rather thickly with 
cloves ; sprinkle them with celery seed and sweet herbs, 
among which should be some laurel leaves ; a very little 
nitre should also be sprinkled over them in order to give 
the flesh a bright red color. They should then be placed 
in jars, and covered with brine. On top of the brine pour 
olive-oil. The oil should be about an inch deep. 

Roast Goose. — Clean and wash the goose, putting a tea- 
spoonful of soda into the last water but one ; stuff with 
bread crumbs, salt, pepper, a tablespoonful of melted butter, 
a large onion chopped line, a large roast apple ditto, a table- 
spoonful of chopped sage, the yolks of two eggs, and some 
tiny dice of fat pork; stuff body and craw, and sew up. 
If the fire be clear and fierce, and the goose a large one, it 
will take fully two hours to roast. Cover the breast until 
half done with buttered paper, or a paste of flour and water, 
removing this when you are ready to brown ; make a 
gravy as for roast duck, adding a glassful of old port, if pos- 
sible, and send to the table with apple sauce. 

Roast Guinea Fowls. — Pick, clean, wash, and stuff as 
you would chickens, adding to the stuffing a little minced 
ham. Roast as you would chickens, basting liberally with 
butter. Season the gravy with a chopped shallot, and with 
summer savory ; add the giblets, and thicken with browned 
flour. 

Goose Pie. — An old goose stewed for jive hours or 
more ; a smoked beef's tongue parboiled ; six hard-boiled 
eggs. 

Put on the goose in just cold water enough to cover it, 
and stew slowly and steadily, adding water, if needed, 
from the boiling kettle ; when cooked, cut all the meat 
from the bones; lay the bones and skin aside, chop the 
giblets; line a deep pudding-dish with good paste, lay in 



POULTRY. 149 

the pieces of goose, the chopped giblets, the sliced tongue 
and egg, in consecutive layers ; intersperse with strips of 
paste, season with pepper, salt, and bits of butter, and pro- 
ceed in this order until the dish is full ; add the gravy 
in which the goose was stewed, thickened with browned 
flour; cover with thick paste, and brush the top with 
beaten white of egg. 

Poast Pigeons. — Pick, draw, clean, and stuff as you 
would chickens; lay them in rows, with a little water 
poured into the pan, to prevent their scorching. Unless 
they are very fat, baste with butter until they are half 
done, then with their own gravy. When cooked, thicken 
the gravy that drips from them, and boil up once, then 
pour into the gravy-boat. 

Broiled Pi-geons or Squabs. — Pick, clean, wash, and dry 
carefully with a clean cloth ; then split .down the back, and 
broil like chickens ; season with pepper and salt, and but- 
ter liberally while dishing them. 

Pigeon Pie. — Clean, wash, truss, and stuff them ; loosen 
the joints with a knife, parboil them for ten minutes while 
you prepare a puff paste ; line a deep dish with this, put 
in the bottom some shreds of lean ham, them some hard- 
boiled eggs, sliced, buttered, and peppered, then the birds 
sprinkled with pepper and minced parsley ; squeeze some 
lemon juice upon them, and lay upon the breast pieces of 
butter rolled in flour ; cover with slices of eggs, then with 
shred ham ; pour in some of the gravy in which the pigeons 
were parboiled, and cover with paste, leaving a hole in the 
lid ; bake an hour. This pie is best made of wild pigeons. 

Boned Pigeons. — Take four good-sized pigeons ; draw, 
wash, and bone them, then fill with the following stuffing: 
One quarter of a pound of ham, one quarter of a pound 
of tongue, one half pound of chicken breast, or the white 



150 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

meat of a chicken, two ounces of truffles, the yolk of two 
eggs, some bread crumb soaked in beef broth, a few drops of 
essence of celery, a teaspoonf ul of roasted powdered parsley, 
the grated rind of one quarter of a lemon, and a pinch 
of nutmeg; salt and pepper to taste; chop all the in- 
gredients finely, then mix well together and press through 
a colander ; stuff the pigeons as full as possible ; bind 
them firmly and securely with clean twine, and arrange 
them side by side in a stewpan, putting in a liberal lump 
of butter; cover the stewpan closely, and let them cook 
over a slow fire for an hour. The cook should uncover 
the casserole from time to time, in order to see when the 
butter is absorbed, at which point some good broth should 
be added, in order to prevent the pigeons from burning. 
Serve cold. (Excellent) 

Stewed Ditch. — Clean and divide as for fricassee. Put 
into a saucepan with several slices of lean cold ham or 
salt pork, minced fine, and stew slowly, closely eovered^for 
an hour ; then stir in a large chopped onion, half a tea- 
spoonf nl of powdered sage, as much parsley, a tablespoonf ul 
of catsup, and black pepper; stew until tender, then add a 
teaspoonf ul of brown sugar, and a tablespoonf ul of browned 
flour, mixed with cold water; boil up once, and serve in a 
deep covered dish, with green pease as an accompaniment. 

Stewed Pigeons. — Pick, draw, clean, and stuff as for 
roasting. Put the pigeons into a deep pot with enough 
cold water to cover them, and stew gently for half an hour ; 
then put in a little ham cut into strips, and stew until, 
testing with a fork, you find them tender; then season 
with pepper, salt, a few blades of mace, a little sweet 
marjoram, and a good piece of butter; let them simmer 
for five minutes longer, then stir in a teaspoonfnl of 
browned flour; let it boil up once, then take out the 
pigeons, remove the strings, and put into a deep dish, 
pouring the hot gravy over them. 



POULTRY. 151 

Boast Turkey. — The turkey should be young and plump. 
It should be roasted on the spit, or before the fire in a 
roaster, and frequently basted. The body and craw should 
be stuffed with bread stuffing, or with equal quantities 
of boiled chestnuts and ham, chopped fine, and duly 
seasoned with butter, pepper, and salt, or with a bread 
stuffing mixed with lightly fried and finely chopped sau- 
sages. It should be basted frequently. The gravy must 
be made in a saucepan, from the drippings in the roaster, 
carefully skimming the fat. Chop up the liver as finely as 
possible, and add it to the gravy. The time required for 
cooking must depend upon the size of the bird ; serve on 
a hot dish, with a wreath of water-cresses round it. Cran- 
berry sauce or jelly should always accompany roast turkey. 

Boast Turkey with Plum-Pudding Stuffing. — Prepare 
for roasting as above, and make a stuffing with bread 
crumbs, butter, salt, pepper, and an egg well beaten ; also 
a teacupful of large Malaga or Sultana raisins, carefully 
seeded; mix well, but do not wet the dressing; stuff the 
craw first, and sew it up ; then stuff the body of the turkey, 
leaving room for the raisins to swell. Roast as above 
directed. If the turkey is to be eaten cold, take out the 
dressing, moisten it with a little gravy, and serve it alone, 
very hot. 

, Wild Turkey should always be prepared with a chestnut 
stuffing, to which add much butter, as wild turkey is apt 
to be dry ; roast and baste as for domestic turkey, allowing 
one pound of good butter for basting a large wild turkey. 

Braised Turkey. — Truss a large turkey as for boiling ; 
stuff it with chestnuts, rolled bread crumbs, finely minced 
ham, and two or three truffles; add sweet herbs and onion 
to taste, and a little butter, as otherwise the dressing is apt 
to be too dry ; lard the breast of the turkey very delicately ; 
line the bottom of a braising-pan with slices of bacon and 



152 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

ham ; lay the turkey on these, and place more slices of 
bacon and ham on the top of it; put in two carrots and 
two onions cut in slices, and sweet herbs, parsley, bay leaf, 
a clove of garlic, and whole pepper; salt to taste, and 
moisten with some good strong stock and a tumblerful of 
sherry ; lay a round of buttered paper on top, put on the 
lid, and braise with a moderate lire under and over for 
four hours ; serve with the gravy strained, and freed from 
excess of fat. 

Pressed Turkey in Jelly. — Take a large, tender turkey ; 
make a stuffing of bread crumbs, chopped pork fat, a 
minced onion, pepper, and salt ; stuff the craw and inside 
of the turkey as full as possible, and sew them up ; put it 
in a pot just large enough to hold it, with one pound of 
lean beef, shredded fine, two calves' feet, and salt to taste; 
let it simmer slowly for several hours, keeping the lid of 
the pot on, and adding boiling water, if the turkey should 
not continue covered; when the turkey appears thoroughly 
cooked, take it off the fire, and put it away to cool ; let the 
stock cook until the meat falls from the bones of the 
calves' feet; then set it away to cool; in the morning re- 
move the fat, and put it (the stock) on the fire, in a kettle 
perfectly free from grease; if the stock be not firmly jellied, 
add enough gelatine to stiffen it ; add also salt to taste, a 
tablespoonful of sugar, a blade of mace, and the whites 
of two or three eggs to clear it ; if the jelly is too light in 
color, add a little caramel coloring, and a few drops of 
lemon juice. Cut the turkey into small pieces, about two 
inches long ; have ready some cold smoked tongue or ham, 
minced fine, and mix this evenly with the stuffing; then 
pack the turkey in alternate layers of turkey and stuffing, 
in a tall, wide stone pot ; when all is in, pour the hot jelly 
slowly over it, allowing it to run well through the whole ; 
put the pot in a very cold place, and take out the turkey 
when needed, after the jelly has become hard; serve with 
capers or tiny pickled peppers. 



POULTRY. 153 

Turkey alia Triestdna. — Prepare the turkey as for 
roasting, and put it into a saucepan with some pieces of 
fat bacon, an onion, sliced, a carrot, and some celery, all 
chopped line; add also two calves' feet, a piece of but- 
ter, and the liver, etc., of the turkey; let all fry until of 
a light brown color, then pour in enough broth to almost 
cover the turkey, and a liqueurglassful of the very finest 
old brandy ; cover the casserole hermetically, and let it cook 
over a slow fire until done ; then serve in the sauce in 
which it has been cooked, which should be strained to free 
it from fat. A tablespoonful of tomato catsup is a great 
improvement to this sauce. It should be added just be- 
fore sending it to table. 

Jellied Turkey. — Take a large, fine turkey, pick, singe, 
draw, and clean it ; lard it with ham ; then wrap it com- 
pletely in thin slices of bacon and veal, and sprinkle over 
it a little fried onion chopped fine, and several pieces of 
lemon freed from rind and seed ; place it in a casserole 
and pour in enough bouillon and white wine to almost 
cover it in the proportion of two thirds bouillon to one 
third white wine; cover the casserole hermetically, if pos- 
sible, and cook over a slow fire for four hours ; then put 
the turkey on a dish and proceed to strain the broth in 
which it has cooked. If the broth should not be thick 
enough to jelly, return it to the fire for a few minutes; 
in order to clear it throw in the beaten white of an egg 
while the broth is cooling; then replace it on the fire, 
allow it to boil up once or twice, and strain it through a 
cloth ; when it begins to cool pour it slowly and care- 
fully over the turkey, taking care to do this so evenly that 
the turkey may be thoroughly encased in the jelly ; serve 
cold, garnishing with crisp lettuce leaves and celery. 

Roast Duck icith Olives. — Prepare the duck as for 
roasting, and fill it completely with large Spanish olives 
carefully stoned ; then sew up the opening, put the duck 

7* 



154 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

on the spit, or in the oven, and roast as usual. If tender, 
the duck will not require more than an hour to roast It 
should he well basted. Roast duck with olives is gener- 
ally best cold. 

Boiled Turkey. — Stuff with a bread stuffing in the body 
and craw ; tie the legs and wings close to the body be- 
fore putting it into the pot ; when the flesh begins to 
crack open about the legs it will be cooked enough ; serve 
with a rich oyster or equally rich celery sauce. 

Imitation Boned Ttirkey. — Take a large, fine turkey; 
stuff the inside and craw with a rich forcemeat; take 
care to bind the legs and wings so tightly to the body as 
almost to imbed them in it, making the outside as nearly 
as possible a plain surface ; simmer it gently until ten- 
der, in as little water as will cook it, turning it often ; 
have prepared a rich meat jelly, clear and well flavored ; 
place the turkey, breast downwards, in a deep oval vessel, 
and pour the jelly over it; set it in a cold place; when 
quite cold, set the vessel an instant in hot water to turn 
out the jelly, then dish ; place some fragments of jelly on 
the top, with a sprig of curled parsley. 

Boned Turkey. — Cut off the neck and claws, remove 
the drumsticks, and leave the wings, which must be care- 
fully boned ; then put the turkey on a clean cloth, cut 
open the back, and very carefully remove all the bones, 
taking care also not to spoil or gash the skin ; then, with 
a larding needle, carefully lard the breast of the turkey 
and whatever other part admits of larding ; make a stuff- 
ing of veal, fillet of beef, fat pork chopped into small 
dice, bread crumbs rolled fine and mixed with savory 
herbs, salt and pepper to taste, small triangular bits of 
cold tongue, a few truffles sliced fine, and yolks of two or 
three hard-boiled eggs cut into thick slices; fill the inte- 
rior of the turkey with alternate layers of this stuffing and 



POULTRY. 155 

the thinnest possible slices of cold veal and lean ham; 
when stuffed sew up the aperture carefully, and rub the 
turkey over with lemon juice ; do this thoroughly, and 
then envelop the turkey in thin slices of ham ; sew it 
up afterwards in a clean muslin cloth, which should previ- 
ously have been dipped in sherry wine ; cook it for three 
hours, proceeding as for turkey alia Triestina ; when 
quite cold remove the cloth, and serve the turkey in the 
jelly in which it was cooked. This jelly should be clari- 
fied. 

Devilled Turkey. — Take a cooked leg of turkey; slash 
it to the bone ; salt and pepper it well, using both black 
and cayenne ; mix some made mustard with flour, and 
plaster it over the leg ; place it on a gridiron, and boil 
over a clear fire. 

Scalloped Turkey. — Butter a deep dish, line it with 
bread crumbs, and pnt in the bottom a layer of bread 
crumbs seasoned with butter, pepper, and salt, then a layer 
of cold turkey chopped fine, and so on until the dish is 
full, adding the stuffing and gravy of the turkey ; then 
beat together two eggs, add to them two tablespoonf uls of 
milk, butter, salt, pepper, and rolled cracker crumbs; 
spread thickly over the top of the turkey ; bake half an 
hour, keeping it covered for twenty minutes, then remove 
the cover, and brown. 



GAME. 

See " General Directions" for Poultry, page 140. 

To Preserve Game Untainted. — Draw ; rinse thoroughly 
with soda and water, then with pure cold water; wipe 
dry; put in the cavity of each bird a piece of charcoal, 
and rub the birds lightly with fine salt and a very little 
black pepper. Hang in a cool, dark place with a clean 
cloth thrown over them. 

Reed or Ortolans. — Pluck, but do not draw, these birds ; 
cover them with strips of lard, and roast on skewers. 

Gras Grasses. — These little birds infest the prickly- 
ash trees in July and August, in the Southern States, 
and are killed by scores with mustard-seed shot; and 
are so fat that they often burst in falling to the ground. 
Pluck, but never draw them; wrap each one in a vine leaf 
and roast on skewers. 

Caille de Laurier. — These birds are considered the 
greatest delicacy in the South, where they fatten on 
the seed of the magnolia. Pluck and draw your birds, 
put a magnolia seed in each one, and roast on skewers. 
Cut slices of bread the same size, toast carefully, and 
place them in the dripping-pan under the birds. They re- 
quire only twenty minutes to cook. Serve each bird on a 
slice of the toasted bread. 

Wild Ducks (stewed). — Clean, draw, wash, wipe; put 



GAME. 157 

in a raw carrot or onion, and boil ten minutes. Then lay 
in very cold water half an hour; then cut up, pepper, 
salt, flour them, and fry to a light brown ; put them in a 
saucepan and cover with a gravy made of the giblets, 
necks, and some bits of lean veal ; add a minced shallot, 
a bunch of sweet herbs, salt, and pepper; cover closely 
and stew until tender; take out the duck, skim and 
strain the gravy, return to the fire, and put in a cup of 
rich cream in which an egg has been beaten, thicken witli 
browned flour, add a tablespoonful of wine and the juice 
of half a lemon, beaten in gradually, boil up, and pour 
over the ducks. 

Wild-Pigeon Pie. — Make this precisely as you make 
quail pie, except that the pigeons are cut up and are not 
stuffed. The gravy should be much richer, made with 
strong stock and thickened by a lump of butter rolled in 
browned flour. 

Wild Pucks (roasted). — Prepare as you prepare other 
game, and roast for half or three quarters of an hour, ac- 
cording to size. 

Canvas-back Pucks. — Canvas-back ducks must be roast- 
ed quickly, before a brisk fire, to keep the juices from 
flowing out ; from fifteen to thirty minutes is the range 
allowed to suit different tastes. They should never be 
stuffed or dressed in any way ; and are always eaten very 
much underdone, so that a rich, high-colored blood will 
follow the knife. 

Squabs in Clives. — Clean them nicely and lay them in 
salt and water ; take a quarter of a pound of butter, a 
quarter of an onion, three tablespoonfuls of flour, and a 
little mace, cloves, pepper, and salt, and stew all together 
for half an hour; then add the squabs, the olives stoned, 
and let all stew slowly for an hour longer. 



158 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Roast Wild Ducks. — Pluck and draw the duck ; put in 
a little salt and two sage leaves. This imparts a delicious 
flavor. Roast on a spit, and baste with melted butter. 

Teal Ducks. — These are best broiled. Pluck, draw, and 
split down the back ; sprinkle with a little salt and pep- 
per ; broil over a quick fire, and serve with a little melted 
butter in which you have chopped parsley and a little 
lemon juice ; pour this over at the last moment. 

Duck with Olives. — Pluck and draw your duck ; cook 
it in a saucepan with half butter and lard ; pour this out ; 
make a roux with a spoonful of flour and some fresh but- 
ter ; add some bouillon, salt, pepper, and a soup bunch ; 
return your duck, and when it is nearly done throw in 
some olives which you have stoned; let them cook five 
minutes ; serve your, duck surrounded by the olives ; skim 
the sauce, and serve in a sauce-boat. 

Broiled Game. — Clean, wash, and split down the back; 
lay in cold water half an hour ; wipe carefully ; season 
with salt and pepper, and broil on a buttered gridiron over 
a clear, fierce fire ; when done lay in a hot dish, butter 
both sides well, and serve at once. 

Salmi of Game, No. 1. — Put together for gravy all the 
dressing, skin, and odds and ends of your cold game ; put 
into a saucepan with a slice of ham, a minced shallot, and 
a bunch of sweet herbs; pour on a pint of strong broth, 
and stew, closely covered, for almost an hour; then skim 
and strain, return to the fire, thicken with browned flour, 
add a soupgon of nutmeg, a little lemon juice, and a wine- 
glassful of burned sherry. Meanwhile the game must 
have been neatly cut up, and placed in another saucepan 
to heat ; pour over the sauce, heat smoking hot, dish, and 
serve. 



GAME. 159 

Salmi, No. 2 (Gouffe). — Bone the game and chop the 
meat fine ; then pound it in a mortar to a paste ; when 
pounded to a smooth paste, moisten with a little bouillon ; 
when it is quite smooth, press the paste through a sieve. 
Meanwhile, heat in a casserole a little butter, the pieces of 
skin, dressing, the bones, etc., of the game ; add a little 
strong broth, a tablespoonful of good red wine, two shal- 
lots, and a bunch of sweet herbs ; thicken with browned 
flour ; when it has cooked half an hour add two teaspoon- 
f uls of olive-oil and the juice of a lemon ; boil up once, 
then strain ; meanwhile heat the paste ; when thoroughly 
heated place the paste on croutons of fried bread, garnish 
with slices of lemon, pour over the sauce, and serve. If 
this salmi should be made of partridge, it may be garnished 
in December with slices of bitter orange. 

Salmi, Cold, of Goose or Duck. — This salmi should be 
prepared at table. Carve the bird nicely ; rub the liver 
and lights to a smooth paste ; add the cold gravy, two or 
three spoonfuls of olive-oil, the juice of a lemon, salt and 
pepper to taste ; work to a smooth dressing of the consist- 
ency of mayonnaise, and serve with the cold game. 

Chaudfroid (Cuisiniere Parisienne). — Cut up the cold 
game very carefully ; arrange it with equal care on a 
large, round dish, building up the cold game into a pyra- 
mid ; pour over all a rich sauce, which will jelly when 
cold. Aspic jelly, or clarified calves'-foot jelly, flavored 
with strong stock, are best for this. Garnish, when cold, 
with sliced lemon, curled lettuce, etc. 

Salmi Glace (or sauce chaudfroid). — Make a good sauce 
veloute / strain free from grease, and add a third of the 
quantity of aspic jelly ; put on the fire and boil until it 
thickens ; then remove the saucepan from the fire, stir in 
the yolks of three eggs well beaten, strain, and set away 
to cool; when cool, and before it forms, spread it careful- 



160 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

]j over jonr pieces of cold game, being careful to cover 
or ice them completely ; when cold arrange in a dish, and 
garnish with pickled mushrooms. 

Game Pie. — It is well to make this of different kinds of 
game. Clean and wash the birds, cutting the smaller ones 
in half, the larger into four pieces ; trim off the inferior 
portions of the birds, and put them into the saucepan with 
the giblets, and a pint and a half of broth for six birds. 
While this is stewing, make a good puff paste and line, a 
large pudding-dish, reserving enough for a lid f ully half 
an inch thick ; lard the breasts of the birds with tiny bits 
of salt pork, and make a forcemeat of the cooked livers, a 
couple of slices of pork, a bunch of parsley, sweet marjo- 
ram and thyme, the juice of a lemon, and a tiny shallot; 
pepper and mix with rolled bread crumbs moistened with 
milk ; put some thin strips of cold corned ham in the bot- 
tom of the pie, then some pieces of bird well buttered, 
then a layer of forcemeat, and so on until the dish is full ; 
then strain the gravy, return to the fire, pepper, and add 
a glassful of wine ; pour boiling hot into the pie ; put on 
the lid — cutting a hole in the middle — and bake three 
hours. 

Jugged Hare. — Cut the hare in pieces and lay in a stone 
jar; grate a Spanish onion; have ready a muslin bag with 
all kinds of seasoning— hot peppers, sage, thyme, and round 
peppers ; put all the blood in a pint-and-a-half basin, fill 
up with water, and mix as much flour with this as will 
make it the thickness of good cream ; put all into the jar, 
adding Worcestershire sauce and salt, a wineglassful of 
port wine, a heaping tablespoonful of currant jelly, and 
half a lemon sliced fine ; put a plate on the mouth of the 
jar, and tie tightly down ; cook three hours a bain-marie. 

Boast Ortolans (Brillat Savarin). — The art of knowing 
how to roast ortolans consists in the fact they must never 



GAME. 161 

be approached by salt ; this destroys their peculiarly deli- 
cate flavor. When they are picked, drawn, and cleaned — 
ready for roasting — they should be filled with fresh, un- 
salted butter; they should then be tied in small, thick 
slices of light, white bread (unsalted bread is best), and so 
arranged on the spit, roasting over a clear, though slow, 
fire. The cook should baste them continually with a lit- 
tle fresh butter, and later with their own dripping ; a few 
moments before serving the bread should be untied and 
placed in the dripping-pan, and the ortolans basted until 
they assume a delicate brown color ; they should be served 
with the bread in which they have been roasted. 

Partridge Pie. — Line a deep dish with puff paste ; put 
a layer of thin slices of ham at the bottom of the dish, and 
on this a layer of veal, chopped finely and passed through 
a sieve; then cut up four partridges ; season them lightly 
with salt, pepper, a little chopped parsley, and thyme; 
pour in a pint of very good gravy ; cover with puff paste, 
and bake an hour; glaze the upper crust with white of 
egg- 

Roast Partridge. — Clean, truss, and stuff as } t ou do 
chickens ; roast at a hot fire, and baste with butter and 
water until brown; sprinkle with salt; dredge lightly, at 
the last, with flour to froth the birds, and serve hot ; thick- 
en the gravy in the dripping-pan with browned flour, boil 
up once, and serve in a boat. Cream sauce, ~No. 2, is de- 
licious with roast partridge. 

Broiled Partridge. — Clean, wash, and split down the 
back ; lay in cold water half an hour ; wipe carefully, sea- 
son with salt and pepper, and broil on a buttered gridiron 
over a clear fire ; when done, lay on a hot dish, butter 
both sides well, and serve at once. 

Louis's Perdrix aux Chaux. — Cut two partridges in 



162 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

quarters ; put them in a saucepan with a little lard, slices 
of ham, and sausage ; let them cook half done ; blanch a 
fine, white-head cabbage in boiling salt and water ; drain 
and split in half ; cut out the heart of the cabbage, and 
stuff the cabbage with the partridge, ham, and sausage ; 
tie it up tightly together ; line the bottom of a saucepan 
with slices of onions and strips of breakfast bacon or ham ; 
put your cabbage on this; cover your saucepan closely, 
and cook over a gentle fire till done ; remove the strings 
from the cabbage ; serve with the sauce in which it has 
cooked poured over it. 

Partridge with Chestnuts. — Pluck, draw, and singe 
your bird over a quick blaze ; Jard it with fine strips of lard, 
seasoned with salt and pepper; put it in a saucepan with 
a soup-bunch, strips of lard, a glassful of white wine, a glass- 
ful of good bouillon and salt, and a little pepper ; cook slow- 
ly and take your bird out of the saucepan when done; 
strain your gravy; have ready fifty good boiled chest- 
nuts, peeled ; pound them in a mortar, moisten them 
with the gravy, pass them through a colander, serve your 
bird on the puree, always surrounded by fried croutons. 

Snipe en Salmis. — Cut up any cold roast snipe; put 
them in a saucepan with the livers and entrails well chopped ; 
add chopped eschalots, a glassful of white wine, salt, and 
pepper ; let it boil a few minutes, take out the pieces of 
bird, lay them on toasted slices of bread on a dish, and 
pour the gravy over them and serve. 

Grilled Partridge. — Draw, clean, and wash the par- 
tridge ; wipe dry, and split and arrange for broiling ; put 
it into a deep dish which has been well rubbed with 
garlic; sprinkle with salt and pepper, a little chopped 
parsley, a leaf or two of laurel, and some very fine olive- 
oil ; leave it there (the dish being well covered) for two 
or three hours; then broil on a buttered gridiron over 



GAME. 163 

a clear fire, turning often; serve on a very hot dish, 
squeeze a little lemon juice over it, surround with a 
wreath of water-cresses, dotted with slices of lemon. 

Partridge Breaded and Broiled. — Prepare as above, 
dip in beaten egg, then in rolled bread crumbs ; broil as 
above, and serve with sauce poivrade. 

Partridge or oilier Cold Game in Mayonnaise. — Cut 
up the cold game nicely, and place on a bed of mayon- 
naise sauce ; pour over some more mayonnaise, so as to 
cover the game completely ; garnish with olives, truffles, 
pickled beets, curled lettuce, etc. 

Cold lamb is also very good so treated. 

Partridge or other Game with a Puree of Green Pease. 
— Stew the partridge and serve on a puree of green 
pease. 

Quail Pie. — Clean, truss, and stuff the birds, and loosen 
the joints without entirely separating them ; parboil them 
for ten minutes, meanwhile lining a deep dish with good 
puff paste ; put in the bottom some shreds of salt pork or 
ham ; next, a layer of hard-boiled eggs, buttered and pep- 
pered ; then the birds, sprinkled with pepper and minced 
parsley ; squeeze some lemon juice upon them, and lay 
on them pieces of butter rolled in flour ; cover with slices 
of egg, then with shredded ham ; pour in some of the gravy 
in which the quail were boiled, and put on the lid, leaving 
a hole in the middle ; bake over an hour. 

Boast Pheasant d le Brillat Savarin. — Let your bird 
hang unpicked until the odor determines its proper condi- 
tion for cooking. Pick and draw it ; lard it carefully with 
fine, firm strips of lard ; take two snipe, bone and draw 
them ; take the meat, make a stuffing with beef marrow, 
a little fat meat, salt and pepper, and enough truffles 



164 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

chopped fine to fill the pheasant; stuff your bird, and be 
careful to cover the opening with a crust of bread and tie 
it with a thread to keep it in place ; then take the entrails 
and livers of the snipe (throwing away the gizzards), 
pound them with two large truffles, an anchovy, a little fat 
meat, and fresh butter; prepare a slice of bread large 
enough to extend two inches beyond the bird; spread this 
paste evenly on the bread, which you place in the drip- 
ping-pan, under the bird, on the spit, and which receives 
all the drippings from the bird ; when the pheasant is 
cooked, serve it on the slice of bread, surround it with 
slices of sour orange, and pour over it a wineglassful of 
good Burgundy. 

Roast Pheasant, English Style. — When your bird has 
hung long enough, pluck 9 draw it, and envelop it in a 
strong, buttered paper and put it on the spit; in half an 
hour remove the paper, to let it brown, and watch it care- 
fully to know when it is done ; baste it with melted butter, 
in which you have poured a spoonful of good Madeira ; 
cut and trim eight little slices of bread the same size ; 
place them in the dripping-pan ; serve your bird on a 
dish surrounded by these and alternate slices of lemon. It 
will require three quarters of an hour to cook the pheas- 
ant. 

Roast Pheasants. — When the pheasant is prepared for 
roasting it should be carefully larded and stuffed with 
bread crumbs, butter, a little ham minced fine, and some 
boiled chestnuts, cut into quarters; add also a little pow- 
dered parsley ; then fold the pheasant in white paper 
carefully buttered, put it on the spit or in the oven, and, 
when almost cooked, remove the paper and brown the 
pheasant carefully ; serve with bread or cream sauce. 

Pheasant Stewed in Malaga Wine. — Lard the pheasant 
with ham, and stuff it with fillet of beef and boiled chest- 



GAME. 165 

nuts in equal proportions, adding also some butter and 
chicken liver ; salt to taste ; then put the pheasant in a stew- 
pan with a few onions fried in butter, some slices of lean 
ham, and enough stock to almost cover it ; when about half 
cooked add a glassful of Malaga wine ; serve with the sauce 
in which it has been cooked, which should be strained 
to free it from fat, and thickened with some pounded 
boiled chestnuts. Truffles may be added with advan- 
tage. 

Roast Prairie Chicken. — Clean and truss your birds; 
lard one, and cover the other with strips of lard ; put a 
cherry or peach leaf in each bird, to improve the flavor ; 
roast on a spit. 

Chipolata of Prairie Chickens. — Cut some fat pork in 
dice, and fry it till it begins to color ; set it aside ; make 
a roux, cut your bird in quarters, and put it in the roux 
with some bouillon, or water and white wine, mushrooms, 
the fried fat pork, and eschalottes (which have been fried 
in butter) ; take some sausages, divide each link in three 
by tying with a thread, heat them through on the gridiron, 
untie the thread, and remove the skin ; add to this some 
roasted chestnuts and a soup bunch ; cook all together ; 
skim, remove the soup bunch, and serve on a dish sur- 
rounded by fried croutons. 

Broiled Quail or Woodcock. — Split down the back, and 
broil over a clear fire ; butter and salt when well done, and 
let them lie between hot plates before sending them to 
table. 

Small snipe or other birds are nice cooked in this way. 

Quails, Ortolans, Sora, Peed Birds or Pail are good 
broiled or roasted. In Virginia the cooks usually roll an 
oyster in melted butter, then in pepper and salt, and put 
it into each bird before roasting, and baste with butter 



166 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

and water three times, and then with melted butter. They 
take usually twelve minutes to cook, and are served on 
toast prepared as above. 

Roast Quails Larded. — Clean and draw the quails, and 
lard the breasts carefully with thin strips of fat pork; 
stuff with a rich forcemeat of bread crumbs prepared as 
for grouse ; sew up, truss, and roast on the spit or in the 
oven, basting with butter and water, and then with butter. 
Quails cooked in this way are delicious hot or cold. 

Stewed Hare or Rabbit d la Minute {Cuisiniere Pari- 
sienne). — Skin, clean, wash, and wipe a young hare ; cut 
into pieces and put into a pot with a little butter, salt, and 
spices to taste; stew to a fine brown, add mushrooms, 
shallots, parsley, all chopped fine, also a teaspoonful of 
flour ; moisten with white wine and a little broth ; when 
it begins to boil withdraw from the fire, dish, and serve. 

Fried Rabbit. — Cut into joints, soak for an hour in salt 
water, dry, roll in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and 
fry in hot lard or drippings to a fine brown. 

Rabbits or Hares en Papillotes (Cuisiniere Parisienne). 
— Take tender young hares or rabbits, skin, clean, wash, 
and, after cutting into small pieces, lay in salt water twen- 
ty minutes; then wipe dry, and put into a deep dish with 
a little chopped parsley, chives, mushrooms, and a tiny 
clove of garlic ; add, also, pepper and olive-oil ; leave the 
rabbits several hours in this savory bath ; then wrap each 
piece in a slice of ham, adding, also, the seasoning; fold up 
carefully in buttered white paper, cook on a gridiron over 
a slow fire, and serve in the paper. 

Rabbit Pie. — Cut a pair of rabbits into small pieces, 
and soak in salted water half an hour, and then stew until 
half done ; cut a quarter of a pound of fat pork into strips, 



GAME. 167 

and boil four eggs hard ; lay some bits of pork in a hot 
dish, and upon these a layer of rabbit ; upon this spread 
slices of hard-boiled eggs, peppered and buttered; sprin- 
kle with a little powdered mace, and squeeze a few drops of 
lemon juice upon each piece of meat; proceed in this 
order until the dish is full, the last layer being pork; 
pour in the gravy in which the rabbits were cooked ; 
cover with puff paste, cut a slit in the middle, and bake 
one hour, laying paper over the top lest it brown too 
fast. 

Barbecued Babbit (Daddy Jim's). — Take fat and tender 
rabbits; skin, clean, split open, and cut off the heads; then 
lay in salted water for three quarters of an hour, perhaps 
a little less ; wipe dry very carefully, gash the backbone 
across and across, then broil on a buttered gridiron over a 
clear, fierce fire, turning the rabbit often ; when brown 
and tender lay on a very hot dish, pepper and salt, and 
then butter profusely, turning the rabbit over and over to 
soak up the butter ; cover, and set in the oven for five min- 
utes, while you heat two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, sea- 
soned with one of made mustard ; moisten the hot rabbit 
well with this, cover, and send to table garnished with 
crisped parsley and slices of lemon. 

Ragout of Rabbit (Daddy Jim's). — Skin, clean, and cut 
up a fine, large rabbit ; put four ounces of fresh butter and 
six ounces of fat pork in a saucepan ; let it heat through, 
and stir in two large spoonfuls of flour; add your pieces of 
rabbit ; pour in a bottle of red wine ; add spices, pepper, 
a soup bunch, bay leaf, sweet basil, an onion with a clove 
stuck in it; no salt for the moment; cook slowly for an 
hour and a quarter ; stir it from time to time to keep it 
from sticking to the saucepan ; take a pint of little white 
onions, cook them in butter a few moments till they begin 
to color ; moisten them with a little bouillon ; add a little 
dash of sugar to glaze them, and set them aside to serve 



168 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

around your ragout ; while your rabbit is cooking, peel 
and slice a quart of field mushrooms, and when the rabbit 
is nearly done add these to the ragout ; take out the on- 
ion and soup bunch ; taste to see if it is seasoned enough ; 
dress your rabbit on a dish, pour over it the sauce, and 
garnish your dish with the glazed onions. 

Our old Daddy Jim believed in stirring in at the last 
moment the rabbit's blood with little pieces of butter; 
add this and stir continually, and it gives the gravy more 
consistency. 

Broiled Babbit. — Skin and clean your rabbit; split it 
lengthwise; flatten it with the rolling-pin; wrap it in a 
buttered paper and broil it on the gridiron; when it is 
done remove the paper, and serve it with anchovy butter. 

Catahoula Babbit Stew. — Skin, clean, and cut up your 
rabbit; chop up half a pound of ham ; put it in a frying- 
pan with two sliced onions, half a clove of garlic, mashed, 
salt and pepper; add your rabbit; cook twenty minutes 
over a quick fire ; add a glassful of good bouillon, some 
sliced mushrooms, a glassful of white wine, and serve. 

Fricasseed Babbit. — Prepare as above ; stew until very 
tender ; then take out the rabbit, add to the gravy a cup 
of cream, two eggs well beaten, and a tablespoonful of 
butter ; thicken with flour wet in cold milk ; boil up once; 
pour over the rabbits. 

Boast Babbit. — Skin, clean, wash, and soak in slightly 
salted water for an hour and a half, changing it once dur- 
ing that time ; parboil the heart and liver, chop fine, and 
mix with a slice of fat pork, also minced ; make a force- 
meat of bread crumbs, well seasoned, and quite moist, us- 
ing the water in which the giblets we,re boiled for this, and 
working in the minced meat ; stuff the body with this and 
sew it up ; rub with butter and roast, basting with butter 



GAME. 169 

and water until the gravy flows freely, then with drip- 
ping ; roast for an hour ; dredge with flour a few minutes 
before taking it up, then froth with butter; serve on a 
very hot dish, and garnish with parsley and sliced lemon ; 
add to the gravy a little lemon juice, a chopped shallot, a 
tablespoonful of butter, a tablespoonful of sherry, and 
thicken with browned flour; boil up once, and serve with 
the rabbit. 

Rabbits or Hares. — They are unfit for eating in the 
early spring. All rabbits should, after being cleaned, lie 
in salt and water for an hour before cooking. 

Puree of Snipe d la Creole (Madame Eugene). — Snipe 
should always be kept four days, at least, before cooking. 
Never pluck them until you are ready to cook them. Hang 
them in a cool, dry place. Take a dozen snipe, pluck 
them and draw them ; cut off all the meat, and put it 
aside, with the entrails, in a mortar; put the remains of 
the birds in a saucepan with bouillon, parsley, laurel leaf, 
a clove, and two glassf uls of white wine ; boil this till it 
is reduced to half, and strain it ; pound your birds and en- 
trails in a mortar with three ounces of fat pork, moisten 
with the above sauce, and pass this puree through a col- 
ander ; put it in a saucepan, let it heat through without 
boiling, and serve on a dish surrounded by fried crou- 
tons. 

Broiled Squirrels. — Take gray squirrels; skin, clean, 
wash, and soak in salted water to draw out the blood ; wipe 
dry and broil on a buttered gridiron over a hot, fierce fire, 
turning often ; when done lay on a hot dish, adding melt- 
ed butter; season with pepper and salt; cover closely, 
and put in a hot place for five minutes before sending 
to table. 

Ragout of Squirrels. — Prepare and soak as above ; slice 

8 



170 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

a tolerably large onion and fry brown in a tablespoonful 
of butter ; stir into the frying-pan five tablespoonfuls of 
boiling broth, and thicken with two tablespoonfuls of 
browned flour ; put the squirrels into a saucepan with a 
quarter of a pound of bacon cut into strips ; add the onions 
and their gravy, season to taste, and put in a cupful of te- 
pid water; cover and stew for forty minutes or until ten- 
der, pour in a glassful of wine and the juice of half a lem- 
on, ^hake well, and turn into a deep covered dish. 

Brunswick Stew ("Common-Sense in the Household"). 
— Two gray squirrels, cleaned, prepared, and soaked as 
above; one quart of tomatoes peeled and sliced; one pint 
of lima beans ; six potatoes parboiled and sliced ; six ears 
of green corn cut from the cob ; half a pound of butter ; 
half a pound of fat salt pork cut into fine shreds ; one tea- 
spoonful of ground black pepper; half a teaspoonful of 
cayenne; one gallon of water; one tablespoonful of salt; 
two teaspoonf uls of white sugar ; one onion minced smalL 

When the squirrels have soaked, put on the water with 
the salt in it and boil five minutes ; then put in the onion, 
beans, corn, pork, potatoes, pepper, and squirrels ; cover 
closely and stew two and a half hours very slowly, stirring 
frequently from the bottom ; then add the tomatoes and 
sugar and stew for an hour longer ; ten minutes before tak- 
ing the pot from the fire put in the butter rolled in browned 
flour; give a final boil, and turn into the soup tureen. 

Roast Birds with Hasty Pudding a la Verona. — Clean 
and truss the birds, put a small bit of fresh butter in each, 
and arrange them in rows, putting a piece of bacon and a 
sprig of laurel between each ; then put them on the spit, 
having first rubbed them over with butter; baste with 
butter and water, and as soon as they begin to brown put 
into the dripping-pan some thick squares of cold hasty 
pudding ; when the birds are cooked, put a bird on each 
square of hasty pudding, and serve. 



GAME. 171 

They can be cooked in the oven if yon have no spit. 
All small birds are good cooked in this way. 

Roast Snipe, Plover, or other Small Birds. — Clean and 
truss, and arrange in rows on the spit or in the dripping- 
pan ; baste with butter, and then with butter and water ; 
when they begin to brown cut a round of white bread 
(without crust), toast quickly, butter, and lay in the drip- 
ping-pan ; when the birds are done pour over them the 
gravy in the dripping-pan, and serve on toast. 

Roast Woodcock, No. 1. — If you roast with the trail, clean, 
but do not draw the birds, and put the toast under them, 
as soon as they begin to cook, to catch the trail. 

Roast Woodcock, No. 2. — Clean, draw, truss, and stuff 
with a rich forcemeat of bread crumbs peppered and salt- 
ed, shortened with melted butter, and moistened with 
cream ; sew them up and roast, basting with butter and 
water, from twenty minutes to half an hour; when half 
done put under them slices of toast prepared as above, and 
serve with the woodcock. 

Venison. — Good venison should be of a rich, reddish- 
brown color, fine in grain, and fat. 

Roast Haunch. — Wash off the outside with lukewarm 
water; then rub all over with fresh butter; cover with a 
thick paste of flour and water, then with white paper well 
buttered, then with thick foolscap ; bind firmly with pack- 
thread ; then pass on the spit and roast, allowing five hours 
if the haunch be large, and the fire steady and strong ; 
baste constantly with butter and water, at intervals, to pre- 
vent scorching ; half an hour before you take it up remove 
the papers and paste and test the haunch with a skewer ; 
if the skewer passes easily to the bone through the thick- 
est part, set the haunch down to a more moderate fire, and 



172 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

baste every few minutes with claret wine and melted but- 
ter; at the last baste with butter, dredge with flour to 
make a light froth, and dish, putting a frill of fringed pa- 
per round the knuckle. 

Baked Haunch. — Cook precisely as above, putting a lit- 
tle water in the dripping-pan in which it is baked ; baste 
as above. 

Boast Neck of Venison. — Roast precisely as you do the 
haunch, allowing a quarter of an hour to the pound. 

Boast Shoulder. — This may be roasted without the paste 
and paper ; baste often, first with butter and water, then 
with claret and butter, taking care never to allow it to 
dry. 

Gravy for Boast Venison. — One pound of scraps of raw 
venison ; one quart of water ; one pinch of cloves ; half a 
nutmeg grated ; peel of half a lemon grated ; salt and cay- 
enne to taste. 

Stew slowly down to one half the original quantity ; 
then skim, strain, and put on the fire again in a clean 
saucepan ; add three tablespoonfuls of currant jelly, a 
glassful of claret, two tablespoonfuls of butter, and thick- 
en with browned flour ; dish in a gravy-boat. 

Serve currant or grape jelly with venison. 

Stewed Shoulder of Venison. — Bone the shoulder, ex- 
tracting the bones on the under side; stuff with a fine 
mince of fat mutton, bread crumbs, butter, and seasoned 
with a little nutmeg, allspice, salt, cayenne pepper, and 
wine ; bind firmly with broad tape ; baste once with melt- 
ed butter ; then put in a saucepan with a pint of venison 
gravy (made as above directed), a glassful of port wine, a 
few peppercorns, and a little celery, parboiled and chopped 
fine ; cover closely and stew until tender ; remove the tape, 



GAME. 173 

place on a hot dish, strain the gravy, and pour over the 
meat. 

Venison Cutlets. — These are usually cut from venison 
which is not fat or juicy enough for roasting. They 
should be carefully trimmed and larded with fat pork ; 
then lay them in a stewpan with a few pieces of young 
onion on each ; scatter, also, a little minced parsley and 
thyme between the layers of meat, and pepper and nut- 
meg to taste; no salt, as the pork will salt sufficiently; 
pour over all a plain venison gravy — that is, a gravy made 
as above, but without wine, lemon, currant jelly, or but- 
ter; cover closely and cook twenty minutes; then take up 
and fry in just enough butter to keep them from burning; 
fry quickly, turning the cutlets constantly; then put into 
a hot chafing-dish and pour over them the gravy in which 
they have been cooked after you have strained it and 
added a tablespoonful of currant jelly, a teaspoonful of 
Worcestershire sauce, half a glassful of port wine, and a 
little browned flour for thickening ; boil up once and pour 
over the cutlets ; cover, and let them stand fifteen minutes 
before sending them to table. 

Ragout of Cold Venison. — Put the bones, fat, and scraps 
of cold venison on to stew, with a teacupful of cold water, 
a button onion minced fine, parsley and thyme, pepper and 
salt, three or four whole cloves, and a little mace ; stew for 
an hour, then strain and return to the saucepan, adding 
some cold gravy from the roast, a tablespoonful of currant 
jelly, one of mushroom catsup, a teaspoonful of Worces- 
tershire sauce, and a little browned flour; boil for three 
minutes, lay in the venison, cut into small squares, and 
heat, but do not boil, for three minutes; stir frequently, 
and serve in a deep covered dish. 

Roast Fawn. — Clean, wash thoroughly, and stuff with 
a rich forcemeat made of chopped pork, bread crumbs, 



174 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

pepper and salt, a little grated nutmeg, and the juice of a 
lemon ; moisten with water and cream ; bind with beaten 
egg and melted butter; sew up the fawn when stuffed, 
turning the legs under and binding close to the body ; cov- 
er with thin slices of pork bound on with packthread, cross- 
ing in every direction ; roast at a quick fire, allowing twen- 
ty-two minutes to a pound; twenty minutes before serv- 
ing remove the pork and allow the fawn to brown, basting 
with melted butter; at the last dredge with flour, let this 
brown, froth with butter, and serve; garnish with water- 
cresses or curled parsley, and serve with currant or grape 

.i ell y- 

Kids, hares, or rabbits may be roasted in the same 
way. 

Venison Ham. — Rub the hams with equal parts of salt 
and brown sugar ; then pack the hams into a cask, sprink- 
ling dry salt between them, and let them lie eight days, 
rubbing them daily with the salt and sugar ; then take the 
hams out of the pickle, brush them over with cider vine- 
gar, and afterwards with equal parts of fine salt, molasses, 
and a teaspoonful of saltpetre to every two hams ; empty 
the cask, wash it out with cold water, and repack the 
hams while damp and sticky, scattering fine salt over each. 
Let them lie in this pickle eight days longer; then wash 
off with tepid water, afterwards with vinegar ; then, while 
wet, powder them with bran, and smoke a fortnight or 
three weeks (if the hams are large) ; wrap in brown paper 
that has no unpleasant odor, stitch a muslin cover over 
this, and whitewash ; chip or shave for the table. 

Venison /Sausages (" Common-Sense in the Household "). 
— Five pounds of lean venison ; two pounds of salt pork ; 
five teaspoonfuls of powdered sage ; four teaspoonf uls of 
salt ; four teaspoonfuls of black pepper ; two teaspoonfuls 
of cayenne ; one small onion ; the juice of one lemon. 

Chop the meat very small, season, and pack in skins or 



GAME. 175 

small stone jars ; keep in a cool, dry place ; fry as you do 

other sausages. 

Venison Pasty. — For the gravy, put the bones, fat, rag- 
ged and gristly bits of venison into a saucepan with sweet 
herbs, celery, a shallot, pepper, salt, and nutmeg ; cover well 
with cold water and set on to boil ; cut the better pieces 
of meat into squares (inch), and cook in another saucepan 
until three quarters done ; line a large, deep dish with 
good puff paste; put in the squares of venison with half a 
cupful of the liquor in which the meat was stewed ; sea- 
son with pepper, salt, and butter, and cover with a lid of 
prepared pastry an inch thick ; cut a round hole in the 
middle, fit in a tin cylinder, and bake steadily, covering 
the crust with clean white paper as soon as it is firm ; 
while it is cooking prepare the gravy. When all the sub- 
stance has been extracted from the bones, etc., strain the 
gravy, return to the saucepan, let it come to a boil, skim 
carefully, and add a glassful of port wine, a tablespoonful 
of butter, the juice of a lemon, and some browned flour to 
thicken ; boil up once, remove the plug from the hole in 
the pastry, and pour in through a funnel as much gravy 
as the pie will hold ; do this quickly, brush the crust over 
with beaten egg, and put the pie back in the oven until it 
is a rich golden russet. This operation should be rapidly 
performed, and at the door of the oven, or the crust will 
be spoiled. Bake two or three hours, guiding yourself by 
the size of the pie ; it is good hot or cold. 

Crust for Venison Pasty. — One and a half pounds of 
sifted flour; twelve ounces of butter; three eggs; salt; 
ice- water. 

Dry the flour, and cut up half the butter in it with a 
chopper until the whole is fine and yellow ; salt, and work 
up with ice-water, adding, last of all, the eggs beaten very 
light; work out rapidly, bundling as little as possible, roll 
out three times very thin, basting with butter, then into a 



176 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

lid nearly an inch thick ; cover the pie with this ; cut the 
rest of the pastry into figures and ornaments, bake on a 
tin plate, and glaze with beaten egg; when the pie is 
baked, cover the hole in the centre with one of these or- 
naments, and arrange the others on the crust. 

Venison Steaks with Sauce. — Steaks are cut from the 
neck or haunch. Broil rapidly on a buttered gridiron over 
a clear and fierce fire, turning constantly. They require 
three or four minutes longer to cook than beefsteaks. 
While the steaks are broiling, prepare in a chafing-dish a 
sauce in the following proportions: A piece of butter the 
size of an egg for every pound of venison ; one tablespoon- 
ful of currant jelly for every pound of venison ; a pinch 
of salt, and the same of pepper ; a glassful of port wine or 
claret for every four pounds. 

This should be liquid and boiling hot by the time the 
steaks are done to a turn ; lay each steak in the sauce 
separately, and turn over and over; then cover closely 
and heat altogether, with the lamp burning underneath, 
for five minutes ; serve in the chafing-dish. 

Venison Steaks, Plain. — Broil as above, then dust with 
pepper and salt ; place on a very hot dish with a lump of 
butter on each steak ; cover with another hot dish and 
leave in a warm place for five minutes ; then turn them 
over two or three times in the gravy which runs from 
them, and serve. 

Venison Chops are cut from the loin and neck ; broil and 
butter as above. 

Wild Turkey. — Draw and wash the inside very careful- 
ly, wipe dry, and hang for twelve hours before roasting ; 
when ready to roast wipe dry again, truss, and stuff with 
a rich forcemeat of bread crumbs, some bits of fat pork 
chopped fine, pepper, a soupgon of lean minced ham, and 



GAME. 177 

some boiled and peeled chestnuts ; moisten with milk, and 
beat in an egg and two or three tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter ; baste with butter and water at first, then three or 
four times with gravy, then five or six times with melted 
butter. It is safe to allow at least three quarters of a 
pound of butter for basting a large wild turkey. Dredge 
with flour at the last, froth with butter, and serve when 
the turkey is finely browned ; dish on a very hot dish, sur- 
round with a wreath of water-cresses or curled parsley, and 
have ready cranberry, currant jelly, and & puree of chest- 
nuts, so that your guests may have a choice of sauces. 

Quails Coasted with Ham. — Clean, truss, and stuff as 
usual ; but cover the bird with ham or pork cut in thin 
slices, binding all with buttered packthread ; then envelop 
all in buttered white paper, and baste well with butter and 
water; roast three quarters of an hour if the fire is good, 
basting constantly ; remove the papers and meat at the 
last, and brown quickly. 

8* 



VEGETABLES. 

GENERAL RULES FOE COOKING VEGETABLES. 

Vegetables should invariably be fresh. They should 
always be well picked over, and examined before using. 
Thetime required for boiling green vegetables is from thirty 
to forty minutes. 

Green vegetables should always be put on in hot water ; 
potatoes in cold water. 

Dried vegetables, pease, beans, okra, etc., should be soaked 
all night before using them. Beets require from two to 
three hours to boil, turnips an hour, cabbage an hour and 
a half, parsnips three quarters of an hour, carrots two or 
three hours, onions one. 

Tomatoes can scarcely be too much cooked. Okra 
should always be boiled whole. All vegetables should be 
carefully cooked, drained, seasoned, and served red-hot. 



Artichokes, Fried. — Pull off the very outer leaves, cut 
off the stalk, and clean the artichokes thoroughly, then cut 
into small pieces, dip in beaten white of egg, roll in bread 
crumbs, and fry a light brown. 

Artichokes, Boiled. — Clean the artichokes thoroughly, 
cut off the stalk, and pull off the outer leaves ; then put 
them in a casserole with enough water to cover them, 
and a pinch of salt ; a tablespoonful of essence of spinach 
had better be added some ten minutes before they are 
taken from the fire. This will preserve their green color. 



VEGETABLES. 1^9 

When cooked, drain, and arrange in a very hot dish; 
serve with bread sauce, sauce Hollandaise, or sauce Soubise. 

Fricasseed Artichokes. — Prepare the artichokes as for 
frying, boil; when tender, throw them into cold water for 
a few moments, and then stew in a rich white sauce, with 
some cold boiled chicken, cut into pieces an inch square. 

Truffled Artichokes d la Verona. — Prepare as for stuffed 
artichokes, substituting sliced truffles and rolled bread 
crumbs for any other stuffing ; moisten well with melted 
butter, then with strong soup stock, and cook as stuffed 
artichokes ; when about to serve, add a glassful of sherry to 
the grav}\ 

Artichokes, Farcis demi Barigoule (Ouisiniere Pari- 
sienne). — Prepare as for stuffed artichokes, but put a hand- 
ful of chopped mushrooms in the stuffing, and as great a 
variety as possible of sweet herbs, chopped fine ; put them 
in a saucepan with a large lump of butter for fifteen 
minutes, then take them out and put them into a rich 
white sauce ; cook with fire above and below, basting the 
artichokes often with their sauce. 

Artichokes d la Provengale (Ouisiniere Bourgeoise). — 
Prepare the artichokes carefully, and parboil ; then arrange 
in a large flat dish, with two or three cloves of garlic, salt, 
pepper, and enough olive-oil to moisten them thoroughly ; 
put the dish on the coals, and cook with fire below and 
above; when they are cooked, take out the garlic, squeeze 
over them the juice of a lemon, and serve. 

Stuffed Artichokes. — Reserve the very large artichokes, 
and boil them ; take out several of the inner rows of the 
scales, cut off the tender portions of these, and chop them 
fine, with a tablespoonf ul of fresh meat, the same of ham 
or pork, and a tablespoonf ul of bread crumbs; season the 



180 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

mixture with pepper and salt, moisten it with a little gravy, 
and add a piece of onion as large as a nutmeg, mashed to 
a pulp ; fill the middle of the artichokes with this stuffing, 
set them in a pan, with a little rich gravy or broth at the 
bottom ; cover it well, and let them stew slowly for an hour. 

Boiled Jerusalem Artichokes. — Wash and scrape the ar- 
tichokes, and boil them in water; then add salt, and boil 
them in milk until quite soft; stir in a lump of butter, 
well rolled in flour, a tablespoonf ul of rich cream ; season 
with black pepper, salt, and a very little nutmeg. 

Baked Jerusalem Artichokes. — Boil one pint of arti- 
chokes in water for fifteen minutes, and then in milk ; 
mash them smooth ; mix in them a dessertspoonful of 
butter, a pint of bread crumbs, pepper and salt; bake in 
open shells, with bread crumbs on top. 

Broiled Artichokes (Cuisiniere Bourgeoise). — Parboil 
the artichokes ; pull off the leaves; chop the eatable parts 
fine with a little parsley, chives, rolled bread crumbs, salt, 
pepper, mushroom powder, a spoonful of the finest olive- 
oil ; put this stuffing back on the artichokes, fold in a fine 
folding wire broiler, well buttered, and broil over a clear, 
fierce fire. 

Asparagus, Boiled. — Cut your stalks of equal length, 
rejecting the woody or lower portions, and scraping the 
white part which remains ; throw into cold water as you 
scrape them ; tie in a bunch with soft strings, muslin, or 
tape, and put into boiling water, slightly salted ; if very 
young and fresh, it is well to tie in a piece of coarse net 
to protect the tops; boil from twenty to forty minutes, 
according to the age ; just before it is done, toast two or 
three slices of bread, cutting off the crust; dip in the 
asparagus liquor, butter, and lay in a hot dish ; when 
you take off the asparagus, drain, unbind the bundle, and 



VEGETABLES. 181 

heap it upon the toast, with bits of butter between the 
stalks. 

Asparagus and Eggs. — Cat twenty-five or thirty heads 
of asparagus into bits half an inch long, and boil fifteen 
minutes ; have a cupful of rich drawn butter in a sauce- 
pan, and put in the asparagus when you have drained it 
dry; heat together to a boil, seasoning with pepper and 
salt, and pour into a buttered bake-dish ; break five or six 
eggs carefully over the surface, put a bit of butter upon 
each, sprinkle with salt and pepper, and put in when the 
eggs are set. 

Or, you may beat the eggs — yolks and whites separately 
— to a froth ; season with butter, pepper, and salt ; stir 
them together, with the addition of three tablespoonfuls 
of milk or cream, and pour evenly over the asparagus 
mixture in the dish ; this is decidedly the better way of 
the two, although somewhat more troublesome. 

Asparagus in Ambush. — Cut off the tender tops of fifty 
heads of asparagus ; boil and drain them ; have ready half 
a dozen (or more) stale biscuits or rolls, from which you 
have cut a neat top slice, and scraped out the crumb ; set 
them in the oven to crisp, laying the tops beside them, 
that the cavities may be well dried; meanwhile, put into 
a saucepan a sugarless custard made of a pint — if you need 
so much — of milk, and four well-whipped eggs ; boil the 
milk first, before beating in the eggs ; set over the fire and 
stir until it thickens, when add a large spoonful of butter, 
a little salt and pepper, and lastly the asparagus tops, minced 
fine ; do not let it boil, but take from the fire so soon as 
the asparagus is fairly in ; fill the rolls with the mixture, 
put on the tops, fitting them accurately ; set in the oven 
three minutes, and arrange on a dish, to be eaten hot; 
the number of rolls will depend upon their size; it is 
better to have them small, so that one can be served to 
each person. 



182 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Boiled Onions. — Cut off tops and tails, and skin them ; 
lay in cold water half an hour, then put into a saucepan, 
with enough boiling water to cover them. 

Beets Boiled. — Wash, boil several hours, or until tender ; 
then pare, and cut them into slices (if very small leave 
them whole); put them into a hot dish, pepper and salt 
lightly, and butter abundantly. 

Beets Stewed, No. 1. — Boil and pare, and, if necessary, 
slice as above ; then put into a saucepan with a little vinegar 
and water, a lump of butter, some pepper and salt, and a 
spoonful of catsup ; let them simmer slowly for some time. 

Beets Stewed, No. 2. — Boil, skin, and slice as above ; 
then put into a saucepan with a minced shallot and parsley, 
two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, a like quantity of 
vinegar, salt and pepper ; set on the fire and simmer twenty 
minutes, stirring often ; serve in their gravy. 

Beets in Vinegar. — Boil, skin, and slice as above ; put 
into a deep dish, pour over vinegar enough to cover them ; 
dust with salt, cover, and leave until cold. 

String, or French, Beans, No. 1. — Break off tops and 
bottoms, and string very carefully ; then pare both edges 
with a sharp knife, lay the beans in salted cold water for 
twenty minutes, drain, and put into a saucepan of boiling 
water; boil quickly — twenty minutes if well-grown, less 
if small — but remember that the beans must be tender; 
drain off the water, put into a hot dish, stir in a liberal 
lump of butter, squeeze over the beans the juice of a 
lemon, and serve. 

String Beans, ]STo. 2. — Prepare as above, then put them 
on the fire in cold water slightly salted, and boil until very 
tender ; drain off the water, return to the fire in a dry 



VEGETABLES. 183 

saucepan, add a large lump of butter, a little white pepper, 
a large spoonful of cream, and let them stew gently an 
hour or two before serving ; no vegetable, except perhaps 
tomatoes, is so much improved by long and slow cooking 
as string beans. 

Lima Beans. — Only the young ones should be used ; 
lay them in cold water for an hour and a half after they 
are shelled; then boil them until quite tender; drain 
them well, and season with a little white pepper and salt; 
add a large piece of butter after the beans are dished, and 
toss them until the butter is melted. 

Kidney and other Small Beans. — Shell into cold water, 
and cook in boiling water until tender. A small piece of 
fat bacon boiled with them is an advantage to nearly all 
beans. If the bacon be used, the beans should not be salted. 

Dried Beans. — Wash well, and soak over-night in luke- 
warm water, changing it several times for warmer ; boil 
two hours; add a spoonful of burned sugar, then mash 
thoroughly, working in a large lump of butter. 

Bacon and Cabbage. — This, I need hardly say, is a fa- 
vorite country dish at the South. The old-fashioned way 
of preparing it was to boil meat and cabbage together, and 
serve, reeking with fat, the cabbage in quarters, soaking 
yet more of the essence from the ham or middling about 
which it lay. In this shape it justly earned a reputation 
for grossness and indigestibility that banished it, in time, 
from many tables. Yet it is a savory and not unwhole- 
some article of food in winter, if the cabbage be boiled in 
two waters, the second being the "pot-liquor" from the 
boiling meat ; drain thoroughly in a collander, pressing 
out every drop of water that will flow, without breaking 
the tender leaves, and, when the meat is dished, lay the 
cabbage neatly about it, and upon each quarter a slice 



184 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

of hard-boiled egg ; when you eat, season with pepper, 
salt, and vinegar. 

Stuffed Cabbage, a la Creole. — Choose for this purpose 
a large, firm cabbage ; take off the outer leaves, and lay in 
boiling water ten minutes, then in very cold ; do this 
several hours before you are ready to stuff it ; when per- 
fectly cold, bind a broad tape about it, or a strip of muslin, 
that it may not fall apart when the stalk is taken out ; re- 
move this with a thin, sharp knife, leaving a hole about as 
deep as your middle finger ; without widening the mouth 
of the aperture, excavate the centre until }^ou have room 
for four or five tablespoonf uls of the forcemeat — more, if 
the head be large ; chop the bits you take out very small ; 
mix with some minced cold boiled pork or ham, or cooked 
sausage-meat, a very little onion, pepper, salt, a pinch of 
thyme, and some bread crumbs; fill the cavity with this, 
bind a wide strip of muslin over the hole in the top, and 
lay the cabbage in a large saucepan with a pint of " pot- 
liquor" from boiled beef or ham; stew gently until very 
tender; take out the cabbage, unbind carefully, and lay in 
a dish ; keep hot while you add to the gravy, when you 
have strained it, pepper, a piece of butter rolled in flour, 
and two or three tablespoonf uls of rich milk or cream ; boil 
up, and pour over the cabbage. 

"Collards" or Cabbage Sprouts. — Pick over carefully; 
lay in cold water, slightly salted, half an hour ; shake in a 
colander to drain, and put into boiling water, keeping at 
a fast boil until tender. A piece of pork seasons them 
pleasantly. In this case put the meat on first, adding the 
greens when it is parboiled, and cooking them together. 
Boil in an uncovered vessel. Drain, chop, and heap them 
in a dish, laying the meat on top. 

Ladies' Cabbage. — Boil a firm white cabbage fifteen 
minutes ; change the water for boiling water ; when ten- 



VEGETABLES. 185 

der, drain and set aside until perfectly cold ; chop fine, and 
add two beaten eggs, a tablespoonful of butter, pepper, 
salt, three tablespoonfuls of rich milk or cream ; stir all 
well together, and bake in a buttered pudding-dish until 
brown ; eat very hot. I can recommend this dish even to 
those who are not fond of any of the ordinary prepara- 
tions of cabbage. It is digestible and palatable, resem- 
bling cauliflower in taste. 

Fried Cabbage. — Chop cold boiled cabbage, and drain 
very dry, stirring in a little melted butter, pepper, and 
salt with three or four tablespoonfuls of cream ; heat all in 
a buttered frying-pan, stirring until smoking hot ; then let 
the mixture stand just long enough to brown slightly on 
the under side. It is improved by the addition of a couple 
of beaten eggs. Turn out by putting a flat dish above the 
pan, upside down, and reversing the latter. This is a 
breakfast-dish. 

Boiled Cabbage. — Pick off the outer green leaves, quar- 
ter, examine carefully to be sure there are no insects in it, 
and lay for an hour in cold water; then put into a pot 
with plenty of boiling water, and cook fifteen minutes; 
change the water, filling the pot with boiling water from 
the kettle; cook until tender all through. Three quarters 
of an hour will do for a good-sized cabbage when young. 
Late in the season you must be guided by the tenderness 
of the stalk. Drain well, chop, and stir in a tablespoon- 
ful of butter, pepper, and salt; serve very hot. If you 
boil corned beef or pork to eat with cabbage, let the 
second water be taken from the pot in which this is cook- 
ing; it will flavor it nicely. Always boil cabbage in 
two waters. 

Sauerkraut. — Shred or chop the cabbage fine ; line a 
barrel, keg, or jar with cabbage-leaves on the bottom and 
sides ; put in a layer of the cut cabbage, three inches in 



186 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

depth ; press down well and sprinkle with four table- 
spoonfuls of salt; when you have packed five layers in 
tli is way, press hard with a board cut to fit loosely on the 
inside of the barrel or jar ; put heavy weights on this, or 
pound with a wooden beetle until the cabbage is a com- 
pact mass, when remove the board and put in more layers 
of salt and shred cabbage, repeating the pounding every 
four or five layers until the vessel is full ; cover with 
leaves, and put the board on the top of these with a heavy 
weight to keep it down ; set all away to ferment ; in three 
weeks remove the scum, and, if need be, cover with wa- 
ter; keep in a cool, dry cellar. It can be eaten raw or 
boiled, and seasoned with pork. 

Boiled Cauliflower. — Pick off the leaves and cut the 
stalk close to the bottom of the bunch of flowers ; lay in 
cold water for half an hour ; unless very large do not cut 
it; if you do, quarter it neatly; tie a close net of coarse 
bobbin ed lace or tarlatan about it to prevent breaking or 
bruising; put into boiling water, salted, and cook until 
tender; undo and remove the net, and lay the cauli- 
flower in a hot dish ; have ready a large cupful of drawn 
butter and pour over it ; cut with a silver knife and fork 
in helping it, serving the sauce to each person ; take it 
out of the water as soon as it is done, and eat hot; it 
darkens with standing. 

Stewed Caidiflower. — Use for this dish the smaller and 
more indifferent cauliflower ; cut them into small clusters; 
lay in cold salt and water half an hour, and stew fifteen 
minutes in boiling water; turn most of this off, leaving 
but half a teacupful in the saucepan ; add to this a half- 
cupful of milk thickened with a very little rice or wheat 
flour, and two tablespoonfuls of melted butter, pepper, 
and salt; shake the saucepan over the fire gently until it 
boils ; take out the cauliflower with a perforated skimmer, 
lay in order upon a dish, and pour the sauce over them. 



VEGETABLES. 187 

Scalloped Cauliflower. — Boil until tender, clip into neat 
clusters, and pack — the stems downward — in a buttered 
pudding-dish ; beat up a cupful of bread-crumbs to a soft 
paste, with two tablespoon!" uls of melted butter and three 
of cream or milk ; season with pepper and salt, bind with 
a beaten egg, and with this cover the cauliflower; cover 
the dish closely, and bake six minutes in a quick oven ; 
brown five more, and serve very hot in the dish in which 
they were baked. 

Broccoli and Brussels Sprouts. — Pick over, wash care- 
fully, cut off the lower part of the stems, and lay in cold wa- 
ter, slightly salted, half an hour; cook quickly in boiling 
w T ater, with a little salt, until tender; this will be in twelve 
or fifteen minutes ; cook in an uncovered saucepan ; drain 
well, lay in a meat-pile lightly heaped in the centre of a 
dish, and pour drawn butter over them, or serve this in a 
tureen. 

Broccoli and Eggs. — Boil two or three heads of broc- 
coli until tender; have ready two cupfuls of butter drawn 
in the usual way, and beat into it, while hot, four well- 
whipped eggs ; lay buttered toast in the bottom of a hot 
dish, and on this the largest head of broccoli, whole, as a 
centre-piece ; arrange close about this the others, cut into 
clusters, the stems downward, and pour the egg sauce 
over all. 

* 
Cauliflower d la Beine. — Boil a cauliflower in salted 
water till tender, but not overdone; when cold, cut it up 
neatly in small sprigs; make a dressing of three table- 
spoonfuls of oil and one tablespoonful of tarragon vinegar, 
with pepper and salt to taste; rub a dish slightly with 
garlic, arrange the pieces of cauliflower on it ; strew over 
them some capers, a little tarragon, chervil, parsley, all 
fairly minced, and a soupgon of dried thyme and marjoram, 
powdered ; pour the dressing over it, and serve. 



188 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Cauliflower au Gralin. — Boil a cauliflower in salted 
water till tender; then put into a dish, cut it up neatly, 
arranging the pieces of stalk so as to form a foundation ; 
sprinkle these with grated and browned bread crumbs and 
grated cheese, and a little white pepper ; then upon this 
foundation arrange the flowery part of the cauliflower, 
sprinkling them thickly with grated {not browned) bread 
crumbs, grated cheese, and a little white pepper ; stick bits 
of butter over the top, then set in the oven until brown; 
serve in same dish. 

Carrots, Stewed, No. 1. — Scrape, peel, and wash the car- 
rots, and boil until perfectly soft, with one or two onions. 
Carrots require a long time to cook. When quite soft, 
cut them in small pieces, put into a saucepan with a little 
meat gravy or soup stock, and let them simmer for an 
hour or longer, with pepper, salt, vinegar (very little), and 
a pinch of white sugar. If you have no soup stock or 
gravy, use butter, browned flour, and water, for the sauce. 

Carrots, Stewed, No. 2. — Prepare as above, but omit 
the vinegar; use cream for the sauce, and dust the dish 
lightly with roasted powdered parsley. 

Mashed Carrots. — Boil as above ; then mash soft with 
a wooden beetle and work in butter, pepper, salt, and a 
spoonful of rich cream. 

Baked Cucumbers. — Pare the cucumbers, chop them 
fine, with a small onion ; put them on with a very little 
water, and let them stew for ten minutes; prepare a rich 
dressing as for poultry ; pour off all the water from the 
cucumbers, add the dressing and one tablespoonful of but- 
ter, and bake in a deep dish. 

Fried Cucumbers. — Slice the cucumbers when the seeds 
are full-grown, and before they turn yellow or ripen ; 



VEGETABLES. 189 

sprinkle salt on the slices, let them stand for an hour, and 
fry them as fish, with hot butter or lard. 

Fried Cucumbers d la Italienne. — Cut the cucumbers 
with a potato-cutter into fine, thin strings; throw them 
into ice-water for an hour; then dry them, drop into hot 
lard, and fry as you do Saratoga potatoes ; dust with pep- 
per and salt, and serve. 

Baked Cucumbers, Stuffed. — Cut fine, large cucumbers 
lengthwise ; scoop out a hollow in them ; stuff with a rich 
forcemeat of bread crumbs, cold veal or chicken minced 
fine, salt and pepper to taste, and enough melted butter to 
bind all smoothly together ; stuff the cucumbers with this, 
and bake them in a slow oven. 

/Stewed Cucumbers. — Pare them, and cut into thick 
slices ; put them into a saucepan, with a minced shallot 
and a little water, and let them stew for fifteen minutes ; 
pour off the water, stir in a little flour, butter, salt, and 
pepper; let it remain on the fire two or three minutes, and 
serve. 

Raw Cucumbers. — Pare, cut into the thinnest possible 
slices, and lay in ice-water, slightly salted, for two hours ; 
drain, put into a dish which has been rubbed with onion 
or garlic, and serve with a simple French dressing. A 
pinch of cayenne usually improves raw cucumbers. You 
may omit the oil in the dressing if you like. 

Steived Salsify. — Scrape and wash well six or eight 
roots, and boil them until they are quite soft; then cut 
them in pieces an inch long, or less ; mix a piece of butter 
the size of an egg with flour, very smoothly ; add two or 
three tablespoonfuls of milk, and stir it into the saucepan 
with the salsify, seasoning it with salt and pepper; stir 
frequently, and let it stew gently half an hour. 



190 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Boiled Green Corn. — Choose young sugar corn, full 
grown, but tender — the milk should escape from the grain 
at a touch ; strip off the outer leaves, turn back the inner 
ones carefully, remove every thread of silk, recover with 
the leaves, tie, put into boiling water salted, and boil from 
twenty minutes to an hour*; cut off the stalks, and send 
to table wrapped in a napkin. 

Stewed Green Corn. — Cut from the cob, and stew fifteen 
minutes in boiling water ; turn off most of this, cover with 
cold milk, and stew until very tender ; stir in a large lump 
of butter rolled in flour ; cook five minutes longer, season 
with pepper and salt, and serve. 

Roasted Green Corn. — Turn back the husks, remove 
the silk carefully, recover with the husks, tie tight, and 
roast in the hot ashes of a wood fire. 

Succotash, No. 1 (Indian receipt).— One quarter of a 
peck of beans; one dozen ears of corn. 

When cooked pour off almost all the water; cut and 
scrape the corn from the cob, stir in a lump of bacon, and 
season with pepper and salt. 

Succotash, ~No. 2. — Two thirds of green corn cut from 
the cob ; one third of Lima beans. 

Put into boiling water enough to cover them, and stew 
gently together until very tender, stirring occasionally; 
pour off nearly all the water and add a large cupful of 
milk ; stew in the milk for an hour : then stir in a large 
lump of butter rolled in flour, a tablespoonful of cream, 
pepper and salt to taste. 

Com and Tomatoes. — Equal quantities of green corn 
cut from the cob, and tomatoes peeled and sliced. 
Stew together half an hour; season with pepper, salt, 
and a little white sugar ; stew fifteen minutes long- 



VEGETABLES. 191 

er, stir in a great lump of butter, and in Hve minutes 
serve. 

Sweet Corn as Prepared by the Indians. — Boil as many 
ears as you require of the sweet corn, such as is used for 
the table, and of the same degree of ripeness. It should 
not be boiled quite as long as for present use. Cut the 
grains from the cob, and spread them on large cloths in 
the sun and dry thoroughly ; keep in a dry room ; when 
wanted throw a few handfuls into a pot of boiling water, 
and boil till soft. This, in midwinter, will give a dish of 
corn as fine as if plucked from the field. 

Hulled Corn (Indian receipt). — Boil ripe corn in weak 
lye until the hulls come off easily ; then wash it well and 
put it in fresh water, and boil it till it is well swelled ; 
then wash it again and boil it in water (in which you have 
put a little salt) for a short time ; dish, adding butter and 
pepper. 

Corn Pudding. — One quart of fresh green corn cut from 
the cob ; one teacupful of cream ; a lump of butter the size 
of an egg ; pepper and salt to taste. 

Mix all well together, and bake in a deep dish an hour 
and a half. 

Corn Pie. — One pint of fresh green corn grated ; one 
teacupful of cream ; a lump of butter the size of an egg ; 
pepper and salt to taste. 

Line a deep pie-dish with good paste, heat the grated 
corn before pouring it in, and bake it. 

Corn Fritters. — Corn from twelve ears, well cut and 
scraped from the cob; two tablespoonfuls of fine white 
flour sifted ; two eggs well beaten ; pepper and salt to taste. 

Mix well together, and drop a spoonful at a time into a 
deep saucepan full of boiling lard ; fry brown and serve. 



192 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Fried Egg-plant. — Cut the egg-plants into slices at least 
a quarter of an inch thick ; salt them and let them lie on 
a dish a little raised on one side that the juice may run 
off; let them remain thus for an hour; then flour them, 
add more pepper and salt, and fry brown on both sides. 
Egg-plant may also be dressed like salsify. 

Scalloped Egg-plant. — Quarter, peel, and boil the egg- 
plant until soft enough to mash ; drain, mash, add a large 
cupful of bread crumbs soaked in cream, a lump of butter 
the size of an egg, a pinch of chopped parsley, a little on- 
ion chopped fine, and pepper and salt to taste ; mix all 
well together, put into a baking-dish, cover the top with 
rolled bread crumbs, and bake twenty minutes. 

Stuffed Egg-plants a la Creole. — Parboil the egg-plants; 
cut them in halves ; scoop out the inside, being careful not 
to break the outside skin, which you refill later with the 
following stuffing : Mix up the inside of the egg-plant with 
a slice of boiled ham chopped very fine, bread crumbs, but- 
ter, salt, and pepper — shrimps, if you have them, make a de- 
licious addition ; bind this stuffing with the yolk of an egg, 
and fill your egg-plant skins ; sprinkle with powdered bread 
crumbs, put a small lump of butter on each piece, and 
bake. 

Stuffed Squash. — Parboil the squash ; cut a round piece 
out of the top, remove the seed, make a stuffing as above, 
and fill your squash and bake. 

Bell Peppers can also be stuffed and served in the same 
manner. 

Large Hominy or Samp, Boiled. — One quart of hominy ; 
enough cold water to cover the hominy eight or ten inch- 
es deep. 

Boil an hour, pour off all the water, and fill the pot in 



VEGETABLES. 193 

the same measure with boiling water ; boil for nine or ten 
hours steadily, refilling the pot with boiling water as it 
boils away ; do not stir nor uncover the pot ; when ten- 
der uncover and move it where it will only simmer, un- 
til the water is absorbed ; then drain dry ; serve very hot, 
with butter, pepper, and salt. 

To Boil Small Hominy. — One quart of hominy; two 
quarts of water slightly salted. 

Boil slowly for an hour and a half, stirring occasionally ; 
when nearly done pour in a pint of milk, and simmer un- 
til it thickens. 

Fried Hominy. — Cold boiled hominy should be formed 
into round pats, and fried in boiling butter or lard. 

Baked Hominy. — One cupful of cold boiled hominy ; 
two cupf uls of milk ; one large dessertspoonful of butter 
melted; one teaspoonful of white sugar; salt to taste; 
three eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately. 

Work the yolks in alternately with the melted butter, 
then the sugar and salt, then very gradually the milk; 
lastly, stir in the whites, and bake in a buttered pudding- 
dish till cooked. 

Hominy Croquettes. — One pint of cold boiled hominy ; 
one egg; one tablespoonful of melted butter; one table- 
spoonful of fine flour ; one tablespoonful of cracker crumbs ; 
one teaspoonful of salt. 

Mix all well together, form into oval balls, dip in beat- 
en egg, roll in bread crumbs, and fry them in boiling 
lard. 

Browned Hominy. — Mash and season with salt and 
melted butter as much cold boiled hominy as required ; 
put pieces of lard and butter, mixed, into a small, deep fry- 
ing-pan, and, as it melts, toss and turn it until the pan is 

9 



194 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

hot and well greased ; then put in the hominy, cover the 
pan closely with a plate, and set it where it will not 
burn ; when the hominy is thoroughly heated through, 
remove the cover, and let it brown on the bottom and 
sides. 

Lettuce au Jus (Cuisiniere Bourgeoise), — Take firm, 
apple-shaped lettuce, and pull off the loose green leaves ; 
wash and blanch ten minutes in boiling water, then drain 
and press dry lightly with a clean cloth ; make a small in- 
cision in the heart of each lettuce, and put in some bread 
crumbs soaked in strong stock, a tiny dice of fat bacon, a 
little pepper, and a soupgon of nutmeg; bind the lettuce 
firmly in shape with strong thread ; then line a deep sauce- 
pan with slices of fat bacon, carrots, onions, and a bunch 
of sweet herbs; place the lettuce in the bottom of the 
saucepan, cover them with slices of bacon and vegetables, 
moisten well with beef bouillon and strong gravy, stew 
two hours, and serve with the sauce in which they have 
been cooked thickened with browned flour. 

Lettuce a la Crime or a la Chartreuse. — Proceed as above, 
omitting the bacon and soup stock, and using instead but- 
ter and cream. 

Stuffed Lettuce {Cuisinilre Parisienne). — Prepare as 
above, removing, however, the innermost hearts, and chop- 
ping them up with a rich forcemeat of minced veal and 
chicken, bread crumbs, melted butter, etc. 

Stewed Lettuce (Cuisiniere Parisienne). — Pull off the 
loose green leaves ; wash the lettuce well in several wa- 
ters; throw into boiling water, salted, and cook half an 
hour ; take out of the water, and drain dry ; then take a 
clean cloth and press the lettuce into balls ; then chop 
fine ; put into a saucepan a piece of butter rolled well in 
flour, stir well, put in the lettuce, and stir until they dry ; 



VEGETABLES. 195 

then add some good gravy or bouillon, a little salt and 
white pepper, and the tiniest pinch of nutmeg; when 
quite tender add two tablespoonf uls of rich cream ; serve 
with croutons (crusts) of fried bread. You may omit the 
stock and cook simply in milk if you like. 

Stewed Chiccory. — Prepare as above. 

Rides for Cooking Mushrooms. — Select always the fresh- 
est and finest. They should be round, small, firm, the 
under side salmon or pink, the outside grayish white, with 
pink gills. No other sort of mushroom is safe. Cook 
in a porcelain -lined saucepan, always cooking a peeled 
white onion in the pot. Should the onion turn black, the 
mushrooms are unsafe. If you do not like the flavor of 
the onion, put a silver spoon into the pot and leave it while 
you cook the mushrooms ; if it should tarnish the mush- 
rooms are unsafe. Pick over the mushrooms carefully, 
wash, and wipe with a flannel cloth. 

Stewed Mushrooms, No. 1. — Wash and peel the mush- 
rooms, sprinkle salt over them, and let them stand a short 
time ; to a pint of juice add a small teacupful of milk, and 
stew them for nearly an hour ; if they do not give out much 
juice, add a little more milk to prevent them from drying; 
when stewed add a lump of butter the size of an egg^ 
a little salt, red and black pepper, and a spoonful of rich 
cream. 

Stewed Mushrooms, No. 2. — Proceed as above, using 
beef or chicken broth (or even water) instead of milk, and 
adding a small teacupful of sherry when you put in the 

butter. 

Stewed Mushrooms, No. 3. — Put the mushrooms into a 
saucepan with a little cream, salt, and pepper; let them 
simmer a few minutes, and when you remove them stir in 



196 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

a little piece of butter; keep them covered all the time, 
and serve hot. 

Scalloped Mushrooms. — Choose for this purpose fine, 
firm ones. Pick, wash, wipe, and peel as usual ; then lay 
them in a deep pudding-dish well buttered ; season them 
with pepper and salt and a very little onion ; sprinkle each 
layer with rolled bread crumbs, dot with little pieces of 
butter, and proceed in this way until the dish is full, hav- 
ing the top layer of bread crumbs; bake in a moderate oven. 

Broiled Mushrooms. — Take large, fine mushrooms; 
pick, wash, wipe, and peel them ; take off the stems, and 
boil them in a little cream oj milk; place the mushrooms 
in a fine folding wire broiler ; place this over the coals and 
turn it frequently, removing the mushrooms as they are 
done to a hot, covered dish. 

Mushrooms, Steamed, No. 1 (Soyer). — Cut two slices of 
bread half an inch thick, and large enough to cover the bot- 
tom of a plate ; cut off the crust, toast them a light brown on 
both sides, and spread some Devonshire cream (i. e., sweet, 
rich cream, clotted); then, having previously cleaned the 
mushrooms, put them head downward on the toast, sprin- 
kle them lightly with salt and white pepper, and place in 
each mushroom as much clotted cream as it will hold ; 
then put a small tumbler or cup over each mushroom, 
pushing it well down into the toast ; put the mushrooms 
so prepared into the oven and cook fifteen minutes ; when 
you remove them from the oven do not remove the glass 
for several minutes. This is incomparably the best way 
of cooking mushrooms. The inverted glass condenses the 
peculiar aroma which is the glory of the mushroom. 

Mushrooms, Steamed, No. 2 (Soyer). — Proceed as above ; 
but if you have no clotted cream, make a sauce in the fol- 
lowing manner: Boil some milk until it is reduced to 



VEGETABLES. 197 

cream, with a little salt, pepper, and one clove ; when 
warm put in an ounce of butter mixed with a little flour ; 
stir well; put the mushrooms on the toast with this sauce, 
cover with a basin, and place in the oven for half an hour. 
All kinds of mushrooms are delicious in this way. 

Mushrooms d la Basse. — Choose the finest button 
mushrooms you can get ; wipe clean and white with a wet 
flannel cloth, and cut off the stalks ; stew ten minutes in a 
porcelain saucepan ; strain partially, and cover with as 
much rich sour cream as you have water ; stew five min- 
utes, and add some veal gravy and a very little lemon 
juice, and salt and red pepper to taste. They should be 
pretty hot. 

Mushroom Loaf. — Carefully wash the mushrooms, wip- 
ing them dry and white with a flannel cloth; put into a 
porcelain saucepan, together with a sliced onion and a 
little pepper and salt ; cover with cold broth, and stew 
very gently for fifteen minutes ; then add a tablespoonf ul 
of butter, divided into bits and rolled in browned flour ; 
boil three or four minutes; then add three tablespoonf uls 
of white wine beaten up with egg^ and stir two minutes 
more ; have ready a baker's well-baked, stale loaf, from the 
inside of which all the crumb has been removed. This 
must be done in the following manner: Make a round hole 
in the bottom of the loaf and carefully dig out as much 
of the crumb as possible, while keeping the shape of the 
loaf ; now stuff the hollowed loaf with the mushrooms, 
adding, also, the bread crumbs, moistened with the sauce 
in which the mushrooms were cooked ; when the loaf is 
filled, stop up the hole with a piece of bread, and put the 
loaf in a casserole, the bottom of which must be covered 
with slices of ham ; add all the mushroom sauce and bread 
crumb which remain, and, after basting the loaf carefully 
with melted butter, cook it with fire below and above, and 
until it is thoroughly heated through and finely browned; 



198 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

baste once again with butter, and serve in a very hot 
dish. {Delicious.) 

Mushroom Toast. — Stew some mushrooms as above, 
substituting water for the broth, and cream for the white 
wine; have ready some muffins, each sliced in four, light- 
ly toasted and buttered on both sides, and arrange the 
mushrooms in layers between the slices of toast; pour over 
them some boiling milk, with which the sauce in which 
the mushrooms were cooked has been stirred; cover close- 
ly for five minutes beftfre serving. 

Roast Mushrooms, No. 1. — Clean and wipe the mush- 
rooms, and arrange them on buttered toast, and with a little 
butter in the hollow of each, in a Dutch oven ; sprinkle 
with pepper and salt, dredge very lightly with flour, and 
turn from time to time. 

Hoast Mushrooms, ~No. 2. — Choose some mushrooms 
and prepare as for " Mushroom Loaf ;" but some time 
before using them put them to soak in a little melted but- 
ter with a soupgon of garlic ; then skewer them carefully, 
and roast over a clear, fierce fire, basting occasionally with 
butter; meanwhile, boil the stems in a little broth, and, 
when the mushrooms are cooked, transfer to a very hot 
dish, cover, and strain the gravy, adding salt and pepper, 
a lump of butter, and a wineglassful of sherry ; pour 
over the mushrooms, and serve. 

Baked Mushrooms. — Choose fine mushrooms, prepare 
as usual ; put them to soak for an hour in a little cream, 
with a shallot; then envelop each mushroom closely in 
buttered white paper, and bake in a moderate oven ; salt 
and pepper them, and serve. 

Nettles and Dandelions, gathered before they are in 
flower, may be dressed like spinach and served on toast or 



VEGETABLES. 199 

garnished with pieces of fried bread, and are a wholesome 
addition to the list of vegetables. 

Nettles or Hop Tops, served as Asparagus (excellent). — 
Break off the young shoots of hops, tie them in bundles, 
and boil them with a little meat for twenty minutes; serve 
as asparagus. 

Boiled Onions. — Cut off tops and tails, and skin them; 
lay in cold water half an hour; then put into a saucepan 
with enough boiling water to cover them; cook fifteen 
minutes and drain off the water, re-covering them with 
more from the boiling kettle; boil until a straw will 
pierce them; drain and put into a dish with pepper, salt, 
and plenty of butter; serve with the drawn butter in a 
butter-boat. Never cook onions in an iron pot. 

Stewed Onions.— -Young onions should always be cooked 
in this way : Top, tail, and skin them ; lay them in cold 
water half an hour or more, then put into a saucepan 
with hot water enough to cover them ; when half done, 
throw off all the water except a small teacupful — less, if 
your mess is small; add a like quantity of milk, a large 
spoonful of butter, with pepper and salt to taste; stew 
gently until tender, and turn into a deep dish. 

If the onions are strong and large, boil in three waters, 
throwing away all of the first and second, and reserving a 
very little of the third to mix with the milk. 

It ought to be more generally known that the disagree- 
able odor left by any of the onion family upon the breath 
may be removed by chewing and swallowing a few grains 
of roasted coffee. No more nutritious vegetable ever finds 
its way to our tables; and it is greatly to be regretted that 
the unpleasant result just named should deter so many 
from eating it. It is especially beneficial to brain-workers 
and nervous invalids — the very people who are least likely 
to use it. 



200 THE UNKIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Baked Onions. — The large Spanish or Bermuda onions 
are the only kinds which are usually baked. Wash clean, 
but do not remove the skins; boil an hour. The water 
should be boiling when they are put in, and slightly salt. 
Change it twice during this time, always replenishing with 
more boiling-hot water, and simmer in the oven for an 
hour, basting often with melted butter; when done, take 
the onions up carefully and arrange the open ends upper- 
most in a vegetable dish; add to the gravy in the dripping- 
pan the juice of half a lemon, four tablespoonf uls of cream 
or milk, and a little browned flour wet with cold milk; 
boil up once, and pour over the onions. 

Stuffed Onions. — Wash and skin very large Bermuda 
onions; lay in cold water an hour ; parboil in boiling wa- 
ter half an hour; drain, and while hot extract the hearts, 
taking care not to break the outer layers; chop the inside 
thus obtained very fine, with a little cold fat or bacon ; 
add bread crumbs, pepper, salt, mace, and wet with a 
spoonful or two of cream ; bind with a well-beaten egg, 
and work into a smooth paste ; stuff the onions with this ; 
put into a dripping-pan with a very little hot water; turn 
off the water; take the onions out and lay upon a cloth, 
that all the moisture may be absorbed or evaporate ; roll 
each in a round piece of buttered tissue-paper, twisting in 
at the top to keep it closed, and bake in a slow oven near- 
ly an hour; when tender all through, peel them, put them 
into a deep dish, and brown slightly, basting with butter 
freely ; this will take, perhaps, a quarter of an hour more ; 
serve in a vegetable dish, and pour over the melted but- 
ter when you have sprinkled with pepper and salt. 

Pea Fritters or Cakes. — Cook a pint or three cups more 
pease than you need for dinner; mash while hot with a 
wooden spoon, seasoning with pepper, salt, and butter ; 
put by until morning ; make a batter of two whipped 
eggs, a cupful of milk, quarter teaspoonfui soda, half a tea- 



VEGETABLES. 201 

spoonful of cream of tartar, and half a cup of flour ; stir 
the pea mixture into this, beating very hard, and cook as 
you would ordinary griddle-cakes. 

Green Pease. — Shell and lay in cold water until yon are 
ready to cook them; put into salted boiling water, and 
cook from twenty minutes to half an hour ; if young and 
fresh, the shorter time will suffice ; if just gathered from 
your own vines and tender, season only with salt. Market 
pease are greatly improved by the addition of a small lump 
of white sugar. It improves taste and color. The English 
always put it in, also a sprig of mint, to be removed when 
the pease are dished. Drain well, and dish with a great 
lump of butter stirred in, and a little pepper ; keep hot. 

Buttered Parsnips. — Boil until tender, scrape, and cut 
lengthwise a quarter of an inch thick ; broil on a well- 
buttered gridiron, over a clear fire, turning them often ; 
when sufficiently cooked, transfer to a very hot dish ; but- 
ter well, turning them over and over ; pour over a little 
boiling-hot cream, and serve. 

Fried Parsnips. — Boil until tender, scrape off the skin, 
and cut lengthwise in thick slices ; dredge with flour, and 
fry in hot dripping, turning often ; drain off the fat, pep- 
per lightly, and serve. 

Boiled Parsnips. — If young, scrape ; if old, pare care- 
fully ; put into slightly salted boiling water, and boil until 
tender ; test by piercing with a fork ; when tender, drain 
and cut lengthwise, butter well, salt and pepper, and serve. 

Parsnip Fritters. — Boil two large parsnips ; mash them 
well into a batter made of one tablespoonful of rolled 
bread crumbs, two tablespoonfuls of milk, and one egg; 
season it with salt and pepper ; drop a tablespoonful at a 
time into boiling lard, and fry a light brown. 

9* 



202 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Mashed Parsnips. — Boil until very tender, mash to a 
smooth cream, add a lump of butter, pepper and salt to 
taste, and two spoonfuls of cream ; shape into a mound, 
and serve. 

Potatoes, to Cook. — " There are great varieties of pota- 
toes, and as many ways of cooking them, but boiling is 
always better than steaming" (Meg Dods). — "Steam, or 
else boil until half done; then throw in salt and cold 
water; boil till nearly done; pour off the water, and leave 
the potatoes in the pot, and as near the fire as possible" (Mrs. 
Rundell). — "Boil in as little water as possible, without 
burning the saucepan" (Mrs. Glasse). — "Peel the pota- 
toes, and boil them slowly ; when done, pour off the water, 
throw salt over, and shake the pot violently for some 
time, so that they are broken" (Mrs. Acton, "Lancashire 
Cookery "). 

Potatoes, to Choose. — First, remember that the smaller 
the eye the better the potato ; secondly, nip a piece from 
the thickest end with your finger-nail ; if good, the inside 
will be of a white, yellow, or reddish hue, according to the 
quality ; if spotted, though ever so slightly, the potatoes 
are bad. In the spring of the year potatoes are always 
bad, as the old ones are deteriorating, and the new ones are 
flavorless and watery. 

Potatoes, to Boil. — The various methods of boiling given 
by the above ancient authorities — Meg Dods, Mistresses 
Glasse, Rundell, and Acton — are all good, but different 
varieties of potatoes require different methods of boiling. 

New Potatoes are much better if thrown into very hot 
water, with a little salt, and boiled quickly — from fifteen 
to twenty minutes. 

Watery Potatoes should be peeled and thrown into boil- 



VEGETABLES. 203 

ing water ; when done, the water should be poured off, 
and some salt thrown over the potatoes, which should be 
left in the pot near the fire, and shaken violently from 
time to time. If so watery by nature that this does not 
succeed, the potatoes should be washed clean, and put into 
the pot in their skins ; the pot should then be filled up 
with water, and a piece of lime, the size of a nut, thrown 
in ; this will render the potatoes mealy. 

Boiled Potatoes, in their Skins. — Choose them of uni- 
form size, with a smooth skin, and boil in cold water, with 
a pinch of salt ; cook steadily, until the skins begin to 
crack, and you can with a fork pierce them to the heart ; 
pour off all the water, sprinkle them with salt, and leave 
them uncovered near the fire for about fi.ve minutes ; serve 
in a very hot dish. 

Boiled Potatoes, vnthout the Skin. — Pare as thinly as 
possible, lay in cold water for half an hour; then drop 
them in boiling water, slightly salted, and keep at a rapid 
boil until tender; drain off the water and salt, and dry as 
above directed. 

Boast Potatoes. — It is impossible to roast potatoes oth- 
erwise than with the aid of a wood fire. They should be 
washed clean, wiped dry, and buried in hot ashes and cin- 
ders. When thoroughly cooked they should be carefully 
wiped clean with a clean cloth, and served in their jackets, 
in a very hot dish. Eat with salt and butter. 

Soyer's Boast Potatoes. — Take large, fine potatoes, par- 
boil them, remove the skins, and put them into a deep 
dish which has previously been well buttered, and lightly 
dredged with sifted flour ; stick bits of butter among the 
potatoes, dredge them with flour, salt, and pepper, and 
cook them before the fire in a Dutch oven ; when properly 
cooked they are light brown in color, and are delicious. 



204 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

They may also be cooked in the oven, but they are not so 
good. 

Baked Potatoes. — Wash and wipe some large ripe pota- 
toes, and bake in a quick oven until tender: i. e., from 
three quarters of an hour to an hour, if the potatoes are 
large ; press each potato until it cracks, in a clean cloth, 
and serve in a folded napkin, on a very hot dish ; eat with 
salt and butter. 

Desiree's Potatoes (Creole method of making poor po- 
tatoes palatable). — Wash the potatoes, wipe them dry, peel, 
and carefully cut out all the bad parts ; boil them accord- 
ing to the receipt for treating watery potatoes, and drain, 
salt, and dry ; shake them carefully until they are a mealy, 
dry mass; then take a clean, coarse, dry pudding-cloth, 
and, putting a double-handful of potatoes in it, wring the 
cloth until the potato is quite dry; place on a hot dish, 
and proceed in this way until the potatoes are thus formed 
into a pile of apparently large, fine, whole, mealy pota- 
toes. 

Stewed Potatoes, ivith Cream. — Pare and boil the pota- 
toes, and set them away to cool ; cut each potato, when 
cold, into six or eight pieces ; make a sauce of half a pint, 
equal parts, cream and milk, a piece of butter the size of 
an egg, and plenty of sauce; white pepper to taste; boil 
the sauce with a little dash of flour in it, and stew the po- 
tatoes for a quarter of an hour; just before removing the 
stewpan from the fire, stir in two more tablespoonfuls of 
cream. 

Potatoes d la Maitre $ Hotel. — Cut cold boiled potatoes 
into small round pieces, and stew as above, omitting the 
cream and flour, and using a larger piece of butter ; use 
also black pepper instead of white; just before removing 
the stewpan from the fire sprinkle some parsley over the 



VEGETABLES. 205 

potatoes ; boil up once, and serve on a very hot dish ; 
squeeze the juice of a lemon over the potatoes before 
sending them to table. 

Curled Potatoes (Mary Anne's). — Wash, boil, drain and 
dry as for " Desiree's Potatoes," and press through a per- 
forated tin. They are very good, and look like a delicate 
sort of vermicelli. Excellent with fish. 

Soyer's Sausage Potatoes. — Take large, fine potatoes, 
wash, wipe dry, but do not peel ; cut off the tops, and with 
a scoop cut out a round piece as big as a shilling through 
the potato; insert into this a small, lightly fried sausage; 
put the tops on the potatoes, arrange them carefully in a 
deep dish with the cut part uppermost, and bake in a 
quick oven ; serve in the dish in which they have been 
cooked ; pin a napkin round the dish. 

Stuffed Potatoes. — Take large, fair potatoes, peel, wipe 
dry, and scoop out as much as possible of the inside; stuff 
them with any meat or fowl, chopped fine, flavored with 
a very little onion and moistened with butter ; replace the 
tops on the potatoes, arrange them in a deep dish, and 
serve. 

Stuffed Potatoes, No. 2 (" Common-Sense in the House- 
hold ").— Take large, fair potatoes, bake until soft, and cut 
a round piece off the top of each ; scrape out the inside 
carefully, so as not to injure the skin, and set aside the emp- 
ty cases with their covers ; wash the inside carefully, work- 
ing into it, while hot, some butter and cream ; season with 
salt, pepper, and a good pinch of grated cheese for each ; 
work it soft with cream, and put it into a saucepan to 
heat, stirring to prevent burning ; when scalding hot stir 
in one well-beaten egg for six large potatoes ; boil up once, 
fill the skins with the mixture, replacing the caps; return 
them to the oven for three minutes ; arrange on a napkin 



206 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

iii a deep dish, caps uppermost ; cover with a fold of the 
napkin, and eat hot. 

Browned Potatoes, with Dripping. — Peel and parboil 
some good potatoes, drain dry, prick in several places, 
dredge well with flour, and (after having first skimmed 
the fat off) arrange them in the dripping-pan and cook 
them three quarters of an hour, under the beef; bake and 
turn them often, and, when quite brown, drain on a wire 
sieve or on paper, and serve hot. 

Potato Marbles. — Potato marbles are shaped with the lit- 
tle instrument made for such purposes, and to be bought at 
all kitchen-furnishing shops.- -Cut the marbles, throw them 
into salt and water, and let them remain all night; parboil 
them, drop them into boiling lard, and fry them a light 
brown ; dust lightly- with roasted parsley before serving. 

Saratoga Potatoes. — Peel the potatoes, slice them with a 
coleslaw cutter, and throw them into ice- water ; let them 
lie in it several hours, even for a night, and wipe quite 
dry ; have ready a skillet, with boiling lard quite deep in 
it ; throw the potatoes in, and they will brown quickly ; 
lift them out with a perforated skimmer, and drain on a 
dish spread with soft paper. 

Potato Balls — Duchesses. — Take half a dozen potatoes, 
boil them, pass them through a sieve, and work into them, 
in a bowl, one gill of cream and the yolks of three eggs ; 
add pepper, salt, a soupgon of nutmeg, and some parsley, 
finely grated ; when they are well mixed and smooth, 
mould them into perfectly round balls, flour them, and fry 
them in hot lard or butter, rolling them continually so 
that they may be evenly browned; drain, and serve on a 
folded napkin. 

Potato Souffle is made according to the foregoing re- 
ceipt, beating the whites and yolks of the eggs separately, 



VEGETABLES. 207 

the latter to the stiff est possible froth ; when all the in- 
gredients are mixed, beat very light, pour into a buttered 
mould, sprinkling the top with rolled bread crumbs and a 
soupgon of cheese ; bake instantly in a quick oven. 

Tossed Potatoes (Mary Anne's). — Chop some cold boiled 
potatoes fine, and put them into a frying-pan with a little 
fat of cold beef also chopped fine; add pepper and salt to 
taste ; stir and toss the potatoes about continually, some- 
times taking the pan from the fire and shaking it ; cook 
quickly, and do not cease tossing the potatoes for a mo- 
ment; when nicely browned, serve on a very hot dish. 
They will be found delicious. 

Lyonnaise Potatoes. — Cut some cold boiled potatoes into 
small square blocks ; shred half an onion finely ; drop po- 
tatoes and onion into boiling lard and fry a light brown ; 
drain on paper and serve in a very hot dish ; dust witli 
powdered parsley before serving. 

Potatoes with Ham. — Boil some potatoes, slice them 
quite thin, put them in a pan with a good-sized piece of 
butter, and let them heat thoroughly, but not fry ; boil 
four eggs hard and chop them line, and chop fine about 
as much cold boiled ham as there is of potato ; put all into 
a dish in layers, with a little salt, parsley, and chopped 
onion on each layer; pour over the whole four large eup- 
fuls of cream ; cover the top with bread crumbs, dot the 
bread crumbs with small bits of butter, and bake a light 
brown. 

Potato Scallops. — Boil some potatoes, slice them fine, 
and heat as above ; put them into scallop shells which have 
been previously buttered and dusted with bread crumbs ; 
fill the scallop shells only half full of potato, then add 
some egg and cream beaten up together ; sprinkle the top 
with bread crumbs, and bake in a quick oven. 



208 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Fried Potatoes, No. 1. — Pare the potatoes raw, and 
cut them lengthwise into slices ; cut these again into thin 
strips; lay in ice- water for half an hour; drain, dry thor- 
oughly, and drop into boiling lard ; when brown put them 
into a colander and set it in a hot oven to drain; serve 
hot. 

Fried Potatoes, No. 2. — Chop cold boiled potatoes 
into bits, season witli pepper and salt, and fry lightly in 
dripping or butter, turning them constantly until nicely 
browned. 

Piquant Potatoes a la Baviere (Frau von P. zu P.). — 
Slice some cold boiled potatoes very thinly ; then beat up 
in a bowl some very rich sweet or sour cream, adding just 
enough French mustard to give it a piquant taste ; then 
take a wide, deep dish, butter it carefully, and lay a layer 
of the potatoes on the bottom ; stick little bits of butter 
thickly on the top of this layer, then put a layer of slices 
of hard-boiled egg, then more potato, and so on until 
the dish is full ; each layer must be sprinkled with salt 
and dotted with little bits of butter, also moistened suffi- 
ciently with cream; proceed in this way until the dish is 
full; then pour in the remainder of the cream, dust the 
top lightly with bread crumbs, and heat in the oven ; serve 
with a napkin pinned round the dish. 

Potato Cakes, No. 1. — Mash as above directed, form 
(when cold) the potato into small round cakes (size of a 
tumbler), flour well, and bake on a buttered pan in a quick 
oven. 

Potato Cakes, No. 2. — Proceed as above, but fry in lard 
or sweet dripping until brown. 

Broiled Potatoes (" Common-Sense in the Household "). 
— Cut whole boiled potatoes lengthwise into slices a quar- 



VEGETABLES. 209 

ter of an inch thick, and broil on a buttered gridiron over 
a hot, bright fire. 

Potato Ribbon (" Common-Sense in the Household "). — 
Pare and lay in ice-water for an hour ; then pare with a 
small knife round and round in one continuous curling 
strip; drop into boiling lard or clarified drippings, drain, 
and arrange neatly on a hot dish. 

Potato Hay (German receipt). — Prepare as above and 
lay in ice-water ; then with a potato-cutter cut the potato 
into small, fine, thin snips or straws; fry as above di- 
rected. 

Mashed Potatoes (Soyer). — Boil potatoes until mealy, 
rub off the skins, remove the specks, put them into a bowl, 
and take two forks in one hand with the points of the 
prongs turned outward ; break the potatoes with them ; 
while breaking add butter and milk — an ounce of butter, 
and a gill of milk to every dozen potatoes ; salt and 
white pepper to taste. The potatoes should be beaten 
a great deal until quite light ; they should never be 
hard like paste, as is the case if they are stirred with a 
spoon. 

Mashed Potatoes, Browned, No. 1. — Proceed as above, 
form into a mound, and set in the oven until brown ; glaze 
with butter, and serve. 

Mashed Potatoes, Browned, No. 2. — Mash as above, add- 
ing a very little parsley and boiled onion, form into small 
oval balls, dredge with flour, and put under the meat half 
an hour before it is served ; drain dry, and arrange round 
the meat. 

Sweet Potatoes, to Boast — Choose large, fine potatoes ; 
wash, wipe dry, and bury in hot wood ashes or embers un- 



210 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

til cooked ; wipe clean, and serve on a folded napkin in a 
hot dish. 

Baked Sweet Potatoes. — Wash, wipe dry, and place them 
on the shelf of the range oven ; watch them, and from time 
to time turn them that they may cook mealy ; when done, 
which can be told by squeezing them, take them from the 
oven and keep them in a hot place until ready to serve ; 
serve in their skins on a folded napkin ; eat with salt and 
butter. 

Sweet Potatoes, Fried.— Pare the potatoes raw and cut 
them lengthwise in slices ; have a pot of boiling lard ready, 
into which drop the slices ; have ready a colander, and dry 
the potatoes in it in a hot oven. 

Broiled Sweet Potatoes. — Parboil, cut lengthwise into 
slices a quarter of an inch thick, and broil on a buttered 
gridiron over a clear fire ; serve on a hot dish, salt the po- 
tatoes lightly, and dot them with bits of butter. 

Sweet Potatoes with Cream. — Wash them well, scrape or 
pare, and if very large cut them in two lengthwise ; drop 
into boiling water; when boiled drain, dry, and shake; 
when quite dry season as follows : For six persons put in 
a piece of butter the size of a hen's egg, a pinch of salt, 
a little white pepper, a tablespoon ful of sugar sprinkled 
evenly over them, and half a cupful of good, sweet cream ; 
cover tightly, and let them stand on the fire about five 
minutes before serving. 

South Carolina Mode of Boiling Pice. — Wash the rice 
in cold water, pick it well, and let it lie in cold water un- 
til you are ready to cook it ; then pour the water off, and 
sprinkle the rice into a saucepan of boiling water slightly 
salted; boil it steadily for twenty minutes, then take it 
off the fire and drain all the water from it ; place the sauce- 



VEGETABLES. 211 

pan, with the lid partly off, on a corner of the fire, where 
it is only moderately warm, to allow the rice to "soak" or 
dry. The moisture will pass off, and each grain of rice, 
swelled and burst open, will stand alone. When served 
the grains will fall apart if shaken. This is the only 
method of preparing rice to be eaten as a vegetable. 

Rice Croquettes. — Boil about half a pound of rice in a 
quart of milk; when it is thick and stiff take it off the 
lire, add two ounces of butter and the yolks of four eggs ; 
set it away until it is cold enough to form into oval balls ; 
dip them into yolk of egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry 
in equal quantities of butter and lard. 

.Boiled Sea-kale. — Pick over very carefully, tie in bunch- 
es, and lay in cold water for an hour; put into salted boil- 
ing water, and boil twenty or thirty minutes, until tender ; 
remove the thread, place on buttered toast, butter abun- 
dantly, and serve. 

Stewed Sea-hale. — Wash, clip off the stems, tie, and pro- 
ceed as above, but boil only fifteen minutes ; drain, remove 
the threads, and put into another saucepan with a little 
rich gravy ; stew until tender, dish, and serve. 

Ocra. — Wash, pick, and boil, in enough salted water to 
cover them, until tender ; drain thoroughly, dish, and pour 
over them three tablespoonfuls of melted butter, a table- 
spoonful of vinegar, pepper and salt to taste. This sauce 
should be boiling hot. 

Kale-cannon. — Take equal quantities of boiled cabbage 
and potatoes ; chop the cabbage fine and mash the pota- 
toes ; chop up and mix, also, one large boiled onion ; mix 
these all well together, adding a large lump of butter, salt, 
and black pepper ; stew slowly over a moderate fire, and 
put into a covered dish. 



212 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Squash, Boiled. — Pare and cut in small pieces ; put them 
over the fire with just enough water to cover them, and 
keep the pot covered ; when they are tender enough drain 
thoroughly, mash to a smooth paste, adding butter, pep- 
per, and salt. 

Squash, Baked. — These receipts apply only to the mar- 
row squash. Prepare as for boiling, and put into a pan 
in a very slow oven ; put some water in the pan to keep 
them from burning ; then, when cooked, mash with but- 
ter, pepper, and salt. 

Summer Squash or Cymoling. — Pare, quarter, take out 
the seeds, and lay the pieces in cold water ; then boil un- 
til very tender ; drain thoroughly ; mash soft and smooth 
with butter, white pepper, and salt. 



Winter Squash. — Pare, seed, and quarter as above; let 
it lie in cold water for two hours before cooking; then 
boil until very tender, and mash, etc., as above. 



Stewed Pumpkin. — Cut in two, seed, slice, and pare; 
soak in cold water for one hour ; then put over the fire in 
a pot of boiling water, and stew gently, stirring often un- 
til it breaks ; drain, press, and mash through a colander ; 
then return to the saucepan with a tablespoonful of but- 
ter ; pepper and salt to taste ; stir rapidly until heated 
through. 

Baked Pumpkin. — Choose a fine, rich pumpkin ; seed, 
pare, quarter, and cut in slices half an inch thick ; arrange 
in a wide, shallow baking-pan with a little water, two slices 
deep, and bake very, very slowly until dry and tender; 
then butter each strip on both sides, and eat with bread- 
and-butter. 

Spinach a la Creme. — Boil and chop very fine, or rub 



VEGETABLES. 213 

through a colander ; season with pepper and salt ; beat in, 
while warm, three tablespoonfuls of melted butter (this is 
for a large dish) ; put into a saucepan and heat, stirring 
constantly ; when smoking hot add three tablespoonfuls 
of cream and a teaspoonf ul of white sugar ; boil up once, 
still stirring, and press firmly into a hot bowl or other 
mould ; turn into a hot dish and garnish with boiled 
eggs. 

Boiled Spinach. — Imprimis, always buy enough spinach, 
as it shrinks terribly in cooking ; a peck suffices for a fam- 
ily of four or five. Pick it over very carefully — it is apt to 
be gritty — wash in several waters, and let it lie in the last 
half an hour at least ; take out with your hands, shaking 
each bunch well, and put into boiling water with a little 
salt; boil from fifteen to twenty minutes; when tender, 
drain thoroughly, chop very fine, put into a saucepan with 
a piece of butter the size of an egg, and pepper to taste ; 
stir until very hot, turn into a dish, and shape into a flat- 
topped mound with a silver or wooden spoon ; slice some 
hard-boiled eggs and lay on top. 

Or, for spinach glace, rub the yolks of the eggs to a 
powder, mix with butter, and when your mound is raised, 
spread smoothly over the flat top. Four eggs will dress a 
good-sized dish. Cut the whites into rings, and garnish, 
laying them on the yellow surface. This makes a pleasant 
dressing for the spinach. 

Mashed Turnips. — Peel, lay in slightly salted cold wa- 
ter for half an hour, put on in boiling water, boil tender, 
mash in the colander with a wooden spoon, stirring in at 
the last a tablespoonful of butter with pepper and salt to 
taste, and serve hot. 

If eaten with boiled corned beef, you may take a little 
of the liquor from the pot in which the meat is cooking; 
put it into a saucepan, boil up once to throw off the scum, 
skim clean, and cook turnips in this. 



214 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Or, if the turnips are young, rub them, when tender, 
through the colander ; add a little milk, butter, pepper, and 
salt ; heat to boiling in a clean saucepan, and serve. 

Young Turnips, Boiled Whole. — Pare smoothly, and 
trim all into the same size and shape ; lay in cold water 
half an hour; put on in boiling water with a tablespoon- 
f ul of butter, and stew until tender ; drain dry without 
crushing or breaking them, pile in a deep dish, and cover 
with a rich white sauce; eat hot. 

Stewed Tomatoes. — Put ten or twelve large, ripe tomatoes 
into a pan, and pour scalding water over them to remove 
the skins ; peel and cut out all the hard parts, then cut in 
half horizontally and take the seeds out; mince an onion 
fine and add it, with pepper and salt to taste ; put them 
on to stew in a pipkin and let them simmer several hours, 
the longer the better ; when they have stewed an hour, add 
a piece of butter the size of an egg, and five tablespoonfuls 
of rolled bread crumbs ; stir well, and twenty minutes 
later add three lumps of loaf sugar. 

Ochra and Tomatoes. — Stew for an hour a can of toma- 
toes, adding pepper and salt ; wash a quarter of a peck 
of young and tender ochra, cut off the stems, throw them 
into the stewpan with the tomatoes ; and let them all stew 
gently until the ochra begins to open; then stir them well; 
add a little onion to the tomatoes ; when first put on sea- 
son with pepper (red) and salt, s»tir in two lumps of loaf 
sugar, and serve very hot. 

Scallop of Tomato and Ochra. — Prepare as above, ar- 
range in a baking-dish with layers of bread crumbs, and 
bake. Very good. 

Scallop of Tomatoes and Rice. — Boil one pint of rice, and 
mix in it, while hot, one large spoonful of butter, and pep- 



VEGETABLES. 215 

per and salt to taste; add one can of tomatoes and one tea- 
spoonfnl of sugar; bake in a well-greased pan. 

Scalloped Tomatoes and Green Com. — Make as above, 
substituting for the rice a pint of green corn cut from the 
cob and boiled, and seasoning with some fat pork minced 
fine, a chopped shallot, pepper, salt, and sugar ; pack in a 
pudding-dish in layers ; let the top layer be tomatoes, but- 
ter, and seasoning; sift rolled bread crumbs over the top 
to brown the scallop; bake covered half an hour; then 
uncover and brown. 

Scalloped Tomatoes. — Peel and cut in slices a quarter 
of an inch thick ; pack in a pudding-dish in alternate lay- 
ers with a forcemeat made of rolled bread crumbs, salt, 
pepper, butter, and a little white sugar ; spread thickly 
upon each stratum of tomatoes, and when the dish is near- 
ly full, put tomatoes uppermost, a good bit of butter upon 
each one ; dust with pepper and a little sugar ; strew with 
dried bread crumbs, bake, covered, half an hour, remove the 
lid, and bake brown. 

Tomatoes and Eggs. — Peel the skins from a dozen large 
tomatoes, put four ounces of butter into a frying-pan, add 
a small onion minced fine, and pepper and salt to taste ; 
fry the tomatoes, and from time to time chop them while 
frying ; when the tomatoes are well cooked break six eggs 
into the pan, stir the whole quickly, and serve hot. 

Baked Tomatoes, Stvffed. — Take fine, large tomatoes, 
cut a piece off the top, and with an apple-corer or sharp 
knife carefully remove the hard part in the middle of the 
tomato, and scoop out as large a hole as possible without 
spoiling the shape ; make a stuffing of rolled bread crumbs, 
a very little onion mashed to a pulp, a pinch of white sug- 
ar, salt and pepper to taste, a little tomato mashed smooth, 
and enough melted butter to bind all well together; fill 



216 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

each of the tomatoes with this, put a small piece of butter 
on top, and bake them slowly in the oven. 

Fried Tomatoes, Stuffed. — Prepare as above, but divide 
in the middle ; when well stuffed fry in butter. 

Baked Tomatoes. — Prepare the tomatoes, and season 
them exactly as for stewing ; place them in a baking-dish 
in layers, with bread crumbs between, and little dots of 
butter ; put the dish in a slow oven, and bake for half an 
hour or longer. 

Sliced Baked Tomatoes. — Cut them in slices without re- 
moving the skin, and put about three layers in a deep pie 
plate; sprinkle on each layer pepper, salt, and bread crumbs, 
with butter on the crumbs ; bake slowly for three hours. 

Fried Tomatoes. — Cut them in slices, flour them well, 
and fry them slowly in the fat from fried pork. 

Broiled Tomatoes. — Select large firm ones, and do not 
peel ; slice half an inch thick, and broil upon an oyster 
gridiron ; a few minutes will cook them ; have ready in a 
cup some hot melted butter, seasoned with pepper, salt, a 
little sugar, and half a teaspoonful of made mustard ; as 
soon as the tomatoes are done, dip each piece in the mixt- 
ure, and lay on a hot chafing-dish ; when all are dished, 
heat the rest of the sauce to a boil, pour upon them, and 
serve at once. 

Raw Tomatoes. — Peel carefully with a sharp knife ; 
slice and lay in a glass dish ; dress with simple French 
dressing, with mayonnaise, with Duke of York's sauce, 
or with cold rovigatte. Tomatoes are excellent with any 
one of the three ; but, perhaps, best of all, with a cream 
•mayonnaise. Tomato salad should always be set on the 
ice for two or three hours before serving. 



MACARONI. 

Home-made Macaroni (Neapolitan receipt). — Take some 
fine wheat flour and sift it carefully into a heap on your 
moulding-board ; make a hole in the middle of the heap, 
and break into the hole one or two eggs, according to the 
quantity of flour; then, with the aid of a little warm wa- 
ter, work the flour and egg into a smooth, stiff paste ; this 
done, proceed to roll out the paste with a rolling-pin, sprink- 
ling a little sifted flour on each sheet ; when you have rolled 
out all the paste into very thin sheets, cut each sheet with 
a paste-cutter into strips, stars, etc. ; then put the paste for 
three or four hours in a cool, dry place. You may then 
use it for macaroni soup, macaroni vol au vent, etc. It is 
extremely delicate, and preferred by .all Italian bon-vivants 
to bought macaroni. 

Macaroni, Plain. — Put in an iron stewpan two quarts 
of water; allow it to boil; add two teaspoonfuls of salt 
and one ounce of butter, then add one pound of macaroni ; 
boil till tender, but let it be rather firm to the touch ; it is 
then ready for use, either in soup, pudding, or to be dressed 
with cheese. It should always be drained in a colander 
before using it. 

Macaroni with Tomato Sauce. — Prepare the macaroni 
as above, drain on a colander, put into a hot dish, and pour 
over it a rich, thick tomato sauce. 

Macaroni Stewed with Brown Gravy. — Prepare the 
macaroni as above. To prepare the sauce, cut a pound of 

10 



218 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

absolutely lean beef into the smallest possible dice, and 
stew for two hours. The water should be cold when the 
meat is put in. At the end of the first half-hour add a 
pint of onions peeled, sliced, and lightly fried in butter; 
at the end of two hours strain, add a teaspoonf ul of cara- 
mel for browning and the same of browned flour, and pour 
over the macaroni. 

Macaroni with Liver. — Take equal quantities of chick- 
en liver and calf's liver, and boil in water which has been 
very slightly salted; boil also with the liver an onion, a 
spoonful of mushroom powder, a bunch of sweet herbs, a 
glassful of marsala, a laurel leaf, also a little grated rind 
of lemon, and a pinch of burned sugar ; when cooked rub 
the liver to a paste in a mortar, adding, little by little, 
enough melted butter to moisten it; work into it a tea- 
spoonful of white pepper, half a grated nutmeg, a little 
cloves, and salt to taste ; work all together thoroughly and 
smoothly; meanwhile have ready some cold boiled maca- 
roni, butter a timbale mould, and line it with the maca- 
roni and fill it with the liver, putting in also, at proper in- 
tervals, square and triangular bits of cold tongue, and some 
bits of the inside of the gizzard of fowls cut to imitate 
truffles ; cover the timbale, and heat the macaroni and liv- 
er a bain-marie for half an hour; turn out and serve hot. 

Macaroni Baked with Cheese. — Put three ounces of mac- 
aroni into a pint of water w T ben the water is bubbling, and 
boil until tender; then drain thoroughly, and put into a 
deep earthenware pie-dish in the following manner : Grate 
a quarter of a pound of good Parmesan cheese ; put a lay- 
er of macaroni and a layer of cheese alternately until the 
dish is filled, taking care to sprinkle a soupgon of cayenne 
over each layer; then heat in a saucepan five tablespoon- 
f uls of cream with a piece of butter the size of a walnut ; 
when boiling pour this over the macaroni ; then with two 
silver forks toss the whole mass together until thoroughly 



MACARONI. 219 

mixed; again dust the top with grated cheese, cover with 
a thick layer of bread crumbs dotted with little bits of 
fresh butter; put into a quick oven for ten minutes, and 
serve in the dish with a clean napkin pinned round it. 

Jugged Macaroni. — Put two pounds of lean beef, en- 
tirely freed from skin and fat, into a jar with some maca- 
roni (pipe macaroni is best for this purpose), an onion 
minced fine, a pint and a half of tomatoes peeled, sliced, 
and cored, two or three mushrooms, as many truffles in 
thin slices, the half of a small red-pepper pod, and two or 
three peppercorns. The jar should be well rubbed with 
garlic beforehand, and enough cold water poured in to 
barely cover the bottom of it; the meat should be cut into 
strips; cook very slowly — the slower the better — a bain- 
marie, keeping the jar hermetically sealed ; the beef should 
cook for at least three hours before adding the vegetables; 
the vegetables again for two hours and a half or three before 
putting in the macaroni ; the macaroni, of course, should 
cook until tender; serve with the sauce in which it has 
been cooked. The sauce should be strained through a col- 
ander. 

Stuffed Macaroni. — Take large pipe macaroni (as large, 
if possible, as Italian bread) ; break it as nearly as possible 
into even lengths; then stuff each piece of macaroni with a 
mince composed of cold chicken chopped fine, some calves 
brain (which should previously have been boiled), some 
bread crumbs soaked in good stock, a little grated Parme- 
san cheese, two hard-boiled eggs chopped fine, and a little 
powdered parsley ; cook the macaroni, when stuffed, for 
twenty minutes or longer in a little thin broth ; pour some 
tomato sauce over it and serve. 

Macaroni with Giblet Sauce. — Break the macaroni into 
two-inch lengths, and stew in boiling water until tender ; 
prepare the giblet sauce beforehand ; chop the giblets fine. 



220 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

and stew them in just broth enough to cover them until 
they are tender; when nearly cooked add a teacupful of 
strong stock thickened with browned flour; boil up once 
before serving, arrange the macaroni in the centre of the 
dish, and pour the giblet sauce (which should be as thick 
as a ragout) all round it; garnish with the round, unbro- 
ken yolks of twelve hard-boiled eggs. This is a very pret- 
ty dish, and is called by the Italians macaroni reale. 

Macaroni a VAbeille. — One quarter of a pound of pipe 
macaroni, scalded until tender, and cut into pieces one 
third of an inch long. 

Mince of every kind of cold meat, fowl, or game ; add 
some ham chopped fine, some pepper, salt, a sou/peon of 
cayenne, a teaspoonful of tomato catsup, and the same 
of Worcestershire sauce, and a tablespoon ful of mixed 
chopped onion and 1 sweet herbs; pour over the mince 
enough brown gravy to moisten it well; butter a basin 
and line it completely w T ith macaroni, sticking the pieces 
so closely together as to give the appearance of honey- 
comb ; then fill with the mince, covering the top with 
macaroni; tie a pudding- cloth over the basin, and boil 
one hour if the basin is large ; take it out of the water 
five minutes before turning it out of the mould, and serve 
with a strong brown gravy poured over it. 

Macaroni d la Richelieu. — Three ounces of macaroni 
boiled until tender ; two eggs beaten light ; some cold veal 
and lean ham minced very fine ; a pinch of pepper ; a salt- 
spoonful of sugar ; a little grated lemon peel. 

Mix the mince well and smoothly; then butter a melon- 
shaped mould and line with the macaroni, fill up with 
the mince, and boil five minutes ; turn out of the mould, 
and serve with good gravy poured over it. 

Timbale of Macaroni and Chicken. — Butter a timbale 
mould well, sprinkle it with bread crumbs, and line with 



MACARONI. 221 

puff paste ; fill with the following mixture : Some maca- 
roni boiled in water with an ounce of butter ; chicken 
skinned, boned, and fricasseed ; half a pint of strong 
stock ; a little grated Parmesan cheese. When the maca- 
roni has boiled a few minutes, strain and return it to the 
pan ; add the stock, boil it slowly on the stove until re- 
duced, then put in the chicken and cheese, and toss until 
thoroughly heated ; remove from the stove, and when cold 
pour into the timbale mould ; cover and bake in a slow 
oven ; turn out of the form and serve in the timbale of pabte. 

Macaroni a VAmalfi. — Butter a timbale form, and line 
it with half puif paste, very slightly sweetened ; prepare 
the macaroni as directed in No. 1, and put it when cold 
into the timbale, dotting each layer w T ith butter, and dust- 
ing it lightly with dried and grated ham ; cover, and bake 
in a slow oven ; turn out of the tin form, and serve in the 
timbale of paste; eat very hot. 

Macaroni a la Sorrento. — Prepare the macaroni as di- 
rected in No. 1, but after draining return it to the pan and 
add four and a half ounces of grated cheese, a little butter, 
salt and pepper. In another saucepan have ready some 
small flat cakes made of boiled mush ; toss these about 
until the macaroni is ready ; arrange these cakes in a circle 
on a round dish ; heap the macaroni in the middle, and 
pour the cheese and butter over all. 

Tortelli alia Bolognese. — Take some home-made maca- 
roni, made according to the foregoing receipt, but, instead 
of cutting it into strips, cut it into small squares, and put 
into the middle of each square a teaspoonful of mince; 
fold the square carefully, taking care that the sides over- 
lap, so that there is no possibility of the tortello's bursting 
open ; then drop into boiling broth, and cool for twenty 
minutes over a quick fire. They may be served in soup, 
or separately, in a dish, with tomato, giblet, or spinach 
sauce poured over them. 



222 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Tuscan Lambkins. — Cut some home-made macaroni into 
small squares as above ; in the middle of each square put 
a spoonful of mince, made in the following manner : Chop 
very finely the white meat of some cold boiled chicken, 
and mix with it some bread crumbs soaked in cream, some 
calves' brain, boiled and chopped fine, a little powdered 
roasted parsley, a little boiled celery, two hard-boiled eggs, 
salt to taste, about two ounces grated Parmesan cheese, 
and a soiupqon of nutmeg; chop all the ingredients fine, and 
mix smoothly together ; fold the paste carefully round the 
mince, and drop each ball or square into boiling broth, and 
cook as above ; meanwhile cook in another stewpan some 
onions chopped fine, some celery, a clove of garlic, a 
bunch of sweet herbs, and some butter; add a very little 
water, and stir continually ; when nearly cooked, add a 
spoonful of brown flour, some tomatoes stewed and strained 
through a colander, and a pinch of burned sugar ; arrange 
the "lambkins" in layers in a deep dish, pouring the 
sauce above mentioned over each layer, and sprinkling 
each layer also with grated Parmesan cheese ; use abun- 
dance of both sauce and cheese. These little " lambkins," 
if properly prepared, will be found very good. 

Genoese Lasagne. — Take some home-made macaroni, 
cut into strips an inch wide and four inches long ; cook 
in good broth, drain and arrange in a dish, pouring over 
them a sauce made of beef essence, thickened with grated 
fillet of beef, and finely chopped onion and celery ; the fillet 
of beef, onions, and celery should be fried in butter to a 
light brown before adding them -to the beef juice; the 
beef juice should heat a bain-marie, and the onions, fillet, 
and celery be dropped in boiling hot ; the sauce thus pre- 
pared should be poured at once over the lasagne. 

Panned Macaroni. — Take some home-made macaroni 
paste, and, after rolling it out as thin as possible, cut into 
strips about a quarter of an inch wide; set away to dry for 



MACARONI. 223 

four or five hours, and then drop into boiling water, 
slightly salted ; cook fifteen or twenty minutes ; have 
ready a large, wide, and very shallow earthen dish ; butter 
this dish, and line completely with finely rolled and 
browned bread crumbs ; cover with a layer of macaroni. 
If the dish be so shallow that it will only admit of one 
thick layer of macaroni, so much the better; stick little bits 
of fresh butter among the macaroni, cover with a layer of 
rolled bread crumbs and grated Sardinian cheese, and 
brown in a quick oven. 



SALADS. 

Rules for Salad Dressing. — "The dressing of the salad 
should be saturated with oil, and seasoned with pepper 
and salt before the vinegar is added. It results from this 
process that there never can be too much vinegar; for, 
from the specific gravity of the vinegar compared with 
oil, what is moie than useful will fall to the bottom of the 
bowl. The salt should not be dissolved in the vinegar, 
but in the oil, by which means it is more equally distribu- 
ted throughout the salad'-' (Chaptal, a French chemist). 
The Spanish proverb says: "A spendthrift for oil, a nig- 
gard for vinegar, a wise man for salt, and a. madman to 
mix the whole together." 

Mayonnaise. — The yolks of two raw eggs ; fine oil of 
Lucca enough to work the mayonnaise to a cream ; salt 
to taste; mustard to taste; vinegar to taste; a tiny — the 
very tiniest — pinch of powdered sugar. 

Break the eggs very carefully, and put the yolks into a 
shallow dish ; then add the oil drop by drop, stirring 
steadily one way with a wooden or silver fork ; then add 
the salt, then the mustard and sugar, and last of all the 
vinegar, drop by drop. The stirring should go on all the 
time without intermission or change of direction, and the 
mayonnaise, when finished, should be of the consistency 
and smoothness of the richest fresh cream. Lemon juice 
may be substituted for vinegar. 

Cream Mayonnaise. — Take of rich, fresh, thick cream 
one pint — one half plain, one half whipped light; the 
yolks of four hard-boiled eggs ; one teaspoonf til of salt ; 



SALADS. 225 

one teaspoonful of made mustard ; one teaspoonfol of 
white pepper ; two teaspoonf uls of white powdered sugar ; 
one teaspoonful of roasted powdered parsley ; four tea- 
spoonfuls of lemon juice. 

Rub the yolks of the eggs to a fine powder, then add 
the salt, pepper, and sugar, grinding them hard and 
rubbing all smoothly together ; then work in the plain 
cream drop by drop, then the mustard, then the whipped 
cream and parsley, and, lastly, the lemon juice, which 
must be whipped in, a few drops at a time. 

Sydney Smith's Receipt for Salad Dressing. — 

" Two boiled potatoes, strained through the kitchen sieve, 
Softness and smoothness to the salad give. 
Of mordant mustard take a single spoon ; 
Distrust the condiment that bites too soon, 
Yet deem it not, thou man of taste, a fault 
To add a double quantity of salt. 
Four times the spoon with oil of Lucca crown, 
And twice with vinegar procured from town. 
True taste requires it, and your poet begs 
The pounded yellow of two well-boiled eggs. 
Let onion's atoms lurk within the bowl, 
And, scarce suspected, animate the whole. 
And, lastly, in the flavored compound toss 
A magic spoonful of anchovy sauce. 
Oh, great and glorious ! oh, herbaceous meat ! 
'Twould tempt the dying anchorite to eat. 
Back to the world he'd turn his weary soul, 
And plunge his fingers in the salad-bowl." 

Russian Salad. — Boil some carrots and turnips in salt- 
ed water with a small piece of butter, but do not let them 
be overdone. When cold, cut out of them with a vegeta- 
ble scoop a number of pieces the size of an olive; cut 
some beetroot in the same way, likewise some truffles 
and pickled mushrooms ; have ready some cold boiled 
potatoes prepared in the same way, some green pease, 
some haricot beans (cooked), some string beans, some as- 
paragus points, and one or two button onions (also cooked) ; 
take equal parts of all these (except the onions), two ta- 

10* 



226 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

blespoonf nls of capers, two tablespoonfuls of pickled gher- 
kins, two tablespoonfuls of anchovies or sardines, washed 
clean, skinned, and boned ; two dozen olives, stoned; one 
tablespoonful of tarragon and chervil, and one teaspoonful 
of chives. Rub a dish with garlic, and arrange the vege- 
tables, fish, olives, pickles, etc., symmetrically in it ; sprin- 
kle over it a very little roasted parsley ; then make a 
dressing of olive-oil, vinegar, raw yolks of eggs, pepper, 
salt, and the herbs above mentioned, worked smoothly to- 
gether. (See " Mayonnaise.") Ornament with hard-boiled 
eggs, lobster spawn, caviare, pickles, truffles, etc., and with 
Spanish capsicums (Piementes dulces) — a great addition 
on account of their exquisite color and flavor. 

Dutch Salad. — Wash, split, and bone a dozen ancho- 
vies, and roll each one up ; wash, split and bone one her- 
ring, and cut it up into small pieces; cut up into dice an 
equal quantity of Bologna or Lyons sausage, or of smoked 
ham and sausage ; also, an equal quantity of the breast of 
cold roast fowl or cold veal ; add likewise, always in the 
same quantity and cut into dice, beetroot, pickled cucum- 
bers, cold boiled potatoes, cut in larger dice, and in quan- 
tity according to taste, but at least thrice as much potato 
as anything else; add a tablespoonful of capers, the yolks 
and whites of some hard-boiled eggs, minced separately, 
and a dozen stoned olives ; mix all the ingredients well 
together, reserving the olives and anchovies to orna- 
ment the top of the bowl ; beat up together oil and tar- 
ragon vinegar with white pepper and French mustard to 
taste ; pour this over the salad and serve. 

Dutch Salad. — Thoroughly wash four soft-roed bloaters, 
remove the bones and skin, and put the roes aside; ar- 
range the four fillets of each fish neatly round the dish ; 
chop finely and separately the whites and yolks of two 
hard-boiled eggs ; also, some parsley, some shallot or par- 
boiled onion, and some pickled beetroot, keeping each 



SALADS. 227 

separate ; lay these different things in some sort of pat- 
tern in the centre of the dish ; take the roes and mash 
them with a silver or wooden spoon, adding enough oil 
and vinegar to make a thickish sauce ; pepper to taste, 
and pour evenly over the herring fillets. 

Pickled Bloaters. — Take a dozen bloaters ; wash them 
thoroughly ; drain dry, skin, and bone them, and lay them 
in enough good milk to completely cover them. When 
they have lain in this for twenty-four hours, drain them 
thoroughly, and lay them in a pie-dish with half a dozen 
slices of lemon and the same quantity of Spanish and 
Portugal onion, four bay-leaves, two ounces of capers, a 
dozen cloves, eighteen peppercorns, and as much oil and 
vinegar, in equal proportions, as will completely cover the 
herrings. Lay them in a cool place until wanted. 

Artichoke Salad. — Choose fine, fresh artichokes, not too 
large, and boil them whole, adding a little essence of spin- 
ach to preserve their green color ; when quite tender, 
drain, arrange in a dish, and set aw T ay to cool ; prepare a 
simple dressing of oil, vinegar, pepper, and salt ; serve the 
artichokes quite cold, and the dressing in a sauce-boat. 

Beet Salad. — Choose small, young beets, pink and 
white ; boil until tender, set away to cool, and serve 
cold, with a cream mayonnaise poured over them. This 
is a delicious salad, and is much prettier if the beets are 
so young that they can be served whole. Arrange in a 
pyramid in alternate stripes of pink and white. 

Blakely Egg Mayonnaise. — Boil hard one dozen and 
a half of eggs ; throw them into cold water ; peel them 
carefully, and cut each egg in two crosswise ; take all 
the yolks, mash them, season with salt, plenty of red 
pepper, celery chopped fine, grated eschalottes, horserad- 
ish scraped very fine, mango pickles chopped, and moisten 



228 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

it all with olive-oil ; stuff the whites of the eggs with 
this, make a mayonnaise dressing, arrange the stuffed eggs 
on a dish with bunches of lettuce-hearts, and garnish with 
the mayonnaise dressing. 

Potato and Herring Salad. — Boil some potatoes im- 
peded ; when cold cut them in slices, or with a potatu- 
cutter into tiny balls; peel and cut also into balls two 
sour apples, some pickled cucumbers, and one or two salt 
herrings, which must previously have been boned; put 
the potatoes into a salad bowl and salt and pepper them 
lightly ; then dress with oil and a very little vinegar; add 
the herrings, apples, cucumbers, a tablespoonful of chopped 
onions, and, last of all, some pickled beets; stir all the in- 
gredients well together, and serve. 

Plain Potato Salad. — Peel some cold boiled potatoes 
and slice fine ; rub a salad bowl with garlic, and put in 
the potatoes ; dress them with salt, white pepper, oil, and 
vinegar, and add, last of all, a tablespoonful of onion 
chopped fine, and the same quantity of roasted powdered 
parsley. 

Coleslaw. — Choose a firm white cabbage and shred it 
fine; do not chop it; pour over it Philadelphia sauce for 
Coleslaw E"o. 1 or 2 ; the sauce must be poured boiling 
hot over the slaw, which must then be set away to cool; 
eat cold. 

Baked-Bean Salad. — Put some cold baked beans in a 
salad bowl, and dress with vinegar, white pepper, salt, a 
tablespoonful of brown sugar, and a soupcon of oil. 

String-Bean Salad. — Boil some string beans until ten- 
der in salt and water; when cold arrange in a salad bowl 
which has been rubbed with garlic ; dress with salt, pep- 
per, oil (plenty of it), and lemon juice in lieu of vinegar. 



SALADS. 229 

Lettuce Salad. — Pull the lettuce to pieces with your fin- 
gers, arrange in a salad bowl, and dress with salt, pepper, 
oil, and vinegar; toss with two wooden forks until every 
leaf is thoroughly dressed. 

Or, you may use a mayonnaise dressing. 

Celery Salad. — Wash and scrape the celery, and cut into 
bits half an inch long ; have ready some good mayonnaise 
and pour over the celery; eat at once. 

Tomato Salad. — Twelve medium-sized tomatoes peeled 
and sliced ; one button onion chopped fine ; a mayonnaise 
made of the yolks of six raw eggs and oil in proportion, 
two teaspoonfuls of made mustard, one teaspoon fill of salt, 
two teaspoonfuls of cayenne pepper, the same of sugar, and 
vinegar to taste. 

Set the salad dish on the ice while you prepare the may- 
onnaise, which should be rich and thick as cream ; pour 
the mayonnaise on the tomatoes, and leave all on the ice 
for fifteen minutes longer; then serve. 

Or, you may use the cream mayonnaise, which is deli- 
cious for tomatoes. 

Cucumber Salad. — Choose fresh, ripe cucumbers; pare, 
slice very thin, and lay in ice-water for an hour; then put 
into a dish rubbed with garlic, and dress with oil, vinegar, 
pepper, and salt ; lay a piece of ice in the dish, and serve. 

Mixed Summer Salad (" Common-Sense in the House- 
hold"). — Three heads of lettuce; two teaspoonfuls of 
green mustard leaves ; a handful of water-cresses ; five 
tender radishes; one cucumber; three hard-boiled eggs; 
two teaspoonfuls of white sugar ; one teaspoonf ul of salt ; 
one teaspoonful of pepper ; one teaspoonf ul of made mus- 
tard ; one teacupful of vinegar; half a teacupful of oil. 

Mix all well together, and serve with a lump of ice in 
the middle. 



230 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Water-cress Salad. — Wash and pick carefully, pull to 
pieces, and dress with vinegar, oil, pepper, and salt. 

Chicken Salad. — The white meat of cold boiled chicken 
or turkey ; three quarters of the same bulk of chopped 
celery ; a rich mayonnaise. 

Chop the meat fine, removing every scrap of fat, gristle, 
and skin ; mix carefully with the celery, and set in a cold 
place while you mix the mayonnaise. Be sure to make 
enough mayonnaise, not only to mix thoroughly with the 
chicken, but to lie on the top; garnish with a wreath of 
lettuce hearts, hard-boiled eggs, pickled cucumbers and 
beets cut into shape. 

Lobster Salad. — Pick out every bit of meat from the 
body and claws of a cold boiled lobster ; lay aside the cor- 
al for the dressing ; when the lobster is finely minced, 
make a rich mayonnaise dressing ; mix the lobster coral 
with it to give it a fine color; then mix well and thorough- 
ly with the lobster, adding at the last moment some fresh, 
crisp lettuce leaves ; cover the lobster with a thick layer 
of mayonnaise, and garnish with lettuce hearts and small 
boiled shrimps and prawns. 

Salmon Salad. — Mince some cold boiled salmon finely, 
and cut the rest into well-shaped fillets of even size ; lay 
these in a bath of oil and vinegar ; mix some mayonnaise 
smoothly with the minced salmon, shape into a pyramid, 
and lay the fillets upright against the pyramid, filling up 
the interstices between the fillets with pickled cucumbers, 
beets, and hard-boiled eggs cut into pretty shapes. 

Serve cucumbers with salmon mayonnaise, and use in 
preference the cream mayonnaise for dressing cold salmon. 

Cheese Salad will be found under the head of "Cheese." 

Parisienne Salad. — Cut into thin slices a red beet baked 



SALADS. 231 

in the oven, also some boiled celery, and an equal quantity 
of boiled potatoes; put all into a salad bowl with some 
grated horseradish,- and dress w T ith oil and vinegar ; press 
the yolks of five hard-boiled eggs through a sieve, add two 
teaspoonfuls of puree of anchovies, and half a tumblerful 
of oil of Lucea ; work all smoothly together with a wood- 
en spoon ; then add a teaspoonf ul of good mustard, a little 
tarragon vinegar, four teaspoonfuls of pickled tunny cut 
into dice, as many of pickled cucumbers cut into dice, a 
pinch of cayenne, two teaspoonfuls of the white of egg 
cut into dice, a pinch of chopped tarragon, then the vege- 
tables chopped fine and drained ; mix all together and put 
into the salad bowl. 

Truffle Salad a la Toulousaine. — Peel and slice very 
finely six black truffles ; when sliced put them in a cov- 
ered jar ; take some young, fresh artichokes, pull off the 
hard outer leaves, and slice the inner and tenderer ones 
finely ; let them stand for ten minutes with a little salt, 
then brush off the salt ; pass the yolks of three hard-boiled 
eggs through a sieve ; mix with them a little mustard, half 
a glassful of the finest oil of Lucca, and some good tarra- 
gon vinegar; rub a salad bow T l with a clove of garlic, and 
arrange in it the truffles and artichokes in alternate layers, 
seasoning them lightly with a very little salt and pepper, 
and with a little of the dressing; let all stand ten minutes, 
then pour in the rest of the dressing, and toss the salad 
with two wooden forks until it is thoroughly assimilated. 

Black Truffle Salad a la Russe. — Peel some raw truf- 
fles, put them into a shallow saucepan with a little Madeira, 
salt slightly, and cook four minutes; then chop them, put 
them into a deep dish, season them, and pour on a little 
oil ; cover, and let them soak for ten minutes ; then dust 
with a pinch each of tarragon, of parsley, and of chives, 
chopped fine, and add several spoonfuls of mayonnaise ; 
mix well, arrange in a shallow dish, and cover with a thick 
layer of mayonnaise. 



232 THE UNKIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Mamie's Coleslaw. — Cut a fine, crisp white cabbage 
into fine shreds, and make a sauce as follows: The yolks 
of two eggs, a piece of butter the size of a walnut, two ta- 
blespoonfuls of thick cream, two tablespoonf ills of the best 
vinegar. Beat eggs, butter, and vinegar together, with 
pepper and salt to taste ; then heat in a small saucepan, 
stirring all the time ; do not let it boil ; when smooth and 
thick remove from the fire, pour into a bowl, and set in a 
cool place ; when cool beat in the cream, pour over the 
cabbage, and toss with two silver forks. 

Cauliflower Slaw. — Cut some cold boiled cauliflower 
into small flowers, and pour over the sauce above described. 
It is very good. 

Marian Sauce (" Common-Sense in the Household 5 '). — 
Five tablespoonfuls of fresh butter; a teacupful of vine- 
gar; salt and pepper to taste, with a heaping teaspoonful 
of white sugar; one teaspoonful of made mustard; one 
ta"blespoonful of roast parsley. 

Beat the butter to a cream, adding gradually the vine- 
gar, salt, and pepper, then the parsley, sugar, and mus- 
tard ; the butter should be light as whipped egg; send to 
table red-hot. 

Philadelphia Sauce for Coleslaw, No. 1. — One cupful 
of vinegar; one tablespoonful of butter; one tablespoon- 
ful of sugar ; two tablespoonfuls of sour cream ; a pinch 
of pepper, and the same of salt. 

Put the vinegar, with all the ingredients for the dress- 
ing except the cream, into a porcelain-lined saucepan, and 
let them come to a boil ; pour scalding hot over the slaw 
and set away until quite cold ; just before serving add the 
cream, beating it in with a silver fork. This preparation 
of coleslaw is very nice and digestible. 

Philadelphia Sauce for Coleslaw, No. 2. — One pint of 



SALADS. 233 

the best milk ; one piece of butter half the size of an egg ; 
two eggs, yolks only ; one tablespoonf ul of the best vin- 
egar. 

Put all the ingredients into a porcelain-lined saucepan, 
and stir steadily until the butter melts and the sauce thick- 
ens; do not allow it to boil; pour boiling hot over the 
slaw, which must previously have been cut to the finest 
. possible shreds and duly salted ; eat cold. 



CHEESE. 

Cheese Salad (Mock Crab) ( " Common - Sense in the 
Household"). — Half a pound of pickled shrimps ; a quarter 
of a pound of good old cheese ; one tablespoonful of salad 
oil ; one teaspoonful of cayenne pepper ; one teaspoonful 
of salt; one teaspoonful of white sugar; one teaspoonful of 
made mustard; four tablespoonfuls of celery or onion 
vinegar. 

Mince the shrimps and grate the cheese ; work into the 
latter, a little at a time, the various condiments enumerated 
above, the vinegar last ; let all stand together ten minutes 
before adding the shrimps ; when this is done, stir well 
for a minute, and serve in crab or scallop shells. 

Cheese Devils. — Half a pound of old cheese, grated ; one 
hard-boiled egg ; one teacupf ul of minced chicken ; one tea- 
spoonful of cayenne pepper ; one teaspoonful of salt ; one 
teaspoonful of white sugar ; one teaspoonful of made mus- 
tard ; one tablespoonful of onion vinegar ; one tablespoon- 
ful of salad oil or melted butter. 

Rub the yolk of the egg to a paste with the oil, adding 
in order-the salt, pepper, sugar, mustard, and cheese ; lastly, 
the chicken ; serve in crab or scallop shells. 

J^armesan Fondue (Brillat Savarin). — Melt half an 
ounce of fresh butter into a saucepan, stir into it a table- 
spoonful of flour ; when the two are well amalgamated, 
put in a small quantity of milk and about three ounces of 
grated Parmesan cheese ; stir the mixture on a slow fire 
until it assumes the appearance of thick cream, but be 
careful not to let it boil ; then add one clove of garlic, a 



CHEESE. 235 

small quantity of flour of mustard, a soupcon of powdered 
nutmeg, and some white pepper; mix thoroughly, and, if 
required, add a little salt ; keep on stirring the mixture at 
a very moderate heat for about ten minutes, then remove 
the clove of garlic ; take the saucepan off the fire, and stir 
the contents occasionally until quite cold ; then stir into 
it the yolks of three eggs beaten up with a little milk 
and strained, and finally the whites of five eggs beaten to 
a stiff froth; pour the mixture into a deep round tin ; set 
it in the oven (which must not be too hot); in about 
twenty or thirty minutes the fondue will have risen and 
taken color ; pin a napkin round it, and serve quickly. 

Welsh Rarebit of Cheese d la Braine. — This dish must 
be made on the table, in the dining-room, and in presence 
of the guests, as the delay of a moment is fatal to its ex- 
cellence ; have ready some old Dutch or double Glouces- 
tershire cheese, not too hard ; cut off the rind and put into 
a silver chafing-dish, with one quarter the quantity of but- 
ter; stir continually, and as it melts add more butter, the 
proportion being one third as much butter as cheese; 
when it begins to boil, add mustard and pepper to taste, 
and a soxijpcon of onion or celery vinegar ; meanwhile some 
white bread must have been toasted on both sides, and 
must be handed round to the guests hot, when the rarebit 
begins to boil / each guest should butter his toast quickly 
on both sides, and the plates must be passed rapidly to the 
cook in chief, who will pour the boiling rarebit over the 
toast. Pale ale should be taken with it; a little poured 
over the rarebit is an improvement. 

Cheese Aigrettes. — Three ounces of grated Parmesan 
cheese: two ounces of butter; two ounces of finest sifted 
flour, yolks of three eggs, and whites of two (beaten to a 
stiff froth), and a half-pint of water. 

Boil the water and butter together; stir the flour into 
this, continuing gently until it is cooked (i. e., when it 



236 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

thickens) ; remove saucepan from fire, and throw one third 
quantity of cheese into the mixture ; stir, and add one egg ; 
mix and beat all together, then add more cheese and an- 
other egg, etc.; when all are mixed together, the compound 
must be beaten thoroughly until very light ; spread it on 
plates to cool ; when cold, it should be quite set ; fry in 
boiling lard, dropping in a tablespoonful at a time ; in 
frying, they swell and gape before they are ready. 

Cheese Souffle. — Melt half an ounce of fresh butter in a 
saucepan ; stir in one tablespoonful of flour ; when well 
amalgamated, put in a small quantity of milk and three 
ounces of grated Parmesan cheese ; stir over a slow fire till 
like thick cream, but do not' let it boil; add white pepper 
and a tiny pinch of salt; keep on stirring the mixture at 
a moderate heat for ten minutes ; take the saucepan from 
the fire, and stir the contents until cold, then stir in the 
yolks of three eggs, beaten up with milk and strained, 
and finally the whites of five eggs beaten to a stiff froth; 
fill some papers with the mixture, and bake for from ten 
to fifteen minutes. 

Piedmontese Cheese /Sticks. — Take some Italian bread 
(the slender brown sticks known in Tuscany as pone Pie- 
m,ontese) / cut it into even lengths and brown quickly ; 
have ready some melted butter, and dip the bread quickly 
in it; allow it to cool again, and in the meantime prepare 
in a saucepan some grated Parmesan cheese, a little butter 
and cream ; add a soupgon of onions, salt, and pepper to 
taste ; allow this to come to the consistency of thick cream, 
and proceed to fill the Piedmontese bread in the following 
manner : Wrap one end of the stick in white paper, and, 
placing it on end, fill it with the cheese cream, which may 
be poured in through a tiny paper funnel ; when all are 
filled and cold roll them in beaten white of egg, and after- 
wards in finely rolled bread crumbs, delicately browned, 
and mingled with equal parts of roasted powdered parsley ; 



CHEESE. 237 

remove the paper caps, and egg and bread-crumb the ends. 
This is an extremely pretty and savory dish. 

Cheese Scallop. — Soak a small cupful of stale browned 
bread crumbs in fresh milk ; beat into this one large egg, 
a teaspoonf ul of melted butter, three ounces of grated Par- 
mesan cheese; pepper and salt to taste ; strew bread crumbs 
over all, and bake in scallop shells to a delicate brown. 

Ramakins of Cheese. — Scrape a quarter of a pound each 
of Cheshire and Gloucestershire cheese and good fresh 
butter; pound all in a mortar with the yolks of four eggs 
and the inside of a small French roll boiled in cream until 
soft ; mix this paste with a wineglassf ul of white wine and 
the whites of the eggs, which should be beaten as light as 
possible ; fill small oblong paper pans, and bake in a Dutch 
oven until of a fine brown ; send to table red-hot ; the 
batter for ramakins is equally good over macaroni when 
boiled tender, or on stewed broccoli, celery, or cauliflower; 
a little of the gravy the} 7 have been stewed in being put in 
the dish. 

Potted Cheese, No. 1. — One pound of Cheshire cheese, 
and one of Gloucestershire; three tablespoonfuls of moun- 
tain wine, and two of made mustard ; pound all together 
in a marble mortar, and then pack it into small jars for use. 

Potted Cheese, No. 2. — Four ounces of Cheshire cheese, 
cut and pounded ; one and a half ounces of best butter ; one 
teaspoonf ul of white powdered sugar, a little bit of mace, 
and a glassful of white wine. 

Mix all smoothly together, and press down into a deep pot. 

Roasted Cheese, Dutch Receipt. — Three ounces of fat 
Cheshire cheese grated, mixed with the beaten yolks of two 
eggs, four ounces of grated bread, and three ounces of 
butter. 



238 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Beat smooth in a mortar, with a dessertspoonful of 
mustard, and salt and pepper ; spread very thickly upon 
squares of toasted bread ; put into a Dutch oven, covered 
with a dish until hot through ; remove the dish, and brown ; 
serve blazing hot. 

Cheese Stirabout (Soyer). — Nearly fill an iron pot with 
water ; throw in three tablespoonf uls of salt ; when boil- 
ing, throw in by degrees some sifted Indian meal, in the 
proportion of one pound to every two quarts of water ; 
when well stirred, remove the husk which floats on top, 
then throw in one pound of strong cheese, grated ; boil 
twenty minutes and serve* 

Cheese Bolls (Soyer). — Take some nice French rolls ; 
cut off a piece of the crust, and pull out with a fork as much 
as possible of the inside without spoiling the shape of the 
roll ; fill up with Welsh rarebit ; put the top on and serve. 
This is an excellent picnic dish, as the rolls are good cold. 

Irish Rarebit (Soyer). — Four ounces of strong cheese ; 
one ounce of butter ; one gherkin chopped fine ; mustard, 
pepper, and salt to taste. 

Heat altogether ; pour hot over rounds of toast ; put 
in the oven five minutes, and serve hot. 

Cheese Straws, E"o. 1. — Make some sheets of the finest 
puff paste ; roll them out very thin ; sprinkle lightly with 
salt and cayenne pepper ; then lay one on top of the other, 
and roll out again and again until the paste is nearly as 
thin as tissue paper, and is evenly salted and peppered ; 
cut then with a paste-cutter into tiny strips or straws about 
four inches long; lay on buttered paper, and bake quickly ; 
arrange in a square pile like straws, and serve as cheese 
with olives. 

Cheese Straws, No. 2. — Quarter of a pound of finest white 



CHEESE. 239 

flour, sifted; two ounces of good butter; two ounces of 
Parmesan cheese, grated ; two ounces of common cheese, 
grated ; a pinch of cayenne pepper. 

Mix flour and butter well and smoothly together ; add 
the cheese and cayenne ; work well ; roll out as for puff 
paste ; cut in narrow strips, and bake. 

Ramequins de Dijon. — Half a tumbler of water ; one 
pinch of salt ; one pinch of white pepper ; half a coffee- 
spoonful of sugar; four to five ounces of fresh butter; 
half a pound of finest white flour, sifted ; four ounces of 
fresh Gruyere cheese, chopped fine ; five eggs, well beaten. 

Put the water, butter, sugar, salt, and pepper into a 
casserole ; when the mixture boils, withdraw it from the 
fire, and add the flour gradually; replace the casserole 
on the fire ; have it on the fire a few moments, stirring 
all the time ; then pour into another casserole, and add, 
little by little, the eggs and the cheese, stirring stead- 
ily; when the batter is stiff take out a dessertspoonful 
at a time, and arrange in little ovals on a buttered baking 
dish; glaze the ramequins with beaten white of egg; 
place on each a small slice of Gruyere, cut in the form of 
a lozenge, and bake in a quick oven. 



EGGS. 

Eggs, to Choose. — Try the eggs in a pan of cold water. 
The freshest sink first ; those that float are to be rejected. 
Or, shake the egg gently at your ear. If you hear a gur- 
gle or thud the egg is bad. 

Eggs should be kept in a cool place. If you wish to 
keep them for weeks, grease with linseed-oil, and pack in 
bran or coarse salt, with the small end downwards. 



.Boiled Eggs. — Put into a saucepan of boiling water with 
a tablespoon, and boil steadily three minutes for soft eggs, 
ten for hard. 

Or, put them on in cold water, and boil ten minutes; 
they will be then of the consistency of cream ; serve in a 
folded napkin. 

Poached Eggs. — Strain some boiling water into a per- 
fectly clean saucepan ; when the water boils, break the 
eggs separately into a saucer, and slide each egg carefully 
upon the surface of the water (first removing the sauce- 
pan from the fire); when all the eggs are in, return the 
saucepan to the fire, and boil gently three minutes; have 
some rounds of buttered toast in a hot dish ; remove the 
eggs from the saucepan with a perforated skimmer, drain, 
and lay on the toast ; dust lightly with salt and white pep- 
per, and serve. 

Poached Eggs a la Crime (" Common-Sense in the 
Household "). — Poach as above, adding, however, a table- 



EGGS. 241 

spoonful of strained vinegar, and a pinch of salt to the 
water. Prepare a sauce with one teacupful of chicken 
broth, half a teacupful of cream, and one spoonful of but- 
ter. Let it heat to a boil, stirring constantly ; then add 
butter, pepper, and salt to taste ; boil up once, and pour 
over the eggs and toast ; dust lightly with powdered pars- 
ley, and serve. 

Baked J&ggs. — Butter a deep dish, and break in six or 
more eggs very carefully ; place a piece of fresh butter on 
each egg ; dust lightly with salt and pepper ; bake in the 
oven until the whites are set. 

Scalloped Eggs. — Butter some scallop shells, and half 
fill with a forcemeat made of equal parts of ground ham, 
cold chicken, and bread crumbs ; season with pepper and 
salt, and moisten with melted butter ; break an egg care- 
fully on the top of each, dust with pepper and salt, and 
sift with finely grated bread crumbs; set in the oven 
and bake eight minutes. These are equally good made 
with dried beef grated, mixed with the yolk of hard- 
boiled egg rubbed to a powder. If you use the beef omit 
the chicken. 

Scrambled Eggs. — Put a good-sized piece of butter in a 
frying-pan, and when it is hot drop in the eggs and stir 
continually until they are cooked, which will be in about 
three minutes ; turn out on a hot dish, and eat at once. 

Stirred Eggs on Mounds. — Cut (with a cake-cutter) some 
white bread into rounds, toast on both sides, butter care- 
fully, and heap with ground ham, grated dried beef, or 
minced chicken ; then put a lump of butter into a fr} T - 
ing-pan, and when it is hot stir in four or five well-beat- 
en eggs, with pepper, salt, and a little powdered parsley ; 
stir and toss for five minutes, then heap on the mounds, 
and serve. 

11 



242 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Egg Baskets. — Boil some eggs hard, cut them neatly in 
half lengthwise, and extract the yolks; rub these to a 
paste, and mix with some cold fowl or ham chopped fine ; 
mix smoothly together with melted butter ; then fill the 
hollowed whites with the mixture, arrange neatly in a 
very hot dish, and pour over them a rich gravy. 

Or, you can serve them cold with mayonnaise sauce. 

Soft Eggs with Anchovy Butter. — Choose eight large 
eggs, drop them carefully into hot water, and boil five 
minutes in a covered saucepan ; drain and drop into cold 
water in which they may grow cold ; then remove the 
shell carefully, taking care not to break the whites ; drop 
the eggs again into hot water, leaving them just long 
enough to heat them ; then arrange them in a hot dish, 
and pour over them a sauce of melted butter thickened 
with anchovy paste* 

Eggs with Tomato Sauce. — Fry some eggs as round as 
balls ; then arrange them in a pyramid on a very hot dish, 
and pour over them a rich tomato sauce ; dust thickly with 
fried bread crumbs, and serve. 

Eggs a la Parisienne. — Glaze some small moulds with 
a little good stock, and dust with fresh truffles chopped to 
the finest possible mince ; then break a fresh egg into each 
mould, dust with pepper and salt, and bake in the oven 
for six or seven minutes ; then turn out the moulds on a 
very hot dish, pour over them some lobster or shrimp sauce, 
and serve. 

Farcied Eggs. — Boil eight or ten eggs hard, cut them 
in half lengthwise, and rub the yolks to a powder ; work 
this to a paste with a little bread crumb, some anchovies 
pounded fine, and some melted butter, also a handful of 
fine herbs chopped to powder, and the yolks of one or two 
raw eggs ; season the whole with pepper and salt, and stuff 



EGGS. 243 

the whites of the eggs ; then join them carefully, roll the 
egg first in beaten egg, then in bread crumbs, and fry 
them ; arrange in a pyramid, and garnish with fried pars- 
ley. 

Eggs & la Moutglas. — Boil some eggs for five tnimites, 
then drop them into cold water ; twenty minutes after- 
wards drain them, remove the shells, and with a tube take 
out the yolks; fill the hollows with a moutglas, or fine 
mince, composed of chicken breast, scarlet tongue, and 
truffles, and bind with a little good sauce or stock; close 
the opening, roll the eggs in beaten egj, and then in bread 
crumbs, and fry quickly. 

Jumbled Eggs with Shrimps. — Take four tablespoonf uls 
of cooked shrimps skinned and chopped ; pound the skins 
or shells to the finest possible powder, and rub smooth 
with some fresh butter ; then butter the bottom of a fry- 
ing-pan, break eight eggs into a dish, beat very light, and 
season with salt, pepper, and a soupgon of cayenne ; pour 
the eggs into a buttered frying-pan, put the pan on the 
fire, and stir the eggs continually with a wooden spoon ; 
when they begin to harden, withdraw the pan from the 
fire and add (still stirring) two teaspoonfuls of rich cream, 
and the red butter cut into dice ; return the pan to the 
fire, and two minutes later add the chopped shrimps ; stir, 
and pour into a hot dish. 

Plover's Eggs in a Nest of Butter. — Test plover's as 
you would hen's eggs. If they are fresh, put eighteen or 
more carefully into a saucepan, cover with cold water, and 
cook slowly for eight or ten minutes ; then drain and drop 
into cold water. Meanwhile make some cornucopias of 
paper, fill them with soft, fresh butter, and press out the 
butter through the small end; the butter will issue from 
this hole in a long, thin strip ; proceed in this way to form 
an imitation bird's nest on the border of a round plate; 



244 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

within this nest of butter arrange a pile of water-cresses, 
and put the eggs on this, so placing them as to form a 
pyramid ; put the dish on ice until you are ready to 
serve it. 

Breaded Eggs. — Boil some eggs hard, remove the shells, 
and cut into thick slices ; dip each slice in beaten egg, and 
then in rolled bread crumbs, and fry quickly in boiling 
lard ; garnish with fried parsley, and serve. 

Eggs au Lit. — Miuce some cold corned beef, ham, or 
fowl very, fine, and add two beaten eggs and some melted 
butter, pepper, salt, and minced parsley; warm in a fry- 
ing-pan, stirring and tossing continually ; when thoroughly 
heated through arrange in a thick layer on an oval dish, 
and place on the mince as many poached eggs as they will 
hold ; dust with pepper and salt, and surround the base of 
the mound with triangles of fried bread. This is simpler 
and equally good if the mince be composed only of equal 
quantities of cold corned beef and boiled potatoes. 

Fricasseed Eggs. — Prepare some stuffed eggs as directed 
in any of the foregoing receipts, but cutting the eggs dif- 
ferently — that is, taking a slice off the top, which you may 
replace when you have filled the egg ; then arrange the 
stuffed eggs in a very hot dish, dust them thickly with 
roasted powdered parsley and fried bread crumbs, and 
then pour over them a sauce made in the following man- 
ner : Two cupf uls of strong veal or chicken broth, six ta- 
blespoonfuls of rich, fresh cream, salt and pepper to taste. 
Boil up, pour smoking hot over the eggs, let them stand 
five minutes closely covered, and send to table. 

Eggs Fried as Bound as Balls (receipt of 1794). — Have 
a very deep frying-pan with three pints of clarified butter ; 
heat the butter hot, as for fritters, and stir it with a stick 
until it runs round like a whirlpool ; break an egg in the 



EGGS. 245 

middle, and turn it round with your stick until iiis as bard 
as a poached egg. The whirling round of the butter will 
make it as round as a ball. Then take it up with a skim- 
mer, and put it into a dish before the fire. They will keep 
hot half an hour, and yet be soft ; so you may do as many 
as you please. Eggs may be poached round in boiling 
water in the same manner. 

Eggs Roasted in their Shells. — To be properly roasted, 
eggs should be roasted in sand. This, of course, is easily 
done out-of-doors, but may be imitated in-doors by having 
a deep pan filled with sand, placed on the range, or, better 
still, in the oven. When the sand is thoroughly heated 
through, put a shovelful of red-hot wood coals on the sand, 
set the pan on the range, and after a few moments scrape 
the embers aside and some of the surface sand ; have the 
eggs pricked in the small end by a pin or sharp-pointed 
penknife to prevent bursting ; set each egg on end in the 
hot sand, and cover them with leaves, and then with the 
hot sand and embers ; roast eight minutes. They will be 
as smooth as velvet. 

Pickled Eggs.— Boil the eggs until they become per- 
fectly hard; then remove the shells and lay them care- 
fully in a large-mouthed jar ; pour over them boiling vin- 
egar well seasoned with salt, peppercorns, allspice, mace, 
ginger, cayenne, mustard seed, a few cloves of garlic, and 
a tablespoonful of curry; when cold fasten the mouth 
of the jar very closely. In a month they will be fit for 
use. 

Pannikins. — Take some little earthen pans, such as are 
sold for toy milkpans, capable of holding one egg only ; 
heat them in the oven, ancl when quite hot take them 
out, and with a pastebrush butter them inside ; break an. 
egg carefully into each pan ; set them in the oven until the 
white of the egg is hard enough to retain the form of the 



246 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

pan ; turn them out in. a circle on the dish in which they 
are to be served ; on the top of each sprinkle a little 
fresh parsley or grated ham ; have ready a sauce of bread 
crumbs, beaten up with rich gravy, browned and seasoned ; 
place this in the middle of the dish, the eggs enclos- 
ing it. 

Wisconsin Eggs. — Beat twelve eggs well, and add two 
tablespoonfuls of cream and some salt; have a lump of 
butter boiling in the frying-pan, and pour the mixture into 
it; as fast as the egg cooks at the bottom, slip a knife 
under, tilting the pan a little so as to let the raw egg run 
towards the butter; when it forms a little, cut it in 
pieces as you would a pie, so that the uncooked egg runs 
over the edges, for it must be cooked only on one side ; 
when done, add black pepper. This will fill a large dish. 

Puffed Eggs (Italian monastery). — Twelve eggs ; the 
yolks whole; the whites beaten to the stiffest possible 
froth. 

Put a sufficient piece of butter in a frying-pan, and 
when it is melted and slightly browned put in the yolk of 
one egg ; do this carefully, so as not to break the yolk ; 
immediately cover the yolk with a heaping spoonful of 
the beaten whites ; when cooked, remove the eggs with 
a perforated ladle, put them on a hot plate, and pour over 
them a sauce jpiquanie. 

Eggs al Piaito. — Six eggs beaten very light, yolks and 
whites together ; six slices of bread cut round and toasted 
on both sides ; some fresh cottage cheese. 

Put a piece of butter into a frying-pan, and when it is 
quite melted put in the pieces of toast, spread thickly 
with cottage cheese ; pour over them immediately the 
beaten egg, and the moment the egg browns transfer the 
jpiatti to a hot plate ; sprinkle them with browned bread 
crumbs, and serve. 



EGGS. 247 

Eggs a la Vallorribrosa. — Six eggs boiled hard and cut 
in half ; the yolks of four eggs beaten very light ; three 
button onions sliced fine; half .a tumbler of fresh cream; 
two tablespoonfuls of roasted parsley powdered fine ; salt 
and pepper to taste; a pinch of grated nutmeg; half a 
coffeecupful of browned and rolled bread crumbs. 

Put a good-sized piece of butter into a porcelain-lined 
stewpan with the button onions; when the onions are 
nicely browned, add the cream, stirring all the time ; then 
drop in the hard-boiled eggs, and one minute later the 
beaten yolks ; sift the parsley in carefully, stirring all the 
time; then the nutmeg and the seasoning; serve on a 
very hot dish, and squeeze some lemon-juice over the val- 
lombrose before sending it to table. 

Eggs with Truffles. — Stew some finely sliced truffles 
with a little butter and milk ; have ready some good ham, 
sliced as thinly as possible and freed from fat; fry the 
ham in butter, and when cooked put it on the plate in 
which you intend to serve the eggs (a strong earthenware 
plate is best); pouring over it a tablespoonful of good 
stock and the same quantity of white wine ; put the plate 
on an iron trjpod over the fire, and when the sauce begins 
to boil break the eggs very carefully ; the moment the 
eggs are cooked, take the plate from the tripod, pour the 
truffle sauce over the eggs, and serve. 

Snow Eggs. — The whites of eight eggs beaten to the 
stiffest possible froth ; the yolks the same ; one pint of 
fresh milk flavored with orange-flower water and a little 
grated rind of lemon ; powdered sugar to taste, beaten 
into the whites of the eggs. 

Boil the milk, adding the flavoring when the milk is 
scalding-hot ; when the milk is boiling, drop in the whites 
in large spoonfuls, turning them over carefully to facili- 
tate their swelling ; when they are cooked, pile the balls 
of snow into a dish and set aside ; strain the milk through 



248 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

a sieve, sweeten to taste, and pour it on the beaten yolks ; 
return the saucepan to the fire, stirring the mixture con- 
tinually until it assumes the consistency of cream ; then 
withdraw it from the fire, and pour the custard over the 
snow pyramid ; eat hot or cold to taste. 

Spanish Gold Foam. — The yolks of six eggs, beaten up 
with as much cold water as the six eggshells will contain ; 
sugar and flavoring to taste. 

Cook over a slow fire; stirring continually, and never 
allowing the liquid to boil ; when it thickens take it from 
the fire and allow it to cool ; when cold beat hard for an 
hour ; serve in custard-cups. 

Eggs d Zabagone. — Beat the yolks of six eggs with as 
much Cyprus or Malaga wine as the eggshells will con- 
tain ; add three spoonfuls of powdered, sifted sugar ; heat 
d bain-marie, stirring or beating all the time; when it 
thickens pour into glasses and serve with wafers. 

Curried Eggs. — Slice an onion ; fry it in butter ; take 
out the onion ; add a teacupful of milk and a dessert- 
spoonful of curry-powder ; let it stew untii it is thick, 
then add half a pint of stock, thickened with browned 
flour ; allow this to come almost to a boil, and pour red- 
hot over four hard-boiled eggs, cut in thick slices; it is 
best to cut the eggs and arrange them neatly in a very hot 
dish, with a garland of water-cress round them and thin 
slices of lemon ; then, at the last moment, pour over the 
boiling sauce, and serve at once. 

Devilled Eggs. — Boil the eggs hard, remove the shells, 
and cut the eggs in half^ slicing a bit off the bottoms to 
make them stand upright, d la Columbus; extract the 
yolks, and rub to a smooth paste with melted butter, cay- 
enne pepper, a touch of mustard, and a dash of vinegar ; 
fill the hollowed whites with this, and send to table upon 



EGGS. 249 

a bed of chopped cresses, seasoned with pepper, salt, vinegar, 
and a soupgon of sugar ; the salad should be two inches thick. 

Fondue — Eggs with Cheese (Brillat Savarin). — One egg 
for each guest ; Gruyere cheese, one third the weight of 
the eggs ; butter, the same weight. 

Have the eggs well beaten, and brought to table in a 
chafing-dish, then add the butter, and the cheese grated ; 
light the lamp under the chafing-dish, and stir the mixt- 
ure continually with a wooden spoon, adding meanwhile 
a little salt and cayenne. 

Omelette au Thun (Brillat Savarin). — Take, for six per- 
sons, the roes of two carp, bleach them by throwing them 
for a moment into boiling salted water; take a piece of 
fresh tunny the size of a hen's egg, to which add a small 
chopped onion; hash up the roe, onion, and tunny well 
together, and throw them into a saucepan with a sufficient 
piece of very good butter ; stir continually until the but- 
ter is melted ; take a second piece of butter and mix it 
thoroughly with minced parsley and chives; squeeze the 
juice of a lemon over it, and place it in the dish destined 
to receive the omelette, which you must then place in the 
oven, so that the dish may be thoroughly heated, and the 
butter thoroughly melted, by the time the omelette is 
done; then beat up very thoroughly twelve fresh eggs; 
add the saute, roe, and tunny, stirring furiously to mix all 
together, and proceed to make and cook the omelet as 
usual, endeavoring to turn it out long, thick, and soft. 
" A dish to be reserved for amateurs who know how to 
eat " (Brillat Savarin). 

Truffled Eggs. — Beat four eggs in a dish with a little 
cream and a pinch of salt ; chop up a truffle very fine, add 
this to the eggs and pour into your saucepan, stirring un- 
til it becomes a cream ; it will not require more than five 
minutes to cook. 

11* 



250 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Stuffed Eggs. — Boil a clove of garlic in a little water 
for fifteen minutes; stir in two anchovies and a few 
chopped capers; mix them with the yolks (hard-boiled) 
of eggs; add oil, vinegar, and pepper; stuff this in the 
whites and 6erve. 

Tenderloin Eggs. — Put a piece of butter, sliced onions, 
and sliced mushrooms into a saucepan ; when the onions 
begin to color, stir in a pinch of flour ; moisten with bouil- 
lon and a little white wine; salt and pepper; let it cook 
half an hour until it becomes the consistency of a sauce; 
have your eggs hard-boiled ; put the yolks in whole and 
slice your whites in quarters; let it boil up once, and 
serve hot. 

Bird's -Nest of Eggs. — Boil some eggs hard ; take out 
the yolks carefully,' leaving them whole; cut the whites 
into thin strips, and arrange them on a dish in the form 
of a bird's-nest ; have ready & puree of spinach, with which 
fill up the nest ; on this arrange the yolks in a pyramid ; 
pour over all a rich white sauce and serve. 

Hunter's Omelet. — Beat ten or twelve eggs light, and 
season them with salt and pepper, and, if you choose, a 
very little nutmeg ; butter some little pannikins, and fill 
each with the beaten egg; cook the little omelets care- 
fully, browning both sides, then turn them out on a plate, 
and when cold spread them thickly with anchovy butter, 
and pile one on the other. These omelets are very nice 
for a journey, or hunting and fishing expeditions. • 

Omelette d la Lyonnaise. — Put a large lump of butter 
in a frying or an omelet pan ; then beat eight eggs as 
light as possible, seasoning them with pepper, salt, and a 
pinch of grated Parmesan cheese ; when they are as light 
as they can be, and the butter melted, pour the eggs into 
the omelet-pan, and shake the pan in such a way that the 



EGGS. 251 

omelet will form without being touched with a spoon ; 
when it is formed and brown roll it, and serve on a hot 
dish. 

Omelette d V Allemonde or Schmarn. — Put into a dish 
four teaspoonfuls of the finest white flour sifted; three 
whole eggs; the yolks of three more; half a tumblerful 
of good cream ; salt and pepper to taste. 

Beat all smoothly together, pass through a sieve, and 
fry in an omelet-pan with plenty of butter ; take care to 
keep this omelet thin, and pierce it, while cooking, in dif- 
ferent places with a silver fork; when nicely browned 
fold and dish. 

Omelet, Plain. — Six eggs, whites and yolks beaten sep- 
arately and to the very utmost; one small cupful of rich 
milk. 

When the yolks are beaten thick add the milk, and beat 
hard and long ; then add the beaten whites, and pepper 
and salt ; have ready a large lump of butter in a hot fry- 
ing-pan ; when the butter hisses, pour in the omelet and 
cook ten minutes over a clear fire ; do not stir the omelet, 
but watch carefully and slip a spatula or broad-bladed 
knife under it as the eggs "set;" when done cover the 
omelet-pan with a large hot plate, and upset the omelet 
cleverly on the plate ; eat at once, as it soon falls. 

Omelette aux Fines Herbes. — Make as above ; but beat 
into the eggs and milk two tablespoonfuls of chopped 
parsley, green thyme, and sweet marjoram, with pepper 
and salt ; fry as above. 

Omelet with Asparagus. — Take the green tops of young 
asparagus, stew until tender, mince, season, and beat in 
when the omelet is ready for the pan. 

Cauliflower Omelet. — Chop some cold cauliflower very 



252 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

fine, and mix in when the omelet is ready for the pan ; 
season with pepper, 6alt, cayenne, and a pinch of Parme- 
san cheese. 

Omelet with Mushrooms. — Cook some mushrooms until 
tender ; then chop fine and beat into the omelet just as it 
is ready to fry. 

Or, you may take stewed mushrooms, lay them on the 
top of the omelet when it is cooked, fold, and dish at 
once. 

Omelet with Tomatoes. — Make an omelet as above ; 
when cooked lay on it some stewed tomatoes, fold, and 
serve. 

Omelet with Artichokes. — Chop some cold boiled arti- 
chokes very fine, beat into the omelet, season, and fry as 
usual. 

Omelet with Oysters will be found under the head of 

" Oysters." 

Omelet with Ham, Tongue, Chicken, or Smoked Beef. — 
Make as above ; but when the omelet is cooked sprinkle 
it thickly with the meat preferred, fold, and serve. 



\ 



MILK AND BUTTER. 

GENERAL RULES FOE ATTENDING- TO MILK AND BUTTER. 

Keep in a cool cellar, dairy, or milk-room. Allow no 
strongly flavored substances to be in the neighborhood of 
milk or butter. Place upon swing shelves. Use broad, 
shallow earthenware pans if you can get them ; if not, tin 
pans made in one piece ; keep pans, jars,crocks, and churn 
exquisitely clean and fresh, scalding and airing persistently 
and continually ; scald your pans alwaj^s a short time be- 
fore straining the milk into them ; then set the pans on 
swing shelves, and in twelve hours skim for the table ; 
then let it stand twelve hours more for the second rising 
of the cream ; put this into the stone jar or crock in which 
the cream is kept for churning. It is always worth while 
to do this, as tire second rising of cream repays the trouble. 
As soon as the cream " loppers," or thickens, churn. 

Fresh Butter. — Scald the churn thoroughly, then cool as 
thoroughly with ice or spring water, then pour in the thick 
cream ; churn fast at first, then, as the butter forms, more 
slowly, always with perfect regularity ; in warm weather 
pour a little cold water into the churn, should the butter 
form slowly ; take it up with the perforated dasher, turning 
it dexterously just below the surface of the buttermilk, to 
catch every stray bit; have ready some clear, very cold water, 
in a deep wooden tray, and into this plunge the dasher when 
you draw it from the churn ; the butter will float off, leav- 
ing the dasher free. When you have collected all the but- 
ter, gather behind a wooden butter shovel, and drain off the 
water, squeezing and pressing the butter with the shovel ; 



254 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

set in a cool place, for an hour, to harden, then work and 
knead it until not another drop of water exudes, and the 
butter is perfectly smooth and close in texture and polish ; 
then with the paddle make up into rolls, little balls, 
stamped pats, etc. 

Salt Butter. — Proceed precisely as above, but when you 
have worked out the buttermilk, add by degrees fine salt, 
in the proportion of a dessertspoonful to every pound ; 
then set aside for some hours, always in a cool place ; then 
mould as above. Wrap each roll in a clean, wet linen cloth, 
with no touch of soap or starch about it, and pack in a 
stone jar, sprinkling a little salt between the layers. 

Salt Butter, to Keep. — "Work with special care, and pack 
down hard in a perfectly clean stone jar ; it must be a fresh 
jar, one never before used ; press a fine linen cloth closely 
to the surface, and cover this with a thick layer of clean, 
fine salt ; set in a cool, dry place, and keep closely covered. 

Rennet. — The stomach of a fresh - killed calf, well 
cleaned, and scoured inside and out with salt ; when per- 
fectly clean, tack upon a frame to dry in the sun for a 
day ; cut in squares, pack down in salt, and keep in wine 
or brandy ; when you wish to use the salted, soak half an 
hour in cold water, wash well, and put into the milk to be 
turned, tied to a string, so that you may draw it out with- 
out breaking the curd. Sometimes the dried and salted 
rennet may be bought in the markets and drug shops. 
Bottled rennet is also sold in the drug shops. 

Vrai Fromage a la Grime, No. 1, or Fromage de Chan- 
tilly. — One quart of very rich cream, two or three days 
old ; a pinch of gum arabic, powdered fine. 

Put into an earthenware bowl, which you have sur- 
rounded with pounded ice, and a handful of salt ; whip the 
cream hard and long, until it is as smooth as velvet ; then 



MILK AND BUTTER. 255 

add a little powdered sugar, whipping it in gradually ; then 
put into a wicker basket (or panier de fromage). It should 
be heart-shaped, and lined with a coarse linen cloth. Place 
this in a deep earthenware dish, being careful to put little 
pieces of wood, an inch thick, under the panier de fromage, 
so as to raise it a little ; put the earthenware dish in the re- 
frigerator ; when ready to serve, turn out the fromage on a 
deep dish ; smother with fresh cream, and serve. This is 
the genuine fromage a la crime of the Parisian street cries. 

Fromage a la Crime, Eo. 2, or Fromage de Viry. — One 
half quantity of whipped cream as above; one half quan- 
tity of plain cream cheese. 

Mix to a smooth cream, whip to velvet, whip in sugar 
to taste, and one drop essence of bitter almonds ; then pro- 
ceed as above. 

Fromage a la Creme, "No. 3. — One quart of fresh rich 
milk, heated to tepid warmth ; a piece of rennet as large 
as a pea, dissolved in the milk. 

Put in a covered vessel on the hot coals ; when the milk 
is turned, put into a heart-shaped wicker basket, lined with 
coarse linen. When it has well drained, put into a deep 
dish, smother in rich, fresh cream, dust with fine sugar, 
and serve. 

Old Virginia Cream Cheese. — Put aside a quart of good 
cream until it is sour, and very thick, and stir into it a 
tablespoonful of salt; lay a piece of thin muslin on a hair 
sieve, so as to draw the cheese out in the muslin. Put a 
sieve on a dish, pour in the cream, and let it drain for 
three days, pouring off the whey every morning. If the 
cream will not go in all at once, add it during the day, as 
the whey sinks. It should be of the consistency of butter 
when eaten. Put into a large heart-shaped tin mould to 
press. The bottom of the mould should be pierced with 
round holes, and should stand on little feet, so that the 



256 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

cheese may drain while pressing. Eat with sweet cream 
and sugar. 

New Jersey Cream Cheese. — Scald the milk, and let it 
cool a little before putting in the rennet. When the curd 
is formed, take it out on a ladle without breaking it; lay- 
it on a thin cloth held by two persons ; dash a ladleful of 
water over each ladleful of curd, to separate the curd ; 
hang it up to drain the water off, and then put it under a 
light press for one hour ; cut the curd with a thread into 
small pieces ; lay a cloth between each two, and press for 
an hour ; take them out, rub them with fine salt, let them 
lie on a board for an hour, and wash them in cold water ; 
let them lie to drain, and in a day or two the skin will look 
dry ; put some sweet grass under and over them, and they 
will soon ripen. 

Neufchatel Cheese. — Stir a little salt into a pan of lop- 
pered cream ; pour into a linen bag, and let it drain three 
days, changing the bag every day; then pack into a 
wooden mould with holes in the bottom, and press two 
hours ; wet the mould in cold water before putting in the 
cream curd; wrap each cheese in several folds of soft, 
white tissue paper, and put into a cool place. Thus ar- 
ranged, these cheeses will keep for a week. 

Cottage or Pot Cheese. — Heat sour milk until the whey 
rises to the top ; pour it off, put the curd in a bag, and 
let it drip six hours without squeezing it; put into a 
wooden bowl, chop fine with a wooden spoon, salt to taste, 
and work to the consistency of soft putty, adding a little 
cream and butter as you proceed. Mould with your hands 
into round balls, and keep in a cool place. Fot-cheese 
should be eaten fresh. It is delicious with brown bread 
and fresh butter, and just a little soupgon of red pepper. 

Junket, or Slip and Co Down — One quart of rich milk; 



MILK AND BUTTER. 257 

one piece of rennet, or a teaspoonful of the wine in 
which the rennet is kept, to each quart of milk ; one ta- 
blespoonf ul of powdered sugar to each quart ; a little nut- 
meg. 

Cover closely, and set in a very warm place for an hour. 
If by that time there are no signs of stiffening, add more 
rennet. When it is as firm as blanc-mange, and before the 
whey separates, remove the rennet ; then set the junket 
upon ice until wanted ; dust lightly with finely grated nut- 
meg, and eat with powdered sugar and cream. 

Bonny Clabber, or Zqppered Milk. — Set a dish of 
skimmed milk away in a warm place, closely covered ; 
when it turns, i. e., becomes smooth and firm like blanc- 
mange, serve in the same dish ; grate a little nutmeg over 
it, and eat with powdered sugar and cream. 

Thickened Milk. — One quart of milk ; a pinch of salt ; 
two tablespoonfuls of rice flour wet in cold milk. 

Stir smoothly the rice flour into the boiling milk, and let 
it thicken in a vessel placed in a pan of boiling water, keep- 
ing the water at a hard boil for an hour ; stir continually, 
or it will not be quite smooth. 

Staffordshire Syllabub. — One pint of cider ; one wine- 
glassful of brandy ; sugar to taste ; a pinch of nutmeg. 

Put into a very deep bowl ; stir well until the sugar is 
thoroughly dissolved ; then fasten a fine hair sieve over 
the bowl, and milk into it. This is the genuine, far-famed 
Staffordshire syllabub. 

Somersetshire Syllabub. — In a large china bowl put a 
pint of port and a pint of sherry ; sugar to taste ; milk 
the bowl full. 

In twenty minutes' time cover it pretty high with 
clotted cream ; grate nutmeg over it ; put also some pow- 
dered cinnamon and nonpareil comfits. 



258 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Posset Syllabub. — Mix a quart of thick cream with one 
pound of lump sugar, and a pint of white wine ; rub a 
few lumps of sugar on the rind of two or three lemons to 
extract the essence ; pour upon them the juice of three 
lemons; add this to the cream and whisk one way until 
thick. 

Devonshire Clotted Cream. — That made from the milk 
of the Alderney or Guernsey cow is the richest, apparently 
irrespective of pasture. The milk of one day is scalded 
on the next. It is best to scald it over hot water. The 
milk-pans should be of tin, round, about forty-two inches 
in circumference at the top, and five inches deep. They 
should fit on another pan which holds the hot water and 
stands on the stove ; it takes about half an hour to scald 
the cream, the water in the under tin being kept boiling. 

Devonshire Cream Curds. — Seven eggs; three gills of 
water ; three pints of milk ; one gill of rich cream ; one 
tablespoonful of the best vinegar. 

Put all in a stewpan over the fire, and let it boil two 
or three minutes to separate the curd. Eat cold, with 
fruit and sugar. 



BREAD, BISCUIT, MUFFINS, ETC. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR MAKING BREAD. 

Buy new flour if possible ; it takes up more water than 
the old and yields a larger amount of bread. A pint of 
milk in a batch of four loaves of bread gives you a pound 
more bread of better quality, and helps to keep it moist. 
One pound of pea meal, or ground split pease, added to 
every fourteen pounds of flour, increases its nourishment. 
When bread is too stale to eat or to make into bread broth, 
dry it in a cool oven, or over the top of the tire ; roll it 
with a rolling pin ; sift through a sieve, and put into a 
wide-mouthed and closely covered glass jar; keep in a 
dry place, and use for breading fish, chops, croquettes, etc. 
If you have a whole stale loaf, put it into a tightly covered 
tin can and steam it, or put it into a moderately warm oven 
for half an hour. It will then be quite as palatable as 
fresh bread. 

Flour, to Choose. — Flour should be fine, dry, elastic, 
odorless, and tasteless. It should not have even a suspi- 
cion of mustiness or acidity. It should not be moist, nor 
retain the impress of your palm and fingers if you squeeze 
it into a ball. Nor, as you run it through your fingers, 
should it feel musty, damp, or glutinous, but light, dry, 
and almost impalpable. 

Yeast, to Choose. — Should be light in color, lively, ef- 
fervescing easily when shaken, and emitting an odor like 
weak ammonia. If dull or sour it is not fit to use. 



260 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Yeast without Hops. — This yeast is desirable, as it never 
tastes bitter, even in hot cakes. Five large potatoes, grated ; 
one quart of boiling water ; one teacupful of yeast ; one 
teacupful of brown sugar ; one tablespoonful of salt. 

Add the potatoes when grated to the quart of boiling 
water ; boil five minutes, then remove it from the fire, 
and add the teacupful of brown sugar and the tablespoon- 
ful of salt. When it cools, add the yeast. 

Potato Yeast. — Twelve good -sized potatoes, peeled, 
boiled, and mashed ; one handful of hops, boiled in a quart 
of water; one cupful of brown sugar; half a cupful of 
salt ; one cupful of good yeast. 

Measure the hop tea when done, and pour it on the 
mashed potatoes. Measure the water in which the pota- 
toes were boiled, and then, from a kettle of boiling water, 
make up what is wanting of a gallon of fluid ; add the 
brown sugar and the salt ; let it stand until lukewarm, 
and then add the yeast; set it to rise for twenty -four 
hours. This yeast will ferment like beer. 

Sponge made of the Above. — Mash a hot boiled potato ; 
mix it with about two quarts of flour, and two large kitch- 
enspoonfuls of the yeast; beat it well, and set it to rise 
about one p.m. ; about seven, make up the bread with this 
sponge. 

Yeast for Bread (Pennsylvania receipt). — Two quarts 
of very strong hop tea; six good -sized white potatoes, 
mashed through a sieve ; half a teacupful of finest white 
flour, sifted ; half a teacupful of salt ; one teacupful of 
sugar. 

Beat this mixture until quite smooth, and let it boil up 
once; when cold, add a piece of leaven or some yeast to 
set it going, and bottle and cork it tight ; shake it well 
before using it. For bread, take two tablespoonfnls to 
each quart of flour. 



BKEAD, BISCUIT, MUFFINS, ETC. 261 

Bread — General Rides. — Imprimis, use none but the 
best flour; sift all white flour well and thoroughly. 

2. Mix the dough as soft as it can be handled. 

3. Set the dough to rise in a moderately warm place, 
and keep it at an even temperature. If by any accident 
you should And your dough puffy and sour, dissolve a little 
soda or saleratus in hot water, and work it well in. 

4. Knead the bread faithfully and from all sides, until 
it rebounds like an India-rubber ball from a smart blow 
of the fist on the centre of the mass. 

5. The oven should not be too hot, and the heat should 
be perfectly steady after the bread goes in. If you cannot 
hold your bare arm in the oven while you count thirty, 
the oven is too hot to bake bread. 

6. Grease your pans well before putting in the bread. 

7. When you take the bread from the oven, turn out 
from the pan, and stand each loaf upright on edge ; the 
lower part resting on the table, the upper supported by 
some upright object. Throw a clean, dry, light cloth over 
all. Do not put away until quite cold. Then keep in a 
tin bread box, folded in clean cloths. 

Bread Sjponcje (Mary Anne's). — Six potatoes, peeled, 
boiled, and mashed fine while hot ; six tablespoonf uls of 
baker's yeast ; two tablespoonfuls of white sugar ; two 
tablespoonf uls of lard ; one teaspoonf ul of soda ; one quart 
of warm water ; three cups of finest white flour, sifted. 

Mash the potatoes, and work in the lard and sugar. 
Work to a cream, mixing in gradually a quart of the water 
in which the potatoes were boiled. This water should be 
used blood-warm. Beat in the flour smoothly, then the 
yeast, lastly the soda. Cover lightly if the weather is 
warm; more closely in winter, and set to rise overnight 
in a warm place. 

Family Bread, White, No. 1 (Mary Anne's). — For the 
above sponge, sift two quarts and a pint of flour into the 



262 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

bread-tray ; sift with the flour three teaspoonfuls of fine salt; 
make a hole in the middle of the heap ; pour in the risen 
sponge; flour your hands thoroughly, and work down the 
flour into the sponge with your hands. If you can mould 
it at all, it is not too soft. If too stiff, rinse out the bowl 
in which the sponge was set with a little lukewarm water, 
and work this well in. As soon as you have the dough in 
manageable shape, begin to knead, and knead steadily for 
half an hour at least ; knead always towards the centre of 
the mass, turning it repeatedly over and over, and round 
and round, that no portion may escape manipulation ; lift 
the dough from the toy in your left hand, while with 
your right you sprinkle flour thickly over the bottom and 
sides of the tray ; toss back the dough, and knead and turn 
as before. AVhen the half -hour is up, form the dough into 
around ball ; sprinkle flour on the top ; place in the centre 
of the kneading-tray ; cover with a clean cloth, and leave 
on the kitchen table to rise, taking care it is not in a 
draught of cold air. ]£ will need four or Ave hours to rise 
in summer, and six in winter. The dough will in that 
time treble its original bulk. Then knead again for fifteen 
minutes; divide into loaves; prick each with a fork; put 
into greased pans ; cover with a clean cloth, and leave for 
an hour. Then bake, following the directions given above 
for baking. One hour in a good oven ought to be enough 
for the above quantity. 

Family Bread, White, No. 2 (Old Humphrey). — Four 
quarts of finest wheat flour, sifted ; one quart of milk-warm 
water ; half a pint of baker's yeast ; one tablespoonf ul of salt. 

Dissolve the salt in the water, and add the yeast ; put 
the flour into a kneading-bowl ; make a hollow in the 
middle of the flour, and pour the yeast and water into it, 
leaving a wall of the dry flour around it, after beating it 
well ; then place the pan in a warm, dry place, in the 
kitchen, if it be winter. In warm weather, a cooler place 
must be selected. Cover it well, and let it stand all night ; 



BREAD, BISCUIT, MUFFINS, ETC. 263 

this must be done before bedtime. About eight or nine 
o'clock the next morning the dough will have risen, and cov- 
ered nearly all the flour on the sides ; then knead in the flour 
until the dough is soft, and easily kneaded ; take it out of 
the pan, and knead it thoroughly on the paste-board ; then 
cut into three or four pieces, and knead each by itself ; lay 
each piece in a buttered baking-pan ; set them in a warm 
place for two or three hours ; they must rise nearly to the 
top of the pans ; bake them for about half an hour ; keep 
the oven closed for ten or fifteen minutes before venturiDg 
to open the door. If an oven heated by wood is used, the 
bread will require nearly double the time. 

Bread, Made Soft and Quickly (Mary Anne's). — Three 
quarts of flour (finest white flour, well sifted) ; half a pint 
of yeast ; one tablespoonf ul of lard ; one tablespoonf ul of 
salt; warm water enough to make a dough. 

Dissolve the lard and salt in the warm water; then add 
the yeast, then the flour, gradually, stirring it with a spoon ; 
set it to rise in a warm place all night. In the morning 
take a part of the dough, and mould it into biscuits for 
breakfast. Knead the rest as above ; then put it into 
pans, letting it rise in the pans for half an hour before 
baking. 

Brown Bread (William Penn's). — One quart of Graham 
flour, sifted; one pint of Indian meal, sifted ; one cupful of 
molasses; one teaspoonful of soda ; one teaspoonful of salt ; 
one quart of cold water. 

Mix all gradually and smoothly together ; steam it in a 
pudding boiler for four hours ; turn it out on a baking 
plate, and bake one hour. 

New England Brown Bread. — Two cupf uls of Indian 
meal ; two cupfuls of rye meal ; one cupful of wheat 
flour; one cupful of molasses; one and a half pints of 
sweet milk; one teaspoonful of soda ; one pinch of salt. 



264 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Cook, d bain-marie, four and a half hours without stop- 
ping. This bread is never baked. 

Milk Bread. — One quart of milk, blood- warm ; half a 
teacupful of yeast ; a quarter of a pound of butter ; one 
tablespoonf ul of white sugar. 

Stir into the milk a pint of sifted flour, the sugar, and 
lastly the yeast ; beat all together well, and allow to rise 
five or six hours ; then melt the butter, and add with a 
little salt ; work in flour enough to make a stiff dough ; 
let this rise four hours, then make into small loaves, and 
into crescents, like Yienna bread ; set near the fire for half 
an hour, and bake in buttered pans. In warm weather 
add to the risen sponge a teaspoonf ul of soda, dissolved in 
warm water. 

Buttermilk Bread. — One pint of buttermilk, scalding 
hot ; half a gill of yeast ; one teaspoonf ul of soda, dis- 
solved in hot water ; a little salt ; two tablespoonf uls of 
melted butter. 

Stir into the buttermilk, while hot, enough flour to make 
a tolerably thick batter ; add the yeast, and let it rise five 
or six hours ; in the morning stir into the sponge first the 
soda, as directed, then the salt, sugar, and melted butter; 
work in just enough flour to enable you to handle the 
dough easily ; knead well ; make into loaves, and let it 
rise until light. Bake as usual. 

Bice Bread. — Make a sponge of one quart of warm 
water ; one teacupful of yeast ; one tablespoonful of white 
sugar ; two tablespoonf uls of lard ; one quart of wheat 
flour, sifted. When risen, add three pints of warm milk ; 
three teacupfuls of rice flour, wet to a paste, with cold 
milk, and boiled four minutes. 

The sponge will take five hours to rise. The milk and 
rice flour should be stirred in blood-warm. If the dough 
should be still too thin to handle, add just enough wheat 



BREAD, BISCUIT, MUFFINS, ETC. 265 

flour to enable you to do so ; knead thoroughly. Allow 
the bread to rise twice, and bake as usual. 

Lowell Brown Bread. — Three teacupfuls of Indian 
meal ; two teacupfuls of rye meal ; half a teacupf ul of 
molasses ; one teaspoonful of salt ; one teaspoonf ul of soda. 

Mix in a little less than a quart of milk, and bake it for 
two hours. 

Rye and Indian Bread. — One quart of Indian meal ; 
half a cupful of molasses. 

Pour on enough boiling water to scald all the meal 
thoroughly ; set it away to cool, and, when it becomes 
milk-warm, add one pint of rye flour, one cupful of yeast, 
and a little salt. Steam it for three hours, and bake for 
one hour. 

Wisconsin Steamed Brown Bread. — Three cupfuls of 
sweet milk ; one cupful of sour milk ; three cupfuls of 
corn meal, sifted ; one cupful of flour, sifted ; half a cupful 
of molasses ; a piece of butter the size of a small egg ; one 
teaspoonful of saleratus dissolved in hot water; a pinch 
of salt. 

Make up into dough ; knead well, and steam three hours. 
Be sure to cover the basin tightly within the steamer. 

Graham Bread, No. 1. — One quart of Graham flour, 
sifted; half a cupful of yeast; one teaspoonful of salt; 
two tablespoonf uls of molasses. 

Mix with warm water to a stiff batter, knead, and, 
when light, bake for one hour. 

Graham Bread, No. 2. — One quart of Graham flour, 
sifted ; one small cupful of molasses ; one teaspoonful of 
soda sifted dry into the flour; one tablespoonful of lard ; 
one pinch of salt ; sour milk enough to make a stiff batter. 

Stir it very quickly, and bake it slowly in deep pans. 

12 



266 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Graham Bread, "No. 3. — Three cupfuls of Graham 
flour ; one cupful of white flour, sifted ; one quart of 
water ; two tablespoonfuls of yeast ; two tablespoonfuls 
of molasses. 

Mix and knead as usual, and steam as you steam Wis- 
consin Brown Bread. 

Brown Bread. — Make a sponge as for white bread, 
using potatoes or white flour ; allow two parts of Graham 
flour, unsifted ; one third white. 

For every quart of this mixture, allow one handful of 
Indian meal, and one teaspoonf ul of salt ; wet this up with 
the sponge, and, when well mixed, add for every loaf of 
fair size half a teacupf ul of molasses. The dough should 
be very soft. If there is not enough sponge to reduce it 
to the required consistency, add a little blood-warm water ; 
knead hard and long; it will rise very slowly; put it 
down for a second rising, after you have kneaded it the 
second time. Bake steadily for a longer time than you 
would white bread. Take care that it does not burn, and 
do not cut while hot. 

Brown Bread. — Half a pint of flour; one pint of corn 
meal ; half a pint of rye flour; one teaspoonful of salt ; 
two teaspoonf uls of baking-powder ; one tablespoonful of 
brown sugar ; sift together until thoroughly mixed. 

Peel, wash, and boil two medium-sized potatoes, rub 
them through a sieve, and beat them well, with half a pint 
of water ; make a batter of this and of the meal ; butter 
a deep basin or small pan, and pour the batter in, then set 
the pan in a kettle of boiling water; cover and cook in 
this way for an hour ; then put the bread in a hot oven 
for half an hour. 

Milk Bread. — One quart of milk ; half a teacupf ul of 
yeast ; one pint of sifted flour ; one quarter of a pound of 
butter ; one tablespoonful of white sugar. 



BREAD, BISCUIT, MUFEINS, ETC. 267 

Stir into the milk, when blood -warm, first the flour, 
then the sugar, and lastly the yeast ; beat long and well, 
and allow to rise for five or six hours ; then add the but- 
ter melted, and a little salt; work in flour enough to 
make a stiff dough ; let this rise four hours, then make 
into small loaves ; set near the fire for half an hour, and 
bake. 

Buttermilk Biscuit. — One pint of buttermilk; one 
teaspoonful of soda sifted into the flour ; two teaspoon- 
fuls of melted butter ; enough fine white flour to make a 
soft dough. 

Mix, roll, cut out quickly, lay in buttered pans, and bake 
iu a quick oven. 

Flannel Biscuit. — Half a pint of cream; whites of 
two eggs; one tablespoonful of yeast; enough white sift- 
ed flour to make a thin batter. 

Beat all well together, adding the flour last; bake in 
small square tins, on a buttered pan, and in a quick oven. 

Rye-Flour Drop Cakes. — One quart of milk; two ta- 
blespoonfuls of cream ; three eggs, well beaten ; a little 
salt ; enough rye flour to make pancake batter. 

Mix in the order above given ; then beat the batter 
hard and long, with a large iron spoon, adding more flour 
in order to make the dough a little stiffer ; then dip the 
spoon in milk, then in the rye batter, and drop in buttered 
drop-irons; bake in a quick oven to a fine brown. 

Light Biscuit (Dinah's). — One quart of wheat flour, 
well sifted ; one teaspoonful of salt ; one teacupful of 
yeast ; one tablespoonful of sugar, dissolved in the yeast ; 
one egg', a piece of lard the size of a walnut. 

Sprinkle the salt into the flour ; then add the lard, egg, 
yeast, and sugar, with enougli warm water to make a soft 
dough ; put into a pan, cover, and set to rise in a warm 



268 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

place ; when well risen, work in a little more flour, and 
make it into small rolls ; put them into a hot oven, and 
bake. 

Soda Biscuit (Dinah's). — One quart of flour ; two cup- 
f uls of fresh milk ; one teaspoonf ul of soda ; one teaspoon- 
f ul of cream of tartar ; one saltspoonf ul of salt ; two heap- 
ing tablespoonfuls of lard or butter. 

Rub the soda and cream of tartar well through the flour, 
and sift all together carefully and thoroughly ; then put 
in the salt, then the lard or butter, rubbing it carefully 
into the sifted flour; lastly, pour in the milk; roll the 
dough out smoothly and quickly, handling as little as pos- 
sible. It should be very soft, nearly as soft as it can be 
handled ; if the flour should make it too stiff, add more 
milk. Roll out lightly ; cut into cakes half an inch thick ; 
lay in buttered pans; and bake in a quick oven. 

Graham Biscuit ("Common-Sense in the Household"). 
— Three cupfuls of Graham flour; one cupful of white 
flour; three cupfuls of fresh or sweet milk; two table- 
spoonfuls of lard ; one heaping tablespoonful of white 
sugar ; one saltspoonf ul of salt ; one teaspoonf ul of soda ; 
two teaspoonf uls of cream of tartar. 

Mix and bake as you do the white soda biscuit. 

Graham Wafer Biscuit. — One pint of Graham flour ; 
one quart of boiling milk ; one teaspoonful of salt. 

Salt the flour, and mix with the milk into as soft a 
dough as you can handle; roll half an inch thick, cut into 
round cakes, lay in buttered pans, and bake in the hottest 
oven you can get. 

Bread Biscuit Bolls. — Set aside from the risen dough 
enough to make some rolls; work in a heaping table- 
spoonful of lard or butter, and let it stand in a tolerably 
cool place for four hours; knead again, and leave for three 



BREAD, BISCUIT, MUFFINS, ETC. 269 

hours ; then form into small rolls ; put them into but- 
tered pans; let the rolls rise again for an hour, then bake 
in a quick oven half an hour. 

liaised Biscuit (Dinah's). — One quart of warm milk ; 
three quarters of a cup of butter, melted ; three quarters 
of a cup of yeast ; two tablespoonfuls of white sugar, one 
teaspoonful of salt ; flour enough to make a soft dough. 

Mix overnight. In the morning roll into a sheet three 
quarters of an inch thick ; cut these into round cakes ; set 
them closely in a buttered baking- pan, let them rise 
twenty minutes, and bake twenty minutes. They are 
very good. 

Milk Cakes. — One and a half pounds of finest white 
flour, sifted ; two ounces of butter; a pinch of salt ; a tea- 
spoonful of baking-powder. 

Roll out the paste thin, and cut into flat cakes ; put into 
a greased or buttered pan, and bake for one hour in a quick 
oven. 

Tea Loaves.— One pound of flour (as above) ; two eggs ; 
two ounces of butter; one teaspoonful of baking-powder ; 
half a teaspoonful of salt. 

Knead with milk into small loaves, and bake from ten 
to fifteen minutes. 

Brown- Bread Biscuit. — One pound of coarse brown 
flour or oatmeal flour; two ounces of butter; a little 
water. 

Make the butter and water boiling hot, and add both to 
the flour, keeping the paste firm ; roll out very thin ; cut 
into round shapes with a tumbler; put into a greased or 
buttered pan, and bake for ten minutes in a quick oven. 

Crumpets. — To a quart of warm milk and water add a 
tablespoonfnl of good yeast, and two eggs, well beaten. 



270 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Mix with these, by degrees, as much sifted flour as will 
make a thick batter ; then heat a very small frying-pan ; 
rub it with butter, and pour in a large spoonful of batter, 
which will spread over the pan. Watch the under side 
by raising it with a fork, and, when brown, turn it, watch- 
ing the other side in the same way. When wanted for 
the table they should be toasted, buttered, and sent up hot. 

Muffins. — Two pounds of sifted flour; two eggs, well- 
beaten ; two ounces of butter, melted in a pint of milk ; 
four or five spoonfuls of yeast. 

Beat thoroughly, and set to rise for two or three hours ; 
bake in greased muffin rings on a hot griddle. 

Laplanders. — One pint of flour ; one pint of milk ; two 
eggs, well beaten, whites and yolks separately; one pinch 
of salt ; one tablespoonful of melted butter. 

Mix the milk and flour smoothly together; then beat 
the yolks of the eggs, and stir them in with the salt and 
batter; stir the whites of the eggs in last, beating all well 
together; have the pan very hot, and drop in a large 
spoonful for each biscuit. 

Marylanders. — Two quarts of sifted flour ; two table- 
spoonfuls of lard; two tablespoonfuls of butter; a little 
water and salt. 

Make the dough as stiff as possible ; then work and 
knead it for half an hour, or longer, until very soft and 
pliable ; then beat it with a rolling pin for about an hour, 
or until the dough cracks loudly; cut into small rounds; 
prick with a fork, and bake in a quick oven. The success 
of this delicious biscuit depends upon the long-continued 
pounding. 

Wafer Biscuit. — One pound of sifted flour ; one ounce 
of butter ; beaten white of one egg; as much milk as will 
make a thick paste. 



BREAD, BISCUIT, MUFFINS, ETC. 271 

Work the paste np well ; then set before the fire 

for twenty minutes ; roll out as thin as paper, cut 

into round cakes, and bake three minutes in a quick 
oven. 

Captain'' s Biscuit. — Pour enough milk over some sifted 
flour to enable you to roll it out ; knead and roll into 
smooth, thin sheets; cut into rounds; prick with a fork, 
and bake from ten to fifteen minutes in a quick oven. 

Orange Biscuits. — Boil whole Seville oranges in two 
or three waters until most of the bitterness is gone ; ci^ 
them and take out the pulp and juice ; then pound the 
rinds to a fine paste in a mortar, and put to it an equal 
weight of double-refined sugar, beaten and sifted ; when 
mixed to a smooth paste spread on china dishes and set in 
the sun or before the fire to dry ; when half dry cut into 
rounds ; turn the other side, and dry that. Keep in a box 
between layers of tissue paper. 

Fayal Biscuit. — One cupful of sifted flour ; one cupful 
of milk ; three eggs, well beaten ; piece of butter the size 
of an egg ; two teaspoonf uls of baking-powder ; beat all 
well together, and bake in rings. 

Passover Bread. — Six Passover biscuits, soaked all 
night ; a very little milk ; piece of butter the size of an 
egg (melted) ; pepper and salt to taste ; drain the soaked 
biscuits; chop them fine; mix with the seasoning the but- 
ter and a very little milk. 

Make the mixture into a large cake, and fry it well on 
both sides in butter. 

Batter Bread (Old Virginia Breakfast Cake). — Six 
tablespoonfuls of sifted flour ; three tablespoonfuls of corn 
meal ; four eggs beaten well ; enough milk to enable you 
to make the whole into a thin batter ; add a pinch of salt ; 



2V2 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

heat well ; put into small tin moulds, and bake in a quick 
oven. 

Rice Muffins. — One cupful of cold boiled rice ; one pint 
of flour, sifted ; two eggs ; one quart of fresh milk ; one 
tablespoonful of lard or butter; one teaspoonful of salt. 

Beat hard, and bake quickly. 

Hominy Waffles. — Half a pint of cold boiled hominy; 
half a pint of rice flour; two tablespoonfuls of wheat flour; 
one pint of milk ; one tablespoonful of butter ; two eggs 
well beaten. 

Mix, and bake in waflle irons. 

Grandmamma JY.'s Waffles. — Make precisely as above, 
substituting cold boiled farina for the hominy. Grand- 
mamma EVs waffles are delicious. 

Buttermilk Muffins. — One quart of buttermilk, or lop- 
pered sweet milk ; two eggs well beaten ; one teaspoonful 
of soda dissolved in hot water ; one teaspoonful of salt ; 
flour to make a good batter. 

Stir the beaten eggs into the milk, then the flour and 
salt, and, lastly, the soda; bake at once in a quick oven. 

Hominy Muffins. — Three cupf uls of sour milk ; two 
cupfuls of fine hominy, boiled and cold; three eggs well 
beaten, yolks and whites separately ; half a cupful of melt- 
ed butter ; two teaspoonfuls of salt ; two tablespoonfuls of 
white sugar; one large cupful of flour, sifted; one tea- 
spoonful of soda dissolved in hot water. 

Beat the hominy smooth ; then stir in the milk, butter, 
salt, and sugar; then the eggs, soda, and flour; bake in a 
quick oven. 

Bread Muffins. — Take four thick slices of light, stale, 
baker's bread, and cut off all the crust ; lay them in a pan 



BREAD, BISCUIT, MUFFINS, ETC. 273 

and pour boiling water over them, but barely enough to 
soak them well ; cover the bread, and when it has stood 
an hour drain off the water and stir the soaked bread until 
it is a smooth mass ; then mix in two tablespoonf uls of 
sifted flour, and half a pint of milk; having beaten two 
eggs — yolks and whites separately — to their utmost capac- 
ity, stir them gradually into the mixture ; when all the in- 
gredients are smoothly mixed together, pour into greased 
muffin rings and bake on a hot griddle ; bake brown, send 
to table hot, pull apart, and butter. They are very good. 

Soft Muffins. — One quart of milk ; three eggs, beaten 
to the utmost; two ounces of butter; one teaspoonful of 
salt ; two large tablespoonf uls of brewer's yeast, or four of 
home-made; enough sifted flour to make a stiff batter. 

Warm the milk and butter together, and add the salt ; 
beat the eggs very light, and stir them into the milk and 
butter; then stir in the yeast, and, lastly, flour enough to 
make a thick batter ; cover the mixture, and set it to rise 
for three hours in a warm place ; when it is quite light, 
grease the baking-iron and rings, set the rings on the iron, 
pour the batter into them, and bake a light brown. 

Griddle Muffins. — One quart of milk; four eggs; one 
tablespoonful of salt ; one pound and ten ounces of the 
finest white flour, sifted. 

Beat all well together, and add three tablespoonfuls of 
brewer's yeast ; set it to rise for two or three hours before 
needed, and bake the muffins in rings. 

Oven Muffins. — One quart of milk; four eggs; one ta- 
blespoonful of salt ; two pounds of the finest white flour, 
sifted. 

Warm the milk and heat all together well ; then add 
half a cupful of home-made yeast ; set it to rise for nine 
hours ; then bake the muffins in. rings in a quick oven for 
ten minutes. 

12* 



274 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Madison Muffins. — Three pints of flour ; two eggs ; a 
tablespoonful of lard ; two teaspoonfuls of white sugar in 
a cupful of yeast. 

Make up the muffins with warm milk — a little softer 
than for light bread ; in the morning roll out the dough, 
cut it out like biscuit, and bake in an oven. 

Flour Muffins. — One pint of flour; one pint of new 
milk ; a small piece of butter ; two eggs, whites and yolks 
beaten separately ; and a little salt. 

Mix, bake, and serve quickly, as they fall by standing. 

Cream Muffins. — One quart of sweet cream ; one quart 
of the finest white flour, sifted ; six eggs well beaten, 
whites and yolks separately ; one tablespoonful of butter, 
one tablespoonful of lard, melted together. 

Add the milk to the beaten eggs, then a little salt, then 
the shortening, lastly the flour, stirring it in lightly ; bake 
immediately in well-greased rings half filled with batter; 
the oven should be hot, and the muffins eaten as soon as 
baked. 

Pikelets. — One and a half ounces of German yeast, a 
little flour, a cupful of melted butter, a quart of warm 
milk, and a little salt. 

Make the milk warm, and stir it into the yeast with the 
salt; add a sufficient quantity of flour to make it into a 
batter; set it to rise for half an hour; then add a cupful 
of melted butter, stir it well in, pour the batter into iron 
rings previously prepared on a hot griddle, and bake them 
lightly on both sides ; when required, toast them on each 
side, taking care they do not burn ; butter them nicely, cut 
them across, and put them on a hot plate, serving them 
quickly and hot. 

Tea Cakes. — To make a baking-powder for tea cakes, 
take half a pound of carbonate of soda, half a pound of 



BREAD, BISCUIT, MUEFINS, ETC. 2^5 

cream of tartar, half a pound of fine powdered sugar, half 
a pound of fine table salt ; mix all smoothly and well to- 
gether and pat into a tin. To make the tea cakes, take 
one teaspoonful of this powder, and one pound of the fin- 
est white flour, sifted ; wet with sour milk or cream, mix 
into small, round cakes, and bake in a quick oven. 

Potato Cakes. — Take one pound of mashed potatoes ; 
two ounces of butter ; one pound of the finest white flour, 
sifted ; half a teacupful of cream ; one egg well beaten ; 
and a pinch of salt. 

Mix all well together, then roll out the cakes thin, cut 
them into rounds, and bake in a quick oven. 

General Washington^ Breakfast Bolls. — One pound of 
flour; one pint of milk ; one tablespoonful of butter ; half 
a coffeecupf ul of yeast. 

Beat the batter very light, and set it to rise ; when risen, 
shape it into little pats, and bake them in the oven. 

Potato Polls. — Six large potatoes boiled and mashed ; 
one pint of warm water ; one large tablespoonful of melt- 
ed lard ; a coffeespoonful of salt ; three tablespoonf uls of 
brewer's yeast ; enough sifted flour to make a thick batter. 

Set it to rise in a warm place for an hour or more; 
when quite light make it into a stiff dough, and knead it 
a long time ; cut it into small cakes, put the cakes in pans, 
and set them to rise on the warm hearth ; bake in a quick 
oven ten minutes. 

Gems. — Four cupfuls of sifted flour ; one and a half 
cupf uls of milk ; one and a half cupfuls of water. 

Mix and beat thoroughly and lightly for ten minutes; 
heat the gem pans hot in the oven, then butter them ; fill 
them two thirds full, and bake in a hot oven. 

Pacific Rolls. — One pint of milk ; one and a half pints 



276 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

of sifted flour ; one egg well beaten ; half a teaspoonf ul 
of salt. 

Stir the milk by degrees into the flour, then add the 
egg, and beat all thoroughly for a few minutes ; bake in 
a roll pan half an hour in a quick oven. 

Betty's Molls. — One quart of milk ; half a cupful of 
yeast ; two tablespoonf uls of lard ; two tablespoonf uls of 
sugar; a pinch of salt. 

Mix to a batter early in the morning, and at noon knead 
it like bread ; roll it out ; cut it into rolls with a small 
saucer. It must rise at least two hours before baking. 

Parker House Molls. — Two- quarts of sifted flour; one 
cupful of yeast (fresh); one tablespoonf ul of sugar; one 
pint of cold boiled milk; one pinch of salt; one piece of 
butter the size of an egg. 

Rub the butter well into the flour, then add the other 
ingredients, and let rise all night. In the morning knead 
it well ; about two o'clock in the afternoon roll out the 
dough and cut it into circular pieces; then fold one side 
over to come to the middle of the circle, and put a piece 
of butter under the fold ; then fold the opposite side in 
like manner, the edges meeting in the middle, and put a 
piece of butter under that also ; bake in pans. 

Tea Molls. — One pint of sifted flour; half a cake of 
yeast; one teacupful of boiling water; one teaspoonf ul 
of lard dissolved in the water ; one pinch of salt ; one egg 
well beaten ; two lumps of loaf sugar. 

Mix all well, and set it to rise for about six hours ; then 
work into rolls, adding more flour if necesssary ; put into 
buttered pans to rise, for fifteen minutes, and bake in a 
quick oven. 

Musks. — One cupful of sweet milk; one cupful of sug- 
ar ; one cupful of flour. 



BREAD, BISCUIT, MUFFINS, ETC. 277 

Stir your flour and sugar in the milk, and set it in a 
warm place for four or five hours to rise ; then beat in a 
tablespoonful of butter and two eggs ; make into rolls ; let 
them rise again, and paint them with the beaten white of 
egg, and bake rapidly in a quick oven. 

Dried Rusk ("Common-Sense in the Household"). — 
One pint of warm milk; two eggs; half a teacupful of 
butter ; half a cupful of yeast ; one teaspoonf ul of salt. 

Set a sponge with these ingredients, leaving out the 
eggs, and stirring in flour until you have a thick batter; 
early next morning add the well-beaten eggs, and flour 
enough to enable you to roll out the dough ; let this rise 
in the bread-bowl two hours ; roll into a sheet nearly an 
inch thick, cut into round cakes, and arrange in a greased 
baking-pan two deep, laying one on the other carefully ; 
let these stand for another half-hour, and bake ; when well 
baked divide the rusks, pile them up loosely in the pan, 
set them in the oven when the fire is declining for the 
night, and leave them there until the morning ; then put 
them into a clean muslin bag and hang them up in the 
kitchen. They will be fit to eat upon the third day ; then 
butter them evenly and carefully ; let them stand in a 
warm, not hot, place until the butter has been absorbed ; 
then put as many as you need in a deep dish, and pour 
over them equal quantities of milk and cream. The milk 
and cream should be stirred together and left on the ice 
an hour before you want to use it. 

Or, you may soak the rusks a moment or two in iced 
milk, and then butter them. 

Scotch Short Bread. — Two pounds of flour, sifted ; one 
pound of the best butter warmed until very soft ; half a 
pound of powdered sugar. 

Chop the flour and butter together, knead in the sugar, 
roll into a sheet half an inch thick, cut into shapes, lay on 
buttered paper in a shallow tin, and bake in a quick oven. 



278 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Old-fashioned Short Bread. — One pound of the finest 
white flour, dried and sifted ; quarter of a pound of but- 
ter; quarter of a pound of lard ; one saltspoonful of salt ; 
a pinch of soda, thoroughly dissolved in just enough vine- 
gar to cover it, and well worked in; enough ice-water to 
enable you to roll out into paste half an inch thick. 

Cut into rounds, prick with a fork, and bake light brown ; 
split, butter, and eat hot. 

Shaker's Short Cake. — Two quarts of flour, sifted ; two 
tablespoonfuls of lard ; three tablespoonf uls of butter ; 
two and a half cupfuls of loppered cream ; two eggs well 
beaten ; one teaspoonf ul of soda dissolved in hot water ; 
one teaspoonful of salt. 

Mix this short cake as soft as you can roll it ; chop up 
the shortening in the salted flour, as for pastry ; add the 
eggs and soda to the milk ; put all together, handling as 
little as possible; roll lightly and rapidly into two sheets — 
the one intended for the upper crust fully half an inch 
thick, the lower somewhat less ; lay the lower in a well- 
greased baking-pan ; spread thickly over it whatever fresh 
fruit you prefer, sprinkle sugar over the fruit, cover with 
the thicker crust, and bake from twenty to twenty-five 
minutes; eat hot with butter and sugar. 

Strawberry Short Cake. — One quart of the finest white 
flour, sifted ; three tablespoonfuls of butter ; one large cup- 
ful of sour cream ; one egg well beaten ; one tablespoon- 
ful of white sugar; one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in 
hot water; one saltspoonful of salt. 

Proceed precisely as for Shaker's short cake, except that 
this short cake is to be baked round in jelly-cake tins, one 
round of paste piled upon another; while warm separate 
them ; put alternate rounds of short cake and fresh straw- 
berries, the latter sprinkled with sugar, until you have a 
pile higher than a "Sally Lunn ;" eat cold with cream. 



BREAD, BISCUIT, MUFFINS, ETC. 279 

Scotch Oatmeal Scones. — Put some Scotch oatmeal into 
a bowl, and poor over it a jugful of boiling water in which 
half an ounce of salt butter has been dissolved ; stir as 
quickly as possible into a dough, then turn out upon the 
moulding-board, and roll out as thinly as possible ; -then 
cut into rounds and dry on a griddle; afterwards toast 
both sides before the lire, butter, pile on a plate, and 
serve. 

Scotch Flour Scones. — Take one pint of milk and boil 
it with a piece of fresh butter ; wben it boils, pour it over 
a pound and a half of sifted flour, stirring it quickly round 
and round, and adding enough water to enable you to roll 
it out; knead, and roll it out to a thin paste; then cut 
with a tumbler into small, round scones, cook them on both 
sides on a griddle, and pile on a hot plate in a folded nap- 
kin. They should be served white and hot. 

Waffles, ~No. 1. — One quart of milk carefully thickened 
with a little sifted flour; one pound of butter melted in 
the milk ; ten eggs, beaten light ; a little salt ; enough 
yeast to make it rise — the quantity must be regulated by 
the quality of the yeast. 

Set it to rise in a warm place. To be eaten in the even- 
ing waffles should be mixed early in the morning in win- 
ter, and in summer at midday ; bake in waffle irons. 

Waffles, No. 2. — Three pints of fresh milk ; twelve eggs, 
whites and yolks beaten separately ; quarter of a pound of 
butter warmed in the milk ; one small teacupful of yeast. 

Add enough sifted flour to make the batter as thick as 
pancakes ; the white of the eggs must be put in last ; beat 
it up well ; let it rise a little while, and bake in waffle 
irons well greased with butter. 

Mother's Yeast Cakes. — Boil a double handful of hops 
in a quart of water till it is reduced to a pint ; strain it, 



280 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

take half, and stir in enough flour to make a stiff batter ; 
let the other half cool, dissolve in it one yeast cake, stir it 
in the batter, and beat it well ; set to rise in a warm place; 
in the morning stir in enough fine cornmeal to make the 
cakes ; roll it out, cut out the cakes, and dry them in the 
shade; keep them always in a dry place. 

Beawprh Waffles. — Half a pound of butter stirred to a 
cream ; the yolks of live eggs stirred in half a pound of 
flour ; half a pint of sweet milk gradually stirred in ; last- 
ly, the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth, and stirred 
in the batter. 

Minute Waffles. — One heaping pint of the finest white 
flour, sifted ; three pints of milk ; one tablespoonful of 
melted butter; one teaspoonful of cream of tartar sifted 
in the flour; half a teaspoonful of soda sifted in the flour; 
one teaspoonful of salt ; three eggs beaten light. 

Mix, and bake in well-buttered waffle irons. 

Mice and Cornmeal Waffles. — One cupful of cold boiled 
rice ; half a cupful of white flour, sifted, and the same of 
cornmeal; two eggs well beaten; milk to make a soft 
batter; one tablespoonful of melted butter; half a tea- 
spoonful of soda dissolved in hot water; one teaspoonful 
of salt. 

Beat all well and smoothly together, and bake in well- 
greased waffle irons. 

Mice Waffles, No. 1. — One and a half cupfuls of boiled 
rice; two cupfuls of sifted flour; a little salt; two eggs 
well beaten. 

Mix with milk to a batter rather thicker than pancake 
batter. 

Mice Waffles, No. 2. — Half a pint of rice, picked, washed, 
boiled very soft, then drained, and allowed to cool ; one and 



BREAD, BISCUIT, MUFFINS, ETC. 281 

a half pints of flour sifted over the pan of rice ; quarter of 
a pound of butter warmed at the fire ; one quart of fresh 
milk ; five eggs beaten light. 

When you have sifted the flour into the rice, stir in the 
warmed butter and the salt ; then stir the beaten eggs 
gradually into the milk ; then beat all together, and bake 
in well-greased waffle irons ; serve very hot. 

Indian-Meal Waffles. — Half a pint of cornmeal ; one 
pint of flour; one teacupful of cold boiled hominy; one 
egg; half a pint of sour milk ; one pint of sweet milk ; a 
pinch of soda. 

Mix together smoothly and bake quickly. The secret 
of good waffles is very thin batter, very tight irons, and a 
very hot fire. 

Indian Stoppers. — One quart of Indian meal, sifted; 
two quarts of milk ; four eggs well beaten ; salt to taste. 

Pour the milk boiling-hot over the Indian meal, and 
beat until quite smooth ; then add the beaten eggs and 
salt ; stir well together, and bake on a griddle. 

Maryland Corn Cake. — One pint of Indian meal, sifted ; 
a pinch of salt; enough rich milk to make a thin batter; 
one egg well beaten. 

Mix smoothly, and bake on a griddle in thin cakes the 
size of a tea-plate. Butter and send to table hot. 

Baltimore Indian Cake. — One cupful of flour, sifted ; 
three quarters of a cupful of Indian meal, also sifted; one 
and a half cupfuls of rich milk ; one teaspoonf ul of soda ; 
one and a half teaspoonf uls of cream of tartar ; one egg, 
well beaten up, with three tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar. 

Little Indian Cakes. — One quart of Indian meal, sifted ; 

two teaspoonf uls of salt ; one tablespoonful of best lard. 

Mix the lard and meal together ; pour boiling water on 



282 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

half the meal ; stir it, add the rest, and as much cold wa- 
ter as will enable you to make it out in cakes of conven- 
ient size; bake on a baking-iron. 

Cornmeal Muffins. — This quantity is for twelve muffins. 
One pint of cornmeal, sifted ; one teaspoonf ul of salt ; one 
teacupful of boiled rice, cold ; a light handful of fine flour, 
sifted ; one egg well beaten ; one pint of buttermilk, or 
sour milk ; one teaspoonf ul of soda ; one tablespoonfui of 
melted lard. 

Dissolve the soda in the milk, and add the meal, egg, 
rice, and other ingredients. If the batter is too thick, add 
enough warm water to make the batter of the proper con- 
sistency. The lard should be added last. Bake quickly 
in hot, well-greased muffin-rings. 

Com Muffins. — Three pints of milk ; as much cornmeal 
stirred in as will make a thick batter; two handfuls of 
wheat flour, sifted; two teaspoonfuls of salt; three eggs; 
one teacupful of yeast. 

Warm the milk ; stir in as much cornmeal as will make 
a thick batter ; add the other ingredients : beat all well 
together; let it rise for six hours, then bake like other 
muffins. 

Indian Muffins. — One quart of Indian meal, sifted ; 
a quarter of a pound of butter ; one pint of milk ; half a 
teacupful of yeast ; three eggs well beaten ; one pinch of 
salt. 

Warm the butter in the milk, and stir it into the meal, 
with enough warm water to make a batter ; then add the 
eggs, yeast, and salt; stir well, and set it to rise; bake in 
large rings. 

Corn Rusks. — One pint of Indian meal; one quart of 
boiling milk; half a teacupful of melted butter; pinch of 
salt ; three eggs. 



BREAD, BISCUIT, MUFFINS, ETC. 283 

Scald the meal«in the milk; add the butter, eggs, and 
enough flour to enable you to roll it out, and enough yeast 
to make the dough rise; set it to rise; roll it into little 
loaves, and bake brown. 

Mary Anne's Indian Cake. — One pint of sour milk ; 
one cupful of Indian meal; two cupfuls of sifted flour; 
one egg ; one teaspoonful of salt ; one teaspoonful of soda; 
one tablespoonful of sugar. 

Mix all thoroughly, and bake half an hour. 

Dinars Corn Cake. — One pint of milk ; two cnpfuls 
of Indian meal ; two eggs ; three tablespoonf uls of sugar ; 
one teaspoonful of cream of tartar; one half teaspoonful 
of salt ; one half teaspoonful of soda. 

Bake in two pans in a quick oven for half an hour. 

Aunt Ginmfs Mush Calces. — One pint of mush ; one 
tablespoonful of lard; one gill of flour; one egg. 

Beat well together, and drop from spoon on a hot griddle. 

Granny's Corn Bread. — Two teacupfuls of boiled 
hominy; while hot, mix in one large spoonful of butter 
or lard ; beat four eggs very light, and stir into the 
hominy; stir in gradually one pint of milk, a half a pint 
of sifted cornmeal, a teaspoonful of salt ; the batter should 
be as thick as a rich boiled custard ; add milk if thicker. 
Bake with a good deal of heat at the bottom of the oven, 
and not too much on top, so as to insure rising. 

South Carolina Rice Johnny Cake, No. 1. — Equal propor- 
tions of fine hominy, rice, and rice flour. The two former 
must be boiled and cold before the rice flour is added. Mix 
all with milk ; then spread on a board, and bake it before 
the fire. Split open and butter for the table. 

Rice Johnny Cake, No. 2. — Half a pint of soft-boiled 



284 THE UNEIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

rice, with just enough flour to make the batter stick on a 
board; salt it, and spread it on a board; baste with cream 
or butter ; cream is best ; set it before a hot fire, and let 
it bake until nicely browned ; then slip a thread under to 
disengage it from the board ; turn, and bake the other 
side, basting continually. 

•Rice Pone. — One pint of nicely boiled rice ; one pint 
of fresh milk ; two ounces of fresh butter ; a small tea- 
cupful of corn meal ; a teaspoonful of salt ; three eggs 
well beaten ; add the milk and rice to the beaten eggs ; 
then the butter, cornmeal, and salt. Pour all in a well- 
buttered baking-dish, and bake iij a hot oven from half to 
three quarters of an hour. 

Hot Cross Buns. — Three cupfuls of sweet milk ; one 
cupful of yeast ; flour to make a thick batter. Set this as a 
sponge overnight. In the morning add one cup of sugar ; 
half a cupful of butter, melted ; half a nutmeg, grated ; one 
saltspoonf ul of salt ; flour enough to roll out like biscuit ; 
knead well, and set to rise for five hours ; roll half an inch 
thick into round cakes; lay in rows in a buttered baking- 
pan ; in half an hour make a deep cross on each with a 
knife, and instantly put into the oven ; bake a light brown ; 
brush over with beaten white of egg, then dust with gran- 
ulated sugar. 

Sally Lunn. — One quart of finest white flour, sifted; 
four eggs ; half a cupful of melted butter ; one cupful of 
warm milk ; one cupful of warm water ; four tablespoon- 
fuls of yeast ; one teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in hot 
water ; one teaspoonful of salt. 

Beat the eggs to a stiff froth, adding the milk, water, 
butter, soda, and salt; stir in the flour to a smooth batter, 
and beat the yeast in well ; set to rise in a deep buttered 
dish; it should rise six hours; then bake steadily three 
quarters of an hour. Eat hot. 



BREAD, BISCUIT, MUFFINS, ETC. 285 

Briache. — One pound of fine white flour, sifted ; three 
ounces of butter ; one teacupful of milk, warm ; half a 
teacupful of home-made yeast ; three eggs, beaten light ; 
a saltspoonful of salt. 

Mix all well together ; make into a dongh as soft as you 
can possibly knead it, and place the loaf in a well-buttered 
pan to rise ; keep the pan closely covered, and let the 
dough rise four hours ; then bake in a hot oven for thirty 
minutes. Briache is much better baked in small round 
cake-tins. 

Popovers. — Two cupfuls of sifted flour ; two cupfuls of 
milk; two eggs; a piece of butter the size of a walnut; 
a little salt. 

Mix all well together ; put into buttered cups ; fill half 
full, and bake in a quick oven. 

Moonshine. — One quart of flour, sifted ; two tablespoon- 
fuls of butter ; one tablespoonf ul of lard ; half a tea- 
spoonful of salt ; enough cold water to enable you to mix 
all into a dough. 

When it becomes the consistency of bread dongh, beat 
it with a rolling-pin twenty minutes, holding the dongh 
in the left hand while beating with the pin ; roll it very 
thin, and cut with a fag-iron into long, thin strips ; lay in 
a buttered baking-pan, and bake in a quick oven. 

Virginia Quinimies. — One quart of sifted flour; two 
ounces of butter ; one cupful of milk ; one teaspoonf ul of salt. 

Knead and pound well ; roll out very thin — as thin as 
paper — cut into rounds, and bake them a pale brown in a 
quick oven. 

Quinimies,l$o. 2 (Mme. Eugene). — Half a pint of 
cream ; whites of two eggs ; one tablespoonful of yeast. 

Beat all together, adding flour enough to make a thin 
batter; bake in small square tins, well buttered. 



286 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Xantijppe Johnny Cake. — One quart of milk ; two eggs, 
well beaten ; one piece each of lard and butter the size of 
an egg; one quart of milk; one tablespoonful of brown 
sugar; one teaspoonful of soda ; two tablespoonfuls of flour ; 
Indian meal enough to make a thick batter. 

Melt the butter, and beat altogether for ten minutes ; 
put in a buttered pan, and bake in a hot oven three quar- 
ters of an hour; test with a broom splint as for cake. 

Maryland Pone. — Three eggs ; one pint of milk ; piece 
of butter the size of a walnut ; saltspoonf ul of soda ; Indian 
meal enough to make it as thick as porridge. 

Put about an inch deep in the tin, and bake in a quick 
oven. 



GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

Always bake griddle-cakes upon a soapstone griddle. 
Never allow the smallest drop of grease to fall upon a 
soapstone griddle, as it will spoil it for future use. If, 
however, you happen to be where soapstone griddles are 
not to be had, wash your iron griddle well with soap and 
water, dry thoroughly with a clean cloth, and then rub 
well with dry salt. Wipe off, heat the griddle, and grease 
with a piece of fat salt pork on a fork. Put on as little 
fat as possible. Test the griddle at first with a single 
cake. Turn the cakes always with a tin spatula, not with 
a knife. In preparing the batter for any griddle-cakes, 
beat it hard and long. This will make the cakes not only 
smooth, but light. 

Buckwheat Cakes, No. 1. — Three quarts of water as warm 
as the hand can bear it (i. <?., in winter) ; enough buck- 
wheat meal to thicken the batter. 

Beat it well until it is as smooth as velvet; add salt, 
and a teacnpf ul of good fresh yeast ; then beat again ; 
cover the crock with a towel, and let it stand in a warm 
place — if the weather be cold, not far from the fire ; in 
eight or ten hours it will be ready for use ; the batter, 
when risen, should be so light and spongy that the cakes 
will rise quite thick; bake a fine brown on ooih sides ; 
serve instantly on a hot plate. Remember that thin buck- 
wheat cakes are not so good. The above quantity is 
enough for ten persons. 



288 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Buckwheat Cakes, No. 2. — One quart of buckwheat 
meal; two tablespoonfuls of wheat flour; one teacupful 
of good yeast; one pint of good milk; half a pint of 
warm water; one teaspoonful of salt; one tablespoonful 
of molasses. 

Put the yeast in first, and mix it with the flour ; then 
add the milk, water, salt, and molasses ; beat long and 
well ; set to rise in the evening, and bake for breakfast. 

Buckwheat Cakes, No. 3. — One quart of warm water; 
one pound and five ounces of buckwheat meal; one large 
tablespoonful of salt ; two large tablespoonfuls of brewer's 
yeast; one large tablespoonful of molasses. 

Beat well, and set to rise in a warm place for two and a 
half hours ; then bake as above. 

New England Breakfast Pancakes. — One pint of sour 
milk ; soda enough to sweeten it ; a little salt ; one table- 
spoonful of molasses ; flour enough to make a stiff batter. 

Mix, and bake as usual. 

Indian-Meal Batter Cakes. — One quart of bolted Indian 
meal ; one teacupful of flour ; one quart of milk ; one tea- 
spoonful of salt; four teaspoonfuls of yeast; three eggs. 

Put the yeast and salt into the milk when quite warm, 
add the eggs, and then stir in the flour and meal ; let it 
rise all night, and, if it sours, add one teaspoonful of soda ; 
bake on a griddle. 

Corn Griddle- Cakes. — One quart of rich milk; three 
eggs ; a teaspoonful of salt ; a spoonful of wheat flour ; 
enough cornmeal to make a thin batter (the thinner the 
better). 

Bake on the griddle in small cakes, butter them, and 
send them hot to table. 

Indian-Meal Flannel Cakes. — One pint of fine Indian 



GRIDDLE-CAKES. 289 

meal; one pint of wheat flour; one teaspoonful of salt; 
two gills of yeast. 

Mix the wheat flour and Indian meal together with as 
much tepid water as will make a thin batter; add the 
yeast and salt, and let rise all night. 

Virginia Batter Griddle- Cakes. — One cupful of wheat 
flour, sifted ; one cupful of white Indian meal ; one table- 
spoonful of butter, melted, and added in the morning; 
one teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in hot water, and add- 
ed in the morning ; one quart of milk ; four tablespoon- 
fuls of yeast ; one teaspoonful of salt. 

Mix overnight, adding in the morning the butter and 
soda ; bake on a very hot griddle. 

Grandpa? s Favorites (" Common-Sense in the House- 
hold "). — One quart of milk ; two cupf uls of stale bread 
crumbs : one good handful of flour ; one tablespoonful of 
melted butter; three eggs well beaten ; one teaspoonful of 
salt. 

Work the bread and milk smooth ; add the butter and 
eggs, then the salt, and just enough flour to bind all ; if 
too thick, add milk ; beat hard and long, and bake at once 
on a hot griddle. 

Rice Flour or Velvet Cakes. — One pint of milk; one 
pint of cream ; three eggs, the whites and yolks beaten 
separately, and very stiff ; one teaspoonful of salt ; rice flour. 

Mix the beaten yolks with the milk ; add the salt, then 
the rice flour, and then the whites ; beat smooth, and bake 
instantly. 

Cream Cakes. — One pint of cream; one pint of milk, 
slightly sour ; four eggs, the whites and yolks beaten sep- 
arately ; one teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in hot water ; 
one teaspoonful of salt ; flour to make a good batter, well 
stirred in. 

Beat smooth, and bake at once. 

13 



290 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Flannel Calces, Eo. 1. — To one pint of flour add two 
eggs well beaten ; four tablespoonfuls of mashed small 
hominy well boiled and only lukewarm ; a little yeast, 
and milk enough for a stiff batter. 

Make them up at bedtime, and if you find them a little 
sour, put in some saleratus. 

Flannel Cakes, No. 2. — One quart of milk ; two eggs, 
the yolks and whites beaten separately; flour to make a 
consistent batter; one spoonful of melted butter; one 
teaspoonf ul of soda ; one teaspoonf ul of cream of tartar. 

Mix the flour and milk; then a little salt and the beat- 
en yolks ; then the melted butter, and soda and cream of 
tartar, dissolved in milk; beat thoroughly, add the beaten 
whites of the eggs, and bake immediately. 

Vanity Griddle- Cakes. — One quart of flour, sifted ; one 
teaspoonf ul of soda ; a little salt. 

Mix with sour cream to a thin batter, and beat hard for 
eight minutes ; pour on a hot griddle in thin cakes, and 
fry them quickly. 

Graham Cakes. — Two cupf tils of brown flour ; one cup- 
ful of white flour; three cupfuls of buttermilk; three 
eggs beaten very light ; one full teaspoonful of soda dis- 
solved in hot water ; one teaspoonful of salt ; one heaping 
tablespoonfnl of lard. 

Mix and beat well, and bake immediately. 

Rye and Indian Griddle- Cakes. — Half a pint of Indian 
meal, scalded soft with milk ; half a pint of rye meal, 
stirred into the above when cold ; half a tablespoonfnl of 
molasses. 

Beat as usual ; the batter should be a little thicker than 
for buckwheats ; bake as soon as mixed. 

Hominy Pancakes. — One pint of boiled hominy ; one 



GRIDDLE-CAKES. 291 

tablespoonful of butter ; three eggs beaten light ; one pint 
of sour milk ; one teaspoonful of soda. 

Put the butter and eggs into the hominy while warm, 
then add the milk and soda ; beat smooth ; if not thick 
enough, add corn-starch to bind it; bake in a well-greased 
pan. 

Cream Pancakes. — One pint of rich cream; eight eggs, 
whites and yolks beaten separately; one whole nutmeg, 
grated fine ; a pincli of salt ; half a pound of butter, melt- 
ed ; flour enough to make an ordinary batter. 

Fry in butter; before serving, strew sugar over them, 
and garnish the dish with preserve. 

Mary Annds Pancakes. — One quart of new milk • 
eight eggs ; one pound of the finest white flour, sifted. 

Stir the milk into the eggs, which should previously be 
beaten very light ; sift into this the flour very gradually ; 
beat smooth, adding a tiny pinch of salt; fry brown on 
both sides, in butter ; serve hot, with powdered cinnamon, 
sugar, and nutmeg. 

Swedish Pancakes. — One pint of the finest white flour, 
sifted ; six eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately to the 
utmost ; one saltspoonful of salt ; one saltspoonful of 
soda dissolved in vinegar; milk to make a thin batter. 

Beat the yolks light, add the salt, soda, two cupfuls of 
milk, then the flour, and beaten whites alternately; thin 
with more milk if necessary. 

Swedish Pancakes, with Jam. — Proceed as above, but 
spread each pancake, when fried, very thickly with rasp- 
berry jam, and roll up nicely ; serve with cream sauce, 
or Old Humphrey's aigre-doux sauce. 

Of course, you may use any preserve you like, but in Swe- 
den raspberry jam and pancakes are always used together. 



DESSERT PANCAKES, DUMPLINGS, 
AND FRITTERS. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS FOR FRYING FRITTERS AND PANCAKES. 

Fry fritters in deep, round-bottomed saucepans of boil- 
ing butter or lard, testing the'heat by dropping a spoonful 
in to try. It ought to rise instantly to the surface puffed 
up, and should be of a rich, golden brown. Fry carefully, 
remove with a perforated skimmer, drain on soft paper or 
old, soft linen, pile on a hot plate, dust with powdered 
sugar, and serve. Use rather a small, and not too old a 
frying-pan for frying pancakes; heat it, put in a tea- 
spoonful or two of lard, and run it over the bottom very 
quickly; then pour in enough batter to cover the bottom 
of the saucepan with a thin sheet ; turn carefully with a 
tin spatula, lay in a hot dish, dust with powdered sugar, 
roll up quickly, and serve. 



White Dumplings. — Beef suet, freed from strings, and 
powdered iine; double the quantity of the finest white 
flour, sifted. 

Make into dumplings, tie up in floured bags, and boil 
six hours; put them aside until you are ready to use 
them ; then put them on a tin plate, and bake them brown 
in the oven ; eat them hot with buckwheat cakes. 

Apple Dumplings. — Two pounds of the finest white 
flour, sifted ; three quarters of a pound of fresh butter; a 
pinch of salt ; fine, large pippins, pared and cored. 



DESSERT PANCAKES, DUMPLINGS, AND FRITTERS. 293 

Make the dough in a sheet thicker than for pies ; fill 
the hollowed core of each apple with loaf sugar ; en- 
velop each apple in dough, pinching the dough together 
to close the seams, and rolling with floured hands into a 
ball; tie up each one in a little dumpling cloth ; boil one 
hour, turn out, and eat hot with hard sauce. 

Molasses Dumplings. — One pound of the finest w T hite 
flour, sifted; six ounces of good butter; three or four 
spoonfuls of baking-powder; a pinch of salt. 

Make up the dough with a little water, roll into thick 
cakes, and boil twenty minutes in equal quantities of mo- 
lasses and w T ater. 

Baked Apple Dumplings. — Make the paste in the usual 
manner; pare and core the apples; fill the hollowed core 
of each one with sugar, cinnamon, and lemon peel; wrap 
each one carefully in paste of the usual thickness ; put 
them to bake in a dish or pan, with a little sugar and wa- 
ter at the bottom ; bake in a moderate oven, and baste 
them occasionally ; serve with wine sauce. 

Potato-Crust Dumplings. — Two quarts of sifted white 
flour ; fourteen white potatoes. 

Boil, peel, and mash the potatoes fine; sift the flour 
into the potatoes gradually, mixing them well together 
with the hand ; add enough water to make a stiff dough, 
and a pinch of salt; roll out on the paste-board into as 
thick a sheet as you wish, and use for apple, peach, plum, 
or any other kind of fruit dumpling. All dumplings 
should be tied securely in well-floured dumpling cloths. 

Apple Fritters. — One quart of milk; six eggs, yolks 
only, well beaten ; three quarters of a pound of sifted 
flour ; a pinch of salt ; six tablespoonfuls of chopped ap- 
ples. 

Beat the yolks well, stir them into the milk, and add, 



294 THE UNEIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

by degrees, the flour and salt ; beat the batter hard and 
long, have it prepared some time before they are cooked, 
and from time to time beat it a little ; just before frying 
beat in the chopped apple ; fry in a deep saucepan of boil- 
ing lard, dropping it in by spoonfuls; serve hot with any 
sauce you prefer. 

Orange Fritters. — One pound of flour, light weight; 
yolks and whites of three eggs beaten separately ; a pinch 
of salt ; grated rind of two oranges. 

Stir the flour into water until it makes a thick batter ; 
add the salt,* beat it well, then beat in the beaten yolks of 
the eggs, lastly the stiffly beaten whites ; proceed as for 
apple fritters, beating in the orange peel (Rightly grated^ 
last of all ; fry as above and serve hot, with hard sauce 
flavored with orange juice. 

Passover Fritters. — Passover biscuit, soaked all night in 
cold water and beaten to a pulp ; four to six eggs, accord- 
ing to the quantity of biscuit ; half a teaspoonful of pow- 
dered cinnamon ; two tablespoon!' uls of Sultana raisins 
seeded and chopped ; sugar to taste. 

Sweeten the mashed biscuit to taste, whip in the already 
well-beaten eggs, add the cinnamon and raisins, beat the 
batter light, and fry as above. 

DinahJs Fritters. — A loaf of stale bread rolled into 
crumbs and browned ; four eggs very well beaten ; four 
tablespoonfuls of Madeira. 

Beat all well together into a light batter, adding a little 
milk if necessary ; fry as above, and eat with any sauce 
you prefer. 

Rice Fritters. — Two teacupf uls of rice well boiled ; 
three eggs beaten very light ; some sifted flour, enough to 
bind all together ; a pinch of salt. 

Beat all well together, and fry as usual. 



DESSERT PANCAKES, DUMPLINGS, AND FRITTERS. 295 

Golden Ball Fritters. — One pint of water ; a piece of 
butter the size of an egg; one pint of flour ; six eggs beat- 
en very light. 

Put the butter into the water, let it boil a few moments, 
then thicken it smoothly with flour ; let it remain a short 
time on the tire, stirring steadily all the time, then pour 
into a bowl, and mix with it six eggs beaten very light; 
beat the batter hard and long; fry in a deep saucepan, 
stirring the butter or lard hard until it whirls ; then drop 
in the fritters by spoonfuls, and fry as round as balls. 

Thanksgiving Fritters. — One quart of rich milk; six 
eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately and very light ; 
three eupfuls of flour sifted ; half a teaspoonful of soda 
dissolved in hot water; one teaspoonful of cream of tar- 
tar sifted into the flour ; a little salt. 

Beat the milk into the already beaten yolks, then add in 
order the soda, the flour, and salt, finally the whites ; beat 
very hard, and when just ready to fry beat in some apple 
prepared as follows: Six large juicy apples pared, cut into 
thin quarters or eighths, and stewed in a covered saucepan 
with one wineglassful of brandy, one tablespoonful of 
white sugar, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, two wineglass- 
fuls of water; when half stewed drain off the liquor, and 
when cold beat into the batter ; fry as round as balls, dust 
with powdered sugar, and serve. 

Cake Fritters. — Stale cake cut into rounds or squares, 
and lightly fried in lard to a nice brown. 

Dip each slice, when fried, in boiling milk, drain quick- 
ly, spread with preserve, and pile on a hot dish ; serve 
with cream sauce. 

Pink Fritters. — One cupful of cake crumbs, light and 
dry ; one cupful of boiling milk ; four eggs, whites and 
yolks beaten separately ; two tablespoonfuls of powdered 
sugar ; one teaspoonful of corn-starch moistened with cold 
milk ; three tablespoonfuls of currant jelly. 



296 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Soak the crumbs in the boiling milk, and stir in the 
corn-starch ; heat all together to a boil, stirring steadily ; 
beat the yolks light, and when the custard cools whip in 
the beaten yolks, the sugar, jelly, and beaten whites ; fry 
as round as balls. 

Boulettes. — Three eggs ; three tablespoonf uls of sour 
cream ; one spoonful of butter ; one pinch of salt. 

Cream the butter ; add the eggs and sour cream ; enough 
flour to make a paste ; add the salt ; take a spoonful of 
the paste and throw it into boiling water ; cook until the 
bouletie rises to the surface ; eat it with melted butter, or 
any berries. 

Paste for fritters. — Put some flour in a dish; make a 
hole in the centre and break in one or two yolks of eggs ; 
a spoonful of olive-oil, and one tablespoonful of brandy ; 
a pinch of salt ; stir it always in the same direction, add- 
ing by degrees a little water, to make it the proper con- 
sistency ; just before you need it, stir in the white of the 
egg, beaten very stiff. It is best to prepare it the evening 
before ; it becomes lighter. If it is for sweet fritters, put 
very little salt, and add a little orange-flower water. 

Spanish Pain Perdu, or Tortillas. — Take slices of stale 
white bread half an inch thick, steep in water, take them 
out and dry them, then put into a saucepan, cover and 
heat them ; when they have swelled very much, fry in 
butter or the finest olive-oil ; serve with chocolate. 

German or Queerfs Toast. — Slices of light, white, stale 
bread, cut in rounds, fried, dipped in boiling milk to re- 
move the grease, drained, dusted with powdered sugar, 
and piled on a hot plate ; pour sweet wine sauce over 
them, and serve hot. Stale loaf cake is very nice treated 
in this way. 



CAKE. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

Cake will not rise if the oven is too slow ; but, on the 
other hand, if the oven be too hot, the cake burns on the 
outside. A large fruit-cake needs a very slow, steady fire. 
Small cakes baked in tins or pans do not need so hot a 
fire as large cakes. Where a great deal of molasses or su- 
gar is used, a more moderate fire than for pound or sponge 
cake is necessary. A good way to test the oven is to drop 
a little flour on the bottom of it. If it browns, the oven 
will be hot enough. 

Large cakes should be baked in earthen pans; metal 
pans heat too quickly, and are apt to burn the cake. It 
is well always to have a paper at the bottom of the pan. 
While baking, if it is doing too fast on the top, spread a 
paper over it. 

Raisins must always be stoned, and currants well washed 
and picked. Currants require many waters, and, in rins- 
ing, a stream should run upon them through a colander. 
When washed, place a towel on a waiter, and spread the 
currants on it, rubbing them to and fro ; remove them to 
another towel and rub again ; then put them in a dish, 
and pick them over carefully. 

In using baking-powders, mix them with the flour. 
These powders should be made use of with discretion, as 
they are apt to impart an alkaline flavor. 

Flour should be dry, and sifted through a hair sieve. 

The yolks and whites of eggs should be beaten sepa- 
rately, and the whites to the stiffest froth. Stale and fresh 
eggs should never be used in the same cake. 

13* 



298 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Good butter should always be used for cake. 

It is best not to move cake after it is once in the oven. 

Also, be careful not to let in a stream of cold air when 
you open the oven door. 

In testing a cake to see if it is baked enough, run a 
broom splint or skewer through it. If it is not done 
enough, some of the dough will adhere to it ; if done, it 
will come out clean. 

Cakes that are fried must be plunged into deep vessels 
of boiling lard. Try the lard first with a small piece of 
dough. Drop the cakes in ; as they brown on the under 
side, turn them over with a skimmer. Let them be laid 
on paper in the bottom of a dish, when taken from the hot 
lard, that the grease may be absorbed. 



Dream Cake. — Three quarters of a cupful of butter; 
two cupfuls of sugar, sifted; half a cupful of milk; two 
and a half cupfuls of pastry flour; half a teaspoonful of 
soda ; one and a half teaspoon fuls of cream of tartar ; the 
whites of eight eggs beaten stiff; one teaspoonful of al- 
mond extract. 

Mix the soda and cream of tartar with the flour ; rub 
the butter to a cream ; add the sugar and beat again ; add 
the milk and flour alternately, a little at a time, and beat 
well ; lastly, add the beaten whites and the almond ; bake 
in three shallow pans. 

Make a frosting as follows : The whites of three eggs ; 
three cupfuls of confectioner's sugar, sifted. 

Put the eggs in a large bowl, sprinkle with three tea- 
spoonfuls of sugar, beat with a perforated spoon, and add 
three teaspoonf uls of sugar every five minutes ; then di- 
vide into three parts ; leave one white, and flavor it with 
almond or vanilla; color another pink, and flavor it with 
rose; color another yellow, and flavor it with orange or 
lemon ; then put a layer of icing at least an inch thick on 
each cake ; put them together, ice all over again lightly 
with white icing, and sprinkle with grated cocoanut. 



CAKE. 299 

To color the pink icing use cochineal, adding it slowly 
till of the desired shade. To color orange, grate the thin 
rind of an orange, and soak it half an hour in three or 
four teaspoonf uls of orange juice ; strain and use. 

Almond Loaf Cake. — One pound of powdered sugar ; 
one pound of flour; one quarter of a pound of butter; 
eight eggs; one coffeecupful of almonds, blanched, pound- 
ed to a paste with rosewater and half a teaspoon ful of es- 
sence of bitter almonds. 

Beat the whites and yolks separately ; stir the butter and 
sugar to a cream; add to this the yolks; beat light and 
smooth before putting in the flour; stir in the almond- 
paste alternately with the whites; put in half a coffee- 
spoonful of brandy, last of all; bake in a round pan; ice 
thickly with California boiled icing, flavored strongly with 
rosewater and colored pink with cochineal. If properly 
made, baked, and iced, this is a delicious cake. 

Pistachio-nut Cake. — Make and bake a White Moun- 
tain jelly cake ; then, for the filling, use pistachio nuts, 
prepared and ground fine as for pistachio cream, and 
beaten up with white of egg and sugar, as usual ; color the 
filling a delicate green with essence of spinach ; when the 
cake is properly arranged and filled, ice it completely with 
icing colored green in the same way. This is an excellent 
cake. 

Caramel Cake. — Three cupfnls of sugar, sifted; one 
cupful and a half of butter; one cupful of milk; four and 
a half cupf uls of flour ; five eggs, well beaten ; a small tea- 
spoonful of soda; two small teaspoonf uls of cream of tar- 
tar; mix and bake as jelly cake. For the filling, take 
three cupf uls of burned sugar; half a cupful of milk; one 
teaspoonf ul of butter ; one tablespoonful of browned flour; 
two tablespoon f uls of cold water. 

Boil this mixture live minutes, then add three table- 



300 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

spoonfuls of sweet almonds, roasted and ground to pow- 
der; boil until it is of the consistency of rich custard; add 
a pinch of soda, stir well, and remove from the fire; when 
cold, spread between the layers of cake; ice with almond 
icing. 

Lemon Cake. — One heaping cupful of butter; two scant 
cupfuls of sugar ; ten eggs, the whites and yolks beaten 
separately; one small cupful of milk; the juice and rind 
(grated) of a large lemon ; one small teaspoonful of soda; 
Hour to make a tolerably thin batter. 

Bake in a quick oven, and ice with lemon icing. 

Almond Cake. — One pound of almonds, blanched, beat- 
en to a fine paste in a mortar, and moistened with orange- 
flower water ; yolks of twelve eggs well beaten ; whites 
of six eggs well beaten ; two bitter almonds pounded to a 
fine paste ; rind of two large lemons, grated fine ; double- 
refined sugar to taste, beaten into the eggs. 

Bake in a tin pan well floured. 

Hickory-nut Cake. — Two cupfuls of white sugar, sifted ; 
half a teacupful of butter; one teacupful of sweet milk; 
three eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately and well ; 
three cupfuls of sifted flour; one cupful of hickory-nut 
kernels, blanched ; two teaspoonfnls of cream of tartar 
mixed with the flour; one teaspoonful of soda dissolved 
in the milk. 

Bake in small heart-shaped tins. 

Thanksgiving Cake. — Eight pounds of the finest white 
flour, sifted ; four pounds of sugar, sifted ; three pounds of 
butter; two pounds of Sultana raisins, seeded and dredged; 
two pounds of currants, well washed, picked, and dredged ; 
nutmeg, mace, and cinnamon to taste, all powdered. 

Raise this cake with yeast ; of this it will require rather 
more than for the same quantity of bread ; mix in half 



CAKE. 301 

the sugar and shortening when you put in the yeast ; when 
well raised, add the remainder with the spice ; work it well, 
and set it to rise again ; when it has risen a second time 
add the fruit and a teaspoonf id of dissolved soda ; put it 
in the pans, and let it stand only a few moments before 
baking, 

Boston Cup Cake. — Three teacupfuls of sifted sugar and 
one and a half teacupfuls of butter, beaten together to a 
smooth, white cream ; three eggs well beaten, whites and 
yolks separately, and added to the above ; three teacupfuls 
of sifted flour, put in next ; flavoring to taste. 

Dissolve a teacupf ul of saleratus in a teacupf ul of milk, and 
strain it into the cake; then add three more teacupf ulsof sift- 
ed flour ; bake the cake immediately, either in cups or pans. 

Buckeye Cake.- — Three teacupfuls of white sugar, sifted ; 
one teacupful of butter ; four teacupfuls of flour ; six eggs 
well beaten ; two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, sifted in 
the flour; one teaspoonf ul of soda. 

Beat very light, and bake in tin pans. 

Coffee Cake. — One cupful of seeded and chopped rai- 
sins; one cupful of sugar; half a cupful of butter; half a 
cupful of cold coffee (strong) ; half a cupful of molasses ; 
two and a half cupfuls of sifted flour ; two eggs well beat- 
en ; one teaspoonf ul of powdered cloves ; half a teaspoon- 
ful of cinnamon. 

Maine Cream Cake. — Prepare several layers of jelly 
cake, as for " White Mountain Cake," but, instead of spread- 
ing with jelly, use the following : Half a pint of rich, sweet 
milk, one egg well beaten, two small teaspoonfuls of corn- 
starch wet with cold milk, and half a cupful of sifted sugar. 
Heat the milk to boiling, and stir in the corn-starch ; take 
out a little and mix gradually with the beaten egg and 
sugar ; return to the rest of the custard and boil, stirring 



302 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

constantly until quite thick ; flavor to taste ; when cold, 
spread between the layers of cake ; then ice thickly, fla- 
voring the icing as you do the cream filling. 

Bachelor's Cake. — One pound of flour, sifted ; six ounces 
of butter ; six ounces of sugar ; half a pound of Sultana 
raisins, seeded and. chopped; half a pound of currants, 
picked, washed, and dredged ; two eggs, yolks and whites 
beaten separately to the utmost ; one large breakfast cup- 
ful of sweet milk ; one teaspoonful of cinnamon ; one tea- 
spoonful of soda. 

Sift the soda into the dry flour ; cream the butter and 
sugar ; add the beaten eggs, then the milk, then the spice, 
lastly the flour and fruit ; bake in round tins. 

Lightning Express Cake. — One cupful of flour, sifted ; 
one cupful of powdered sugar ; four eggs well beaten ; 
half a teaspoonful of soda; one teaspoonful of cream of 
tartar ; flavoring to taste. 

Butter the pan well, and, if the oven is in good trim, 
this cake will bake in fifteen minutes. 

Dinah's Cup Cake. — One cupful of butter ; two cupfuls 
of sugar, sifted ; three scant cupfuls of flour, sifted ; four 
eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately to the very ut- 
most ; one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in two thirds of 
a cupful of sweet milk, or half a cupful of sour cream; 
two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, mixed with the flour. 

The cream of tartar is not to be used if the sour cream 
is used. 

Dinah's Cream Cake. — One pound of sugar, sifted ; half 
a pound of butter ; one pound of flour, sifted ; five eggs, 
yolks and whites beaten separately to the utmost; seven 
tablespoonfuls of thick, sweet cream ; five drops of essence 
of bitter almond ; half a teaspoonful of saleratus added the 
last thing. 






CAKE. 303 

Bake in jelly-cake tins, and put between the layers the 
following filling : One cupful of sugar (loaf), one cupful 
of cold water, grated rind of one lemon and the juice, and 
two tablespoonfuls of corn-starch dissolved in cold water. 
Put the sugar and water on the fire, and when the sugar is 
dissolved add the lemon juice and grated rind ; allow it 
to come to a boil, and add the corn-starch, stirring it in a 
little at a time; allow it to boil up once, take it from the 
fire, and set away to cool. It is a delicious filling for Di- 
nah's cream cake. 

Small, Rich Plum Cake. — Three quarters of a pound 
of butter ; three quarters of a pound of sifted sugar ; three 
quarters of a pound of sifted flour; ten eggs, whites and 
yolks beaten separately; half a nutmeg, grated; one tea- 
spoonful of pounded mace ; three quarters of a pound of 
Sultana raisins, seeded and chopped ; three quarters of a 
pound of currants, picked, washed, and dredged ; half a 
pound of mixed candied peels, snipped fine ; one wine- 
glassful of brandy. 

Mix as usual, adding the fruit and brandy last; bake 
two hours. 

Cocoanut Cake. — One cupful of sifted sugar ; half a cup- 
ful of sweet milk ; one egg ; two teaspoonf uls of butter ; 
one heaped teaspoonful of cream of tartar; one teaspoon- 
f ul of soda ; enough sifted flour to make a batter as thick 
as for griddle cakes. 

Bake it in four cakes on jelly-cake tins. For filling 
take one cupful of grated cocoanut, one cupful of sifted 
sugar, half a cupful of sweet milk ; two eggs well beaten. 
Mix all together, cook for five minutes, and put between 
the layers of cake ; ice with the quick icing, into which 
you have beaten a very little grated cocoanut ; flavor the 
icing with lemon juice. 

Loaf Cocoanut Cake. — One pound of sugar ; half a pound 



304 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

of butter ; six eggs well beaten ; half a pound of flour ; 
one pound of grated cocoanut, stirred lightly in the last 
thing. 

Mix smoothly, beat hard, and bake immediately. 

White Cocoanut Cake. — One cupful of butter; two cup- 
fuls of powdered sugar ; three cupfuls of flour ; four eggs, 
whites only, whipped to the utmost ; one cupful of milk ; 
one teaspoonful of cream of tartar and half a teaspoonful 
of soda sifted into the flour ; half of a small cocoanut grat- 
ed fine, stirred in last of all ; a pinch of soda. 

Beat all well together, and bake in tins. 

Chocolate Cake. — Two cupfuls of sugar, sifted; four cup- 
fuls of flour, sifted; two tablespoonfuls of butter; four 
eggs well beaten ; one cupful of rich milk ; two teaspoon- 
fuls of cream of tartar; one teaspoonful of soda; flavor 
with vanilla. 

Bake in jelly-cake tins. This quantity will make two 
cakes in three layers. For filling take half a cupful of 
grated chocolate, the yolk of one egg, powdered sugar to 
taste, and milk enough to make it moist. Mix all together, 
flavor with vanilla, and beat it slowly until quite smooth ; 
ice with chocolate icing. 

Christmas Cake. — This cake is very dark and delicious. 
Dry some fine white flour, then brown it slowly, stirring 
all the time in a shallow pan on top of the stove ; let it 
cool, then sift it for use. It should be of an even tint — 
fawn-colored. Take of this flour one and a half pounds, 
and mix with it one tablespoonful of finely pulverized 
charcoal, and sift it twice; take, also, six pounds of stoned 
raisins, five pounds of washed, picked, and dried currants, 
six bitter almonds pounded in a mortar, two pounds of 
blanched and chopped sweet almonds, one and a half 
pounds of brown sugar, sifted, one and a half pounds of 
butter, two pounds of citron, eight ounces each of can- 



CAKE. 305 

died. orange and lemon peel, two ounces of powdered cin- 
namon, one large nutmeg, grated, half an ounce of pow- 
dered cloves, half an ounce of powdered mace, two gills 
of brandy, one pint of black molasses, one teaspoonful 
of salt, half a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda, the juice 
and peel of two oranges, the juice and peel of two lem- 
ons, nineteen eggs, and four ounces of the best chocolate, 
grated ; cream the butter and sugar; add the yolks of eggs, 
well beaten ; also the spice, brandy, salt, juice, and grated 
lemon and orange peel ; mix the chocolate with the flour, 
and stir it in ; of this, however, reserve one gill ; add to 
the batter now the whites of the eggs, which must previ- 
ously have been beaten stiff; when these have been well 
beaten in, add the soda dissolved in a little hot water; 
lastly, add the fruit and almonds, dredged thoroughly, with 
the gill of flour ; mix all smoothly and thoroughly, and 
then beat long and hard ; when beaten smooth and light, 
put into a large pan well papered and buttered, and bake 
for four or five hours at least. If possible, send it to a 
baker. 

Fruit Cake, Plain. — One pound of powdered sugar; 
one pound of the finest white flour, sifted ; one pound of 
butter; seven eggs; half a pound of currants, washed, 
picked, cleaned, and dredged ; half a pound of raisins, seed- 
ed, chopped, and dredged; quarter of a pound of citron, 
cut into tbe thinnest possible slips; one teaspoonful of 
nutmeg; one teaspoonful of cinnamon; one glassful of 
brandy ; cream, butter, and sugar. 

Add the beaten yolks, then the spice and the whipped 
whites alternately with the flour, the fruit and brandy 
last. 

Eclairs of Chocolate, Cream, etc. — Have ready a set of 
small eclair tins, five inches long and two wide, round at 
the bottom, and connected by strips of tin ; butter these 
tins well, and then proceed to make the eclairs as follows: 



306 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Four eggs well beaten, weight of the eggs in sugar, half the 
weight in flour, sifted, quarter of a teaspoonful of soda and 
half a teaspoonful of cream of tartar sifted well into the 
flour. Beat up the batter well, put a spoonful into each 
tin, and bake in a steady oven; when nearly cold cover 
the rounded side with a caramel icing made as follows: 
Two cupfuls of brown sugar, one cupful of molasses, one 
heaping tablespoonful of butter, and three tablespoonfuls 
of flour; boil twenty-five minutes, stir in half a pound of 
grated chocolate, w x et in one cupful of sweet milk, and boil 
until it hardens on the spoon : flavor to taste with vanilla. 
For cream eclairs proceed as above, but lay two eclairs to- 
gether, and fill the hollow between the two with cream- 
cake filling. 

Plain Loaf Cake.— Three cupfuls of light dough, taken 
when the bread is ready to be moulded ; one large cupful 
of sifted sugar; half a cupful of butter; two eggs well 
beaten ; one cupful of Sultana raisins, seeded, chopped, and 
dredged; one small nutmeg, grated ; one teaspoonful of 
cinnamon, and the same of allspice; half a teaspoonful of 
soda dissolved in a tablespoonful of milk. 

Warm the butter at the fire, and mix thoroughly and 
smoothly with the dough ; then beat the eggs and sugar 
together and add them to the dough, then the soda, spice, 
and fruit ; beat all well together, then pour it into deep 
tins, buttered, and let stand until it becomes quite light be- 
fore baking. 

Queen's Cakes. — One and a half cupfuls of loaf sugar, 
pounded and sifted; half a cupful of butter; half a cup- 
ful of sweet milk; three eggs beaten light, whites and 
yolks separately ; one teaspoonful of sherry or Madeira 
wine; two and a half cupfuls of flour, sifted; one pinch 
of saleratus. 

Mix as usual, and bake in small, round tins; ice 
thickly. 



CAKE. 307 

Dinah? s Spice Cake. — One pound of sifted flour ; one 
pound of sifted sugar; half a pound of butter; one tea- 
cupful of cream (or sour milk) ; one teaspoonf ul of soda ; 
one teaspoonfui of cloves; one teaspoonful of nutmeg; 
one teaspoonful of cinnamon ; one teaspoonful of grated 
lemon peel ; one pound of Sultana raisins, seeded and 
chopped. 

Mix as usual, putting in the raisins last. 

Dinah? 8 Fruit Cake. — One pound of flour, sifted; one 
pound of butter ; one pound of sugar, sifted ; two pounds 
of currants, picked, washed, and dredged ; three pounds of 
Sultana raisins, seeded, chopped, and dredged; quarter of 
a pound of orange, lemon, and citron peel, cut fine ; twelve 
eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately; two nutmegs, 
grated ; one tablespoonful of pounded cloves, mace, and 
cinnamon; one teaspoonful of soda; one small teacupful 
of molasses ; the juice of one lemon ; half a pint of brandy. 

Mix as usual, adding the lemon juice, fruit, and brandy 
last. 

Continental Fruit Cake. — One pound of butter; one 
pound of powdered sugar, sifted ; one and a half pounds 
of the finest white flour, sifted ; three quarters of a pound 
of stoned raisins; three quarters of a pound of currants, 
well washed and picked ; half a pound of citron cut in 
small pieces; eight eggs, whites and yolks beaten separate- 
ly to the utmost; one teacupful of cream; one wineglass- 
ful of brandy; one wineglassful of wine; one nutmeg, 
grated ; one teaspoonful of powdered mace ; one teaspoon- 
ful of powdered cloves; two teaspoonfuls of powdered 
cinnamon; one saltspoonful of salt; two teaspoonfuls of 
yeast powder mixed w T ith the flour. 

Beat the yolks of the eggs with the butter and sugar, 
add the cream, then beat in a quarter of the flour, add the 
beaten whites very gradually, and the rest of the flour a 
little at a time ; beat smooth ; then add the wine, brandy, 



308 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

and spice, then the fruit gradually ; then beat all well to- 
gether, put into a buttered pan, and bake with paper round 
the pan and on top in a steady, quick, but not too hot oven. 
It will require about an hour. 

Republican Cake. — One pound of flour, sifted ; three 
quarters of a pound of sugar, brown or white, sifted ; half 
a pound of butter ; six eggs ; one teacupful of cream ; one 
teaspoonf ul of saleratus ; flavoring to taste. 

Beat together thoroughly, and bake in a moderate oven. 

Cream Sponge Cake. — One cupful of sugar, half a cup- 
ful of cream, three eggs, one. cupful of sifted flour, and 
half a teaspoonful of soda. 

Beat very light, and bake slowly. 

Dark Loaf Cake (Old Humphrey). — Two and a 
quarter cupfuls of sifted flour; one cupful of brown 
sugar ; half a cupful of butter ; half a cupful of milk ; 
two eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately to the stiifest 
possible froth ; half a teaspoonful of ground cloves ; half 
a nutmeg, grated ; half a teaspoonful of cinnamon; one 
cupful of Sultana raisins, seeded and chopped ; half a cup- 
ful of molasses ; half a teaspoonful of cream of tartar; 
quarter of a teaspoonful of soda. 

Cream the butter and sugar, put with them the yolks 
beaten light, then add the milk and beat very hard before 
putting in the flour, into which the cream of tartar and 
soda should previously have been sifted ; beat again, and 
add the spice and whites of the eggs, then the molasses, 
and lastly the raisins ; bake in buttered tins, and test, as 
usual, with a straw. This is an old-fashioned and capital 
cake. 

Lee Cake. — Ten eggs, whites and yolks beaten sepa- 
rately ; one pound of sugar; half a pound of flour; two 
lemons. 



CAKE. 309 

To all the yolks, and the whites of seven eggs, add the 
sugar, the rind of two lemons (grated), and the juice of 
one ; bake as for jelly cake. To the whites of three 
eggs allow a pound and a quarter of powdered sugar ; beat 
stiff as for icing, take out enough to cover the top of the 
cake, and set aside ; add to the rest the juice, pulp (freed 
from skin and strings), and half the grated rind of a large 
orange ; beat smooth, and when the cake is nearly cold, 
spread this between the layers ; beat into the icing re- 
served for the top a little lemon juice. 

Lincoln Cake. — One pound of butter ; one pound of 
sugar; one pound of flour; six eggs well beaten, whites 
and yolks separately ; two cupf uls of sour cream ; one 
grated nutmeg; one teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon ; 
one tablespoonful of rose water; one teaspoonful of soda 
dissolved in hot water, and stirred into the milk just be- 
fore adding it to the cake. 

Cream the butter and sugar, add the whipped yolks, 
then the cream and spice, next the flour, then the rose 
water, and a double handful of citron cut into slips and 
dredged ; finally the beaten whites of the eggs ; stir all 
well, and bake in a card-shaped buttered tin. 

Dover Cake. — One pound of flour ; one pound of white 
sugar ; half a pound of butter, rubbed with the sugar to a 
very light cream ; six eggs well beaten, whites and yolks 
separately ; one cupful of sweet milk ; one teaspoonful of 
soda dissolved in vinegar; one teaspoonful of powdered 
cinnamon ; one tablespoonful of rose water. 

Mix all well together, then bake in round tins, well but- 
tered. Ice with almond icing. 

Pound Cake. — One pound of flour ; one pound of eggs ; 
one pound of sugar; three quarters of a pound of butter; 
one wineglassf ul of best brandy ; one nutmeg, grated ; one 
teaspoonful of mace. 



310 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Cream half the flour with the butter, and add brandy 
and spice ; beat the yolks until light, add the sugar, then 
the beaten whites, and the rest of the flour alternately ; 
when this is thoroughly mixed, put all together, and heat 
steadily for half an hour ; flavor the icing of this cake 
with rose water. 

Jelly Cake. — To make jelly cake, it is necessary to have 
the round, flat tins that are made for this purpose. Then 
make a batter exactly like that for White Mountain cake, 
and bake in the buttered tins ; each layer should not be 
more than half an inch thick ; when baked, lay them to 
cool on a marble slab or flat table, so that they may not 
warp ; when cold, spread on the lower one a thick layer of 
some acid jelly, then place a layer of cake on the top of 
this, and proceed in this way until you have piled up all ; 
four layers are enough for a cake ; ice the top thickly. 

Vermont Orange Cake. — One and a half cupfuls of 
sugar; half a cupful of butter, stirred to a cream; half a 
cupful of milk ; two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, stirred 
into enough sifted flour to make a fairly stiff batter ; yolks 
of three eggs, and whites of two ; grated rind of an orange. 
Bake in jelly-cake tins, and, when done, spread between 
each layer a mixture made of the stiffly beaten white of 
one egg, the juice of a large orange, and enough powdered 
sugar to thicken as for icing. 

Florida Orange Cake. — Two cupfuls of sugar; two 
cupfuls of flour; half a cupful of water; juice and rind 
of one lemon ; yolks of five eggs and whites of four ; one 
teaspoonf ul of cream of tartar ; half a teaspoonful of soda. 

When the batter is light, bake it in jelly-cake tins, then 
beat the reserved white to the stiffest possible froth with 
half a cupful of sugar, finely powdered, and the grated 
rind, juice, and pulp of a large orange. Proceed as 
above. 



CAKE. 311 

Silver .Cake. — One and a half cupf uls of sugar (teacups) ; 
half a cupful of milk ; half a cupful of butter ; two cup- 
fuls of flour, sifted ; bitter-almond flavoring ; whites of 
four eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. 

Cream butter and sugar, then add the milk and flavor- 
ing, then the flour, lastly the eggs, stirring continually ; 
beat hard and long, and bake in brick-shaped tins. 

Gold Cake. — Should be made on the same day with silver 
cake. Two cupfuls of white sugar, sifted (teacups); one 
cupful of butter; three cupfuls of sifted flour; yolks of 
seven eggs, beaten to the utmost ; white of one egg, beaten 
to the utmost ; half a cupful of milk ; piece of one small 
lemon and half the grated rind. 

• Mix and bake as usual. Both silver and gold cake should 
be iced thickly. 

Marole Cake. — Light: One cupful of white sugar; 
half a cupful of butter ; half a cupful of milk ; two cup- 
fuls of flour ; whites of three eggs, beaten very stiff ; one 
teaspoonful of cream of tartar ; half a teaspoonful of soda. 
Dark : Half a cupful of brown sugar ; quarter of a cupful 
of butter ; half a cupful of molasses ; quarter of a cupful 
of milk ; two cupfuls of flour ; yolks of three eggs ; half 
a nutmeg, grated ; one teaspoonful of allspice ; one tea- 
spoonful of ammonia ; one teaspoonful of soda ; one tea- 
spoonful of cream of tartar. 

Butter your mould, and put in the dark and light bat- 
ters in alternate layers. 

Madison *s Whim Cake. — One and a half pounds of 
sugar ; one and three quarter pounds of finest white flour, 
sifted ; three quarters of a pound of butter ; six eggs, 
well beaten, whites and yolks separately ; one pound of 
Sultana raisins, seeded and chopped ; one pound of cur- 
rants, well washed, picked, and dredged ; one pint of rich 
milk; twelve cloves ground to powder; half a nutmeg, 



312 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

grated ; one coffeespoonf ul each of wine, brandy, and rose 
water. 

Cream the butter and sugar, add the beaten yolks, then 
the spice and whipped whites alternately with the flour, 
and the milk, the fruit, and flavoring last ; beat well until 
very smooth and light ; bake in a large pan. 

Pound Cake (Mrs. Washington's).— Forty eggs, whites 
and yolks beaten separately to the utmost ; four pounds 
of butter; four pounds of fine white sugar, sifted; five 
pounds of fine white flour, sifted ; five pounds of raisins, 
currants, and citron, stoned, cleaned, and cut; half an 
ounce of grated nutmeg ; one pint of white wine ; one 
wineglassful of French brandy. 

Beat the whites to the stiffest possible froth ; then work 
four pounds of butter to a cream ; when smooth put the 
whites to it, a spoonful at a time, then the sugar in the 
same manner, then the beaten yolks, the flour, fruit, and 
flavoring; bake two hours. 

Molasses Pound Cake. — One cupful of molasses ; one 
cupful of sugar, sifted ; one cupful of butter ; half a cup- 
ful of sweet milk ; one cupful of stoned raisins ; spices to 
taste ; flour to make a stiff batter. 

Bake it in a deep pan. 

Kansas Cocoanut Pound Cake. — Bake the cakes in tins 
as for jelly cake, spread each one thickly with soft icing, 
strew them with grated cocoanut, and place the cakes in 
layers, one above another, four in all. 

Election Cake. — Two cupfuls of the batter of dough 
raised with yeast ; one cupful of sugar ; one cupful of rai- 
sins, stoned; half a cupful of butter; one egg; one tea- 
spoonful of cinnamon. 

Mix all well together, knead, and bake in a loaf. 



CAKE. 313 

Hocus-pocus Pound Cake. — One pound of butter; one 
pound of sugar, sifted ; one pound of flour, sifted ; twelve 
eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately ; one teaspoonf ul 
of baking-powder ; one nutmeg, grated ; one wineglassful 
of rose water ; one wineglassful of brandy. 

Cream the butter and sugar ; add the brandy, nutmeg, 
and rose water; beat in the yolks carefully; then add the 
beaten whites alternately with one pound of sifted flour ; 
lastly, sprinkle over, and beat well into the batter, a tea- 
spoonful of baking-powder; bake in cake pans. 

Ginger Pound Cake. — One teacupful of butter; one 
teacupful of sugar, sifted; two teacupfuls of molasses; 
one teacupful of cream with a little soda dissolved in it ; 
flour enough to make a stiff batter ; four eggs well beaten ; 
three tablespoonfnls of ginger, one of cinnamon, and one 
of cloves, all powdered. 

Indian Meal Pound Cake. — One pint of fine yellow 
Indian meal, sifted ; half a pint of wheat flour, sifted ; 
half a pound of white sugar, sifted ; half a pound of fresh 
butter; eight eggs, well beaten, whites and yolks separate- 
ly ; one glassful of white wine ; one wineglassful of bran- 
dy ; one nutmeg, grated ; one tablespoonful of cinnamon* 
powdered. 

Mix the flour and meal well together ; then beat the 
butter and sugar to cream ; add the spice, brandy, and 
wine ; then stir in the eggs and meal alternately ; beat 
hard and long together, put into a buttered tin pan, and 
bake about two hours ; eat fresh. 

Savarin Cake. — Two ounces of beer yeast mixed in 
a little warm milk; six ounces of flour stirred into the 
yeast and milk ; twelve ounces of butter beaten to a cream; 
the yolks of four eggs beaten into the butter at intervals 
of five minutes, beating all the time; four entire eggs 
beaten in the same way; twelve ounces of sifted flour 

U 



314 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

beaten in next, then the yeast and flour mixed ; three 
ounces of lemon juice ; one tablespoonf ul of cream ; three 
teaspoonf uls of milk ; two ounces of powdered sugar. 

Grease two pans, three inches deep, with butter, and 
sprinkle them with sugar ; put in the batter, and let it rise 
for about two hours ; when light put the pans into a quick 
oven and bake; when the cakes are done remove them 
from the pans ; stir together, over the fire, a teaspoon- 
ful of Maraschino, and one of Marsalla wine, with a tea- 
spoonful of powdered sugar ; when the sugar is dissolved, 
wash the cakes well over with the syrup. 

Perfection Sponge Cake. — Fourteen eggs, the yolks of 
all and the whites of four; one pound of sifted flour; one 
and a half pounds of white sugar, sifted ; two small, juicy, 
thin-skinned lemons. 

Separate the yolks and whites, putting the yolks into 
the vessel in which the cake is to be beaten; beat the eggs 
to the utmost, first separately, then together ; meanwhile 
add to the sugar in the saucepan three wineglassfuls of 
water, let it dissolve before placing it on a hot fire, and 
stir it to keep it from burning ; when boiling hot, pour it 
upon the beaten eggs, beating hard all the time, and pour- 
ing slowly until it is entirely cold ; add the strained juice 
and grated rind of the lemons ; beat a little while longer 
to make the batter very light; stir in slowly the sifted 
flour, but do not heat it ; then put into two brick-shaped 
tins well buttered ; bake half an hour. An oven hot 
enough to bake bread with a tender, soft crust will be hot 
enough. While the cake is baking, put the four extra 
whites on a shallow dish, and beat in gradually one pound 
of pulverized sugar ; beat very light, flavor to taste, and, 
as soon as you take the cake from the oven, ice it ; do so 
thoroughly on the under side of the cake, which should be 
turned over with a damp knife ; score the icing into lines 
with a damp knife, then set the cake away to cool. 



CAKE. 315 

Sponge Cake a la Virginie. — Ten eggs, whites and yolks 
beaten separately ; weight of the eggs in powdered sugar ; 
half their weight in the finest white flour, sifted ; the jnice 
of one lemon ; grated rind of one lemon. 

Break the yolks into a shallow basin, and the whites 
into a wide, shallow dish ; beat the yolks first, and very 
light; when the yolks are beaten to the utmost, beat in 
half the sugar ; then beat the whites to the stiffest possible 
froth, and beat in the remainder of the sugar; then beat 
all together hard and long, add the lemon juice and grated 
peel, and, lastly, beat in the sifted flour in the lightest pos- 
sible way, as the less the cake is beaten after the flour is 
added, the lighter it will be ; put into buttered pans, and 
just before putting into the oven sift a little fine sugar 
over the top ; bake in a moderate oven until a straw comes 
out of the cake smooth and clean. 

Rhode Island Cake. — One cupful of sifted sugar ; one 
cupful of milk ; half a cupful of butter ; two eggs well 
beaten, whites and yolks separately ; two teaspoonfuls of 
cream of tartar sifted into one quart of flour; another 
half a cupful of milk with a teaspoonf ul of soda dissolved 
in it; put the butter in last. 

Beat very hard, and bake quickly. 

White Mountain Cake. — Half a cupful of butter; two 
cnpfuls of sugar; three and a quarter cupfuls of sifted 
flour; one cupful of milk; five eggs well beaten with the 
butter and sugar to a cream ; three teaspoonfuls of baking- 
powder. 

Bake in layers. For the filling take the whites of four 
eggs, beaten to a froth (stiff), with one pound of fine sug- 
ar ; flavor with essence of bitter almond ; spread each lay- 
er of the cake thickly, place one on another, then ice all 



Risen Crullers. — Two quarts of flour ; six teaspoonfuls 



316 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

of yeast powder ; two teacupf uls of sugar ; three eggs ; 
six ounces of butter; one pint of rich milk; a little 
salt. 

Warm the butter in the milk ; do not beat the eggs be- 
fore mixing them with the other ingredients ; knead the 
dough well, roll it out in a sheet half an inch thick, cut 
with a jagging-iron, and throw the cakes into boiling lard ; 
be sure that the lard is absolutely boiling before throwing 
them in ; fry a light brown. 

Crullers (" Common-Sense in the Household "). — One 
pound of butter; one and a half pounds of powdered sug- 
ar; twelve eggs, well beaten ; mace and nutmeg to taste; 
flour to roll out stiff. 

Roll out into a thin sheet, cut into shapes with a jag- 
ging-iron, and fry in plenty of boiling lard; test the heat 
by dropping in one ; it should rise instantly to the surface. 
These crullers should be a fine yellow. If the fat should 
become so hot that the crullers brown before puffing out 
to their full dimensions, take the kettle from the fire for 
a few minutes. It is best to cut out all ths crullers before 
beginning to fry them. The above receipt is for a large 
quantity of crullers. 

Plainer Crullers. — One and a half teacupf uls of sugar ; 
half a teacupful of sour cream or milk; one third of a tea- 
cupful of butter; one egg well beaten; one small tea- 
spoonful of soda dissolved in hot water ; flour to roll out 
a tolerably stiff paste. 

Marvels. — Half a pint of sugar ; four eggs well beaten ; 
one quart of flour ; half a teaspoonful of soda. 

Rub well, and beat to a cream the eggs, sugar, and soda ; 
then stir in one quart of flour, beating and stirring con- 
stantly, and take a separate half-pint of flour to roll the 
cakes out in ; cut in lozenges, and cook in boiling lard like 
doughnuts. 



CAKE. 317 

Albany OlicooJcs. — One pint of lukewarm milk; one 
teacupful of melted lard ; one small cupful of yeast ; 
enough of the finest white flour, sifted, to make a thick 
batter ; three cupfuls of powdered sugar ; six eggs, whites 
only, beaten to the utmost ; one teaspoonful of salt. 

Stir the melted lard into the lukewarm milk, then enough 
flour to make a thick batter, and add a small cupful of 
yeast ; beat it well, and set it to rise ; when light, work in 
gradually and carefully three cupfuls of sugar, the whipped 
whites of six eggs, and the salt ; work in gradually enough 
flour to make it stiff enough to roll out; let it rise again, 
and when very light roil it out in a sheet an inch thick ; 
cut into rounds ; put into the centre of each round a large 
Sultapa raisin, seeded, and mould into perfectly round 
balls ; let them stand a few minutes before boiling them ; 
have plenty of lard in the pot, and when it boils drop in 
the cakes ; when they are a light brown, take them out 
with a perforated skimmer; drain on soft white paper, 
and roll, while warm, in fine powdered sugar. These are 
delicious doughnuts. 

Risen Doughnuts. — One pound of butter ; one and 
three quarter pounds of sugar; one quart of sweet milk; 
four eggs; one large cupful of yeast; one tablespoonful 
of mace or nutmeg, grated ; two teaspoonf uls of cinnamon ; 
flour to make all as stiff as bread dough ; one teaspoonful 
of salt. 

Cream the butter and sugar; add the milk, yeast, and 
three pints of flour; set to rise overnight; in the morn- 
ing beat the eggs very light, and stir into the batter with 
the spice and the rest of the flour; set to rise three hours, 
or until light; roll into a pretty thick sheet, form into 
round balls, and fry in boiling lard; roll, while warm, in 
powdered sugar. 

Quick Doughnuts. — One cupful of butter; two cupfuls 
of sugar; four eggs, or the whites only of six ; one cupful 



318 THE UNEIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

of sour cream; one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in hot 
water; one teaspoonful of grated nutmeg; half a tea- 
spoonful of cinnamon; ilour to roll out in pretty soft 
dough. 

Cut into rounds, form into balls, and fry in hot lard. 

Boston Cream, Cakes. — Half a pound of butter; three 
quarters of a pound of flour; eight eggs; one pint of wa- 
ter, warm. 

Stir the butter into the warm water; set it on the fire 
in a saucepan, and slowly bring it to a boil, stirring it 
often ; when it boils, put in the flour, boil one minute, 
stirring it all the while; take from the fire, turn into a 
deep dish, and let it cool; beat the eggs very light, and 
whip into this cooled paste, first the yolks, and then the 
whites ; drop in great spoonfuls upon buttered paper, tak- 
ing care not to let them touch or run into each other, and 
bake ten minutes. 

Cream for Filling. — One quart of rich, sweet milk ; four 
tablespoonf uls of corn-starch ; two eggs, well beaten ; two 
cupfuls of sugar. 

Wet the corn-starch with enough milk to work it into a 
smooth paste; boil the rest of the milk; beat two eggs, 
add the sugar and corn-starch, and as soon as the milk 
boils pour in the mixture gradually, stirring all the time 
until smooth and thick; drop in a teaspoonful of butter, 
and when this is mixed in set the custard aside to cool; 
then add the flavoring; split open the puffs, and fill with 
the mixture. 

Almond Cheese Cakes. — Half a pound of almonds 
blanched, and pounded in a mortar; half a pound of pow- 
dered sugar; the yolks of eight eggs well beaten; the 
grated rind of one lemon. 

Beat all together until it becomes light and frothing; 
fill paste shells with it, and bake in a slow oven. 



CAKE. 319 

Philadelphia Lemon Cheese Cakes. — The yolks of eight 
eggs, beaten very light ; three quarters of a pound of 
sugar ; half a pound of butter, well creamed ; the juice 
of three lemons, and the grated peel of two. 

Mix all together, fill shells of puff paste, and bake in a 
slow oven. 

Devonshire Curd Cheese Calces. — Run a gallon of new 
milk with rennet as for cheese; drain off all the whey 
from it ; put to it half a pound of butter turned to cream ; 
half a pound of raw cream; half a pound of pounded loaf 
sugar; eight yolks of eggs; salt and nutmeg to taste; half 
a wineglassful of brandy; three quarters of a pound of 
currants, well washed and picked; three quarters of a 
pound of candied orange peel, chopped fine. 

Mix all well together, and bake in open shells of puff 
paste. 

Lemon Cheese Cakes. — Two ounces of butter; two eggs ; 
three tablespoonfuls of soft sugar; the grated rinds and 
juice of two lemons; two stale Savoy biscuits (or lady- 
fingers), powdered. 

Beat all the ingredients well together, and simmer over 
the fire a few minutes; bake in shells of puff paste. These 
are old-fashioned cheese cakes, celebrated in English 
novels. 

Yorkshire Curd Cheese Cakes. — Procure some good but- 
termilk and keep it for a day or two ; then put into a pan 
or basin two quarts of fresh milk ; place this in the oven ; 
when it begins to simmer take it out, and ladle the butter- 
milk into it by spoonfuls, giving a gentle stir each time; 
when the curds appear in the. milk, and the whey becomes 
thin, cease adding the buttermilk ; next tie the curds in a 
strainer or piece of canvas, iind hang them up for a few 
hours; to make the cheese cakes, add a cupful of sweet 
cream to the curds, a cupful of cleaned currants, a cupful 



320 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

of loaf sugar pounded fine, an ounce of mixed peel cut 
up, and a pinch of salt; mix all these, add a couple of 
eggs, the whites and yolks beaten separately, and a wine- 
glassful of rum, brandy, or liqueur ; put in puff-paste 
shells and bake in a quick oven. {Very good.) 

Cocoanut Cones. — One pound of powdered sugar; 
half a pound of grated cocoanut; the whites of eight 
eggs. 

Whip the eggs and sugar as for icing until it will stand 
alone, then beat in the cocoanut; mould the mixture into 
small cones, and set them at a proper distance (not touch- 
ing each other), on buttered paper, in a baking-pan ; bake 
in a very moderate oven. 

Old-fashioned CoQoanut Calces. — One cocoanut, care- 
fully skinned and grated ; the milk of the cocoanut ; one 
and a half pounds of powdered sugar ; the whites of three 
eggs, well beaten ; as much water as cocoanut milk. 

Dissolve one pound of the sugar in the milk and water ; 
stew until it becomes a "ropy" syrup, and turn out into 
a buttered dish ; have ready the beaten white of egg, with 
the remaining half pound of sugar whipped into it; mix 
this with the grated cocoanut, and, little by little, beating 
in all the while the boiled syrup, as soon as it cools suffi- 
ciently not to scald the eggs, drop in spoonfuls upon but- 
tered paper ; if the batter be too thin, add more sugar ; do 
not let them brown at all. 

Sugar Cookies. — One pound of sugar, sifted ; one quar- 
ter of a pound of butter ; three drops of the essence of 
citron ; one egg, well beaten ; flour enough to enable you 
to roll out the cookies. 

Cut into small rounds and bake. 

Water Cookies. — One cupful of butter ; two cupf uls of 
sifted sugar; two thirds of a cupful of warm water; four 



CAKE. 321 

cupf uls of sifted flour ; one nutmeg, grated ; one heaping 
teaspoonful of soda. 

Roll out, cut into rounds, and bake. 

Rose Cookies. — Six eggs, the whites and yolks beaten 
separately ; one cupful of butter ; three cupf uls of sifted 
sugar ; a wineglassf nl of rose water. 

Make into round cakes and bake in a quick oven. 

Ginger Crackers, No. 1. — Two quarts of sifted flour ; 
one pint of molasses; one pound of brown sugar; half a 
pound of lard; two ounces of ground ginger; one tea- 
spoonful of ground cloves. 

Knead long and hard, and roll out very thin ; cut into 
small rounds, and bake over a steady, strong fire. 

Ginger Crackers. No. 2.— Two quarts of sifted flour ; 
one pint of molasses; one saucerful of brown sugar; one 
wineglassf ul of sherry ; three tablespoonfuls of lard ; one 
heaping tablespoonful of butter; one teaspoonful of cloves, 
ground ; one teaspoonful of allspice, ground. 

Knead long and hard and roll thin ; bake as above. 

Ginger-nuts. — One quart of molasses; three pints of 
flour, sifted ; one pint of corn meal, sifted ; one pound of 
butter ; half a pound of coarse brown sugar; one ounce of 
allspice, one teaspoonful of cloves, one teaspoonful of cin- 
namon, and two ounces of ginger, ground. 

Put the molasses in an earthen saucepan, add the but- 
ter and the sugar, and set on the fire in another and larger 
saucepan of boiling water ; let it stand until the butter 
and sugar are dissolved; in the meantime mix the spices, 
all pounded, with the flour and meal; afterwards knead 
the whole together and cut into rounds the size of a silver 
half-dollar; bake fifteen minutes, or more if necessary. 

Scotch Cakes.— -One pound of white sugar, sifted ; one 

14* 



322 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

pound of eggs; half a pound of fine flour, sifted ; half a 
pound of meal, ditto ; three quarters of a pound of butter ; 
one gill of brandy ; one nutmeg, grated fine. 

Mix well and smoothly, knead hard, and roll out thin ; 
bake on buttered paper in a shallow tin. 

Lady Cake. — One pound of sifted sugar ; three quarters 
of a pound of sifted flour; six ounces of butter; the 
whipped whites of ten eggs. 

Flavor with bitter almond, and bake in small square tins ; 
ice with the boiled icing, and flavor the icing with rose 
water. 

Seed Cakes. — Two pounds of sifted white flour ; one 
pound of sifted white powdered sugar ; half a pound of 
caraway seeds ; one teaspoonf ul of lemon juice. 

Melt the butter and sugar, work to a smooth paste, then 
add the lemon juice, then the sifted flour, little by little, 
then the caraway seeds; roll it out half an inch thick, cut 
into small squares, crimp the edges, lay on buttered paper, 
and bake to a pale brown in a quick oven. 

Meg DodcPs Cakes (Edinburgh). — One teacupful of 
sweet milk ; one egg beaten light ; a piece of butter the 
size of a walnut ; a pinch of salt ; enough flour to roll out 
the cakes. 

Cut into lozenges, lay on buttered paper, and bake in a 
quick oven. 

Jennie Dean's Heart Cakes. — One teacupful of sifted 
sugar; one teacupful of butter; one teaspoonf ul of rich 
cream; one teaspoonf ul of soda; one nutmeg, grated; 
one egg, beaten light ; enough flour to roll out the cakes. 

Cut in hearts, and bake. 

New-Year's Cakes. — One and a quarter pounds of sugar ; 
one pound of butter ; half a pint of cold water ; three and 



CAKE. 323 

a quarter pounds of flour ; two eggs, well beaten ; one tea- 
spoonful of soda dissolved in hot water ; four tablespoon- 
f uls of caraway seeds, sprinkled through the flour. 

Rub the butter; or, better still, chop up in the flour 
and dissolve the sugar in the water ; mix all well with the 
beaten eggs, cut in the regular New-year-cake shape, and 
bake quickly. 

Stickeys. — One and a quarter pounds of fine white sugar, 
sifted ; three quarters of a pound of butter ; one egg, well 
beaten ; one wineglassfnl of rose water ; one wineglassful 
of peach water ; half a nutmeg, grated. 

Mix all well together, form in small rounds, and bake on 
buttered tins. 

Hurry Cakes. — One and a half tablespoonfuls of white 
sugar; two eggs, well beaten, whites and yolks separately ; 
three and a half cupfuls of flour, sifted ; one cupful of 
sweet milk ; half a cupful of sweet cream ; one pinch of 
salt, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, and one of soda. 

Beat the sugar and eggs together first, then add the 
rest, alternating the milk and flour ; bake in well-heated 
gem-pans ; bake twenty minutes in a quick oven. 

Macaroons. — Soak half a pound of sweet almonds in 
boiling water until the skin will come off easily, then wipe 
them dry, and pound them fine with rose water ; beat the 
whites of three eggs to the stiffest froth, stir in gradually 
half a pound of powdered white sugar, and then add the 
almonds ; when these are all mixed in, drop the mixture 
in small heaps on buttered baking-plates, half an inch apart, 
sift sugar over them, and bake them in a slow oven. 

Cocoanut Drops. — One pound of grated cocoanut ; three 
quarters of a pound of light-brown sugar. 

Put the sugar on the fire in a kettle, with about a table- 
spoonful of water in, just enough to prevent it from burn- 



324 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

ing; stir it constantly, and when the sugar is melted and 
forms a smooth mass, remove it from the fire, add the 
cocoanut, and mix it well with the sugar, and then stir 
thoroughly through the whole the whites of three eggs, 
beaten light, to bind it all together ; mould the cakes with 
the hand, using a tablespoonful of the mixture for each 
one ; form them in round balls, and bake on buttered tins. 

ShelTbark Macaroons. — One cupful of kernels, blanched 
and chopped fine; one cupful of sugar; one egg, well 
beaten ; one tablespoonful of flour. 

Beat well together, drop in little heaps the size of a 
large nutmeg, on buttered papers in pans ; bake a delicate 
brown. 

Passover Prealaters. — Twelve eggs, well beaten, whites 
and yolks separately ; weight of the eggs in fine sifted 
sugar; half the weight in fine sifted flour; grated rind of 
a lemon, and all the juice. 

Mix as for sponge cake, beat very light, bake in small 
buttered tins, and ice. 

Blueberry Short Cake. — One cupful of sifted sugar; 
one cupful of sweet milk ; two eggs, well beaten, whites 
and yolks separately ; two tablespoonfuls of melted butter; 
one and a half pints of sifted flour; two heaped teaspoon- 
fuls of baking-powder, sifted into the flour; one cupful of 
blueberries well flavored. 

Beat all well together, and bake in a quick oven. Eat 
hot. 

Lafayette Ginger Balls. — Half a pound of butter; half 
a pound of sugar, sifted ; one pint of molasses; six eggs, 
well beaten, whites and yolks separately ; one coffecupful 
of sour cream ; two teaspoonfuls each of powdered cloves 
and cinnamon ; two and a half teaspoonfuls of ginger ; one 
heaped teaspoonful of soda dissolved in hot water; rind 



CAKE. 325 

and juice of an orange and a lemon ; one and a half pounds 
of sifted flour. 

Cream the butter and sugar, warm the molasses slightly, 
and beat them together; then the beaten yolks, next the 
milk and spice, the soda, flour, and whites, well whipped ; 
beat well before baking. Put into small, round tin moulds 
(queen-cake shape) and bake. 

Ginger Wafer Snaps. — One pound of butter; three 
pounds of flour, sifted; three quarters of a pound of 
sugar, sifted ; two ounces of powdered ginger ; eight dozen 
of powdered cloves ; ten dozen of powdered allspice ; half 
an ounce of cinnamon, powdered ; one quart of molasses. 

Mix smoothly and well, knead it in small quantities, and 
then knead it all together. If the dough is too thin to 
roll out properly, add enough sifted flour to enable you to 
do so ; roll out thin, cut into small cakes, and bake on 
buttered tins. 

Ginger /Snaps, Virginia. — One cupful of butter and 
one cupful of lard melted together ; one cupful of brown 
sugar; two cupfuls of molasses; half a cupful of milk; 
two tablespoonfuls of ginger ; two teaspoonf uls of sale- 
ratus, dissolved in hot water. 

Mix with the melted lard and butter, the sugar, molasses, 
milk, ginger, and saleratus ; add just enougli sifted flour 
to enable you to roll it out very thin. Cut in small rounds, 
and bake in buttered tins, in a slow oven. 

Old Humphrey's Ginger Snaps. — One cupful of butter; 
two cupfuls of molasses; two tablespoonfuls of ginger; 
two teaspoonf uls of soda ; enough sifted flour to roll out. 

Roll out very thin, cut into rounds with a claret glass, 
lay on buttered paper, and bake in a quick oven. 

Old Humphrey's Orange Ginger Snaps. — One pint of 
molasses; one pound of sugar; three quarters of a pound 



326 THE UNKIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

of butter; one ounce of ginger, ground; one ounce of 
candied orange peel snipped fine ; one teaspoonful of soda; 
enough sifted flour to make stiff. 

Cut into small rounds, and bake as above. If properly 
made and baked, these are delicious snaps, 

Mary Anne's Cookies. — One cupful of butter; one cup- 
ful of sugar; one cupful of sour milk or cream; one nut- 
meg, grated ; one teaspoonful of saleratus ; enough flour 
to enable you to roll out the cookies. 

Cut into rounds and bake. 

Almond Wafers. — A quarter, of a pound of almonds, 
blanched, and pounded to a paste with rose water ; half 
a pound of sugar ; whites of six eggs well beaten ; two 
ounces of flour. 

Beat to a thin batter, bake in wafer-irons, and roll while 
warm. 

Wafers, No. 1. — Nine spoonfuls of powdered sugar; 
nine spoonfuls of sifted flour; two eggs beaten up with 
milk. 

Make a batter as for pancakes, and bake in wafer-irons. 
The irons should be often greased while new, afterwards 
one greasing will suffice. 

Wafers, No. 2. — Six eggs; one pint of flour; two 
ounces of melted butter ; one and a half cupfuls of pow- 
dered sugar ; one cupful of milk ; one teaspoonful of nut- 
meg. 

Beat the whites and yolks separately, and very stiff ; rub 
the sugar and butter together, and work in first the yolks, 
then the milk, then the flour and whites ; bake very quickly 
in well-buttered wafer-irons, and roll while small upon an 
iron wafer-stick. 

Mary Anne's Wafers. — One cupful of butter ; two cup- 



CAKE. 327 

fuls of sugar ; three eggs well beaten ; a quarter of a tea- 
spoonful of soda dissolved in boiling water ; one teaspoon- 
f ul of nutmeg ; half a teaspoonful of cloves ; flour enough 
to make a soft dough. 

Work in gradually enough flour to roll out very thin / 
cut in rounds with a tumbler, and bake quickly. 

Schnee Wandeln (Fran von P. zu P.), — Four ounces of 
butter ; five ounces of sifted sugar ; three ounces of sifted 
flour of the finest quality ; whites of five eggs beaten to 
the utmost. 

Beat sugar and butter to a cream ; then add, little by 
little, the sifted flour, stirring all the time; then the beat- 
en whites, still stirring; when all the ingredients are well 
mixed together, beat hard and long until the whole' mass 
is as light as snow; have ready some small tin forms, 
shaped thus : \_J They must be buttered and dusted light- 
ly with crystallized sugar ; fill these with the snow batter, 
and bake in a quick oven ; turn them out of the forms be- 
fore serving. If you wish to fill the schnee wandeln, you 
should half fill the forms with the batter; then put in a 
spoonful of some tart preserve, and fill up the form again 
with the batter. This is a famous Bavarian dainty, always 
made about Christmas time. 

Philadelphia Jumbles. — One pound of sugar; half a 
pound of butter; eight eggs, beaten light; essence of bit- 
ter almond or rose to taste ; enough flour to enable you to 
roll them out. 

Stir the sugar and butter to a light cream, then add the 
well- whipped eggs, the flavoring, and flour ; mix well to- 
gether, roll out in powdered sugar, roll in a sheet a quar- 
ter of an inch thick, cut into rings with a jagging-iron, 
and bake in a quick oven on buttered tins. 

Cream Jumbles. — One cupful of sugar; one cupful of 
butter; half a capful of sour cream ; one egg well beaten ; 



328 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in hot water; nutmeg 
to taste. 

Mix and bake as above. 

Lemon Jumbles. — One egg ; one teacupf ul of sugar ; 
half a teacupf ul of butter ; three teaspoonluls of milk ; 
one teaspoonful of cream of tartar ; half a teaspoonful of 
soda ; two small lemons, the juice of both, and grated rind 
of one. 

Mix rather stiff, roll out, cut, and bake as usual. 

Almond Jumbles. — One pound of sugar; half a pound 
of flour; quarter of a pound of butter; one teacupful of 
loppered milk ; Hve eggs, well beaten ; two tablespoonf uls 
of rose water; three quarters of a pound of almonds, 
blanched and chopped very fine; one teaspoonful of soda 
dissolved in boiling water. 

Cream butter and sugar ; stir in the beaten yolks, the 
milk, flour, rose water, almonds, and, lastly, the beaten 
whites very lightly and quickly ; drop in rings on but- 
tered paper, and bake at once. 

JBoiled Icing. — One and a half pounds of the finest 
sifted white sugar ; one pint of water. 

Mix and boil until it ropes; have ready the whites of 
seven eggs beaten to a stiff froth ; pour the syrup into a 
bowl, and stir until milkwarm ; then add the eggs, and beat 
hard for an hour. 

Quick Icing. — For the white of every egg use at least 
one quarter of a pound of sifted sugar ; break the whites 
into a broad, shallow dish ; throw a little sugar on them, 
and begin beating smoothly and steadily ; proceed in this 
way until the icing is formed ; pour the icing by the spoon- 
ful on the top of the cake, and let it settle itself if possi- 
ble; if not, use a broad-bladed knife to spread it, dipped 
in cold water ; if in haste, set the cake in the oven to dry 
for three minutes. 



CAKE. 329 

Chocolate Icing. — Quarter of a cake of chocolate, grat- 
ed ; half a cupful of sweet milk; one tablespoonful of 
corn-starch ; one teaspoonf ul of vanilla extract ; powdered 
sugar to taste. 

Mix smoothly, boil two minutes after it has fairly come 
to a boil, flavor, and sweeten with powdered sugar. It 
must be very sweet. 

Almond Icing. — One pound of sweet almonds, blanched, 
pounded to a paste in a Wedgewood mortar, and moistened 
with rose water ; one pound of powdered sugar ; the whites 
of four eggs whipped stiff. 

Prepare the icing as usual ; then beat in the almond 
paste ; put on half an inch thick, and when dry cover with 
plain icing. 

Sweet- Potato Pone. — One quart of grated raw sweet 
potato; one teacupful of pow T dered sugar; one teacupful 
of butter; one teacupful of molasses; two teacupfuls of 
warm water; one tablespoonful of powdered ginger. 

Mix all well together, and bake in a buttered pan two 
or three inches deep ; eat hot. 

Soft Gingerbread, No. 1. — One cupful of molasses; one 
cupful of butter; one cupful of sugar ; one cupful of sour 
cream; one tablespoonful of powdered ginger; three eggs, 
well beaten ; one tablespoonful of soda dissolved in hot 
water ; ground spice to taste ; flour enough to make a stiff 
batter. 

Mix the butter and sugar together to a cream, and then 
add the other ingredients ; beat the eggs last, whites and 
yolks together ; bake in a buttered baking-pan in a very 
slow oven. 

Soft Gingerbread, No. 2. — One cupful of butter ; one cup- 
ful of molasses ; one cupful of sugar; one cupful of sour 
milk or buttermilk; one teaspoonf ul of soda dissolved in 



330 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

boiling water ; one tablespoonful of ginger ; one teaspoon- 
f ul of cinnamon ; two eggs, well beaten ; enough sifted 
flour to make the batter as thick as cup-cake batter. 

Stir the butter, sugar, molasses, and spice together to a 
light cream, and set them on the range until slightly warm ; 
beat the eggs light ; add the milk to the warm mixture, 
then the eggs, soda, and, lastly, the flour ; beat very hard 
ten minutes, and bake at once in a loaf. 

Sponge Gingerbread. — Five cupf uls of sifted flour ; one 
cupful of molasses; one cupful of sugar; one cupful of 
sour cream ; one heaping tablespoonful of butter ; two 
teaspoonfuls of saleratus dissolved in hot water ; two tea- 
spoonfuls of powdered ginger; two teaspoonfuls of pow- 
dered cinnamon. 

Mix the molasses, sugar, butter, and spice together, warm 
them slightly, and beat until they are very light; add the 
sour milk, then the saleratus and the flour gradually ; then 
half a pound of the finest Sultana raisins, seeded and 
chopped; beat very hard five minutes, and bake in a 
broad, shallow pan well buttered. 

Fruit Gingerbread. — Two pounds of the finest white 
flour, sifted ; three quarters of a pound of butter ; one 
pound of brown sugar ; one pound of currants, picked, 
washed, and dredged ; one pound of Sultana raisins, seed- 
ed, chopped, and dredged ; a quarter of a pound of candied 
orange peel, shredded very fine, and dredged ; two cup- 
fuls of molasses ; half a cupful of sour cream ; six eggs, 
whites and yolks beaten separately; one heaping teaspoon- 
ful of soda dissolved in hot water; two tablespoonfuls of 
ginger, powdered ; one teaspoonful of cinnamon, pow- 
dered ; one teaspoonful of cloves, powdered. 

Cream the butter and sugar, warm the molasses slight- 
ly, and beat these together; then the beaten yolks, next 
the milk and spice, the soda, flour, and whites well 
whipped; lastly, the fruit; beat well before baking; put 



CAKE. 331 

into two broad pans well buttered, and bake in a moderate 
oven. 

Spiced Gingerbread, No. 1 (Mary Anne's). — One cupful 
of butter ; one cupful of molasses ; one cupful of brown 
sugar ; half a cupful of cold water ; one tablespoonf ul of 
ginger ; one teaspoonful of cinnamon ; a pinch of salt ; a 
pinch of grated nutmeg ; one teaspoonful of soda dissolved 
in boiling water ; flour to make a stiff batter. 

Melt the butter, warm slightly the molasses, spice, and 
sugar, and beat together ten minutes ; then put in the 
water, soda, and flour ; stir very hard, and bake in three 
small loaves ; brush over with syrup while hot, and eat 
hot. 

Spiced Gingerbread, No. 2. — One pound of flour ; one 
pound of sugar ; half a pound of butter ; five eggs, yolks 
and whites beaten separately ; three tablespoonf uls of sweet 
milk; half a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in hot water; 
one teaspoonful of cream of tartar ; one large tablespoon- 
ful of powdered ginger ; one teaspoonful of powdered 
cloves ; one teaspoonful of powdered nutmeg ; one tea- 
spoonful of powdered cinnamon. 

Cream the sugar and butter, stir in the beaten yolks, 
the milk and spice, the soda, and when all is well mixed 
put in the flour, stirring all the time ; bake in buttered 
pans. 

Spiced Gingerbread,^ o. 3. — One cupful of butter; two 
cupf uls of molasses ; two eggs very well beaten ; one ta- 
blespoonf ul of ginger ; one tablespoonf ul of cloves, cinna- 
mon, and nutmeg, mixed ; one teaspoonful of saleratus, 
1 leaped ; one cupful of sour milk ; flour enough to make a 
batter of the consistency of pound cake. 

Plain Gingerbread. — Two cupfuls of molasses ; half a 
cupful of lard ; half a cupful of butter ; one cupful of 



332 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

sour milk; two tablespoonfuls of powdered ginger; two 
teaspoonf als of soda dissolved In hot water ; flour enough 
to make a soft dough. 

Warm the molasses, lard, butter, and ginger, and beat 
them ten minutes before adding the milk, soda, and flour ; 
roll out, cut into shapes, and bake in a quick, but not very 
hot oven ; brush over with white of egg while hot. 

Composition Cake. — Two pounds of sifted flour; one 
and a quarter pounds of butter ; one and a quarter pounds 
of sugar, sifted ; two and a quarter pounds of currants, 
picked, washed, and dredged ; twelve eggs, the whites and 
yolks beaten separately to the utmost ; one gill of cognac ; 
one tumblerful of molasses ; half a teaspoonful of soda. 

Bake in round tins. 

Magdalen Cake (known in Bavaria and Saxony as Mag- 
dalenen Brod). — Half a pound of small raisins, stoned ; half 
a pound of butter ; three quarters of a pound of sugar, 
sifted ; one pound of the finest white flour, sifted ; the 
yolks of seven eggs, beaten to the utmost ; the whites of 
five eggs, beaten to the utmost. 

Cream the butter and sugar; then add the yolks and 
flour, stirring steadily all the time ; then the highly beaten 
whites of live eggs ; and, lastly, the stoned raisins ; butter 
a large, shallow tin plate, and spread the batter on it about 
an inch thick ; dot with small chocolate comfits and bake. 

Angel Cake. — One cupful of flour (the finest white), 
sifted ; one teaspoonful of cream of tartar ; one and a half 
cupfuls of the finest granulated sugar; one teaspoonful 
of vanilla or almond ; the whites only of eleven eggs, 
beaten to the utmost. 

Sift the flour once, and measure a cupful ; then mix 
thoroughly with the cream of tartar and sift four times ; 
beat the whites with a perforated spoon or wire beater to 
their utmost capacity ; add the sugar and beat again ; or, 



CAKE. 333 

rather, when the whites are light and flaky, beat in the 
sugar, and then beat again ; add the flavoring, and then 
mix in the flour lightly and quickly ; have ready a cake- 
pan lined with white paper (not greased), pour in the mixt- 
ure and bake forty minutes ; when done, loosen round the 
edge and turn out at once. Some persons have been more 
successful with this cake by mixing the sugar with the 
flour and cream of tartar, and adding all at once the beat- 
en egg. 

Sunshine Cake. — Make just as you make angel cake, 
using one teaspoonful of orange extract instead of vanilla, 
and adding the well-beaten yolks of six eggs to the beaten 
whites and sugar before adding the flour. 

Watermelon Cake (" Boston Cook-book"). — Half a cupful 
of butter ; one and a half cupf uls of fine granulated sugar, 
colored red ; the }<olks of four eggs well beaten ; one whole 
egg well beaten ; half a cupful of milk ; half a teaspoonf ul 
of mace ; a quarter of a teaspoonf ul of soda ; three quar- 
ters of a teaspoonful of cream of tartar; two and a half 
cupf uls of flour, sifted ; one cupful of raisins, seeded, quar- 
tered, and rolled in flour. 

Mix in the order given, putting the soda and cream of 
tartar into the flour, and milk and flour alternately ; bake 
in a moderate oven until the loaf shrinks from the pan. 

Raisin Cream Cake ( a Boston Cook-book "). — One scant 
cupful of butter; one and a half cupf uls of sugar, sifted ; 
three eggs, the whites and yolks beaten separately and 
well; one teaspoonful of flavoring; one saltspoonful of 
mace; half a cupful of milk; three cupf uls of pastry 
flour; one teaspoonful of cream of tartar; half a teaspoon- 
ful of soda. 

Cream the butter, add the sugar gradually, then the 
yolks of the eggs, and then the flavoring ; reserve a quar- 
ter of a cupful of flour lest the cake be too stiff, remem- 



334 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

bering that less flour is needed for a thin than for a thick 
loaf ; put the soda and cream of tartar into the remainder 
of the flour ; add the milk and flour alternately, a little at 
a time, and, lastly, the whites, which have been beaten 
stiff and dry ; bake in shallow, round pans in a moderate 
oven ; split, and spread with a thin layer of currant jelly, 
and fill with a cream made as follows : 

One cupful of raisins, stoned and chopped fine ; half a 
cupful of grated almonds ; half a cupful of grated cocoa- 
nut ; the white of one egg beaten stiff. 



PASTRY. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

1. Use none but the best materials. The finest white 
flour, sifted through a hair sieve, in every stage of the 
process of paste-making. The best fresh butter; or the 
best salt butter, washed carefully through several clear, 
cold waters, and kneaded under water to extract the salt. 
The butter should be hard and cool. The best lard, firm 
and sweet. The freshest of eggs. 

2. Handle all paste as little as possible. 

3. Make it in a cool place. 

4. Let your moulding-board be a marble slab, or a board 
of hard wood, clean, smooth, and kept for this purpose 
alone. 

The oven ought to be ready when the paste is begun. 
The heat should be perfectly steady and even ; i. e., as 
great at the bottom as at the top. 

Puff paste requires a quick oven. Paste less rich and 
filled with fruit requires a moderate oven. In all pies in 
which it is necessary to thicken the juice, a teaspoonful 
of corn-starch will be found a great improvement. When 
the lower crust is filled, strew the corn-starch evenly over 
it, wet the edge of the lower crust with a very little water, 
and when the top crust is put on, pinch the edges to- 
gether. 

All dried fruits for pies should be soaked in cold water 
a night before using them. 

Paste should be baked as soon as made. 



Plain Pie Crust. — One quart of the finest white flour, 



336 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

sifted; half a pound of butter; half a pound of lard, 
sweet, firm, and of the best quality ; one small teacupful 
of ice-water. 

Sift the flour into a deep wooden bowl, using for the 
purpose a fine hair sieve; then chop up the lard into the 
flour until it is as fine as dust; add enough ice-water to 
enable you to work all into a stiff dough, and work with 
a wooden spoon until it is necessary for you to use your 
hands ; then flour them, and knead the paste into a round 
ball with as few strokes as possible ; lay this ball on the 
floured moulding-board, and roll it out into a thin sheet ; 
always roll one way — from you — and with a light, steady 
stroke ; when thin enough, stick little bits of butter, with 
a knife, evenly and closely all: over the sheet ; roll up the 
paste then into a compact roll, flatten with your rolling- 
pin, and roll out again as thin as before ; repeat this, bast- 
ing with butter, and flouring lightly each time until the 
butter is used up and the paste smooth and even ; then 
roll up and lay in a very cold place for fifteen minutes ; 
in hot weather it may safely be left on the ice for an hour ; 
then roll out several times, and cut into the shape you re- 
quire; lay the paste on buttered pie-plates, fit it neatly, 
cut off the edges, put in the fruit, put on the paste lid, 
and press down the edges firmly to prevent the escape of 
the juice ; or put a paste lattice-work over the fruit; put 
all the scraps of paste together, and roll out into anoth- 
er sheet, Bake pastry in a moderate oven to a light 
brown. 

Leaf Paste {Cuisiniere Bourgeoise). — One quart of the 
finest white flour passed through a hair sieve ; a pinch of 
salt ; yolks of two eggs ; a piece of fresh butter the size of 
a chestnut ; a glass of cold water. 

Put the sifted flour on your moulding-board, make a 
hole in the middle of the heap, and pour in the yolks, 
well beaten, a pinch of salt, a small piece of butter, and 
enough water to enable you to work the whole together ; 



PASTKY. 337 

do this quickly, handling it as little as possible ; form it 
into a ball, cover it with a clean cloth, and leave it for 
twenty minutes ; then dust the moulding-board with flour, 
and roll out the paste ; it should be longer than it is wide ; 
then drain, and roll out into one sheet (between two 
floured linen cloths) eighteen and a half ounces of the 
finest fresh butter ; place this on one half of the sheet of 
paste, and fold the paste over it, so as to sandwich the 
butter; the paste and the butter should be of precisely 
the same consistency, so that they may be handled, rolled, 
and moulded smoothly ; roll the paste and butter very 
carefully, smoothly, and thinly ; then fold again in three, 
then roll up into a roll, and roll out again into a thin sheet ; 
repeat this — at intervals of a quarter of an hour — six times 
in summer and seven in winter, dusting both moulding- 
board and paste lightly each time with sifted flour; it will 
then be ready, and at the expiration of five minutes may 
be baked ; the oven should be ready beforehand, as this 
leaf paste is easily spoiled by waiting. This is really the 
nicest paste for pies and tarts. 

Galette Italienne. — Make as above, roll out very thin, 
cut into rounds with a tumbler, prick all over with a fork, 
brush lightly with beaten white of egg, lay on buttered 
paper, and bake in a quick oven. 

Remove from the paper, salt lightly, and serve cold. 
Delicious with tea. 

Transparent Leaf Paste. — One pound of finest white 
flour, sifted through a hair sieve; one pound of fresh 
butter; yolk of one egg, whipped very light. 

Melt the butter in a pot set within a vessel, set in 
another of boiling water, and stir the butter gently all the 
time ; then skim, and when almost cold beat up the butter 
a little with the whipped egg; when these are thoroughly 
mixed, work the flour, roll out twice, dusting lightly each 
time with flour before you fold it, then let it stand five 

15 



338 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

minutes folded in a cold place, and roll out for tartlets, 
pates, or galette. Bake at once. 

French Puff Paste. — One pound of finest white flour, 
sifted through a hair sieve ; three quarters of a pound 
of fresh butter; yolk of one egg, well beaten; ice-water 
enough to enable you to roll out the paste. 

Chop half the butter into the flour; stir the beaten egg 
into half a cupful of ice- water, and work the flour into a 
stiff dough ; roll out thin, baste with one third the remain- 
ing butter, fold closely, roll out again, and so on, until the 
butter is used up; roll out very thin, and set the last roll 
in a very cold place ten or fifteen minutes before using 
the crust. Wash with beaten egg while hot. 

Plain Raised Pie Crust— One pound of flour ; three 
quarters of a pound' of butter ; one teaspoonf ul of soda ; 
two teaspoonf uls of cream of tartar ; ice-water to make a 
stiff dough. 

Sift the flour through a hair sieve, then sift the soda 
and cream of tartar into the flour, then pass the flour so 
mixed three times through a hair sieve ; then chop the 
butter through the flour very evenly and freely ; then 
work with ice-water to a stiff dough, roll into a thin sheet, 
baste with one third the remaining butter, fold up closely 
into a long roll, flatten, and reroll ; then beat again ; do 
this three times, until the butter is gone. Then roll out 
the crust. 

Puff Paste. — One pound of finest white flour, sifted 
through a hair sieve ; one pound of fresh butter ; a quarter 
of a pound of finest white flour, sifted as above, and kept 
apart to dust with. 

Rub one of the quarters of butter into the pound of 
flour, and mix it with as much cold water as will 
moisten the paste, and make it easy to work ; roll this 
dough out on the paste-board three times, each time adding 



PASTRY. 339 

to the rolled-out sheet a quarter of the pound of butter, 
dotting it over in spots, and then dusting it with the sieve 
from the reserved flour ; when this is done, set the lump 
of dough on one side of the board, cut off from it enough 
for one pie, roll this out very thin, and dust it with flour ; 
then fold it up and roll it out again, and then roll it the 
proper thickness for your crust; the rolling-up and dust- 
ing is to make it flak} 7 . Handle all paste as little as pos- 
sible. 

Plain Apple Pie. — Pare, core, and slice ripe, tart win- 
ter apples; line a deep dish with fine puff paste; put in 
a layer of fruit, sprinkle white or light-brown sugar on it, 
scatter half a dozen cloves upon this, put in another layer 
of apples, and so on until the dish is well filled ; cover 
with crust, and bake. 

Mich Apple Pie. — One dozen of fine, ripe, tart apples, 
peeled, cored, and grated; one pound of white sugar; 
half a pound of butter ; six eggs, whites and yolks sepa- 
rately; one lemon, juice and grated peel; a pinch of 
nutmeg. 

Cream the butter and sugar, stir in the beaten yolks, 
then the lemon, nutmeg, and apple, lastly the beaten 
whites ; bake in open shell of puff paste, with crossbars 
of the same on the top. 

Green Apple Pie. — Pare, core, and slice green apples, 
and stew until very soft, with a little grated lemon and 
juice ; sweeten to taste, press through a sieve, stir in a very 
little nutmeg, and a tablespoonful of butter for each pie ; 
bake in open shells of puff paste, with crossbars of the 
same over the top. 

Apple Meringue Pie. — Pare, core, slice, and stew ripe, 
juicy apples ; stew them with a little lemon peel, enough 
to flavor them nicely ; add sugar to taste, and a pinch of 



340 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

grated nutmeg; strain through a sieve, and when cold fill 
open crusts of paste, and bake ; then cover each pie with 
a thick meringue, made by whipping up the whites of 
three eggs for each pie, allowing a tablespoonful of sugar 
for each egg ; flour to taste. The meringue should be 
very stiff; place in the oven until the meringue is well set. 
Eat cold. 

Thanksgiving Apple Pie. — Six apples, peeled, cored, 
stewed, and strained ; six ounces of loaf sugar ; six ounces 
of butter ; six eggs beaten light, whites and yolks sepa- 
rately ; the juice of two lemons, and the peel of one ; one 
wineglassful of rose water. - 

Cream the butter and sugar, stir in the beaten yolks, then 
the lemon, rose water, and stewed apples; lastly, beat in 
the whites very lightly ; then fill your paste, and bake. 

Apple Custard Pie. — Three cupfuls of stewed apple; 
nearly one cupful of white sugar; six eggs beaten light; 
one quart of rich milk. 

Stew the apple and let it cool ; beat the eggs' light, and 
mix the yolks well with the apple, seasoning it with nut- 
meg only ; then stir in gradually the milk, beating as you 
go on ; lastly, add the whites ; bake in crust with a lattice- 
work of paste on the top. 

Madison Apple Pie. — Line a deep pie-dish with rich puff 
paste ; slice the apples, previously pared and cored, into 
the pie-dish, heaping it quite full ; bake it until the ap- 
ples are done, and the pie brown ; then take off the upper 
crust, lay it upside down on a napkin, and season the pie 
by stirring into it cream and sugar flavored with rose, cin- 
namon, or allspice, according to taste ; replace the cover, 
and serve hot. 

Pineapple Pie. — One large pineapple, pared and grat- 
ed ; half a pound of fresh butter; half a pound of sugar; 



PASTRY. 341 

one wineglassful of brandy; one tablespoonful of rose wa- 
ter ; a little nutmeg, grated. 

Mix all together with the juice and pulp of the pine- 
apple, adding a little grated bread ; bake ten minutes in a 
crust. 

Apple Mince-meat. — Two pounds of tart apples, pared, 
cored, and chopped ; three quarters of a pound of beef 
suet, cleared from strings and powdered ; one pound of 
currants, well picked, washed, and dredged ; half a pound 
of raisins, seeded and chopped ; half a pound of Sultana 
raisins, seeded and chopped ; a quarter of a pound of cit- 
ron, shredded fine ; the juice and grated rind of one large 
lemon ; two pounds of brown sugar ; half a pint of the best 
white brandy ; one glassful of sherry or Madeira ; one tea- 
spoonful of powdered cloves; one teaspoonful of pow- 
dered mace ; one tablespoonful of powdered cinnamon ; 
one tablespoonful of powdered allspice ; two teaspoonfuls 
of fine salt. 

Pack down in a stone jar with a close cover^ and keep 
in a cold place. 

Pan Dowdy. — Line the sides of a deep baking-pan with 
common pie crust ; fill it with apples, pared, cored, and 
quartered, and add two cupfuls of sugar, a teaspoonful of 
powdered cinnamon, a cupful of cider, and a little water; 
cover it with rather a thick crust; bake it slowly four 
hours ; then break in the crust, and mix it well with the 
apples; eat with cream. 

Imitation Apple Pie. — One cupful of bread crumbs ; 
one cupful of sugar; one cupful of hot water; enough 
tartaric acid or lemon juice to make it a little sour. 

Orange Cream Pie. — Peel of one orange boiled in a 
pint of water ; half a pound of loaf sugar boiled with the 
orange peel ; the juice of three oranges, well strained and 



342 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

added to the above ; the yolks of five eggs beaten very 
light. 

When yon have added the orange juice to the boiled 
peel and sugar, take out the peel and set the syrup aside 
to cool; when cold stir in the beaten eggs, and put the 
bowl containing the whole into a kettle of boiling water 
on the fire; stir all the time and until it begins to be very 
thick; then take from the fire, pour into open shells of 
puff paste, and bake. This is a delicious pie. 

Lemon Cream Pie. — One teacupf ul of powdered sugar ; 
one tablespoonf ul of fresh butter ; one egg ; the juice and 
grated rind of one lemon ; one-teacupf ul of boiling water ; 
one tablespoonful of corn-starch dissolved in cold water. 

Stir the corn-starch into the water, cream the butter and 
sugar, and pour over, them the hot mixture; when quite 
cold add the juice and grated rind of the lemon, and the 
beaten egg; bake in open shells. 

Custard Pie. — Four eggs well beaten ; one quart of 
milk; four tablespoonfuls of white sugar; flavoring to 
taste. 

Beat the yolks and sugar light, and mix with the milk ; 
flavor, whip in the beaten whites, mix well, and pour into 
shells ; bake as cup custard or custard pudding. 

Cream Pie. — Two pints of milk ; one pint of cream ; 
six eggs; six tablespoonfuls of white sugar; two table- 
spoonfuls of corn-starch ; flavoring to taste. 

Boil the cream and milk as usual in a farina kettle, stir 
in the corn-starch wet in cold water, and boil one minute ; 
when nearly cold stir in the sugar, the yolks of all the 
eggs, and the whipped whites of two, also the flavoring; 
when the cream is smooth pour into puff-paste shells, and 
bake ; whip the remaining whites with powdered sugar to 
the stiffest possible froth ; flavor differently from the 
cream ; then draw the pies to the edge of the oven, put 



PASTRY. 343 

on the meringue quickly, and replace in the oven to set; 
do this rapidly ; eat cold. 

Chocolate Cream Pie, No. 1. — One quart of milk or sweet 
cream ; quarter of a cake of the finest vanilla chocolate, 
grated ; six eggs, yolks of all, and whites of three ; one 
pint of boiling water; half a cupful of white sugar; two 
cofleespoon fuls of vanilla. 

Dissolve the chocolate in a very little milk, stir into«the 
boiling water, and boil three minutes; when nearly cold 
beat up with this the yolks of all the eggs and the whites 
of three; stir this mixture into the milk, flavor, and pour 
into shells of puff paste ; whip the remaining whites into 
a stiff froth with powdered sugar, and when the cream is 
set spread this meringue over it, and place for a moment 
in the oven. 

Chocolate Cream Pie, No. 2. — Half a cake of the finest 
vanilla chocolate, grated ; four eggs, yolks and whites well 
beaten ; one tablespoonf ul of corn-starch dissolved in cold 
water ; three tablespoonfuls of rich milk ; four tablespoon- 
fuls of powdered sugar ; one teaspoonful of vanilla ; half 
a teaspoonful of bitter almonds, roasted and ground to 
powder; one teaspoonful of fresh butter, melted. 

Grate the chocolate to a fine powder, rub it smooth in 
the milk, heat to boiling over the fire, and stir in the corn- 
starch wet with cold water ; stir five minutes until well 
thickened, stirring in, also, the melted butter; remove 
from the fire, and pour into a bowl ; beat all the yolks 
and the whites of two eggs well with the sugar, and whip 
into the chocolate mixture ; when it is almost cold add, 
also, the flavoring, and beat all together until light and 
smooth ; bake in open shells of pastry ; beat up the whites 
of two eggs with two tablespoonfuls of sugar to a stiff 
meringue, flavor very delicately with bitter almond, and 
spread over the pies. 



344 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Cocoanut Cream Pie. — One pound of cocoanut, grated ; 
half a pound of powdered sugar ; one quart of half milk, 
half cream ; one teaspoonful of bitter almonds, roasted and 
ground ; two teaspoon fuls of rose water. 

Boil the milk and cream in a farina kettle ; take it from 
the fire; whip in gradually the beaten eggs; when cool, 
but not cold, season, whip in the cocoanut, and pour into 
paste shells ; bake twenty minutes. 

> 

Cocoanut Pie, E"o. 1. — Half a pound of grated cocoanut ; 
half a pound of fresh butter ; half a pound of powdered 
sugar; one wineglassful of brandy; four eggs, whites and 
yolks beaten separately to the utmost ; two teaspoonfuls of 
lemon juice ; two teaspoonfuls of flavoring to taste. 

Rub the butter and sugar to a smooth cream ; whip in 
the brandy and lemon juice ; stir in the beaten yolks ; 
lastly, the cocoanut alternately with the whites ; bake in 
open shells of the finest puff paste. 

Cocoanut Pie, No. 2. — Half a pound of grated cocoanut ; 
three quarters of a pound of white sugar, powdered ; six 
ounces of butter ; five eggs, whites only ; two tablespoon- 
f uls of rose water ; one teaspoonful of nutmeg, grated ; 
one wineglassful of pale sherry. 

Cream the butter and sugar ; when well mixed beat very 
light with the w T ine and rose water; whip in the cocoanut 
as lightly as possible, finally the stiffened whites of eggs; 
bake in open shells of the lightest possible puff paste. 

Bdkewell Pie. — Four ounces of melted butter; four 
ounces of powdered sugar ; the yolks of six eggs beaten 
light ; whites of four beaten to the utmost degree of stiff- 
ness ; one tablespoonful of ratifia. 

Beat all well together, and bake in open shells of puff 
paste which have previously been spread an inch thick 
with preserve ; pour the Bakewell over the preserve, and 
bake at once. {Delicious.) 



PASTRY. 345 

Fruit Pie as made in Austria. — Take a large, shallow 
pie-dish — the larger the better; cover it with plain fam- 
ily pie crust ; cut with your jagging-iron some long, thin 
strips of paste, and with them make a sparse lattice- 
work over the plate ; do this before putting in the fruit ; 
then fill the interstices with fresh fruit ; dust lightly with 
sugar, and bake ; then dust with sugar again ; serve cold. 
This is a delicious pie. Large tart plums, stoned and cut 
in half, are excellent for this pie ; so are apricots, stoned 
and halved ; but any fruit is adapted for it. 

Lemon Pie,No. 1. — Grated rind of a lemon and all the 
juice ; the yolks of four eggs, well beaten ; one cupful of 
sugar, sifted ; one cupful of cream ; one tablespoonful of 
flour, sifted. 

Beat the yolks first ; then add the sugar, cream, flour, 
rind, and juice in order ; beat long and well, and bake in 
an open crust; while baking beat the whites stiff with 
four tablespoon fuls of sifted white sugar ; when the pie 
is baked, spread the whites on lightly and set in the oven 
to brown. The above quantity is enough for two small 
pies. Eat cold. 

Lemon Pie, 'No. 2. — Half a pound of butter ; one pound 
of sugar ; six eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately ; 
the juice of one lemon ; grated rind of two ; one nutmeg, 
grated ; half a glassful of brandy. 

Cream the butter and sugar; beat in the yolks, lemon, 
spice, and brandy, the yolks last of all ; bake in open crusts 
of pie paste ; eat cold. 

Mince-meat, Philadelphia. — One pound of fresh beef, 
freed from fat and fibre, and chopped fine ; two pounds 
of suet, freed from strings, and powdered ; one and a quar- 
ter pounds of currants, carefully washed, dried, and picked 
over ; one and a quarter pounds, also, of Sultana raisins, 
seeded and chopped ; three quarters of a pound of sugar ; 

15* 



346 THE UNKIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

quarter of an ounce of powdered cloves; quarter of an 
ounce of powdered mace ; one nutmeg, grated ; quarter of 
a pint of the finest rose water ; quarter of a pint of old 
Madeira or pale sherry ; the rind of two lemons, grated ; 
quarter of a pound of candied orange peel, shredded fine ; 
two teaspoonfuls of salt. 

Moisten the whole with cider. 

Mince-meat (Beeton). — Three pounds of snet, shredded 
and chopped fine; four pounds of Sultana raisins, seeded 
and chopped ; four pounds of currants, carefully washed, 
dried, and picked over ; fifty pippin apples, peeled, cored, 
and chopped fine ; one fresh neat's tongue, boiled and chop- 
ped fine ;• half an ounce of powdered cloves ; half an ounce 
of powdered mace ; half an ounce of powdered nutmeg ; 
one and a half pounds of sugar ; one pint of the finest 
brandy ; one pint of the finest white wine ; the juice of 
one orange and of one lemon ; quarter of a pound of citron. 

Stir all together, and put it away in a stone pot ; when 
the pies are made, stir up the whole of the mince-meat, 
take from it as much as you will require for the baking, 
taste it, and if not flavored enough add a little wine and 
the juice of an orange. 

Mock Mince -meat — ("Common -Sense in the House- 
hold"). — Six soda crackers, rolled fine ; two cupfuls of cold 
water ; one cupful of molasses ; one cupful of brown sug- 
ar; one cupful of sour cider; one and a half cupfuls of 
melted butter; one cupful of raisins, seeded and chopped; 
one cupful of currants; two eggs beaten light; one table- 
spoonful of cinnamon and allspice, mixed; one teaspoon- 
f ul of nutmeg ; one tea-spoonful of cloves ; one teaspoon- 
f ul of salt ; one teaspoonf ul of black pepper ; one wine- 
glassful of brandy. 

Mince Pie. — Three quarters of a pound of tenderloin 
of beef and three quarters of a pound of beefsteak, both 



PASTRY. 347 

chopped very fine ; one and a half pounds of suet chopped 
to a powder ; three pounds of chopped apples ; two pounds 
of currants, picked and washed; two pounds of Sultana 
raisins, seeded; one and a half pounds of brown sugar; 
half a cupful of vinegar; one pint of brandy; two glass- 
fuls of Madeira or sherry; one teaspoonful of mace; one 
teaspoonful of cinnamon ; one teaspoonful of cloves; one 
teaspoonful of salt. 

Edinburgh Mince Pie. — Two pounds of beef chopped 
fine; two pounds of beef suet, freed from strings and 
chopped to powder'; four and a half pounds of chopped 
apples; one pound of currants, picked and dredged; two 
and a half pounds of raisins, seeded; one and a quarter 
pounds of brown sugar ; three pints of cider ; one pint of 
molasses; half a cupful of vinegar; one quart of the best 
brandy; three glassfuls of sherry wine; one tablespoonful 
of fine salt; one and a half tablespoonfuls each of cloves, 
mace, and cinnamon. 

Missionary Pie. — One pound of sugar, powdered ; three 
quarters of a pound of fresh butter creamed with the su- 
gar ; one grated cocoanut; ten eggs, the whites and yolks 
beaten separately; one quart of milk; three slices of stale 
baker's bread, crumbled and boiled with the milk. 

Mix the boiled milk and bread well with the sugar and 
butter, and divide the mixture into two equal parts ; add 
the beaten yolks to one part and the grated cocoanut and 
beaten whites to another ; flavor the white pies with a 
teaspoonful of brandy and the same quantity of rose water, 
and the yellow with the juice and grated rind of a lemon 
and an orange ; bake in open shells of puff paste, with 
puffed edges; 

Peach Pie. — If made of ripe peaches, proceed precisely 
as for "Austrian Fruit Pie," substituting for the plums 
ripe peaches, pared, quartered, and sugared. 



348 THE UNEIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Peach Pie of Preserved Peaches. — Fill open shells of 
fine puff paste with preserved peaches, and bake in a quick 
oven. 

Peach Pie with Meringue. — Proceed as above, but cover 
the peaches with a stiff meringue an inch thick, flavored 
with bitter almond. 

Peach Pie with Canned Peaches. — Line a deep dish 
with good puff paste ; put in a layer of canned peaches, 
sugar lightly, and proceed in this way until the dish is 
full ; cover with paste and bake ; or omit the paste cover, 
and when just baked put on a thick meringue, and put 
back in the oven until set. 

Dried-Peach Pie.— One quart of stewed dried peaches, 
stewed with a little lemon peel, sweetened to taste, strained 
through a sieve, and enriched by a little corn-starch mixed 
with cold water. 

Fill open crusts of paste, cover with crossbars of paste, 
and bake. This is the best of all peach pies. 

Cherry Pie, "No. 1. — Stone fine, ripe cherries, line a 
dish with good pie crust, fill with cherries, sugaring them 
well, cover with crust, and bake. 

Cherry Pie, No. 2. — Proceed as above, but bake in 
open shells as for " Austrian Fruit Pie," and pour over the 
cherries, after they are sugared, a teacupf ul of cherry juice. 

Sweet- Potato Pie. — Two pounds of sweet potatoes, 
boiled and mashed fine ; one pound of butter beaten to a 
cream ; one pound of sugar creamed with the butter; five 
eggs beaten light ; one wineglassf ul of wine ; one wine- 
glassful of brandy; one wineglassf ul of rose water; half a 
pint of cream ; two teaspoonf uls of spice. 

Beat the boiled potatoes by degrees into the butter and 



PASTRY. 349 

sugar, then add the eggs and the other ingredients in or- 
der ; fill the open puff shells with the mixture, and bake 
in a quick oven. The above quantity will make seven 
puddingplatefuls. 

Yam Pie. — One pound of boiled and grated yam ; half 
a pound of butter; half a pound of sugar creamed with 
the butter; one wineglassful of sherry; one wineglassful 
of rose water; half a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg; six 
eggs beaten light. 

Mix the grated yam with the creamed butter and sugar, 
and add the other ingredients in order; if the mixture 
should not be sufficiently liquid, add a little cream ; bake 
in an open crust of puff paste, w T ith a rolled border. 

Pickering Squash Pie. — One quart of boiled milk; 
three pints of squash, stewed and strained; one pound of 
butter and one and a quarter pounds of sifted sugar beat- 
en to a cream; one nutmeg, grated; four tablespoonfuls 
of rose water; four eggs, the whites and yolks beaten sep- 
arately; seven sailor's biscuits, pounded fine. 

Proceed precisely as for "Yam Pie," only scalding the bis- 
cuits with milk, and adding the beaten eggs to the creamed 
butter and sugar; then the other ingredients in order; 
bake in open shells of puff paste, with thick edges. 

Connecticut Pumpkin Pie, No. 1. — One quart of milk; 
one pint of stewed and strained pumpkin ; two cupfuls of 
powdered sugar ; four eggs, well beaten ; one teaspoonful 
of salt ; flavoring to taste, either ginger, mace, cinnamon, 
or grated lemon peel. 

Stir the flavoring well into the pumpkin, and, having 
the milk heated to the boiling-point in a pitcher placed in 
a kettle of boiling water, pour it gradually into the pump- 
kin ; return the mixture to the pitcher in the kettle, have 
the eggs and sugar well beaten, and put a small portion of 
the hot pumpkin in and heat it; add more until the eggs 



350 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

are cooked ; put it again into the pitcher, stir and pour it 
into the pie-plates, and bake it immediately with a lower 
crust only. 

Pumpkin Pie, ~No. 2.— One quart of pumpkin, stewed 
and strained; one quart of milk; one cupful of sugar; 
seven eggs, the whites and yolks beaten separately; one 
teaspoonf nl of ginger ; one teaspoonful of mace ; one tea- 
spoonful of cinnamon. 

Beat all well together, and bake in crust without a cover. 

Pumpkin Pie, No. 3. — One quart of pumpkin, stewed 
and strained; nine eggs, whites and yolks beaten separate- 
ly; two quarts of milk; one teaspoonful of mace; one 
teaspoonful of cinnamon; one teaspoonful of nutmeg; 
one and a half cupfuls of the best light-brown sugar. 

Beat all well together, and bake in crust without a cover. 

Raisin Pie. — One cupful of crackers, rolled fine; one 
cupful of cold water; the juice and rind of one lemon; 
one cupful of raisins, stoned and chopped fine ; one cupful 
of sugar. 

Blend all thoroughly together, and add one egg well 
beaten; bake with a thin upper and under crust; wash 
the top crust with beaten white of egg ; bake in a moder- 
ate oven. 

Orange Pie. — One large orange, the juice, and half the 
grated rind; half a lemon, the juice, and the grated peel ; 
three eggs ; three quarters of a cupful of white sugar ; 
two tablespoonf uls of fresh butter ; nutmeg to taste. 

Cream the butter and sugar, beating in the orange and 
lemon until light, add the beaten yolks, fill two pastry 
shells, and bake ; beat the whites very light with two ta- 
blespoonfuls of powdered sugar, and when the pies are 
done spread it over them, returning to the oven for a few 
minutes. 



PASTRY. 351 

Cherry Tart of Preserved Cherries. — Proceed as for 
other pies. 

Strawberry Tart. — Pick over the strawberries carefully, 
and arrange them in layers in a deep puff crust, sprin- 
kling each layer thickly with sugar; fill very full, pour 
in a teacupful of strawberry juice, cover with crust, and 
bake. 

Cream Strawberry Tart. — Proceed as above, putting on 
a very thick top crust with a slit in the top ; when the pie 
is done, pour in through the slit in the top, by means of 
a small funnel, the following mixture : 

One small cupful of milk and cream, half and half, 
heated to boiling; the whites of two eggs beaten light and 
stirred into the boiling milk; one tablespoonful of white 
sugar; half a teaspoonful of corn-starch wet in cold milk. 

Boil all together three minutes, stirring until quite 
smooth; set aside to cool before pouring into the tart; 
when you have poured in the cream set the tart aside to 
cool, and serve with powdered sugar sifted over the top. 

Raspberry Pie or Tart. — Make just as you do " Straw- 
berry Tart." 

Cream Raspberry Pie or Tart. — Make as "Cream 
Strawberry Tart." 

Blackberry and Huckleberry Pie or Tart. — Proceed as 
for " Strawberry Tart," sweetening to taste. 

Currant Pie. — Prepare a good family pie crust, slight- 
ly sweetened ; string and pick over the currants with ex- 
treme care, and sweeten abundantly with powdered sugar; 
bake in open shell of pie crust, with crossbars of paste 
over the top ; serve cold, with powdered sugar sprinkled 
over it. 



352 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Currant-and-Baspberry Tart. — Three cupfuls of cur- 
rants ; one cupful of raspberries. 

Mix well together, sweeten, and then bake in a deep 
pie-dish lined with puff paste, and with paste cover ; eat 
cold, with powdered sugar if necessary. 

Green- Gooseberry Tart — Pick, top, and tail the goose- 
berries; stew slowly in a porcelain kettle, with just 
enough water to keep them from burning, until they 
break; then sweeten thoroughly, and set aside to cool; 
when cold, put into a deep pastry shell of puff paste, cov- 
er with a top crust of puff paste, and bake ; brush all over 
with beaten egg while hot, and set back in the oven to 
glaze. 

Bipe- Gooseberry Tart. — Pick, top, and tail the goose- 
berries, and bake in a deep shell of puff paste, strewing 
among them as much sugar as they need ; cover with puff 
paste, and bake. 

Bijpe-Plum Pie. — Proceed as for "Austrian Fruit Pie," 
using fine, large plums. 

Preserved-Plum Pie. — Fill an open, shallow shell of 
puff paste with preserved green gages ; cover with cross- 
bars of paste, and bake. 

Plum Tart. — Stone the plums, put into a deep shell of 
puff paste, scatter sugar over them (to taste), pour in half 
a cupful of plum juice, cover with paste, and bake. 

Damson Tart. — Proceed precisely as above, sweetening 
abundantly. 

Cranberry Pie. — Wash and pick over the cranberries, 
and stew in a porcelain saucepan with a very little water 
until they are very tender and burst ; then press through 



PASTRY. 353 

a strainer, sweeten to taste, and bake in open shells of puff 
paste with crossbars of pastry on the top. 

Rhubarb Pie. — Skin the stalks with care, cut into small 
pieces, put into a saucepan with very little water, and stew 
slowly until soft ; sweeten while hot, pour into freshly 
baked shells, and serve hot or cold, as you like. 

Or, you may add a small lump of butter and a well- 
beaten egg to the hot -sweetened rhubarb, and bake in 
pastry. 

Rhubarb Tart. — Peel and cut the stalks into small 
pieces, and arrange in deep shells of puff paste, sugaring 
them well, and mixing in seeded raisins; cover with puff 
paste, and bake nearly three quarters of an hour; brush 
with egg while hot, and return to the oven to glaze ; eat 
cold. 



PUDDINGS. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

Puddings arc of two kinds — boiled and baked. Boiled 
puddings should be put into strong bags of coarse linen, 
well floured inside. These bags should be neatly and 
firmly sewed, and carefully washed (by themselves) every 
time they are used. , They should always be kept apart 
from all other household linen, and tightly closed in a tin 
box lest they should contract some odor. 



Amber Pudding, — Mix well together the yolks of three 
or four eggs, a quarter of a pound of lump sugar, a little 
grated nutmeg, and the finely grated rind of one small 
orange. The eggs should, of course, be well beaten, whites 
and yolks separately; melt a quarter of a pound of but- 
ter, and mix thoroughly with the eggs, etc. ; have ready 
a deep pie-dish lined with puff paste, pour in the mixture, 
and bake half an hour. It is best cold. 

Venus Pudding. — Take a quart mould, butter it well, 
and ornament it with candied ginger ; make a rich cus- 
tard with the yolks of twelve and the whites of six eggs, 
a pint of cream, and loaf sugar to taste ; then dissolve one 
ounce of gelatine in sufficient milk to fill up the mould; 
when cold add a glassful of rum or sherry; flavor with 
bitter almond ; when well mixed pour into the mould, 
and set it on the ice to set. The longer it is on the ice 
the better. 



PUDDINGS. 355 

Fine Apple Pudding. — Peel and core some fine apples, 
place them in a baking-dish, and pot in the centre of each 
one a spoonful of cherry or any other preserve ; beat ten 
yolks of eggs with a pound of sugar, a pint of cream, 
the grated rind of two oranges, and some cinnamon ; pour 
this over the apples, and let it bake in a moderate oven. 
This is served without sauce. 

Simple Apple Padding. — Beat up six eggs with one 
full cup of powdered sugar and a little cardamom ; peel, 
core, and fill the centre of your apples with preserves ; 
pour a quart of sweet cream over this, and let it bake. 

Apple Snow. — Take one dozen large apples, bake and 
peel them, and pass them through a colander ; add three 
handfuls of grated black bread, three ounces of sugar, a 
spoonful of cinnamon or cardamom, beat the whites of 
eighteen eggs to a snow, stir in the apples, put it in a 
warm buttered baking -dish, and bake it in a moderate 
oven half an hour. 



Chocolate Pudding.— -Ten eggs ; one loaf of stale bread, 
grated ; six ounces of chocolate, grated ; half of a vanilla 
bean ; sugar to taste ; a pinch of cinnamon. 

Beat all this together with a quart of sour cream, bake 
it in the oven, and serve with sweet-cream sauce. 

Tansy Pudding. — Crumbs of a small loaf of baiter's 
bread soaked in a pint of milk ; three eggs, well beaten ; a 
pinch of salt ; one tablespoonf ul of white sugar ; one table- 
spoonful of melted butter ; as many fresh tansy leaves as 
will cover the palm of the hand, chopped fine, and stirred 
in last of all. 

Steam or boil for two hours, and eat with a rich, hot, 
sweet sauce, flavored with lemon. 

Apple Charlotte. — Pare and core the apples; toast some 



356 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

bread in butter ; then put this in a dish with sugar, cin- 
namon, lemon peel, raisins, and a little wine; line a mould 
with slices of bread, and pour this in and bake. 

Layer Apple Pudding. — Make a paste of beef snet, 
chopped fine, and the finest sifted flour, with water enough 
to enable you to mould it into a paste, and a tiny pinch of 
salt ; mix well and smoothly, and roll out into a smooth 
paste ; line with this a well-buttered tin ; put in a layer of 
pared, cored, and sliced apples, a little lemon, and brown 
sugar ; then a thin layer of paste, then another of apples 
prepared as before, and repeat these layers until the dish 
is full ; cover in with paste, and boil for nearly three 
hours. A little butter and nutmeg mixed with the apples 
is an improvement to this excellent pudding. 

Apple-Custard Pudding. — Line a buttered pudding- 
dish with slices of stale sponge cake or light white bread ; 
then make a filling as follows : One pint of sweet milk, 
one pint of smooth apple sauce well seasoned, three eggs 
well beaten, and enough cinnamon to flavor. This quan- 
tity will make two small puddings. 

Dried- Peach Pudding. — One pint of dried bread 
crumbs softened with boiling water ; one spoonful of 
melted butter stirred in ; two eggs, well beaten ; one pint 
of dried peaches stewed soft. 

Sweeten to taste, flavor with a little orange peel, put 
into a buttered pudding-dish, and bake half an hour. 

Cream Pudding with Cherries. — A quarter of a pound 
each of fine flour, sugar, and butter, mixed with a quart of 
warm milk. 

Boil to the consistency of custard ; add six eggs, yolks and 
whites having been beaten separately to the utmost ; stir 
in a cupful of preserved cherries, pour into a deep pudding- 
dish, set in a pan of water, and bake in the oven one hour. 



PUDDINGS. 357 

Prince Albert Padding. — Half a pound of fresh butter ; 
cream it, and mix half a pound of pulverized sugar by de- 
grees ; when thoroughly mixed, add the yolks of five eggs 
and the whites beaten to a snow ; then stir in half a pound 
of finely sifted flour, half a pound of stoned raisins, and a 
suspicion of lemon peel or grated nutmeg ; boil this pudding 
in a well-buttered mould or floured pudding-cloth ; let it 
cook three hours ; serve with punch, wine, or fruit sauce, 
as preferred. 

Apple Pudding, Baked. — Take the crumbs of three 
fresh French rolls, soak in sweet milk, squeeze out the 
milk, and put the bread in a saucepan ; add half a pound 
of butter; let it cook; when cold stir in twelve eggs, 
grease a plate, and put in this paste ; pare your apples, 
and let them simmer gently a few minutes in butter; sprin- 
kle with powdered cinnamon ; rub some sugar over the 
rind of a lemon, and sprinkle it over the apples; make an- 
other layer of bread over the apples, bake an hour, and 
serve with sweet cream. 

Br ead-and- Butter Pudding (Courlande receipt). — Take 
thin slices of bread and spread them thickly with butter; 
butter a baking-dish well, place in the bottom a layer of 
bread, sprinkle with cinnamon, sugar, cover thickly with 
currants, stoned, and proceed with alternate layers of 
bread and raisins, etc., until the dish is quite full ; then 
in nine eggs stir a quart of cream, and pour it over the 
pudding ; let it soak for a quarter of an hour before bak- 
ing, and serve with fruit or cream sauce. 

Lemon Bubbert (Courlande receipt). — Boil one large 
lemon till it is tender enough for a straw to pierce, squeeze 
out the juice, grate the rind in a dish, and stir till it be- 
comes of the consistency of butter ; then add five ounces 
of sugar, the yolks of eight eggs, and a pinch of carda- 
mom, and stir for an hour ; beat the whites of the ei^ht 



358 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

eggs to a stiff froth, add quickly to the rest of the ingre- 
dients, pour this into a buttered form, and cook it three 
quarters of an hour in a moderate oven. This can be 
eaten with wine sauce or without, as preferred. 

Boiled Pudding (Livonian receipt). — In a quart of 
sweet milk stir the yolks of twelve eggs, and twelve 
spoonfuls of flour; beat till thoroughly mixed ; then add 
a handful of almonds, several bitter ones (blanched), a 
cupful of currants, a quarter of a pound of butter, sugar 
to sweeten well, and sprinkle with cinnamon ; tie up 
in a pudding-cloth previously soaked in butter and well 
sprinkled with bread crumbs, and cook steadily for two 
hours. 

Cherry Pudding (Keceipt of Riga). — Cook in a pint 
of cream a quarter of a pound of butter until thick; let 
it cool ; when cold add eight eggs, a pinch of cinnamon, 
several cloves, a pound of cherries, lemon peel, and sugar 
to sweeten well ; grate the crust from four French rolls, 
which cut into dice ; pour over these enough milk to wet 
through, and when soaked squeeze through a towel ; mix 
this bread thoroughly with the foregoing ingredients, add 
the whites of the eight eggs beaten to a stiff froth, pour in 
a buttered mould strewed with bread crumbs, and cook for 
an hour in an even oven. 

Sauce. — Cook a pound of stoned cherries till soft ; add 
a glassful and a half of red wine, a little lemon juice, cloves, 
some grated crackers, and sugar to sweeten well ; pour 
over the pudding, and serve hot. 

George Pudding.— Boil very tender a handful of whole 
rice in a quart of milk with a little lemon peel ; mix with 
this twelve apples, peeled, cored, sliced, and boiled to a 
pulp, the yolks of four eggs well beaten, two ounces of 
candied orange peel and citron peel cut fine, one glassful 
of white w T ine, sugar to taste, and the whites of four eggs, 



PUDDINGS. 359 

beaten to the stiffest possible froth, added at the last ; line 
a deep dish or mould with family pie crust (" Puff Paste"), 
pour in the pudding, and bake in a good oven to a light 
brown ; turn it out of the mould, and serve it with the fol- 
lowing sauce poured over it. It should be placed on the 
dish bottom upward. 

Sauce. — Two glassf uls of white wine ; one tablespoonf ul 
of sifted white sugar; the yolks of two eggs, well beaten ; 
a bit of butter as large as a walnut. Simmer without boil- 
ing, and pour to and from the saucepan until it is of the 
proper thickness; serve at once. 

Half-hour Pudding. — One pint of sweet milk ; fonr 
eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately to the utmost; 
five tablespoonf uls of sifted flour ; a pinch of salt. 

Mix as usual, and bake in a buttered mould twenty 
minutes ; serve with hard sauce. 

Batter Pudding. — Four eggs, yolks and whites beaten 
separately to the utmost; one and a half pints of sweet 
milk ; a pinch of salt ; enough sifted flour to make a bat- 
ter the thickness of rich cream. 

Mix as usual, and bake until done ; serve with wine 
sauce. If properly made and baked, batter pudding should 
be very light. 

Baked Indian Pudding.— One quart of sweet milk ; 
four handf uls of Indian meal, sifted ; two tablespoonfuls of 
cinnamon ; three quarters of a cupful of suet, freed from 
strings and chopped to powder ; half a cupful of sugar > 
one egg, well beaten. 

Put the milk on the fire, and when it begins to boil stir 
in the other ingredients ; when well mixed pour into a 
buttered mould, and bake an hour. 

Bread Pudding. — Two cupfuls of dry, finely rolled 
stale bread crumbs; four eggs, whites and yolks beaten 



360 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

separately ; one quart of rich milk ; two tablespoonfols 
of melted butter; nutmeg to taste; one quarter of a 
teaspoonful of soda dissolved in hot water. 

Soak the bread crumbs in milk ; stir in the beaten yolks, 
then the butter, seasoning, and soda, and, lastly, the whites; 
bake to a fine brown, and eat hot with pudding sauce. 
This pudding is equally good boiled. 

Fruit Bread Pudding. — Take slips of stale white bread 
cut like finger biscuits, and line your mould with them, 
pressing them closely so that they may adhere well to the 
mould. When this is done, fill the mould with alternate 
layers of stewed fruit (damsons are the best fruit for this 
purpose), and very thin slices *of bread ; the bread should 
be buttered, and dusted with powdered sugar, and the 
layers of fruit should be fully an inch thick ; when the 
mould is quite full, press down the pudding with a plate, 
and put a weight on the top of the plate. It should be 
made the day before it is to be eaten, and should be served 
with clotted cream poured over it. 

Sponge- Cake Pudding. — Take six or eight small round 
sponge cakes, and as many macaroons; split and seed 
some large raisins, and stick them on the inside of a well- 
buttered mould ; put in the cake, and pour over it a 
wineglassful of sherry, cognac, or curacoa; blanch and 
pound some sweet almonds, and sprinkle them over the 
cakes ; fill up the mould with cold custard, and steam one 
hour ; turn out of the mould, and serve. 

Brown Betty. — One cupful of bread crumbs; two cup- 
fuls of chopped apples (sour apples are best) ; half a cup- 
ful of sugar; one cupful of Sultana raisins, stoned and 
chopped ; one teaspoonful of cinnamon ; two tablespoon- 
fuls of butter, cut into small bits. 

Butter a deep dish, and put a layer of chopped apples 
and raisins at the bottom ; sprinkle with sugar, a few bits 



PUDDINGS. 361 

of butter, and bread crumbs ; proceed in this order until 
the dish is full, having a thick layer of bread crumbs at 
the top ; cover closely, and steam three quarters of an 
hour in a moderate oven ; then uncover, and brown 
quickly ; serve in the dish in -which it is baked. This is 
good hot or cold ; eat with sweet sauce, or old Humphrey's 
aigre doux sauce. 

Apple-and-Plum Pudding. — Three quarters of a pound 
of fine tart apples, pared and chopped ; three quarters of 
a pound of sugar ; three quarters of a pound of fine sifted 
flour; half a pound of beef suet, rubbed fine; three 
quarters of a pound of raisins, seeded and chopped; six 
eggs; one teaspoonful of nutmeg; one teaspoonful of 
powdered cloves ; one teaspoonful of salt ; half a wine- 
glassful of brown sherry, and the same of brandy. 

Stir the beaten yolks and sugar very light ; add the 
suet, apples, and spice ; then the raisins, well dredged with 
flour; then the flour and liquor; lastly, the whites beaten 
very stiff. Bake in two buttered moulds in a moderate 
oven an hour and a half at least; eat hot with sauce- 
This pudding is equally good boiled. 

Apple-and- Tapioca Pudding. — One teacupful of tapi- 
oca ; six apples, pared and cored ; the apples should be 
sound and savory; one quart of water; one teaspoonful 
of salt. 

Cover the tapioca with three cupf uls of lukewarm water, 
and set in a tolerably w r arm place to soak for Ave or six 
hours, stirring now and then ; pack the apples in a deep 
earthen dish, adding a cupful of lukewarm water ; cover 
closely, and steam in a moderate oven until they are soft, 
turning them occasionally that they may cook on all sides ; 
then turn out the liquid in the dish ; fill up the centre of 
each apple with loaf sugar ; stick a piece of lemon peel 
and a clove in each ; pour over the tapioca, and bake one 
hour ; eat warm or cold with the sauce you prefer. 

16 



362 THE UNlilVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Baked Apple Dumplings. — One quart of flour; one 
tablespoonful of lard ; one tablespoonf ul of butter ; two 
cupfuls of milk; one teaspoonful of soda dissolved in hot 
water ; two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, sifted into the 
dry flour ; one saltspoonful of salt. 

Sift the flour with the cream of tartar ; chop in the 
shortening; put in the soda, and moisten quickly, just stiff 
enough to roll into a paste less than half an inch thick; 
cut into squares, and lay in the centre of each a juicy, tart 
apple, pared and cored ; bring the corners of the square 
neatly together, and pinch them slightly; lay in a buttered 
baking-pan, the pinched edges downward, and bake to a 
fine brown ; when done, brush over with beaten white of 
eggs, and set in the oven to glaze for two or three minutes ; 
sift powdered sugar over them, and eat hot, with rich, 
sweet sauce. 

Boiled Apple Dumplings, or any other Fruit Dump- 
lings. — One quart of finest white flour, sifted ; one table- 
spoonful of lard and the same of butter ; one teaspoonful 
of soda dissolved in hot water ; two teaspoonfuls of cream 
of tartar sifted through the flour; one saltspoonful of 
salt; two cupfuls of sweet milk, or enough to make the 
flour into soft dough ; one quart of chopped apples, sliced 
peaches, stewed dried peaches, cherries, stoned plums, 
raspberries, or any other berries, or jam, preserves, or 
canned fruit. 

Roll out the crust less than half an inch thick, into an 
oblong sheet ; cover thickly with the fruit, and sprinkle 
with sugar ; roll up closely, leaving the fruit inside ; pinch 
the ends of the folded roll together, and baste up in a bag, 
which should previously have been dipped into boiling 
water, wrung out, and floured inside ; boil an hour and a 
half ; serve hot with hard sauce. 

Boiled Apple Dumplings, Small. — Make a paste as 
above, cut into squares, put into the centre of each an 



PUDDINGS. 363 

apple ; tie up each dumpling in a little bag, which bag 
should be dipped in boiling water, wrung out, and floured 
inside ; boil one hour. 

Boiled Suet Dumplings. — Two cupfuls of finely rolled 
bread crumbs soaked in milk; one cupful of beef suet, 
freed from strings and powdered ; four eggs, whites and 
yolks beaten separately, and very light ; one tablespoonf ul 
of sugar ; one teaspoonf ul of cream of tartar sifted into 
the flour ; half a teaspoonf ul of soda dissolved in boiling 
water ; one teaspoonf ul of salt ; enough milk to mix into 
a stiff paste ; make into large balls with floured hands ; 
put into dumpling-cloths dipped into hot water and 
floured inside ; leave room to swell, and tie the strings 
very tightly ; boil three quarters of an hour, and serve hot 
with a good sauce. 

Pice Dumplings. — One pound of rice boiled, without 
stirring, until soft ; twelve apples, pared and cored ; cur- 
rant or any other tart jelly. 

Let the rice cool and dry upon a sieve ; dip the dump- 
ling-cloths in hot water, wring out and flour ; put a hand- 
ful of the cold rice upon each, spreading it out into a 
smooth sheet ; lay in the centre an apple, fill the hole left 
by the core with some tart jelly, draw up the cloth care- 
fully to enclose the apple with a coating of rice ; tie, and 
boil one hour ; turn out with care, and eat with sweet- 
ened cream. 

Duff Plum Pudding. — Six ounces of finest white flour, 
sifted; one teaspoonf ul of salt; two teaspoonf uls of bak- 
ing powder ; one teaspoonful of cinnamon ; four ounces 
of chopped suet ; four ounces of sugar ; four ounces of 
well-washed currants, or raisins, stoned ; half a pint of 
milk ; one egg. 

Mix all well and smoothly together, put into a greased 
and floured bag, and steam three hours ; use sauce to taste. 



364 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Plum Pudding, Poor Marts. — Half a pound of finest 
white flour, sifted ; four ounces of raisins, stoned and 
chopped ; four ounces of currants, well washed ; four 
ounces of chopped suet ; three tablespoonfuls of molas- 
ses ; one teaspoonful of ground spice ; one gill of cold 
water. 

Mix smoothly together, put into a greased and floured 
mould, and steam until you are ready to put on the 
table. 

Centennial Pudding. — One short pint of grated bread 
crumbs ; one quart of boiling milk ; sugar to taste ; yolks 
of five eggs well beaten ; vanilla or bitter-almond flavor- 
ing. 

Pour the boiling milk over the bread crumbs, and let it 
stand for an hour ; then beat smooth, and add the sugar, 
then the beaten yolks, and the flavoring ; bake in a round 
baking-dish in a quick oven, but not hot enough to brown 
it ; when cold, spread over it a thick layer of jelly or 
jam ; beat the whites of the eggs with sugar, as for icing, 
and spread thickly on top of the jelly ; set in the oven to 
harden ; eat cold. 

Transparent Pudding. — Half a pound of fresh butter, 
warmed, but not melted ; half a pound of sifted sugar 
mixed with the butter ; half a nutmeg, grated ; eight 
eggs, yolks and whites beaten separately, to the ut- 
most. 

Beat the butter and sugar light, and then add the nut- 
meg and the beaten eggs, which should be stirred in 
gradually; flavor with vanilla, almond, peach, or rose 
water; stir hard; butter a deep dish, and bake half an 
hour; eat cold. 

Crystal Palace Pudding. — One large teaspoonful of 
corn-flour, mixed smooth with half a teacupful of new 
milk, half a pint of cream, sugar to taste, flavoring to taste, 



PUDDINGS. 365 

and half an ounce of isinglass steeped in half a teacupful 
of milk for some hours ; boil ten minutes over the fire, stir- 
ring one way ; take from the fire, and add quickly two eggs 
well beaten ; stir till nearly cold ; pour into moulds. 

Treacle Pudding. — Half a pound of flour; one ounce 
of suet, finely chopped ; a quarter of a pint of treacle 
sugar-house molasses ; one pinch of salt ; one teaspoonful 
of ginger ; one teaspoonful of baking-powder. 

Mix smoothly, cover with greased paper, and steam 
three hours, taking care that it never stops cooking. 

Eve's Pudding. — One heaping cupful of fine, dry bread 
crumbs ; half a pound of pared and chopped apples ; half 
a pound of Sultana raisins, seeded and chopped ; six ounces 
of currants, washed and dried ; six eggs, whites and yolks 
beaten separately to the utmost ; one teaspoonful of grat- 
ed nutmeg, and the same of allspice ; one wineglassful of 
brandy ; one cupful of sugar ; one teaspoonful of salt ; 
half a pound of suet chopped to powder. 

Work the sugar into the beaten yolks, then the suet and 
bread crumbs with the chopped apples, next the brandy 
and spice, then the whipped whites, and, lastly, the fruit 
well dredged with flour ; boil in a buttered bowl or mould 
three hours ; eat hot with sauce. 

Fruit Pyramid. — Make some good, light crust, roll out 
a quarter of an inch thick, and cut in graduated rounds ; 
i. e., the bottom round the size of a tea-plate, the top or 
sixth round not more than three inches across, the other 
rounds graduated in proportion ; spread the bottom round 
with stoned cherries or other fruit, and sprinkle with sug- 
ar ; place a smaller round of paste on this, and proceed 
as before to cover with fruit and sugar, being careful, as 
you build up, to fold the margins of paste over the fruit 
in such a way as to weld each layer of paste to the one 
above it ; have ready a conical cap of stout muslin adapt- 



366 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

ed to the height and width of your pyramid, dip the bag 
in boiling water, wring out, flour inside, and draw gently 
over all. It should be large enough to meet and tie under 
the base without cramping the pyramid. Boil two hours, 
and eat with sweet sauce. 

Or, this can be boiled in a mould shaped like an Egyp- 
tian pyramid. 

Huckleberry Pudding. — One pint of milk ; two eggs ; 
enough sifted flour for a thick batter ; one gill of baker's 
yeast ; one saltspoonful of salt ; one teaspoonful of soda 
dissolved in boiling water ; nearly a quart of berries well 
dredged with flour. 

Make a batter of eggs, milkj flour, yeast, salt, and soda, 
and set it to rise in a warm place about four hours ; when 
you are ready to boil it, stir in the dredged fruit quickly 
and lightly ; boil in a floured cloth for two hours ; eat hot 
with hard sauce. 

Hasty Pudding. — Have some boiling water in a pot, 
salt it, and stir in Indian meal, a little at a time ; when 
the water is all in stir it, set it on the top of the stove, 
and let it boil slowly for three hours; when taken out it 
should be so soft that it will in a few minutes settle down 
smoothly in the dish ; when perfectly cold turn it out on 
the moulding-board, and dredge with wheaten flour until 
you can roll it out ; cut into cakes a little less than half 
an inch thick, and fry in dripping. 

Indian Meal Pudding, Fried. — One pint of white Ind- 
ian meal ; one spoonful of sugar ; enough boiling water to 
moisten it. 

Make up into flat cakes, and fry in a very little boiling 
lard ; split, butter, and serve. 

Boiled Indian Pudding. — One quart of Indian meal, 
sifted ; one quart of rich, sweet milk ; a quarter of a pound 



PUDDINGS. 367 

of beef suet, freed from strings and powdered ; one tea- 
spoonf al of salt ; three eggs, whites and yolks beaten sep- 
arately. 

Scald the milk, and while boiling-hot stir in the meal, 
salt, and suet ; when cold add the yolks beaten with the 
sugar, then the whites ; dip the pudding-bag in hot water, 
wring out, flour it, and fill half full with the mixture, as it 
will swell ; eat very hot, with butter and brown sugar. 

Boiled Indian Pudding, William PenrCs. — One pint 
of sour milk ; two cupfuls of Indian meal ; one cupful of 
flour ; a lump of butter half the size of an egg ; one tea- 
spoonful of salt ; one dessertspoonful of soda. 

Mix all together smoothly ; then take a three-quart pan 
with a light cover, grease it, pour in a little batter, then 
some fruit or jam (raspberry is best), then more batter, 
and so on ; set in a pan of boiling water, and boil two 
hours. 

Baked Indian Pudding, Virginia. — One teacupful of 
Indian meal mixed with warm water ; one quarter of a 
pound of melted butter ; four eggs beaten light ; brown 
sugar to taste ; one tablespoonf ul of molasses ; one tea- 
spoonful of brandy ; one teaspoonf ul of powdered cinna- 
mon ; a little finely chopped orange peel ; a few cur- 
rants. 

Bake in a shallow earthen dish for one hour. This 
quantity is enough for two dishes, as it should not be more 
than an inch in depth. 

Baked Indian Pudding, New York. — One quart of 
milk ; six tablespoonf uls of Indian meal thickened with a 
little milk ; one cupful of molasses; one teaspoonf ul of salt. 

Boil the milk; add the Indian meal; when it thickens 
pour it into a deep dish, adding the molasses and the salt; 
before you put it into the oven add one pint more of cold 
milk, but do not stir it ; bake four hours. 



368 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Baked Indian Pudding, Pennsylvania. — One pint of 
Indian meal, sifted ; one pint of boiling milk ; one pint of 
boiling water ; one cupful of butter ; two tablespoonfuls 
of wheat flour ; four dessertspoonfuls of molasses; four 
dessertspoonfuls of sugar ; five eggs, well beaten ; one 
wineglassful of brandy ; a little salt and nutmeg. 

Scald the meal in the water ; then add the milk and the 
other ingredients in order ; bake an hour. 

Baked Indian Pudding, Boston — Boil a quart of milk, 
stir in three gills of Indian meal, next stir in half a pint 
of molasses, and let all cool ; butter a deep earthen dish, 
put in a quarter of a pound of chopped suet, and a table- 
spoonful of salt ; turn in the pudding, add a tablespoonful 
of ground ginger, and stir hard ; bake five hours. When 
baked in a brick oven, it should, be left in it overnight. 

Lemon Pudding, No. 1. — The grated rind and juice of 
two lemons ; half a pound of fresh butter ; two tablespoon- 
fuls of fine white flour ; a little cardamom ; sugar to taste ; 
grated nutmeg. 

Mix well and set on the fire ; when thoroughly warmed 
through, take off the fire and beat till cold ; add the whites 
of twelve eggs well beaten, and when in the oven spread 
them oxer the top. 

Lemon Pudding, No. 2. — The peels of two large lemons 
grated on sugar; half a pound of butter; the juice of one 
large lemon ; the yolks of ten eggs ; the whites of five eggs. 

Beat all together, and, lining a deep pudding-dish with 
puff paste, bake the lemon pudding in it ; while baking, 
beat the whites of the remaining ia.ve eggs to a stiff froth, 
whip in fine white sugar to taste, cover the top of the pud- 
ding (when baked) with the meringue, and return to the 
oven for a moment to brown ; eat cold. 

Lemon Pudding, No. 3. — One cupful of sugar; four 



PUDDINGS. 369 

eggs; two tablespoonf uls of corn-starch moistened with cold 
water ; two lemons, the juice of both, and rind of one ; 
one pint of milk ; one tablespoonful of butter. 

Heat the milk to boiling, and stir in the corn-starch ; 
boil five minutes, stirring constantly ; while hot add the 
butter, and set away to cool ; beat the eggs light, and add 
the sugar, lemon juice, and rind ; beat to a cream, add to 
the milk when cold, and bake in a buttered pudding-dish. 

Long Branch Pudding. — Two cupfuls of sifted flour ; 
half a cupful of molasses; half a tumblerful of water; 
a quarter of a cupful of butter ; one small teaspoonf ul of 
soda ; one teaspoonful of ground cinnamon and cloves, 
mixed. 

Beat it well, and stir in last of all a quart of fresh fruit, 
either blackberries, whortleberries, raspberries, or stoned 
cherries ; if cherries are used, omit the spice ; boil for two 
hours in a bag, and serve hot, w T ith wine sauce or hard 
sauce. 

Corn-starch Meringue Pudding. — Four teaspoonfuls of 
corn-starch ; four eggs, yolks and whites beaten separate- 
ly; three quarters of a cupful of powdered sugar; one 
quart of sweet milk ; half a cupful of preserve or fruit 
jelly. _ 

Moisten the corn-starch with a little cold milk, then stir 
it into the boiling milk; boil fifteen minutes, stirring all 
the while ; remove from the fire, and stir in while hot the 
yolks of the eggs beaten up with sugar, and floured ; pour 
into a buttered pudding-dish, and bake fifteen minutes ; 
then spread with a layer of preserve, and upon that the 
whites, which must have been beaten up stiffly with a little 
sugar ; bake five minutes covered, then brown, and serve 
hot or cold, as. you prefer. 

Orange- Marmalade Pudding. — One cupful of fine 
rolled bread crumbs; half a cupful of sugar; one cupful 

16* 



370 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

of milk or cream ; four eggs well beaten, whites and yolks 
separately ; two teaspoonf uls of butter ; one cupful of 
orange marmalade. 

Rub the butter and sugar together ; add the yolks, milk, 
bread crumbs, and whites ; put a layer of this in a well- 
buttered mould ; spread thickly with marmalade ; then put 
in another layer of the mixture, and so on, until the dish 
is full, having the custard mixture at the top ; bake in a 
moderate oven an hour ; turn out of the mould on a dish, 
and serve with cream, or aigre doux sauce. 

Macaroni or Vermicelli Pudding. — One cupful of 
macaroni or vermicelli, broken into inch lengths; one 
quart of milk; four eggs; half a lemon, juice, and grated 
rind ; two tablespoonfuls of butter ; three quarters of a 
cupful of sugar. 

Simmer the macaroni in half the milk until tender ; 
while hot, stir in the butter, yolks well beaten up with 
the sugar, the lemon, and, lastly, the whipped whites; 
bake in a buttered mould half an hour, or until nicely 
browned. 

Tapioca Pudding. — One cupful of tapioca ; one quart 
of milk ; iive eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately ; 
two tablespoonfuls of butter, melted ; two tablespoonfuls 
of sugar. 

Soak the tapioca in enough cold water to cover it for 
two hours ; drain off the water ; soak two hours longer in 
warm milk ; then, when the sugar and butter are beaten 
to a cream, add the yolks, milk, and tapioca; last of all 
the beaten whites ; stir long and well, and bake in a but- 
tered dish ; eat hot with sauce. 

Neapolitan Pudding. — One large cupful of fine bread 
crumbs, soaked in milk; three quarters of a cupful of 
sugar; one lemon, juice, and grated rind; six eggs, yolks 
and whites beaten separately ; half a pound of stale sponge 



PUDDINGS. 371 

cake ; half a pound of almond macaroons ; half a cupful 
of jelly or jam; one wineglassfnl of sherry; half a cup- 
ful of milk, poured on the bread crumbs ; one tablespoon- 
ful of melted butter. 

Rub the butter and sugar together, then add the beaten 
yolks, the soaked bread crumbs, lemon, and rind ; beat to 
a smooth, light paste, and then add the beaten whites; 
butter your mould very well, put in the bottom a layer of 
light bread crumbs, then one of macaroons ; wet with the 
wine ; cover with a layer of custard, then of sponge cake, 
then jam, then macaroons again, and so on, until the dish 
is full ; cover closely ; steam in the oven three quarters of 
an hour; uncover and brown ; turn out carefully, and eat 
with currant-jelly sauce. 

Baked Orange Pudding. — The rind of one orange, 
powdered finely with a pestle and mortar ; three table- 
spoonfuls of sifted white sugar ; the yolks of four eggs, 
and the juice of half a lemon. 

Beat all together in a basin for a quarter of an hour, 
then put in slowly, and stirring gently all the time, the 
whites (which must previously have been beaten to the 
stiffest froth) ; when all is smoothly mixed together, pour 
into a buttered mould ; bake twelve minutes in a very 
hot oven, and serve immediately. 

Cabinet Pudding a VAnglaise. — Line a well-buttered 
mould with seeded Sultanas or dried cherries ; then with 
slices of French roll ; next put a layer of lady - fingers 
and macaroons; then bread again, sprinkling over it at 
times two liqueurglassfuls of brandy (one will be suf- 
ficient for a small pudding) ; beat up four or five eggs 
with a pint of milk or cream, sweeten it to taste, and add 
a little nutmeg, and the rind of a lemon finely grated ; fill 
up the mould with this mixture, and boil one hour and a 
half. 



372 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

One-Pound Plum Pudding. — One pound of beef suet; 
half a pound of finest white flour, sifted ; half a pound of 
bread crumbs rolled and passed through a colander; one 
pound of sugar; one pound of currants, picked, washed, 
and dredged ; two pounds of raisins, seeded and chopped ; 
half a pound of candied peel ; rind of one lemon, grated ; 
one teaspoonful of spice ; one tiny pinch of salt ; eight 
eggs ; one wineglassf ul of brandy ; enough milk to mix 
it (about a pint). 

Chop the suet well, and then roll it smooth, and mix it. 
with the flour; next add the bread crumbs, then the cur- 
rants, sugar, raisins, salt, candied peel, and spice ; then the 
eggs, which should be beaten to their utmost capacity, 
yolks and whites separately, aud the milk ; stir steadily 
and long, until the batter is perfectly smooth ; then pour 
into a buttered tin mould, cover closely, and tie a cloth 
round it to prevent the cover from budging; when the 
water boils furiously put the pudding into the pot, and let 
it boil steadily for six or seven hours, adding boiling water 
as it boils away. This pudding may be served either with 
egg sauce, or hard sauce; it should have brandy poured 
round it and lighted, and a sprig of holly stuck in the 
middle. 

Poor-Man's Pice Pudding, No. 1. — Butter a deep earth- 
enware dish, and pour into it one quart of the best fresh 
milk, one tablespoonful of raw rice, sugar to taste, a 
piece of butter half the size of an egg, a stick of cinna- 
mon, and a piece of lemon peel ; simmer three hours in a 
good oven ; eat ice cold. 

Poor- Marts Rice Pudding, No. 2. — Two quarts of 
milk; one teacupful of rice; four tablespoonfuls of best 
brown sugar ; one small stick of cinnamon ; dried peel of 
half an orange. 

Put into an oven, and bake slowly from two and a half 
to three hours. 



puddings: 373 

Beetorts Unrivalled Plum Pudding. — One and a half 
pounds of Muscatel raisins, seeded and cut up ; one pound 
of Sultana raisins, seeded and cut up ; two pounds of rolled 
bread crumbs ; two pounds of finest moist, sugar ; two 
pounds of suet, freed from strings and powdered ; six 
ounces of mixed candied peel ; grated rind of two lemons ; 
one ounce of ground nutmeg ; one ounce of ground cinna- 
mon ; half an ounce of pounded bitter almonds ; a quarter 
of a pint of the best brandy ; sixteen eggs well beaten. 

Stone and cut up the raisins ; wash, dry, and dredge 
the currants; cut the candied peel into the thinnest pos- 
sible slices ; sift the sugar, and beat the eggs well ; mix all 
the dry ingredients well and thoroughly together, then 
add little by little the beaten eggs and the brandy. When 
all the ingredients are well mixed together, beat long and 
hard ; then well butter and flour a stout new pudding- 
cloth, put the pudding in, tie it closely, and boil from six 
to eight hours ; stick a sprig of holly in the middle when 
you serve it ; dot it thickly with blanched almonds, and 
serve with brandy on fire. 

William Pernios Plum Pudding. — Yolks of twelve 
eggs, and whites of six, beaten separately and well; one 
pound of best Sultana raisins, stoned ; one pound of best 
currants, picked, washed, dried, and rubbed on a towel; 
one pound of beef suet, chopped and shredded ; one pound 
of flour, sifted ; half a pound of loaf sugar, grated ; a quar- 
ter of a pound of citron, snipped very fine ; half a nutmeg, 
grated ; one teaspoonf ul of powdered ginger ; half a pint 
of rich, fresh cream ; one wineglassful of the best brandy; 
one wineglassful of rose water. 

Mix the flour with the fruit ; stir in the whipped eggs ; 
add the cream, spices, citron, and suet ; then the sugar, 
brandy, and rose water ; beat well all the time it is being 
mixed, then tie tight in a pudding-bag well dusted with 
flour; let it boil for six hours, turning it in the pot from 
time to time; when done, plunge for a second in cold 



374 THE UNEIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

water to prevent its sticking to the bag. Admirable, and 
will keep for weeks. 

Plain Plum P%idding. — One and a half cupfuls of 
milk ; one cupful of suet, freed from strings, and chopped 
to powder ; four scant cupfuls of sifted flour ; one pinch 
of salt ; two thirds of a cupful of molasses ; one teaspoon- 
f ul of soda ; one cupful and a half of raisins, seeded and 
dredged ; one cupful and a half of currants, picked, washed, 
and dregded ; half a cupful of finely snipped candied 
orange peel ; one teaspoonf ul of ground cloves ; one grated 
nutmeg. 

Mix as usual, and boil four hours. 

Half -hour Pudding. — Half a pound of beef suet, 
shredded finely and chopped to powder ; half a pound of 
grated and browned bread crumbs ; one tablespoonful of 
sifted flour ; half a cupful of sugar ; one nutmeg, grated ; 
three eggs beaten light. 

Mix as usual, and, after flouring your hands, form the 
pudding into large round balls, tie each in a cup, then in 
a floured cloth; boil half an hour, and serve with wine 
sauce. 

Queens Pudding. — One and a half cupfuls of white 
sugar, powdered ; three cupfuls of fine dry bread crumbs 
soaked in sweet cream; five eggs; one tablespoonful of 
butter; vanilla, or rose water, or bitter-almond seasoning; 
one quart of fresh, rich milk ; one cupful of preserve. 

Cream the butter and sugar ; beat the yolks light, and 
stir to a cream ; then add the soaked bread crumbs ; pour 
into a buttered pudding-dish, and bake ; when the pudding 
is " set," spread with preserve, and then with a meringue 
made of the whites of the eggs whipped up with half a 
cupful of sugar. 

Cheap Suet Bolyjpoly. — One pound of fine white flour; 



PUDDINGS. 375 

two teaspoonfuls of salt ; one teaspoonful of baking-pow- 
der; two ounces of sweet beef drippings; two gills of 
milk; two gills of water; one egg. 

Sift flour, salt, and baking-powder together; rub in the 
drippings, milk, water, and egg; roll out half an inch thick; 
spread with a quarter of a pound of chopped suet, one 
pinch of salt, two heaping tablespoonfuls of sugar, and 
spice or nutmeg to taste ; roll up, tie tightly in a floured 
cloth, and boil steadily for two hours in a large covered 
pot half -full of water. 

Molasses Bolypoly. — Make up as " Suet Kolypoly," using 
half a pint of molasses instead of the suet. 

Currant Polypoly. — Make up as " Suet Roly poly," using 
a quarter of a pound of washed and dried currants with 
the suet. 

Shelf or d Plodding. — Half a pound of suet, freed from 
shreds, and chopped to powder; one pound of flour, sift- 
ed ; six eggs well beaten, whites and yolks separately ; 
one ounce of candied lemon peel, chopped fine ; one pinch 
of salt ; one pound of raisins, seeded and chopped ; one 
pint of warm milk. 

Mix all the ingredients well together, pour into a mel- 
on-shape form, cover, and boil six hours. 

Plain Suet Pudding. — One coffeecupful of suet, freed 
from shreds, and chopped to a fine powder; three coffee- 
cupfuls of sifted flour; one coffeecupful of raisins, seed- 
ed and chopped ; one coffeecupful of molasses ; one cup- 
ful of sweet milk, warm ; half a teaspoonful of soda dis- 
solved in the milk ; one teaspoonful of salt. 

This pudding should boil from four and a half to five 
hours. If boiled in a bag, allow very little room for swell- 
ing; serve with Edinburgh sauce, which is composed of 
one cupful of sugar, two thirds of a cupful of butter beat- 



376 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

en to a cream, half a pint of brown sherry heated to boil- 
ing, and two eggs well beaten ; add the eggs to the but- 
ter and sugar, then the wine, put the saucepan on the 
fire, and stir steadily. 

Plain Treacle Pudding. — Three quarters of a pound 
of sifted flour; a quarter of a pound of suet, freed from 
strings and powdered ; half a pound of black treacle or 
molasses ; one egg. well beaten ; one teaspoonf ul of bak- 
ing-powder; one teaspoonf ul of ground ginger; four ta- 
blespoonfuls of milk. 

Sift the flour into a bowl, add the baking-powder and 
ginger, mix well, then add the suet, pour the treacle into 
the middle of the flour, and add the beaten egg and milk ; 
stir all quickly to a smooth, soft paste, put into a greased 
mould, and cover with a piece of greased paper ; set the 
mould into a pan of boiling water — the water should reach 
to about an inch from the top of the mould — and watch 
closely to see that the water does not boil into the pud- 
ding. 

Poor- Maris Fruit Pudding. — Four ounces of rolled 
bread crumbs; eight ounces of sifted flour; one teaspoon- 
ful of baking-powder ; a quarter of a pound of suet ; a 
quarter of a pound of Sultana raisins, seeded and chopped ; 
a quarter of a pound of currants, picked, washed, and 
dredged ; two ounces of citron ; the juice and grated rind 
of a lemon ; half a pound of treacle ; one egg, well beaten ; 
enough milk to bind all together ; a pinch of salt, and a 
teaspoonful of allspice. 

Mix as usual, pour into two buttered moulds, of equal 
size, and steam or boil each for two hours. 

Sir Watkyn Wynnes Pudding. — Four ounces of ground 
rice ; half a pound of suet ; half a pound of browned bread 
crumbs; four yolks and two whites of eggs; four table- 
spoonfuls of orange marmalade. 



PUDDINGS. 377 

Shred the suet into the finest possible strips, and mix 
it thoroughly with the flour and bread ; then add the 
yolks, which should previously have been beaten very 
light ; then the whites, which must be previously beaten 
as light as possible; then, drop by drop, the marmalade; 
then beat all well together, put into a buttered mould 
which will hold a quart, taking care not to press it too 
tightly ; let it boil four hours ; serve with butter sauce. 

Farina Pudding. — Put two ounces of Hecker's farina 
into three quarters of a pint of new milk, and let both 
boil up together ; when done enough, stir in a quarter of 
a pound of butter, two ounces of loaf sugar, five eggs 
(omitting the whites of two), the rind of a lemon, grated, 
a little orange-flower water, and some small slices of cit- 
ron ; beat the yolks and whites separately, adding the 
whites last of all; when mixed, beat hard and long, then 
bake in small cups, and serve with sauce. 

Iced Almond Pudding a la Pusse. — Half a quart of al- 
mond milk, well sweetened, and flavored with bitter al- 
mond ; two tumblerf uls of whipped cream ; six leaves of 
gelatine dissolved previously in water. 

Whip the gelatine into the almond milk, and then add 
the whipped cream, stirring and beating until you have a 
smooth mass ; then pour into a dome-shaped form which* 
has previously been placed on pounded ice and rock salt ; 
put on the cover of the form ; stop the joint (between the 
cover and the form) with a paste made of flour and wa- 
ter; cover with ice and salt ; in an hour's time plunge the 
form into warm water, dry quickly, and turn out the pud- 
ding on a napkin. 

Iced Apricot Pudding. — Take some fresh, ripe apricots, 
peel and stone them, and press through a sieve; sugar 
well, and add the juice of two oranges, several spoonfuls 
of almond milk, and seven or eight leaves of dissolved gel- 



378 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

atine ; strain carefully, then put a little in a cup and place 
it on the ice to judge of its consistency ; if it be of the 
proper consistency pour into a bowl, put the bowl into a 
pan filled with ice, and beat hard and long, until the pud- 
ding is smooth and light ; then pour into a mould and pro- 
ceed as above. 

Iced Peach Pudding. — Proceed as above, omitting the 
orange juice, and using rich, sweet cream instead of the 
almond milk ; blanch and pound the peach kernels, and 
add for flavoring. 

Iced Pice Pudding & la Bearnaise. — Blanch half a 
pound of rice for six or seven minutes ; then drain, put 
into a porcelain - lined saucepan, and cover with milk; 
cook slowly, and when the rice is tender and the milk 
absorbed, sweeten it ; when the sugar is melted, withdraw 
the saucepan from tlie fire, cover it, and let it stand until 
the rice is cold ; then add half a glassful of Maraschino, 
and a few teaspoonfuls of orange syrup. Pack an ice 
pudding-mould in ice and salt ; when it has stood for ten 
minutes, fill with alternate layers of rice and preserve; 
cover, seal, and pack as usual, and leave for an hour. 

Iced Pice Pudding a VEspagnole. — Pick about a pound 
of good rice, wash it carefully, plunge into boiling wa- 
ter, and parboil it ; then drain, put into an earthen sauce- 
pan, and finish cooking it with milk ; when tender take 
from the fire, and when almost cold sweeten with pow- 
dered sugar; add half a quart of orange syrup, and a 
tumblerful of rich cream ; pour into a mould packed on 
ice, and stir for some minutes ; then cover, seal, and pack 
as usual. It will be iced in twenty minutes. 

Iced Banana Pudding, or Plombiere du Cavie. — Three 
cupfuls of vanilla custard, very sweet ; fifteen ripe bananas; 
two cupfuls of whipped cream. 



PUDDINGS. 379 

Peel and mash the bananas, and press through a sieve ; 
stir in the custard, strain through a coarse sieve, and pro- 
ceed as above ; when it has been stirred on the ice for 
some minutes, add the whipped cream, and a wineglass- 
f ul of Maraschino ; then cover, seal, and ice. 

Charlotte de Frankfort Iced Pudding. — Make a little 
clear jelly, using for the purpose either Coxe's or Kelson's 
gelatine ; clarify, flavor with bitter almond, and sweeten 
it well ; while the jelly is still warm, rinse an ice pud- 
ding-mould with cold water, and pack it on ice and salt ; 
when it is freezing-cold put a layer of jelly on the bot- 
tom and sides ; it should be an inch thick ; then pack in 
alternate layers of apricot marmalade and of lady-fingers 
soaked in Maraschino ; proceed in this way until the mould 
is full ; cover closely, seal with a paste of flour and water, 
cover with ice and salt, and leave for an hour. 

Muscovite Iced Pudding. — Take different varieties of 
preserved fruits, immerse for an instant in boiling water, 
drain, and cut into dice ; put into a bowl, pour over them 
a quarter of a tumblerful of cognac, cover, and let them 
stand for an hour ; take six leaves of clarified gelatine, dis- 
solve, and pour into an earthen saucepan; add a quarter 
of a glassful of orange syrup, half a bottle of champagne, 
four teaspoonfuls of lemon juice, and the same quantity 
of syrup of pineapple ; stir steadily for ten minutes ; then 
strain into a bowl placed on ice, and beat until light ; then 
add the chopped fruit, beat smooth, and pour into a mould 
which has been packed in ice for fifteen minutes ; cover, seal, 
and pack as usual ; fifteen minutes will ice it thoroughly. 

Iced Farina Pudding. — Three wineglassf uls of white 
wine; three wineglassf uls of water; one grain of salt; 
Hecker's farina, a little less than half a pound ; half a 
pound of loaf sugar; the rind, grated, and juice of half 
a lemon ; the whites of eight eggs beaten to the utmost. 



380 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Boil the wine and water in a saucepan ; when at boil- 
ing-point, sift in the farina, a little at a time, boil seven 
or eight minutes, then add the lemon and sugar, stirring 
all the time ; when well mixed and smooth withdraw from 
the fire, pour into a bowl, and beat in the whites of eggs ; 
beat again, hard and long, until quite light and smooth, 
pour into moulds wet with cold water, and packed on ice ; 
close and cover as above, and leave two hours on the ice ; 
then turn out, and serve. 

Iced Currant Pudding. — Several handf uls of ripe cur- 
rants ; the juice of two oranges; one cupful of rich, sweet 
cream ; fifteen leaves of clarified gelatine, dissolved ; sug- 
ar to taste. 

Press the currants through a colander, then through a 
sieve ; then add the sugar, orange juice, and gelatine; then 
taste and add more sugar if necessary, and add the cream, 
drop by drop, stirring steadily ; beat hard and long until 
very light ; pour into moulds wet with cold water, cover, 
and pack in ice and salt ; one hour will suffice. 



To Chop /Suet. — Cut into small pieces, and remove the 
membrane ; sprinkle with flour, and chop in a cold place 
to prevent its becoming soft and sticky. 

To Clean Currants. — Put them in a squash strainer, 
and sprinkle thickly with flour ; rub them well until they 
are separated, and the flour, grit, and fine stems have 
passed through the strainer ; then place strainer and cur- 
rants in a pan of water, and wash thoroughly; lift strainer 
and currants together, and change the water until clear ; 
drain between towels, but do not harden them by putting 
them into the oven. 

To Stone Raisins.- — Pour boiling water over them ; let 
them stand in it ^ve or ten minutes ; drain, and rub each 
raisin between the finger and thumb until the seeds come 
out clean, then cut or chop if necessary. 



SWEET SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS, 

ETC. 

Poor-Marl's Cream Sauce. — One ounce of butter ; one 
ounce of flour ; a little spice ; half a pint of boiling wa- 
ter ; half a pint of milk ; two ounces of sugar. 

Stir the flour, butter, and spice over the fire ; add grad- 
ually the boiling milk and water, stirring into the flour 
and butter until quite smooth ; then stir in the sugar, and 
let it boil up once ; then set the saucepan containing it 
into another of hot water, so that the sauce may be kept 
hot until you want to use it. 

Poor-Marts Apple Sauce. — Two quarts of cooking ap- 
ples, pared, cored, and sliced ; one cupful of water; four 
ounces of sugar ; one ounce of butter. 

Stew the apples in the water until soft; then stir in 
the sugar and butter. 

Bed Wine Sauce. — Half a cupful of currant jelly ; one 
glassful of claret, or any other red wine ; one tablespoon- 
ful of butter, melted ; three tablespoonfuls of boiling wa- 
ter ; half of a dessertspoonful of arrow-root, or corn-starch, 
wet with cold water. 

Stir the arrow-root into the boiling water and beat, stir- 
ring constantly until it thickens ; add the butter, then set 
aside until almost cool, when the jelly should be beaten in, 
a little at a time, to a smooth cream ; pour in the wine, 
stir hard, and heat in a tin vessel set within another of 
boiling water. 



382 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Apple- Jelly Sauce. — Half a cupful of apple jelly; two 
tablespoonf uls of melted butter ; the juice of one lemon, 
and half of the grated peel ; half of a teaspoonful of nut- 
meg ; two glassf uls of wine ; one tablespoonf ul of pow- 
dered sugar. 

Beat the jelly to a smooth batter, and add gradually the 
butter (which should have been previously warmed), the 
lemon, and nutmeg; warm almost to a boil, stirring stead- 
ily, beat hard, put in the sugar, and, lastly, the wine ; cov- 
er closely, and set within a saucepan of boiling water un- 
til wanted ; stir now and then, and beat up well before 
pouring out. 

Dinah's Charming Sauce— One small cupful of sifted 
sugar ; half the quantity of butter ; one large cupful of 
boiling milk ; one dessertspoonful of ground cinnamon. 

Stir the butter and sugar to a cream ; then stir in the 
cinnamon and the boiling milk ; stir briskly till smooth ; 
then pour into the sauce boat ; may be eaten cold or hot. 

Old Humphrey's Aigre-Doux Sauce for Cold Puddings. 
— Two large cupfuls of sour cream ; the juice and finely 
grated rind of a large lemon ; sugar to taste. 

Beat hard and long until the sauce is very light. This 
is delicious with cold "Brown Betty" — a form of cold 
farina, corn-starch, blanc-mange, and the like. 

Felicie's Creme d'Amande Sauce, — Two large cupfuls 
of sweet cream; two ounces of sweet almonds, blanched, 
chopped, browned in the oven, and ground ; one ounce of 
bitter almonds, blanched, chopped, browned in the oven, 
and ground ; powdered sugar to taste ; one teaspoonful 
of rose water. 

Beat hard and long until the sauce is thoroughly blend- 
ed and very light. It is a delicious sauce. 

Custard Sauce. — One pint of milk ; two eggs beaten 



SWEET SAUCES. 383 

very light ; one cupful of powdered sugar stirred into the 
eggs ; nutmeg to taste ; flavoring to taste ; half a wine- 
glassful of brandy. 

Heat the milk to boiling, add, by degrees, the beaten 
eggs and sugar, put in the flavoring and nutmeg, and set 
within a pan of boiling water; stir until it begins to thick- 
en ; then take it off, and stir in the brandy gradually ; set, 
until wanted, within a pan of boiling water. 

Hot Cream Sauce. — One pint of cream ; four tablespoon- 
fuls of powdered sugar ; one teaspoonf ul of extract of bit- 
ter almonds or other flavoring ; one teaspoonful of grated 
nutmeg ; the whites of two eggs beaten stiff. 

Heat the cream slowly d bain-marie; when scalding 
hot remove from the fire, put in the sugar and nutmeg, 
stir three or four minutes, and add the whites ; mix thor- 
oughly and flavor, setting the vessel containing the sauce 
in a pan of hot water until the pudding is served. 

Dinah's Pudding Sauce, No. 1 ("Every Day"). — One 
teacupful of sugar ; two thirds of a teacupful of butter ; 
four wineglassfuls of white wine ; two eggs well beaten, 
whites and yolks separately ; one teaspoonful of sifted 
flour. 

Stir the butter and sugar to a cream, then add the eggs 
and flour, and, lastly, the wine, which must be stirred in 
boiling hot; serve immediately. 

Dinah's Nonpareil Pudding Sauce, No. 2. — Two cup- 
fuls of white powdered sugar, sifted ; three quarters of a 
cupful of fresh butter ; one cupful of white wine ; one 
tablespoonf ul of brandy ; one tablespoonf ul of fine white 
flour, sifted. 

Stir the butter and sugar to a perfect cream ; then add 
gradually the wine, brandy, and flour, stirring steadily all 
the time ; then, and not till then, put the bowl containing 
the sauce into a kettle of boiling water. Do not stir it, 



384 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

but see that the water boils steadily until the sauce is 
thoroughly heated through ; if properly made it is smooth 
as cream. 

Hard Sauce. — Stir to a cream one cupful of butter ; 
three cupfuls of powdered sugar; when light, beat in the 
juice of a lemon, and two teaspoonfuls of grated nutmeg. 
Set in a cold place until wanted. 

Brandy Sauce. — Half a cupful of butter ; two cup- 
fuls of powdered sugar ; one wineglassful of brandy; one 
teaspoonful of mixed cinnamon and mace. 

Beehive Sauce. — Make a good hard sauce, according to 
either of the foregoing receipts; color part of it with 
cochineal tincture to a bright crimson or pink, and shape 
into a beehive; put. the remainder of the sauce into a 
small paper funnel, and squeeze the sauce out gently 
through the small end of the funnel, beginning at the base 
of the cone, and winding about it to the top, filling the 
funnel as it is emptied. The effect is very pretty, and 
may be varied as to color to suit your taste. 

Madeira -Wine Sauce. — Yolks of four eggs, whipped 
very light ; one lemon, juice and half the grated peel ; 
one glassful of Madeira or pale sherry ; one cupful of 
sugar ; one tablespoonf ul of butter. 

Rub the butter and sugar together, add the yolks, lemon, 
and spice ; beat ten minutes, and put in the wine, still 
stirring hard ; set within a saucepan of boiling water, and 
beat while it heats, but do not let it boil. Serve hot. 

Delicious Pudding Sauce. — Half a pint of sweet milk ; 
yolks of two eggs well beaten ; one teacupful of pulver- 
ized sugar beaten into the whites of the eggs, flavoring to 
taste ; whites of two eggs beaten stiff. 

Scald the milk ; while still in the saucepan pour in the 



SWEET SAUCES. 385 

yolks, and boil till as thick as custard ; take from the fire, 
and, when cold, add the flavoring and the whites ; beat 
hard and long. 

Quick Sauce for Cold Puddings. — One pint of rich 
fresh cream; some stale macaroons dried in the oven and 
rolled fine ; one teaspoonful of brandy ; one teaspoonf ul 
of rose water. 

Beat the crumbs into the cream, then the rose water, 
last of all the brandy. This is delicious with claret jelly. 

Milk Sauce. — Five tablespoonfuls of boiling milk ; half 
a teaspoonful of arrow-root or corn-starch, wet with cold 
milk; one teaspoonful of grated nutmeg ; onetablespoonful 
of butter ; two eggs beaten stiff ; one large cupful of sugar. 

Cream the butter and sugar, add the eggs, and beat again ; 
add next the corn-starch and spice, then the milk, beating 
hard ; set within a saucepan of boiling water five minutes, 
stirring hard. Do not let it boil. 

Lemon Sauce. — One large cupful of sugar; half a large 
cupful of butter; one egg, beaten light; one lemon, all 
the juice and half the grated peel ; one teaspoonful of 
nutmeg ; three tablespoonfuls of boiling water. 

Cream the butter and sugar; and beat in the egg whip- 
ped light, also the lemon and nutmeg. 

Orange or liaisin Wine Sauce. — Half a cupful of but- 
ter; two and a half cupfuls of sugar; one lemon, juice 
and half the grated peel ; one glassful of orange brandy 
or raisin wine; one cupful of boiling water; one dessert- 
spoonful of corn starch, wet in cold milk. 

Cream the butter and sugar well ; pour the corn-starch 
into the boiling water, and stir over a close fire until it is 
well thickened ; put all together in a bowl, and beat five 
minutes before returning it to the saucepan. Heat once, 
almost to boiling-point, add the wine, and serve. 

17 



SAUCES FOR MEAT AND FISH. 

Browning for Gravies and Sauces, Eo. 1. — Put four 
ounces of lump sugar, a gill of water, and half an ounce 
of the finest butter into a small porcelain saucepan, and 
set it over a gentle fire ; stir it with a wooden spoon until 
it is a bright brown, then add half a pint of water, boil, 
skim, and, when cold, bottle and cork it close. 

Browning for Gravy, 'No. 2. — Four ounces of pounded 
loaf sugar ; one ounce of best butter ; one third of a pint 
of port wine ; three spoonfuls of mushroom catsup ; six 
cloves ; one onion chopped fine ; grated rind of half a 
lemon ; salt and allspice to taste. 

Put the butter and sugar together into a frying-pan over 
a clear fire ; stir it constantly ; when it froths and the sugar 
dissolves, hold it higher; when it becomes a deep brown, 
pour in by degrees the other ingredients in the above 
order ; boil all slowly for ten minutes, skim, strain, and, 
when cold, bottle. 

On the Use of Wine in Sauces. — It may be laid down 
as an invariable rule that, in making wine sauces, it is safe 
to use at first only half the quantity of wine indicated in 
the receipt, adding the remainder just in time to boil up 
once. In this way the fiavor of the sauce is better pre- 
served. 

Browned Flour for Sauces. — Sift the flour, spread it on 
a tin plate on the stove, and stir continually until it begins 
to brown all through. 



SAUCES FOR MEAT AND FISH. 387 

Mushroom Sauce. — One teacupful of young mush- 
rooms ; four tablespoonfuls of melted butter; one teacup- 
ful of cream ; one teaspoonful of corn flour ; nutmeg, 
mace, and salt to taste, wet in cold milk. 

Stew the mushrooms in enough water to cover them 
until tender ; drain, add the cream, butter, and seasoning, 
and stew over a clear fire until it begins to thicken ; add 
the flour, boil up, and serve in a sauceboat with boiled 
poultry, game, etc. 

Asparagus Sauce. — Twelve heads of asparagus; two 
teacupf uls of drawn butter ; two eggs ; the juice of half a 
lemon ; salt and white pepper. 

Boil the tender heads in a little salt and water; drain 
and chop them ; have ready the drawn butter boiling hot, 
with two raw eggs beaten in ; add the asparagus heads 
and season, putting in the lemon juice last ; pour into a 
hot sauceboat, and serve. It is excellent with boiled poul- 
try, stewed fillet of veal, or boiled mutton. 

Anchovy Sauce. — Skin and bone the anchovies, and 
simmer in enough cold water to cover them; strain the 
liquor into a teacupful of drawn butter, add a wineglass- 
ful of pale sherry, beat gradually to a boil, and stew five 
minutes longer. Serve with boiled fish. 

Oyster Sauce. — One pint of oysters ; half a lemon, juice 
only ; two tablespoonfuls of butter ; one teaspoonful of 
flour, mixed with cold water; one teacupful of milk or 
cream ; cayenne and nutmeg to taste. 

Stew the oysters in their own liquor five minutes, and 
add the cream ; when this boils, strain the liquor and re- 
turn to the saucepan ; thicken with the flour, stir well, 
then add the butter and salt, and season to taste ; boil one 
minute, add the lemon juice, stir well, and dish. 

For boiled fish and boiled poultry. 



388 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Mint Sauce for Boast Lamb. — Two tablespoonfuls of 
green mint chopped fine ; one tablespoonfnl of powdered 
sugar ; half a teacupf ul of cider or wine vinegar. 

Put the sugar and vinegar into a sauceboat, and stir in 
the mint. Let it stand fifteen minutes before sending it 
to table. 

Sauce JEspagnole {Brown Sauce). — Butter the bottom 
of the saucepan ; put in pieces of cold chicken, game, ham, 
veal, etc., in fact whatever cold meats you have ; add an 
onion, a clove, and a carrot cut in pieces ; place the sauce- 
pan, covered, on a slow fire to let the meat steam, and until 
the sauce begins to color; add one or two spoonfuls of 
flour, mix it well, moisten with hoi; bouillon so that the 
sauce will be the proper consistency ; add a soup bunch, 
and salt; let it simmer slowly four hours on the back of 
the stove ; then skim off the grease ; press it through a 
sieve, and keep it on hand for adding to all other sauces. 

Sauce Veloute {White Sauce). — Put in a saucepan a 
little butter, carrots, onions, slices of lean ham, and scraps 
of cold meat, or fowls — in fact a whole chicken, if you 
wish — a soup bunch, a clove of garlic (for a few moments), 
a quart of water; cut up the chicken, and let it steam on 
a good fire ; the sauce being reduced, prick the pieces of 
chicken and meat to let the juice escape ; fill the saucepan 
with cold water ; season with salt, one or two cloves of 
garlic, and twelve or fifteen mushrooms, without vinegar; 
skim it well when it comes to a boil, and let it simmer 
four hours ; strain it then into a saucepan ; the moment 
it begins to boil add some roux blanc with one hand, and 
stir with the other hand, until you make the sauce the 
thickness desired ; let it simmer slowly one hour more on 
the back of the stove ; then skim, strain, and keep for fur- 
ther use. 

Sauce Allemande. — Pour a little of the sauce veloute 



SAUCES FOR MEAT AND FISH. 389 

in a saucepan in which you have already beaten up four 
or five yolks of eggs, with a little butter, and a pinch of 
grated nutmeg; put it on the fire for a moment, stirring 
it all the time, that the eggs may be well cooked and the 
sauce well mixed. This is a good sauce for vegetables, or 
fish. 

Sauce Supreme. — Make a little consomme of chicken, 
with all the trimmings ; strain and clarify it ; make a little 
roux blanc, moisten it with this consomme, and reduce it 
to the proper consistency ; at the moment of serving, add 
the juice of a good lemon, and a piece of butter ; stir your 
sauce well with a wooden spoon ; if you like, add a little 
chopped parsley which has been well washed. 

Egg Sauce. — Yolks of three hard-boiled eggs chopped 
fine ; a good teacupful of drawn butter ; salt to taste. 

Stir the chopped yolks of the eggs into the hot drawn 
butter, and add, for fowls, a little minced parsley ; for fish, 
some chopped capers, pickles, or nasturtium seed ; for 
boiled beef, a shallot minced fine. 

. Bechamel Sauce. — Put nine ounces of sifted white flour 
into an earthen dish; add three glasses of cold milk, stir- 
ring vigorously ; put it into a saucepan, and when it be- 
gins to thicken withdraw it from the pan, beat smooth, 
and add one pint of boiled milk, two small onions minced 
fine, a bunch of parsley, a little salt, some whole pep- 
percorns, and, lastly, four to five ounces of raw ham, 
chopped fine ; let it come to a boil, then draw to the back 
of the stove, and simmer twenty minutes, stirring often ; 
then strain carefully. 

Bread Sauce, No. 1. — Slice some white bread very thin, 
and remove the crust ; boil it in milk with a small onion, 
and some whole white pepper ; take out the onion, rub the 
sauce through a coarse sieve, warm it up again, and stir 



390 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

in a small piece of fresh butter before serving. A little 
cream is an improvement, and this, too, should be stirred 
in before serving. 

Bread /Sauce, No. 2. — Eoll some stale bread crumbs 
very fine, brown them thoroughly, and put aside; put 
equal quantities of milk and cream in a casserole, together 
with a small onion and some peppercorns ; when the onion 
is boiled, take it out, strain the sauce through a sieve, and 
replace it on the fire with a piece of fresh butter ; add 
now, a little at a time, the brown bread crumbs, stirring 
all the time, and, when all are put in, heat the sauce for a 
moment, put into a hot sauceboat, and serve. It is very 
good. 

Beurre de Montpellier. — Blanch in boiling water a large 
handful of sweet herbs, such as chives, chervil, tarragon, 
parsley, etc., drain, pound in a mortar to a fine paste, to- 
gether with four anchovies, boned and skinned, the yolks 
of eight hard-boiled eggs, two or three cucumbers, a soup- 
con of garlic, capers, a little salt, pepper, and grated nut- 
meg, and enough fine, fresh butter to work all into a 
smooth, hard paste ; add also some lemon juice and a little 
olive-oil ; color pale olive green with essence of spinach, 
and put in a cool place. Use to garnish cold dishes. 

Beurre d'Ecrevisses {Grabs or Shrimps). — Wash and 
cook the fish with salt and water ; pound the shells (which 
should be bright pink or red in color) and the flesh to- 
gether in a mortar; when you have reduced them to a 
smooth paste, mix them with an equal quantity of the 
finest fresh butter ; work smooth in the mortar, then put 
on the fire with a little water, and boil for half an hour ; 
put some clear cold water in the bottom of a jar or pan, 
spread over a coarse muslin, and pour on the butter ; it 
will filter through the muslin, and must be pressed through 
if necessary; it will float on the water below, from which 



SAUCES FOR MEAT AND FISH. 391 

you must skim it, working it again into shape, and using 
it for flavoring sauces, etc. 

Beurre d'Ail, or Garlic Butter. — Pound two large 
cloves of garlic to a smooth paste, then work in a piece 
of butter the size of an egg. This also may be used, in 
very small quantities, to flavor sauces. 

Anchovy Butter. — Bone and skin two anchovies, pound 
to a paste, and mix with an equal quantity of fresh but- 
ter. 

Melted Butter, a la Francaise, for Salmon. — Melt in a 
saucepan four to five ounces of butter, and add, little by 
little, an equal quantity of the finest sifted flour, stirring 
steadily until the sauce is smooth as cream ; then add 
two glasses of the water in which the salmon was boiled ; 
this water must be strained, and cool before using it ; 
allow the sauce just to come to a boil ; then take the 
saucepan from the fire, and add the yolks of two eggs, 
and four and a half ounces of melted butter, never ceas- 
ing to stir it for an instant ; finish with the juice of a 
lemon, and a pinch of roasted powdered parsley. 

Butter Browned. — Put a lump of butter in a frying- 
pan, and toss and stir it over a clear fire until it browns ; 
then dredge with browned flour, and stir into a thick bat- 
ter until it begins to boil. 

Maitre d) "Hotel Sauce. — One teacupful of melted but- 
ter, prepared as for Dutch sauce ; one teaspoonful of 
minced parsley ; juice of one lemon ; cayenne and salt to 
taste. 

Draw the butter ; stir in the roasted parsley ; add the 
lemon juice; then the pepper and salt; beat hard with 
an egg whip ; return to the pan, and boil up once. 



392 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Old-fashioned Drawn Butter, No. 1. — Two teaspoonf uls 
of sifted flour ; one and a half ounces of butter ; one tea- 
cupful of water or milk; salt to taste. 

Put the flour and salt in a bowl, and add the milk, a 
little at a time, working it as smooth as velvet; put into 
a saucepan, and beat in a vessel of boiling water; stir stead- 
ily, and when it has boiled a minute or more add the but- 
ter by degrees, stirring until entirely melted and quite 
smooth ; boil one minute. 

Old-fashioned Drawn Butter, No. 2. — One and a half 
teaspoonf uls of flour wet to a paste with cold water ; two 
ounces of butter ; one small teacupful of hot water. 

Mix and cook as above. 

Onion Sauce. — Four white onions; one teacupful of hot 
milk, or, better still, cream; one teacupful of drawn but- 
ter ; salt and pepper to taste. 

Peel the onions, boil tender, drain, press, and mince fine; 
have ready the hot milk in a saucepan, stir in the onions, 
then the butter, salt, and pepper ; boil up once, and serve. 

Celery Sauce. — Two large heads of celery ; one teacup- 
ful of white bouillon or stock ; one teacupful of cream or 
milk ; salt and nutmeg to taste ; heaping tablespoonful of 
flour, and the same of butter. 

Boil the celery in salted water until tender, drain, and 
chop into small bits; thicken the stock with the flour; 
add the butter, seasoning, and milk ; stir or beat until 
smooth ; put in the celery ; heat almost to boiling, stirring 
steadily; serve in a sauce-tureen. 

Dutch Sauce. — Put one and a half tablespoonfuls of 
vinegar in a saucepan, and reduce it on the fire to one 
third ; add two ounces of butter, and the yolk of one egg; 
place the saucepan on a slow fire, stir the contents con- 
tinually with a silver or wooden spoon, and as fast as the 



SAUCES FOR MEAT AND FISH. 393 

butter melts add more, until half a pound is used ; if the 
sauce becomes too thick at any time during the process, 
add a tablespoonful of cold water, and continue stirring ; 
then put in pepper and salt to taste, and take great care 
not to let the sauce boil ; when it is made, and that is 
when the butter is all consumed, and the sauce is of the 
proper thickness, put the saucepan containing it into an- 
other filled with warm {not boiling) water until the time 
of serving. 

Cold Sauce for Fish. — Blanch and pound parsley, cher- 
vil, tarragon, pimpernel, and chives; when reduced to a 
smooth paste press through a sieve, and add the yolks of 
two hard-boiled eggs rubbed smooth ; mix well, and add, 
drop by drop, four spoonfuls of oil, two of vinegar, and 
two of made mustard ; serve in a sauceboat. 

Cold Ravigote. — Take watercresses, tarragon, chives, 
chervil, pimpernel, shallots, a clove (tiny) of garlic, the 
tender leaves of celery, basil, capers, and a few anchovies; 
chop fine, then rub to a paste ; add the yolk of a raw egg, 
a little oil, salt, and pepper, and, lastly, a little vinegar ; 
work to a smooth sauce ; you may add mustard if you w T ish 
a very piquant ravigote. 

Indian or Karl Sauce. — Put in a saucepan a lump of 
butter the size of an egg ; a coffeespoonful of cayenne 
pepper mixed with saffron (or kari) ; a soujpqon of grated 
nutmeg; two teaspoonfuls of flour; salt to taste; add 
some strong bouillon ; boil up once ; strain ; stir in a little 
melted butter, and serve. 

Hot Mayonnaise Sauce for Boiled Salmon. — For a 
sauceboatful, take the yolks of three eggs, salt to taste, 
and a sufficient quantity of the finest oil of Lucca and 
of vinegar to work it smooth ; when of the proper con- 
sistency, put it into a small earthenware casserole, and 

17* 



394 THE UNKIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

stir constantly until it begins to disintegrate ; then take 
it quickly from the fire, and beat it smooth, adding a few 
drops of cold water; then return to the fire and heat, 
stirring steadily ; do not allow it to boil ; at the last mo- 
ment, after you have taken it from the fire, add a tea- 
spoonful of mustard moistened with vinegar, and a pinch 
of roasted powdered parsley. 

Sauce Poivrade. — Chop fine a large onion and four 
shallots ; put them into a saucepan with some lean, raw 
ham, a little butter, a clove of garlic, a handful of chopped 
mushrooms, some sprigs of parsley, laurel, and thyme, 
three or four peppercorns, and some spices; cook all to- 
gether for eight minutes ; then add a glassful of good 
vinegar; cook again until the vinegar is reduced to one 
half ; add two glassf ills of Sauce Esjpagnole / let all come 
to aboil; then place the saucepan where its contents can 
only simmer ; a quarter of an hour afterwards skim it; add 
cayenne pepper to taste, and serve. 

Sauce JRavigote. — Put into a saucepan two or three tea- 
spoonfuls of chopped shallots, and six tablespoonfuls of 
vinegar ; cook until the liquid is reduced to one half ; then 
add six tablespoonfuls of white sauce, rather thick ; let 
all boil for a few seconds ; then withdraw the saucepan 
from the fire, and mix with the sauce, drop by drop, the 
quarter of a tumblerful of oil of Lucca, stirring steadily 
one way ; when smooth add a teaspoonf ul of made mus- 
tard, and a pinch each of tarragon and pimpernel chopped 
fine. 

Sauce Verte d la Venitienne. — Make a white sauce as 
usual, using fish stock instead of other stock, and also a 
glass of white wine ; pound in a mortar a handful of fresh 
parsley, and an equal quantity of chives blanched ; add 
two pickled gherkins chopped fine ; two teaspoonf uls of 
capers ; four anchovies boned and pounded to a pulp ; bind 



SAUCES EOR MEAT AND FISH. 395 

with a little melted butter, pass through a sieve, and mix 
with the sauce at the last moment. 

Sauce HoUandaise. — Use for this sauce only the fresh- 
est butter and eggs ; put one and a half tablespoonf uls of 
vinegar into a saucepan, with a pinch of salt, and a still 
smaller pinch of white pepper ; reduce this on the fire to 
one third ; withdraw the sauce from the fire ; add two 
tablespoonfuls of cold water, and the yolks of two eggs, 
from which you have carefully removed every particle of 
white; replace the saucepan on a slow fire, and stir with 
a wooden spoon, until the eggs thicken, then remove from 
the fire, add two ounces of butter, stir till it dissolves; 
then replace on the fire for one minute, and add two 
ounces of butter ; stir until it dissolves, then remove from 
the fire, and stir in two more ounces of butter; proceed 
in this order, stirring steadily, until you have used up all 
the butter; when you add butter for the third time put 
in also a tablespoonf ul of cold water; the quantity of but-' 
ter used should be half a pound ; stir smoothly and un- 
ceasingly; should the sauce be too thick, add another ta- 
blespoonful of cold water. Under no circumstances be 
induced to thicken this sauce with flour. The principle 
of HoUandaise sauce is to be composed solely of eggs and 
butter. " To my mind Sauce HoUandaise is the king of 
sauces" (Goufie). 

Roux (G-ouffe). — Roux is made with flour and butter ; it 
should be cooked on a very slow fire until it becomes pale 
brown in color. 

Put the saucepan containing the roux on the fire, moisten 
with a little water, stir continually with a wooden spoon, 
and cook over a quick fire until it begins to boil ; then set 
it back on the stove, simmer for an hour, strain, and put 
into an earthen jar. 

Green Mayonnaise. — Make a mayonnaise as usual, but 



396 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

work into it gradually a tablespoonful of powdered herbs, 
as for Sauce Bavigote and a few drops of essence of spin- 
ach. 

Sorrel Sauce. — Pick from the stalks and wash carefully 
two handfuls of sorrel, and drain, then chop it somewhat 
coarsely ; melt in a saucepan a pat of butter, mix with it 
a small tablespoonful of flour ; add the sorrel, and a half- 
pint of cream, a little stock, salt, and grated nutmeg; let 
it come to a boil, and it is ready. 

Parsley -and- Lemon Sauce. — Wash a handful of pars- 
ley, and mince it finely with the pulp and grated rind of 
a lemon; melt a pat of butter in a saucepan, mix with 
it a tablespoonful of flour, add the parsley and lemon, 
enough stock to make a sauce, a little pounded mace, and 
a few capers ; stir over the fire, and when partly cooked 
withdraw from the fire a moment, and add the yolks of 
two eggs beaten up ; heat to a boil, salt, dish, and serve. 

Shrimp Sauce. — Take half a pint of boiled shrimps, pick 
out the meat from the tails, pound the rest in a mortar with 
the juice of half a lemon and a piece of butter, and pass 
it through a sieve ; make a pint of melted butter, put 
the meat from the tails into it, add a dust of cayenne, and 
when the sauce boils stir into it the shrimp butter which 
has come through the sieve, with a tablespoonful of cream. 
Crab and lobster sauce can be made in the same way. 

Sardine Sauce. — Skin, bone, and tail twelve sardines, 
and pull them into very small pieces; chop up with them 
a shallot, a small quantity of parsley, and the grated rind 
of half a large lemon ; melt in a saucepan a pat of butter; 
mix with it a small tablespoonful of browned flour ; when 
it has taken color add the mince with enough stock to 
make good sauce ; let it boil, add salt to taste, and a soiipcon 
of grated nutmeg, and serve. 



SAUCES FOR MEAT AND FISH. 397 

Tartare Sauce. — Put the yolks of four eggs into a plate, 
then salt and mustard to taste, and a tiny pinch of white 
sugar ; work in, drop by drop, the oil, which should be of 
the finest quality ; or use thick, fresh cream instead of 
oil ; then work in the tarragon vinegar, add white pepper, 
a soupcon of cayenne, a button onion minced and mashed 
fine, and a little pickled cucumber cut fine; rub the dish 
in which it is served with garlic. 

Italian Sauce. — Mince a couple of shallots finely, and 
fry them in a little salad oil to a pale straw color ; add two 
or three mushrooms and a little parsley, both finely minced ; 
moisten with enough stock and white wine, in equal parts, 
to make the sauce ; put in, tied up together, some sweet 
herbs and a bay leaf, add pepper and salt to taste, and let 
the sauce boil for half an hour ; remove the herbs and bay 
leaf, melt a large piece of butter in a saucepan, add a lit- 
tle flour to it, stir well, and then add the sauce. 

White Lemon Sauce for Boiled Fowls. — Put the peel of 
a fresh lemon into one pint of rich, sweet cream, together 
with a sprig of lemon thyme and ten white peppercorns ; 
simmer gently until the cream tastes of the lemon ; then 
strain, and thicken it with a quarter of a pound of butter 
and one tablespoonf ul of sifted flour ; allow it to boil up 
once, and pour the juice of one lemon into it, stirring it 
well ; salt to taste. 

Sauce for Hot or Cold Boast Beef. — Grate some horse- 
radish very fine, and add a little made mustard, as much 
powdered white sugar, and four large tablespoonfuls of 
sugar, also a pinch of salt. 

Yarmouth Fish Sauce. — One pint of port wine; one 
gill of mountain wine; half a pint of fine walnut catsup; 
one gill of walnut pickle with the liquor; the juice and 
the grated rind of a large lemon ; four red-pepper pods ; 



398 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

three ounces of grated horseradish ; three blades of mace ; 
two teaspoonfuls of made mustard; two teaspoonfuls of 
sifted sugar. 

Put all the ingredients into a porcelain-lined saucepan, 
stir steadily, and simmer gently till all rawness of taste 
disappears ; then withdraw from the fire, allow it to cool, 
and put into small, wide-necked bottles ; cork tightly. 

Apple Sauce. — Pare, core, and slice some ripe, tart ap- 
ples ; stew in water enough to cover them until they break 
to pieces ; add brown sugar to taste, and a pinch of nut- 
meg ; beat to a smooth pulp, and stir in a good lump of 
butter. 

Cranberry Sauce. — Wash and pick a quart of ripe cran- 
berries, and put into a saucepan with a teacupf ul of water ; 
stew slowly, stirring often, until they are as thick as mar- 
malade ; they require at least an hour and a half to cook ; 
when you take them from the fire, sweeten abundantly with 
white sugar ; then pulp through a coarse mosquito-net into 
a mould wet with cold water. 

Peach Sauce (Old Marie's). — Soak a quart of dried 
peaches in water four hours ; wash them carefully, chang- 
ing the water two or three times ; drain and put into a 
stewpan with just water enough to cover them ; stew till 
they break to pieces, putting in, also, a little dried orange 
peel for flavoring ; rub to a soft pulp, sweeten to taste 
with white sugar, and just before taking from the fire 
stir in a tablespoonful of corn-starch moistened with cold 
water. 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, 
AND BLANC-MANGES. 

UTILES FOE MAKING CUSTARD. 

1. Always boil custard by tain-marie — that is, by put- 
ting the vessel containing the custard inside of another 
partly tilled with hot water, taking care that the water in 
the outer vessel is not deep enough to float the custard-ket- 
tle, or to boil over into it. 

2. Do not let the milk quite boil before adding the 
yolks; take the scalding milk from the fire and beat it 
gradually into the yolks, then return to the fire and boil 
gently until it thickens, stirring constantly. Allow ten or 
fifteen minutes for thickening a quart. 

3. Allow five eggs to a quart of milk, and a table- 
spoonful of sugar to each egg. For a very plain cus- 
tard allow four tablespoonfuls of sugar to the quart, and 
an egg for each cupful of milk. Custards, creams, and 
trifles that are to be frozen should have one third more 
sugar. " Floating Island " is made like plain custard, reserv- 
ing, however, all the whites for the meringue. Proceed 
according to the foregoing receipt, taking care that the 
meringue is whipped up with colored fruit jelly. 



Plain Custard. — One quart of milk; the yolks and 
whites of five eggs ; six tablespoonfuls of sugar ; flavoring 
to taste. 

Heat the milk almost to boiling, beat the yolks light, 
and stir in the sugar ; add the scalding milk to the eggs, 
in the manner directed above, stir in next the five whites 



400 THE UNRLVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

whipped very stiff, return to the fire, and stir until thick, 
but be careful not to let it break ; flavor, stir, and pour 
into cups. If you wish to make this more effective, you 
may whip the whites of two eggs to a meringue, with a 
heaping tablespoonful of powdered sugar, and drop a lit- 
tle of this on the top of each cup. 

Pistachio Custard. — Make a custard as usual, and add 
one tenth of a pound of pistachio nuts, which should be 
prepared as follows: Scald them in boiling water, and 
then peel them and pound them to a smooth paste in a 
mortar. This paste should be added to the custard be- 
fore it is put on the fire, and just before taking it from 
the fire add enough essence of spinach to give it a fine 
green color. 

German Custard.— Make a custard as usual, adding half 
an ounce of sweet almonds, blanched, roasted, and pound- 
ed to a paste, and half an ounce of pinenuts or peanuts, 
blanched, roasted, and pounded ; also a small quantity of 
candied citron cut into the thinnest possible slips ; cook 
the custard as usual, and set it on the ice for some hours 
before using. 

Polish Custard. — Take six Naples biscuits, or small 
sponge cakes; dry them in the oven, then crumble them 
fine, and roll with the rolling-pin until they are reduced 
to a powder ; moisten them with half a glassful of fresh 
cream, then add the yolks of eight eggs well beaten, and 
sweeten to taste with powdered sugar, sifted, and lastly 
four glassfuls of fresh cream, and a few drops of essence 
of bitter almond. 

Cook d bain-marie, stirring continually with a wooden 
or silver spoon until the cream thickens, but do not let it 
boil ; when of the proper consistency remove the casserole 
from the fire, pour the cream into a dish, and set it aside 
to cool; when quite cold, sift some fine sugar on the top 



CUSTAEDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, AND BLANC-MANGES. 401 

of the custard, taking care to do so very evenly, so that 
the custard is, as it were, iced; then burn this sugar by 
passing a red-hot iron spatula very lightly over it, without 
touching the custard ; if properly done, the sugar forms a 
brown, glazed crust on top of the custard. The effect is 
admirable. 

Lemon Creams. — Pare four lemons very thinly, and 
throw into twelve tablespoonf uls of water ; squeeze juice 
over eight ounces of finely powdered sugar ; well beat the 
yolks of ten eggs, add peel, water, and juice gradually, and 
strain through muslin into a stewpan. 

Stir it one way over a gentle fire until it becomes pret- 
ty thick, but do not let it boil. Serve cold in custard 
cups. 

Nesselrode Cream d la Russe. — One pint of syrup of 
loaf sugar, flavored with vanilla ; fifty line large chest- 
nuts, boiled, peeled, pounded, and pressed through a sieve ; 
one quart of fresh cream ; the yolks of twelve eggs well 
beaten. 

Moisten the strained chestnuts with the syrup, adding 
little by little the cream and the beaten yolks; when all 
these ingredients are smoothly mixed together, cook d 
tain-ma?'ie, stirring continually until the cream begins to 
thicken ; add then a piece of candied citron, sliced fine, 
one tenth of a pound of Snltana raisins, seeded and dredged, 
and a glassful of Maraschino ; add also, and lastly, a quart 
of whipped cream, and the yolks of three eggs well beaten ; 
stir continually until the cream is as smooth as velvet, and 
very thick ; then pour into a dish, and set on the ice for 
some hours before serving. 

Strawberry Cream. — Press through a sieve five ounces 
of ripe strawberries; put the pulp in a casserole with five 
ounces of sifted sugar, oner quarter ounce of powdered 
gum arabic, and a pint of good, fresh cream. 



402 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Mix all the ingredients smoothly together, then put the 
casserole on the fire, stirring continually with a wooden 
spoon until cooked. This cream may be allowed to boil, 
and is, indeed, better if allowed to boil for five minutes. 
Eat ice-cold. 

Peach Cream — is made in exactly the same way, omit- 
ting the gum arabic, and using enough cream to prevent 
the mixture from being too thick. 

Whipped Cream with Chestnuts. — Choose large, fine 
chestnuts, boil until tender, then drain, peel (removing 
outer and inner skin), and press through a colander; ar- 
range the light, feathery mass thus obtained in a pile 
in the centre of a round dish, and pour round it some 
whipped cream, sweetened and flavored with bitter al- 
monds. 

Caramel Cream. — Make a custard as usual, using burned 
sugar instead of white sugar ; sweeten to taste. 

It is impossible to measure the sugar otherwise, as 
burned sugar has less sweetening power than ordinary 
sugar. The custard so made should be of a delicate brown 
color. It is delicious. 

Solid Snow or Rahm Suite. — Bring to the boiling-point 
one quart of fresh, rich cream or milk ; pour this quickly 
over two spoonfuls of corn-flour, blended with some cold 
cream ; sweeten to taste, and allow it to boil gently, stirring 
for two or three minutes; add quickly the whites of six 
eggs, beaten to a stiff froth ; do not allow it to boil up 
more than once after adding the egg', flavor with lemon, 
vanilla, bitter almond, ratifia, or grated lemon peel ; lay 
the snow thus formed quickly in rocky heaps on sil- 
ver or glass dishes, or in shapes. Iced, it will turn out 
well. 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, AND BLANC-MANGES. 403 

Rose Cream. — Flavor one pint and a half of milk with 
essence of rose, sugar to taste ; beat up the yolks of eight 
eggs, pour the flavored milk on them, and keep on stirring 
in bain-marie until the custard thickens; melt nine sheets 
of best French gelatine in a little milk, and add this to the 
custard, together with half a pint of whipped cream, colored 
a deep pink with cochineal; pour into a mould and set on 
ice. Eat cold. 

Fried Cream. — Half a pound of butter ; four ounces of 
flour ; half a pound of sugar; one quart of sweet, rich milk 
or cream ; the yolks of four eggs. 

Melt the butter in a saucepan, stir in the flour, add the 
milk, stirring always with a wooden spoon ; set it on the fire 
twenty minutes, stirring all the time; add a little vanilla, 
and when you take it off the fire stir in the yolks of four 
eggs ; grease a dish, and pour the cream in it, and let it 
cool ; cut in little squares, dip it in beaten egg, sprinkle 
with powdered bread crumbs, and fry it in a saucepan of 
boiling olive-oil ; drain on brown paper, sprinkle with 
powdered sugar, and serve. 

Bavarian Cream. — One quart of sweet cream ; yolks 
only of four eggs ; half an ounce of gelatine or isinglass ; 
one small cupful of sugar ; two teaspoonfuls of vanilla, 
bitter-almond extract, or other flavoring. 

Soak the gelatine, in enough cold water to cover it, for 
one hour ; drain, and stir into a pint of the cream made 
boiling hot ; beat the yolks smooth with the sugar, and 
add the boiling mixture, beating in a little at a time ; heat 
again until the mixture begins to thicken, then remove it 
from the fire ; flavor it, and stir in the other pint of cream, 
which should previously have been whipped to a stiff froth ; 
beat in this, a spoonful at a time, until it is of the con- 
sistency of a sponge-cake batter ; dip a mould in cold wa- 
ter, pour in the mixture, and set on ice to form. 



404 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Dutch Cream. — Six tablespoonfuls of sifted sugar; six 
table-spoonfuls of water; six tablespoonfuls of thin vin 
ordinaire or other red wine ; six whole eggs well beaten ; 
juice and grated rind of one lemon. 

Beat all well together, cook a tain-marie, and serve ice- 
cold. 

Spanish Cream. — One quart of milk; yolks of three 
eggs; one small cupful of sugar, sifted ; half a box of 
gelatine ; bitter-almond flavoring to taste. 

Soak the gelatine an hour in the milk, put on the fire, 
and stir well as it warms ; beat the yolks very light with 
the sugar, add to the scalding milk, and heat to the boiling- 
point, stirring all the time ; strain through thin muslin : 
pour into moulds wet with cold water. 

Almond Cream. — A quarter of a pound of almonds, 
blanched, pounded to a paste in a mortar, and moistened 
with two tablespoonfuls of rose water ; yolks of three 
eggs, and whites of four (two for meringue)', four table- 
spoonfuls of sifted sugar, heaping. 

Scald the milk, add the beaten yolks, the sugar, the 
almond paste, and whites of two eggs ; boil, stirring con- 
stantly until it thickens; stir up well when almost cold, 
and pour into cups, putting on each cup a meringue made 
of the whites of two eggs, and two tablespoonfuls of pow- 
dered sugar, flavored with bitter almond. 

Tapioca Cream Custard. — Three eggs ; one pint of 
cold water; one quart of milk; five dessertspoonfuls of 
tapioca ; one heaping cupful of sugar ; a pinch of salt ; 
flavoring to taste. 

Soak the tapioca in water five hours; let the milk come 
to a boil, add the tapioca, the water in which it was boiled, 
and a good pinch of salt ; stir until boiling hot, and add 
gradually to the beaten yolks and sugar ; boil again (stir- 
ring constantly) for five minutes ; pour into a bowl, and 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, AND BLANC-MANGES. 405 

stir gently into the mixture the whites of the eggs, beaten 
to a stiff froth ; flavor, stir, and set on the ice. 

Swiss Cream. — Boil a pint of thick cream with a little 
lemon peel, finely grated ; when quite cool add the juice 
of two lemons, and sugar to taste ; pour over a quarter of 
a pound of macaroons, soaked in sherry, brandy, or red 
wine. 

Velvet Cream. — Put into a pan one ounce of isinglass ; 
half a pint of sherry, with the juice of one lemon, and half 
the rind, finely grated. 

Let all boil together until the isinglass is dissolved ; 
strain through a piece of muslin into a pint and a half of 
cream, and stir altogether one way, until nearly cold ; then 
pour into moulds which have been previously wet with 
cold water. 

Orange Fool. — Mix the juice of three Seville oranges 
with three whole eggs well beaten ; half a pint of cream, 
and cinnamon, nutmeg, and finely sifted sugar to taste. 

Set this over a slow fire, and stir one way until it be- 
comes of the consistency of melted butter. Serve ice-cold. 

Gooseberry Fool. — One quart of ripe gooseberries ; one 
large tablespoonf ul of butter ; one cupful of sugar, sifted ; 
yolks of four eggs, whipped to the utmost ; meringue of 
whites, and three tablespoonf uls of sugar. 

Stew the gooseberries in just enough water to cover 
them ; when soft and broken, rub through a sieve to re- 
move skins and seeds ; while boiling hot, whip in the but- 
ter, sugar, and yolks of the eggs ; pour into custard cups, 
drop the meringue on top, and set on ice. 

Currant Fool — is made as above, omitting the butter. 

Flummery. — Dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in one 



406 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

pint of water ; add one pint of sherry ; yolks of three eggs, 
and sugar to taste. 

Stir over the fire until the rawness of the egg is gone ; 
when nearly cold, add a little lemon juice. 

Lemon Snow. — Dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in one 
pint of water ; add one pint of lemon juice, sugar to taste, 
and the whites of four eggs, beaten to their utmost capacity. 

Stir over the fire a moment or two, then, when well 
amalgamated, withdraw from the fire, beat hard, and pour 
into moulds wet with cold water. 

Frumety. — Boil a quarter of a pint of wheat for three 
or four hours; add one quart of milk, with two spoonfuls 
of flour mixed with it, two eggs, three parts of a small tea- 
cupful of raisins and currants (both washed, seeded, chopped 
and dredged), a little lemon peel and cinnamon. 

Boil for a quarter of an hour, and serve. 

Cream Meringues. — Whites of four eggs, whipped stiff, 
with one pound of powdered sugar ; vanilla flavoring. 

Line the bottom of your baking-pan with stiff w T hite 
paper, buttered on both sides ; place on this oval tin rings 
(buttered) the size you want your meringues / when the 
meringue is very stiff, drop into the rings, which should 
be very narrow, so as just to keep the foundation of the 
meringue in shape ; have them half an inch apart ; do 
not shut the oven door closely, but leave a space through 
which you can watch them ; when they are a light yellow- 
brown, take them out and cool quickly ; slip a thin-bladed 
knife under each, scoop out the soft inside and fill with 
whipped cream. 

Apple Trifle. — Peel, core, and quarter some good tart 
apples of nice flavor, and stew them with a strip of orange 
and a strip of quince peel, sufficient water to cover the 
bottom of the stewpan, and sugar in the proportion of half 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, AND BLANC-MANGES. 407 

a pound to one pound. of fruit ; when cooked press the pulp 
through a sieve ; and when cold, dish, and cover with one 
pint of whipped cream, flavored with lemon peel. 

Quince Trifle. — Proceed exactly as for "Apple Trifle." 

Pineapple Trifle. — For this take a tin of preserved pine, 
and pound the fruit to a paste, with loaf sugar to taste ; 
add the juice, press the whole through a sieve, arrange 
in a trifle dish, and cover with whipped cream as before. 

Apricot Trifle. — Use tinned or preserved apricots, and 
proceed as above, flavoring the cream with bitter al- 
mond. 



Peach Trifle. — This is best made of fresh peaches, 
peeled, cored, and cut in quarters ; they should be well 
sugared, arranged in a trifle dish with a few of their own 
blanched kernels among them, then heaped with whipped 
cream, as above ; the cream should not be flavored ; this 
trifle should be set on the ice for at least an hour before 
serving; home-made sponge cake should be served with 
it. 

Orange Trifle. — Peel the outside rind very thin from a 
dozen oranges, and put to steep in a wide-mouthed bottle ; 
cover it with good cognac, and let it stand twenty-four 
hours ; skin and seed the oranges, and reduce to a pulp ; 
press this through a sieve, sugar to taste, arrange in a dish, 
and heap with whipped cream flavored with the orange 
brandy ; ice two hours before serving. 

* Grape Trifle. — Take two pounds of nicely flavored 
grapes, crush, sugar to taste, and let them stand two hours ; 
pulp through a sieve fine enough to keep back the stones, 
put into a trifle dish, and cover with whipped cream fla- 
vored with curagoa ; ice before serving. 



408 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Raspberry Trifle. — Use fresh raspberries, and proceed 
as with peaches ; ice, of course. 

-Coffee Blanc-mange. — One quart of sweet, rich cream ; 
one ounce of Cooper's gelatine, soaked in a cup of milk 
one hour ; four tablespoonf uls of very strong coffee ; three 
eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately ; three quarters 
of a cup of sugar, or sugar to taste. 

Heat the milk to boiling, pour in the gelatine and milk, 
and stir until dissolved, add the sugar to the beaten yolks, 
and stir until smooth, then beat in the coffee, and add the 
scalding milk very gradually, stirring all the time; return 
to the inner saucepan (all blanc-mange should be cooked a 
bain-marie) and heat gently, stirring until it almost boils; 
remove from the tire, turn into a bowl, and whip in lightly 
and briskly the beaten whites ; pour into moulds wet with 
cold water. 

Chocolate Blanc-mange. — Proceed as above, substituting 
milk for cream, and chocolate for coffee. 

Almond Blanc-mange. — One quart of milk ; one ounce 
of Cooper's gelatine soaked in boiling milk for an hour; 
three quarters of a cup of sugar ; three ounces of almonds, 
blanched and pounded in a mortar with one tablespoonful 
of rose water ; there must be at least four bitter almonds. 

Heat the milk to boiling, then add the soaked gelatine 
and the almond paste, and stir all together ten minutes 
before putting in the sugar; when the gelatine has dis- 
solved, strain the blanc-mange through a thin muslin bag, 
pressing it hard; turn into moulds wet with cold water, 
and set in a cold place. 

Ribbon Blanc-mange. — Make according to the foregoing 
receipt, and, after straining, divide into five portions, col- 
oring one green with essence of spinach, one pink with 
cochineal, one yellow with yolk of egg y and one brown 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, AND BLANC-MANGES. 409 

with chocolate; leave the fifth uncolored; when quite 
cold pour into a mould the pink first, then the green, then 
the white, then the yellow, and lastly the chocolate ; set in 
a cold place. 

Farina Blanc-mange. — One quart of rich milk; three 
eggs, well beaten, whites and yolks separately; four table- 
spoonfuls of farina wet with cold water; one cupful of 
sugar; flavoring to taste; one saltspoonful of salt. 

Heat the milk to boiling, stir in the farina and salt, and 
boil fifteen minutes before adding the yolks beaten with 
the sugar; boil two minutes longer, stirring steadily; re- 
move from the fire, beat in the whites, then the flavoring; 
pour into moulds, and set away to cool ; eat with sugar 
and cream ; the eggs and flavoring may be omitted. 

Corn-starch Blanc-mange — Is made as above, but only 
boiled five minutes before adding the yolks. 

Tapioca Blanc-mange. — One pint of rich, fresh milk ; 
three quarters of a cupful of sugar ; half a pound of tapioca 
soaked in cold water four hours ; two teaspoonf uls of bit- 
ter almonds or other flavoring; a pinch of salt. 

Heat the milk, and stir in the soaked tapioca ; when it 
has dissolved, add the sugar ; boil slowly fifteen minutes, 
stirring all the time ; take off the fire, and beat well until 
nearly cold ; flavor and pour into moulds. 

Sago Blanc-mange. — Make as above. 

Arrow-root Blanc-mange. — Three cupfuls of new milk ; 
two and a half tablespoonfuls of arrow-root wet with cold 
milk; half a cupful of sugar; flavoring to taste, and a 
little white wine. 

Mix the arrow-root to a smooth batter, with one cupful 
of the milk ; heat the rest to boiling ; add the arrow-root, 
stirring constantly ; when it begins to thicken put in the 

18 



410 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

sugar, and cook two minutes longer; remove, beat five 
minutes, flavor, and pour into moulds. 

Jaime-mange. — One ounce of Coxe's gelatine, soaked in 
half a cupful of cold water one hour ; yolks of four eggs, 
beaten very light ; one cupful of boiling water ; one cup- 
ful of white wine or pale sherry ; one cupful of powdered 
sugar; one pinch of ground cinnamon; one orange, juice, 
and half the grated peel; one lemon, juice, and one third 
the grated peel. 

Stir the soaked gelatine into the boiling water until dis- 
solved, take from the fire, and beat gradually into the 
yolks ; return to the inner saucepan with the sugar, orange, 
lemon, and cinnamon ; stir ewer a clear fire until boiling 
hot, put in the wine, and strain through a piece of tarlatan ; 
put into moulds wet with cold water, and set in a cold place. 

Calf's -foot Jelly. — Four calf's feet, cleaned carefully; 
four quarts of water; one pint of wine; sugar (loaf) to 
taste ; whites of three eggs, well beaten ; juice of one 
lemon, and half the grated peel. 

Boil the calf's feet in the water until it is reduced to 
one half ; strain, and let the liquor stand for twelve hours ; 
skim off the fat carefully, and remove the dregs; melt 
slowly in a porcelain or bell-metal kettle ; add the season- 
ing, sugar, and whipped whites ; boil fast for twelve min- 
utes, skimming well ; strain through a double flannel jelly- 
bag (i. e.) conical in shape), which must be suspended in 
some way above a deep bowl ; do not squeeze the bag, the 
slower the jelly strains the clearer it will be. 

Claret Jelly. — One bottle of ordinary red wine; the 
juice and grated rind of one lemon ; one small jar of 
red-currant jelly; half a pound of loaf sugar; one ounce 
of isinglass (more will be required in hot weather); one 
wineglassful of brandy. 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, AND BLANC-MANGES. 411 

Boil together a few minutes, taking care that the red- 
currant jelly is perfectly dissolved, and thoroughly mixed 
with the other ingredients ; usually ten minutes is enough 
for this ; strain it into a mould, and let it get cold ; serve 
with cream sauce, made as follows : To one pint of cream 
add a little grated lemon peel ; a tablespoonf ul of lemon 
juice; a teaspoonful of brandy (burned); and a sufficient 
quantity of grated and browned cake crumbs ; lady-fingers 
are best ; this sauce should be rather thick, and if properly 
made is delicious. 

Riljbon Jelly. — One quart of clear calf's-foot jelly ; half 
a teaspoonful of prepared cochineal ; half a teaspoonful of 
essence of spinach ; one cupful of white blanc-mange. 

Divide the jelly into three equal portions, coloring one 
green, the second red, and leaving the third of its natural 
pale amber; wet a mould with cold water, pour in some 
red jelly, set on the ice to harden, then pour in the am- 
ber, then green, and finally the white blanc-mange, which 
should form a broad base ; set the mould on the ice be- 
tween each layer, so that the "ribbons" may be distinctly 
set and separated ; then put on the ice, cover, and leave 
until firm. 

Orange Jelly. — Two oranges, juice of both, and grated 
rind of one; one lemon, juice and peel; one pint of boil- 
ing water ; one and a half cupfuls of loaf sugar ; one small 
cupful of white wine; one good pinch of cinnamon. 

Squeeze the juice of the fruit into a bowl, and put with 
it the grated peel and cinnamon ; pour over the boiling 
water, cover closely, and let it stand half an hour; strain, 
add the sugar, let it come to a boil, stir in the gelatine, 
and when this is well dissolved, take the saucepan from 
the fire; strain through a double flannel jelly-bag into 
moulds. 

Wine Jelly. — Two pounds of loaf sugar; one pint of 



412 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

wine, pale sherry or white wine; one pint of cold water; 
one pint of Coxe's gelatine; juice of two lemons, and 
grated peel of one ; one quart of boiling water ; one pinch 
of cinnamon. 

Soak the gelatine in the water one hour, add to this the 
sugar, lemon, and cinnamon, pour over all a quart of boil- 
ing water, and stir until the gelatine is thoroughly dis- 
solved ; put in the wine, strain through a double flannel 
bag, pour into moulds, and set in a cool place. 

Cider Jelly — Is made as above, substituting cider for 
wine. 

Bird's-Nest in Jelly ("Common-Sense in the House- 
hold"). — One quart of clear jelly; three cupfuls of white 
blanc-mange ; fresh rinds of four oranges; one cupful of 
loaf sugar ; nine empty egg-shells, or, better still, tin moulds 
exactly the shape and size of eggs. 

Make the blanc-mange and pour into the egg-shells or 
moulds ; set away in a cold place ; cut the rind from the 
oranges in long narrow strips, and stew in enough water 
to cover them until they are tender ; add a cupful of loaf 
sugar and stew fifteen or twenty minutes longer ; lay them 
out upon a dish to cool, taking care not to break them; 
the next morning fill a round glass dish two thirds full of 
jelly, reserving a cupful ; take the blanc-mange out of the 
shells, and pile in the middle ; lay the orange peel round 
them in the form of the nest ; pour the remaining jelly- 
over the straw and eggs, and set away in a cold place to 
form ; when quite firm, turn out on a round dish. Yery 
pretty. 

Prune Mould, No. 1. — Take one and a quarter pounds of 
good prunes (Provencal are the best) ; put them on the fire 
covered with cold water ; let them boil for a minute, then 
take them off, drain them, and take out the stones ; crack 
the stones, take out the kernels, and blanch them in boil- 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, AND BLANC-MANGES. 413 

ing water a minute to take off the brown skin ; dissolve 
half a packet of gelatine in cold water ; put it on the 
fire with four ounces of sugar; let it boil five minutes; 
color with cochineal and two glassfuls of red wine ; place 
the plums with a kernel on the outside of each in a mould, 
and pour in the liquid ; when set turn it out, and fill up 
the hole in the middle with whipped cream. 

Prune Mould, Xo. 2. — Half a pound of good prunes, 
two ounces of white sugar, a piece of lemon, and water 
euough to cover all. 

Stew in a saucepan till tender; remove stones; strain 
the pulp through a sieve; put back the kernels (blanched) ; 
add half an ounce of dissolved gelatine, a wineglassful 
of red wine, and boil all together; ornament a mould with 
blanched almonds; pour in the jelly and set on ice ; turn 
out, and serve cold. 



PRESERVES AND FRUIT JELLIES. 

RULES FOR PRESERVES AND FRUIT JELLIES. 

Use none but porcelain-lined preserving-kettles. 

Select tine, fresh fruit ; pick it over carefully, and be 
sure that it is quite dry. 

Use the best loaf sugar. 

Put up the preserves in rather small jars, of glass or 
stone china; cover with brahdied tissue paper pressed 
closely to the preserve ; then put on a cover of thick paper. 

Keep all preserves in a cool, dry, dark closet; watch 
them carefully for several weeks after making them, and 
if they show signs of fermentation boil them over, add- 
ing more sugar. 

Fill all preserve and jelly jars to the very top. 

If jellies are not very firm, after six or eight hours' 
standing, set the jars in the sun with bits of glass to cover 
them. This may be done day after day until the jelly is 
properly firm. 

If absolutely obliged to use a bell-metal kettle for pre- 
serving, scour it with sand just before using it; then set 
it over the fire with a cupful of vinegar and a handful of 
salt in it ; let this come to a boil, and scour the whole of 
the inside of the kettle with it ; then rinse out the kettle, 
wipe carefully, and put in the preserves ; the instant they 
are cooked, remove them from the kettle, and wash it 
clean, even though you intend to return the syrup to it in 
five minutes. 

Apricot Glacees. — Prepare exactly like peach glacees 
(page 427). They are very good. 



PRESERVES AND FRUIT JELLIES. 415 

Apricot Paste (Cuisiniere Parisienne). — Peel and stone 
the apricots, and cook in a little water until they are quite 
tender and transparent; then mash and pass through a 
hair sieve, drain dry, weigh, and pound them, in a mortar 
with an equal weight of powdered sugar ; spread the paste 
upon flat dishes to dry; after several days cut it into 
rounds, powder with sugar, dry again, and preserve in 
boxes. 

Apricot Marmalade. — Take firm, ripe apricots, stone 
and cut out the bad parts of the skin, cut in two, and put 
into a preserving-kettle in alternate layers of fruit and 
loaf sugar, allowing half a pound of sugar to each pound of 
fruit ; cook slowly three quarters of an hour, and a little 
before removing the kettle from the fire add one half of 
the kernels, blanched ; stir well, pack in pots, and when 
cold close and tie up as usual. 

Apricot Cheese — Is made precisely as you make " Quince 
Cheese " (page 420). 

Apple Ginger. — Take two pounds of pippins or other 
hard apples ; pare, core, and cut them into eight pieces, 
dropping them into cold water as they are cut ; make 
a syrup of three pounds of white sugar, a little water, 
and four ounces of ginger (or some piece ginger); stew 
the apples slowly until transparent, put them into a jar, 
and strain the juice over them. 

Apple Jelly. — Pare, core, and quarter the apples, and 
put them, together with the skins and cores, in a jar in a 
slow oven ; when quite soft, strain through a coarse mus 
lin bag, pressing hard to extract all the flavor; then add 
some lemon juice and set on the fire again, allowing to 
every pint of liquor a pound of loaf sugar, prepared as in 
the receipt for " Fruit Jellies " (page 433) ; let the jelly come 
to a boil ; then take the kettle from the fire, roll the glass- 



416 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

es in hot water, arid fill with the scalding liquid; cover 
with brandied tissue paper, and put in a cool place. 

Preserved Chestnuts. — Parboil fifty fine, large chestnuts 
until you can prick them easily with a fork ; then take 
them from the fire, peel and cleanse them thoroughly, and 
throw them into ice-cold water in which you have previ- 
ously squeezed the juice of one large lemon ; after they 
have remained in the water long enough to become slight- 
ly hardened, throw them into a syrup made of sugar, add- 
ing, at the same time, the juice of another lemon, and two 
or three teaspoonf uls of orange-flower syrup ; let all cook 
together slowly until the mixture has acquired a certain 
stiffness, when it may be removed from the fire and put 
into jars. 

Preserved Cherries. — Stong the cherries, preserving ev- 
ery drop of jnice; weigh the fruit, allowing pound for 
pound of sugar ; put a layer of fruit for one of sugar 
until all is used up ; pour over the juice, and boil gently 
until the syrup begins to thicken. The short-stem red 
cherries are best for this preserve. Sweet cherries will 
not do. 

Preserved Strawberries. — Pound for pound ; put them 
into a preserving kettle, over a slow fire, until the sugar 
melts; boil fast twenty-five minutes; take out the fruit 
in perforated skimmers, and fill small jars three quarters 
full; boil and skim the syrup five minutes longer, fill up 
the jars, and seal while hot ; keep in a cool, dry place. 

Preserved Pears. — Pare, leaving the stems on, and pre- 
serve as you preserve peaches (receipt No. 1, page 426). 

Preserved Crab Apples. — Choose for preserving the 
red Siberian crab ; pick over carefully, selecting the per- 
fect ones, leaving the stems, and put into a preserve ket- 



PRESERVES AND FRUIT JELLIES. 417 

tie with enough warm water to cover them ; heat this to 
boiling slowly, and simmer until the skins break; drain, 
and skim them, then extract the cores through the blos- 
som ends ; weigh them, allow a pound and a quarter of 
sugar and a teacupf ul of water to every pound of fruit ; 
boil the water and sugar together until the scum ceases to 
rise ; put in the fruit, cover the kettle, and simmer until 
the apples are a clear red and tender; take out with a 
skimmer, spread upon dishes to cool, add to the syrup the 
juice of one lemon to three pounds of fruit, and boil un- 
til clear and rich ; fill your jars three quarters full of the 
apples, pour the syrup in, and when cold tie up. 

Preserved Ginger. — Pare the roots of green ginger, and 
lay in cold water fifteen minutes; boil in three waters, 
changing the hot for cold every time until very tender ; 
drain, and lay in ice-water. Allow for the syrup a pound 
and a quarter of loaf sugar to every pound of ginger, and 
a cupful of water for each pound of sugar; boil and skim 
until the scum ceases to rise ; when the syrup is cold, wipe 
the ginger dry, and drop it in ; let it stand twenty-four 
hours; drain off, and reheat the syrup; this time put the 
ginger in when it is blood-warm; do not look at it again 
for two days ; then reboil the syrup, and pour over the 
ginger scalding hot; in a week drain off once more, boil, 
and add again, while hot, to the ginger; cover closely. 
It will be fit for use in a fortnight. 

Preserved Figs a la Louisiana. — The weight of ripe 
figs in sugar ; the peel of one lemon and juice of two ; a 
little ginger. 

Cover the figs with cold water for twelve hours ; then 
simmer, in water enough to cover them, until tender, and 
spread out upon a sieve to cool and harden ; make a syrup 
of the sugar and a cupful of cold water to every pound ; 
boil until free from scum, put in the figs, and simmer ten 
minutes; take them out, and spread upon dishes in the 

18* 



418 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

sun ; add the lemons and ginger, boil the syrup thick, give 
the figs another boil of fifteen minutes, and fill the jars 
three quarters of the way to the top ; fill up with the boil- 
ing syrup, cover, and when cold tie up. 

Preserved Green Gages. — Wipe the fruit with a cloth, 
and boil one pound of gages in a syrup made of water 
and half a pound of sugar; when the fruit is quite cooked 
make a fresh syrup, allowing a pound of sugar to a pound 
of fruit, and in it boil the fruit until clear ; after putting 
the fruit into the jars boil the syrup once more, and pour 
over the gages. 

Preserved Egg Plums. — Four pounds of fine egg 
plums with their stems; four pounds of loaf sugar. 

"Wash the plums in cold water, and wipe dry, carefully ; 
put the sugar on a slow fire in the preserving-kettle, with 
as much water as will melt the sugar, and let it simmer 
slowly, then prick each plum thoroughly with a needle, or 
a fork with fine prongs, and place a layer of them in the 
syrup; let them cook until they lose their color a little and 
the skins begin to break, then lift them out with a perfo- 
rated skimmer, and place them singly in a large dish to 
cool; then put another layer of plums in the syrup, and 
let them cook and cool in the same manner, until the 
whole are done ; as they cool, carefully replace the broken 
skins so as not to spoil the appearance of the plums ; when 
the last layer is finished return the first to the kettle and boil 
until transparent; do the same with each layer; while the 
latest cooked are cooling place the first in glass jars ; when 
all are done pour the hot syrup over them ; when they are 
cold close as usual ; the jelly should be of the color and 
consistency of rich wine jelly. 

Preserved Damsons. — Four pounds of damsons care- 
fully picked over and wiped ; four pounds of loaf 



PRESERVES AND FRUIT JELLIES. 419 

Put on the sugar first with a little water; when it is hot 
add the fruit and let it boil until quite red; take out the 
damsons, and put them on a dish in the sun while the 
syrup boils twenty minutes longer, then fill your jars 
nearly full with fruit, and pour in the syrup. 

Preserved Quinces (Cuisiniere Parisienne), No. 1. — 
Pound for pound of peeled, cored, and quartered quinces, 
and loaf sugar. 

Put the fruit (before paring or cutting) into cold water, 
and let it remain on the fire until scalded ; when soft, re- 
move from the fire, and let the quinces cool, then quarter, 
core, and lastly pare them ; prepare the syrup, pound for 
pound, and boil it quickly that it may not turn dark ; the 
syrup must not be allowed to jelly. 

Preserved Quinces, No. 2. — Wash and wipe the quinces, 
then weigh, peel, core, and quarter them ; put the parings 
and seeds on to boil in a little water, then put the cut-up 
quinces into a preserving -kettle with enough water to 
cover them, and let them boil until you can pierce them 
with a fork; then take them from the kettle, strain into 
the water in the kettle the water in which the parings 
and seeds have been boiled, put the parboiled quinces into 
another preserving -kettle, and to every pound (equal 
quantities) of fruit and sugar add one pint of the quince 
water; boil the quinces until clear, then take out with a 
skimmer, and put upon clean dishes to drain ; boil the 
syrup until it jellies ; if there is more quince water than 
is needed for the weight of fruit and sugar it should be 
added in the beginning, allowing a pound more of sugar 
for each pint of water; put the quinces into jars, pour the 
boiling hot jelly over them, and, when cold, close as usual ; 
if there be more jelly than suffices to cover the fruit, put 
it into separate jars ; it is very good. 

Quince Marmalade. — Pare, core, and slice the quinces, 



420 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

stewing skins, cores, and seeds in a vessel by themselves, 
with barely enough water to cover them ; when these have 
simmered long enough, strain this water through a thick 
cloth ; then put the quinces into a preserving-kettle, pour 
over them the quince water when almost cold, and boil, stir- 
ring the quinces, and mashing them with a wooden spoon 
as they become soft ; to every three pounds of fruit you 
may allow the juice of three oranges; when all is reduced 
to a smooth paste stir in a scant three quarters of a pound 
of sugar to every pound of fruit ; boil ten minutes more, 
stirring constantly ; take off, and when cool put into small 
jars ; when cold, cover and seal as usual. 

Quince Cheese—Is quince marmalade boiled down very 
thick, and packed tightly into" jars ; it will turn out firm 
as cheese. 

Preserved Apples. —Choose firm, well-flavored pippins, 
and preserve exactly as you do quinces, adding, how- 
ever, the juice of three lemons to every three pounds of 
fruit. 

Preserved Fox Grapes. — Split each grape, and take out 
the seeds, pour boiling water upon them, add a pinch of 
alum, scatter a few grape leaves among them, and cover 
close; let them stand until they become yellow, then make 
a syrup, allowing one pound of sugar to one pound of 
grapes ; drain the fruit, and put into it the boiling syrup, 
keep the kettle covered while boiling; put into jars, and, 
when cold, close and tie up as usual. 

Oranges, Whole, in Syrup. — Take six ounces of white 
sugar, one gill of water, the juice of two lemons, and the 
rind of one, and of half an orange, peeled thin. 

Boil until the syrup clarifies, and pour hot over eight 
oranges peeled to the pulp ; a little cochineal makes them 
prettier. 



PEESERVES AND FRUIT JELLIES. 421 

Florida Lemon Preserve. — Grate the lemons to break 
the oil-vessels, soak them for two days in salt and water, 
and after this for one day in fresh water; drain them well, 
and weigh them, allowing each pound of fruit one pound 
and a quarter of sugar, and one pint of water to every 
pound of sugar. 

Ogeechee Limes. — Boil the limes until soft, and push out 
quickly the head of each while hot ; then make a syrup 
of one pound of sugar to three pints of water, and boil it 
until clear; then throw in the limes, and let them boil un- 
til transparent. 

Green Sweetmeat, No. 1. — Lay as many mangoes as you 
require in strong salt water for ten days, slit them, take out 
the seeds, throw them into fresh water, and let them remain 
one or two days, then boil them in vinegar for several 
hours, after which soak them for a day or two in fresh 
water, changing the water every day, or until no vinegar 
remains ; make a syrup of ginger tea and loaf sugar, allow- 
ing three pounds of sugar to one of melon; boil for sev- 
eral hours, or until quite clear. 

Green Sioeetmeat, No. 2. — Take a thick watermelon 
rind, pare off the outer rind, cut it into any funny shape, 
and throw into a bell-metal skillet with cold water and a 
piece of alum the size of an egg to every three pounds of 
rind ; let it boil until tender, and the rind becomes of a 
pale green color, then pour off the alum, and let it stand 
in cold water twelve hours, or longer if the alum is not 
soaked out ; then weigh the rind, and to every pound of 
rind add a pound and a half of loaf sugar, and throw them 
into fresh ginger tea, a pint to the pound ; let it settle, 
and when clear add mace and lemon peel; boil it until 
sufficiently done, of which you may judge by observing if 
the sugar has penetrated the rind, taking care always to 
have syrup enough to cover the rind; let it stand some 
weeks before usincr it. 



422 THE UNKIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Beaufort Green - Orange Preserve. — Green oranges, 
plucked from the trees in September or October; grate 
(with a medium grater) all over lightly but thoroughly ; 
throw each orange, after grating it, into salt and water 
until all are grated, then, with a sharp penknife, cut a hole 
in the stem end of the orange, and cut out all the pulp in 
the centre which contains the seeds; then scoop out with 
a small silver spoon as much of the pulp as possible, with- 
out injuring the orange, which must keep its shape in- 
tact. Weigh the oranges, and to every pound allow two 
pounds of the best sugar ; measure a pint of water to a 
pound of sugar ; stir it well, and put it on the fire to boil 
until it forms a thin syrup ; put the oranges in the syrup 
carefully, one by one, and let them boil steadily but slowly 
all day ; if they boil rapidly they break ; to ascertain if they 
are done, take up one in a ladle and look at it in a strong 
light; if there are no opaque spots in it, it is done; then 
pierce with a straw ; if the straw passes through them 
easily there is no doubt. Shaddocks are preserved in the 
same manner. 

Florida- Orange Marmalade. — The large, thick-skinned, 
sour orange is the best for this marmalade. Grate the 
oranges slightly to break the oil- vessels; then peel, cutting 
the peel into long, very thin strips ; then put the peel on 
to boil, changing the water four times ; meanwhile pre- 
pare the pulp ; this is done by slitting down each fig or 
compartment of the orange with a sharp knife, and scrap- 
ing out the pulp free from skin or seeds; after the peel 
has boiled sufficiently, strain off the water, and pound 
one half of it in a mortar ; cut the other half into fine 
shreds ; mix these with the pulp, and measure it ; allow 
one pound of loaf sugar to every pint of pulp and peel 
mixed ; put it over a slow fire, stirring it constantly until 
done. 

Orange Marmalade, Dundee. — To every pound of 



PRESERVES AND FRUIT JELLIES. 423 

grated orange peel add one and a quarter pounds of sugar ; 
cut and squeeze the oranges over a strainer, and put the 
seeds into a pitcher, with a pint and a half of water, to 
stand all night; boil the peel in several waters until 
clear and almost free from bitter taste ; let all stand for 
twenty-four hours, then cut the peel into long, thin strips; 
add the sugar, with a small tumbler of water, to the jelly 
made by the seeds and juice, and boil for one hour, tak- 
ing off the scum as fast as it rises. 

Orange MarmMade, Sorrento. — Weigh the oranges, then 
grate them to break the oil-vessels ; cut them lengthwise, 
taking out the seeds and pulp ; put the skins on to boil, 
changing the water once ; when boiled tender, pound two 
thirds in a mortar, and cut the rest into narrow strips; put 
in the same quantity of sugar that the oranges weighed be- 
fore grating; wet the sugar with a little water, and let it 
come to a boil ; then put into it the juice and scraped pulp, 
the pounded skin and the chipped skin, and boil it, stir- 
ring constantly towards the last. 

St. Martin's Orange Marmalade. — Take sour Sicily 
oranges, twelve pounds; twelve pounds of sugar. 

Pare the oranges down like apples, and soak the peel in 
five or six quarts of water, until tender ; throw the water 
away, after skimming it off ; cut the peel into small strips ; 
put the sugar in a kettle, and cut the oranges in half, and 
take a small, strong spoon, and take out the juice and 
pulp, and pour it over the sugar, carefully taking out all 
the seeds ; take the white skins and throw over them two 
quarts of warm water; soak until they are soft, mash it 
through a sieve, and you will have about one and three 
quarter pounds; then take the strained pulp, the peel, the 
sugar, and the juice, and boil all together ; after it com- 
mences to boil hard, it should boil for twent}^ minutes or 
half an hour, until quite thick ; put into glasses. 



424 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Orange- and- Apple Marmalade. — Two dozen oranges, 
weighed, peeled, freed from seeds and all the tough white 
pulp ; boil the peel for half an hour, then take off all 
the white inside skin, leaving. only the thin yellow rind ; 
cut this into chips the thickness of a straw, and put them 
into cold water to extract the bitterness ; change the 
water several times; then add to the oranges one 
pound of grated apples, and the w T eight of the oranges 
in sugar, with another pound for the apples ; put them 
over a moderate fire in a preserving-kettle, throw in 
the rind chips, and let the whole cook until clear and 
thick. 

Preserved Sour -Orange Peel. — Rasp the peel w T ith a 
coarse grater to break the oil-vessels, then cut the orange 
into quarters, taking out all of the inside ; put the peel in 
brine for several days, then extract the salt by soaking 
it in fresh water several days, changing it twice a day; 
make a thin syrup and boil it down ; put in the peel, 
and boil it until you can pierce it with a straw ; when 
done, put the pieces in glass jars, with plenty of syrup; 
allow one pound and a quarter of loaf sugar to every pound 
of peel. 

Preserved Orange Blossoms. — Clean fresh orange blos- 
soms, and cut them up, mincing them rather finely ; 
sprinkle them well with lemon juice, and cook with 
finely sifted white sugar and a sufficient quantity of 
water, taking care not to throw in the orange blossoms 
until the syrup begins to froth; then let all boil togeth- 
er, beating smartly the while with a wooden spatula, 
and withdraw the casserole from the fire the moment 
the mixture begins to swell into bubbles ; it should then 
be placed in small pretty paper or porcelain boxes, or 
in small tin forms, shaped like tiny oranges, or large 
orange blossoms. From these forms it can be removed 
when cold. 



PRESERVES AND FRUIT JELLIES. 425 

Preserved Hoses. — Take fresh rose petals, dip them in 
rose water, mash them, and boil the juice with a suffi- 
cient quantity of crystallized sugar ; color this syrup with 
cochineal or extract of crimson roses, and just before tak- 
ing it from the fire dip into it, one by one, some large, 
firm, fresh rose petals ; they will candy beautifully ; when 
cold, they should be lightly dusted with finely sifted crys- 
tallized sugar. The conserve may be put into jars with 
brandied paper on the top. 

Preserved Violets. — Take the freshest and most fra- 
grant violets, and pound them in a mortar in order to 
extract the color and savor ; have ready a syrup of fine- 
ly clarified sugar ; add to this when tepid the juice of 
the violets, and a few drops of lemon juice, together 
with a very few fresh violets ; put all again on the fire 
and cook for some moments, beating or stirring hard all 
the time with a wooden spatula ; it should be withdrawn 
from the fire the moment the syrup begins to swell into 
bubbles. 

Peaches Preserved Whole. — Fifteen pounds of cling- 
stone peaches, pared, but not cut up or stoned ; seven and 
a half pounds of loaf sugar. 

Dissolve one half of the sugar in as little water as pos- 
sible ; set the kettle on the fire, and when it begins to 
simmer throw in a layer of peaches ; let them boil from 
twenty to thirty minutes ; then take them out, free from 
syrup, and lay them on a flat dish to cool ; throw in an- 
other layer, and so on until all are cooked ; after you have 
boiled two or three layers the syrup will have increased ; 
by degrees add the rest of the sugar, and, when all are 
done, boil up the syrup until a little thick ; then, as 
you take the kettle from the fire, stir in carefully and 
thoroughly half a pint of alcohol; put the peaches into 
jars ; pour on the boiling syrup, and when cold cover and 
seal as usual. 



426 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Preserved Peaches, No. 1. — Fine yellow peaches, pared 
and stoned; equal weight of loaf sugar with the pared 
and stoned peaches. 

Put a layer of loaf sugar at the bottom of a preserving- 
kettle, then a layer of fruit, and so on until the kettle is 
full ; put the kettle in a cool corner of the range until the 
sugar is dissolved ; then boil the fruit until it is clear and 
thoroughly cooked; then take out the pieces with a per- 
forated skimmer, and lay on dry dishes; boil the syrup in 
the kettle until quite thick; fill the jars half full with 
fruit, pour over the syrup, adding one quarter of the ker- 
nels which have been blanched and boiled until soft in 
enough water to barely cover them ; when cold, cover and 
close as usual. 

Preserved Peaches, No. 2. — Proceed precisely as above, 
only adding the water in which the kernels have been 
boiled to the fruit , and sugar as soon as the sugar is 
melted. 

Peach Marmalade. — Pare, stone, and weigh the fruit ; 
heat slowly to draw out the juice, stirring up often from 
the bottom with a wooden spoon. ; after it is hot, boil up 
quickly, still stirring, for three quarters of an hour ; add 
then the sugar, allowing three quarters of a pound to each 
pound of fruit; boil up well for five minutes, taking off 
every particle of scum ; add the juice of a lemon for every 
three pounds of fruit, and the water in which one fourth 
of the kernels have been boiled and steeped ; stew all 
together ten minutes, stirring to a smooth paste, and take 
from the fire ; put up in small jars, and, when cold, cover 
and close as usual. 

Peach Figs. — Pare the peaches, and cut them in half ; 
weigh them, and allow half a pound of sugar to eveiy 
pound of fruit ; put the fruit and sugar alternately into 
the kettle, and heat all gradually until the sugar is dis- 



PRESERVES AND ERUIT JELLIES. 427 

solved; then boil until clear; take the peaches out with 
a perforated skimmer, lay them on dishes, without any of 
the syrup, in the sun, and turn them frequently until dry, 
putting them on dry dishes as the syrup drains away from 
them ; when dry enough to handle, pack them in drums 
or boxes, with layers of sifted sugar, beginning and ending 
with sugar ; if you have any syrup left you may boil more 
peaches in it. 

Candied Peaches. — Four pounds of peaches, peeled 
and cut in quarters ; one pound of loaf sugar. 

Simmer sugar and peaches in a very little water, until 
a straw can pierce them ; take them from the kettle with 
a perforated skimmer, roll each piece in sifted sugar, place 
them on dishes, the pieces to lie a little apart to dry ; put 
the dishes in a sunny room — not in the sun, but where the 
air can blow over them ; turn the pieces from time to time, 
and sift a little more sugar over them ; they will take 
some days to dry and crystallize ; use mosquito netting to 
keep off the flies. 

Peach Jam. — For every pound of peaches allow three 
quarters of a pound of sugar ; pare the peaches and slice 
line ; put them on the fire in a preserving-kettle with a 
little water, about a pint to a peck of fruit ; boil quickly, 
stirring constantly to prevent burning ; when it is easily 
mashed, add the sugar ; as soon as it begins to boil again 
stir incessantly, and do not let the fire be too strong, or it 
will scorch ; stir it until it is a smooth pulp, and put it in 
wide-mouthed jars ; when cold, paste the jars up tight. 

Peach Glacees (Cuisiniere Parisienne). — Take fine 
peaches, not quite ripe, peel, and put into an earthen pot; 
pour on enough boiling water to cover them ; cover the 
pot closely, and set away for four hours ; clarify some loaf 
sugar, allowing a pound of sugar for each pound of fruit ; 
put your peaches into the syrup and let them cook until 



428 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

they are tender, but not until they break; take them out; 
put them carefully one by one into a jar ; boil down the 
syrup until thick and clear, stir into it a wineglassful of 
brandy, pour boiling hot over the peaches; cork, cover, 
and set away. 

Raisine de Raisins (Ouisiniere Parisienne). — String 
the grapes, which should be sweet and ripe, press out the 
juice, put on the fire, and boil down to a fourth of the 
quantity, stirring constantly ; when reduced so far, strain, 
replace on the fire, boil to a thick syrup, pour boiling 
hot into jars, cover with brandied paper, again with thick 
paper, and set away in a cool, dark place. 

Pineapple Marmalade. — Pare, slice, core, and weigh 
the pineapple, then cut into small bits ; make a syrup of 
a teacupf nl of water to two pounds of sugar ; melt, and 
heat to a boil ; heat the chopped pineapple in another ves- 
sel, set that in a vessel of boiling water, covering closely, to 
keep in the flavor; when it is smoking hot all through, and 
begins to look clear, add to the syrup ; boil together half an 
hour, stirring all the while until it is a clear, bright paste. 

Preserved Pineapple. — Pare, cut into slices, core, and 
weigh, allowing a pound of loaf sugar to each pound of 
fruit ; put into alternate layers in the kettle, and pour in 
water, allowing a teacupf ul to each pound of sugar; heat 
to a boil, take out the pineapple, and spread upon dishes 
in the sun ; boil and skim the syrup half an hour, return 
the pineapple to the kettle, and boil fifteen minutes ; take 
it out, pack in wide-mouthed jars, pour on the scalding 
syrup, cover to keep in the heat, and, when cold, tie up, 
first putting brandied tissue paper on the top. 

Pineapple Jam. — Twist off the top and bottom leaves 
of the pineapples, and cut them in quarters, lengthwise, 
leaving on the skins ; grate them on a coarse grater ; the 



PRESERVES AND FRUIT JELLIES. 429 

skin will enable you to hold it firmly and not waste pulp 
or juice; to every pound of the grated pulp add three 
quarters of a pound of powdered sugar; boil and stir it 
well, until it begins to look of a clear amber color ; put 
it into jars when hot, and paper them when cold. 

Paisine de Bourgoyne (Cuisiniere Parisienne). — Take 
fine, sound, sweet, ripe grapes; string, and press in a 
coarse muslin bag to expel the juice; put it on the fire 
in a porcelain-lined preserving -kettle, and boil down to 
one half the original quantity; skim and stir constantly; 
when the juice is reduced one half, put into it some fine 
pears (the Messire Jean pear is the best for this purpose), 
peeled, cored, and cut into quarters ; continue boiling un- 
til the juice is reduced to a third of the original quantity, 
the pears will then be sufficiently cooked ; pour boiling- 
hot into porcelain jars; cover each jar with a plate or 
saucer, and set for twelve hours (or during the night) in 
an oven in which you have baked during the daytime. 
This is, perhaps, the best of preserves, but it is only 
possible to make it in the South, where ripe grapes are 
sweet as honey ; if made of Northern grapes you must 
add to each ten pounds of cooked juice (i. <?., boiled 
down one half) three pounds of loaf sugar ; in this case 
it is not boiled down to so thick a syrup in the second 
boiling ; small Crecy carrots cut into quarters may be 
substituted for pears, but must be put on at the first 
boiling of the juice, as they take longer to cook than 
pears. 

Fruits Preserved in Vinegar, without Cooking {Cuisi- 
niere Russe). — Take some of the finest cider vinegar (the 
quantity must depend upon the amount of preserves you 
wish to make), throw into this vinegar some pounded loaf 
sugar, enough to reduce the vinegar to a piquant syrup, 
which is not too sour; when this is smooth and thick, put 
into it fine ripe peaches, pears, plums, etc., peeled, cored, 



430 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

and cut in quarters ; cover with brandied paper, etc., and 
set away in a cool, dry, dark place ; they will be fit for 
use in a few weeks ; the fruit should be perfectly ripe, and 
the weather dry and warm. 

Watermelon Preserve. — Lay the rind of citron melon in 
salt water for three days, and then in fresh water for the 
same time ; make a syrup, allowing a pound of loaf sugar 
to one of the rind, and let the rind lie in it all night ; then 
boil all together until clear, adding green ginger, and 
lemon peel to flavor it. 

Pink Waterinelon Preserve. — Cut the pink part of the 
melon into squares, and remove all the seeds with a pen- 
knife ; to one pound of fruit allow three quarters of a 
pound of loaf sugar, and let it stand for two hours ; then 
remove the fruit, and boil the syrup, skimming it care- 
fully, then put in the fruit; slice a lemon, and a few 
pieces of green ginger-root ; boil them until tender in a 
little water, and, when they are done, add them to the 
syrup ; boil it until the melon is tender and clear, and can 
be pierced with a straw; as soon as cool put into glass 
jars, and fasten tight ; it will be fit for use in six weeks. 

Bottled Plums, or any Fruit for Tarts. — Fill wide- 
mouthed bottles with the fruit, and as much cold water 
as they will hold, and cover them with bladder ; then put 
them into a kettle of hot water, first wrapping cloths or 
haybands round the bottles to prevent their touching ; let 
them get scalding hot, but not ooil ; then take the kettle 
from the fire, leaving the bottles in the water until it is 
quite cold again ; then dry the bottles, and put them away 
in a dry, cool, dark place. When the above directions are 
obeyed, the bottled fruit will be found excellent. This 
receipt is especially good for stoned fruit. The bladder 
used for covering the bottles should be soaked in water 
for forty-four hours beforehand. 



PRESERVES AND FRUIT JELLIES. 431 

Brandied Grapes. — Choose large, close bunches of ripe 
grapes ; wash, and dry them thoroughly with a clean cloth ; 
remove any grape that may be in the least defective ; with 
a needle prick each grape in three places ; have ready a 
sufficiency of double-refined loaf sugar powdered and sift- 
ed ; put some sugar in the bottom of a jar, then put in a 
bunch of grapes, and cover thickly with sugar ; then an- 
other bunch, then more sugar, and so on until the jar is 
nearly full, finishing with a layer of sugar; then fill up 
the jar with the best white brandy, cover as closely as pos- 
sible, and set them away. 

Brandied Cherries. — Weigh the finest Morellos, having 
cut off half the stalk ; prick them with a new needle, and 
drop them into a jar or a wide-mouthed bottle ; pound 
three fourths of their weight of rock candy, strew over, 
fill up with white brandy, and tie a bladder over. 

Brandied Peaches, Pears, or Plums. — Four pounds of 
fruit, .pared ; if plums, pricked ; four pounds of loaf sug- 
ar ; one pint of the best white brandy. 

Make a syrup of the sugar and just enough water to dis- 
solve it ; let this come to a boil, put the fruit in, and boil 
five minutes ; having removed the fruit carefully, let the 
syrup boil fifteen minutes longer, or until it thickens well, 
add the brandy, and take the kettle from the fire; pour 
the hot syrup over the fruit, and seal in glass jars. If, 
after the fruit is taken from the fire, a reddish liquor oozes 
from it, drain this off before adding the clear syrup. 

Brandied Berries. — Make a syrup of a pound of loaf 
sugar and half a gill of water for every two pounds of 
fruit; heat to boiling, stirring to prevent burning, and 
pour over the berries while warm, not hot ; cover, and let 
them stand for- an hour, put all into a preserving-kettle, 
and heat slowly ; boil five minutes, take out the fruit with 
a perforated skimmer, and boil the syrup twenty minutes ; 



432 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

add a pint of brandy for every five pounds of fruit, pour 
over the berries burning hot, and seal. 

Brandied Cherries a la Parisienne. — Take fine, red 
cherries, not very ripe ; cut off one half of the stem and 
put them into a glass jar with a small piece of cinnamon 
and a pinch of coriander seed ; add clarified sugar in the 
proportion of a pound of sugar for a pound of fruit, 
and fill up the jar with brandy, seal, and set away. They 
will be fit for use in two months. 

Rules for Canning. — Always use glass cans with good 
screw lids and gum rings. 

Use none but the best, fresh, ripe fruit. 

Roll each can in hot water before filling it, put the fruit 
or vegetable into the can scalding hot, fill to the brim, and 
screw the top on at once. 

Canned Peac/ies.—Yare the peaches, stone, and cut in 
half; as they are cut throw them immediately into glass 
jars ; have ready a cold syrup of one half pint of cold wa- 
ter to one pound of sugar; fill the jars with this syrup 
and fasten them up; put a large boiler over the fire, cover 
the bottom of it with boards, and on these set the jars of 
peaches ; fill up the boiler with cold water nearly to the 
top of the jars, and let them remain until the water boils ; 
remove them carefully, and give the lids another screwing; 
repeat the screwing in a day or two, as they sometimes slip ; 
keep in a cool, dry place. 

Canned Pears. — Use Seckel or Bartlett pears ; prepare 
a syrup, allowing a pint of water and a quarter of a pound 
of sugar to each quart of fruit ; as fast as you peel the 
pears, drop each into a pan of clear water; when the syr- 
up has come to a fast boil put in the pears carefully, not 
to bruise them, and boil until they look clear and can be 
easily pierced with a fork ; have the cans ready, rolled in 



PRESERVES AND ERUIT JELLIES. 433 

hot water, pack with the pears, fill to the brim with scald- 
ing syrup, and seal. 

Canned Damsons, Green Gages, or other Plums. — Prick 
the plums with a needle to prevent bursting; prepare a 
syrup, allowing to every three quarts of fruit a gill of pure 
water and a quarter of a pound of sugar; when the sugar 
is dissolved and the water is bloodwarm, put in the plums; 
heat slowly to a boil ; let them boil five minutes, not fast, 
fill up the jars with plums, pour in the scalding syrup un- 
til it runs down the sides, and seal. 

Canned Currants, Cherries, or any Berries. — Heat slow- 
ly to boiling in a large kettle ; when they begin to boil 
add one tablespoonf ul of sugar to each quart of fruit ; be- 
fore doing this dip out enough juice to leave the berries 
almost dry before putting in the sugar; boil all together 
fifteen minutes, and can instantly. 

Fruit Jellies. — Put the fruit on in a stone jar, place this 
in a kettle of tepid water, and set on the fire : let it boil, 
closely covered, until the fruit is broken to pieces; strain, 
pressing the bag, a stout, coarse one, hard, putting in a few 
handfuls each time, and between each squeezing turning 
it inside out to scald off the pulp and skins ; to each pint 
of juice allow a pound of loaf sugar ; set the juice on alone 
to boil, and while it is boiling put the sugar into shallow 
dishes or pans and heat it in the oven,. watching and stir- 
ring the sugar to prevent burning; boil the juice just 
twenty minutes from the time it begins fairly to boil ; by 
this time the sugar should be very hot ; throw the sugar into 
the boiling juice, stirring rapidly all the time ; withdraw 
the spoon when all is thoroughly dissolved ; let the jelly 
come to a boil to make all certain ; withdraw the kettle in- 
stantly from the fire ; roll your glasses and cups in hot wa- 
ter, and fill with the scalding liquid ; the jelly will form with- 
in an hour ; when cold close and tie up as you do preserves. 

19 



434 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Currant Jelly. — Make precisely as above. 

Green-Grape Jelly. — Make as above, but allow a pound 
and a half of sugar to a pint of juice. 

Wild- Cherry-and- Currant Jelly. — Two thirds of wild 
cherries, crushed, stones and all ; one third of red currants ; 
a pound of sugar to a pint of juice, and make as you do 
plain currant jelly. 

Black -Cap -and -Currant Jelly. — Two parts of black- 
caps, or red raspberries, and one of currants. 
Proceed as above. 

Cold Currant Jelly (Cuisiniere Parisienne). — String the 
currants and crush them in an earthen pot, taking care, 
however, not to crush the seeds; then place a fine wire 
sieve upon an earthen pot, pour currants and juice on the 
sieve, and let the juice filter through ; when they no long- 
er drip, put them into a coarse muslin bag, and squeeze out 
the remaining juice into another pot; examine the juice 
carefully, and if not perfectly clear strain again ; then 
weigh the juice, and allow two pounds of clarified sugar 
to one pound of juice ; mix and stir long and well until 
the amalgamation is perfect ; then cover the jar, and put 
it into a very cold cellar for twenty-four hours, going in, 
however, to stir it thoroughly at least three times during 
this period ; then pour into small jars holding about a 
pint, cover with brandied paper, and then with bladder, 
and put into a very cold cellar. They should not be 
touched until winter has fairly set in. This jelly is su- 
perior in flavor to any other currant jelly. 

Seeded Currants (Cuisiniere Parisienne). — String large, 
fine currants ; take up each currant carefully, and extract 
the seeds, being careful not to break the skin ; then weigh 
the fruit ; allow a pound and a half of the fines-t loaf sug- 



PRESERVES AND FRUIT JELLIES. 435 

ar to a pound of fruit ; put the sugar on the fire, allow- 
ing half a pint of water to each pound of sugar ; clarify 
this syrup with the white of an egg beaten into half a 
tumblerful of water; stir, skim, and cook slowly, sim- 
mering rather than boiling; put the currants into this, 
boil up once, and withdraw from the fire ; pour into glass 
jars, cover with bran died paper, then with thick, white 
paper, tie up and put away. 

Four-fruit Jelly. — One pound of cherries, stoned ; one 
pound of currants, strung; one pound of strawberries, 
strung; one pound of raspberries. 

Put all the fruit into a pot with four pounds of loaf 
sugar, and put over a quick fire ; boil steadily ; when the 
sugar is melted, the fruits dissolved, and the preserve be- 
gins to rise to the surface, remove the pot from the fire, 
strain through a sieve into small jars, cover with brandied 
paper, seal, and set away. The fruit may be put into oth- 
er jars as a marmalade. 

Grab- Apple Jelly. — Siberian crab apples, cut in pieces, 
but not pared or seeded ; put the fruit into a stone jar, set 
in a pot of hot water, and let it boil eight or nine hours; 
leave in the jar all night, covered closely ; next morning 
squeeze out the juice, allow pound for pint, and make as 
you do currant jelly. 

Quince Jelly. — Pare and core the quinces, and add for 
every five pounds of fruit a cupful of water ; put peelings, 
cores, and all into a stone jar; set this in a pot of boiling 
water, and when the fruit is soft and broken, proceed as 
with other jellies. 

Peach Jelly.— Fare, stone, and slice the peaches, and put 
into a jar with one third of the kernels ; heat in a pot of 
boiling water, stirring, from time to time, until the fruit 
is well broken ; strain, and to every pint of peach juice 



436 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

add the juice of a lemon ; measure again, allowing a pound 
of sugar to each pint of juice ; heat the sugar very hot, 
and add when the juice has boiled twenty minutes ; let it 
come to a boil, and take instantly from the fire. 

Ripe-Grape Jelly. — One pound of sugar to each pint of 
juice. 

Proceed as for other fruit jellies. 

Strawberry Jelly. — Dip a coarse muslin bag into cold 
water, wring out, put in the strawberries, and press and 
squeeze to expel the juice; put the juice into a pot, al- 
lowing three quarters of a pound of loaf sugar to a pint 
of juice ; cook fifteen or twenty minutes, stirring often ; 
skim, and pour into jars, cover with brandied tissue paper, 
these with thick paper, and set away. 

Rose Jelly. — Make a clear, firm apple jelly ; just as the 
jelly is about to form, color it a bright rose color with 
cochineal, and add a drop or two of essence of rose, 
enough, to give it a distinct rose flavor; stir, skim, pour 
into jars, cover as above, and set away. 

Strawberry Jam. — Three quarters of a pound of sugar 
to every pound of fruit ; one pint of red-currant juice to 
every four pounds of strawberries. 

Boil the currant juice and strawberries half an hour, 
stirring all the time ; add the sugar, and boil up rapidly 
for twenty minutes, skimming carefully ; put into small 
jars, and, when cold, close as usual. 

Gooseberry Jam. — Make as above, omitting the cur- 
rant juice, using ripe gooseberries, and boiling the fruit 
one hour before the sugar is put in, and another after; 
put up as usual. 

Raspberries Preserved Whole, — Five quarts of fine 



PRESERVES AND FRUIT JELLIES. 43V 

raspberries; pound for pound of loaf sugar — i. e., equal 
weight of sugar and fruit. 

Select from the raspberries three pints of the largest 
and finest, and set them aside ; put the remainder into a 
preserving-kettle, and set them on a moderate fire to ex- 
tract the juice; when sufficiently boiled put into a coarse 
muslin bag, and press out the juice; strain it; then put 
the sugar on to boil, with just enough water to melt it; 
when this syrup has boiled a few minutes, and all the 
scum has been removed, throw in the whole raspberries, 
and let them simmer slowly ; as soon as they begin to 
look ragged, take them out with a perforated skimmer, 
and spread upon flat dishes to cool; throw into the syrup 
the strained juice, and let it boil until nearly a jelly; then 
throw in again the whole fruit, which has been cooling; 
give it a short boiling, then remove the kettle from the 
fire, fill up the glasses, and, when cold, close as usual. 
This is a beautiful preserve. 

Raspberry Jam. — Three quarters of a pound of sugar 
to every pound of fruit; one pint of currant juice to 
every pound of fruit. 

Boil the fruit half an hour, mashing and stirring well; 
add the sugar, and cook twenty minutes more ; put up as 
you do preserves. 

Blackberry Jam. — Make as above, omitting the currant 
juice. 

Apple Jam. — Weigh equal quantities of brown sugar 
and good sour apples ; pare, core, and chop them fine ; 
make a syrup of the sugar, and clarify it very thoroughly, 
then add the apples, the grated rind of two or three lem- 
ons, and a few pieces of white ginger ; boil until the ap- 
ples look clear and yellow. 

Apple Butter. — Boil down a kettleful of cider to two 



438 THE UNEIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

thirds the original quantity ; pare, core, and slice juicy ap- 
ples, and put as many into the cider as it will cover. 
Boil slowly, stirring with a flat stick, and when the apples 
are tender to breaking, take them out with a perforated 
skimmer, draining them well; put in more apples, as 
many as the cider will hold, and stew them soft ; take 
from the fire, put all together into a large crock, cover, and 
leave twelve hours; then return to the fire and boil down, 
stirring all the while ; spice to taste ; keep in stone jars 
in a dry, cool place. 

Pear Butter. — One peck of pears, peeled, cored, and 
chopped; five pounds of sugar (soft) ; half a pint of vine- 
gar ; stir as for apple butter. 

Peach Butter. — Half a bushel of unpared peaches ; two 
quarts of best molasses. 

Stew in water first, and mash with a potato - masher ; 
stir as for apple butter. 

Tomato Butter. — Ten pounds of tomatoes, pared and 
cut up ; four pounds of brown sugar ; one quart of vinegar. 

Put the tomatoes into a preserving- kettle, add the 
sugar and the vinegar, stir all together until they become 
as thick as apple butter, stirring often to prevent burning. 



PICKLES. 

GENERAL RULES FOR MAKING PICKLES. 

Use none but the very best vinegar ; boil in porcelain- 
lined pots ; keep in hard stoneware or glass jars ; examine 
them every month, throwing away the soft ones, and, if 
they are not keeping well, drain off and scald the vinegar, 
adding a cupful of sugar for each gallon, and poor boiling 
hot over the pickles ; if, on the contrary, the pickles are 
keeping well, throw in a liberal handful of sugar for every 
gallon ; keep the pickles always covered with vinegar. 



Pickled Cabbage y White. — Two gallons of vinegar ; one 
pint of white mustard seed; four ounces of ginger; three 
ounces of peppercorns ; one ounce of allspice ; two ounces 
of cloves ; one ounce of mace ; one ounce of nutmeg ; two 
ounces of turmeric ; one large handful of chopped garlic ; 
one large handful of scraped horseradish ; four pounds of 
sugar ; two ounces of celery seed ; three lemons sliced 
fine. 

Mix all and set in the sun for three days ; peel off the 
outer leaves of the cabbage, cut in quarters, and put in a 
kettle of boiling brine ; cook three minutes ; take out, 
drain, and cover thickly with salt ; spread it out in the 
sun to dry, then shake off the salt, and cover with cold 
vinegar in which has been steeped enough turmeric to 
color it well ; leave it in this two weeks ; then pack in jars, 
pouring over them the seasoned vinegar ; this pickle must 
stand two months. 



440 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Sliced- Cucumber Pickle (" Common-Sense in the House- 
hold "). — Two dozen large cucumbers, sliced, aud boiled, in 
vinegar enough to cover them, one hour; set aside in 
the hot vinegar. For each gallon of cold vinegar allow : 
One pound of sugar ; one tablespoonful of cinnamon ; 
one tablespoonful of ginger ; one tablespoonful of black 
pepper ; one tablespoonful of celery seed ; one teaspoon- 
f ul of mace ; one teaspoonf ul of allspice ; one teaspoonf ul 
of cloves ; one tablespoonful of turmeric ; one tablespoon- 
ful of scraped horseradish ; one tablespoonful of sliced 
garlic ; half a teaspoonf ul of cayenne pepper. 

Put in the cucumbers and stew two hours. This pickle 
is ready for use when cold. 

Pickled Cauliflower (" Common-Sense in the House- 
hold "). — Take firm, white cauliflowers, and cut into sprays ; 
drop into a kettle of boiling brine, and boil three minutes ; 
take them out, lay on a sieve or cloth, sprinkle thickly 
with salt, and, when dry, brush this off; cover with cold 
vinegar for two days, setting the jar in the sun ; then pack 
carefully in glass jars, and pour over it scalding vinegar 
seasoned as follows: For each gallon of vinegar allow — 
one cupful of white sugar ; a dozen blades of mace ; one 
tablespoonful of celery seed ; two dozen white pepper- 
corns ; two small red-pepper pods chopped fine ; a table- 
spoonful of coriander seed; the same of whole mustard. 

Boil five minutes ; repeat the scalding once a week for 
five weeks ; then tie up and set away ; cover closely from 
first to last. 

Pickled Purple Cabbage. — Shred the cabbage, lay in a 
wooden tray, sprinkle thickly with salt, and set in the cel- 
lar until the next day ; drain off the brine, wipe dry, lay 
in the sun two hours, and cover with cold vinegar for 
twelve ; to enough vinegar to cover the cabbage add a cup- 
ful of sugar for every gallon, a teaspoonful of celery seed 
for every pint, and equal quantities of mace, cloves, and 



PICKLES. 441 

whole white peppers; pack the cabbage in a stone jar, 
boil the vinegar and spice five minutes and pour on hot; 
cover, and set away in a cool, dry place ; it must stand six 
weeks. 

Gherkin Pickle. — Choose small, firm, fresh gherkins; 
pack in a stone jar in layers, strewing each layer thickly 
with salt; pack the top layer out of sight in salt, and pour 
enough cold water over to cover all ; cover the jar, adding 
a weight to keep the cover down; leave in the brine — if 
it be strong enough to bear up an egg — for a month, stir- 
ring up every other day from the bottom ; when ready to 
pickle them, throw away the brine and the softened gher- 
kins if there are any, and soak the rest in cold, fresh water 
for twenty-four hours ; change the water and leave for the 
same length of time ; line the pickle kettle with green 
vine leaves, and lay the pickles evenly within it, scattering 
a very little powdered alum (in the proportion of a pigeon's 
egg to a two-gallon kettleful) over each layer; cover the 
last layer of pickles with three layers of vine leaves; cover 
closely, and steam over a slow fire iive or six hours ; when 
the pickles are a fine green, remove the leaves and throw 
the gherkins into ice-cold water, in which they must re- 
main while you prepare the vinegar; to each gallon of 
vinegar allow a cupful of sugar, three dozen of whole 
black peppers, the same of cloves, half as much allspice, 
and one dozen blades of mace ; boil five minutes ; put the 
gherkins into a stone jar, and pour over the vinegar, scald- 
ing hot; cover closely, and after two days scald the vine- 
gar, and return to the pickles ; repeat this process three 
times more, at intervals of two, four, and six days ; cover 
with a stoneware or wooden top, tie a strong cloth over 
this, and set away for two months in a cool, dry place. 

Cucumber Pickles — Are made and treated in precisely 
the same way as above. 

19* 



442 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Stuffed Bell-Pepper Mangoes — Are made as in the re- 
ceipt for Louisiana mangoes. 

String Beans and Radish Pods. — Take them just be- 
fore they change color, and treat exactly as you treat gher- 
kins and cucumbers. 

Gooseberry Chutnee, or Pidcoctis PicTcle. — Two quarts 
of unripe gooseberries, boiled in a quart of vinegar ; one 
pound of brown sugar boiled to a syrup with a pint of 
vinegar; one pound of salt; half a pound of button 
onions chopped fine ; three quarters of a pound of garlic, 
bruised and chopped ; one pound of powdered ginger ; 
half a pound of cayenne pods, chopped ; one pound of 
mustard seed, bruised ; one pound of raisins, seeded ; two 
quarts of the best vinegar. 

When the gooseberries have been boiled allow them to 
get quite cold; then put them into a large bowl, and 
gradually mix in the other ingredients and the remainder 
of the vinegar, stirring continually with a wooden spoon 
until all the ingredients are well blended together, and the 
chutnee is as smooth as velvet; put into wide-mouthed 
jars or bottles, and tie down with bladder. 

Indian Pickle, Bombay. — Take one pound of ginger, 
let it lie in water one night, then scrape, and cut it in 
slices; put it in a pot with dry salt, and let it stand until 
the other ingredients are ready ; peel and cut in pieces 
one clove of garlic, and salt it for three days, putting it 
into the sun to dry; then throw it into a gallon of the 
best vinegar placed in a strong jar, which must not be 
more than three parts full ; add to it a pound of bruised 
mustard seed, some salt dried in the sun, half an ounce 
of powdered turmeric, half an ounce of long pepper, 
half a pound of flour of mustard, half a pound of shallots, 
a few cloves, a quarter of a pound of sugar, and a little 
mace ; stir all together ; whatever articles are to be pickled 



PICKLES. 443 

must be dried in the sun ; the cauliflowers must be scalded 
in strong brine, and then peeled, cabbage cut in, celery 
and radishes scraped, French beans and asparagus salted, 
and then scalded in salt and water, and dried in the sun ; 
in this way all sorts of fruits or greens, as they come in 
season, may be added ; as the vinegar wastes add fresh. 

Indian Pickle, Calcutta. — Four ounces of curry-pow- 
der; four ounces of mustard seed; four large roots of 
garlic; half a pint of finest oil of Lucca; one ounce of 
chilies; three ounces of long pepper; three ounces of 
cloves; half an ounce of allspice; two quarts of boiling 
vinegar; mix. 

The cauliflowers, cabbage, and onions are to be prepared 
as in the above receipt, and then to be put in a Dutch 
oven before the fire for five minutes, after which they are 
to be added, and they will be fit to eat in a month. 

Pickled Beets. — Boil some beets until tender, and pare 
and slice them ; then boil as much vinegar as will cover 
them, with some mace, cloves, and peppercorns ; pour this 
over while boiling, salt to taste, and cover closely; they 
will be fit for use in twenty-four hours. 

Indian Pickle, Delhi. — Two ounces of celery seed; 
four ounces of peppercorns; six ounces of mustard seed; 
eight ounces of saffron; six ounces of pounded ginger; 
one ounce of cayenne pepper. 

Put this to steep eight days in a gallon of vinegar ; take 
any garden vegetables, cucumbers, turnips, carrots, beets, 
white or red radishes, little melons just formed, snap beans, 
little heads of cauliflower, nasturtium seeds, little lemons, 
oranges, apples, peaches, green walnuts, blanched almonds, 
or any peeled ripe nuts, and plenty of red-pepper pods ; cut 
all the vegetables you can into pretty shapes ; pour boiling 
water over them; drain them well and throw them into 
a jar of strong vinegar, and let them stand twenty-four 



444 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

hours; drain them again; strain your vinegar in which 
you have steeped your celery, mustard seed, pepper, gin- 
ger, or saffron through a cloth, pressing it hard, then filter 
it through a paper; add a bottle of sweet oil for every 
three quarts of vinegar; throw in your pickles, which 
must be carefully covered ; expose your jar several days 
to the sun, and they will be fit for use. 

To Prepare French Mustard. — Pound a quart of black 
mustard seed ; mix with it equal parts of chopped parsley, 
chevril, celery, tarragon, garlic, allspice, and cloves, six 
pounded anchovies, and salt to taste; make this into a 
liquid paste, and let it stand three or four days; then 
strain it, and put it in little earthen jars ; heat a little iron 
rod red-hot, and plunge it into each jar, and let it remain 
until it becomes cold ; this is necessary to remove the bit- 
terness and dampness of the mustard ; fill in this hole 
with vinegar; cork and seal up your jars. 

Pickled Lemons. — Scrape twelve lemons with a silver 
knife, cut them across in quarters, not quite through, give 
them as much salt as they will hold, also rub and strew it 
over them, and let them lie in an earthen dish three or 
four days, turning them every day; then take twelve, 
cloves of garlic, parboil and salt them three days, a large 
spoonful of flour of mustard, and a pinch of cayenne to 
every lemon ; take the lemons out of the salt, and put 
them into a jar with the spice, covering them with the 
best vinegar; cover the jar very closely. They will be fit 
for use in a month. Oranges may be pickled in the same 
way. 

Pickled Mushrooms. — Take a quart of the best button 
mushrooms; wash them in vinegar with a flannel; then 
take three anchovies, bone, skin, and chop them small ; 
then put them into a porcelain-lined saucepan with the 
mushrooms, a few blades of mace, a little pepper aud gin- 



PICKLES. 445 

ger, a spoonful of salt, three cloves of shallots, and as much 
vinegar as will half cover them ; stew until they shrink 
considerably ; when cold put into bottles, pour the vinegar 
over them, and cork tightly. 

Stuffed Mangoes d la Creole (Old Dominion style). — 
Gather the small green cantelopes when they are about as 
large as your fist ; cut a little slice lengthwise out of each 
one, and take out all the seed ; then put the slice back and 
tie your mango up carefully with a thread ; throw your 
cantelopes in a strong brine, in which you throw, also, all 
manner of vegetables lit for pickles — cucumbers, ground 
artichokes, little ears of corn, snap beans, green tomatoes, 
asparagus points, etc. ; leave them in this brine a month 
or six weeks ; watch carefully to sec that they do not 
become too soft; when you are ready to make your man- 
goes, take them out of the brine, and lay them two or 
three days in fresh water to remove the salt; make a 
stuffing of grated horseradish, white and black mustard 
seed and celery seed, ground mustard mixed with vinegar, 
green tomatoes, cucumbers, in fact any of the vegetables 
you have had in pickle. It is best to prepare your onions 
a day or two in advance ; slice them and pack them in salt 
to draw out all the water, then lay them in cold water to 
take out the salt; chop them up with the stuffing, add a 
teaspoonful of turmeric, and .mix all well together with 
sweet oil and powdered black pepper, and red-pepper pods, 
chopped ; stuff your mangoes with this ; be careful to sew 
in the slices you have taken out ; pack them in a two-gal- 
lon stone jar, pour a quart bottle of sweet oil over them, 
and fill up the jar with the best vinegar ; throw in a hand- 
ful of allspice and cloves, and whole red pepper ; put a 
weight on your pickles to keep them under; cover your 
jar with a cotton cloth dipped in melted beeswax and ros- 
in ; let them stand six weeks before using. 

Ever-ready Pickle. — Three quarts of the best cider or 



446 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

malt vinegar ; a quarter of a pound of ground mustard ; 
half a pound of black peppercorns ; two small red-pepper 
pods ; one ounce of cloves, whole ; a quarter of an ounce 
of allspice, whole; one ounce of brown sugar; a handful 
of salt ; a stick of horseradish, grated. 

Put all the ingredients in a porcelain-lined preserving- 
kettle, put on the fire, and allow the pickle to come to a 
boil ; remove from the fire and let the pickle cool ; when 
quite cold pour into a stone crock, and add the vegetables, 
which must be wiped dry. The vegetables need no fur- 
ther preparation, and can be put in whenever they are in 
season ; the jar should be kept closely covered. 

Easy-mixed Pickle (Old Humphrey's). — Pack into me- 
dium-sized glass jars some freshly shredded cabbage, raw 
cauliflower cut up, button onions, peeled, small red-pepper 
pods, and small cucumbers (which have lain in brine ready 
for pickling) ; sprinkle each layer with salt ; add plenty of 
mustard seed, cloves, peppercorns, and a little allspice, all 
whole; then make a pickle as above, omitting, however, 
the spices, and putting half the quantity of salt ; pour boil- 
ing hot, or as hot as the glass will bear, into the jars ; cork 
and keep in a cool, dark place. They are fit for use in six 
weeks. 

Pickled Onions (Meg Dodd's).— Take small button on- 
ions, peel them, and throw them into salt and water for 
twenty-four hours ; then put them on the fire in a porce- 
lain-lined preserving-kettle, with fresh salt and water, and 
let them come to a boil; remove from the fire, pour off 
the water, put the onions in a large crock, and pour over 
them the scalding hot vinegar, which must have been scald- 
ed with mace, whole peppercorns, red-pepper pods, spices 
(all unground), a tablespoonf nl of sugar, and salt to taste ; 
cover the crock and set away until cold, then bottle. 

Picklette (" Common-Sense in the Household "). — Four 



PICKLES. 447 

large, crisp cabbages, chopped fine ; one quart of button 
onions, chopped fine ; two quarts of vinegar, or enough to 
cover the cabbage ; two pounds of brown sugar ; two ta- 
blespoonfuls of ground mustard; two tablespoonfuls of 
black pepper; two tablespoonfuls of cinnamon; two ta- 
blespoonfuls of turmeric ; two tablespoonfuls of celery 
seed ; one tablespoonf ul of allspice, one of mace, and one 
of alum, pulverized. 

Pack the cabbage and onions in alternate layers with a 
little salt between them ; let them stand twenty-four hours; 
then scald vinegar, sugar, and spices together, and pour 
over the cabbage and onions ; repeat this for three succes- 
sive mornings; on the fourth boil all together live min- 
utes ; when cold, bottle. 

Tomato-and- Onion Pickle. — One peck of tomatoes, me- 
dium size, sliced thin ; twenty-four shallots, chopped fine ; 
a quarter of a pound of white mustard seed ; four table- 
spoonfuls of ground ginger ; three tablespoonfuls of mus- 
tard ; one ounce of whole allspice ; half an ounce of cloves; 
two tablespoonfuls of black pepper; two tablespoonfuls 
of loaf sugar. 

When the tomatoes are sliced, pack them in an earthen- 
ware jar, putting a thick layer of salt between each layer 
of tomatoes ; cover, and let them stand for twenty-four 
hours; then pour off the liquor, and put the tomatoes, on- 
ions, and spice into a large kettle in alternate layers ; cov- 
er the pickle well with vinegar, put the cover on the ket- 
tle, and cook gently ; let the pickle cook for three quar- 
ters of an hour after it has come to a boil ; if the pickle 
seems too thick, add from a quarter of a pint to a pint of 



Tomato Mustard. — One peck of ripe tomatoes, peeled 
and sliced ; six red-pepper pods ; a quarter of a pound of 
salt ; three tablespoonfuls of black pepper, whole ; three 
tablespoonfuls of white sugar; one ounce of allspice, un- 



448 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

ground ; half an ounce of mace, unground ; half an ounce 
of cloves, unground ; two onions, peeled and chopped 
fine. 

Boil the tomatoes for an hour with the red-pepper pods ; 
then strain through a colander, and add the other ingre- 
dients ; put on the fire again, and boil until quite thick; 
strain again, and set away to cool; when quite cold stir 
in carefully, a little at a time, a quarter of a pound of 
the best mustard, one teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, and 
half a pint of vinegar; bottle, and keep in a cool, dark 
place. 

Ripe-Tomato Pickle. — Two gallons of tomatoes, peeled 
and sliced; one pint of vinegar; two pounds of sugar; 
mace, cinnamon, and nutmeg-to taste. 

Put on all together, heat slowly to a boil, and simmer 
one hour; put up in glass jars. 

Green- Tomato Boy. — Two gallons of tomatoes, peeled 
and sliced ; one dozen of good-sized onions, sliced ; two 
quarts of vinegar ; one pound of sugar ; two tablespoonf uls 
of salt; two tablespoonfuls of ground mustard; two black 
peppers, ground ; one tablespoonf ul of allspice ; one table- 
spoonful of cloves. 

Mix all together and stew until tender, stirring often 
lest they should scorch ; put up in small glass jars. 

PicMed Peaches, Whole. — Ten pounds of fruit, pared ; 
four and a half pounds of sugar, white loaf; one quart 
of vinegar ; mace, cinnamon, and cloves to taste. 

Lay the peaches in the sugar for an hour, drain off ev- 
ery drop of juice, and put over the fire with a cupful of 
water; boil until the scum ceases to rise; skim, put in the 
fruit, and boil five minutes; take out the peaches with a 
perforated skimmer, and spread upon dishes to cool ; add 
the vinegar and spices to the syrup, boil fifteen minutes 
longer, and pour over the fruit in glass jars. 



PICKLES. 449 

Pickled Peaches, TJnpeeled. — Seven pounds of fruit; 
three pounds of sugar; three pints of vinegar; one table- 
spoonful each of allspice, mace, and cinnamon ; one table- 
spoonful of celery seed ; one tablespoonful of cloves. 

Hub the fur off with a coarse cloth, and prick each peach 
with a fork; heat in just enough water to cover them un- 
til they almost boil, take them out, and add the vinegar, 
sugar, and spices to the water; boil ten minutes, then put 
in the fruit and boil until tender; remove the fruit with a 
skimmer, and spread upon dishes to cool; boil the syrup 
until thick, pack the peaches in glass jars, and pour over 
them scalding hot. Un peeled pears may be pickled in the 
same manner. 

Pickled Cherries. — Take large, tart, red cherries, as 
fresh as you can get them ; to every quart of cherries al- 
low a large cupful of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
a dozen whole cloves, and half a dozen blades of mace ; put 
the vinegar and sugar on to heat with the spices ; boil five 
minutes, turn out into a covered stoneware vessel, cover, 
and let it get perfectly cold ; pack the cherries into jars, 
and. pour the vinegar over them when cold; cork tightly 
and set away; they are fit for use almost immediately. 

/Sweet Tomato Pickle. — Seven pounds of ripe tomatoes, 
peeled and sliced; three and a half pounds of sugar; one 
ounce of mixed mace and cinnamon ; one ounce of cloves; 
one quart of vinegar. 

Mix all together, and stew one hour. 

Sweet Pickled Damsons, Plums, Pears, Peaches, or 
Husk Tomatoes. — Pare peaches and pears, prick plums 
and damsons, or husk tomatoes; put into a porcelain-lined 
kettle with alternate layers of sugar ; heat slowly to a boil; 
add the vinegar and spices ; boil five minutes ; then take 
out the fruit with a perforated skimmer, and spread upon 
dishes to cool ; boil the syrup thick, pack the fruit in glass 



450 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

jars, and pour the syrup on boiling hot. To seven pounds 
of fruit allow four pounds of white sugar, one pint of 
strong vinegar, mace, cinnamon, and cloves to taste. Al- 
ways use whole spices for sweet pickle. Examine sweet 
pickle every other day for the first month, and if they do 
not keep well, set the uncovered jars in a kettle of boiling 
water, and heat the pickles to scalding-point. 



ICE-CREAM AND WATER-ICES. 

GENERAL RULES FOR ICE-CREAM MAKING. 

Good ice-cream should be made of pure cream. If 
this be unattainable, thicken the milk with arrow-root or 
corn-starch; or make a custard (not too thick, and freeze 

it). 

The best ice cream is made of the best, rich, undiluted 
cream, and the best sugar. Three quarters of a pound of 
sugar to a quart of cream is the average. 

Pack the freezer in lumps of ice and rock salt. Never 
allow the salt to come up to the level of the freezer, lest 
it should get into the cream. After the cream has been 
in long enough to become completely chilled, turn the can 
rapidly to and fro. From time to time remove the top, 
and beat and stir the cream vigorously with a long wooden 
paddle, scraping it off the sides ; pursue this course until 
the cream becomes thick ; when too stiff to beat or stir, 
cover the can securely to keep out the salt, and fill the top 
with broken ice. 

These directions apply to the old-fashioned freezer. 
But it is better to get always the latest invention. The 
present freezers beat, stir, scrape, and freeze, all at once, 
well and quickly. 

Almond Ice-cream. — Three pints of fresh, rich cream ; 
sugar to taste ; one tablespoonf ul of corn-starch, wet with 
cold water ; three ounces of sweet almonds, and one ounce 
of bitter, blanched and pounded to a paste; two table- 
spoonfuls of orange-flower water. 

Heat one pint of the cream almost to boiling, add the 



452 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

sugar, and, when this is melted, the almonds ; simmer ten. 
minutes, remove from the fire, and let it all stand ten 
minues in a covered jar; strain, return to the fire, and stir 
in the arrow-root for five minutes ; when cold, beat light 
with an egg-whip, adding gradually the rest of the cream ; 
then freeze. 

Custard Ice-cream. — Make a rich custard, flavor to taste ; 
make it sweeter than usual, and freeze. 

Pistachio Ice-cream. — Make a pistachio custard, sweeter 
than usual, and freeze. 

Caramel Ice-cream. — Make a caramel custard, very 
sweet, and freeze. 

Nesselrode Ice-cream — Is made precisely according to 
the receipt for Nesselrode cream a la Busse, but with one 
third more sugar, and frozen. 

Chocolate Ice-cream. — Two quarts of sweet cream ; half 
a pint of milk ; sugar to taste ; one third of a cake of 
chocolate, grated ; a little vanilla. 

Beat the cream until stiff, then add the milk, sugar, 
flavoring, and chocolate ; then beat again hard and long, 
and freeze, stirring until so hard that you can do so no 
longer; the more rapidly it is stirred the finer will be its 
grain. 

Coffee in Cream.— Three pints of cream ; one cupful of 
black coffee, very strong and clear; two cupfuls of sugar; 
two tablespoonfuls of arrow-root moistened with cold milk. 

Heat one half the cream to boiling, then stir in the 
sugar, and, when this is nearly melted, the coffee, then the 
arrow-root; boil five minutes, stirring constantly; when 
cold, whip as light as possible, whipping in the rest of the 
cream by degrees ; then freeze. 



ICE-CREAM AND WATER-ICES. 453 

. Ice-cream made of Milk. — Two quarts of good, rich, 
fresh milk ; two tablespoonf ills of corn flour ; sugar to 
taste ; flavoring to taste. 

Mix the corn flour to a smootli paste with a little of the 
milk, then stir in half. a pint of boiling milk; set this on 
the fire, and let the flour cook a little while ; when done, 
dilute with cold milk, stir until smooth, strain through a 
fine sieve, sweeten and flavor to taste, and freeze. 

Tutti-frutti Ice-cream. — Make a very rich custard — 
a caramel custard is best for the purpose, following the 
usual rule of making it one third sweeter than if it were 
not to be frozen — and stir in some candied fruit, chopped 
fine, regulating the quantity by the quantity of custard ; 
freeze as usual. 

Pineapple Ice-cream. — Three quarts of rich, fresh 
cream ; one pineapple ; sugar to taste ; a very little candied 
pineapple cut into thin shreds. 

Cut the pineapple into quarters, but do not peel it ; 
take each quarter by the skin, and grate it down to a fine 
pulp ; then press out the juice, mix it with the sweetened 
cream,' add also a little of the pulp and the candied pine- 
apple, sweeten again to taste, beat and stir smooth, and 
freeze. 

lemon Ice-cream. — Grate the rinds into a bowl, and put 
a tablespoonf ul or two of water upon the pulp; stir and 
mash it well, then strain it into the cream ; then squeeze 
the lemons, and add a portion of the sugar to the juice, 
and stir it into the cream; one lemon suffices for each 
quart of cream ; sugar to taste. 

Orange-Fool Ice-cream. — Make a cream as for orange 
fool, but sweeter, and freeze. 

Vanilla Ice-cream. — Cut the bean into small pieces, and 



454 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

boil it in half a teacupful of water until the flavor is ex- 
tracted ; then strain the water into the already sweetened 
cream, and mix it well ; flavor, and sweeten to taste. 

Racahout Ice-cream. — Rub the racahout smooth in a 
little cold water, stir it into one half of the cream, and 
boil it, stirring constantly ; then stir into it the remainder 
of the cream, sweeten to taste, and allow a tablespoonf ul of 
racahout to each quart of cream ; freeze as usual. 

Strawberry Ice-cream. — Two quarts of rich, fresh cream ; 
juice of one quart of fresh strawberries ; sugar to taste. 

Sweeten the cream, put it into the freezing-can, then 
mash the strawberries through a coarse sieve, strain the 
juice thus obtained through a liner sieve, and stir the juice 
into the cream ; taste, and, if not sweet enough, stir in 



Raspberry Ice-cream — Is made in the same manner as 
strawberry. 

Peach Ice-cream. — Use rich, fresh cream, and the finest 
and ripest peaches ; when the cream is sweetened, the 
peaches should be mashed into a pulp, sweetened, and 
stirred into the cream ; the quantity of peach is a matter 
of taste. 

Creme au The (Cuisiniere Parisienne). — Boil a quart of 
rich, fresh cream, and pour boiling hot upon a dessert- 
spoonful of tea (half black and half green) and upon a 
doublehandf ul of loaf sugar ; cover closely, set in a warm 
place, and, when the tea has drawn, strain the cream and 
beat into it the yolks of five eggs ; sweeten again to taste, 
beat smooth, and freeze. 

Creme a la Rose {Cuisiniere Parisienne). — Two quarts 
x>f rich, fresh cream ; sugar to taste ; rose water to taste ; 



ICE-CREAM AND WATER-ICES. 455 

cochineal in sufficient quantity to give a fine rose-color ; 
yolks of twelve eggs. 

Heat the cream boiling hot, stir in the sugar, flavoring, 
and coloring ; have ready the yolks well beaten ; add 
the cream to the yolks, little by little, stirring continu- 
ally ; strain, cook a bain-marie until it thickens, and, when 
cold, freeze. 

Cherry Ice. — One quart of cherries, and one half the 
stones, pounded; the juice of two lemons; one pint of water ; 
sugar to taste, dissolved in the water ; one claretglassful 
of finest brandy. 

Squeeze out the bruised cherries and stones over the 
sugar, add the water, then the brandy ; stir, beat, and 
freeze. 

Currant and Raspberry Ice. — One quart of red cur- 
rants ; one pint of water ; one pint of red raspberries ; 
one and a half pounds of loaf sugar. 

Squeeze out the juice, mix in the sugar and water, and 
freeze. 

Champagne Water-ice. — Rasp six lemons on a piece of 
sugar, and squeeze the lemon juice into a basin ; make it 
very sweet, then add a bottle of champagne ; dilute it with 
water, but do not make it too weak ; put it into a freezer, 
and freeze like ice-cream, beating and stirring to make it 
smooth. 

Roman Punch. — One gallon of water; one pint of 
champagne ; half a pint of French brandy ; one pint of 
old rum ; juice of two lemons ; rind of four lemons, rubbed 
on sugar. 

Sweeten to taste ; if weak, add more brandy ; freeze as 
usual. 

Concord Frozen Punch. — Squeeze the juice of six 



456 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

lemons into three quarts of water ; to each quart of water 
add three quarters of a pound of loaf sugar ; beat the 
whites of four eggs very light, and stir them into the 
lemonade ; then add a wineglassful of the best brandy 
and a wineglassful of the best Jamaica rum to each quart 
of water ; freeze as you freeze ice-cream. 

Lemon Water-ice. — Juice of six lemons to each quart 
of water; the rind of the lemon grated and steeped in a 
little water ; the water strained, and a little of this added 
to the juice, improves the flavor ; sugar to taste, always 
bearing in mind that freezing diminishes the strength of 
sugar, and that water requires more sugar than either cream 
or milk; then heat, stir, and freeze as for ice-cream. 

Orange Water-ice. — Make 'precisely as above. 

Strawberry, Raspberry, and Pineapple Water-ice. — 
Sweeten the water, put it into the freezing-can, then mash 
and stir the berries, or grate the pineapple ; press the juice 
out through muslin, add to the water in the can, sweeten 
again to taste, and freeze; allow a quart and a half of 
berries to each quart of water, and a large pineapple to two 
quarts. 

Genuine Italian Tutti-frutti Ice. — Take a large form 
for ice-cream ; have ready as great a variety of ripe fruit 
as possible, watermelon included; seed the watermelon, 
cut it into lozenges or squares; put a layer of it into the 
form, sugaring it well with granulated sugar ; then a layer 
of varied fruit ; sugar abundantly, and proceed in this way 
until the form is packed full of fruit and sugar ; cover it, 
set in bain-marie just long enough for the sugar to dis- 
solve and the juices to be started ; then let it cool, and, 
when cold, freeze. This is delicious, and is the genuine 
tutti-frutti. 



ICE-CREAM AND WATER-ICES. 457 

Vanilla Sugar. — One pound of lump sugar, and one 
ounce of Mexican vanilla beans. 

Cut the beans in small pieces, and pound in a mortar 
with the sugar until fine as flour; sift through a fine 
strainer, pound the remainder again, and sift until all is 
fine ; keep in a tightly corked bottle ; use a tablespoonful 
for a quart of ice-cream. 

20 



TEA, COFFEE, AND MADE DRINKS. 

Tea. — One teaspoonful for each person, and one for the 
pot ; scald the teapot well, put in the tea, cover the pot 
closely, and set by the fire for ten minutes or more in order 
to heat the leaves; pour on them just enough boiling 
water to cover the tea, cover the pot closely, and let it 
stand five minutes longer. Then fill up and serve. 

A more economical method is to toil the tea for a 
minute, not more ; half the quantity of tea leaves will then 
suffice. 

Coffee (Soyer). — Put one ounce of ground coffee in a 
pan, which place over the fire ; keep stirring until quite 
hot, but take care that it does not burn ; then pour over it 
quickly one quart of boiling water, close it immediately, 
keep it near the fire, and fill your cup without shaking the 
grounds. 

Or, have the coffee-pot heated, put the hot coffee into a 
strainer fitted into the coffee-pot, pour over the boil- 
ing water, and serve at once. Coffee so made is deli- 
cious. 

Russian Tea — Is made like ordinary tea, but served in 
small glasses, with thin slices of lemon floating in them. 
It is to be sugared to taste, and may be taken hot or ice- 
cold. 

Camoric Tea. — One pint of fresh milk, and the same of 
boiling water ; sweeten to taste. 



TEA, COFFEE, AND MADE DRINKS. 459 

Cocoa JSios. — One quart of boiling water ; two ounces 
of cocoa nibs ; one quart of fresh milk. 

Wet the nibs with a little cold water, add to the boiling 
water, cook one hour and a half, strain, add the milk, heat 
to boiling, and take from the fire. 

Prepared Cocoa. — One quart of boiling water; two 
ounces of prepared cocoa ; one quart of milk. 

Make as you do chocolate, only boil nearly an hour be- 
fore you add the milk, afterwards heating almost to boil- 
ing ; sweeten to taste. 

Bevolenta. — Cook as you do racahout. It can be bought 
at any pharmacy. 

Cafe au Lait. — One pint of strong-made coffee, hot ; 
one pint of boiling milk. 
Mix both boiling hot. 

Arab Baeahout. — One pound of ground rice ; one pound 
of arrow-root ; half a pound of the best chocolate, ground 
fine. 

Mix thoroughly, and keep in a jar for use; take a table- 
spoonful of racahout, and make into a paste with cold wa- 
ter or milk ; stir this paste into half a pint of boiling milk, 
and let it boil up for a minute or two ; add sugar, if de- 
sired, and take hot like chocolate. 

Chocolate. — Six tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate to 
each pint of water; an equal quantity of milk; sweeten 
to taste. 

Put on the water boiling hot ; rub the chocolate smooth 
in a little cold water, and stir into the boiling water; boil 
twenty minutes, add the milk, and boil ten minutes more, 
stirring frequently ; froth with a little milling-machine 
just before you serve. 



460 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Vienna Coffee. — The secret of preparing Vienna coffee 
consists in roasting and grinding fresh coffee every time 
it is used, then in making it in a Vienna coffee machine, 
in the regular way, and, lastly, in heating up with it fresh, 
rich cream already whipped light. 

Almond Milk. — Three dozen fresh almonds, blanched, 
and pounded to paste; two bitter almonds, blanched, and 
pounded to paste ; two lumps of loaf sugar ; one pint of 
water. 

Mix one gill of boiling water with the almonds when 
you have pounded them in a mortar; strain, return to the 
mortar, and pound with more water until you have used a 
pint in all ; sweeten to taste. A delicious beverage, but 
it does not keep long. 

Eggnogg. — One tumblerful of cream and milk, half 
and half ; one tablespoonful of Jamaica rum ; one table- 
spoonful of brandy ; one tablespoonful of powdered sugar. 

Beat the yolks of the eggs very light — first with the 
sugar, then with the whites, which must previously have 
been beaten light ; add, by degrees, the spirits and brandy, 
stirring all the time ; lastly, add the milk and cream, and 
grate nutmeg over the top. 

Fresh-milk Punch. — One glassful of rich, fresh milk ; loaf 
sugar to taste; one or two tablespoonfuls of the best brandy. 
Mix and stir well, and grate nutmeg on top. 

Lemonade. — Three dozen lemons ; four pounds of sug- 
ar ; the rind of two lemons shaved thin. 

Mix and stir well together, and add water and pounded 
ice in proportion. This quantity is for a large party. 

Orangeade. — Three dozen sour oranges ; two pounds of 
loaf sugar; the peel of two oranges shaved thin. 
Mix, and add water and ice as above. 



TEA, COFFEE, AND MADE DRINKS. 461 

Claret Punch. — One bottle of claret ; a quarter of the 
quantity of ice-water ; two lemons sliced fine ; half a tea- 
cupful of powdered sugar ; half a teacupf ul of grated pine- 
apple ; half a teacupf ul of ripe strawberries mashed fine ; 
one tablespoonful of brandy. 

Mix all the fruit together, then the sugar, then the clar- 
et, lastly the ice-water; put a large lump of ice in the 
bowl, and pounded ice in the glasses. 

Regent's Punch. — One pound of rock candy ; one large 
cupful of strong black tea (made) ; three wineglassf uls of 
brandy ; three wineglassf uls of rum ; one bottle of cham- 
pagne; two oranges, the juice only; three lemons, the 
juice only ; one large lump of ice. 

Poman Punch. — Three coffeecupfuls of lemonade, 
strong and sweet ; one glassful of champagne ; one glass- 
ful of rum ; two oranges, the juice only ; two eggs, whites 
only, well whipped ; half a pound of powdered sugar beat- 
en into the whipped whites. 

It is best always to freeze a Eoman punch. 

Mulled Cider. — One quart of cider ; eight eggs ; a few 
grains of allspice. 

If the cider is hard reduce it with water, and put it to 
boil with the allspice ; meanwhile beat the eggs light in 
a large pitcher, pour the cider on the eggs, and pour from 
one pitcher to another until it has a fine froth on it ; grate 
a little nutmeg on each glass as it is poured out. 

Beer Flip. — Put as much ale, porter, or beer as you re- 
quire into a tin can, and sweeten to taste ; heat the thick 
end of a poker, or any other piece of iron that is clean 
and convenient, red-hot, and stir the mixture with it un- 
til it ceases to bubble ; drink it hot. 

Sangaree. — One glassful of port wine ; one tablespoon- 



462 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

f ul of powdered sugar ; half a pint of porter ; grated nut- 
meg to taste. 

Sherry Cobbler. — One gill of sherry wine; one table- 
spoonful of pulverized sugar. 

Add a small quantity of any fruit in season, such as a 
small slice of pineapple, a few strawberries or cherries, or 
half a ripe peach ; then fill up the tumbler with small 
pieces of ice ; invert an empty tumbler of exactly the same 
size and put the rims together; then shake hard and long, 
and fill up the tumbler with more ice, beaten to the size 
of hailstones ; drink through a straw. If you use cham- 
pagne, use less sugar. 

Fruit Sherbets. — Mash any ripe fruit, and pass it first 
through a coarse, then through a fine, sieve; to every 
quart of juice add a quart of water, and sweeten with 
powdered sugar; when the sugar is dissolved strain again, 
and keep in the refrigerator until wanted. 

Mulled Wine. — One pint of Madeira wine ; one pint of 
hot water ; the yolks of six eggs beaten very light ; a tea- 
cupful of sweet cream ; sugar and spice to taste. 

Boil the wine and water quickly, take it from the fire, 
and stir in the eggs, sugar, spices, and cream. 

Sjpiced Wine (Florentine fashion). — One pint of ordi- 
nary red wine; one pint of hot water; stick cinnamon 
to taste; one grated nutmeg; cloves and other spices to 
taste ; sugar to taste ; a quarter of an ounce of candied 
orange peel, snipped fine. 

Boil the wine and water as above, take it from the fire, 
stir in the sugar, spices, and orange peel, and return it to 
the fire, stirring all the time ; allow it to boil up once, and 
then strain and serve. Strips of toast should be served 
with it. 



DIETARY FOR INFANTS AND 
INVALIDS. 

Food for Infants, No. 1. — Cut thin slices of bread into 
a basin ; cover the bread with cold water ; place it in the 
oven for two hours to bake ; take it out ; beat the bread 
up with a fork, and slightly sweeten it. 

Food for Infants, No. 2. — Boil the crumbs of white 
bread for two hours in water, taking care that it does not 
burn ; then add milk ; allow it to boil up once, and sweeten 
to taste. 

Food for Infante, No. 3.— Take a pound of sifted white 
flour ; put it in a cloth, tie it tightly, and let it boil for 
four or five hours ; then take off the cloth ; peel off the 
outer rind ; the inside will be found quite dry, which grate, 
and mix with boiled milk when required. 

Food for Infants, No. 4. — Bake some fine white sifted 
flour in a slow oven until it is of a delicate fawn color. 
This preparation of flour, made into gruel, is an excellent 
food for an infant. 

Food for Infants, No. 5. — Crumb some bread on a 
plate ; dry it near the fire, then roll fine, and pass through 
a sieve ; then ^>ut it in a slow oven, and bake until of a 
light fawn color ; make into gruel. 

Food for Infants, No. 6. — Two parts of baked flour ; 
one part of prepared oatmeal. 



464 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Mix thoroughly, and sift; one tablespoonful of this, 
mixed with a quarter of a pint of milk, or milk and water, 
when well boiled and sweetened with white sugar, makes a 
thick, nourishing, and delicious food for infants and in- 
valids. 

Food for Infants, No. 7. — Farinaceous food for infants, 
prepared by Herds, of Dartford, England — sold in pharma- 
cies and druggists' shops ; one tablespoonful to a quarter of 
a pint of milk, or milk and water, and well boiled ; if found 
too constipating, let it be mixed with equal parts of Rob- 
ertson's patent groats. 

Food for Infants, No. 8. — Soak for an hour some rice 
in cold water; strain, and add fresh water; then let it 
simmer until it will pulp through a sieve ; put the pulp 
and the water into a saucepan, with a lump or two of 
sugar, and again let it simmer for a quarter of an hour ; a 
portion of this to be mixed with one third of fresh milk, 
so as to make it of the consistency of good cream. 

Food for Infants, No. 9. — Excellent for relaxed bowels. 
Into five large spoonfuls of the purest filtered water rub 
smooth one dessertspoonful of fine flour ; set over the fire 
five spoonfuls of new milk, and put two bits of lump sugar 
into it ; the moment it boils, pour it into the flour and 
water, and stir over a slow fire twenty minutes. 

Food for Infants, No. 10. — In cases of great emaciation 
genuine arrow-root (to be bought at first-class druggists') 
is an excellent food ; it should be made with fresh milk, 
and sweetened with loaf sugar; a small pinch of table 
salt should be added. 

Flour Ball (for teething children). — One cupful of flour 
tied in a stout muslin bag, and dropped into cold water, 
then set over the fire ; toil three hours steadily ; turn out 



DIETARY FOR INFANTS AND INVALIDS. 465 

the flour ball, and dry in the hot sun all day, or, if you 
need it at once, dry in a moderate oven without shutting 
the door. 

To cook it, grate one tablespoonful of the flour for a 
cupful of boiling milk and water; wet the flour with a 
little cold water, stir in, and boil five minutes; add a 
pinch of salt. 

Bread and Milk. — Two tablespoonf uls of stale bread 
crumbled finely ; half a cupful of boiling milk ; a pinch 
of sugar. 

Milk Porridge. — One tablespoonful of Indian meal, 
moistened with cold water; one tablespoonful of white 
flour, also mixed with cold water ; two cupfuls of boiling 
water ; two cupfuls of boiling milk ; a pinch of salt. 

Boil the paste in the hot water twenty minutes, add 
the milk, and boil ten minutes more, stirring often. 

Mush and Milk. — One cupful of Indian meal, wet with 
cold water ; two quarts of cold water ; salt to taste. 

Boil two hours, stirring often with a wooden spoon ; eat 
hot with milk and sugar. 

Hominy and Milk. — Half a cupful of small hominy ; 
one scant quart of cold water; a pinch of salt. 

Boil one hour, stirring often ; mix in new milk, and 
sweeten while hot. This is a good food to correct con- 
stipation. 

Hecker's Farina (or Semolina) and Milk. — One cupful 
of boiling water ; one cupful of fresh milk ; one large ta- 
blespoonful of Hecker's farina, moistened with cold wa- 
ter; two teaspoonfuls of white sugar; a pinch of salt. 

Stir the farina into the boiling water (salted) in the bain- 
marie, or farina kettle ; i. e., one boiler set in another full 
of hot water ; boil fifteen minutes, stirring constantly until 

20* 



466 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

it is well thickened ; then add the milk, stirring it gradu- 
ally, and boil fifteen minutes longer; sweeten to taste. 
This is a digestible, palatable, and nourishing food for 
children. 

Wheaten Grits and Milk. — Four tablespoonf uls of grits 
(cracked wheat) soaked in cold water an hour ; one quart 
of boiling water ; one cupful of milk ; one pinch of 
salt. 

Boil the soaked grits in the water an hour, stirring con- 
stantly ; add the milk and boil half an hour longer ; sweeten 
to taste, and eat with cream. Good for constipation in 
children over a year old. 

Arrow-root and Milk. — One cupful of boiling water ; 
one cupful of fresh milk; two teaspoonfuls of best Ber- 
muda arrow -root, wet with cold water; one pinch of 
salt; two teaspoonfuls of white sugar, dissolved in the 
milk. 

Stir the arrow-root paste into the boiling water, stir and 
boil until clear; add the sweetened milk, and boil ten 
minutes, slowly stirring. You may omit the milk if nec- 
essary. 

Barley Bouillie. — Two cupfuls of boiling water; two 
tablespoonf uls of prepared barley, wet with cold water; 
one pinch of salt ; two teaspoonfuls of white sugar. 

Make as above. It can also be made with milk. This is 
astringent. 

Graham Hasty Pttdding. — One cupful of Graham flour, 
wet with cold water; one cupful of milk; one cupful of 
boiling water ; one pinch of salt. 

Stir the wet flour into the boiling water; boil ten min- 
utes, stirring constantly ; add the milk and cook, after it 
has come to a boil, ten minutes ; eat with sugar and milk, 
or nutmeg, cream, and sugar. 



DIETARY FOR INFANTS AND INVALIDS. 467 

Rice -flour Hasty Pudding. — Make as above, but with 
rice flour. 

Panada, No. 1. — One ounce of bread crumbs ; one blade 
of mace ; one pint of water. 

Boil, without stirring, till they mix and turn smooth, 
then add a grate of nutmeg, a small piece of butter, a ta- 
blespoonful of sherry, and sugar to taste. 

Panada, No. 2. — Six hard biscuits split; two table- 
spoonfuls of white sugar ; a pinch of salt ; a little grated 
nutmeg ; boiling water, enough to cover them. 

Split the biscuits, and pile in a bowl in layers, salt and 
sugar scattered among them ; cover with boiling water, 
and set on the hearth, with a close top over the bowl, for 
at least one hour ; the biscuits should be as clear and soft 
as jelly, but not broken ; eat from the bowl. 

Porridge. — Two tablespoonfuls of coarsely ground oat- 
meal, mixed smoothly with a small teacupf ul of cold water ; 
one pint of boiling water poured on ; boil and stir for forty 
minutes ; eat with milk. 

Oatmeal Flummery. — Crushed Embden grits in any 
proportion required ; put into a broad pan, cover with 
water, stir up together and let stand thirty -six hours, 
changing the water, and stirring up the oatmeal, however, 
every twelve hours; then strain through a hair sieve, and 
boil, stirring vigorously until it is quite thick ; pour it 
to cool into a dish, and eat cold with milk, or wine and 
sugar. 

Pice Milk (Gouffe). — Two and a half ounces of best 
Carolina rice blanched in plenty of water; three pints of 
milk boiled in a two-quart stewpan. 

Cool the rice with plenty of cold water, and drain ; then 
mix the rice in the milk, and stir on the fire till boiling ; 



468 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

add a quarter of an ounce of sugar, and the same of salt ; 
boil for an hour ; serve. 

Other milk soups, such as vermicelli, farina, tapioca, etc., 
are prepared in the same way. 

Bice, Boiled. — Half a cupful of whole rice boiled in 
just enough water to cover it ; one cupful of milk ; a little 
salt ; one egg beaten light. 

When the rice is nearly done, turn off the water, add the 
milk, and simmer, taking care that it does not scorch, until 
the milk boils up well ; salt, and beat in the egg ; eat 
warm, with cream, sugar, and nutmeg. 

Biscuit and Milk. — One hard sailor's biscuit, soaked 
eight hours in milk ; pour off what milk is not absorbed, 
and mix it up in a pint of new milk. 

Rice Pudding. — Two ounces of rice ; one pint of milk. 

Boil the rice in the milk, stirring until it thickens ; take 
it off and mix in well two ounces of butter, a quarter of a 
nutmeg, grated, and a moderate quantity of sugar ; pour 
into a buttered dish and bake. 

Batter Pudding. — Three teaspoonfuls of flour; one 
pint of milk ; a pinch of salt ; of powdered ginger, nut- 
meg, and tincture of saffron, each a teaspoonful. 

Boil and serve with powdered sugar. 

Unleavened Biscuit. — Mix good, dry, sifted flour with 
milk ; salt, and roll out thin as letter-paper ; cut into round 
cakes, and bake quickly. They may also be mixed with 
water. 

Arrow-root Blanc-mange. — One cupful of boiling milk ; 
two dessertspoonfuls of best arrow-root rubbed smooth in 
cold water; two teaspoonfuls of white sugar; flavor to 
taste. 



DIETARY FOR INFANTS AND INVALIDS. 469 

Boil until it thickens well, stirring all the while; eat 
cold with cream. 

Tapioca Blanc-mange. — One cupful of tapioca, washed 
well, soaked in water four hours; three cupfuls of boil- 
ing milk ; three tablespoonfuls of white sugar ; flavor to 
taste. 

When soaked, stir the tapioca, with the water in which 
it was soaked, into the boiling milk; sweeten and boil 
slowly, stirring constantly ; take off, flavor, and pour into 
moulds. 

Sea-moss Blanc-mange — Is made as you make sea-moss 
jelly, using boiling milk instead of water, and leaving out 
the lemons and wine. 

Beefsteak, or Mutton Chop, Broiled. — Choose the ten- 
derest cuts, and broil carefully over a clear, fierce fire ; salt 
and pepper (if agreeable to the invalid) ; lay between two 
hot plates three minutes, and serve. 

Cold Beef Tea. — Half a pound of fine lean beef cut 
into small pieces ; half a pint of cold spring water. 

Pour the water on the beef, and add one teaspoonf ul of 
diluted hydrochloric acid ; let it stand four hours, strain 
through a sieve, and keep in a cold place ; the whole proc- 
ess must be cold ; never warm it ; take a wineglassful three 
times a day ; a little wine can be added. This is sustain- 
ing and digestible, when all the other beef teas fail. 

Whole-Beef Tea. — For every pint of beef tea required 
take half a pound of fresh-killed beef, and remove all fat, 
sinew, veins, and bone ; let it be cut up into pieces under 
half an inch square, and soak for twelve hours in one third 
of the water ; let it then be taken out, and simmered for 
two hours in the remaining two thirds of the water, the 
quantity lost by evaporation being replaced from time to 



470 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

time ; the boiling liquor is then to be poured on the cold 
liquor in which the meat was soaked ; the solid meat is to 
be dried, pounded in a mortar, freed from all stringy parts, 
and mixed with the rest. 

When the beef tea is made daily it is convenient to use 
one day's boiled meat for the next day's tea, as thus it has 
time to dry, and is easier pounded. If agreeable to the 
invalid, a piece of green celery stalk or a small onion, a 
piece of fresh tomato or a few cloves, may be boiled in the 
beef tea. 

Quick Beef Tea. — To each pound of minced raw beef, 
one pint of water ; stir up cold, and let it stand one hour ; 
then heat a bain-marie up to 180° Fahrenheit for another 
hour over a slow fire ; strain, skim, and flavor at discre- 
tion. 

Beefand-Hen Broth. — One pound of lean beef; half 
alien, boned ; pound together in a mortar, add a quarter of 
an ounce of salt; put in a stewpan with two and a half 
pints of water, and stir over the lire till boiling ; then add 
carrots, onions, and celery at discretion ; boil for half an 
hour, strain, and serve. 

Nutrient Beef Enema (in cases where the stomach re- 
jects food). — Half a pint of good beef tea, thickened with 
a teaspoonful of tapioca. 

Or, reduce one and three quarter ounces of raw beef 
to a fine pulp, pass it through a fine colander, and mix 
the whole up with twenty grains of acid pepsin e {Bou- 
douttfs Poudre Digestive), and four grains of diastase, or 
a dessertspoonful of malt flour. It should have a bright 
rose tint, .and a rich, meaty odor; not more than a quar- 
ter of a pint should be given at once, and that slowly. 

Eel Broth. — Skin, clean, and chop into small pieces six 
small eels ; boil in a pint and a half of water, skim, and 



DIETARY FOR INFANTS AND INVALIDS. 471 

then cover and stew for forty minutes ; season, strain, and 
serve. 

Beef-and-Sago Broth. — Two pounds of lean beef cut 
into dice ; one cupful of sago soaked soft in a little luke- 
warm water ; two quarts of water ; yolks of three eggs ; 
salt to taste. 

Stew the beef to rags, strain, salt, and stir in the sago; 
simmer gently one hour, stirring often ; add the beaten 
yolks, boil up well, and serve. 

Beef Tea. — One pound of lean beef cut into dice ; put 
into a jar without a drop of water, cover tightly, and set 
in a pot of cold water ; heat gradually to a boil, and con- 
tinue this steadily for three or four hours. 

Pennington's Old Virginia Beef -Tea Tonic. — One 
pound of lean, juicy beef; half a pint of cold water; half 
a pint of old bourbon whiskey. 

Cut the beef into pieces about half an inch square ; 
pour over it half a pint of cold water, cover, and let it 
stand twelve hours ; then add half a pint of old bourbon 
whiskey, and let it stand six hours ; then strain three or 
four times until quite clear ; keep (closely covered) in a 
cool place, and take a small wineglassful two or three times 
a day. This is a capital tonic. 

Calf \s- feet Broth. — Two calf's feet; two quarts of 
cold water; one egg^ beaten up with two tablespoonfuls of 
milk for each cupful of broth ; pepper (white) and salt to 
taste. 

Boil the feet to shreds, strain through a thick muslin 
bag, season, and set by for use, warming up as you need it, 
and adding to each cupful a beaten egg and two table- 
spoonfuls of milk ; boil up once with these a teaspoonful 
of wine; or a little lemon juice may be added if agreeable 
to the patient. 



412 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK, 

Chicken Jelly (" Common-Sense in the Household "). — 
Half a raw chicken pounded with a mallet, bones and meat ; 
a quart of cold water ; heat slowly in a covered jar until the 
meat is like white rags, and the liquid reduced to one half ; 
strain and press through a sieve and coarse cloth ; salt to 
taste, return to the fire, and simmer five minutes longer ; 
when cold, skim ; keep on the ice, and serve cold with un- 
leavened wafers, or make into sandwiches with thin bread 
and butter. 

Mutton Broth, ISTo. 1. — Lean loin of mutton, one pound, 
exclusive of bone ; three pints of water. 

Boil gently until tender, throwing in a little salt and 
onion to taste ; pour the broth into a basin, and, when cold, 
skim off the fat ; warm up as wanted ; if barley or rice are 
added, they must be boiled separately until soft, and added 
when the broth is heated for use. 

Mutton Broth, No. 2. — One pound of lean mutton, cut 
into dice ; one quart of cold water ; one tablespoonful of 
rice (soaked in warm water) ; four tablespoonf uls of milk ; 
salt, and a little chopped parsley ; boil the meat, unsalted, 
in the water, keeping it closely covered until it falls to 
pieces ; strain, add the barley and rice, simmer half an 
hour, stirring often ; stir in the seasoning and milk, sim- 
mer five minutes, and serve hot. 

Chicken Broth, ~Eo. 1. — Skin, and chop up fine, a small 
chicken or half a large fowl, and boil it, bones and all, with a 
blade of mace, a sprig of parsley, and a crust of bread, in a 
quart of water for an hour, skimming it from time to time ; 
strain, season, and serve. Chicken broth poured on sippets 
laid on the bottom of the dish makes a good sauce for 
boiled chicken or partridge, when the invalid is well 
enough to be allowed solid food. 

Chicken Broth, No. 2. — Make exactly as you do mutton 
broth, cracking the bones well. 



DIETARY FOR INFANTS AND INVALIDS. 473 

Veal-and-Sago Broth.— Two pounds of knuckle of veal 
cracked all to pieces ; two quarts of cold water; two table- 
spoonfuls of best pearl sago soaked in a cupful of water; 
one cupful of cream heated to boiliug ; yolks of two eggs 
beaten light. 

Boil the veal water in a covered saucepan very slowly 
until reduced to one quart of liquid ; strain, season with 
salt, and stir in the soaked sago, having previously warmed 
it by setting it half an hour in a saucepan of boiling water, 
and stirring it; simmer half an hour, taking care it does 
not burn ; beat in the cream and eggs, boil up, and serve. 

Arrow-root Custard. — Two cupfuls of ooiling milk; 
three heaping teaspoonfuls of arrow-root moistened with a 
little cold milk ; two tablespoonfuls of white sugar beat- 
en with the egg; one egg, well beaten. 

Mix the arrow-root paste with the boiling milk, stir three 
minutes, take from the fire, and whip in the egg and sug- 
ar ; boil two minutes longer, flavor to taste, and pour into 
moulds. 

Rice-flour Milk. — Two cupfuls of toiling milk ; two ta- 
blespoonfuls of rice flour wet with cold water ; two table- 
spoonfuls of white sugar. 

Boil ten minutes, stirring all the while, and flavor to 
taste. 

Sago Milk. — Three tablespoonfuls of sago, soaked in a 
large cupful of water one hour ; three cupfuls of boiling 
milk ; sweeten and flavor to taste. 

Simmer half an hour. 

Tapioca Milk — Is made in the same way. 

Water Gruel. — One large tablespoonful of oatmeal 
mixed to a paste with cold water. 

Pour on, stirring all the time, a pint of boiling water; 



4*74 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

boil for ten minutes, stirring steadily, and strain ; eat with 
salt or sugar. 

Childress Gruel. — Half an ounce of grits ; two thirds 
of a pint of water ; one third of a pint of milk ; half an 
ounce of sugar. 

Mix and cook as above. 

Mice Gruel (somewhat astringent, in cases of diarrhoea). 
— Two ounces of ground rice ; a quarter of an ounce of 
cinnamon ; four pints of water. 

Boil for forty minutes, then add a tablespoonful of or- 
ange marmalade. 

Sago Gruel. — Two tablespoonfuls of sago; three table- 
spoonfuls of white sugar ; one wineglassf ul of white wine ; 
two cupfuls of water; one tablespoonful of lemon juice; 
nutmeg to taste ; a pinch of salt. 

Put the sago in the water while cold, and warm by set- 
ting in a saucepan of boiling water; stir often, and let it 
soften and heat for one hour ; then boil ten minutes, stir- 
ring all the time, and add the seasoning. 

Or, you may omit the wine and lemon, and eat the sago 
with a little cream. 

Milh-and- Rice-flour Gruel (astringent). — Two heaping 
tablespoonfuls of rice flour wet with cold milk ; one quart 
of boiling milk ; one saltspoonf ul of salt. 

Stir in the rice paste, and boil ten minutes, stirring all 
the while ; season with sugar and nutmeg, and eat warm 
with cream. 

White Indian-meal Gruel. — Make as above, but boil 
half an hour. 

Indian-meal Gruel. — One cupful of Indian meal, sift- 
ed ; two quarts of boiling water ; a pinch of salt. 



DIETAEY FOE INFANTS AND INVALIDS. 475 

Wet the meal to a smooth paste, and stir into the boil- 
ing water; boil slowly half an hour, stirring constantly 
from the bottom. A handful of Sultana raisins, stoned, is 
an improvement to this gruel if the patient can digest 
them. 

Tapioca Jelly. — One cupful of tapioca ; three cupf uls 
of cold water ; the juice of a lemon, and a pinch of the 
grated peel ; sugar to taste. 

Soak the tapioca in water four hours ; set within a sauce- 
pan of boiling water, and heat, stirring frequently ; if too 
thick, add a little boiling water as it begins to clear ; when 
clear, strain through coarse lace and add the sugar — or, 
better still, rock candy — and the lemon ; pour into moulds, 
and eat with cream flavored and sweetened to taste. 

Arrow-root Jelly. — One cupful of boiling water; two 
heaping teaspoonfuls of the best Bermuda arrow-root ; two 
teaspoonf uls of white sugar. 

Wet the arrow-root in a little cold water, and rub smooth ; 
then stir into the already boiling water, in which the sug- 
ar must first have been melted ; stir till clear, boiling stead- 
ily, and add the flavoring. 

Arrow-root Wine Jelly. — Make as above, but add one ta- 
blespoonful of burned brandy or three tablespoonfuls of 
burned sherry. 

Iceland or Irish Moss Jelly. — One handful of moss, 
washed in five waters, and soaked an hour ; one quart of 
boiling water; two lemons (or oranges), the juice only; 
a pinch of cinnamon; sugar to taste — rock candy is 
better. 

Soak the washed moss in a very little cold water; stir 
into the boiling, and simmer until dissolved ; sweeten, fla- 
vor, and strain into moulds. Wine may be added if de- 
sired. 



476 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Rice Jelly (excellent for children with weak bowels). — 
Half a cupful of whole rice, well washed, and soaked two 
hours in a little warm water ; then add to the rice and wa- 
ter in the kettle three pints of cold water ; one small pinch 
of salt put in the cold water ; sweeten to taste with rock 
candy when strained ; strain through double tarlatan. 

Isinglass Jelly. — One ounce of isinglass ; twelve cloves ; 
two ounces of rock candy ; one quart of water. 

Boil the isinglass and cloves in the water down to a 
pint ; strain hot through a flannel bag on the rock candy, 
and flavor with angelica root, or two or three tabiespoon- 
f uls of liqueur de la grande Chartreuse if cloves are not 
relished. 

Hartshorn or Ivory Jelly. — Half a pound of hartshorn 
shavings (not raspings, which are adulterated) ; three pints 
of water ; three ounces of white sugar candy ; one ounce 
of lemon juice. 

Boil the shavings in the water down to a pint, strain on 
the sugar candy, and add the lemon juice ; heat up again 
to boiling-point. Ivory jelly may be made in the same 
way, substituting ivory for hartshorn shavings. 

Bread Jelly. — Pare some slices of stale white bread, and 
toast them to an even light brown ; pile in a bowl, sprink- 
ling sugar and a little salt between ; cover well with hott- 
ing water, fit on a tight lid, and set in a pan of boiling wa- 
ter ; simmer gently until the contents are like jelly ; eat 
warm with powdered sugar and nutmeg. 

Dry Toast. — Pare off the crust from stale light bread, 
slice half an inch thick, and toast quickly on both sides ; 
serve hot. 

Milk Toast. — Toast as above ; dip each slice, as fast as 
toasted, in boiling water ; butter, salt slightly, and lay in 



DIETARY FOR INFANTS AND INVALIDS. 411 

a deep covered dish ; have ready in a saucepan enough 
boiling milk to cover all well ; when the toast is packed 
in the dish, salt the milk slightly, melt in a bit of butter, 
and pour over them ; cover closely, and let it stand five 
minutes before using it. 

Stewed Fruit for Young Children. — Put sliced and 
peeled apples, or plums, currants, and gooseberries, into a 
stone jar, and sprinkle among them as much brown sugar 
as is necessary ; put in a large teacupf ul of water to keep 
the fruit from burning ; slices of bread or some rice may 
be put in the jar to eat with the fruit. This is a very good 
and simple way of preparing food for children. 

Bread Collops for Children or Invalids. — Make the 
bread collops the day you roast beef; when the beef is 
ready for the spit cut out of it at intervals some thick 
slices; in the gaps made by these slices fit closely some 
thick slices of stale white bread ; fasten them by means 
of skewers, and leave them there while the beef roasts. 
They will be thoroughly soaked through with beef juice, 
and the cut slices may be broiled on a gridiron and served 
with them. 

Bread Pudding with Egg. — Two ounces of crumbs of 
bread ; half a pint of fresh milk, boiling hot. 

Pour the hot milk on the bread, cover, and leave for an 
hour; then add the yolk of an egg well beaten, a tea- 
spoonful of rose or orange flower water, a little nutmeg, 
and half an ounce of sugar; beat all together, tie up, and 
boil, steam, or bake three quarters of an hour. 

Bread Pudding without Egg. — Pour half a pint of boil- 
ing milk over two ounces of bread crumb, cover, and leave 
for an hour; then flavor to taste, beat light, tie in a cloth, 
and boil twenty minutes. 



478 THE UNEIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Bread Sauce. — The crumbs of one French roll ; half a 
pint of water ; six or eight black peppercorns ; a small piece 
of onion ; salt to taste. 

Boil till smooth ; then add a piece of butter the size of 
a walnut, and mix for use. It is good hot with hot birds, 
cold with cold birds, and is an excellent food for the 
sick. 

Brown-Bread Sauce. — Same quantity of brown-bread 
crumb as above ; half a pint of water ; six peppercorns ; 
one tomato (or more), peeled and sliced ; a small piece of 
onion ; salt to taste. 

Cook as above. 

Duke of York's Universal Sauce for Invalids. — Hard- 
dried toast pounded fine in a mortar; one tablespoonful 
of peppercorns pounded fine in a mortar; one teacupful 
of water ; one teaspoonful of salt ; one dessertspoonful of 
vinegar ; a pinch of parsley chopped fine. 

Boil the pounded toast, peppercorns, parsley, and salt 
in the water ; then add the vinegar, or tarragon vinegar, 
or lemon juice. 

Sauce au Naturel for Fish. — All fish is made more di- 
gestible by having a few drops of lemon juice squeezed 
over it. 

White Mayonnaise Sauce for Invalids. — The yolk of a 
hard-boiled egg ; a pinch of salt ; a pinch of pepper ; twelve 
teaspoonf uls of olive-oil ; two teaspoonfuls of white vin- 
egar. 

Rub the yolk to a powder with a wooden spoon ; then 
add the oil, drop by drop, stirring steadily all the time; 
then the vinegar and salt. 

Egg Soup. — Yolks of two eggs; one pint of water; 
butter, a lump as large as a walnut ; sugar to taste. 



DIETARY FOR INFANTS AND INVALIDS. 479 

Beat up over a slow fire, gradually adding the water; 
when it begins to boil, pour it backwards and forwards 
between the vessels, until it is smooth and frothy. 

Soup Meagre. — Half a pound of butter ; six medium- 
sized onions peeled and cut small; one bunch of celery 
cut in pieces an inch long; one handful of spinach cut 
small ; one bundle of parsley chopped fine ; a very little 
flour ; two quarts of boiling water ; a handful of dry bread 
crust broken fine ; a teaspoonful of pepper ; salt to taste ; 
three blades of mace beaten fine ; yolks of two eggs 
beaten light; one teaspoonful of vinegar. 

When the butter is melted throw in the onions, stir 
and shake well ; then sprinkle in the celery, spinach, and 
parsley, and shake for a quarter of an hour ; then sprinkle 
in the flour, and stir well; pour on the boiling water, add 
the bread crust, salt, pepper, and mace ; boil gently another 
half-hour ; then beat up the eggs and vinegar, stir in, and 
the soup is ready. 

Bread Soup. — Take the crust of a stale roll, cut it in 
pieces, and boil well in a pint of water with a piece of 
butter the size of a walnut, stirring and beating until the 
bread is mixed ; season with celery and salt. 

Spinach Soup. — One and a half pounds of fresh spin- 
ach, picked, washed, and chopped ; four ounces of fresh 
butter ; one ounce of sifted flour ; two quarts of chicken 
broth ; one teaspoonful of cream. 

Put the spinach and butter into a three-quart stewpan, 
stir over the fire for five minutes, add the flour, and stir 
again three or four minutes; then stir in two quarts of 
chicken broth, till it boils ; simmer on a cool stove for 
half an hour, and add the cream. Endive or lettuce soup 
may be prepared the same way. 

InvalicVs Toasted Cheese, — Quite new cheese cut into 



480 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

thin slices, buttered, and. basted while toasting with a little 
cream ; let it be brought up on a hot- water plate, and 
eaten with a little stale bread. This dish is delicious, but 
should never be eaten by an invalid without the doctor's 
permission. 

Lettuce with Gravy (Gouffe). — Eight round and full 
cabbage lettuce ; three pinches of salt ; one fagot, or 
sweet bunch, consisting of parsley, thyme, and a bay 
leaf; one onion, with two cloves stuck into it; enough 
broth to cover the lettuce ; two gills of stock-pot fat. 

Trim off all the outside leaves of the lettuce, wash, and 
blanch ten minutes, cool well, squeeze out the water, cut 
them in two, lay them open on a dish, and season ; tie the 
halves together, and put in a two-quart saucepan ; cover 
with broth, and add the other ingredients as above ; place 
a round of paper on top, and simmer for two hours ; when 
cooked, drain on a cloth until dry, and open the lettuce, 
cut the stalks out, anpl fold the leaves round, and dish them 
in a circle ; reduce one pint of household gravy to half the 
quantity, pour over the lettuce, and serve ; thin slices of 
crumb of bread, cut in the shape of lettuce, can be put 
in at intervals. 

Invalids Mashed Potato. — Boil one pound of potatoes 
in their jackets, until they are tender; peel them, rub 
them through a fine sieve ; when cool, add a small teacup- 
f ul of cream and a little salt, beating the puree up light- 
ly until it is quite smooth, and warm again before eat- 
ing. 

Invalid's Potato Surprise. — Scoop out the inside of a 
sound potato, leaving the skin attached on one side to the 
hole, as a lid ; mince up fine the lean of a juicy mutton 
chop, with a little salt and pepper; put into the potato, 
fasten the lid, and bake or roast; before serving add a 
little hot gravy if the mince seems too dry. 



DIETARY FOR INFANTS AND INVALIDS. 481 

Boiled Pigeon or Partridge. — Clean and season the 
bird, enclose it in puff paste, and boil; serve in its own 
gravy, supplemented by the liver rubbed up with some 
stock, and do not forget the bread sauce. 

Boiled Flounders. — Put the flounders in a stewpan, 
with a moderate quantity of boiling water, seasoned with 
a little salt; take off the scum, and continue the boiling 
ten minutes ; drain the fish, squeeze some lemon juice 
over, and serve. 



DRINKS FOR INVALIDS. 

Invalid's Eggnog. — Best French brandy, four ounces; 
cinnamon water, four ounces ; yolks of two eggs ; sugar, 
half an ounce. 

Rub the sugar and egg yolk together, then add the 
rest. 

Malt Tea (nutrient in cases where the mouth is very 
dry). — Boil three ounces of malt in a quart of water. 

Alkaline Drink (good in cases of inflammation). — 
The thin rind of a lemon ; one tablespoonful of powdered 
rock candy; enough boiling water to dissolve the sugar; 
half a pint of Vichy water, and half a pint of common 
water. 

White Drink ^Decoction Blanche"). — Good in cases 
of inflammation. Burnt hartshorn, powdered, two ounces; 
gum arabic, an ounce and a half ; water, three pints. 

Boil down to a pint, strain, and sugar. 

Barley Water. — Wash two ounces of pearl barley with 
cold water, then boil it for five minutes in some fresh 
water, and throw both waters away ; then pour on two 

21 



482 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

quarts of boiling water, and boil it down to a quart; flavor- 
with thinly cut lemon rind, and sugar to taste, but do not 
strain except at the patient's special request. 

Bael Drink (good in dysentery and diarrhoea). — The 
liquid extract of unripe bael fruit (liquor belac), one or 
two tablespoonfuls to a pint of water. 

Alum Whey (good in diarrhoea). — One quart of new 
milk ; quarter of an ounce of alum. Make as rennet 
whey. 

Almond Drink (softening and nutritive to the lungs). 
— Two ounces of compound powder of almonds (can be 
bought at any druggist's) ; one pint of water. 

Rub the almond powder well into the water. 

Claret Cup for Invalids. — Six drops of sweet spirits 
of nitre, put into the jug first ; half a bottle of claret ; 
one bottle of soda water. 

Slippery -Elm- Bark Tea. — Break the bark into bits, 
pour boiling water over it, cover, and let it infuse until 
cold ; sweeten and ice ; good for summer disorders, and 
also for bad colds. 

Milk Punch for Invalids. — One tumbler of milk, 
well sweetened ; two tablespoonfuls of best brandy, well 
stirred in. 

Egg and Milk Punch — Is made as above, adding an 
egg beaten light with the sugar, and stirred in before the 
brandy is added. 

Sangaree or Porteree. — One third wine or porter to 
two thirds water ; sweeten to taste, and add grated nut- 
meg:. This is better hot than cold. 



DIETARY FOR INFANTS AND INVALIDS. 483 

A Hailstorm Julep.— Some sprigs of green mint bruised 
in a tumbler ; a large teaspoonf ul of white sugar ; enough 
water to fill the glass three quarters full. 

Fill up with pounded ice ; stir hard ; pour into a large 
glass that you may shake up well, and add two tablespoon- 
f fuls of fine brandy. 

Apple Toddy. — Boil a large, juicy pippin in a quart of 
water, and, when broken to pieces, strain off the water ; 
while boiling hot add a glassful of fine old whiskey, a 
little lemon juice, and sweeten to taste. 

Eau Sucree. — Dissolve three or four lumps of loaf 
sugar in a glass of water. 

Gum-Arabic Water. — "Wash some gum arabic, put into 
a tumbler, pour on boiling water, and stir until it is dis- 
solved. Excellent for a tickling cough. 

Lemonade. — One lemon, juice and thin parings; one 
ounce of rock candy ; one pint of boiling water. 

Put the lemon paring into a jug with the candy, squeeze 
in the juice, and add a pint of boiling water; cover closely, 
and let it cool. Orange or pineapple drink may be made 
in the same way. 

Linseed Tea or Water. — Whole linseed, one ounce; 
white sugar, one ounce ; liquorice root, half an ounce ; 
lemon juice, four tablespoonfuls. 

Put the ingredients into a jug, pour over them two 
pints of boiling water, let them stand in a hot place four 
hours ; then strain and use. Do not give this drink to 
patients taking lead, iron, or copper. 

Toast Water. — Slices of toast nicely browned; enough 
boiling water to cover them. 

Cover closely, and steep until cold ; strain and ice. 



484 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Jelly Water. — One large teaspoonf ul of any tart fruit- 
jelly ; one goblet of ice-water. 
Beat np well. 

Flax-seed Lemonade. — Four tablespoon!' uls of whole 
flax-seed; one quart of boiling water poured on the flax- 
seed; the juice of two lemons; sweeten to taste. 

Steep three hours in a covered pitcher ; if too thick, put 
in cold water with the lemon juice and sugar. Excellent 
for colds. 

Irish-Moss Lemonade (Iceland moss is equally good). — 
One handful of Irish moss, washed in five waters; two 
quarts of boiling water, poured on the moss, and left until 
cold ; two lemons peeled and sliced, leaving out the peel ; 
sweeten well, and ice. 

Do not strain, and if it thickens too much add cold wa- 
ter. Grood for feverish colds and all pulmonary troubles. 

Lemon Water. — Peel very carefully and thinly one large 
lemon, put it into a jug with a lump of sugar, pour over 
it one quart and a half of boiling water, let it stand till 
cold, strain, and it is ready for use. More lemon peel may 
be used. It is best to make it overnight, and let it stand 
until morning. 

Apple Water — Is made in the same way, but more peel, 
of course, is required. It is best to use the tart apples. 

Quince Water. — Peel and cut up into quarters two large 
quinces; pour over them one quart and a half of boiling 
water ; let it stand all night, then drain, and sweeten. 
This is very good for colds. 

Caudle. — Take one paper of Kobinson's prepared groats; 
make it perfectly smooth from lumps ; add a large table- 
spoonful of ground cinnamon, half a teaspoonf ul of ground 






DIETARY FOR INFANTS AND INVALIDS. 485 

mace, half a nutmeg, and two large cupfuls of powdered 
sugar; mix all well together, and then add, gradually, wa- 
ter until it is smooth and rather thin ; have half a gallon 
of water boiling on the fire with half a pound of stoned 
raisins ; take out the raisins, and add the groats ; when the 
whole nearly boils, add three pints of sherry wine and the 
juice of five or six lemons ; boil all together, put the rai- 
sins in a stone jar, and strain the caudle over them. Wine, 
sugar, or lemons may be added at any time before the final 
boiling; stir constantly for fear of burning; serve hot in 
small cups. 

Clove Tea. — Six whole cloves; one tumblerful of boil- 
ing water. Cover closely and leave all night ; then strain 
and drink. 

Violet Tea (^ Tisane de Violettes"). (Good to induce 
perspiration.) — Half an ounce of dried violets put into two 
pints of boiling water ; let them stand near the fire half an 
hour; then strain and use. 

Mint Tea. — Take half an ounce of green mint leaves, 
crush, and infuse in boiling water; sweeten, and, when 
cold, strain. It is healing to the stomach and bowels. 
Rosemary, balsam, and southernwood teas may be made 
in the same way. 

Catnip Tea. — Make as above. Good for colds and colic. 

Aniseed Tea. — Make as above. Good for colds and 
colic. 

Fennel Seeds Steeped in Urandy. — Good for colds and 
colic. 

Tansy-and-Eue Tea. — Make in the same way as "Mint 
Tea." Good for colds and colic. 



486 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Chamomile and Gentian Teas — Are made in the same 
way as " Mint Tea," and are excellent tonics, taken cold 
or hot. 

Pennyroyal Tea. — Make in the same way as "Mint 
Tea." Good to induce perspiration. 

Tea of Parsley Boot. — Parsley root, scraped and steeped 
in boiling water, is good for strangury and kindred affec- 
tions, as is, also, tea of dried pumpkin seeds. 

Pose Tea. — Half an ounce of red rosebuds (the white 
heels being taken off) ; three tablespoonf uls of white wine 
vinegar; one ounce of white sugar candy. 

Pour over these ingredients two pints of boiling water ; 
let them stand near the fire for two hours, then strain. 
Similar acid drinks may be made of apple jelly, guava jel- 
ly, damson cheese, currant jelly, or syrup of gooseberries, 
barberries, etc. 

Sage Tea. — Half an ounce of fresh, green sage leaves, 
plucked from the stalks, and washed clean ; one ounce of 
sugar ; a quarter of an ounce of outer rind of finely pared 
lemon peel. 

Pour over these ingredients two pints of boiling wa- 
ter, let them stand near the fire an hour, then strain; 
when the sage is dried, less than half an ounce must be 
used. 

Oatmeal Tea. — One handful of oatmeal ; one gallon of 
boiling water. 

Mix in a deep vessel ; let the oatmeal subside, which it 
does in half an hour ; then pour off the tea. By this proc- 
ess hard water is made digestible. 

Tea of Green Strawberry Leaves. — A good wash for a 
cankered mouth. 



DIETAKY FOR INFANTS AND INVALIDS. 487 

Sage Tea — Sweetened with honey, and with a small bit 
of alum dissolved in it, is an excellent gargle for sore 
throat. 

Cleansing Wash for the Mouth before Food. — One table- 
spoonful of Condy's solution in a pint of tepid water. 

White Wine Whey, No. 1. — One quart of new milk; 
one gill of sherry. 

Put the milk in a saucepan, and stir it over a clear fire 
until it is nearly boiling ; then add the sherry, and sim- 
mer for a quarter of an hour, skimming off the curd as it 
rises ; then add a tablespoonf ul more of sherry, and skim 
again for a few minutes. 

White Wine Whey, No. 2. — One pint of fresh milk; two 
wineglassfuls of Madeira wine. 

Put on the milk, and when it boils throw in the wine 
and let it come again to a boil ; strain without stirring it. 
The quantity of wine must be regulated by the advice of 
a physician ; less than one glassful of wine will not turn 
a pint of milk to whey. If the wine whey must be very 
weak, add whey turned with rennet to dilute it. 

JRennet Whey. — One quart of new milk, warm from the 
cow, if possible ; one large tablespoonf ul of rennet. 

Heat the milk (if it be not warm from the cow) to the 
same temperature, add the rennet, keep up the heat a lit- 
tle higher until the curd separates, and take it off with a 
spoon. 

Tamarind Whey. — Boil two ounces of tamarinds in two 
pints of milk, strain, and serve. It may be taken cold or 
hot. 

Restorative Jelly (" Boston Cook-Book "). — Two calf 's- 
f eet ; two quarts of cold water ; half a cupful of sugar ; 



488 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

one lemon ; one inch of stick cinnamon ; one and a half 
eggs, whites and shells ; one cupful of port wine ; two 
cloves ; one tablespoonf ul of powdered gum-arabic. 

Scald the feet and clean thoroughly ; split, break the 
bones, and put them into cold water; heat slowly, and 
simmer gently until reduced to a pint and a half ; strain, 
and when cold remove the fat ; acid the other ingredients 
except the wine ; put it over the fire and stir until hot ; 
let it boil five minutes, or until a thick scum has formed ; 
set it back on the stove, skim, and add the wine; strain 
through a fine napkin into a shallow dish ; when cool and 
firm cut with a silver knife into small squares. This is 
good for a very weak patient or an old person. 

Baked Lemon or Orange. — Bake a lemon or sour orange 
twenty minutes in a moderate oven ; when done, cut open, 
take out the inside, and eat with sugar or molasses. Ex- 
cellent for hoarseness. 

Portable Beef Tea(" Boston Cook-Book"). — Two pounds 
of lean beef, cut fine ; half a box of gelatine. . 

Soak together in one pint of cold water one hour, squeez- 
ing often ; heat to nearly the boiling-point ; strain, press- 
ing all the juice from the meat ; fill a glass jar with the 
juice, place the jar in water, and heat until the water out- 
side the jar boils ; seal while hot ; dissolve two teaspoon- 
fuls of the above preparation in half a cupful of boiling 
water, add a few grains of salt, and serve at once. This 
is a convenient form of food for travellers. 

Broiled -Beef Essence. — Broil half a pound of round 
steak one or two minutes, or until the juice will flow ; cut 
it into small pieces ; squeeze the juice into a heated bowl 
placed in hot water ; salt and serve. 

Broiled- Beef Tea. — Proceed as above, but add half a 
cupful of boiling water to the essence. 



DIETARY FOR INFANTS AND INVALIDS. 489 

Laban (" Boston Cook-Book "). — One quart of new milk ; 
one tablespoonful of yeast stirred into the milk. 

Let it stand in a cool place to harden, which will take 
from three to twenty-four hours ; when hard take a table- 
spoonful of the mixture and stir it into new milk, and then 
set away to harden again. This is " Laban." It should 
be eaten with sugar and cream. If a constant supply be 
needed, reserve one tablespoonful each day for the next 
preparation. It is both palatable and digestible. 

Corn Tea and Bice Coffee ("Boston Cook-Book"). — 
Brown one cupful of dried sweet corn or rice ; pound or 
grind it fine ; add one pint of cold water and steep one 
hour; strain, and serve with sugar and cream. They are 
pleasant and nourishing beverages. 

Gluten Gems (" Boston Cook-Book "). — Two cupfuls of 
gluten ; half a teaspoonf ul of salt ; two teaspoonf uls of bak- 
ing-powder ; two tablespoonf uls of sugar ; one egg ; two 
cupfuls of water or milk. 

Bake in very hot buttered gem-pans, in a hot oven, half 
an hour. 

Raisin-Milk Porridge. — Two dozen raisins, quartered ; 
two cupfuls of milk ; one tablespoonful of flour ; salt to 
taste. 

Boil the raisins in a little water twenty minutes ; let the 
water boil away and add the milk ; when boiling add the 
flour, rubbed to a thin paste with a little cold water ; boil 
eight or ten minutes ; season with salt, strain, and serve. 

21* 



GENERAL HINTS FOR THE SICK- 
ROOM. 

An open fireplace, and in winter an open fire, are neces- 
sary. A candle, of the best quality, is the only safe light. 
Lamps of all kinds should be avoided. 

The bed should be placed so as to command a good view 
of the room, as it frequently makes a patient nervous to 
hear any movement going on behind the bed. Draughts 
must be carefully avoided, and neither sun nor candle al- 
lowed to shine full on the bed. 

In visiting a sick person stand or sit near the foot of the 
bed, so that the patient need make no effort to see you. 
It is distressing to invalids to have people too close to 
them, or to have them sit near the head of the bed, so that 
the invalid is obliged to turn round and look upwards. 
Never wear creaking shoes or a rustling garment. Next 
to perfect, immaculate cleanliness, comes complete silence. 

If it be necessary to replenish a coal fire, avoid noise by 
putting the coal into a paper bag, and putting bag and all 
on the fire. 

Never keep soiled clothes or food of any kind in a sick- 
room. If two beds are used, keep the mattress and 
blankets of the odd bed in another room, exposed to air 
and sunlight, and make up the bed freshly just before you 
move the patient, then carry away at once the mattress, 
pillows, blankets, etc., and put them in another room to 
air; cover the palliasse or springs of the empty bed with a 
neat coverlet so that it may present a decent appearance. 
Keep all food well covered up in an adjoining room, which 
should be well aired. 



GENERAL HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. 491 

In sweeping a sick-room envelop the broom in a cotton- 
flannel bag wet with cold water ; it should be put on with 
the nap side out. Always dust a sick-room with a damp 
cloth. 

Never enter a sick-room when in a violent perspiration, 
or with an empty stomach, as then the system more readily 
receives contagion. If obliged to sit up all night, provide 
yourself with something to eat, if only a cake of choco- 
late. 

TO KEEP ICE IN A SICK-ROOM (" BOSTON COOK-BOOK "). 

Tie a square of coarse white flannel over a pitcher, leav- 
ing a cup-shaped depression in the centre, fill this with 
broken ice, and cover tightly with a thicker flannel ; it will 
keep well. 

HOT BANDAGES. 

In applying hot bandages, dip the flannel in boiling 
water, place it in the centre of a coarse towel, and twist 
and wring the ends of the towel; or, place the flannels in a 
steamer over hot water until penetrated with the steam ; 
they will then need no wringing. 

CONVENIENCES IN A SICK-ROOM. 

In severe sickness a glass tube is useful for feeding 
drinks and gruels, and little white china boats with spouts 
are also good ; a wooden tray, with legs six or seven inches 
high, to stand on the bed, is useful for serving meals. 

GENERAL HINTS AS TO DIET EOR INVALIDS (BOSTON COOK- 
BOOK "). 

Milk should enter largely into the diet of children and 
invalids ; it should be used with discretion, and not drunk 
too fast ; a large glass of milk swallowed suddenly will 
form in the stomach a lump of dense, cheesy curd, which 
may even prove fatal to a weak stomach. Under the ac- 
tion of the stomach this cheesy mass will turn over and 



492 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

over like a heavy weight, and as the gastric juice can only 
attack its surface it digests slowly ; but this same milk, 
taken slowly, or with dry toast, light rolls, or soft, dry 
porridge, forms a porous lump through which the gastric 
juice can easily pass, and which breaks up every time the 
stomach turns it over. Milk should be very slightly salt- 
ed, and eaten with breadstuffs, or sipped by the spoonful. 
Cow's milk produces less heat than human milk; a child 
will grow thin upon it unless a little sugar be added. 
Wheat flour has such an excess of heat-producing power 
as to fatten a child unduly, and should have cow's milk 
added to it to reduce its fattening power. 

Vanilla should never be used as a flavoring for invalids. 
Pepper, in small quantities, is allowable, but only white or 
cayenne pepper, never black. 

Boiled onions are soothing to the mucous membrane; 
in inflammation of the stomach they are healthful when a 
piece of white bread could not be digested. Broiled or 
roasted squab, venison, chicken, mutton, and beef, in the 
order given, are the most easily assimilated meats. 

Game, being rich in phosphates, is valuable for invalids. 
Broiled bacon, dusted with cayenne, is an easily digested 
form of fat. 

Tomatoes are very healthy, and are considered by many 
physicians a remedy for dyspepsia and indigestion. Wa- 
tery, green, or diseased potatoes should never be eaten ; 
young potatoes are indigestible. 

Eggs for sick people should be taken raw, boiled very 
lightly, or boiled very hard; when cooked in any other 
manner they are indigestible. 

Soups which have in them cream or milk are better for 
invalids than those rich in gelatine. Cream of celery and 
Potage d la Peine Victoire are particularly good. 

Sfrong bouillon is adapted to those suffering from 
hemorrhoids, or any disease of the rectum, as there is no 
solid waste. 
Diabetics should abstain from sugar, and anything which 



GENERAL HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. 493 

is converted into sugar in digestion, such as all starchy 
foods and vegetables. 

The corpulent should abstain from fat, sugar, and starchy 
foods. 

The bilious and gouty should eat sparingly of brown 
meats, cheese, eggs, beans, pease, or food which is rich in 
albuminoids. 

The constipated should avoid fried or greasy foods, hot 
bread, rich cake, veal, pork, coarse oatmeal, etc. 

Those people who have consumptive tendencies should 
eat wholesome, easily digested and assimilated food, with 
plenty of fat, i. <?., cream, sweet butter, fat of roast or 
boiled meat, salads, cornmeal, oatmeal, etc. 



HOUSEHOLD, TOILET, AND MEDI- 
CAL RECEIPTS. 

HOUSEHOLD RECEIPTS. 

To Preserve Eggs. — Slake a lump of lime, making the 
mixture as thick as ordinary whitewash ; let it stand three 
weeks ; pack the eggs carefully in a jar, or any vessel that 
will hold the liquid. 

To Preserve Milk. — Bottle the milk tightly, using wine 
corks; place them in a kettie of cold water; heat the 
water gradually until it reaches boiling-point; then re- 
move the kettle from the fire and allow it to cool; then 
pack the bottles for future use ; milk prepared in this 
manner will keep for six months. 

To Preserve Lime Juice. — Strain the juice, and to every 
pint add one pound of double-refined sugar ; let it stand 
in the sun ; as the scum rises, skim it off, and when it is 
quite free from scum put into pint bottles and cork it 
well; it will keep for months. 

To Clean Wine Bottles. — Put some shot in the bottles, 
fill them half full of water, and shake the shot about until 
the bottle is thoroughly cleaned ; the water had better be 
changed two or three times during the process ; be very 
careful not to leave any shot in the bottles, as the acid of 
the wine acts on it poisonously. 

To Clean Brasses. — Grate Bath brick to a fine powder, 
saturate it with alcohol, and rub on the brass with a rag, 



HOUSEHOLD, TOILET, AND MEDICAL KECEEPTS. 495 

until it is quite bright and clean ; finish polishing with a 
chamois cloth. 

To Clean Straw Matting. — Wash with a cloth dipped 
in clean salt and water ; wipe dry at once, or it will turn 
yellow. 

To Clean Paint. — Use a rather soft, flat brush, warm 
water, and plenty of suds ; wash off the suds with a flannel 
cloth dipped in cold water, and dry with a clean cloth. 
Paint should always be washed and dried quickly. 

To Remove Stains f Tom Marble. — Make a mortar of 
unslacked lime and very strong lye ; cover the spot thickly 
with it, and leave it on for six weeks ; wash it off perfect- 
ly clean, and rub hard with a brush dipped in a lather of 
soap and water ; polish with a smooth, hard brush. 

To Clean a Marble Floor. — If not very dirty, the plan 
adopted in Italy is the best. The Italians use clean, fresh 
sawdust, slightly dampened. This cleans a marble floor 
quickly and well ; if the floor be of cement, dark in col- 
or, and varnished to imitate mosaic, the Italians clean as 
above, and polish with flannel cloths, dipped in oil and 
vinegar. 

Stains of Iron Mould. — Moisten with ink, and, while 
wet, rub in muriatic acid, diluted with five times its weight 
of water. 

Ink Stains. — If wet, wash in skim milk, then in cold 
water, then again in hot. For dry ink stains use oxalic 
acid, or lemon juice and salt. 

Mildew. — Equal parts of lemon juice, salt, powdered 
starch, and soft soap ; rub on thickly, and lay on the grass 
in the hot sun ; repeat this process two or three times a day. 



496 THE UNKIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Stains of Acids and Alkalies. — Treat acid stains with 
hartshorn ; alkaline with acids. 

Stains on Silk or Woollen. — Moisten with the scouring 
spirit, and rub until the spot disappears. 

To Wash Black Goods. — Rip the stuff, and select the best 
for cleaning; buy ftvo, cents' worth of pulverized soap bark, 
and let it stand in a little water until dissolved ; put the 
black stuff in enough lukewarm water to cover it, turn in 
the soap bark, rinse the stuff up and down until it is quite 
saturated, then rinse in clear lukewarm water. The effect 
upon bunting is remarkable, cleansing and restoring ; but 
various black stuffs may be cleaned in this way. 

To Clean Black Goods. — Two parts of soft water ; one 
part of alcohol or turpentine. * 

Wash with a well-soaped sponge dipped in the mixture ; 
rub both sides of the stuff, stretching it on a table ; sponge 
off with clear hot water, and iron on the wrong side, and 
while damp. 

To Wash Silk. — Mix well .two cupfuls of cold water, 
one tablespoonful of strained honey, one tablespoonful of 
soft-soap, and one wineglassful of alcohol. 

Shake up well, lay the silk on a table ; sponge each 
breadth on both sides, rubbing well ; then shake about 
well in a tub of cold water ; flap dry, but do not wring it ; 
hang by the edges until fit to iron, and iron on the wrong 
side while damp. 

To Smooth Wrinkled Silk. — Sponge on the right side 
with very weak gum-arabic and water, and iron on the 
wrong side. 

To Wash Woollens. — Wash in clean, hot soap suds, rinse 
out in clear hot water, and shake, but do not wring. 



■ 
HOUSEHOLD, TOILET, AND MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 497 

To Wash Lawn or Thin Muslin. — Two quarts of wheat 
bran ; six quarts of water. 

Boil half an hour, strain, and mix in the water in which 
the muslin is to be washed ; if possible, use neither soap 
nor starch ; rinse lightly in clear water. This preparation 
both cleanses and stiffens. 

To Wash Doubtful Calicoes.— One teaspoonful of sugar 
of lead ; one pailful of water. 

Mix, put in the calico, and soak fifteen minutes before 
washing. 

To Wash Tidies made of Antique Lace. — Soak in borax 
water, then let them lie in warm suds, squeezing them in 
your hands ; rinse, but do not blue them ; instead of iron- 
ing them, pull them in shape and pin to a clean cloth on 
your ironing - board ; let them get quite dry before re- 
moving them. 

To Wash Black Lace. — Half a cupful of rain water ; one 
teaspoonful of borax; one tablespoonful of spirits of wine. 

Squeeze the tumbled rusty lace through this four times, 
then rinse in a cupful of hot water, in which a black kid 
glove has been boiled ; pull out the edges of the lace, and 
put under pressure for two days. 

To Wash White Lace Edging. — Cover a quart bottle 
with linen, stitched smoothly to fit the shape ; begin at the 
bottom and wind the lace about it, basting fast at both 
edges, even the minutest point, to the linen ; wash on the 
bottle, soaping it well ; rinse by plunging in a pail of fair 
water, and boil as you would a white handkerchief, bottle 
and all ; set in the sun to dry ; when quite dry, clip the 
basting threads, and use without ironing. 

To Renew Wrinkled Crape. — Stretch over a basin of 
boiling water, holding it smooth, but not tight, over the 



498 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

top, until the steam fairly penetrates it ; fold while damp, 
and put under pressure. 

To Restore the Pile of Velvet. — If but slightly pressed,, 
treat as you would crape ; if badly crushed, wet on the wrong 
side, and pass the wet side of the velvet slowly over the 
flat surface of a hot iron ; as the steam rises to the right 
side it will raise the pile with it ; dry without handling. 

To Curl Tumbled Feathers. — Hold over a hot fire, 
not hot enough to burn ; shake out, and heat again until 
curled. 

To Keep Woollens. — Beat, brush, and sun for a day; 
shake hard, fold neatly, and pin in papers which have been 
dipped in turpentine, and then dried ; put a lump of gum 
camphor in each bundle. Or, sew closely in muslin or linen 
cloths, and pack in whiskey barrels. 

To Make Soft Soap. — Ten pounds of grease; six pounds 
of washing soda or wood ashes ; eight gallons of hot water. 

Let it stand until the grease is eaten up ; if too thick, 
add more water; stir every day; if wood ashes are used, 
boil the mixture. 

Mixture for Sponging Woollen Goods. — Two ounces of 
ammonia ; two ounces of castile soap, white • one ounce of 
glycerine ; one ounce of ether. 

Cut the soap fine, dissolve in one pint of water over the 
fire ; then add two quarts of water and the other in- 
gredients ; mix and stir well, and bottle. This should be 
mixed with water in the proportion of a teacupful to an 
ordinary pail of water ; mix thoroughly, and wash soiled 
garments in- it. For removing spots, use a sponge or clean 
flannel cloth, and with a dry cloth rub as dry as possible. 
Woollen goods may be made to look bright and fresh by 
being sponged with this. 



HOUSEHOLD, TOILET, AND MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 499 

To Prevent Lampwicks from Smoking. — Lainpwicks 
should be soaked in good vinegar, and* afterwards thor- 
oughly dried ; they will burn perfectly well, and will never 
smoke if this process is adopted. 

To Remove Grease from Carpets. — Take some oxgall from 
the butcher's, put it in water, and wash the carpets with it. 

To Remove Port and Claret Stains. — Cover the stain 
thickly with salt, and, when dry, wet them again with 
sherry before washing in hot water. 

To Clean a Furred Tea-kettle. — Put a few spoonfuls 
of ammonia in water, and boil in the tea-kettle. It will 
cleanse it thoroughly. 

To Sweeten Bitter Yeast. — Wash a poker clean, and 
dry it ; then heat it red-hot, and thrust it red-hot into the 
yeast. It will not fail to sweeten it. 

To Restore Worn Steel Pens. — Heat the pen in gas- 
light, and dip instantly into cold water. It will make it 
as good as new. 

Clothes Catching Fire. — Throw yourself instantly on the 
floor, and roll yourself in a rug or blanket, if you have one. 
Children should be taught this as soon as they are able to 
understand. 

To Escape from a Burning Place. — If yon have to pass 
by flames, muffle the mouth and nose in wet bandages or 
thick woollen, and creep on all fours, no matter how great 
the haste, as the cold air falls to the floor, and one can 
breathe there when it is impossible elsewhere. Children 
should be early taught this also. 

To Draw Out a Broken Needle. — If no surgeon be at 



500 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

hand, and all other remedies fail, a broken needle may be 
drawn out of the flesh in which it has embedded itself by 
the action of a strong magnet, which should be applied to 
the skin. 

Plants in a Room. — A few plants add rather to the 
health of a room than otherwise, as they give out oxygen 
and inhale carbonic acid ; but many plants produce a slight 
malaria. Neither plants nor cut flowers should be allowed 
to remain overnight in a sleeping-room. 

For Staining Wooden Floors. — The best plai?i staining- 
fluid is permanganate of potash. It not only stains, but 
purifies, being the foundation of a powerful disinfectant. 
Buy wholesale ; dissolve one and a half ounces in a gallon 
of boiling water (this will make quite a dark stain) ; stir 
the mixture thoroughly with a stick, and lay it on with a 
painter's flat brush, a large one, working the way of the 
grain of the wood quickly and boldly. A small brush 
should be used for corners and crevices. When dry the 
staining can be repeated if it is not dark enough. The 
floor should then be rubbed over with a woollen duster, 
and linseed oil should be rubbed on freely with a piece of 
flannel, always following the grain of the wood. Two or 
three layers of linseed oil should be laid on, as this sets the 
stain ; it is then ready to be polished with beeswax and 
turpentine. To prepare this, cut up the beeswax into 
small pieces, put it into a pot, and pour sufficient tur- 
pentine over it to cover it; set the pot in the oven, or on 
the stove, until the wax is thoroughly melted ; then leave 
it to get cold, when it should be of the consistency of po- 
matum ; rub on the wax, not too much of it, with a piece 
of flannel, and then polish with a polishing-brush. The 
best kind are the weighted ones with long handles, as they 
do not entail so much stooping ; but other kinds, not so 
expensive, are easily to be obtained. This method of 
treating floors is quite the best and most wholesome for 



HOUSEHOLD, TOILET, AND MEDICAL EECEIPTS. 501 

bedrooms, which should be stained uniformly all over. 
They can be kept very clean and bright by rubbing daily 
with a duster, and by a weekly application of beeswax and 
turpentine. After these floors are once well polished, they 
require but little labor — not more than scrubbing floors or 
washing oilcloths. 

To Restore Scorched Linen. — If linen has been scorched 
in ironing, and the mark has not gone through so as to 
damage the texture, it may be removed by the following 
process : Take two onions, peel, slice, and pound them to 
extract the juice ; then cut up half an ounce of white 
soap and two ounces of fuller's-earth ; mix with them the 
onion juice and half a pint of vinegar ; boil this composition 
well, then spread it; when cool cover the scorched part of 
the linen, and let it dry on ; afterwards wash out the linen. 

To Shrink Flannel. — Dip the flannel into boiling wa- 
ter, taking care to saturate it thoroughly; shake, but do 
not wring, and at once hang it up in the sun to dry. It 
will never shrink again. 

Your Own Mason. — Small holes in white walls can be 
easily repaired by mixing equal parts of plaster of Paris 
and white sand (scouring sand) to a paste; mix a small 
quantity at a time, and apply with a knife or flat piece of 
wood. This cement hardens at once, and is very durable. 

To Extinguish Kerosene Flames. — If no cloth is at 
hand, throw flour on the flames. Flour rapidly absorbs 
the fluid, and deadens the flame. 

To Prevent Horses' Feet from Scalding or Cracking. — 
Coat the hoofs once a week with an ointment consisting 
of equal parts of soap fat, yellow wax, linseed oil, Venice 
turpentine, and Norway tar ; melt the wax separately be- 
fore mixing. . 



502 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

To Preserve Sheepskins for Mats. — Dissolve one pound 
of alum and one pound of salt in a gallon of water ; put 
the skin in soon after it is taken from the sheep, and let it 
soak twenty-four hours ; then nail it on an old door, skin 
uppermost, till quite dry ; line it with a piece of old car- 
pet (after cutting it straight) to prevent the possibility of 
its greasing the floor. 

General Scouring Spirit. — One ounce of pyroligneous 
ether; three drachms of the essence of lemon. 

Mix, moisten the grease-spot in silk or cloth well with 
this mixture, and rub it until it disappears. 

To Drive away Rats. — Chloride of lime is au infalli- 
ble preventive, as rats flee from its odor as from a pesti- 
lence. It should be thrown down their holes, and spread 
about wherever they are likely to come. It should be re- 
newed once a fortnight. 

To Drive away Mosquitoes. — Some of the Vene- 
tian mosquito powder burned in the room is very ef- 
fective. 

Or, if the herb called pennyroyal can be obtained, a 
bunch of it tied at the head of the bed will drive the mos- 
quitoes away. 

To Drive away any Insect which Infests Woodwork 
or Iron. — The following receipt was given me by a well- 
known dealer in antique furniture in Florence. He told 
me that it never failed, and that he had often used it 
on old pieces of furniture, which, to use his own expres- 
sion, " walked away of themselves." 

JEqua Mcestra. — For every quart of pure water one 
ounce of potash. Mix and stir until thoroughly dissolved, 
but do not boil it. 

Smell of Paint. — To get rid of the smell of oil paint, 



HOUSEHOLD, TOILET, AND MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 503 

put a handful of hay into a pailful of water, and let it 
stand in a room newly painted. 

To Render Awnings Waterproof. — Plunge the awning 
first into a solution containing twenty per cent, of soap, 
and then into another solution containing the same per- 
centage of sulphate of copper ; then wash, and the opera- 
tion is accomplished. 

Glue for Ready Use. — To any quantity of glue use 
common whiskey instead of water ; put both in a bottle, 
cork tightly, and set away for three or four days; it will 
then be fit for use. 

To Purify Foul Water. — Where a filter is unattainable, 
a very little alum will purify foul water. An ounce of 
alum will purify a whole hogshead of foul water. 

To Soften Hard Water. — Where soda is not obtainable 
or advisable, use wood ashes. It never fails to soften 
hard water, as it contains carbonate of potassa, which, 
uniting with the sulphate of lime, forms a substance which 
falls to the bottom, leaving the water soft. 

Bad Drinking Water. — Wherever the drinking water 
is not absolutely beyond suspicion, it should invariably be 
boiled and filtered before using. This treatment will make 
almost any water safe. 

To Manage a "Bain-marie ." — If the bain-marie- (i. e., 
the water in the outside kettle) does not boil as quickly as 
it ought, it is better to fill the outside kettle with brine, 
which always boils more quickly. 



TOILET RECEIPTS. 

Lotion for Freckles. — One teacupf ul of sour milk ; a lit- 
tle scraped horseradish. 



504 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Let it stand from six to twelve hours, and wash the 
parts affected twice a day. 

Almond Ball. — Put into an earthen saucepan, set in a 
pan of boiling water, one ounce of white wax, one ounce 
of pure spermaceti, and one gill of oil of almonds well 
stirred in ; add to this, when it begins to grow cool, half 
a drachm of essential oil of almonds ; half a drachm of 
expressed oil of mace, and half a drachm of balsam of 
Peru ; stir until smooth and perfectly amalgamated; then 
pour into egg-cups; turn out when hard. These balls 
passed over the clean and dry skin at bedtime greatly 
improve the softness of the complexion. 

Glycerine Balsam. — Half an ounce of white wax; one 
ounce of spermaceti ; one gill of oil of almonds. 

Melt slowly in a porcelain kettle, and when melted and 
stirred smooth add one ounce and a half of glycerine that 
has been already scented by a quarter of an ounce of bal- 
sam of Peru, or by sixteen drops of attar of roses ; stir 
constantly until cold ;' then pour into china jars. 

Gold Cream, No. 1. — Take a quarter of an ounce of white 
wax, and shred it into a basin with one ounce of almond oil ; 
place the basin by the fire until the wax is dissolved ; then 
add very slowly one ounce of rose-water, little by little, 
and during this time beat smartly with a fork to make the 
water incorporate, and continue beating until it is accom- 
plished ; then pour into jars for use. 

Gold Cream, No. 2. — Take one pound of the best lard 
and four ounees of spermaceti. 

Melt the two together, and add one ounce of rose-water, 
beating as above directed. 

Bed Lip Salve. — -Take four ounces of white wax, four 
ounces of olive-oil, half an ounce of spermaceti, twenty 
drops of oil of lavender, and two ounces of alkanet root. 



HOUSEHOLD, TOILET, AND MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 505 

Macerate the alkanet for three or four days in the olive- 
oil ; then strain, and melt in it the wax and spermaceti ; 
when nearly cold add the oil of lavender, and stir it till 
quite h'rmly set. 

Hair Stimulant. — One ounce of spirits of turpentine ; 
one ounce of trotter oil ; thirty drops of acetic solution of 
cantharides. 

To be applied three times a week. 

Hair Wash for Scurf and Dandruff. — Put one ounce 
of flowers of sulphur into one quart of clear, cold water; 
agitate often for several hours ; then pour off the liquid 
and saturate the scalp with it every morning. 

Pomade Divine. — Take four pounds of mutton suet, one 
pound of white wax, an ounce and. a half each of essence 
of bergamot and essence of lemon, and half an ounce each 
of oil of lavender and oil of origanum. 

Melt the suet and the wax together, and, when tepid, stir 
in the other ingredients. The origanum has considerable 
power in stimulating the growth of the hair. 

Rosemary Tea for the Hair. — Bruise a branch of rose- 
mary, pour one pint of boiling water over it, and use it 
warm every morning. This will do for several times. 

A Wash for the Scalp, or for Roughness of Skin. — Take 
one ounce of Belmont glycerine, half a drachm of oil of 
rosemary, one ounce of proof spirits, half an ounce of 
honey, and half a pint of lavender water. 

Mix the oil of rosemary with the honey and spirits, and 
add the lavender water gradually, shaking up well ; then 
put in the glycerine and cork. 

Pomade Angelique. — Mix fresh beef marrow and care- 
fully prepared neat's-foot or trotter's oil in equal propor- 

22 



506 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

tions; melt in a water bath, strain (through coarse lace) 
and decant, leaving the dregs behind; after which, when 
nearly cool, add a few drops of attar of roses, and stir un- 
til the whole is set. 

Hungary Water. — To one pint of proof spirits of wine 
put an ounce of oil of rosemary and two drachms of es- 
sence of ambergris; shake the bottle well several times, 
then let the cork remain out twenty-four hours ; after a 
month, during which time shake it daily, put the water 
into small bottles. 

Honey Water. — Take a pint of proof spirit, as above, and 
three drachms of essence of ambergris. 
Shake them well daily. 

Lavender Water. — Take a pint of proof spirit, as above, 
one ounce of essential oil of lavender, and two drachms of 
essence of ambergris. 

Put all into a quart bottle and shake it extremely well. 

Cologne Water. — Two drachms of essence of citron; 
two drachms of essence of bergamot ; one drachm of es- 
sence of cedrat ; half a drachm of essence of lavender ; ten 
drops of essence of orange flowers ; ten drops of tincture 
of ambergris ; half a drachm of tincture of musk ; three 
drachms of tincture of benjamin ; two drops of attar of 
roses ; two pints of proof spirits. 

Mix and filter. 

Aromatic Vinegar. — Dissolve two ounces of camphor, 
two drachms of oil of cloves, and eight ounces of rectified 
spirits of wine; then add two pints and a half of strong 
distilled vinegar. 

Thieved Vinegar. — One ounce of dried rosemary tops ; 
one ounce of dried sage leaves ; half an ounce of dried 



HOUSEHOLD, TOILET, AND MEDICAL KECEIPTS. 507 

lavender flowers ; fifteen grains of cloves ; one quart of 
distilled vinegar. 

Leave for seven days, then press and filter. 



Old-fashioned Scent Jar. — Gather rose leaves on a very 
fine day, and, if you have them, damask roses ; lay them 
in a large earthenware jar, and throw in a little common 
salt to every layer of roses ; then two handfuls each 
of rosemary leaves, lavender flowers, and knotted marjo- 
ram ; add a few bay leaves; put in, also, a quarter of a 
pound of bag salt, pounded, one ounce of orris root, sliced, 
one ounce of cloves, one ounce each of cinnamon, of gum 
benjamin, and storax, and a quarter of a pound of angeli- 
ca root, sliced ; when the ingredients are mixed, cover the 
jar close and let it stand for a week. The scent is deli- 
cious. 



MEDICAL KECEIPTS. 

Antidotes to Poison. — For any poison give instantly 
either one teaspoonful of mustard in a tumbler of warm 
water, or two or three teaspoonfuls of powdered alum in 
the same way; use until free vomiting is excited. 

Arsenic. — Give large quantities of milk, and raw eggs, 
lime water, or flour and water; then castor oil. 

Antimony. — Plenty of strong tea, and keep up the 
strength. 

Acids (except prussic acid). — One ounce of calcined 
magnesia to one pint of water ; give a wineglassful every 
two or three minutes ; if no magnesia is at hand, give 
soap and water ; give plenty of warm water to drink. 

Copper, or Chloride of Zinc, or Tin. — Large quanti- 
ties of milk and white of eggs; afterwards, strong tea; 
do not give vinegar. 



508 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Lead. — One pint of water; two ounces of Epsom salts. 
Mix, and give a wineglassful every ten minutes, until it 
operates freely. 

Iodine. — Large quantities of starch and water. 

Green Vitriol. — Give an emetic; afterwards magnesia 
and water. 

Lunar Caustic. — One large teaspoonf ul of common salt 
in a glassful of water, and repeat in ten minutes ; then a 
dose of castor oil, and barley water to drink. 

Mercury. — The white of an egg in a little water, three 
times at intervals of five minutes; then large quantities 
of milk, or flour and water ; then linseed tea. 

Nitre. — Plenty of flour and water ; then olive-oil. 

Phosphorus. — An emetic; then large quantities of 
warm water, with magnesia, or flour stirred in ; no oil or 
fat of any description. 

Poisonous Fish. — An emetic ; then a full dose of castor 
oil, with some warm spice;, a mustard plaster on the pit 
of. the stomach. 

Poisonous Plants, Mushrooms, etc. — An emetic ; when 
the stomach is emptied give a good dose of castor oil; 
stimulants, if the patient be faint. 

Laudanum. — Empty the stomach by an emetic ; for an 
adult give fifteen grains of sulphate of zinc in a little 
water; to a young person half the quantity; to an infant, 
a teaspoonf ul of syrup of ipecac ; if no drugs are at hand, 
use mustard and warm water, or salt and water, and tickle 
the top of the throat; after vomiting, give plenty of very 



HOUSEHOLD, TOILET, AND MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 509 

strong coffee ; put a mustard plaster round the calf of each 
leg, and, if faint and cold, give spirits and water; remem- 
ber to keep the patient awake, at all hazards ; after an 
overdose of laudanum, sleep is death. 

To Stop the Flow of Blood. — Bathe the cut with 
ordinary red wine; then cover the wound with either 
whiting, pipe-clay, or cobwebs and brown sugar ; if you 
have none of these, apply the fine dust of tea, or, if all are 
wanting, a handful of earth held tightly to the wound 
until help can be obtained ; if the cut is deep, it is wise 
not only to bandage it tightly, but to tie another bandage 
above, not Moio, the wound. 

To Treat Stings. — Extract the sting ; then apply at 
once a little bluing, slightly moistened with water ; if 
the inflammation is great, poultice. 

Bite of a Snake. — Tie a string tightly above the wound ; 
wash, and suck it ; then burn the wound to the very bot- 
tom with lunar caustic, or iron heated to a white heat ; 
stimulants, preferably whiskey, must be given in large 
quantities. 

Sunstroke. — Bind the head with wet cloths ; wet another 
cloth, fold into a small square, cover thickly with salt, and 
apply to the back of the neck ; apply dry salt behind the 
ears, and mustard plasters to the calves of the legs and 
soles of the feet. The salt is an Arabian remedy, and is 
very effective. 

Asthma. — Soak blotting-paper in strong saltpetre water, 
dry, and burn at night in the patient's bedroom. 

Croup. — Give a teaspoonful of ipecacuanha wine every 
few minutes until free vomiting is excited. 



510 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Powerful Rubefacient (good with friction for rheuma- 
tism, sprains, etc.). — One ounce of yellow bar soap, one 
ounce of boiling water, and three ounces of hot olive-oil, 
dissolved together ; half an ounce of camphor dissolved 
in the olive -oil; when the above ingredients are well 
amalgamated, add one quarter ounce of oil of origanum ; 
half an ounce of spirits of ammonia; thrice the quantity 
of spirits of wine. Stir until nearly cold, then keep well 
corked in wide jars. 

Camphorated Oil. — Best oil of Lucca; gum camphor. 

Pound some gum camphor, and fill a wide-necked pint 
bottle one third full ; fill up with olive-oil, and set away 
until the camphor is absorbed. Excellent lotion for sore 
chest, sore throat, aching limbs, etc. 

Lotion for Burns. — One pint of linseed oil; one pint 
of lime water. Mix and shake well. 

Lotion for Scalds.- t — Equal parts of prepared lard and 
spermaceti cerate ; blend for an ointment. This ointment 
is equally good for burns. 

For Cold. — There is no remedy so good as to go to bed 
and stay there, drinking nothing, not even water, for 
twenty-four hours, and eating as little as possible. Or, go 
to bed; put your feet in hot mustard and water; put a 
bran or oatmeal poultice on the chest ; take ten grains of 
Dover's powder, and an hour afterwards a pint of hot 
gruel ; in the morning rub the body all over with a coarse 
towel, and take a dose of aperient medicine. 

Violet, pennyroyal, or boneset tea are excellent to pro- 
mote perspiration in case of sudden chill. 

Or, take white wine whey. One pint of milk ; two 
wineglassfuls of white wine ; one teaspoonful of vinegar. 
Simmer gently; then strain, sweeten, and spice; give 
hot. 



HOUSEHOLD, TOILET, AND MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 511 

Cholagogue (old and tried remedy for chills and fever). 
— Sulphate of quinine, twelve grains ; sulphate of copper 
in powder, two grains; opium in powder, two grains; 
gum-arabic, in powder, a sufficient quantity. 

Make into a mass, with a few drops of water, and divide 
the mass into twenty-four pills. The dose is two pills, 
taken on the day after the chill, morning, noon, and night 
before each meal ; if the chill returns on the seventh, 
fourteenth, or twenty-first day, take the dose after three 
days ; if they return the first week, the pills can be taken ; 
but the chills will not be likely to show themselves again. 

Liniment for Chilblains^ o. 1. — Spirits of turpentine, 
three drachms ; camphorated oil, nine drachms. 

Mix for a liniment. For an adult four drachms of the 
former, and eight of the latter may be used. If the child 
be young, or if the skin be tender, the camphorated oil 
may be used without the turpentine. 

Liniment for Chilblains, No. 2. — Spirits of turpentine, 
white wine, contents of an egg in equal proportions; bot- 
tle, and shake until thoroughly amalgamated. 

For Broken Chilblains. — Spread a little spermaceti ce- 
rate on lint or old linen, and apply morning and night 
to the part affected. 

For Chapped Shin. — Keep a muslin bag filled with 
bran constantly soaking in the water which you use for 
your ablutions; the bran should be changed twice a week; 
immediately after bathing rub the chapped skin with deer 
suet, or with glycerine and rose-water, in the proportion of 
three parts of glycerine to one of rose-water ; do this 
while the skin is still wet. 

Earache. — There are various ways of treating earache : 
the most old fashioned are the appliance of a roasted 



512 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

onion, or a hot bag of salt to the ear, and putting in the 
ear a small piece of cotton wet with camphorated oil, or 
simple olive-oil with a drop of chloroform ; better still, to 
puff tobacco smoke into the ear. This remedy is very 
soothing and effective. 

Or, take a small wax taper, pare one end quite small, 
envelop it in a dry linen rag, insert it into the ear; then 
light the taper. Odd as this remedy may seem, it is won- 
derfully rapid and effective ; it is practised by all Italian 
sailors and fishermen. 

In Kentucky, a cockroach is drowned in whiskey, then 
wrapped in hot cotton, and applied to the ear. 

Excellent Enema for Constipation. — Two tablespoonf ills 
of table salt, two tablespoonf uls of olive-oil, and one pint 
of thin gruel. 

Lotion for Bleeding at the' Nose. — Powdered alum, one 
drachm ; water, half a pint. 

This may be snuffed or syringed up the nose. 

Gargle for Sore Throat, No. 1. — One wineglassful of 
barm ; one wineglassful of vinegar ; remainder sage tea, 
to make a half-pint bottle of gargle. 

Gargle for Sore Throat, No. 2. — A pinch of chlorate of 
potash in a glass of water. Gargle the throat with it twice 
a day, or oftener, if necessary. 

Gargle for Sore Throat, No. 3. — Tar water is a very 
good gargle for sore throat ; it is to be used twice a day. 

Whooping Cough. — One ounce of powdered alum ; 
quarter of a pound of brown sugar ; dissolve in two quarts 
of boiling water, and bottle. 

For a child one year old a teaspoonf ul three times a day 
on an empty stomach. For a child two years old two tea- 



HOUSEHOLD, TOILET, AND MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 513 

spoonfuls for a dose. For a child five years old a table- 
spoonful. The state of the bowels must be attended to, 
and the doses repeated accordingly. No other medicine 
to be taken, except an emetic, at first, if desirable. Except 
in the case of an infant, a milk diet to be avoided. 

For Worms, No. 1. — One ounce of quassia wood ; one 
quart of boiling water. 

Infuse, strain, and bottle ; give a tablespoonful three 
times a day .to a child four years old ; the quantity may 
be increased or diminished in proportion to the age of the 
child. 

For Worms, No. 2. — Half an ounce of pink root ; quar- 
ter of an ounce of senna ; quarter of an ounce of fennel ; 
one pint of boiling water. 

One tablespoonful three times a day to a child four 
years old. 

Injection for Pin Worms, No. 1. — Two ounces of 
quassia wood , one quart of boiling water.- 

Injection for Pin Worms, No. 2. — Lump of lime the 
size of an egg ; one quart of water. 

External Applications. 

Hot Salt. — Put a pint of powdered salt (the coarse 
cooking salt is the best for this purpose) into the frying- 
pan, or into the oven ; when the salt is very hot pour 
instantly into a flannel bag, and when suffering with pain 
apply to the stomach. 

Hot Flannel, Wet. — Take a yard of flannel, fold it in 
three widths; then dip it in very hot water; wring it 
tolerably dry, and apply it evenly and neatly round and 
round the bowels ; over this put a flannel bandage four 
yards long, and four inches wide. 

22* 



-514 THE UNEIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Cold-Water Bandage. — Take a yard of flannel, fold it in 
three widths ; then dip it in cold water ; wring it tolerably 
dry ; apply evenly and neatly round the bowels ; over this 
put an oiled silk bandage, sufficiently long and wide to 
completely swathe the bowels, and over that again put 
the double flannel bandage as above. 

Alcohol Bandage for Sore Throat. — Take a strip of 
flannel sufficiently long to go three times round the throat ; 
heat it, dip it in alcohol, and, when thoroughly soaked, 
fold it, and apply it to the throat; put over this a strip 
of oiled silk, and over that tie an old silk or linen hand- 
kerchief ; this is a safe, easy, and soothing remedy for 
a sore throat. The bandage should be moistened from 
time to time with alcohol as it dries. 

Bed-Pepper Bandage. — Prepare as above, but dust the 
bandage lightly with red pepper before applying it to the 
throat; it will prove an admirable counter-irritant. 

Barm- and -Oatmeal Poultice for Sore Throat. — Put 
half a teacupful of barm into a saucepan, and put it on 
the fire to boil ; as soon as it boils take it off the fire, 
and stir oatmeal into it until it is of the consistency of a 
soft poultice ; then place it on a rag, and apply it to the 
throat; carefully fasten it on with a bandage, two or three 
turns of the bandage going round, the throat, and two or 
three over the crown of the head, so as to apply the poul- 
tice where it is wanted, that is to say, over the tonsils ; tack 
the bandage, do not pin it. In scarlet fever the poultice 
should be changed three times a day. 

Bread - and - Milk Poultice (Dr. Abernethy). — Scald a 
basin, for you can never make a good poultice unless you 
have perfectly boiling water ; then, having put in some 
boiling water, throw in some coarsely crumbled bread, and 
cover it with a plate; when the bread has soaked up as 



HOUSEHOLD, TOILET, AND MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 515 

much water as it will hold, drain off the remaining wa- 
ter, and there will be left a light pulp ; spread it a third 
of an inch thick on folded linen, and apply when of the 
temperature of a warm bath ; it may be said that this 
poultice will be very inconvenient if there is no lard in it, 
for it will soon get dry ; but this is the very thing you 
want, and it can be easily moistened by dropping warm 
water on it, while a greasy poultice will be moist, but not 
wet. 

Bran Poultice. — Stir bran into a vessel containing 
either a pint or a quart (according to the size of the poul- 
tice required) of boiling water, until it be of the consist- 
ency of a soft poultice ; then put it into a flannel bag, 
and apply it to the part affected ; when cool, dip it from 
time to time in hot water. 

Linseed Poultice. — Stir linseed into a vessel containing 
either a pint or a quart of boiling water, and continue 
stirring steadily, but slowly, until it comes to a boil ; then 
take the vessel instantly from the fire ; spread the poul- 
tice half an inch thick on folded linen, and apply when 
the temperature is of blood heat; this is an excellent poul- 
tice. In cases of inflammation of the bowels it may be 
improved by the addition of two tablespoonf uls of mustard 
powder and a tablespoonful of olive-oil ; the latter in- 
gredient prevents it from drying too soon. 

Flaxseed Poultice — Is made as above, omitting the 
mustard and olive-oil. 

Yeast Poultice (Dr. Abernethy).— One pound of flour ; 
one ounce of yeast. 

Mix with very hot water; keep stirring until beaten 
together, and spread on soft linen or cotton. 

Linseed-Meal Poultice.— Scald the basin in which you 



516 THE UNKIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

make the poultice, and then throw in a little finely ground 
linseed ; pour a little hot water on it, and stir carefully 
until the mixture is quite smooth ; proceed in this way 
until you have a sufficient quantity, then spread the poul- 
tice on a piece of soft linen ; it should be a quarter of 
an inch thick, and so wide that it will cover the inflamed 
part; put a bit of hog's lard in the centre of it, and when 
it begins to melt draw the edge of the knife over, and 
grease the surface of the poultice ; when made in this 
way it is smooth and soft. 

Alum Poultice. — Beat up the whites of two eggs with 
one drachm of alum ; afterwards drain it off from the un- 
mixed portion of alum ; put it between muslin, and apply 
it to sore eyes. 

Hemlock Poultice. — Two drachms of dried hemlock ; 
two pints of water boiled down to one ; add sufficient lin- 
seed meal to make it of a proper consistency. Excellent 
for cancerous and scrofulous ulcers, and malignant sores. 

Mustard Poultice. — Equal parts of flour of mustard 
and wheaten flour mixed with warm, not boiling, water. 

Mutton -Suet Poultice. — Equal parts of rolled bread 
crumbs and finely chopped mutton suet. 

Put them in a saucepan with boiling water, and keep 
stirring over the fire until quite smooth ; this is a very 
good soft poultice. 



BOTTLED SAUCES, CATSUPS, VIN- 
EGARS, AND ESSENCES. 

Curry Powder, No. 1. — Two tablespoonfuls of pow- 
dered ginger ; one tablespoonf ul of fresh turmeric ; three 
or four cloves ; a blade of mace ; two or three cardamom 
seeds; some cayenne and black pepper, and salt to taste. 
This is enough for a pair of chickens or a breast of mut- 
ton. Add two onions and a dessertspoonful of flour ; 
pound all well in a mortar, stir into the gravy, and stew 
with the meat. 

Curry Powder, No. 2. — Twelve ounces of coriander 
seed; six ounces of black pepper; one ounce and a half 
of cummin seed ; three ounces of fenugreek ; six ounces 
of pale turmeric. 

Found these ingredients very fine, and dry them in a 
Dutch oven, stirring them often ; when cold, put into a 
dry jar, and cork it lightly. 

Mushroom Powder. — Take large mushrooms ; peel 
them, and take out the gills ; dry them in an oven on tins, 
and, when dry, pound in a mortar. 

India Sauce for Chops, No. 1. — One ounce of black 
pepper, pounded fine ; half an ounce of allspice ; one 
ounce of salt ; half an ounce of grated horseradish ; half 
an ounce of shallots, peeled and quartered. 

Put these ingredients into a jar, pour over them a pint 
of either mushroom or walnut catsup, steep for a fort- 
night, then strain and bottle. A teaspoonful of this add- 



518 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

ed to thick melted butter, or strong stock, makes a most 
acceptable sauce. 

India Sauce, 'No. 2. — Two wineglassfuls of port wine; 
two wineglassfuls of walnut pickle ; four wineglassfuls of 
mushroom catsup; half a dozen anchovies, boned, skinned, 
and pounded fine ; half a dozen shallots, sliced and pound- 
ed; one tablespoonful of soy ; half a drachm of cayenne 
pepper ; one tablespoonful of brown sugar. 

Let all simmer together gently for ten minutes; then 
strain, and, when cold, bottle, cork, and seal. 

Table Sauce. — A bunch of tarragon. Put the tarragon 
in an earthen bowl ; pour over it one pint of scalding-hot 
vinegar ; cover it, and let it stand until the next day ; then 
strain, and cork it tightly. 

Caramel for Sauces. — Take some fine dry sugar and 
put it into a stewpan, without a drop of water ; put it on 
the fire and stir continually until it has assumed a fine 
brown color; then take it from the fire, and pour on 
enough water to liquefy it ; put the caramel thus prepared 
into a porcelain jar, which should be tightly closed ; it can 
be used to color any brown sauce or soup. 

Caramel with Bordeaux Wine for Sauces and Soups. — 
Prepare some sugar as above, and, before putting it on 
the fire, put in another stewpan a bottle of Bordeaux wine 
with the peel of a lemon ; the Bordeaux w T ine should heat 
a bain-marie while the sugar is browning; when the sugar 
is browned pour over it the wine instead of water ; stir 
until the sugar is melted; then strain and bottle; a tea- 
spoonful of this is an addition to any soup. 

Tincture of Cochineal (for coloring). — Cochineal, ten 
grains ; proof spirit, one ounce. 

Mix in a glass bottle, and steep ; the cochineal takes a 



BOTTLED SAUCES, CATSUPS, VINEGAKS, ETC. 519 

long time to dissolve, and the bottle must be frequently 
shaken. 

Tincture of Celery (for flavoring). — Half an ounce of 
bruised celery seeds ; two ounces of spirits of wine. 

Put it into a bottle, cork, and let it stand near the lire 
for three or four days ; a few drops will greatly improve 
broth or soup. The seed, in a muslin bag, may be boiled 
in soup. 

Walnut Catsup. — Choose young, tender walnuts, prick 
with a needle in several places, and lay in a jar, with a 
handful of salt to every twenty-five, and water enough to 
cover them ; break them with a billet of wood, and let 
them lie in the pickle a fortnight, stirring twice a day ; 
drain off the liquor into a saucepan, and cover the shells 
with boiling vinegar to extract the juice; then crush to a 
pulp, and strain through a coarse sieve into the saucepan ; 
allow for every quart of juice one ounce of black pepper, 
one ounce of ginger, half an ounce of cloves, half an 
ounce of nutmeg, one tiny pinch of cayenne, and one tiny 
pinch of burned sugar, all grated fine ; half a shallot, 
chopped fine; one coffeespoonful of celery seed tied in a bag. 

Boil all together for an hour if there be a gallon of 
the mixture ; bottle when cold, stirring up from the bot- 
tom before filling each bottle. 

.Butternut Catsup — Is made in precisely the same way. 

Lemon Catsup. — Twelve large, fresh lemons ; four 
tablespoonf uls of white mustard seed ; one tablespoonful 
of turmeric ; one tablespoonful of white pepper; one tea- 
spoonful of cloves ; one teaspoonful of mace ; one salt- 
spoonful of cayenne ; two tablespoonfuls of white sugar ; 
two tablespoonfuls of grated horseradish ; one shallot, 
minced fine ; juice of the lemons ; two tablespoonfuls of 
fine salt. 



520 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Grind the spices, grate the rind of the lemons, and put 
all together, adding the horseradish ; strew the salt over 
all ; pour over the lemon juice, and let it stand ; boil in a 
porcelain kettle half an hour ; pour into a stone jar, cover 
closely, and let it stand fourteen days, stirring daily ; then 
strain, bottle, and seal. 

Cucumber Catsup. — Take full-grown cucumbers and a 
third part of their weight of onions ; pare and slice them ; 
salt them well, and, in twenty-four hours, squeeze and 
strain them ; to a quart of juice add a quart of white 
wine, and to every two quarts of liquor add three quarters 
of a pound of anchovies, white pepper, mace, a stick of 
horseradish, and a little grated nutmeg. 

Boil all together until the anchovies are dissolved ; then 
strain, and cover both spice and liquid until both are cold, 
when the spice should again be put into the catsup and 
bottled ; it will keep for years'; a small quantity will flavor 
all white dishes without injuring the color. 

Tomato Catsup. — One peck of ripe tomatoes ; one ounce 
of salt; one ounce of mace; one tablespoonful of black 
pepper; one teaspoonful of cayenne; one tablespoonful 
of cloves, powdered ; seven tablespoonf uls of ground mus- 
tard ; one tablespoonful of celery seed, tied in a thin mus- 
lin bag. 

Cut slits in the tomatoes, put into a porcelain kettle, 
and boil until the juice is all extracted and the pulp dis- 
solved ; strain and press through a colander, then through 
a hair sieve ; return to the fire, add the seasoning, and boil 
at least five hours, stirring constantly for the last hour, and 
frequently during the five hours ; let it stand twelve hours 
in a stone jar on the cellar floor ; when cold add a pint of 
strong vinegar ; take out the bag of celery seed, and bot- 
tle, sealing the corks ; keep in a cool, dark place. 

Oyster Catsup. — One quart of oysters ; one tablespoon- 



BOTTLED SAUCES, CATSUPS, VINEGARS, ETC. 521 

ful of salt; one teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, and the 
same of mace; one teacnpfnl of cider or wine vinegar; 
one teacupful of sherry. 

Chop the oysters and boil in their own liquor with a tea- 
cupful of vinegar, skimming the scum as it rises; boil 
three minutes ; strain through a hair cloth ; return the liq- 
uor to the fire; add the wine, pepper, salt, and mace ; boil 
three minutes, and when cold bottle for use, sealing the 
corks. 

Mushroom Catsup. — Two quarts of mushrooms ; a quar- 
ter of a pound of salt. 

Lay in an earthenware pan alternate layers of mush- 
rooms and salt; let them lie six hours; then break into 
bits ; set in a cool place for three days, stirring thoroughly 
every morning ; measure the juice when you have strained 
it, and to every quart add half an ounce of allspice, the 
same quantity of ginger, half a teaspoonful of powdered 
mace, and a teaspoonful of cayenne; put into a stone jar 
closely covered ; set this in a saucepan of boiling water, 
and boil steadily and hard for five hours ; then pour into 
a porcelain-lined kettle and boil an hour longer; let it 
stand all night in a cool place until settled and clear ; pour 
off carefully from the sediment and put in small bottles, 
filling well, corking tight, sealing, and covering the corks 
with bladders. 

Horseradish Vinegar. — Six tablespoonfuls of grated 
horseradish ; one tablespoonf ul of white sugar ; one quart 
of vinegar. 

Scald vinegar and sugar, pour boiling hot over the horse- 
radish ; steep a week ; strain and bottle. 

Celery Vinegar. — One bunch of fresh celery, chopped 
fine, or a quarter of a pound of celery seed ; one quart of 
the best vinegar; one teaspoonful of salt; one tablespoon- 
f ul of white sugar. 



522 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Pat the celery or seed into a jar ; scald the vinegar, sug- 
ar and salt, and pour boiling hot over the celery ; let it 
cool, cover it tightly, and set away. In a fortnight strain 
and put in small bottles, corking tightly. 

Onion Vinegar. — Six large onions ; one tablespoonful 
of salt ; one tablespoonful of white sugar ; one quart of 
the best vinegar. 

Mince the onions, strew on the salt, and let them stand 
five or six hours; scald the vinegar in which the sugar 
has been dissolved, pour over the onions, put into a jar, 
tie down the cover, steep a fortnight, strain, and bottle. 

Mock Capers. — Gather ripe green nasturtium seed, dry 
a day in the sun, put into small jars or wide-mouthed bot- 
tles, pour over them boiling vinegar duly salted, but light- 
ly spiced, and when cold cork closely. Let them stand 
six weeks before using them. 

Spiced Vinegar. — -One quart of the best vinegar; one 
third of an ounce of celery seed ; one third of an ounce 
of fresh sorrel; one third of an ounce of parsley; one 
third of an ounce of mint; one eighth of an ounce of dried 
elder flowers ; two tablespoonf uls of white sugar ; two 
shallots ; one clove of garlic ; three or four whole peppers; 
two cloves; a pinch of grated nutmeg; salt to taste; a 
teaspoonful of the best brandy. 

Steep for one month in a well-covered earthen jar; then 
strain, filter, and bottle. 

Pepper Vinegar (" Common-Sense in the Household "). 
— Six red-pepper pods broken up ; three dozen black pep- 
percorns ; two tablespoonf uls of white sugar ; one quart 
of the best vinegar. 

Scald the vinegar in which the sugar has been dissolved, 
pour over the pepper, put into a jar, and steep a fortnight ; 
strain and bottle. 



BOTTLED SAUCES, CATSUPS, VINEGARS, ETC. 523 

Celery Salt. — Mix dried and grated celery root with 
one fourth its quantity of salt; This is a nice seasoning, 
and keeps a long time. 

Spice Salt. — Quarter of an ounce of powdered thyme, 
bay leaf, and pepper ; one eighth of an ounce each of mar- 
joram and cayenne pepper; half an ounce each of pow- 
dered clove and nutmeg; add an ounce of salt to every 
four ounces of this powder. Mix thoroughly, and keep in 
an air-tight vessel. 

Essence of Citron. — Oil of citron, thirty drops ; proof 
spirit, one ounce. 

Mix. Useful for flavoring sweets. 

Essence of Mace. — Oil of mace, twenty drops ; proof 
spirit, one ounce. 

Mix. Useful for flavoring sweets, sauces, and mulled 
wine. 

Essence of Caraway Seeds. — Oil of caraway, one drachm; 
proof spirit, four drachms. 

Mix. Useful for flavoring sweets. 

Essence for Sauce Piquante. — Put into an earthen stew- 
pan one bottleful of white wine ; half a bottleful of the 
best vinegar; the juice of four lemons; powdered pepper, 
cloves, and mace ; six laurel leaves ; a little thyme and 
basil ; thirty button onions peeled and sliced ; one ounce 
of dried parsley; three cloves of garlic; two tablespoon- 
fuls of brown sugar. 

Heat almost to boiling; then put the stewpan on the 
hot coals, and keep it hot for eight hours ; it must not, 
however, be allowed to boil ; then strain it through a sieve, 
pressing it hard ; when cool, filter it carefully, and pour 
it into small bottles, which should be carefully sealed; a 
very few drops of this essence will serve to flavor a sauce. 



524 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Essence of Spinach (for sauces). — Wash the spinach 
thoroughly through several waters ; then cook it in a very 
little water, with some parsley and a few onion tops ; when 
cooked, throw it instantly into very cold water, allow it to 
remain a few moments, and then put it into a cleato, coarse 
muslin cloth, and press out the juice; the juice will be of 
a beautiful green color, and can be used for coloring puree 
of pease, pistachio cream, or any green sauce ; if you wish 
to preserve it, it should be cooked d bain-marie, and 
strained through a sieve ; the green deposit which remains 
in the sieve should be dried, put into a jar with a closely 
fitting lid, and kept in a cool place; it will regain color 
the moment it is put into broth or sauce. 

Essence of Marjoram. — Essential oil of marjoram, 
twenty drops; proof spirit, one ounce. 
Mix. Useful for flavoring gravy. 

Essence of Savory Spices. — Black pepper, one ounce ; 
powdered allspice, half an ounce ; grated nutmeg, quarter 
of an ounce; proof spirit, one pint. 

Mix, and steep for ten days ; then decant. Useful for 
flavoring savory dishes. 

Essence of Orange or Lemon Peel (i. e., Zest). — Rub the 
yellow peel of fresh lemons or oranges with lumps of 
white sugar, and, when saturated, press them into a wide- 
mouthed bottle, and cork. Infinitely superior to dried 
peel for flavoring. 

Roast Parsley (for sauces and stuffing). — The parsley 
should be fresh and crisp ; as soon as possible after it is 
gathered it should be washed in cold water, and instantly 
dried with a clean cloth ; it should then be placed on a 
gridiron, and roasted before — not over — the fire, which 
should be clear and fierce, so that the parsley may dry as 
quickly as possible ; it will soon curl up, and dry, but will 






BOTTLED SAUCES, CATSUPS, VINEGARS, ETC. 525 



retain its fresh, green color ; it can then be crumbled fine 
with the lingers, and put into a jar; it is extremely useful 
for sauces and stuffing, and prettier than chopped parsley, 
because it retains the color better. 

Spiced Lard. — Put into a casserole three ounces of puri- 
fied lard ; three ounces of beef drippings, clarified ; one and 
a half ounces of fresh butter; the juice of a large lemon; 
a laurel leaf; two cloves; two carrots ; two onions chopped 
fine; some whole peppercorns; a pinch of allspice; salt 
to taste ; a glass of strong broth. 

Boil, stirring continually, until all the ingredients are 
dissolved and well mixed together; then add a little water, 
boil again, and skim carefully; strain through a coarse 
muslin cloth into porcelain jars, which should be tightly 
covered, and kept in a cool, dry place. 

Made Mustard (" Common-Sense in the Household "). 
— Four tablespoonfuls of the best English mustard ; two 
teaspoon fuls of salt ; two teaspoonfuls of white sugar ; one 
teaspoonful of white pepper; two teaspoonfuls of salad 
oil; enough tarragon vinegar to mix to a smooth paste; 
one small garlic pounded to a pulp. 

Pat the mustard in a bowl and wet with the oil, rubbing 
it with a wooden spoon until absorbed ; wet with vinegar 
to a stiff paste; add salt, pepper, sugar, and garlic, and 
work all together thoroughly, wetting, little by little, with 
the vinegar until it is of the consistency of cake batter; 
beat hard for five minutes, put into wide-mouthed bottles, 
cover with a little oil, cork tightly, and set away in a cool 
place. It will keep for weeks, and is fit for use in a few 
days. 



BOTTLED DRINKS. 

Small Beer. — Fifteen gallons of water ; five gallons of 
molasses ; five pounds of wheat bran ; half a pound of 
hops. 

Boil the above ingredients together for three hours; 
strain the mixture into a clean cask, and when milkwarm 
pour in a quart of good yeast ; shake it well, stop it close, 
and bottle when quite clear. The excellence of the beer 
depends upon putting in the yeast at the proper time ; if 
too hot or too cold it will not ferment. 

Boneset Beer. — Eight ounces of race ginger ; two ounces 
of boneset ; two ounces of horehound ; one ounce of sas- 
safras bark ; one ounce of hops ; eight gallons of water. 

Pour the water boiling hot over the other ingredients, 
and let it stand for half an hour, well covered, to draw ; 
then strain and sweeten to taste; put it into a keg, and 
add a teacupf ul of yeast ; bung it tight. 

Spruce Beer. — Two cupfuls of sugar ; one cupful of mo- 
lasses; thirty drops of oil of spruce; thirty drops of oil 
of sassafras ; four quarts of cold, and four quarts of boil- 
ing water ; one quart of homemade yeast. 

Let it stand twelve hours, strain, bottle, and cork tightly. 

Cream Beer. — Two pounds of loaf sugar ; three pints 
of water ; the whites of three eggs ; cream tartar ; half an 
ounce of wintergreen ; the juice of one lemon ; half a cup- 
ful of sifted flour, beaten smooth in water. 

Boil the sugar, acid, and flour in the water for five min- 



BOTTLED DRINKS. 527 

utes ; when nearly cold add the whites of the eggs, essence, 
and lemon ; bottle and keep in a cool place ; use two ta- 
blespoonfnls in half a tumbler of water and a little soda. 

Cream Ginger Beer. — One ounce of race ginger, bruised 
and boiled in one pint of water fifteen minutes ; one hand- 
ful of hops boiled as above ; three large lemons, sliced ; 
ten quarts of cold water; three pounds of loaf sugar; one 
pint of fresh potato yeast. 

Mix the ginger, hops, lemons, and water together; then 
mix the loaf sugar and yeast well together, and add to the 
other ingredients ; strain and bottle, and it is ready for 
use. 

Ginger Beer. — Put into a large crock four pounds of 
loaf sugar ; two ounces of pounded ginger ; the rinds of 
&ve lemons. 

Pour over the above ingredients five gallons of boiling 
hot spring-water; then beat up the whites of five eggs 
with the juice of the five lemons, and mix with the liquor ; 
when it is milkwarm add two tablespoonfuls of barm; 
cover it close for four days ; then strain and bottle it in 
stone bottles, taking care not to fill them quite full. It is 
fit for use in five or six days. 

Beer. — Three pounds of brown sugar; two nutmegs, 
grated ; one teaspoonf ul of ground cloves ; one teaspoon- 
ful of ground cinnamon ; one teaspoonf ul of cream of tar- 
tar ; one pint of baker's yeast. 

Mix these ingredients, add three quarts of water, let it 
stand in a warm place all night, skim it, and it is fit for 
use. 

Sassafras Beer. — One teaspoon fnl of sassafras; the 
grated rind and pulp of three lemons ; one pint of hop 
water; four pounds of loaf sugar ; four gallons of water; 
one pint of good yeast. 



528 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Put the sassafras, hop water, and lemons together, and 
let stand until the flavor of the lemons is imparted; then 
add the sugar, water, and yeast ; when well risen, strain 
and bottle. 

Wine Bitters. — Two ounces of orange peel ; two ounces 
of sweet fennel; one ounce of gentian, sliced fine; one 
ounce of cardamom seed, bruised ; one ounce of camo- 
mile flowers ; one drachm of cochineal ; one gallon of 
brandy. J 

Put all these ingredients into the brandy. In one month 
the bitters will be fit for use. The brandy can be poured 
off, and another gallon of bitters made from the same in- 
gredients. 

A very fine Bitters for Ague Regions. — One ounce of 
gentian root; one ounce of orange peel; one ounce of ju- 
niper berries; three quarters of an ounce of cardamom 
seeds; one gallon of whiskey. 

Shake frequently, and it will be ready for use in a few 
days. It may be replenished by adding more spirits, as it 
diminishes by use, to the extent of a quart. . 

Cherry Bounce, No. 1. — One gallon of the juice of ripe 
cherries; four pounds of loaf sugar ; spice, cinnamon, and 
cloves to taste. 

Pound the cherries with their stones in a mortar, and 
strain them through a coarse sieve or cloth ; then put the 
sugar, juice, and spice on the fire ; let the ingredients come 
slowly to a boil, and, after the actual boiling begins, add 
one quart of brandy and one pint of rum, and pour into 
stone bottles or jugs. Cork the jugs tightly, and keep 
them in a cool place. 

Cherry Bounce, 'No. 2. — One gallon of cherry juice (pre- 
pared as above) ; half a gallon of French brandy or rum ; 
one pound of loaf sugar; a very little cinnamon. 



BOTTLED DRINKS. 529 

Put all the ingredients together and let them stand. 
The bounce will be ready for use in four or five months. 

To Bottle Cider. — For one hogshead of cider take one 
gallon of good French brandy; half an ounce of cochi- 
neal; one pound of alum ; three pounds of rock candy. 

Pound all well in a mortar, and put them in the bran- 
dy for a day or two ; then mix the whole with the cider, 
and stop it close for six months, after which, if fine, bottle 
it off. The brandy will keep the bottles from bursting. 

Artificial Cider. — One gallon of hot water ; one pound 
of brown sugar; half an ounce of cream of tartar. 

Pour the mixture into a jug, let it stand till lukewarm, 
and add three tablespoonf uls of yeast ; shake all well to- 
gether ; let it stand twenty-four hours, and then cork it 
tight. 

Kentucky Blackberry Cordial. — Fresh blackberries, well 
washed and picked. 

Put them in a kettle with just enough water to simmer 
them, and when soft mash and put them in a flannel bag 
to drain ; then for every pint of juice add one half pound 
of sugar, clarify with white of an egg, and strain ; to ev- 
ery quart of syrup add one pint of good brandy. 

Blackberry Cordial (William Penn's). — Two quarts of 
blackberry juice ; one pound of loaf sugar ; half an ounce 
of nutmeg, grated ; half an ounce of stick cinnamon ; half 
an ounce of cloves ; half an ounce of allspice. 

Boil all together for half an hour, strain, and when cold 
add a pint of fourth-proof brandy ; bottle and cork well. 

Ginger Cordial. — Four pounds of red currants, picked 
and strung; the juice of three lemons and grated rind of 
one; eight ounces of ginger, not bruised; one ounce of 
sweet almonds, blanched and pounded to a paste; one 

23 



530 THE UNEIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

ounce of bitter almonds, blanched and pounded to a paste ; 
one gallon of whiskey. 

Put all the ingredients together in a large earthenware 
jar, cover, and let them stand six weeks; then strain care- 
fully, and mix with a syrup made by boiling four pounds 
of crushed white sugar with one quart of water; clarify 
with beaten white of egg; after being clarified, this syrup 
should be poured boiling hot into the strained cordial, 
stirring carefully all the time ; when quite cold, bottle, 
and set away for use. 

Black-Currant Cordial. — Bruise the currants well, and 
put them over the fire witli a little water and sugar ; boil 
up once; then squeeze through a flannel bag and strain 
again; to each quart of juice add one pint of water; to 
every ten quarts of this add fourteen pounds of sugar; 
put over the fire, and after it has come to a boil allow it 
to boil three minutes; then "take from the fire, and add 
whiskey in the proportion of three pints of whiskey to 
every seven pints of juice. 

Mississippi Pomegranate Cordial. — Separate the fruit 
from the core, and mash it sufficiently to obtain juice 
enough to keep the fruit from burning; steam it slowly 
over the fire in a porcelain kettle until all the juice is 
extracted from the seeds; then strain the juice from the 
seeds, and allow to each gallon of juice two pounds of 
loaf sugar and half a gallon of good spirits ; bottle close- 
ly, and let it stand several months before using it. 

Mint Cordial. — One gallon of the best brandy ; two 
large handfuls of mint. 

Put the brandy and mint into a stone jar, and let it 
stand for twenty-four hours; then take the mint out and 
press it gently, adding the same quantity of fresh mint 
to the brandy ; soak again for twenty-four hours ; then 
strain the liquor, and add to each pint of liquor three 



BOTTLED DRINKS. 531 

quarters of a pound of loaf sugar ; when the sugar is dis- 
solved let it stand a little while to settle, and bottle it. 

Kirsch. — Take a pound of wild plums, mash them, and 
take out the stones and crack them ; throw them in a gal- 
lon of brandy; let them steep a month ; filter, and you 
have the famous kirsch. Syrup, added to taste, makes a 
delicious cordial. 

Raspberry Cordial. — Dissolve three pounds of sugar in 
a pint and a half of raspberry juice; add half a pound of 
mashed ripe cherries and one quart of i^ood brandy ; strain 
and filter. 

Maraschino. — Dissolve four pounds of sugar in a quart 
of w T ater ; add a quart of alcohol ; filter and pour into 
bottles; add. to each bottle just enough essence of bitter 
almonds to flavor. . 

Curaeoa. — Six bitter oranges; the grated rind of four. 
, Put this to steep a week in a quart of alcohol with two 
cloves, a spoonful of cinnamon, and a teaspoonful of mace; 
strain, and add a syrup made of six pounds of sugar dis- 
solved in three pints of water ; leave it a month, and bot- 
tle it. 

Lemon Punch to Keep. — Twelve lemons; the peel of 
twelve lemons shaved very thin; one gallon of water; 
two pounds of loaf sugar ; one quart of the best whis- 
key. 

Boil the rinds of the twelve lemons in a gallon of wa- 
ter until the flavor is extracted ; squeeze the lemons over 
; the loaf sugar, and add them to the water after strain- 
ing the peel from it; stir in the whiskey, and bottle for 
use. 

Orgeat.— Half a pound of almonds, blanched and pound- 



532 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

ed in a mortar, and mixed with a little rose water; one 
quart of boiling water. 

When nearly cold, strain, sweeten, and flavor with rose 
water. 

Milk .Punch to Keep.—HdM a gallon of the best white 
brandy ; half a gallon of rum; three pounds of white loaf 
sugar, grated / two grated nutmegs; the juice of eighteen 
lemons; two quarts of boiling milk; five quarts of cold 
water. 

Soak the rinds of the lemons in the rum and brandy for 
forty-eight hours; then strain the liquor; add first the 
sugar, then the lemon juice, then the nutmeg, then the 
cold water, and, last of all, and when the other ingredients 
have been thoroughly mixed, the boiling milk ; stir stead- 
ily all the time ; when mixed, strain through a flannel bag. 
Filtering through paper will make it bright. Bottle for 
use, as it will keep any length of time. 

Currant Shrub. — Press the juice from the currants with- 
out heating them ; put it in a dry, warm place to undergo 
a slight fermentation ; after a few days remove the scum 
from the top, and use the clear part of the juice, leaving 
the thick scum at the bottom. To a pint of clear juice 
add two pounds of the best white crushed sugar; when 
dissolved, scald all together for a moment and bottle the 
mixture. It will keep for two years, and, mixed with wa- 
ter, is a refreshing drink. 

Lemon Syrup. — One quart of lemon juice ; three pounds 
of loaf sugar. 

Boil to a syrup ; when it has boiled thoroughly, pour it 
hot over the rinds of the lemons and let it cool ; then strain 
and bottle for use. Excellent. 

Lime Syrup. — Prepare as above, adding a little more 
sugar if necessary. Delicious with iced soda water. 



BOTTLED DRINKS. 533 

Raspberry Vinegar. — One quart of ripe berries ; one 
quart of strong vinegar. 

Put the raspberries into a bowl, pour on them a quart 
of strong vinegar, let it stand twenty-four hours, then 
strain through a flannel bag, and pour this liquor on an- 
other quart of berries ; do this for three or four days suc- 
cessively, and strain it ; make it very sweet with loaf sug- 
ar, bottle, and seal it. 

Raspberry Royal. — Four quarts of ripe berries; one 
quart of the best cider vinegar ; one pound of white sug- 
ar; one pint of fine brandy. 

Put the berries into a stone jar and mash them to a pulp ; 
add enough of the best cider vinegar to cover the fruit 
well; stand in the sun four hours; strain, squeeze out the 
juice, and put in the brandy ; seal in bottles, and lay them 
on their sides in the cellar ; cover the bottles with saw- 
dust: pour two tablespoonfuls to a tumblerful of ice- 
water. 

Slack -Currant Wine. — One gallon of whiskey; four 
quarts of black currants ; four pounds of brown or white 
sugar; one tablespoonful of cloves; one tablespoonful of 
cinnamon. 

Crush the currants, and let them stand in the whiskey 
with the spices for three weeks ; then strain and add the 
sugar ; set away again for three weeks longer ; then strain 
and bottle. 

Red- Currant Wine. — Take fresh and very ripe currants, 
pick, string, and mash them, and add to every quart of 
juice three quarters of a pound of white sugar, and half a 
pint of water. 

Stir all together long and well, put into a clean cask, 
leaving out the bung, and covering the whole with a bit 
of lace or mosquito net ; let it ferment about four weeks ; 
when quite still strain and bottle. 



534 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Blackberry Wine.— One, quart of strained juice of the 
ripe berry; two quarts of water; allow three pounds of 
sugar to every gallon of the liquid, and set it away to fer- 
ment; skim it every day for three weeks, and then put it 
into a keg or jug; at Christinas it may be drained off and 
bottled for use ; the older it grows the better it will be. 
This receipt will serve for grapes, except that hot water is 
used — one pint only to a gallon of juice. 

Elderberry Wine.— One quart of juice ; one quart of 
water ; half a pound of loaf sugar. 

Let it stand in an open vessel for twenty-four hours; 
then strain it carefully into bottles, and cork them tight. 

Rhubarb Wine. — Five pounds of rhubarb cut into small 
pieces ; one gallon of water. Let it stand for ten da}^, 
stirring it twice a day; then strain it through a sieve, and 
add four pounds of loaf sugar to a gallon ; put it into a 
clean cask, and let it remain five months; then add the 
rind and juice of three lemons; half a pint of. brandy, and 
half an ounce of isinglass; in a few days it maybe bottled, 
putting two raisins into each bottle; cork and seal the 
bottles. 

Strawberry Wine. — To the juice of three quarts of 
strawberries, mashed and strained, add for each quart of 
juice one quart of water ; one pound of loaf sugar. 

Stir up well, and ferment in a clean, sweet cask, leaving 
the bung out ; when quite quiet strain into bottles, and 
cork for use. 

Cranherry Wine. — To two quarts of ripe cranberries, 
mashed to a pulp, add one quart of water; stir well, and 
let it Stand for two days ; strain through a double-flannel 
bag ; mash two more quarts of berries, and pour this juice 
over; steep two days more ; strain; add one pound of 
loaf sugar for three quarts of liquor, and boil five minutes; 



BOTTLED DRINKS. 535 

let it ferment in lightly covered jars ; strain and bottle. 
Said to be good for scrofula. 

Raisin Wine. — One pound of white sugar; two pounds 
of raisins seeded and chopped ; one lemon, all the juice, 
and half the grated peel ; two gallons of boiling water. 

Put all into a stone jar, and stir every day for a week; 
then strain and bottle; it will be fit for use in ten days. 

Florida Orange Wine. — Twen ty gallons of water ; sixty 
pounds of loaf sugar; twenty quarts of orange juice. 

Boil the sugar and water, skimming it until the foam 
disappears ; then let it cool, and, when quite cold, add the 
orange juice ; put it in a cask with a piece of leaven, and 
leave it uncorked, to ferment, for about six weeks, or until 
it ceases to work ; then cork it tight, and leave it undis- 
turbed for six months, when it is fit to be bottled. 



MISCELLANEOUS SAVORY 
DISHES. 

ENTBEES. 

Potted Beef. — Two pounds of tender beef without fat 
or skin ; beat it ; then put it into a covered jar w T ith two 
ounces of butter, two tablespoonfuls of water, and a blade 
of mace. 

Bake slowly until thoroughly cooked ; pound in mortar 
while hot, adding the gravy, with a quarter of a pound of 
butter; flavor with pepper, salt, and essence of anchovy; 
press it tightly into pots, and cover with butter. 

Chicken Cream. — Take one pound of the white part of 
a chicken and a quarter of a pound of ham ; mince; pound 
in mortar, and pass through a sieve ; add two ounces of 
fresh butter, three eggs well beaten, and half a pint of 
whipped cream ; flavor to taste with salt, ground mace, 
and the merest soupgon of cayenne; also, essence of celery. 

Pound all well together again, put into buttered scallop 
shells, and bake ; or steam in buttered mould for twen- 
ty minutes, and serve with bechamel, oyster, celery, or to- 
mato sauce. 

Hot Marrow-bones. — Choose some good marrow-bones; 
scrape clean, and boil until the marrow is tender and 
luscious ; then take out the bones, dry them carefully, and 
envelop each in white paper ruffed at each end as for ham. 
Tie a ribbon round each one, arrange on a hot plate, and 
hand with hot toast, cut into squares, to each guest ; the 



MISCELLANEOUS SAVORY DISHES. 537 

marrow is then emptied on the toast, and eaten with salt 
and pepper. This is a delicious relish. 

Croutes a la Moelle de Bmif — Lay in cold water for 
two hours two or three pieces of beef marrow from five to 
six inches long ; then put them in a stewpan, and cook 
in a little bouillon; boil for some minutes; then with- 
draw the stewpan from the hot lire ; a quarter of an hour 
afterwards drain the marrow, cut into small pieces, spread 
on hot toast, season with salt and cayenne, dust with a 
little powdered chives, arrange on a napkin, and serve 
hot. 

Boar, Wild, in Dolceforte. — Take cutlets of wild boar, 
trim, clean, and put them to soak for six hours in a bath 
of the finest olive-oil (just enough to cover them), with a 
little salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, powdered cinnamon, two 
or three shallots, a small clove of garlic, some chopped 
parsley, and a little lemon juice ; cover closely, and leave 
six hours in a cool place ; then wipe perfectly dry, and 
put them into a saucepan with a little lean ham sliced 
thin, and a piece of fresh butter; cook until they are a 
light brown on both sides ; then cover with beefsteak, 
and stew until tender; then drain; place on a hot plate, 
and cover with the following sauce, called Dolceforte: 
Half a tumblerful of powdered sugar ; three quarters of 
a tumblerful of strong vinegar; one cofieecupful of Sul- 
tana raisins, seeded ; one coffeecupful of pinocchi, i. <?., 
pine nuts (blanched almonds may be substituted); half a 
cake of the best chocolate, grated. 

Mix; throw into the gravy in which the wild boar has 
cooked, boil up once, thicken with rolled bread crumbs, 
pour over the boar, and serve ; garnish with sliced 
lemon. 

Breakfast Brawn. — Cut into small pieces and simmer 
half an ox foot, twenty peppercorns, six allspice berries^ 

23* 



538 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

three cloves, a blade of mace, two button onions in a tum- 
blerful of water for an hour, until the gelatinous substance 
is quite soft ; strain the liquor, and add half a teacupf ul 
of rich pork or veal gravy ; stir all together, and keep 
lukewarm until the meat is ready for the mould ; but first 
pour in a little gravy to cover and jelly in the bottom of 
the mould, while you are cutting up the meat, which will 
make it turn out with a nice jelly on top; cut into small, neat 
pieces half a pound of any kind of cooked or tinned meat, 
or tongue; if bacon or a little fat pork is liked, boil a little 
with the ox foot, and cut it up with the other meat; season 
the meat well with pepper and salt, mix the gravy among 
it, and press it down firmly into the mould ; when cold it 
should turn out a nice shape of meat encased in jelly. 

Scrambles. — Mince a small tin of chicken, or a small 
boiled chicken, with a quarter of a pound of boiled bacon, 
three small pickled gherkins, and six pickled onions; seaT 
son highly with pepper and salt, and a very little nutmeg; 
pour in a teacupful of good gravy in which sufficient gela- 
tine has been dissolved to make it jelly, when cold, with 
a teaspoonful of made mustard ; butter some teacups, and, 
after placing at the bottom of each a tiny red star of beet 
root, pour in the mixture ; if a dozen scrambles are made, 
half of them can be garnished in this way, and half with 
stars made out of the white of egg boiled. In this man- 
ner can be made quite a novel and piquant dish for lunch- 
eon. 

Potted Chicken. — Pound some tinned or boiled chicken 
(freed from bone) in a mortar; boil an egg quite hard, rub 
the yolk to powder, and mix it to a smooth, creamy liquid 
with three tablespoonfuls of rich. cream, and a teaspoon- 
ful of sugar ; add, drop by drop, a tablespoonful of 
white vinegar, beating all the time; mince a small button 
onion, and leave for an hour in the mixture to draw out 
the flavor; then strain, incorporate thoroughly with the 



MISCELLANEOUS SAVORY DISHES. 539 

chicken, which shape into a cone or mound ; garnish with 
a wreath of watercress, and serve ; this quantity is suffi- 
cient for a pound of chicken, and makes an agreeable 
change for breakfast or luncheon. 

Brother Jonathan. — Make a mush of Indian meal, add- 
ing enough wheat flour to prevent the pieces from break- 
ing when they are sliced ; make the mush the day before 
it is wanted, and set it to cool in a deep pan, that the slices 
may be large enough ; turn out the cool mass, and cut it 
in slices ; then, with the top of a teacup, cut out circles like 
shortcake ; put these little circles round a plate or dish, 
in a row ; then add another row on top of these, and so on 
until you form a low pyramid ; sprinkle each row freely 
with rich grated cheese ; dot the top row thickly with bits 
of butter, and dust with grated bread crumbs and red 
pepper; brown in a quick oven, and serve in the dish in 
which it is baked. Two or three yolks of eggs stirred into 
the mush while warm will add to the richness. 

Green Butter. — Two ounces of parsley picked from the 
stalk, boiled till tender, and the juice pressed from it ; two 
ounces of anchovy fish, washed, boned, and pounded fine; 
four ounces of fresh butter to be thoroughly mixed with 
the parsley and anchovy, and passed through a very fine, 
clean sieve ; press into shape like a cream cheese, and keep 
in the cold until wanted. 

Green Cream Cheese. — Two ounces of parsley, washed, 
dried, and roasted before a clear, fierce fire until it can be 
crumbled to a fine green powder; one ounce of fresh 
watercress, washed, dried, and chopped very fine ; one 
ounce of celery pounded to a pulp ; blend all thoroughly 
and smoothly with four ounces of fresh cream cheese ;- 
pass through a fine, clean sieve ; salt to taste ; add the 
faintest soupcon of cayenne ; then press into shapes like 
tiny cream cheeses, and keep in a cold place until wanted; 



540 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

SIMPLE ENTREES. 

Brewis. — Half a loaf of stale white or brown bread ; put 
into the saucepan with any joint of boiled salt beef, and 
allow to simmer with it till well soaked through and per- 
fectly soft ; turn out into a vegetable dish, and keep hot 
by the side of the fire until the meat is ready; serve with 
it. This is a well-known Scotch dish, and an excellent 
accompaniment to boiled beef. 

Savory Bice. — Thoroughly boil a large cupful of rice ; 
have ready a buttered pie-dish, and a pint and a half of 
good strong stock; drain the rice; turn it into a pie-dish; 
pour the stock over it; add a seasoning of pepper, salt, 
and butter; place it in the oven for ten minutes, and serve 
very hot. 

Aspic Jelly. — Put two calf's feet, a knuckle bone of veal, 
and a shank of ham into a stewpan with a pint and a half, 
or rather more, of good stock ; stew this down to a glaze; 
then pour on it a pint and a half more stock ; add to this 
a sprig of parslej^, one onion, two or three cloves, three 
carrots, two or three bay leaves, a little salt, and let it 
stew for six hours more, skimming it well ; strain it into 
a basin to get cold ; then put the four whites of eggs with 
the strained juice of two lemons into a stewpan, add the 
jellied stock, and heat it over the fire until the mixture 
is on the point of boiling; next remove the stewpan to 
the side, and place fire on the top of it ; let it stand about 
twenty minutes more; after this strain it through a jelly 
bag until quite clear, when it will be fit for use. 

Jellied Chicken. — Soak an ounce of gelatine in a teacup- 
f ul of cold water for twenty minutes, squeeze it quite dry, 
and melt it in a pint of clear stock in which a large table- 
spoonful of marjoram and half a rind of a lemon have been 
simmered for ten minutes ; season to taste with salt and 



MISCELLANEOUS SAVORY DISHES. 541 

pepper, and strain the liquor; cover the bottom of a 
mould half an inch thick with gravy, and, when nicely set 
in jelly, place upon it slices of hard-boiled egg, prettily 
cut beets, pickled gherkins and cucumbers in ornamental 
shapes; mince together finely two pounds of chicken, half 
a pound of cooked ham, and half a pound of boiled tongue ; 
season and press this firmly into a compact lump, and put 
it into the mould in such a manner that it leaves an inch 
of space round every side, this space being filled with the 
gravy, which should not be poured in until quite cool, so 
that it may jelly quickly and preserve the shape of the 
meat. This dish can be made very pretty, and in cold 
weather will keep for a week. 

Ragout of Livers (Augustin's entree). — Prepare your 
chicken livers carefully, and have them whole; bleach 
them a moment in boiling water, and put them immedi- 
ately in a saucepan with gravy or bouillon, half a glassful 
of white wine, a bunch of parsley, half a clove of garlic, 
salt and pepper; let it boil half an hour, skim it careful- 
ly, take out the soup bunch, thicken the sauce with a lit- 
tle flour, and serve. 

Salpicon (Madame Eugene's entree). — Make a white 
roux : moisten it with bouillon and a glassful of white 
wine ; add a soup bunch, salt, and pepper ; let it boil and 
thicken ; take for your ragout equal portions of whatever 
cold meats, fowl, game, livers, ham and tongue, mushrooms, 
bottoms of artichokes, you may have, and cut them in lit- 
tle dice; let them simmer and color; take out the soup 
bunch ; thicken the sauce with a little flour if necessary ; 
fill little pates and vol au vents, and serve. 

Crow's Fried Chicken. — Cut up your chicken, wipe it 
carefully, season it with salt and pepper, and sprinkle light- 
ly with flour ; throw in, piece by piece, in boiling lard ; 
drain on brown paper ; serve it surrounded by fried parsley. 



542 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Ravioli. — -Make a paste with fresh eggs, flour, and a lit- 
tle salt; roll it out very thin, and powder it very lightly 
with flour; cut up any cold meats you have — game, poul- 
try, or butcher's meat; season highly; bind it with the 
yellow of an egg, and put at equal distances, on half the 
sheet of paste, a spoonful of the mixture ; cover with the 
other sheet of paste, press the paste carefully around each 
spoonful of stuffing, and cut them apart ; throw them into 
boiling bouillon for five minutes, and serve with grated 
cheese. 

Ckicken-and- Corn Pudding. — Cut up a chicken and fric- 
assee it with a rich sauce; boil a dozen ears of corn, cut it 
off the cob, season with salt and pepper, a piece of but^ 
ter as large as an egg, and beat in five eggs and enough 
milk to make it the right consistency; butter a deep bak- 
ing-dish and put in a layer of the corn pudding, then the 
chicken and sauce, and, last, another layer of corn pudding ; 
bake, and serve hot. 

Milanaise Croquettes. — Cut up equal parts of chicken, 
tongue, truffles, and macaroni in little dice; mix together 
with a white sauce and grated Parmesan cheese; serve in 
scallop shells. 

Neapolitan Chicken Livers. — Take the best Neapolitan 
macaroni, Parmesan cheese, fresh butter, and two dozen 
chicken livers; chop the livers, with celery, salt and pep- 
per, and eschalottes ; blanch your macaroni in boiling wa- 
ter, and drain ; in the meantime cook your livers and sea- 
sonings in a saucepan with butter; then put alternate lay- 
ers of macaroni and liver and Parmesan cheese in a bak- 
ing-dish, and cover with grated cheese; bake over a slow 
fire, and serve. 

Bombay Curry. — Any cold cooked meat or fowl, well 
floured; add pepper and salt, a little ham and bacon, and 



MISCELLANEOUS SAVOHY DISHES. 543 

a little soup meat ; fry two chopped onions and put in the 
stewpan, adding a tablespoonful of curry powder, the same 
of pea flour, some cold boiled potatoes, peeled and sliced 
apples, and rice ; put all these in a stewpan with a little 
butter and salt, and enough bouillon to moisten all; the 
vegetables, rice, etc., must 'be put in first ; the meat some 
ten minutes later; stew until all the ingredients are thor- 
oughly cooked. 

Madras Curry. — Two heaping teaspoonfuls of curry 
paste ; one and a half pounds of apples, sliced and stewed 
until soft; two ounces of butter; half a teaspoonful of 
Worcestershire sauce ; two teaspoonfuls of lemon juice ; 
one teaspoonful of Liebig's extract ; one teacupf nl.of rice ; 
salt and cayenne pepper to taste; enough bouillon to cov- 
er all. 

Let all stew together until soft; then add the fowl, 
which should previously be cut up and fried lightly in 
butter; stew until all the ingredients are thoroughly 
cooked ; garnish with slices of lemon, and serve. 

Russian Bread Croquettes. — Take some well -risen 
doucrh : roll it out on the bread-board with a little fresh 
butter, kneading and rolling again and again, until the but- 
ter is thoroughly incorporated with the dough ; then roll 
out into a sheet and cut into rounds with a tumbler ; place 
a spoonful of any- good savory hash in the middle of each 
round, and fold the paste over carefully so as to enclose 
the hash completely; brush the outside of the paste with 
beaten white of egg, and drop the croquettes so prepared 
into boiling fat ; when fried to a light brown, remove with 
a perforated strainer; drain on white paper, remove to a 
hot dish, dust with pepper and salt, and serve. 

Croquettes of Spinach. — Wash the spinach carefully 
through several waters, chop it fine, and put it into a por- 
celain saucepan witli some fresh butter, a little marjoram. 



544 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

parsley, salt and pepper to taste, a spoonful of white sug- 
ar, and the grated rind of half a lemon ; put the saucepan 
on the fire, adding a tumblerful of milk, and cook slowly 
until all the milk is absorbed ; withdraw the saucepan from 
the fire, and when the spinach is somewhat cooled add 
two eggs, beaten light; stir all \tfell together, and then flour 
your hands and proceed to shape the croquettes, dipping 
them afterwards in beaten white of egg and rolled bread 
crumbs ; when all are breaded, drop them into boiling fat 
and fry a light brown ; dust with pepper and salt, and serve. 

Croquettes de Fines Heroes — Are made exactly as above, 
using beet tops instead of spinach, and adding a small quan- 
tity of as many different sweet herbs as possible. 

Farina Croquettes. — Boil some farina in milk with a 
little salt until it is quite thick; then take the stewpan 
from the fire, and when the farina is somewhat cooled, add 
some eggs, beaten light ; beat these well and smoothly into 
the farina, and then shape the croquettes, which should be 
small oval balls ; roll in beaten white of egg, then in bread 
crumbs, and fry a light brown. 

Wet Devil. — Any cold meat or fowl ; one teaspoonful 
of currant jelly ; one mustardspoonf ul of made mustard ; 
one tablespoonf ul of tomato catsup ; one tabiespoonful of 
mushroom ; one dessertspoonful of Worcestershire sauce ; 
a teaspoonful of Harvey sauce ; a glassful of red wine. 

Mix, and send to table red-hot. 

Curried Fish. — One teaspoonful of curry powder, with 
raw rice pounded fine ; two cloves of garlic ; a pinch of 
ginger ; a few peppercorns ; a little turmeric ; half an 
onion; butter, stock, and a dessertspoonful of vinegar; 
also a tiny pinch of sugar; this can be served with any 
kind of cold fish ; in stewing, the fish, of course, should be 
put in last. 



MISCELLANEOUS SAVORY DISHES. 545 

Kedgeree, No. 1. — Boil two tablespoonfuls of rice, and 
drain it as dry as possible ; have ready some cooked fish, 
boned, skinned, and pulled into small pieces. 

Mix this thoroughly with the rice, and heat over the 
fire ; then beat up an egg very light, and stir well into the 
rice and fish ; add white pepper, cayenne, and salt to taste. 

Kedgeree, !N"o. 2. — Four ounces of well-boiled rice, dry 
and tender ; put into a saucepan with fish as above, an 
ounce or two of fresh butter, full seasoning of cayenne, 
and salt to taste. 

Stir the kedgeree constantly over a clear fire until very 
hot ; then mingle quickly with it two lightly beaten eggs ; 
stir quickly again, put on hot dish, and serve. 

Stewed Kidneys. — Lay them in salt and water for a few 
minutes ; cut off the outside, or meat ; slice thinly ; put 
them into a stewpan with a little water, and cook until 
tender ; then add pepper, salt, butter, and a little browned 
flour for thickening ; last of all a glassful of port wine, 
and a little roasted powdered parsley. 

Kidneys a la Vieville. — Proceed as-above, stewing them 
in a little melted butter instead of water, adding also some 
chopped shallots ; when they are almost cooked, season 
with salt and cayenne ; then take them out and drain them ; 
meanwhile pour into the casserole in which the kidneys 
were cooked a wineglassful of Madeira, and an equal 
quantity of strong stock ; let the sauce come to a boil, and 
thicken with a little sauce Espagnole / let it boil up once, 
then add the kidneys, two spoonfuls of cooked ham cut 
into dice, and a pinch of chopped tarragon ; stir and put 
into a hot dish, surrounding them with fried crusts of 
bread. . 

Devilled Kidneys.— Parboil in a little salt and water ; 
then pass on a skewer and roast in a Dutch oven, basting 



546 THE UNKIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

with batter and water; dust with a little mustard and 
cayenne before roasting, or stew tender in salt and water; 
drain and pour over the sauce for a " Wet Devil." 

Russian Kromeskys. — Mince fine cold game, fowl, or 
fish, adding ham or tongue if possible, also mushrooms 
and truffles; put all together in a stewpan with white 
sauce, yolk of an egg, and a little grated nutmeg, pepper, 
salt, and chopped onion ; stir a moment, then spread on a 
platter to cool ; then divide into small pieces, and roll into 
the form of a cork; fold each in a thin slice of boiled 
bacon, dip in butter, and fry quickly ; they should be 
done in a wire basket, then drained and served with fried~ 
parsley. 

Marrow Patties. — Take some beef marrow, melt it and 
strain it through a sieve; w r hen it is cold add to it two 
eggs thoroughly beaten, some bread crumbs finely crum- 
bled, and soaked in bouillon or stock, and lastly a very 
little grated parsley, salt to taste, and a soupgon of nut- 
meg ; if still too thin, add flour enough to thicken it; 
bake in open shells of puff paste. 

Stuffed JPeppers. — Six (or more) large green peppers, 
perfectly fresh ; cut off the tops and carefully scrape 
out the inside ; scrape off the inside of the tops as 
well, being, however, particularly careful to preserve 
the shape of the pepper. Prepare the filling as fol- 
lows: Chop very fine some cold chicken or veal, and put 
it into a saucepan with a small red-pepper pod, a little 
white pepper, salt, melted butter, and enough milk to 
moisten all ; stir continually until it is boiling hot; then 
put a teaspoonful of boiling melted butter and lemon juice 
into each pepper ; fill quickly with the hot mince ; put on 
the top of the pepper ; arrange in a hot dish, and serve. 
This is an easy, pretty, and appetizing entree. 



MISCELLANEOUS SAVORY DISHES. 547 

Spaniards a la Grecque ; or, Spanish Onions a la 
Grecque. — Peel off the outer skins ; cut off the pointed 
ends ; put them in a deep dish, and place a piece of butter, 
and a little salt and pepper on the place where the point 
has been cut off ; cover them with a plate or dish, and let 
them bake not less than three hours. They will throw 
out a delicious gravy. 

t JPepperpot (India receipt). — Two tablespoonfuls of 
cassareepe to a pint of good stock; add pepper, 6alt, 
onions, chopped line, ochra," and thyme ; the first meat 
put into the pot should be salt pork ; add goose, duck, 
chicken, game, or any kind of meat ; the first day stew 
for two hours, the next day until the meat is reduced to 
rags. 

Pie a la Sonne lienagere. — Slices of cold beef, mutton, 
chicken, and bacon ; lay them in a deep dish with sliced 
apples, and a very little chopped onion placed in alter- 
nate layers with the meat ; season with pepper, salt, and 
a tablespoonful of brown sugar; pour in some good stock; 
cover with short crust, and bake slowly. 

Potato Pie. — Skin some potatoes; cut them into slices, 
and season them ; also some mutton, beef, or veal ; put 
layers of potatoes and meat ; add enough stock to moisten 
all ; cover with short crust and bake. 

Podovies, or Beef Patties. — Shred underdone dressed 
beef with a little fat ; season with pepper, salt, and a little 
chopped onion; make a plain paste, roll it thin, cut into 
small squares, fill with the mince, fold over and bake to a 
nice brown. 

Giblet Pie. — After very nicely cleaning geese or duck 
giblets, stew them with a small quantity of water, chopped 
onion, celery, black pepper, and a bunch of sweet herbs 



548 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

until nearly done ; let them grow cold, and chop up with 
them some cold chicken and ham or veal; line a deep 
pie-dish with short crust, and till with alternate layers 
of the giblets and mince, sliced potatoes, and sliced ap- 
ples, pouring over all the liquors in which the giblets 
were stewed; cover with paste with an aperture in the 
top and bake; the moment the pie is withdrawn from the 
oven, pour into the aperture a teacupful of good cream ; 
serve hot. 

Calf s-head Pie. — One calf's head boiled an hour, and, 
when cold, sliced ; two pounds of beef, boiled down to a 
jelly; salt, pepper, mace, and cayenne to taste. 

Put some seasoning in the bottom of a dish, then a layer 
of calf's head, then the beef jelly, and more spice ; another 
layer of calf's head and jelly, and so on, the last layer be- 
ing the calf's tongue, sliced thin ; cover with good paste 
and bake. 

Havioli of Herbs. — Take a quantity of beet tops, wash 
them carefully, throwing aside the coarser leaves ; then boil 
them for from fifteen to twenty minutes; when cooked, 
throw instantly into very cold water, and after a moment 
or two press them dry with a clean cloth ; when dry, they 
should be chopped as finely as possible ; then put them 
in an earthen stewpan, adding four eggs well beaten, two 
ounces of grated Parmesan cheese, two and a half ounces 
of cream cheese, or curds, a little salt, and a soupgon of 
nutmeg; let all cook together for a few moments, stirring 
steadily all the time; then place on the moulding-board 
(which should be well floured), and, after flouring your 
hands, proceed to mould the ravioli into small oval balls, 
the size of a large Spanish olive; be particularly careful 
to flour them well ; when all are moulded, drop them, a 
few at a time, into boiling broth ; watch closely, and take 
them out with a perforated strainer the moment they 
assume a light-brown color ; drain for a few moments, 



MISCELLANEOUS SAVORY DISHES. 549 

and serve on a very hot dish, with tomato sauce poured 
over them. 

Risotto, with Oysters. — Four dozen small oysters, 
stewed ; one onion, chopped fine ; one half pound of 
rice, picked, washed, soaked for an hour, and drained 
dry. 

Fry the chopped onion to a light brown in butter, then 
remove the onion, and throw the rice into the frying-pan 
for a moment only, shaking it about well ; then put it 
with the onion into a saucepan, covering it with the liquor 
in which the oysters have been cooked ; allow this to 
come to a boil, then withdraw the rice to the side of the 
fire, cover it closely, and cook slowly ; when tender, drain, 
add the oysters, salt, a pinch of cayenne, and a tablespoon- 
ful of butter; toss about until the butter is thoroughly 
melted, then arrange in a pyramid on a very hot dish ; 
dust thickly with fried bread crumbs, and serve. 

Risotto a la Nea/politaine. — One onion, chopped fine, 
and fried lightly in butter; one large tomato, peeled, 
seeded, and sliced; one pound of good rice, picked, 
washed, and dried ; a few button mushrooms, chopped 
fine ; a few boiled shrimps chopped fine ; four or five 
handfuls of grated Parmesan cheese; a tiny pinch of 
cayenne. 

Put the onion into a saucepan with a little butter, add 
the rice, tomato, and some bouillon, thrice as much bouillon 
as rice ; cook for twenty minutes, then take from the fire 
and sift in the cheese ; add also the mushrooms, shrimps, 
and seasoning ; cover closely, cook for two minutes, then 
serve in a very hot dish. 

Risotto for Epicures, or Risotto con Rigaglia. — One 
teaspoonful of chopped onion ; four teaspoonfuls of melted 
beef marrow; five ounces of good, fresh butter; three to 
four ounces of grated Parmesan cheese ; one half pound 



550 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

of the beet rice, washed and dried ; three smoked sau- 
sages. 

Put the onion and beef marrow into a saucepan, and af- 
ter two or three minutes add the rice, covering it to three 
times its height in the saucepan with good bouillon ; add 
the sausages, and cook over rather a strong lire until the 
rice is almost dry ; then take it from the lire, remove the 
sausages, and stir in the butter and cheese, also two or 
three teaspoonf uls of strong stock ; cover closely and set 
in a warm place. Meanwhile cook some cocks' combs, 
chicken livers, and kidneys in a little salt and water until 
tender; these form the rigaglia ; peel two or three black 
truffles, and put the peel into a saucepan with half a glass- 
ful of Spanish wine and a quarter of a glassful of Marsala 
or Madeira; add a little parsley and a bunch of sweet 
herbs; cook this until reduced to one third of the original 
quantity ; then add two spoonfuls of tomato sauce and an 
equal quantity of strong stock; a little salt, and a pinch of 
cayenne pepper ; boil up once, strain, and return to the fire 
with the truffles cut into quarters ; cook the truffles in the 
sauce for five minutes; then drain the rigaglia, pour the 
sauce and truffles over them, cover closely, and set the ves- 
sel containing the rigaglia within another full of boiling 
water; when the rice is ready, arrange it in a circle on a 
very hot dish, dust thickly with grated Parmesan cheese, 
and pour the rigaglia and sauce in the centre ; slice the 
sausages and arrange round the rice. This is a delicious 
dish; but there are many inexpensive risottos which are 
nearly as good. Risottos, indeed, may be varied ad infi- 
nitum to suit the taste and purse of the mistress of the 
house. 

Scotch Woodcock. — Toast two slices of bread; butter 
them on each side; wash, scrape, chop very finely, and 
pound in a mortar four or five anchovies ; spread this paste 
on the pieces of toast and put them together, the paste be- 
tween them ; cut into small squares ; make a sauce with 



MISCELLANEOUS SAVORY DISHES. 5 51 

the yolks of two or three eggs, a gill of cream, and a 
piece of butter ; heat and pour over the toast ; serve very 
hot. 

Dutch Cream Toast. — Take the remainder of some 
cooked ham, i. e., the bone with the fragments adhering to 
it ; remove all fat, and dry it in the oven until it will grate 
like Parmesan cheese ; toast, butter, and cut some bread 
as directed above ; then spread it with the grated ham and 
fold it ; make a sauce with the yolks of two or three eggs, 
a gill and a half of cream, a piece of butter, and more 
grated ham ; heat, stir, and pour boiling hot over the 
toast, which must previously have been placed in a. hot 
dish. 

Fried Lentils or Beans. — One pint of plain boiled len- 
tils ; one ounce of chopped onion ; two ounces of drip- 
ping. 

Fry the onion brown in the dripping; add the lentils; 
season with salt, pepper, and the tiniest pinch of brown 
sugar ; mix and toss well, brown thoroughly, and serve hot. 

- Baked Beans or Lentils. — One pint of dried beans; 
a quarter of a pound of salt pork ; two quarts of cold 
water. 

Put the beans and pork into the cold water, bring them 
to a boil, and boil slowly for about twenty minutes ; then 
put the beans, with about a teacupful of the water they 
were boiled in, into an open jar ; season with salt and pep- 
per to taste, and a heaping teaspoonful of molasses; mix 
and toss well, lay the pork on top, and bake for two hours 
or longer. The liquor in w r hich the beans were boiled will, 
with a little soup meat, make an excellent broth. 

Boiled Lentils or Beans. — One pint of yellow lentils; 
three quarts of cold water; one ounce of dripping; one 
tablespoonful of salt; one saltspoonful of pepper. 



552 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Wash the lentils well in cold water, and put them over 
the fire with the other ingredients ; boil slowly until ten- 
der, that is, about three hours ; drain off the water ; add 
one ounce of batter, a tablespoonful of chopped parsley, 
a teaspoonful of sugar, and a little salt and pepper ; mix 
and toss well, and serve hot. 

Stewed Lentils. — One pint of plain boiled lentils ; enough 
broth or pot liquor to cover them ; one ounce of chopped 
onion ; two ounces of beef dripping ; a quarter of an 
ounce of chopped parsley. 

Stew all together gently for twenty minutes, and serve 
hot. 

Haslet Stew. — One fresh pig's or sheep's haslet ; one 
ounce of salt pork, sliced fine; one onion, chopped fine; 
one dessertspoonful of salt; half a saltspoonful of black 
pepper ; two bay leaves ; two sprigs of parsley ; one sprig 
of thyme; one ounce of flour; one gill of vinegar; half 
a pint of cold gravy ; six potatoes, peeled and cut in 
dice. 

Wash the liver, heart, and lights ; chop into inch pieces ; 
stew gently for two hours, and serve with roasted pow- 
dered parsley sprinkled on top. 

Scotch Crowdie. — One pound of oatmeal ; four quarts 
of pot liquor; one tablespoonful of salt; one saltspoonful 
of pepper ; one ounce of butter. 

Boil the oatmeal in the pot liquor one hour, stirring 
often ; season, stir, and serve. 

Oatmeal and Pease. — A quarter of a pound of fat bacon 
or pork cut into pieces half an inch square ; two sliced 
onions ; two teaspoonf uls of salt ; one teaspoonful of pep- 
per; one dessertspoonful of brown sugar; one pint of 
dried pease ; three quarts of cold water ; enough oatmeal 
to thicken. 



MISCELLANEOUS SAVORY DISHES. 553 

Fry the bacon and onions together for ten minutes with- 
out burning ; add the seasoning, the cold water, and the 
pease ; boil the whole gently until the pease become quite 
soft ; then stir in enough oatmeal to thicken, simmer twen- 
ty minutes longer, and serve hot. 

Cheese Pudding. — Two quarts of water, seasoned with 
two tablespoonfuls of salt; one pound of yellow Indian 
meal, sifted ; a quarter of a pound of grated cheese. 

Stir the Indian meal into the boiling water ; when well 
mixed stir in the cheese ; boil twenty minutes, stirring 
often ; put into a greased baking-pan, sprinkle a quarter 
of a pound of grated cheese over the top, and brown in a 
quick oven. 

Stewed Tripe. — One pound of tripe cut into small pieces ; 
half a quart of potatoes ; half a quart of onions ; a quarter 
of a pound of fine flour. 

Put the tripe, potatoes, and onions in layers in a pot; 
season with one tablespoonful of salt and a level tea- 
spoonful of pepper; mix the flour with a pint of water, 
and pour over the stew; add gradually two pints of wa- 
ter, put the pot over the fire, and boil gently one hour and 
a half. 

Pease Pudding. — Soak one pint of dried pease in cold 
water overnight, tie loosely in a clean cloth, and boil two 
hours in pot liquor or water, putting them into it cold and 
bringing them gradually to a boil ; drain them, and press 
through a sieve with a wooden spoon ; season with a level 
tablespoonful of salt, a pinch of pepper, one ounce of but- 
ter, and one egg ; mix, tie in a clean cloth, and boil half 
an hour longer ; serve hot. 

Ignachi a la Romana. — Make a plain boiled pudding of 
Hecker's farina, with milk and eggs in the usual propor- 
tions, but without sugar or flavoring ; while still soft, and 






554 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

before it forms, pour it into a large shallow dish ; when 
cold cut into small lozenges, and pack in layers in a but- 
tered pudding-dish, sprinkling each layer thickly with 
Parmesan cheese, and dotting, also, with butter ; sift 
grated cheese over the top, and bake brown in a quick 
oven. 



MISCELLANEOUS DESSERTS. 

Souffle of Chestnuts. — Roast three dozen large Spanish 
chestnuts ; peel them carefully, and pound in a mortar ; 
pass the puree thus obtained through a sieve; then return 
to the mortar with one half its weight of sugar, and, with 
the white of an egg, work to a smooth paste, and then 
mould into little balls the size of a large Spanish chestnut; 
roll each ball in beaten white of egg ; drain for a few 
minutes on a sieve; then roll in crystallized sugar; let 
them stand ten minutes; then roll again in white of egg 
and crystallized sugar; arrange on buttered paper, at some 
distance from each other ; cook in a slow oven twenty-five 
minutes; when cold, arrange in a pyramid on a folded 
napkin. 

Hickory -Nut Balls. — Crack a sufficient quantity of 
good hickory nuts ; pick out the meat, and dry in the 
oven ; then pound in a mortar, and proceed as above. You 
may substitute brown sugar for the white in preparing the 
hickory-nut balls, if you choose. 

Aniseed Balls. — The yolks of five eggs; sifted sugar 
and sifted flour, enough to work to a paste ; a pinch of 
aniseed. 

Beat first the sugar and then the flour to a paste ; add 
the flavoring, and drop by spoonfuls on buttered paper ; 
then put into a buttered mould and bake. 

Baited Apples, No. 1.— Wash, and wipe dry, five firm 
apples, and cut out the blossom ends ; pack them in a large 



556 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

pud ding- dish ; pour a cupful of water over them, cover 
the dish closely, set in a moderate oven, and steam until 
they are tender, and crack open ; then put into a cold dish, 
and pour over them the juice left in the baking-dish ; serve 
cold, with powdered sugar and cream. 

Baked Apples, No. 2. — Pare very carefully and thinly, 
core, and fill the hollow of the core with loaf sugar; dust 
the apples with powdered sugar and cinnamon, and bake. 

Siberian Crab Cheese. — Wipe the fruit with a clean, dry 
cloth, and cut out all damaged parts with a silver knife ; 
put them in a covered jar in a slow oven until tender; then 
squeeze through coarse canvas; weigh the pulp, and allow 
three quarters of a pound of lump sugar to every pound 
of pulp ; reboil for half an hour, skimming well ; put into 
moulds, and, when cold, cover with brandied paper. 

Apple Cake. — Half a pound of apples, peeled, cut, and 
cored; one pound of loaf sugar; juice of three lemons, 
and half the rinds grated. 

Simmer in a stewpan four hours, until quite stiff ; put in 
mould, and eat cold. A larger quantity can be made, and 
packed in jars, if desired ; cover with brandied tissue 
paper, and again with white paper, and keep in a cool 
place ; it will be hard, like the crab cheese in consistency, 
and is very good. 

Coddled Apples. — Take large tart apples, wash, rub dry, 
peel thinly and delicately, and core them ; throw the peel 
into boiling water; put into a porcelain-lined stewpan the 
weight of the apples in the best loaf sugar, and then strain 
the water in which the peel has been thrown, and pour 
over the loaf sugar enough of this water to barely float 
the apples ; put the stewpan on the fire, and boil the sugar 
down to a clear syrup ; then put in the apples ; the stew- 
pan should be sufficiently large to prevent the apples from 






MISCELLANEOUS DESSERTS. 557 

touching each other ; put in with the apples the rind of a 
large lemon prepared in the following manner: Peel the 
lemon thinly and delicately, taking care to preserve the 
peel unbroken ; then, with a pair of sharp scissors, cut the 
peel into long, very thin strings, taking care, as before, to 
keep the length unbroken ; put this into the saucepan 
simultaneously with the apples, and cook until tender; eat 
cold. This is the best way of cooking apples. 

Condi of Apples, Pears, Apricots, etc. — Boil some rice 
in milk ; add, when cooked, a little fresh butter, vanilla, 
or other flavoring, and powdered sugar to taste; also, yolk 
of egg in sufficient quantity to color the rice yellow ; 
then remove from the fire, arrange in a circle on a hot 
dish, put a pyramid of apples, pears, or other stewed fruit 
in the middle, cover the ring of rice with apricot marma- 
lade, and serve. 

Apples with Butter {Cuisiniere Boargeoise). — Take 
large, firm, tart apples, peel and core them carefully, cut 
them in half; butter a large, wide pie-dish, and arrange in 
it small squares or rounds of white bread (stale) about half 
an inch thick ; each round or square should be exactly the 
size of one of the apple halves; when the mosaic of bread 
is neatly fitted to the dish, arrange the halved apples on 
the bread; fill the hollow of each apple with powdered 
sugar, and place on the sugar a small piece of very fresh 
butter; cook in a very slow oven; watch the apples care- 
fully, and as fast as the sugar and butter are absorbed re- 
new them until the apples are tender, and well cooked ; 
serve hot in the same dish. 

Apples with Bice {Cuisiniere Bourgeoise). — Butter a 
wide pie-dish, and place on it a layer, about an inch thick, 
of cold, boiled rice, in which you have beaten up two table- 
spoonfuls of apple jelly ; arrange on this bed of rice a close 
layer of peeled, cored, halved, and half-stewed apples ; put 



558 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

into a slow oven, and, when the apples are quite cooked, 
fill the hollow of each with apricot or other marmalade ; 
serve hot. 

Apples with Meringue. — Make a pyramid of coddled 
apples in the middle of a dish, cover it with a meringue 
made by beating up, very stiff, the whites of two eggs with 
two spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and a little zest of 
lemon ; cover the pyramid carefully and completely with 
meringue / dust the meringue with powdered crystallized 
sugar ; put into a gentle oven to brown, and serve as soon 
as lightly browned. 

Apples Flambautes (Ouisimere Normande). — Peel and 
core some firm, small apples, and stew with loaf sugar, a 
little lemon peel, and water enough to keep them from 
burning ; when tender, but still firm, take them carefully 
out of the saucepan, and arrange thera in a pyramid on 
a large pie-dish ; boil down the syrup in the saucepan un- 
til it is very thick ; pour it over the apples ; dust the whole 
pyramid thickly witli powdered sugar, and pour rum over 
all; just before setting the dish on the table set fire to the 
rum ; serve blazing. This is an old Norman dish, and is 
very good. 

Compote of Apples or Pears, with Butter. — Peel, core, 
and halve the fruit, and put into a saucepan with enough 
water to keep it from burning ; loaf sugar to taste ; a stick 
of cinnamon, and a piece of fresh butter the size of a 
large egg ; cook on a slow fire until tender. 

Croutes of Peaches. — Butter a large, shallow pie-dish, 
and cover it completely with slices of stale white bread 
fitted closely together, place upon these large ripe peaches 
cut in half, and stoned ; fill the hollow left by each stone 
with powdered sugar, and a piece of very fresh butter ; 
then cook in a very slow oven, watching carefully, and 



MISCELLANEOUS DESSERTS. 559 

renewing the sugar as it is absorbed ; serve hot in the dish 
in which the peaches have been cooked. 

Croutes of Plums. — Proceed precisely as above. 

Croutes of Apricots. — Proceed as above. 

Macedoine of Fruit. — Have ready two dome-shaped 
fluted moulds ; one must be smaller than the other, so as 
to leave a vacancy of three inches between the inner and 
outer mould ; the inner mould must also be furnished with 
clamps at the edges, which will hold it firmly in position ; 
place the larger mould on at least eighteen pounds of 
cracked ice ; then carefully hook the other mould in place 
and pour into the larger mould enough clear, transparent 
jelly to fill the vacancy between the two moulds ; the jelly, 
of course, may be of any color you prefer ; as soon as it is 
quite hard and firm fill the inner mould three quarters full 
of warm water ; this will enable you to detach it instantly 
and easily from the surrounding jelly ; have ready, well- 
picked and cleaned, from twenty to twenty-four fine 
strawberries, as many more very large strawberries, an 
equal quantity of white raspberries, and of white and red 
currants (strung) ; place in the dome of the jelly a layer 
of white currants ; surround and place on these giant 
strawberries ; then a layer of white raspberries ; then pour 
on some melted jelly ; as soon as the jelly hardens proceed 
to put in layers of fruit as before, alternating the colors 
and quality of the fruit ; finish with a wreath of the giant 
raspberries, surrounding a mosaic of red and white straw- 
berries ; pour in as much clear jelly as the mould will hold; 
put on a tightly fitting cover ; pile up the ice, and leave 
the mould ; when the jelly is hard and firm plunge the 
form for a moment in boiling water, and turn out the 
macedoine on a cold plate ; it is the prettiest possible des- 
sert, and easily made, although the directions are neces- 
sarily prolix; it may be varied at discretion, and may be 
made in winter with preserved fruits. 



560 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Rhode Island Apple Slump. — Twelve large sour apples, 
pared, cored, and quartered ; three cupfnls of molasses; a 
little grated nutmeg and cinnamon. 

Line the sides of a baking-kettle with crust made from 
raised dough, or plain crust made light with soda or cream 
of tartar; allow enough crust to fold over the top; put 
the apples in ; sprinkle them with the spice ; then pour in 
the molasses, fold the crust from the sides over the top, 
and cook for half an hour over a moderate fire. 

Apple Pudding, known as Friar's Omelet. — Grated 
rind of one large lemon and juice of two added to the 
cooked apples; twelve large apples, stewed to a pulp; a 
quarter of a pound of butter, stirred in while the apples 
are hot ; sugar enough to make it quite sweet, stirred in 
while the apples are hot ; four eggs well beaten, stirred in 
when the apples are cold ; a little grated nutmeg, stirred 
in when the apples are cold. - 

Butter well the bottom and sides of a large baking-dish, 
and line very thickly with bread crumbs; pour in the ap- 
ple mixture, spread bread crumbs thickly on top, and stick 
over several bits of butter ; bake in a moderate oven, and 
serve cold. 

Apple Stephen. — One pound of suet, chopped fine ; two 
pounds of sifted flour ; eight large tart apples, cored and 
sliced ; one pound of brown sugar ; a quarter of a pound 
of dried currants, picked, washed, and dried ; one ounce of 
candied citron, snipped fine ; the rind of a lemon, grated ; 
the juice of the lemon, also ; a little ground cinnamon, and 
a few whole cloves. 

Mix the suet and the flour with cold water into a mel- 
low paste; roll it well, and lay it in a deep earthenware 
baking-pan, which must first be well greased with suet ; 
then mix all the other ingredients, except the apples, to- 
gether, and put layers of apples alternately with the other 
ingredients until the dish is full; close the paste over the 



MISCELLANEOUS DESSERTS. 561 

top as you do for apple dumpling, sprinkling brown sugar 
over the paste ; bake it in a moderate oven for four or 
five hours, basting it every few minutes with the syrup 
which appears round the edges; when done turn it out on 
a flat, hot dish, and serve hot. 

Fried Apples. — Peel and core some large, fine apples ; 
cut in thick slices and soak for two or three hours in rum, 
sweet cider, or red wine, adding powdered cinnamon, loaf 
sugar, and spices to taste ; then drain, roll in beaten egg 
and bread crumbs, fry quickly in butter, drain, dust with 
powdered sugar, and serve. 

Fried Peaches. — Peel, stone, and quarter; soak for two 
hours in wine (white) and sugar, and proceed as above. 

Fried Figs. — Peel the figs, which should be perfectly 
fresh and not too ripe ; soak for two or three hours in ro- 
solio ; drain, cut in two, dust lightly with fine flour, and 
fry quickly in butter ; dust thickly with powdered sugar, 
and serve. 

Fried Apricots. — Take large apricots, not too ripe ; peel, 
stone, and quarter; roll them in powdered sugar and ar- 
range in a deep dish, dusting again with powdered sugar; 
they should remain for some hours; then roll in beaten 
egg, dust with flour, and fry quickly in butter; dust again 
with powdered sugar, and serve. 

Damson Cheese. — Gather the fruit when full ripe, and 
to every peck of damsons allow four pounds of lump sug- 
ar ; stone the fruit and set it in an oven, and let it remain 
until soft ; when cold rub it through a colander or coarse 
hair sieve ; then put it into a preserving-pan, and boil it 
quickly for half an hour; after which add the blanched 
kernels and the sugar, and boil together half an hour long- 
er, stirring steadily all the time ; wet the moulds with 

24* 



562 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

brandy or vinegar; put the cheese, when cold, into the 
moulds ; cover with paper dipped in vinegar, and keep in 
a dry place ; or else cover with paper dipped in white of 
egg- 
Apricot Cheese. — Pare and stone the apricots, and allow 
a pound of loaf sugar to every pound of apricots ; wet the 
sugar a very little, and boil fruit and sugar quickly ; blanch 
the kernels and put into the cheese; thirty minutes will 
boil it ; when cold put into pots or moulds as above. 

Tipsy Charlotte. — Proceed as for Charlotte a V Orange, 
substituting for the orange juice two spoonfuls of orange 
or other wine; cut the top off a large, stale sponge cake ; 
dig out the inside, leaving bottom and sides an inch thick ; 
sprinkle freely with sherry or Marsala wine; pour in the 
cream, replace the top (drenching it also with wine), and 
serve. 

Apple Charlotte. — Four large tart apples, peeled, cored, 
boiled, and beaten to'a pulp; one egg, well beaten; grated 
peel of a lemon and the juice ; sugar to taste. 

Butter a mould of any shape, line it carefully and thick- 
ly with rolled and grated bread crumbs, pour in the apple, 
cover with a layer of bread crumbs half an inch thick, and 
bake to a light brown. 

Or, you may line the mould with thin slices of stale 
white bread, buttered, and sprinkled with sugar. 

Peach Charlotte. — Proceed as above, substituting stewed 
dried peaches for the apple, and orange juice and grated 
orange peel for the lemon. 

Fresh Peach Charlotte.- — Line a brick-shaped mould 
with slices of sponge cake a la Virginie, and fill with cut- 
up and sugared peaches and the cream russe (unflavored). 
The russe and peaches should be beaten together long 



MISCELLANEOUS DESSERTS. 563 

and well before being put into the mould ; then set in a 
cold place, and turn out just before serving. 

Charlotte- Busse a V Orange. — One pint of good cream ; 
the whites of three eggs, beaten to the utmost ; a quarter 
of a box of gelatine ; one teaspoonful of orange brandy ; 
two tablespoonfuls of orange juice ; sugar to taste. 

Dissolve the gelatine in as little water as possible ; beat 
the cream to a stiff froth and sweeten it ; then beat in 
the stiff egg froth ; then beat in, drop by drop, the dis- 
solved gelatine; then add the brandy and orange juice ; 
line a glass dish with macaroons steeped in wine, pour in 
the Charlotte-Russe, and set in a cool place to congeal. 

Florida Charlotte -Biisse. — One quart of sweet, rich 
cream ; one pint of sweet milk, scalded ; one ounce of 
American gelatine, dissolved in tepid water ; vanilla fla- 
voring to taste ; sugar to taste. 

Beat the cream to a froth, and flavor it with vanilla; 
stir the gelatine into the milk, but be careful not to leave 
it too long on the Are lest the milk should curdle; strain 
it, add a pound of powdered sugar, then, when cool, out 
not stiff, stir in the whipped cream ; have ready fluted 
moulds, buttered, and lined with lady-fingers ; pour in the 
mixture, and set away to cool ; when cold turn out, and 
serve. 

Charlotte- Busse, Plain. — One quart of cream, whipped 
to a froth, and drained through a sieve; one pint of un- 
clarified gelatine, melted and strained ; flavoring to taste ; 
sugar to taste. 

Beat the melted gelatine into the whipped cream, stir- 
ring and beating continually until all is smooth ; have 
ready moulds prepared as above ; pour in the cream, and, 
when cold, proceed as above. 

Gooseberry Cups (Meg Dodd). — Pick, wash, and wipe 



564 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

dry fine large gooseberries, and simmer over a slow fire 
until tender enough to pulp through a sieve, then add loaf 
sugar to taste (bearing in mind that they should be very 
sweet); replace on the fire, and cook slowly until quite 
thick ; add half a cupful of melted gelatine, strain, pour 
into custard cups, and set away to cool. 

Gooseberry Cake (Meg Dodd). — Three pounds of finest 
white flour, dried and sifted ; a pound and a half of fresh 
butter ; a pound and a half of powdered sugar ; six eggs, 
yolks only; six teaspoonfuls of white wine; three tea- 
spoonfuls of liqueur d? anisette; two grated nutmegs;' 
rose water to taste ; one pound of ripe gooseberries, 
picked, washed, and dredged. 

Cream the butter and sugar, then add the well-beaten 
yolks, then the wine, liqueur, and spice ; then the flour, then 
the rose water, and, lastly, the gooseberries. 

Gooseberry Cheese. — One quart of gooseberries ; one 
pound of powdered sugar; one pound of fresh butter; 
four eggs, yolks only, well beaten ; macaroons, dried and 
rolled to powder. 

Cream the butter and sugar, add the well-beaten yolks, 
then the rolled macaroons in sufficient quantity to bind 
all together ; then the gooseberries, which should be pre- 
viously prepared by having boiling water thrown upon 
them, and then mashed and rubbed through a sieve ; mix 
and beat all well together. 

Currant Grant. — Two teacupfuls of rice, washed and 
picked ; one stick of cinnamon ; sugar to taste; half a pint 
of fresh currant juice. 

Put the rice and cinnamon into a porcelain-lined kettle, 
with enough water to cover it ; let it simmer on the back 
of the stove until the rice bursts ; sweeten to taste with 
powdered sugar; add the currant juice, let it come almost 
to a boil, then take from the fire and pour into porcelain 
moulds wet with cold water; serve cold with cream. 



MISCELLANEOUS DESSERTS. 565 

Cocoanut Marmalade. — One pound of grated cocoanut ; 
one pound of powdered white sugar; half a pint of cold 
water ; two eggs. 

Make a syrup of the sugar, clarify it with whites of the 
eggs until clear, then add the cocoanut, which must cook 
until transparent ; remove from the fire, and when it ceases 
to boil throw in the yolks of two eggs ; replace on the 
fire, and heat only until like thick custard ; when cooling, 
add a little rose or peach water; grate nutmeg on the top, 
and serve like custard, in small cups. 

Almond Marmalade. — One pound of almonds, blanched 
and powdered to paste; one quart of water; one pound 
of loaf sugar; yolks of twenty eggs, beaten light. 

Put the pounded almonds and water on the fire with a 
pound of loaf sugar, and, when the sugar is dissolved, stir 
in the yolks of twenty eggs, beaten light ; serve as above. 

Apple Citron. — Coddle some very green apples, rub 
them through a sieve, and to every pint of pulp add three 
quarters of a pound of fine sugar ; squeeze the juice from 
two lemons, and boil the peel well ; when it is soft, take 
away the white inner lining of the skin, cut the yellow 
rind into little slips ; add them and the juice to the apple, 
and boil over a slow fire for an hour, stirring often to pre- 
vent burning. 

Rice Meringue.— One quart of milk ; half a cupful of 
rice; sugar to taste; small piece of fresh butter; whites 
of eight eggs. 

Put the rice into the milk, and let it simmer for three 
hours, until quite smooth; then remove from the fire, 
sweeten to taste, and add a small piece of fresh butter ; 
stir until well mixed ; then beat the whites of four eggs, 
and beat into the rice, adding also a little grated nutmeg, 
and the finely grated rind of one lemon ; pour into a but- 
tered pudding-dish, and drop lightly on it the whites of 



566 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

the remaining four eggs, which should previously have 
been beaten to the stiffest possible froth with five table- 
spoonfuls of sugar and the juice of a lemon ; bake to a 
light brown in a slow oven ; eat cold. 

Philadelphia Meringue. — The yolks of five eggs well 
beaten ; a quarter of a pound of sifted sugar ; flavoring to 
taste; one pint of rich cream. 

Beat the yolks of the eggs very light with the sugar ; 
flavor to taste; heat a pint of cream d oain-marie; when 
it begins to boil take it from the fire and stir in the eggs 
and sugar; return to the fire, and stir until very thick; 
then pour into a dish and let it cool ; then beat the whites 
of five eggs with some powdered sugar to the stiffest pos- 
sible froth; put this on the cream, and set it in the oven 
for a few minutes to dry. 

Omelette au Sucre, or Sweet Omelet (Cuisiniere JBour- 
geoise). — Six eggs beaten to the utmost, whites and yolks 
separately; when both whites and yolks are well beaten, 
beat into the yolks powdered sugar and zest "of lemon to 
taste; then add the beaten whites, beat all together hard 
and long, adding a little sweet milk and a pinch of salt ; 
put your omelet into the pan, and, when it browns, dish, 
fold" dust with powdered sugar, glaze with a salamander 
(red-hot iron) and serve. 

Omelette au Phum (Cuisiniere Bourgeois^). — Proceed 
precisely as above, but just before putting on the table 
pour some good old rum over the omelet, and set it on 
fire ; serve blazing. 

Omelette aux Pommes (Old Virginie's). — Pare, peel, 
quarter, and half stew some nice tart apples, then prepare 
an omelet as above, and, just before putting it in the ome- 
let pan, stir the apple quarters well through it ; then fry, 
fold, and dust with sugar as above. 



MISCELLANEOUS DESSERTS. 567 

Omelette aux Confitures, or with Preserve. — Prepare as 
for sweet omelet, substituting cream for the milk ; when 
you dish, put two or three spoonfuls of any preserve you 
prefer on the omelet ; then fold, and dust with powdered 
sugar. 

Omelette Souffle, No. 1 Ouisinilre Parisienne). — Six 
eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately to the utmost; 
four ounces of powdered sugar ; zest of lemon to taste. 

When the eggs are beaten, beat the sugar into the yolks ; 
then add the zest of lemon, then beat in the whites very 
lightly; pour at once into a deep earthen dish, well but- 
tered ; dust lightly with powdered sugar, and bake in a 
quick oven ; seven or eight minutes should suffice ; serve 
in the same dish. 

Omelette Souffle, No. 2. — The yolks and whites of six 
eggs, beaten separately to the utmost; six tablespoonfuls 
of finely powdered sugar ; a little peel, grated from the 
surface of a fresh lemon ; a quarter of a pound of fresh 
butter. 

Beat the yolks and whites separately until they are a 
very stiff froth ; then beat them together, then beat in the 
sugar and lemon ; melt the butter in a pan, pour in the 
beaten eggs, and stir them until they have absorbed all 
the butter ; then pour into a buttered dish and bake ; serve 
as soon as browned. Omelette souffle should be taken di- 
rectly from the oven to the table in the dish in which it- 
was baked. 

Bice Panada. — Half a pound of rice ; a quarter of a 
pound of suet; one tablespoonful of salt; one table- 
spponful of sugar; half a pound of the finest white 
flour, sifted; one quart of water; one gill of molas- 
ses. 

Boil the rice, suet, and sugar fast in boiling water for 
fifteen minutes ; then mix well together the flour, water, 



568 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

and molasses ; stir into the boiling rice, and cook five min- 
utes. 

Stuffed Peaches. — Take large ripe peaches, cut them in 
half, take out the stones, crack them, and pound the ker- 
nels in a mortar, and mix smoothly with a little bread 
crumb soaked in rich cream, a pinch of powdered cinna- 
mon, and sugar to taste ; place all the peaches on a large, 
shallow, earthenware dish, and till the cavity left by the 
stone with the above-named mixture, heaping it well up ; 
in the small spaces between the peaches place bits of fresh 
butter, pouring in, also, a little white wine ; shake finely 
sifted powdered sugar thickly and evenly over all ; finally 
cover with a light, even layer of finely grated and browned 
bread crumbs ; then place the dish in the oven, and let 
it remain until the peaches begin to assume a light-red 
color. 

Stuffed Apricots. — Choose large, fine, ripe apricots, and 
treat in precisely the same way, adding a few bitter al- 
monds to the stuffing: 

Stuffed Apples. — Peel and core large tart apples, and 
stuff them with a mixture of bread crumb soaked in cream, 
blanched and pounded apple seeds, a pinch of cinnamon, 
and the same of nutmeg and a larger quantity of sugar 
than you would use for peaches or apricots; stick some 
cloves in the apples, and arrange the apples in a deep 
earthenware dish, placing lumps of the best quality of loaf 
sugar between the different apples, and pouring a very 
little cold water into the bottom of the dish ; bake in a 
slow oven. These apples should be eaten cold, with a lit- 
tle cream flavored with lemon juice; they will be found 
delicious. 

Stuffed Pears — Are treated in the same way, using less 
sugar, and putting a tiny pinch of cochineal in the baking- 



MISCELLANEOUS DESSERTS. 569 

dish in order to give the pears a fine red color. They 
are very good. 

Fried Plums. — Take large, firm plums, not too ripe ; 
wipe and set in a slow oven for half an hour; then cut 
in half, stone, peel, and soak in liqueur, rum, or brandy 
for two or three hours; then drain, roll in beaten egg, 
dust with flour, and fry quickly ; they should be dusted 
thickly with powdered sugar before serving. 

Baked Pears. — Proceed as for "Baked Apples, No. 1." 
Or, if the pears are large, cut in half, put in a deep 
dish with a very little water, and sprinkle them with sug- 
ar and a pinch of ginger, cinnamon, or cloves; cover close- 
ly, and bake until tender. 

Baked Quinces. — Pare, quarter, and seed the quinces ; 
then stew them in clear water until a straw will pierce 
them ; put into a baking-dish with half a cupful of loaf 
sugar to every eight quinces ; pour over them the liquor 
in which they were boiled, cover closely, and bake in the 
oven one hour ; then take out the quinces and put them 
into a covered dish ; return the syrup to the saucepan and 
boil twenty minutes ; then pour over the quinces, and set 
them away to cool. 

Stewed Apples. — Select fine juicy apples, peel, and core; 
put into a saucepan with just enough water to cover them, 
cover the saucepan closely, and stew the apples until they 
are tender and clear ; then take them out, put them into 
a deep dish, and cover them ; add to the juice in the 
saucepan a cupful of loaf sugar for every twelve apples, 
and boil it half an hour, adding to the syrup a pinch of 
mace and a dozen whole cloves just ten minutes before 
taking it from the fire; pour scalding hot over the ap- 
ples, and set them in a cold place; eat ice cold with 
cream. 



570 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Stewed Pears. — One quart of small ripe pears, washed 
and wiped dry, but not pared or cored ; half a cupful of 
loaf sugar. 

Put the pears into a saucepan with just enough water 
to cover them, and stew until tender ; then add the sugar 
and stew all together ten minutes; take out the pears, lay 
in a covered bowl to keep warm, add to the syrup a little 
ginger and a clove or two, boil fifteen minutes longer, and 
pour over the fruit hot. 

Italian Stewed Pears. — One quart of small pears, peeled, 
but not cored ; half a cupful of loaf sugar. 

Proceed as above ; but as soon as the sugar is dissolved 
add enough cochineal to color the pears and syrup a bright 
red ; and, when the pears are dished, stew in the syrup a 
little candied orange and lemon peel. 

Pears Stewed Brown. — One quart of hard, tough pears, 
peeled and with the blossom ends cut out ; one cupful of 
molasses, best quality ; a pinch of ginger. 

Stew as above until very tender; then dish, cover, and 
add to the liquor in the saucepan an equal quantity of 
molasses and a little ginger ; boil half an hour, skim, 
and return the pears to the saucepan ; stew all together 
twenty minutes. This is really the best way of stewing 
pears. 

Souffle au Piz. — The yolks of four eggs ; six teaspoon- 
f uls of boiled rice ; one piece of very fresh butter the size 
of an egg; lightly grated rind of a fresh lemon; half a 
quart of milk. 

Stir all well together, put on the fire, and stir with a 
wooden spoon until the mixture has boiled up once or 
twice ; then remove from the fire, and when cool beat in 
the yolks of four eggs (already well beaten) and the whites 
of six, previously beaten to a stiff froth ; add powdered 
sugar and lemon juice to taste ; beat smoothly together, 



MISCELLANEOUS DESSERTS. 571 

and, if too stiff, add beaten white of egg until it is of the 
proper consistency ; pour into a buttered mould, dust with 
powdered sugar, and bake in a quick oven ; twenty min- 
utes should suffice; serve at once in the dish in which it 
was baked. 

Tot Fait. — Mix the yolks of eggs with the finest white 
flour (sifted) until you have a stiff paste ; then reduce this 
paste to a light batter by adding a little fresh milk, and 
white of egg, well beaten ; add sugar to taste, and flavor 
with vanilla, zest of lemon, or orange-flower water ; when 
the tot fait is soft, smooth, and light as a feather, pour on 
a buttered pie-dish, and bake instantly in a quick oven ; 
serve as soon as risen and browned. 

Tot Fait with Fruit. — Proceed as above; but before 
sending the tot fait to table, cover with a layer of del- 
icate preserve. This must be done quickly, lest the 
tot fait should fall. Fresh fruit, sugared, may also be 
used. 

Souffle au Cafe. — The yolks of four eggs, well beaten ; 
six teaspoonfuls of potato flour; a piece of very fresh 
butter, the size of an egg ; zest of a lemon ; half a quart 
of milk, with coffee to taste. 

Mix the above ingredients smoothly together ; then put 
on the fire, and stir with a wooden spoon until the mixt- 
ure boils up twice ; remove from the fire, and, when cool, 
add the beaten yolks of four eggs, and the stiffly beaten 
whites of six, with sugar to taste ; beat well together and 
pour into a buttered mould, cooking as for souffle au riz. 
This receiptmay be varied at pleasure — for chocolate souffle 
or fruit. If properly made it is very good. 

Light Snow Dessert Busks, or Dampf-Nudeln. — One 
quart of the finest white flour, sifted ; enough yeast to 
make it rise ; two tablespoonf uls of white sugar; pow- 



572 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

dered ; one tenth of a quart of rich cream ; a piece of 
butter the size of a turkey's egg ; the yolks of three eggs, 
well beaten ; a pinch of salt. 

Make into a very soft dough, cover, and let it rise ; when 
it has risen so that it is very light, dip out of the dough 
with a spoon pieces as large as an egg ; form them into 
balls with floured hands ; then put them on a baking-tin, 
strewn with flour, and let them rise still more; meanwhile 
put into a saucepan just enough milk to cover the bottom, 
a piece of butter the size of an egg, and a tablespoonful of 
powdered sugar; let it come to a boil, and put the nudeln 
in just half an hour before you eat them; do not put 
them too close together ; cover the saucepan closely, and 
put a cloth dipped in hot water round the lid, so that no 
steam can escape ; let the nudeln boil slowly until you 
hear them crackle, which happens when the milk has 
evaporated, and the nudeln begin to brown; then place 
the saucepan on one side of^ the stove, uncover it, and 
when the nudeln are nicely browned on the bottom take 
them out and place them on a round hot dish. Make a 
sauce of boiling cream or milk ; beat up in it the yolk 
of an egg, flavor with vanilla, and sweeten to taste ; serve 
in a sauce-boat. 

RIPE FRUIT FOR DESSERT. 

General Pules. — Berries ought always to be picked over 
very carefully, but should never be washed or sugared be- 
fore being served ; arrange on a bed of fresh leaves, and 
set in a cool place until wanted ; serve powdered sugar 
and cream with berries of all kinds. 

Peaches, Plums, Apricots, etc. — Pick over carefully, and 
dust, if necessary ; do not wipe, lest you remove the bloom, 
which is the chief beauty of all stone fruit ; arrange in 
pyramids interspersed with fresh leaves. 

Or, cover the fruit-dish with a bed of fresh leaves, and 
arrange the fruit in Parisian fashion, i. e., in a four-sided 



MISCELLANEOUS DESSERTS. 573 

pyramid, the stem ends turned inward. Cherries are ex- 
tremely pretty arranged in this way. 

Apples, Pears, etc. — Wash, wipe dry, and rub to a bright 
polish with a cloth ; arrange in pyramids interspersed with 
green leaves. 

Orange Salad. — Pare and slice in rounds fine ripe 
oranges ; sprinkle with powdered sugar ; then pile in a 
glass dish, and pour a couple of glassfuls of wine, or, 
better still, a tumblerful of orange and lemon juice, half 
and half, over all ; sprinkle again with sugar, and serve at 
once. 

Currants and Raspberries. — String the currants, and 
pick both raspberries and currants over carefully ; mix in 
even quantities ; put into a glass dish, and eat with pow- 
dered sugar. 

Ambrosia, ~No. 1. — Eight fine ripe oranges, peeled and 
sliced ; half of a grated cocoanut ; 'half a cupful of pow- 
dered sugar. 

Arrange the orange in a glass dish, sprinkle the cocoa- 
nut thickly over it, sprinkle with sugar, and repeat this 
process until the dish is full. 

Ambrosia, No, 2. — Peel and "fig" the oranges; care- 
fully pick out all the pulp, rejecting the thin skin and 
seeds ; then proceed as above. 

Tutti-Frutti Fruit Salad. — Prepare some oranges as 
above, and arrange in a glass dish with an equal quantity 
of sliced bananas, and "pulled" (not sliced) pineapple, 
strawberries and raspberries if you have them, etc. ; sugar 
to taste; add wine or orange juice, and set on the ice for 
an hour before serving. 



574 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Crystallized Currants. — Pick over carefully equal quan- 
tities of white and red currants ; dip each bunch carefully 
in beaten white of egg and a little cold water (mixed) ; 
then roll in powdered crystallized sugar ; do this once or 
twice until the bunches are well frosted ; lay on white pa- 
per to dry ; then arrange in a dish for dessert. 



HOME-MADE CANDY. 

Cocoanut Candy. — Grate a cocoanut, and boil it with 
one ponnd of white sugar ; wet with the milk of the nut ; 
let it boil slowly until thick, then pour it out on buttered 
plates. 

Peanut Candy. — Two quarts of peanuts, roasted in their 
shells, and then shelled and hulled ; two pounds of light- 
brown sugar. 

Boil the sugar in a preserving-kettle with enough water 
to wet it thoroughly, and form a syrup ; when the sugar 
begins to boil, throw in the white of an egg to clear it ; 
strain it, and try, by dropping a little of the sugar into 
cold water, if it is done enough ; if it hardens and be- 
comes brittle it is sufficiently boiled, and must be taken 
from the fire; the blanched nuts must then be stirred 
thoroughly through the sugar ; then wet with a brush a 
marble slab, free from all grease, and drop the hot mixt- 
ure upon it; flatten into small oblong blocks; when cold 
take them oft* the board with a knife. 

Almond Candy. — Two quarts of sweet almonds; two 
pounds of light-brown sugar. 

Blanch the almonds and roast them in the oven ; then 
proceed precisely as for peanut candy. 

Walnut or Hickory-nut Candy. — Blanch some walnuts 
or hickory-nuts in boiling water ; when blanched set them 
aside ; then boil together one cupful of water, three cup- 
fuls of brown sugar, and four ounces of butter ; let it boil 



5 76 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

without stirring until it candies ; then proceed as for pea- 
nut candy. 

Maple-Sugar Caramels. — Two pounds of maple sugar; 
one quart of rich milk. 

Break the maple sugar into small pieces, and put into 
a pan on the fire with the milk ; the pan must be deep 
enough to allow the sugar to expand as it boils ; stir with- 
out ceasing; test as usual in cold water, and when it is 
sufficiently brittle it is done ; then pour into square but- 
tered pans, and score with a knife into small tablets. 

Plain Caramels. — One pound of brown sugar ; a quar- 
ter of a pound of chocolate; one pint of cream ; one large 
teaspoonful of butter; two tablespoonfuls of molasses. 

Boil for thirty minutes, stirring all the time ; drop into 
cold water to test; when sufficiently brittle flavor with 
vanilla, and then remove from the fire and proceed as 
above. 

Molasses Candy. — One quart of good molasses; half a 
cupful of vinegar ; one cupful of sugar ; a piece of but- 
ter the size of an egg; one teaspoonful of saleratus dis- 
solved in hot water. 

Dissolve the sugar in the vinegar, mix with the molasses, 
and boil, stirring steadily ; when it begins to harden stir 
in the saleratus and flavoring to taste; then pour into but- 
tered dishes, and pull white into sticks. 

Chocolate Caramels. — Two cupfnls of light-brown sug- 
ar ; half a cupful of grated chocolate ; one cupful of milk, 
in which you have mixed a tablespoonful of flour ; a piece 
of butter the size of an egg. 

Boil half an hour, pour into buttered pans, then with a 
knife score it over in little squares. 

Taffy. — Two pounds of brown sugar ; one pint of wa- 



HOME-MADE CANDY. 577 

ter; half a teacupful of vinegar; two tablespoonfuls of 
butter. 

Stir these well together before it is put on the fire, but 
do not stir it afterwards ; flavor witli nutmeg, boil until 
brittle, then pour it into shallow flat pans that are well 
buttered. 

Cream Candy. — Three coffeecupfuls of the finest loaf 
sugar; six tablespoonfuls of water. 

Boil without stirring in a bright tin pan until it will 
crisp in water like molasses candy ; just before it is done, 
flavor it with lemon, and add one teaspoonful of cream of 
tartar; then pour into buttered pans, and when fit to han- 
dle pull it perfectly white. 

Everton Taffy. — One pound of sugar; half a pint of 
molasses ; half a pound of butter ; grated rind of half a 
lemon ; boil all over a slow fire for an hour, and pour it 
upon tins well buttered. 

Ginger -Drops. — Two ounces of candied orange peel 
beaten to a paste in a mortar, with a little sugar ; one 
ounce of powder of white ginger, mixed with one pound 
of loaf sugar ; wet the sugar with a little water, and boil 
all together to a candy ; then drop on paper in small drops. 

Currant- Drops. — Mix a quantity of fresh currant juice 
with sifted sugar nearly thick enough for a spoon to stand 
upright in it ; put it in a deep pan, and heat, stirring con- 
stantly, but do not let it boil ; then mix a very little more 
sugar and some grated lemon peel; warm, and then with 
a small stick drop on paper. 

Barley Sugar. — One pint of very strong barley water, 
strained ; two pounds of rock candy ; lemon juice to taste. 

Boil without stirring ; then pour into buttered pans and 
score into long flat sticks. It is excellent. 



578 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Gum-Drops [Cuisinilre Parisienne). — Equal quantities 
of gum-arabic and orange-flower water; dissolve the gum- 
arabic in the orange -flower water (cold process), then 
pour this mucilage on a wet marble table, and, with almost 
twice the quantity of powdered sugar and half the quan- 
tity of powdered gum-arabic, work it into little drops 
and tablets. 

Apple Sugar (Cuisinilre Bourgeoise). — To the syrup 
of tart apples, prepared as for apple jelly, add three times 
its weight of clarified sugar ; stir well, put on the fire 
and boil, stirring constantly ; as soon as it becomes brittle, 
drop on a w^et marble slab ; when it becomes cool, cut into 
strips ; roll each strip in powdered sugar. 

Pate a Bonbons {Cuisinilre Bourgeoise). — Blanch al- 
monds or any other nuts ; then pound in a mortar with 
loaf sugar (already pounded) until you have brought them 
all to a smooth, firm paste ; form into any shape you like. 
This pate is very good, and will keep for a fortnight. 

Pastilles (Cuisinilre Bourgeoise). — Sift some fine pow- 
dered sugar through a very fine sieve ; add to it just 
enough rose water to enable you to work it to a smooth, 
flexible paste ; then put it into a pastille saucepan (or 
small preserving-kettle), place over a gentle fire, and stir 
steadily ; as soon as it begins to bubble, pour out on a 
wet or oiled marble ; pour through a tiny funnel, in little 
drops ; or you may have tiny tin moulds placed on the 
marble, and pour in the pastilles ; with the above receipt 
you may make any variety of pastilles, flavoring them to 
taste. 

Burnt Almonds or Pistachio Nuts (Cuisiniere Bour- 
geoise). — Blanch some almonds or pistachio, nuts, and put 
them into a preserving-kettle with their full weight in 
loaf sugar, and half a glassful of water ; put on the fire, 



HOME-MADE CANDY. 579 

and, when it boils hard, remove from the fire and stir until 
the sugar granulates, and the almonds may easily be de- 
tached ; then take them out, and put them aside ; divide 
the sugar into two portions ; put half the sugar on the fire 
with half a tumblerful of water, and boil it until it almost 
caramels ; then throw in the almonds again, stir them until 
they have absorbed nearly all the sugar ; again take them 
out, put in the other half of the sugar, with half a glassful 
of water ; boil to a caramel, put in the almonds again, stir 
them until they have absorbed all the sugar ; then remove 
from the fire, and pour upon buttered plates ; pull apart 
the almonds which adhere. 



COOKERY FOR CAMPING-OUT. 

To Cook Crabs on the Shore. — When you reach the 
crabbing-shore, make ready your gypsy kettle, which is a 
large iron pot, swung over a blazing fire, by suspending 
it from a tripod of strong poles ; fill it with water and let 
it boil while you catch the crabs ; plunge them alive in 
boiling water ; if they show signs of weakness, throw them 
away — they are not good ; let the crabs boil until they are 
bright red, then pour off the. water, and break open the 
shells ; remove the fingers (which lie between the outer 
and inner shell), and remove also the sand-bags; all the 
rest of the crab is good, especially the fat, which is usually 
of a reddish yellow, and found in the cavity of the shell ; 
break the crab in half, and you will find the meat revealed 
like the kernel of a well-cracked shell-bark. 

Crabs Devilled on the Shore. — Pick out all the bits of 
snowy and good meat in the crab, and pack into the red 
upper shell with bread crumb, butter, pepper, salt, and 
vinegar ; lay the shell on the red embers, and bake. 

Crab Stew on SJiore. — One quart of crabs, carefully 
picked ; half a gallon of boiling milk ; a quarter of a 
pound of butter, in which a tablespoonf ul of flour has been 
rolled ; one tablespoonf ul of chopped parsley; one slice of 
onion ; one small red-pepper pod ; four peppercorns ; one 
teaspoonful of white sugar; salt to taste. 

Put into your gypsy kettle and cook. 



COOKEKY POR CAMPING-OUT. 581 

Game Broiled in Camp. — Sharpen at one end a piece 
of stick two feet long and an inch in diameter ; pre- 
pare the meat by shaping it into thin pieces, run the 
stick through the pieces, and hold it over the fire; season 
them when half done with pepper and salt, and hold 
them over the fire until cooked; be careful to use only 
coals. 

Smothered Quail. — Bury the quail in hot ashes and 
embers ; let them remain thus fifteen minutes ; then take 
them out, and remove the skin with feathers attached ; 
open them, and the entrails will fall out ; season with 
pepper and salt, and a little butter. 

To CooJc a Deer's Head in Camp. — Dig a hole two feet 
square and one foot deep ; build a fire in it, and allow it 
to burn to embers ; remove about half of the remaining 
coals, throw in the hole a thin layer of green leaves, on top 
of which put the head in the same condition as when taken 
from the animal ; cover it thoroughly with a layer of green 
leaves, and the embers and ashes previously taken from 
the hole; allow the head to roast an hour and a half, then 
remove it and pull the skin from it ; season with salt and 
pepper. 

Potatoes and Onions Roasted in Camp. — Eoll each 
onion and potato in a piece of wet brown paper, and cover 
them in hot ashes and coals ; allow three quarters of an 
hour for those of medium size. 

Opossums. — Opossums are best in the autumn, when 
the persimmons are ripe, as they eat that fruit and become 
very fat. They are never caught in the daytime. A fine 
moonlight night is the best time to catch opossums. When 
caught, put them in a cage, and feed them for several days ; 
skin and draw the opossum, cut off the legs to the first 
joint, and part of the tail; stuff the head and body like a 



582 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

turkey, and roast it before a brisk fire ; opossums are never 
eaten hot. 

Sportsman? 8 Cake. — Take a smooth board; break oil a 
strong, smooth sapling, and put it to use as a rolling-pin; 
then take one quart of white flour, four tablespoonfuls of 
butter, and one teaspoonful of salt. 

Mix it with the coldest water you can get, roll it out 
about one third of an inch thick; then lay it on a smooth, 
flat stone, which has been thoroughly heated in the fire ; 
dust this stone with flour, and then bake your cake upon 
it ; or you may pour out the grease from the frying-pan in 
which the pork has been cooked, prop up the pan before 
the fire, and bake the cake like pone. 

Sportsman? s Dodger. — Take some first-rate Indian meal ; 
pour enough boiling water over it to scald it; add salt 
to taste, and make up into little cakes; brown them in 
the frying-pan, or bake them on hot stones, or on a board 
before the fire ; they are very good. 

Miner's Bread. — Two quarts of self-raising flour ; one 
teaspoonful of salt ; one quart of water. 

Mix all together until the batter is free from lumps ; 
then bake in a pan on the hot fire. 

Maryland "Along Shore" Boast Oysters. — Select the 
largest and best oysters brought to shore, and wash them 
clean ; fill an iron pan with them, and set it on a bed of 
hot coals ; keep it there until the oysters open their shells; 
have ready another pan, smaller, fresh and clean, upon 
another bed of coals ; put into this other pan a good-sized 
piece of butter, a little salt and pepper, and some vinegar; 
then open the oysters with an oyster-knife ; drop them in 
the butter, and eat them steaming hot ; or eat them from 
the shells if you prefer. 



COOKERY FOR CAMPING-OUT. 583 

Clams, Along Shore. — Make a fire on the beach of brush, 
wreckwood, and sea-weed ; when you have a glowing bed 
of embers rake out a place for the clams, and place the 
clams, edge downwards, in the hot embers; sweet pota- 
toes in their skins, and Indian corn in its gauzy husks, 
may be interspersed among the clams ; then layers of sea- 
weed, brush, and light wood of every sort are strewn 
thickly over all, and the fire may then be lighted ; after 
an hour or more the burning embers may be scattered, and 
the clams, potatoes, and corn eaten with butter, pepper, 
and salt. 

Clam-Bake on a Rocky Shore. — Some hours before you 
want to eat the clams build a large fire on the rock ; when 
the fire has burned out, clear the embers away quickly, 
and heap a quantity of clams on the hot stone ; throw on 
also some lobsters, crabs, and oysters, sweet potatoes, and 
ears of corn ; rake over the hot embers ; cover with a 
heavy mass of sea-weed, and let shell-fish, potatoes, and 
corn steam until all are done. 

Sportsman's Stew. — Two squirrels well skinned and 
cleaned ; one small slice of fat bacon ; two quarts of 
tomatoes; six white potatoes, peeled and cut fine; two 
quarts of ochra ; one quart of Lima beans ; two large 
onions, cut up fine; one pod of green pepper; one table- 
spoonful of white sugar ; salt and pepper to taste. 

Pack the above in a hamper; light a fire; hang up your 
gypsy kettle, and as soon as you have shot, cleaned, and 
skinned the squirrels, put all the ingredients of your stew 
together in the kettle ; let them stew for four hours ; then 
add six ears of corn cut from the cob, and stew another 
hour; be very careful not to let it burn, and, if too thick, 
add a little boiling water. 

To Bake or Steam Trout. — Scour the trout with sand, 
and wash them in running water; open, and clean them; 



584 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

then wipe dry, and pepper and salt inside, and envelop in 
strong white paper, carefully buttered ; wrap each trout 
up well ; then wrap again in six or seven folds of coarse 
straw paper; dip each fish so encased into running water 
so as to saturate the straw paper; then lay the trout side 
by side in a bed of hot ashes and coals hollowed out for 
the purpose ; cover them thoroughly with the hot embers, 
and allow a minute an inch for cooking — that is, for a trout 
ten inches long allow ten minutes ; remove them from the 
ashes by inserting a long forked stick beneath, and draw- 
ing them out; unroll on a flat, hot stone; then open, 
butter, and eat ; there is really no better way of cooking 
trout. 

Anglers Planned Trout, — Open, clean, salt and pep- 
per, and butter as above; then proceed to "plank" as for 
shad. 

Angler's Fried Trout. — Take a large flat stone, wash 
clean, wipe dry, and lay on a glowing bed of embers; 
when red hot (i. <?., as hot as a stone can be) lay on the 
stone a fish prepared for cooking as above, and fry thor- 
oughly ; eat with butter and salt. 

Angler's Boast Trout. — Scour, wash, open and clean 
the fish as usual; then cut off their heads, score them 
lightly, and pepper and salt them inside and out; cut one 
or more branches (sweet birch is best), and stick the fish 
upon the twigs, running the twig along the upper side of 
the back-bone ; hold the branch before the fire ; by watch- 
ing the inside of the fish it is easy to see when they are 
done. 

Michigan Brook Trout. — Having cleaned the fish, 
find a slender, flexible branch of a tree (not pine or its 
congeners), fasten the fish by its head to the end of the 
branch, stick the other end into the ground, at an angle 



COOKERY FOR CAMPING-OUT. 585 

that will allow the fish to hang in front of the fire where 
it will get the most heat; put a small piece of pork on its 
head so that a little of the fat will run down the fish ; 
place a piece of hard tack under it to catcli the drippings; 
keep it turning, so that both sides will cook alike ; when 
sufficiently done, eat it with the hard tack. This is a dish 
good enough for Izaak Walton. 

25* 



DIRECTIONS FOR CLEANING SIL- 
VER, GLASS, CHINA, ETC. 

Louis's Receipt for Cleaning Silver. — Dissolve a lump 
of carbonate of ammonia in a pan of absolutely boiling wa- 
ter ; pass the silver through it, and dry immediately ; once 
a week rub the spots with a little silver powder, i. e. 9 fine 
whiting dissolved in spirits of wine; when this is quite 
well dried on the silver, rub each piece carefully with 
clean towels, and then with soft chamois. It will be beau- 
tifully bright. Still better than whiting is the jeweller's 
rouge, made in bars for the .express purpose of cleaning 
silver. Wash the silver every time it is used, in a pan 
by itself, with plenty of boiling water, a brush, and silver 
soap ; dry each piece as it is taken out of the water, and 
rub with the chamois cloth before putting it away. Treat- 
ed in this way silver never becomes dim, and the weekly 
polishing is not a formidable affair. 

Cleaning Pots, Kettles, and Tins. — Boil a double hand- 
ful of hay or grass in a new iron pot before attempting 
to cook in it; scrub out with soap and sand; then set 
it on the fire full of water and boil half an hour. 

New tins should stand near the fire with boiling water 
in them, in which has been dissolved a spoonful of soda, 
for an hour ; then be scoured inside with soft soap, after- 
wards rinsed with boiling water. 

Clean by rubbing with sifted wood ashes. 

Clean copper utensils with Bath brick, a little alcohol, 
and flannel. 

As soon as you empty a pot or pan, fill instantly with 



DIRECTIONS FOR CLEANING SILVER, GLASS, ETC. 587 

hot water and set on the fire to scald them thoroughly. 
Always clean and wipe dry all kitchen utensils before set- 
ting them away. 

To Polish Looking-glasses. — Wash clean with water in 
which a little soda has been dissolved, wipe dry, and pol- 
ish with a rag and a little bluing powder ; finish with a 
chamois cloth, and rub hard and long. 

To Clean Knives. — Clean with soft flannel and Bath 
brick ; if rusty, use wood ashes rubbed on with a newly 
cut bit of Irish potato. Never allow the hot water to 
touch the ivory handles of the knives. 

To Wash China and Glass. — Have two large pans of 
hot water ; wash glass first, then silver, then china ; rinse 
off in one pan, transfer to the other pan of very hot wa- 
ter, and wash with a mop and strong soapsuds, and wipe 
instantly. Never allow glass, silver, or china to drain one 
instant. 

To Wash Windows. — Dissolve a little washing soda in 
the water, use a flannel cloth, dry quickly with a soft, 
clean towel, and polish w T ith chamois-skin. 

To Bub Furniture. — If very dirty, wash off with a flan- 
nel cloth dipped in equal parts of vinegar and water; dry 
instantly and thoroughly, and at once rub with flannel 
which has been dipped in linseed oil and carefully wrung 
out; finish with dry flannel, and rub hard and long. ^ El- 
bow grease counts for a good deal in keeping furniture 
bright. 

To Clean Carpets.— Sprinkle the carpet with tea-leaves, 
sweep well, then use soap and warm water for the grease 
and dirt spots ; rub the wet spots dry with a clean cloth. 



MISCELLANEOUS HINTS. 

KITCHEN UTENSILS, ETC. ("BOSTON COOK-BOOK "). 

Hate a complete set of strainers, one of fine wire for 
sifting soda, spices, etc., and straining custards and jellies, 
others with meshes from one sixteenth to one eighth of an 
inch in diameter; also a squash-strainer and a colander. 
Extension wire-strainers are also convenient ; also a sup- 
ply of strainer-cloths made from coarse crash or cheese 
cloth, and fine napkin linen. A set of oval tin moulds, a 
melon mould, and one or two fancy moulds are convenient 
for entrees, puddings, and jellies. 

Among other useful articles may be mentioned : Dover 
egg-beaters, large and small; ordinary small wooden 
spoons and the large perforated ones; a whip churn; 
granite saucepans and stewpans holding from half a pint 
to six quarts ; double boilers ; a wire basket for frying ; 
a potato slicer ; a fine wire broiler for toast, and two 
coarser ones for steak and fish ; a set of pastry bags, and 
frosting-tubes; fancy vegetable cutters; a glass rolling- 
pin, and a small, sharp-pointed knife, made from the best 
steel, for paring potatoes, turnips, etc.; also a set of tin 
measuring-cups holding half a pint, and divided into quar- 
ters and thirds. 

Small saucepans and bowls are more convenient than 
larger ones, and granite and agate ware are lighter to 
handle and more easily kept clean than iron - ware. 
Buckets are convenient for keeping sugar and small 



MISCELLANEOUS HINTS. 589 

quantities of flour. Glass jars and wide-mouthed bottles 
are best for all groceries, grated bread, dried herbs, etc. 

A refrigerator should be carefully examined daily, and 
kept perfectly clean ; a long, stiff wire, with a bit of cloth 
at the end, should be used to clean the drain-pipe; pour 
boiling washing-soda through it every other day, and 
always wash off the slime which adheres to the water- 
pan. 

Never wash a bread-board in an iron sink ; wash it in 
cold water, and scrub occasionally with sand soap ; scrape 
the dough off the board very carefully, holding the knife 
in a slanting position, and going with the grain of the wood. 

A Dover egg-beater should never be put into water, 
but should be wiped clean with a damp cloth immediately 
after using, then wiped quite dry, and oiled with the finest 
olive-oil. 

Scrape all dishes with a wooden knife before washing ; 
put bread and cake bowls, and all dishes in which flour 
and eggs have been used, into cold water until you are 
ready to wash them. 

Keep all soiled pans and kettles filled with cold water, 
and soak them until you are ready to clean them. 

All pans should be first washed in clear, cold water, 
then in hot, soapy water, then rinsed in clear boiling 
water, and thoroughly dried with a dry, clean towel. 

Iron-ware should be washed outside and inside in hot, 
soapy water, rinsed in clean hot water, and wiped dry with 
a dry towel. 

Dripping-pans, Scotch bowls, and other greasy dishes 



590 THE UNKIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

should be scraped and wiped with soft paper, which will 
absorb the grease; the paper will be found useful in kin- 
dling. A tablespoonful of soda added to the hot dish- 
water will facilitate the cleaning. 

Kitchen mineral soap or pumice stone may be used 
freely on all dishes, pans, and kettles ; it is very cleansing. 
Tins should be washed in clean, hot, soapy water, and 
rubbed frequently with mineral soap ; they will remain 
bright. 

Saucepans, and other tin and granite dishes browned 
by use may be cleaned by letting them remain half an 
hour in boiling soda-water, then rubbing with a wire dish- 
cloth or stiff brush. 

A new tin coffee-pot should never be washed on the 
inside with soap ; wash outside, and rinse thoroughly in- 
side with clear water ; then set on the stove to dry, and, 
finally (when dry), rub the inside well with a clean, dry 
cloth ; keep a granite pan near the sink to use in washing 
vegetables. Always have in your sink an old quart tin- 
pan with holes in the bottom ; pour everything that is 
turned into the sink through this strainer, and put the 
refuse into the swill-pail. 

Use a dish-mop for cups and dishes, and a strong linen 
cloth for everything that requires hard rubbing ; wash the 
sink thoroughly, flush the drain-pipe with hot suds or hot 
soda-water, wipe the sink dry and rub with a greased cloth ; 
always keep two swill -pails, and use them alternately, 
cleaning each as soon as emptied. 

Wash dish-towels in cold w r ater, with plenty of soap, 
and rinse thoroughly in cold water every time they are 
used ; if left to dry without washing they have a dis- 
agreeable odor, and are sticky. 






MISCELLANEOUS HINTS. 591 

Every kitchen should be furnished with plenty of 
pieces of new white mosquito netting and cheese cloth 
for putting around fish, chickens, and vegetables which 
require careful boiling, also for bags for herbs and spices. 

Small squares of new cotton cloth are useful for wip- 
ing meat and fish ; keep them clean, and use for nothing 
else. 

Keep a good supply of small holders, large coarse 
towels to use about the ovens, and fine crash towels for 
wiping dishes; keep a damp towel on the table, when 
cooking, for wiping the hands. 



MENUS. 

MENUS FOR SPRING. 

Crecy Soup. 

Broiled Shad. Cucumbers. 

Supreme de Volaille. 

Hindquarter Lamb. Mint Sauce. 

Green Pease. Potato Croquettes. 

Broiled Woodcock. Lettuce in mayonnaise. 

Omelette Souffle. 

Strawberries. Coffee. 



Clear Soup. 

Halibut. Sauce Hollandaise. Cucumbers. 

Vol-au-Vent of Sweetbreads. 

Filet de Boeuf aux Champignons. 

Saratoga Fried Potatoes. Green Pease. 

Mayonnaise of Lobster. 

Chocolate Blanc-mange. 

Fruit. Coffee. 



Little Neck Clams on lee. 

Asparagus Soup. 

Salmon Cream Sauce. 

Fricandeau of Yeal, 

String Beans. Mashed Potatoes. 

Roast Chicken. Lettuce. 

Creme Caramel. 

Raspberries. Coffee. 



MENUS. 593 

Little Neck Clams on Ice. 

Puree of Green Pease. 

Boiled Cod. Sauce Hollandaise. Cucumbers. 

Chicken Breasts a la Florence. 

Asparagus. 

Poast Game. Lettuce. 

Claret Jelly. Cream Sauce. 

Fruit. Coffee. 



Dinner for Ten People. 

Little Neck Clams, iced, in the Shell. 

Bouchees a la Peine. 

Bisque a la Creole. 

Fillets of Striped Bass breaded and fried. 

Pick Cream Sauce. 

Green Pease. Sweetbread Croquettes. 

Tomatoes stuffed. 

Lamb Poast. Mint Sauce. 

Saratoga Potatoes. 

Poman Punch. 

Poast Game in Season. 

Lettuce with Cream Dressing. 

Pamequins of Cheese. 

Bird's-Nest in Jelly. Ices. 

Fruit, Nuts, etc. Coffee. 



MENUS FOR SUMMER. 

Bisque of Lobster. 

Pates of Sweetbread. 

Poast Goose. Apple Sauce. 

Green Pease. Potatoes. 

Fried Egg-plant. 

Cheese Souffles. Lettuce. 

Custard Cake. 

Fruit. Coffee. 



594 THE UNKIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Fish Chowder. 

Braised Beef. 

Baked Sweet Potatoes. Macaroni. 

Fried Tomatoes. 

Roast Capon. Lettuce. 

Charlotte Russe. 

Fruit. Coffee. 



White Soup. 

Soft-shell Crabs. 

French Chops, and Spinach. 

Chickens fried with Cream. 

Souffle of Potatoes. French Beans. 

Jellied Tongue. Sliced Tomatoes, Mayonnaise Dressing. 

Frozen Pudding. Cake. 

Frosted Currants. Coffee. 



Vegetable Soup. 

Boiled Blue Fish. Sauce Hollandaise. Cucumbers. 

Beef. Olives. Bice. Corn. 

Ham. Potatoes. Salad. 

Meringues. 

Raspberries. Coffee. 



Dinner for Eight People. 

Potage a la Princesse. 

Petits Souffles. 

Turban de Soles. Sauce Hollandaise. 

Filet de Boeuf k la Gardiniere. 

Supreme de Poulardes aux Petits Pois. 

Pate de Foie Gras en Belle Sue. 

Dindon Roti. 

Salade Saison. 

Artichauts a la Lyonnaise. 

Plum Pudding. 

Glace. Cafe Moka. 



MENUS. 595 

Family Dinner, No. 1. 

Calves'-Head Soup. 

Ignachi a la Romana. 

Mutton Chops, breaded. 

Potato Kibbon. Green Pease. 

Boast Chicken. Lettuce Salad. 

Amber Pudding. 

Dessert of Fruit and Nuts in Season. 



Family Dinner, No. 2. 

Potage a la Peine. 

Stewed Lobster. 

Vol-au-Vent of Sweetbread, Chicken, and Mushrooms. 

Roast Saddle of Mutton. Currant Jelly. 

Potato Balls. Cauliflower. 

Roquefort Cheese. Celery. 

Crystal-Palace Pudding. 

Fruit and Nuts in Season. 



Family Dinner, No. 3. 

Consomme a la Royale. 

Broiled Shad. 

Stewed Pigeons with Olives. Asparagus Points. 

Fillet of Beef. Potato Sautees. 

Mayonnaise Lettuce. Cheese Sticks. 

Sir Watkyn Wynn's Pudding. 

Dessert of Fruit and Nuts. 



Family Dinner, No. 4. 

Clam Soup. 

Baked Bass. Sauce Piquante. 

Fricandeau of Yeal. 

Stewed Tomatoes. Potato Hay. Panned Macaroni. 

Pair of Mallards. Currant Jelly. Plain Salad. 

Salad Snow, or Eahm Sultz. 

Fruit and Nuts. 



596 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Family Dinner, No. 5. 

Raw Oysters. 

Celery Soup. 

Lamb Chops. Fried Parsley. Spinach. 

Fillet of Beef. Mushrooms. 

Cheese Aigrettes. 

Transparent Pudding. 

Fruit. Nuts. 



Family Dinner, No. 6. 
Potage a la Crecy. 
Scalloped Halibut. 
Roast Goose. Apple Sauce. Potato Balls. Fried Cauli- 
flower. 
Cheese Devils. Celery. 
Claret Jelly. Cream Sauce. 
Fruit. Nuts. 



Family Dinner, No. 7. 

Ox-tail Soup. 

Croquettes of Calves' Brains. 

Boiled Leg of Mutton. Caper Sauce. Mashed Turnips. 

Potato Snow. 

Broiled Chicken. 

Mayonnaise of Celery. 

Baked Orange Pudding. 

Dessert of Fruit and Nuts. 



Family Dinner, No. 8. 

Oyster Soup. 

Stewed Kidneys. Sippets of Toast. 

Porterhouse Steak. Saratoga Potatoes. Green Pease. 

Plain Salad and Roast Partridge with Fried Bread 

Crumbs. 

Apricot Trifle. 

Fruit. Nuts 



MENUS. 597 

Family Dinner, No. 9. 

Gumbo File with Oysters. 

Devilled Lobster a la Thackeray. 

Breaded Veal Cutlets with Lemon. Spinach. Potato Hay. 

Broiled Quail on Toast. 

Lettuce Salad with French Dressing. 

Apple Trifle. 
Dessert of Fruit and Nuts in Season. 



Family Dinner, No. 10. 

Corn and Tomato Soup. 

Farcied Crabs. 

Roast Beef (rib piece). Horseradish with Cream Sauce. 

Sweet Potatoes, broiled. Salsify Fritters. Coleslaw. 

Celery and Cheese. 

Chocolate Pudding. 

Fruit, Nuts, etc. 



Family Dinner, No. 11. 

Puree of Green Pease, with Croutons of Fried Bread. 

Broiled Spanish Mackerel. 

Sweetbreads. Pointes d'Asperge. 

Roast Duck. Apple Sauce. 

Spinach. Boiled Onions with Cream Sauce. 

Lettuce Salad with French Dressing. 

Friar's Omelette. 

Fruit and Nuts. 



Simple Family Dinner, No. 1. 

Clear Son p. 

Fried Smelts. Sauce Tartare. 

Little Pates filled with Minced Chicken or Yeal. 

Roast Leg of Mutton. Mashed Turnips. Stewed Potatoes. 

Celery. Cheese. 

Apple Stephan. 

Fruit and Nuts. 



598 THE UNRIVALLED COOK-BOOK. 

Simple Family Dinner, No. 2. 

Puree of Spinach a la Darcy. 

Croutons of Fried Bread. 

Scalloped Oysters. 

Roast Turkey. Cranberry Sauce. 

Boiled Cauliflower. Mashed Potatoes, browned. 

Cheese Souffles. 

Mince Pie. 
Fruit and Nuts. 



Simple Family Dinner, No. 3. 

Mulligatawny Soup. 

Striped Bass. Sauce Hollandaise. 

Chicken Croquettes with Pease. 

Fillet of Veal, stuffed. 

Potatoes. Coleslaw. 



MENUS FOE WINTER. 

Dinner for Ten People, No. 1. 

Raw Oysters. 

Consomme or Bisque of Crabs. 

Boiled Sheepshead. Sauce Hollandaise. 

Sweetbreads. Brown Sauce. Mushrooms. 

Fonds d'Artichauts. 

Saddle of Mutton. Currant Jelly. French Beans. 

Roman Punch. 

Roast Partridge or Quail with Fried Bread Crumbs. 

Mayonnaise of Celery. 

Cheese Straws. 

Baba au Rhum. 

Ices. 

Dessert of Fruit, etc. 

Coffee. 



MENUS. 599 

Dinner for Ten People, 'No. % 

Julienne Soup. 

Small Timbales of Lobster. 

Boiled Salmon. Sauce Yerte a la Yenitienne. 

Potato Snow. 

Lamb Cutlets. Green Pease. 

Stewed Quail with Celery. 

Haunch of Yenison. Currant Jelly. 

Mayonnaise of Tomatoes. 

Hot Nesselrode Pudding. 

Cream Sauce. 

Neapolitan Ice (i. e., Water Ice). 

Dessert. Coffee. 



INDEX. 



HORS D'CEUYRES. 



Almonds. Roast, No. 1, 1. 
No. 2, 1. 
Anchovies, 3. 
Artichokes, 1. 
Butter, 3. 

" Hazelnut, 4. 
Caviare, 2. 

" Sandwiches, 2. 
Cucumbers, 4. 

" Salted, 2. 

General Directions, 1. 
Mushrooms, Broiled, 3. 



Olives, 3. 

" Stuffed, 4. 
Oysters, Pickled, 4. 
Peanuts, Blanched, 2. 

" Boiled, 3. 
Radishes, 2. 
Sandwiches, Sapsago, 4. 

" Variegated, 3. 

Sardines, 4. 
Sausage, Bologna, 2. 
Shrimps, 2. 
Truffles au Vin, 3. 



SOUPS. 



Almond Soup, 7. 
Asparagus, Green, Soup, 6. 
Bean Soup, Dried, 9. 

" Poor Man's, or Lentil Soup, 

9. 
Beer Soup, 10. 
Beet Soup, Russian, 8. 
Bisque a la Creole, 23. 

" of Shrimps, Prawns, or Crabs, 23. 
Bouillabaisse a la Marseillaise, 24. 
" " New Orleans, 24. 

Bouillon, Blanc, 11. 

" Cold, 10. 

" Mulatre, 13. 

" Succulent, 11. 
Brown Gravy Soup, 35. 
Calves'-head Soup, 9. 
Carrots, Puree of, with Cream, 7. 
Casa Linga, 13. 
Catfish Soup. 25. 
Celery Cream Soup, Cold, 19. 
Cheese Soup, 14. 
Cherry Soup, 10, 14. 
Chestnuts, Puree of, 40. 
Chicken, Puree of, 14. 

« Soup, Cold, 15. 

26 



Clam Soup, 25. 
Clear Soup a la Virginie, 16. 
Cockie-leckie Soup, 20. 
Consomme, 16. 

" a la Regale, 17. 

" & l'lmperatrice, 18. 

" aux Jacobins, 17. 

" aux Ravioles de Gibier, 22. 

" Plain, 17. 

" with Poached Eggs, 17. 

Cordiale alia Fiarentina, 20. 
Corn Soup, 7, 18. 

" and Tomato Soup, 13. 
Courtbouillon a la Creole, 25. 
for Sea-fish, 25. 
Crab Ochra Gumbo, 30. 
Cucido, Pot au Feu a la Portngaise, 36. 
Cucumber Soup, Cold, 15. 
Deer's-Head Soup a la Malmesbury, 21. 
Eel Soup, 26. 
Fish Soup, 22. 
" Stock, 22. 
French Pot au Feu, 37. 
Garspacho (Spanish Soup Salad), 29. 
German Flour Soup, 29. 
Giblet Soup, 31. 



602 



INDEX. 



Good Housekeeper's Soup, 31. 
Gumbo File with Chicken, 30. 
" " Oysters, 30. 

Hodge Podge, 20. 

Hare, Rabbit, or Graj r -Squirrel Soup, 32. 
Julienne k la Polonaise, 12. 
" aJaRusse, 12. 
Soup, 11. 
Lobster Soup, Bisque, 23. 
Mulligatawny Soup, No. 1, 32. 
" " No. 2, 32. 

Mushrooms, Puree of, 33. 
Mutton Broth, 33. 
Olla'Podrida, 34. 
Onion Soup a la Creole, 14. 
Onions, Puree of, 33. 
Ouka (Russian Soup), 28. 
Oxtail Soup, 34. 
Oyster Soup, 28. 
Parsley Cream Soup, Cold, 19. 
Pea Soup, Dried, 18. • 

" Green, 13. 
Pigeons, Puree of, 40. 
Pot au Feu, 35. 
Potage a la Conde, 38. 

" a la Crecy, 38. 

" a la Reine, 39. 

" a la Reine d'Angleterre, 42. 



Potato Soup, Irish, 16. 

Puchero, Pot au Feu a la Espagnole, 36. 

Puree de Boeuf a la Russe, 38. 

Rosol, Pot au Feu a la Polonaise, 37. 

Sago Soup with Wine, 30. 

Scotch Broth, 20. 

Sheep's-head Soup, French, 37. 

Shrimp Ochra Gumbo, 30. 

Spinach Soup a la Darcy, 40. 

Sorrel, Puree of, 39. 

" Soup, Cold, 19. 
Soup — General Directions, 5. 

" made in an Hour, 18. 
Soup Stock, to Clarify, 6. 

" to Make Good, 6. 

" to Clear, 41. 

Soupe a la Dolgorouki, 21. 
Terrapin Soup, 27. 
Tomato Soup, 16. 
Turtle Soup, Green, 26. 

" " Forcemeat Balls for, 

26. 
Turtle Soup, Dried, 27. 

" " Mock, 41. 
Vermicelli Soup, 35. 
White Soup for Supper, 40. 

" " of Jerusalem, 7. 
Woodcock, Puree of, 40. 



FISH. 



Bass, River, and Rockfish, 72. 
Blackfish, 73. 
Brandade de Morue, 47. 
Carp, a la Chambord, 55. 

" Fried, 59. 
Catfish, Fried, 46. 

" Stewed, 46. 
Chowder, Clam, 50. 

" Massachusetts, 49. 
" Rhode Island, 49. 
" St. James's Club, 50. 
Clams, Fritters, 51. 

" Raw. 51. . 

" Roast, 51 

" Scalloped, 51. 
Codfish a la Provencale, 47. 

" Balls, 48. 

" " Boston, 83. 

" Fresh. Boiled, 47. 

" Pie, 48. 

" Roast, 53. 

" Salt, Boiled, 47. 

" " Stewed with Eggs, 



Courtbouillon a la Creole No. 1, 51. 
" " No. 2, 52. 

" " for Sea-Fish, 

No. 3, 52. 
Crab Croquettes, 52. 
" Mayonnaise, 68. 
Crabs, Soft-shell, 53. 

" " a la Creole, 68. 

" Stuffed, a la Creole, 52. 
Eels, Fried, 55. 

" Stewed, 55. 
Fish au Gratin, 82. 
" Barbecued, 73. 

" Boiling, General Directions for, 45. 
" Cooked with Macaroni, 81. 
" Desiree's Courtbouillon for, 82. 
" Fricandeau of, 60. 
" Fried, Spanish Sauce for, 79. 
" Frying, 46. 
" HashJBoston, 84. 
" Pan, Fried, 77. 
" " with Sauce Piquante, 54. 
" Picnic, 69. 



INDEX. 



603 



Fish, Salt, and Potatoes, 82. 
" " Spanish Fashion, 60. 
" Salt, to Choose, 44. 
" Souffle, Boston, 84. 
" Stephanie's, a la Creole, 76. 
" Table for the Northern States, 43. 
" to Choose, 44. 
" to Clean, 44. 
Haddock and Oysters, 75. 

" Fricasseed, 75. 
Halibut, Baked, 57. 
« Boiled, 57. 

Cold Devilled, 58. 
" Mamie's Scalloped, 58. 
" Steaks, 58. 
Lobster a la Bordelaise, 56. 
" Croquettes, 56. 
" Hot, 56. 
" Potted, 57. 
Lobsters, Boiled, 55. 

" Curry of, 57. 
Mackerel, 83. 

" Boiled, 59. 

Broiled, No. 1, 59. 
" " No. 2, 60. 

" Salt, 59. 
Mullet, Baked, 61. 

Mullets or Small Fish a la Livornese, 
54. 
" with Sauce Piquante, 54. 
Oyster Fritters, 62. 
" Loaves, 61. 
" Omelette, 63. 
" Patties, 62. 
" Pie, 63. 
" " Baltimore, 63. 
" Salad, 64. 
" Sausages, 67. 
" Toast, 66, 83. 
Oysters a la Certosa, 68. 
" Boiled, 65. 
" Cream, on Half-Shell, 62. 
<; Fricasseed, 64. 
" Fried, 64. 
" " Delmonico's, 68. 

" Griddled, 65. 
" Mince, 66. 
" Panned, 65. 
" Pickled, 67. 
" Raw, 61. 
" Roast, 62. 
" Scalloped, 64. 

on the Half-Shell, 64. 
" Steamed, 65. 



Oysters, Stewed, No. 1, 66. 
". No. 2, 66. 
" to Broil, 65. 
" to Feed, 61. 
" Virginia Spiced, 67. 
Pickerel, Cream, 72. 

" Fried, 77. 
Pike, Roast, 59. 
Poinpano, 83. 
Prawns, Currv of, 57. 
Rockfish, 72. " 

" Crabbed, 73." 

Soused, 75. 
" Stewed, 81. 
Salmon a la Creole, 71. 
" Baked, 70. 
" Boiled, 70. 
" " Cold, 57. 

" Broiled k la Creole, 69. 
" Pickled, 71. 
" Roast a la Creole, 72. 
'•' Smoked a la Creole, 72. 
" Soused, 75. 
" Steaks, 71. 
" to Cook, 73. 
Salmon-trout, Baked, 72. 
" Boiled, 72. 

Scallops, Fried, 51. 
Sea Bass, Stewed, 73. 
Shad, Baked, 74. 
" Boiled, 74. 
" Broiled, 74. 
" Corned, 76. 
" Pickled, 76. 
" Planked, 74. 
" Potted, 74. 
" Roast, 69. 
Sheepshead, 74. 
Shrimp Mayonnaise, 68. 

" Pie, 49. 
Shrimps au Gratin a la Creole, 76. 
" Boiled, « 76. 

Pickled, " 76. 

<; Stewed in Tomatoes, 77. 
Smelts, Fried, 77. 
Sole, a la Normandie, 81. 
" a la Parisienne, 69. 
Sturgeon, Roast, 54. 

" " h la Creole, 71. 

Terrapin, to Keep, 77. 
Terrapins, Delaware Receipt for Cook-> 
ing, 79. 
" Maryland Receipt for Cook? 
ing, 78. 



604 



INDEX. 



Terrapins, Philadelphia Receipt for 
Cooking, 78. 
" Stewed, Eastern Shore, 79. 

Trout, Broiled in Paper, 72. 
" Brook, 46. 
" Fried, 77. 



Trout, Stuffed, 60. 

White Bait with Sauce Piquante, 54. 
Whitings, Broiled, 80. 
" Fried, 81. 

" " Fillets of, with Truffles, 

80. 



MEATS. 



Beef. 



Beef a la Mode, 99. 

" " Old Humphrey's, 89. 

" and Tomato Stew, 95. 

" Baked, 87. 

" Balls, Russian, 91. 

" Breakfast Stew of, 96. 

" Collops, 88. 

« Corned, 91. 

" " Hash, 95. 

" Dried Smoked, and Eggs, 96. 

" Feet Stewed for Breakfast, 100. 

" Grated, 97. 

" Hash, 95. 

" Heart, 96. 

" Hunter's, Gloucestershire, 90. 

' Pie, Potato Crust, 94. 

" Rib Piece of, a la Marseillaise, 101. 

" " with Mushrooms, 98. 

" Roast, on the Spit, 86. 

" Robart, 88. 

" Rolled, 95. 

" Spiced, 90. 

" Stewed Fillet of, with Mushrooms, 
92. 

" Stewed Fillet of, with Raisins, 92. 

" " Rump of, 88. 

" Tongue, 97. 

" " (Guillaume's Receipt), 98. 

" " Sauce Piquante, 99. 

" " Smothered in Mushrooms, 

99. 
Beefsteak and Onions, 93. 
" Broiled, 93. 
" Pie, 94. 
" Stewed, 88. 
Birds without Bones a la Bertini, 100. 
Bouilli, 98. 

" en Quenelles, 97. 
" Persellade of, 97. 
Meat Pies, Crust for, 94. 
Meats, Roasting, 85. 

« " Time-table for, 85. 

" the Best Way to Heat Cold, 101. 



Sirloin a la Godard, 101. 
Stew, Irish, 95. 

" Poor Man's, 97. 
Tenderloin a la Broche, 100. 

" Steaks, Sautis a Champi- 

gnon, 100. 
Tripe, Fricasseed, 98. 
" Fried, 98. 
" How to Prepare, 101. 
Turnovers, 100. 
Yorkshire Pudding, No. 1, 87. 
" " No. 2, 87. 

" " No. 3, 87. 

Vkal. 

Calf's Head, Stewed, 111. 

Calves' Brains, Cromesquis of, 112. 

" " in Shells, 112. 

Kidneys, Ragout of, 109. 
Liver, "Fried, 109. 

" Imitation Pates de Foie Gras of, 

110. 
" Pate of Calf's, 108. 
" Roasted, 110. 
" Stewed, 109. 

« " (Florentine Fashion), 110. 

Sweetbread Croquettes, 114. 

" " a la Creole, 104. 

Sweetbreads a la Blanchette, 115. 
" a la Financiere, 114. 

" a la Virginie, 114. 

Fried, 113. 
Roast, 112. 
" Stewed, 113. 

Tomatille, 104. 
Veal-and-Ham Pie, 103. 
" Blanquette of, 105. 
" Boullets, 104. 
" Chops, 102. 

" Cooked in its own Juice, 106. 
" Cutlets, Bordelaise, 109. 
" . " en Papillotes, 108. 
" Fricandeau of, 106. 
{; Galantine, 105, 
" Grillade a la Creole, 107, 



INDEX. 



605 



Veal, Grillade, No. 2, 108. 
" Minced, 103. 
" Ragout of, 106. 
" Roast Loin of, 102. 

" with Fine Herbs, 107. 
" Round of, with Anchovies, 107. 
" Sausage a la Baviere, 102. 
" Scalloped, 104. 
" Steak, 102. 

Mutton. 
Cutlets a la Milanaise, 121. 
" a la Victime, 120. 
" a la Vinaigrette, 121. 
' " Broiled, 117. 
" Stewed, 117. 
" Veiled, 121. 
Hochepot, 119. 
Mutton Chops, 117. 
" Ham, 116. 
" Leg of, Baked, with Anchovies 

and Ham, 119. 
" Leg of, Boiled, a la Anglaise, 
118. 
" Stuffed Roast, 120. 
" " Two Dishes from One, 

118. 
" Pate, Blakeley, 119. 
" Saddle of, Roast, a la Virginie, 
116. 
with Parsley, 120. 
" Steak, 118. 
Stew, 120. 

Stewed Breast of, 119. 
" Tongues, 120. 

with Tomatoes, 120. 
Sheep Kidneys, 118. 

Lamb. 
Lamb a la Poulette, 122. 
" Fillets of, a la Bechamel, 122. 
" General Directions for Cooking, 

122. 
" Quarter of, Larded and Roasted, 
122. 

Pork. 
Backbone, 135. 
Bacon, Virginia, 132. 
Blood Pudding, 137. 
Boudin Blanc^ 138. 
Brawn, 130. 



Chine, Roast, 124. 
Ham-and-Chicken Pie, 130. 
" " Sandwiches, 129. 

'• and Eggs, 128. 
" Baked, 126. 
" Barbecued, 127. 
" Boiled, No. 1, 125. 
" No. 2, 126. 
" Broiled, 128. 
" " au Gratin, 128. 

" Fried, 128. 

" Cold, 128. 
" Ground, Sandwiches, 128, 
" Roast, No. 1, 126. 
" No. 2, 127. 
" Sandwiches, 128. 
" Sliced, Tomato Sauce, 138. 
" " with Cream Sauce, 138. 
" Steamed, 126. 
" Toast, 139. 
Hams, to Cure, 132. 
Headcheese, 129. 
Hog's Head, Stuffed, 137. 
Hopping John, 131. 
Lard, 129. 

" to Try Out, 129. 
Pig, Austrian Roast, 123. 
" Young, Roasted, 123. 
Pig's Feet, Kentucky Fried, 137. 
" Soused, 135. 

Truffled, 135. 
Pig's Head, Smothered, 136. 
Pig's Liver, Pate of, 138. 
Pork and Beans, 124, 125. 
" and Pease Pudding, 125. 
" General Directions, 123. 
" Leg of Fresh, Stuffed and Roasted, 

136. 
" Loin of, Roasted, 123. 
" Pickled, 132. 
" Pie, Cheshire, 131. 
" " Yorkshire, 131. 
" Potpie, 130. 
Sausage, Bologna, 134. 
" Lyons, 135. 

Meat, No. 1 (Virginia), 133. 
'«; No. 2 " 133. 

" No. 3, 134. 
" No. 4, 134. 
Sausages, Truffled, a la Creole, 136. 
Saveloys, 131. 
Sparerib, Roast, 124. 



606 



INDEX. 



POULTRY. 



Capon a la Creme, 147. 

" with Malaga Wine, 146. 
" with Truffles, 146. 
Chicken and Tomatoes, 142. 
Boiled, 141. 
Breasts, 145. 
" Fricasseed, Brown, 141. 

White, No. 1, 141. 
" No. 2, 141. 
Fried, 144. 
Pie, 144. 
" " (Albany Receipt), 142. , 

Pillau, 143. 

" Baked, 144. 
" Florida, 143. 
Potpie, 142. 
" Pressed, 144. 
Pudding, 143. 
" Roast, 141. 

Spring, Broiled, 141. 
" Stewed, with White Stuffing, 
145. 
Duck, Roast, Stuffed with Celery, 147. 
" with Olives, 153. 
" Stewed, 150. 



Ducks, Salted, 148. 

Game, Directions for Roasting, 140. 

Goose Pie, 148. 

" Roasted, 148. 
Guinea Fowls, Roast, 148. 
Pigeon Pie, 149. 
Pigeons, Boned, 149. 

" or Squabs, Broiled, 149. 

" Roast, 149. 

" Stewed, 150. 
Poultry, Directions for Roasting, 140. 

" " General, 140. 

Turkey alia Triestina, 153. 
Boiled, 154. 

" Boned, 154. 

" " Imitation, 154. 

" Bruised, 151. 

" Devilled, 155. 
Jellied, 153. 

" Pressed in Jelly, 153. 

" Roast, 151. 

-" " with Plum-pudding Stuff- 

ing, 151. 

" Scalloped, 155. 
Wild, 151. 



GAME. 



Birds, Roast, with Hasty Pudding a. la 
Verona, 170. 
" Small, Roast, 171. 
Brunswick Stew, 170. 
Caille de Laurier, 156. 
Chaudfroid, 159. 
Duck with Olives, 158. 

" Salmi of, Cold, 159. 
Ducks, Canvas-back, 157. 
" Teal, 158. 
" Wild, 156, 157. 
" Roast, 173. 
Fawn, Roast, 173. 
Game, Broiled, 158. 

Cold, in Mayonnaise, 163. 
Directions for Roasting, 140. 

General, 140. 
Pie, 160. 

Salmi Glace, 159. 
" of, 158. 
" No. 2, 159. 
to Preserve, Untainted, 156. 
with Puree of Green Pease, 163. 
Goose, Salmi of, Cold, 159. 



Gras Grasses, 156. 
Hare, Jugged, 160. 

" Stewed, a la Minute, 166. 
Hares, 169. 

" en Papillotes, 166. 
Ortolans, 156, 165. 

" Roast, 160. 
Partridge, Broiled, 161. 

and Breaded, 163. 
Grilled, 162. 
" in Mayonnaise, 163. 

Pie, 161. 
" Roast, 161. 
" with Chestnuts, 162. 
" with Puree of Green Pease, 
163. 
Perdrix aux Choux, Louis's, 161. 
Pheasant, Roast, 164. 

" " a le Brillat Savarin, 163. 

" " English Style, 164. 

" Stewed in Malaga Wine, 164. 
Pigeon Pie, Wild, 157. 
Plover, Roast, 171. 
Prairie Chickens, Roast, 165. 



INDEX. 



607 



Prairie Chickens, Chipolata of, 165. 
Quail, 165. 

" Broiled, 165. 

" Fie, 163. 

" Koast, Larded, 166. 

" Roasted with Ham, 177. 
Rabbit, Barbecued, 167. 

" Broiled, 168. 

" Fricasseed, 168. 

" Fried, 166. 

" Pie, 166. 

" Ragout of, 167. 

" Roast, 168. 

" Stew, a la Minute, 166. 

" " Catahoula, 168. 

Rabbits, 169. 

" en Papillotes, 166. 
Rail, 165. 

Reed Birds, 156, 165. 
Snipe en Salmis, 162. 

" Puree of, a la Creole, 169. 

" Roast, 171. 
Sora, 165. 



Squabs in Olives, 157. 
Squirrels, Broiled, 169. 

" Ragout of, 169. 
Turkey, Wild, 151, 176. 
Venison, 171. 

" Chops, 176. 

" Cutlets, 173. 

" Ham, 174. 

" Haunch of, Baked, 172. 

" Roasted, 171. 

" Neck of, Roasted, 172. 
" Pasty, 175. 
" " Crust for, 175. 

" Ragout of, Cold, 173. 
" Roast, Gravy for, 172. 
" Sausages, 174. 
" Shoulder of, Roasted, 172. 
" Stewed, 172. 
' " Steaks, Plain, 176. 
" " with Sauce, 176. 

Woodcock, Broiled, 165. 

" Roast, No. 1, 171. 
" " No. 2, 171. 



VEGETABLES. 



Artichokes a la Provenc,ale, 179. 
" Boiled, 179. 
" Broiled, 180. 
" Farcis demi Barigoule, 179. 
" Fricasseed, 179. 
" Fried, 178. 
" Jerusalem, Baked, 180. 
" " Boiled, 180. 

" Stuffed, 179. 
" Truffled, a la Verona, 179. 
Asparagus and Eggs, 181. 
" Boiled, 180. 
" Hop Tops served as, 199. 
" in Ambush, 181. 
" Nettles served as, 199. 
Beets, Boiled, 182. 
" in Vinegar, 182. 
" Stewed, No. 1, 182. 
" No. 2, 182. 
Beans, Dried, 183. 
<; ' French, 182. 
" Lima, 183. 

" Kidney and other Small, 183. 
" String, No. 1, 182. 
" « No. 2, 182. 

Broccoli, 187. 

" and Eggs, 187. 
Brussels Sprouts, 187. 



Cabbage and Bacon, 183. 
" Boiled, 185. 
" Fried, 185. 
" Ladies', 184. 
" Sprouts, or Collards, 184. 
" Stuffed, a. la Creole, 184. 
Cauliflower a la Reine, 187. 
" au Gratin, 188. 

" Boiled, 186. 

" Scalloped, 187. 

" Stewed, 186. 

Carrots. Mashed, 188. 

" ' Stewed, No. 1, 188. 
" No. 2, 188. 
Chfccory, Stewed, 195. 
Corn and Tomatoes, 190. 
" Fritters, 191. 
" Green, Boiled, 190. 
" " Roasted, 190. 

" " Stewed, 190. 

" Hulled, 191. 
" Pie, 191. 
" Pudding, 191. 

" Sweet, as Prepared by Indians, 191. 
Cucumbers, Baked, 188. 

» " Stuffed, 189. 

" Fried, 188. 

" " a la Italienne, 189. 



608 



INDEX. 



Cucumbers, Raw, 189. 

" Stewed, 189. 

Dandelions, 198. 
Egg-plant, Fried, 192. 

" Scalloped, 192. 

Stuffed, a la Creole, 192. 
General Rules for Cooking, 178. 
Hominy, Baked, 193. 

" Boiled, Large, 192. 
" " Small, 193. 

" Browned, 193. 
" Croquettes, 193. 
" Fried, 193. 
Kale-cannon, 211. 

Lettuce a la Creme or a la Chartreuse, 
194. 
" au Jus, 194. 
" Stewed, 194. 
" Stuffed, 194. 
Mushroom Loaf, 197. 
" Toast, 198. 
Mushrooms a la Russe, 197. 
" Baked, 198. 

" Broiled, 196. 

" Roast, No. 1, 198. 

" " No. 2, 198. 

" Rules for Cooking, 195. 

" ScaUoped, 196. 

" Steamed, No. 1, 196. 

" " No. 2, 196. 

" Stewed, No. 1, 195. 

" " No. 2, 195. 

" " No. 3, 195. 

Nettles, 198. 
Ochra, 211. 
Onions, Baked, 200. 
" Boiled, 199. 
" Stewed, 199. 
" Stuffed, 200. 
Parsnips, Boiled, 201. 
" Buttered, 201. 
" Fried, 201. 
" Fritters, 201. 
" Mashed, 202. 
Pea Fritters or Cakes, 200. 
Pease, Green, 201. 
Peppers, Bell, 192. 
Potato Balls, 206. 

" Cakes, No. 1, 208. 
" No. 2, 208. 
" Hav, 209. 
< : Marbles, 206. 
" Ribbon, 209. 
" Scallops, 207. 



Potato Souffle, 206. 

Potatoes a la Maitre de Hotel, 204. 

" Baked, 204. 

" Boiled in their Skins, 203. 

" " without their Skins, 203i 

(i Broiled, 208. 

" Browned, with Dripping, 206. 

" Curled, 205. 

" Desiree's, 204. 

" Fried, No. 1, 208. 
" No. 2, 208. 

" Lyonnaise, 207. 

" Mashed, 209. 

" " Browned, No. 1, 209. 

" " No. 2, 209. 

" New, 202. 

" Piquant, a la Baviere, 208. 

" Roast, 203. 

" " Soyer's, 203. 

" Saratoga,"206. 

" Sausage, Soyer's, 205. 

" Stewed, with Cream, 204. 

« Stuffed, No. 1, 205. 

"« " No. 2, 205. 

" Sweet, Baked, 210. 

" " Broiled, 210. 

" " Fried, 210. 

" " Roast, 210. 

" " with Cream, 210. 

" to Boil, 202. 

" to Choose, 202. 

" to Cook, 202. 

" Tossed, 207. 

" Watery, 202. 

" with Ham, 207. 
Pumpkin, Baked, 212. 

" Stewed, 211. 
Rice, Boiled, 210. 

" Croquettes, 211. 
Salsifv, Stewed, 189. 
Samp* Boiled, 192. 
Sauerkraut, 185. 
Sea-kale, Boiled, 211. 

" Stewed, 211. 
Spinach a la Creme, 212. 

" Boiled, 213. 
Squash, Baked, 212. 
" Boiled, 212. 
" Stuffed, 192. 
" Summer, or Cymbling, 212. 
" Winter, 212. " 
Succotash, No. 1, 190. 
No. 2, 190. 
Tomatoes and Eggs, 215. 



INDEX. 



609 



Tomatoes and Green Corn, Scalloped, 
215. 
" and Ochra, 214. 
" " Scallop of, 214. 

44 and Rice, Scallop of, 214. 
Baked, 216. 

" Sliced, 216. 
" Stuffed, 215. 



[ Tamatoes, Broiled, 216. 
Fried, 216. 

" Stuffed, 216. 
" Raw, 216. 

Scalloped, 215. 
Stewed, 214. 
\ Turnips, Mashed, 213. 
i " Young, Boiled Whole, 214. 



MACARONI. 



Lambkins, Tuscan, 222. 
Lasagne, Genoese, 222. 
Macaroni, a l'Abeille, 220. 

a l'Amalfi, 221. 

a la Richelieu, 220. 

a la Sorrento, 221. 
" Baked, with Cheese, 218. 

Home-made, 217. 

Jugged, 219. 



Macaroni, Panned, 222. 
Plain, 217. 
" Stew and Brown Gravy, 217. 
Stuffed, 219. 

Timbale of, and Chicken, 220. 
" with Giblet Sauce, 219. 
" with Liver, 218. 
" with Tomato Sauce, 217. 
Tortelli alia Bolognese, 221. 



SALADS. 



Bloaters, Pickled, 227. 
Cauliflower Slaw, 232. 
Coleslaw, 228. 

" Mamie's, 232. 
Mayonnaise, 224. 

Blakely Egg, 227. 
" Cream, 224. 

Salad. Artichoke, 227. 
" Baked Bean, 228. 
" Beet, 227. 
" Celery, 229. 
" Cheese, 230. 
" Chicken, 230. 
" Cucumber. 229. 
" Dressing, Rules for, 224. 
" " Svdnev Smith's Receipt 

"for, 225. 
" Dutch, 226. 



Salad, 



Lettuce, 229. 
Lobster, 230. 
Mixed Summer, 229. 
Parisienne, 230. 
Potato and Herring, 228. 

" Plain, 228. 
Russian, 225. 
Salmon, 230. 
String-Bean, 228. 
Tomato, 229. 

Truffle, a la Toulousaine, 231. 
Black, a la Russe, 231. 
Water-cress, 230. 
Sauce for Coleslaw, Philadelphia, 

No. 1, 232. 
Sauce for Coleslaw, Philadelphia, 

No. 2, 232. 
Sauce, Marian, 232. 



CHEESE. 



Cheese Aigrettes, 235. 
" Devils, 234. 
<; Piedmontese. Sticks, 236. 
" Potted. No. 1, 237. 
" No. 2, 237. 
" Ramakins of, 237. 
" Roasted, 237. 
" Rolls, 238.- 
" Salad. 234. ' 



Cheese, Scallop, 237. 
" Souffle, 236. 
" Stirabout, 238. 
" Straws, No. 1, 238. 
No. 2, 238. 
Parmesan Fondue, 234. 
Ramequins de Dijon, 239, 
Rarebit, Irish, 238. 

Welsh, a la Braine, 235. 



26* 



610 



INDEX. 



EGGS. 



Egg Baskets, 242. 
Eggs a la Moutglas, 243. 

" a la Parisienne, 242. 

" a la Vallombrosa, 247. 

" a Zabagone, 248. 

4i al Piatto, 246. 

" au Lit, 244. 

" Baked, 241. 

" Bird's-Nest of, 250. 

" Boiled, 240. 

" Breaded, 244. 

« Curried, 248. 

" Devilled. 248. 

" Farcied, 242. 

" Fricasseed. 244. 

" Fried in Round Balls, 244. 

" Jumbled, with Shrimps, 243. 

" Pickled, 245. 

" Plover's, in a Nest of Butter, 243 

" Poached, 240. 

" " a la Creme, 240. 

" Puffed, 246. 

" Roasted in their Shells, 245. 

" Scalloped, 241. 

" Snow, 247. 

" Soft, with Anchovy Butter, 242. 



Eggs, Scrambled, 241. 
" Stirred, on Mounds, 241. 
" Stuffed, 250. 
" Tenderloin, 250. 
" to Choose, 240. 
" Truffled, 249. 
" Wisconsin, 246. 
" with Tomato Sauce, 242. 
" with Truffles, 247. 
Fondue, 249. 
Omelet, Cauliflower, 251. 
Hunter's, 250. 
Plain, 251. 
" with Artichokes, 252. 
" with Asparagus, 251. 
" with Ham, Tongue, Chicken, or 

Smoked Beef, 252. 
" with Mushrooms, 252. 
" with Oysters, 252. 
" with Tomatoes, 252. 
Omelette a l'Allemonde, 251, 
- " a la Lyonnaise, 250. 
au Thun, 249. 
" aux Fines Herbes, 251. 
Pannikins, 245. 
Spanish Gold Foam, 248. 



MILK AND BUTTER. 



Bonny Clabber, 257. 
Butter, Fresh, 253. 

" General Rules for Attending to, 

253. 
" Salt, 254. 
" " to Keep, 254. 
Cheese, Cottage, or Pot, 256. 
" Cream, New Jersey, 256. 
" Old Virginia, 255. 
Neufchatel, 256. 
Cream Curds, Devonshire, 258. 
Clotted, Devonshire, 258. 



Fromage a la Creme, Vrai, No. 1, 254. 
No. 2, 255. 
No. 3, 255. 
Junket, 256. 

Milk, General Rules for Attending to, 
253. 
" Loppered, 257. 
" Thickened, 257. 
Rennet, 254, 
Syllabub Posset, 258. 

" Somersetshire, 257. 
Staffordshire, 257. 



BREAD, BISCUIT, MUFFINS, ETC. 



Bread, Batter, 271. 

" Brown, Lowell, 265. 

New England, 263. 

William Perm's, 263. 
" " Wisconsin, Steamed, 265. 

" " with Indian Meal, 266. 

" " with Potatoes, 266. 

" Buttermilk, 264. 



Bread, Granny's, 283. 

" General Directions for Making, 

259. 
" General Rules. 261. 
" Graham, No. 1, 265. 
" No. 2; 265. 
No. 3, 266. 
" Made Soft and Quickly, 263. 



INDEX. 



611 



Bread, Milk, 264. 
" Passover, 271. 
" Rice, 264. 
" Rye and Indian, 265. 
" Short, Old-fashioned, 278. 
" " Scotch, 277. 

" Sponge, 260. 
" " Mary Anne's, 261. 

" White Family, No. 1, 261. 
" No. 2, 262. 
Briache, 285. 
Buns, Hot Cross, 284. 
Biscuit, Brown Bread, 269. 
Buttermilk, 267. 
" Captain's, 271. 
" Fayal, 271. 
" Flannel, 267. 
" Graham, 268. 

Wafer, 268. 
" Light, 267. 
" Orange, 271. 
" Raised, 269. 
" Soda. 268. 
" Wafer, 270. 
Cake, Corn, Dinah's, 283. 
" " Maryland. 281. 
" Indian, Baltimore, 281. 
" Little, 281. 
" Marv Anne's, 283. 
" Milk, 269. 

" Mush, Aunt Ginny's, 283. 
" Potato, 275. 
" Rye-flour Drop, 267. 
" Short, Shaker's, 278. 

'• Strawberry, 278. 
" Tea, 274. 
Crumpets, 269. 
Flour, to Choose, 259. 
Gems, 275. 
Johnnv Cake. South Carolina Rice, No. 

1, 283. 

" South Caroliua Rice, No. 

2, 283. 
Xantippe, 286. 

Laplanders, 270. 
Loaves, Tea, 269. 
Marylanders, 270. 
Moonshine, 285. 
Muffins, 270. 



Muffins, Bread, 272. 

Buttermilk, 272. 
" Cream, 274. 

Corn, 282. 
" Corn meal, 282. 
" Flour, 274. 

Griddle, 273. 
" Hominy, 272. 
" Indian," 282, 
" Madison, 274. 
Oven, 273. 
Rice, 272. 
Soft, 273. 
Pikelets, 274. 
Pone, Manland, 286. 

" Rice, 284. 
Popovers, 285. 
Quinimies (Mme. Eugene), 285. 

" Virginia, 285. 
Rolls, Betty's, 276. 

" Bread Biscuit, 268. 

" General Washington's Breakfast, 

275. 
" Pacific, 275. 
" Parker House, 276. 
" Potato, 275. 
" Tea, 276. 
Rusk, 276. 
" Corn, 282. 
" Dried, 277. 
Sally Lunn, 284. 
Scones, Scotch Flour, 279. 

" " Oatmeal, 279. 

Slappers, Indian, 281. 
Waffles, Beaupres, 280. 

" Grandmamma N.'s, 272. 
" Hominv, 272. 

Indian Meal, 281. 
Minute, 280. 
No. 1, 279. 
No. 2, 279. 
" Rice and Commeal, 280. 
" No. 1,280. 
'• No. 2, 280. 
Yeast Cakes, Mother's, 279. 
" for Bread, 260. 
" Potato, 260. 
" to Choose, 259. 
" without Hops, 260. 



GRIDDLE-CAKES. 



Cakes, Buckwheat, No. 1, 287. 
No. 2, 288. 



Cakes, Buckwheat, No. 3, 288. 
" Cream, 289. 



612 



INDEX. 



Cakes, Flannel, No. 1, 290. 
No. 2, 290. 
" Graham, 290. 
" Griddle, Corn, 288. 
" " Rye and Indian, 290. 

" " Vanity, 290. 

" " Virginia Batter, 289. 

" Indian-Meal Batter, 288. 
" Indian-Meal Flannel, 288. 



Cakes, Rice-Flour or Velvet, 289. 
General Directions, 287. 
Grandpa's Favorites, 289. 
Pancakes, Cream, 291. 

" Hominy, 290. 

" Mary Anne's, 291. 

" New England Breakfast, 

" Swedish, 291. 

" " with Jam, 291. 



288. 



DESSERT PANCAKES, DUMPLINGS, AND FRITTERS. 



Roulettes, 296. 
Dumplings, Apple, 292. 

" < : Baked, 293. 

" Molasses, 293. 

" Potato-crust, 293. 

White, 292. 
Fritters, Apple, 293. 
Cake, 295. 
" Dinah's, 294. 

" Frying, General Directions for, 
292. 



Fritters, Golden Ball, 295. 

" Orange, 294. 

" Passover, 294. 

" Paste for, 296. 

" Pink. 295. 

" Rice, 294. 

" Thanksgiving, 295. 
Pancakes, Frving, General Directions 

for, 292. 
Toast, German or Queen's, 296. 
Tortillas, 296. 



CAKE. 



Balls 


Lafayette Ginger, 324. 


Cak( 


;, Dover, 309. 


Cake 


, Almond, 300. 


" 


Dream, 298. 


ii 


" Loaf, 299. 


" 


Election, 312. 


(( 


Angel, 332. 


cc 


Fruit, Continental, 307. 


" 


Bachelor's, 302. 


" 


" Dinah's, 307. 


" 


Blueberry Short, 324. 


" 


" Plain, 305. 


tt 


Buckeye, 301. 


(( 


General Directions for, 297. 


a 


Caramel, 299. 


" 


Gold, 311. 


tt 


Cheese, Almond, 318. 


" 


Heart, Jennie Dean's, 322. 


tt 


•" Curd, Devonshire, 319. 


." 


Hickorv-nut, 300. 


a 


" " Yorkshire, 319. 


it 


Hurrv,*823. 


a 


" Lemon, 319. 


it 


Jelly,' 310. 


a 


" " Philadelphia, 319. 


" 


Lady, 322. 


u 


Chocolate, 304. 


" 


Lee, 308. 


it 


Christmas, 304. 


it 


Lemon, 300. 


a 


Cocoanut, 303. 


" 


Lightning Express, 802. 


" 


" Loaf, 303. 


" 


Lincoln, 309. 


a 


" Old-fashioned, 320. 


« 


Loaf, Dark, 308. 


tt 


" White, 304. 


« 


" Plain, 306. 


" 


Coffee, 301. 


tt 


Madison's Whim, 311. 


" 


Composition, 332. 


" 


Magdalen, 332. 


it 


Cream, Boston, 318. 


a 


Marble, 311. 


" 


" Dinah's, 302. 


" 


Meg Dodd's, 322. 


tt 


" Maine, 301. 


" 


New-Year's, 322. 


" 


" Raisin, 333. 


it 


Plum, Small Rich, 303. 


" 


" Sponge, 308. 


tt 


Orange, Florida, 310. 


(( 


Cup, Boston, 301. 


it 


" Vermont, 310. 


" 


" Dinah's, 302. 


" 


Pistachio-nut, 299. 



INDEX. 



613 



Cake, Pound, 309. 

" " Hocus-pocus, 813. 

" Ginger, 313. 
" " Indian-Meal, 313. 

" " Cocoanut, Kansas, 312. 

" Molasses, 312. 
" " Mrs. Washington's, 312. 

" Queen's, 306. 
" Republican, 308. 
" Rhode Island, 315. 
" Savarin, 313. 
" Seed, 322. 
" Silver, 311. 
" Sponge, a la Virginie, 315. 

" Perfection, 314. 
" Scotch, 321. 
" Spice, Dinah's, 307. 
" Sunshine, 333. 
" Thanksgiving, 300. 
" Watermelon, 333. 
" White Mountain, 315. 
Cakes, Fried, 315-317. 
" Small, 318-328. 
Chocolate, Eclairs of, 305. 
Cookies, Mary Anne's, 326. 
Rose, 321. 
" Sugar, 320. 
Water, 320. 
Crackers, Ginger, No. 1, 321. 
" No. 2, 321. 
Cream, Eclairs of, 305. 
" for Filling, 318. 
Cones, Cocoanut, 320. 
Crullers, 316. 

Plainer, 316. 
Risen, 315. 



Doughnuts, Quick, 317. 
Risen, 317. 
Drops, Cocoanut, 323. 
Gingerbread, Fruit, 330. 
Plain, 331. 
Soft, No. 1, 329. 
" No. 2, 329. 
" Spiced, No. 1, 331. 

" " No. 2, 331. 

" No. 3, 331. 
Sponge, 330. 
Ginger-nuts, 321. 
Icing, Almond, 329.. 
" Boiled, 328. 
" Chocolate, 329. 
" Quick, 328. 
Jumbles, Almond, 328. 
" Cream, 327. 
Lemon, 328. 
" Philadelphia, 327. 
Macaroons, 323. 

Shellbark, 324. 
Olicooks, Albany, 317. 
Pone, Sweet-Polato, 329. 
Prealaters, Passover, 324. 
Schnee Wandeln, 327. 
Snaps, Ginger, Old Humphrey's, 325. 
" " " Orange, 

325. 
" " Virginia, 325. 

Wafer, 325. 
Stickeys, 323. 
Wafers, Almond, 326. 
" Marv Anne's, 326. 
" No. 1,326. 
" No. 2, 326. 



PASTRY. 



Galette Italienne, 337. 
General Directions, 335. 
Mince-meat, Apple, 341. 
" Beeton, 346. 

Mock, 346. 
Philadelphia, 345. 
Pan Dowdy, 341. 
Paste, Leaf, 336. 

" Transparent, 337. 
" Puff, 338. 
" " French, 338. 
Pie, Apple, Custard. 340, 
" Green, 339. 
" " Imitation, 341. 
" " Madison, 340. 



Apple, Meringue, 339. 

" Plain, 339. 

" Rich, 339. 

" Thanksgiving, 340. 
Bakewell, 344. 

Blackberrv-and-Huckleberry, 351. 
Cherrv, No. 1, 348. 

" * No. 2, 348. 
Cocoanut, No. 1, 344. 
No. 2, 344. 
Cranberry, 352. 
Cream, 342. 

" Chocolate, No. 1, 343. 

» " No. 2, 343. 

" Cocoanut, 344. 



614 



INDEX. 



Pie, Cream, Lemon, 342. 
" " Orange, 341. 
" " Raspberry, 351. 

" Crust, Plain, 335. 
" " " Raised, 338. 

" Currant, 351. 
" Custard, 343. 
" Fruit, Austrian, 345. 
" Lemon, No. 1, 845. 
No. 2, 345. 
" Mince, 346. 
" " Edinburgh, 347. 
" Missionary, 347. 
" Orange. 850. 
" Peach, 347. 

" Dried, 348. 

" Preserved, 348. 
" " Canned Peaches, 348. 

" Meringue, 348. 
" Pineapple, 840. 
" Pumpkin, No. 1, 349. 
" " No. 2, 350. 



Pie, Pumpkin, No. 3, 350. 

" Plum, Preserved, 352. 

" " Ripe, 352. 

" Raisin, 350. 

" Raspberrv, 851. 

" Rhubarb," 353. 

" Squash, Pickering, 349. 

" Sweet-Potato, 348. 

" Yam, 349. 
Tart, Blackberry - and - Huckleberry, 
351. 

" Cherry, Preserved, 351. 

" Cream, Raspberry, 351. 

" " Strawberry, 351. 

" Currant-and-Raspberry, 352. 

" Damson, 352. 

" Gooseberry, Green, 352. 

* " " Ripe, 352. 

" Plum, 852. 

" Raspbern r , 351. 

" Rhubarb," 353. 

" Strawberrv, 351. 



PUDDINGS. 



Brown Betty, 360. 
Bubbert, Lemon, 357. 
Charlotte, Apple, 355. 
Currants, to Clean, 380. 
Dumplings, Apple, Baked, 362. 
" ' " Boiled^362. 

" " « Small, 362. 

" Centennial, 364. 

" Crvstal Palace, 364. 

" Eve's, 365. 

" Fruit, Boiled, 362. 

" Plum Duff, 363. 

" " Poor-Man's, 364. 

" Rice, 363. 

" Suet, Boiled, "863. 

" Transparent, 364. 

" Treacle, 365. 

General Directions, 354. 
Pudding, Almond, Iced, a la Russe, 377. 
" Amber, 354. 
" Apple-and-Plum, 361. 
" " -and-Tapioca, 361. 

" Baked, 357. 
" " Custard, 356. 

" « Fine, 355. 

" " Layer, 856. 

" '• Simple, 355. 

" Apricot, Iced, 377. 
" Banana, Iced, 377. 



Pudding, Batter, 359. 

" Boiled, 358. 

" Bread, 359. 
" " -and-Butter, 357. 

" " Fruit, 360. 

" Cabinet, a la Anglaise, 371. 

" Charlotte de Frankfort, Iced, 

379. 

" Cherry, 358. 

" Chocolate, 355. 

" Corn-starch Meringue, 369. 

" Cream, with Cherries, 356. 

" Currant, Iced, 380. 

" Farina, 377. 
" " Iced, 379. 

K Fruit, Poor Man's, 376. 

" George, 358. 

" Half-hour, 359, 374. 

il Hasty, 366. 

" Huckleberrv, 366. 

" Indian, Baked, 359. 
" " " Boston, 368. 

" " " New York, 367. 

" " " Pennsvlvania, 

368." 
" " " Virginia, 367. 

" <l " William Penn's, 

367. 
» " Boiled, 366. 



INDEX. 



615 



Pudding, Indian, Fried, 366. 
Lemon, No. 1, 368. 
" No. 2, 368. 
" No. 3, 368. 
Long Branch, 369. 
Macaroni, 370. 
Muscovite, Iced, 379. 
Neapolitan. 370. 
Orange, Baked, 371. 

" Marmalade, 369. 
Peach, Dried, 356. 

" Iced, 356. 
Plum, Beeton's Unrivalled, 
373. 
" One-Pound, 372. 
« Plain, 374. 
" William Penn's, 373. 
Queen's, 374. 
Prince Albert, 357. 
Ritfe, Iced, a la Bearnaise, 378. 



Pudding, Rice, Iced, a la Espagnole, 378. 
" " Poor-Man's, No, 1, 372. 

" No. 2, 372. 
Shelford, 375. 
" Sir Watkyn Wynn's, 376. 
" Sponge Cake, 360. 

Suet, Plain, 375. 
" Tansy, 355. 
" Tapioca. 370. 

Treacle, Plain, 376. 
" Venus, 354. 

Vermicelli, 370. 
Puddings, Iced, 377-380. 
Pyramid, Fruit, 365. 
Rolypoly, Cheap Suet, 374. 
" Currant, 375. 
" Molasses, 375. 
Raisins, to Stone, 380. 
Snow, Apple, 355. 
Suet, to Chop, 380. 



SWEET SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS, ETC. 



Sauce, Apple-Jelly, 382. 


Sauce 


, Old Humphrev's Aigre-Doux, for 


" Beehive. 384. 




Cold Puddings, 382. 


" Brandy, 384. 


" 


Orange or Raisin Wine, 385. 


" Custard, 383. 


it 


Poor-Man's Apple, 381. 


" Dinah's Charming, 382. 


" 


" Cream, 381. 


" Felicie's Creme d'Amande, 382. 


u 


Pudding, Delicious, 384. 


" Hard. 384. 


" 


Dinah's, No. 1, 383. 


" Hot Cream, 383. 


u 


No. 2, 383. 


" Lemon, 385. 


" 


Quick, for Cold, 385. 


" Madeira- Wine, 384. 


« 


Red Wine, 381. 


" Milk, 385. 






SAUCES FOR M 


EAT 


AND FISH. 


Beurre d'Ail, 391. 


Sauce 


, Bread, No. 1, 389. 


" de Montpellier, 390. 




" No. 2, 890. 


" d'Ecrevisses, 390. 




Brown, 388. 


Butter, Anchovy, 391. 




Celerv, 392. 


" Browned, 391. 




Cold,"for Fish, 393. 


" Garlic, 391. 




" Ravigote, 393. 


" Melted, a. la Franchise, for Sal- 




Cranberry, 398. 


mon, 391. 




Dutch, 392. 


" Old-fashioned Drawn, No. 1, 392. 




Egg, 389. 


" No. 2, 392. 




Espagnole, 388. 


" Mayonnaise, Green, 395. 




for Hot or Cold Roast Beef, 397. 


" Roux, 395. 




Hollandaise, 395. 


Sauce, Allemande, 388. 




Hot Mayonnaise for Boiled Sal- 


" Anchovv, 387. 




mon, 393. 


" Apple, 398. 




Indian or Kari, 393. 


" Asparagus, 887. 




Italian, 397. 


" Bechamel, 389. 




Maitre de Hotel, 391. 



616 



INDEX. 



Sauce, Mint, for Roast Lamb, 388. 

" Mushroom, 387. 

< 4 Onion, 392. 

" Oyster, 387. 

" Parsley-and-Lemon, 396. 

" Peacta^ 398. 

" Poivrade, 394. 

" Ravigote, 394. 

" Sardines, 396. 

" Shrimp, 396. 

" Sorrel, 396. 

" Supreme, 389. 



Sauce, Tartare, 397. 
" Veioute, 388. 
" Verte a la Venitienne, 394. 
" White, 388. 
" White Lemon, for Boiled Fowls, 

397. 
" Yarmouth Fish, 397. 
Sauces, Browned Flour for, 386. 

" Browning for Gravies and, No. 1, 
386. 
No. 2, 386. 
" Use of Wines in, 386. 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS, JELLIES, AND BLANC-MANGES. 



Blanc-mange, Almond, 408. 

Arrow-root, 409. 

Chocolate, 408. 

Coffee, 408. 

Corn-starch, 409. 

Farina, 409. 

Ribbon, 408. 

Sago, 409. 

Tapioca, 409. 
Cream, Almond, 404. 
" Bavarian, 403. 
" Caramel, 402. 
" Dutch, 404. 
" Fried, 403. 
" Lemon, 401. 
" Meringues, 406. 
" Nesselrode, a la Russe, 401. 
" Peach, 402. 
" Rose, 403. 
" Spanish, 404. 
" Strawberry, 401. 
" Swiss, 405. 
" Tapioca. Custard, 404. 
" Velvet, 405. 

" Whipped, with Chestnuts, 402. 
Custard, German, 400. 
" Pistachio, 400. 
Plain, 399. 



Custard, Polish, 400. 

" Rules for Making, 399. 
Fool, Currant, 405. 

" Gooseberry, 405. 

" Orange, 405. 
Flummery, 405. 
Frumety, 406. 
Jaune -mange, 410. 
JLelly, Bird's-Nest in, 412. 

" Calfs-foot, 410. 

" Cider, 412. 

" Claret, 410. 

" Orange, 411. 

" Ribbon, 411. 

" Wine, 411. 
Prune Mould, No. 1, 412. 
" No. 2, 413. 
Snow, Lemon, 406. 

" Solid, or Rahm Sultz, 402. 
Trifle, Apple, 406. 

" Apricot, 407. 

" Grape, 407. 

" Orange, 407. 

" Peach, 4ffi. 

" Pineapple, 407. 

" Quince, 407. 

" Raspberry, 408. 



'RESERVES AND FRUIT JELLIES. 



Bottled Fruits for Tarts, 430. 
Plums for Tarts, 430. 
Brandied Berries, 431. 
Cherries, 431. 
" " a la Parisienne, 432. 

" Grapes, 431. 
" Peaches, 431. 
" Pears, 431. 



Brandied Plums, 431. 
Butter, Apple, 437. 

" Peach, 438. 

" Pear, 438. 

" Tomato, 438. 
Candied Peaches, 427. 
Canned Berries, 433. 

" Cherries, 438. 



INDEX. 



617 



Canned Currants, 433. 
" Damsons, 433. 

Green Gages, 433. 
" Peaches, 432. 
" Pears, 432. 
Plums, 433. 
Canning, Rules for, 432. 
Cheese, Apricot, 415. 
" Quince, 420. 
Currants, Seeded, 434. 
Figs, Peach, 426. 
Ginger, Apple, 415. 
Glacees, Apricot, 414. 

" Peach, 427. 
Jam, Apple, 437. 
" Blackberry, 437. 
" Gooseberry, 436. 
" Peach, 427. 
" Pineapple, 428. 
" Raspberry, 437. 
" Strawberry, 436. 
Jellies, Fruit, 433. 

" " Rules for, 414. 

Jelly, Apple, 415. 

" Crab, 435. 
" Currant, 434. 
" " and Black-Cap, 434. 

" and Wild Cherry, 434. 
" " Cold, 434. 

" Four-Fruit, 435. 
" Grape, Green, 434. 
" " Ripe, 436. 

" Peach, 435. 
" Quince, 435. 
" Rose, 436. 
" Strawberry, 436. 
Marmalade, Apricot, 415. 

" Orange-and-Apple, 424, 

" Dundee, 422. 
" Florida, 422. 
" " St. Martin's, 423. 



Marmalade, Orange, Sorrento, 423. 
Peach, 426. 
" Pineapple, 428. 

Quince, 419. 
Paste, Apricot, 415. 
Preserved Apples, 420. 

" Crab, 416. 
" Beaufort Green Oranges, 422. 
" Cherries, 416. 
" Chestnuts, 416. 
" Damsons, 418. 

Egg Plums, 418. 
" Figs, a la Louisiana, 417. 
" Florida Lemon, 421. 
" Fox Grapes, 420. 
'* Fruits in Vinegar without 

Cooking, 429. 
" Ginger, 417. 
" Green Gages, 418. 
" Orange-Blossoms, 424. 
" Oranges, Whole, in Syrup, 420. 
" Ogeechee Limes, 421. 
" Peaches, No. 1, 426. 
No. 2, 426. 
Whole, 425. 
Pears, 416. 
" Pineapple, 428. 

Quince, No. 1, 419. 
" No. 2, 419. 
" Raspberries, Whole, 436. 
" Roses, 425. 
" Sour-Orange Peel, 424. 
" Strawberries, 41G. 
" Violets, 425. 
" Watermelon, 430. 

Pink, 430. 
Preserves, Rules for, 414. 
Raisin e de Bourgoyne, 429. 

*• de Raisins, 428. 
Sweetmeat, Green, No. 1, 421. 
" No. 2, 421. 



PICKLES. 



Chutnee, Gooseberry, 442. 

General Rules for Making Pickles, 

439. 
Mangoes, Stuffed, a la Creole, 445. 
Bell-Pepper, 442. 
Mustard, French, to Prepare, 444. 

" Tomato. 447. 
Pickle, Easy-mixed, 445. 

" Ever-ready, 445. 

" Indian, Bombav, 442. 



Pickle, Indian, Calcutta, 443. 

" " Delhi, 443. 

u Pidcock's, 442. 

" Tomato-and-Onion, 447. 
" Ripe, 448. 

" " Sweet, 449. 

Pickled Beets, 443. 

" Cabbage, Purple, 440. 

» " White, 439. 

" Cauliflower, 440. 



618 



INDEX. 



Pickled Cherries, 449. 

" Damsons, Sweet, 449. 

" Husk Tomatoes, Sweet, 449. 

" Lemons, 444. 

" Mushrooms, 444. 

" Onions, 446. 

" Peaches, Sweet, 449. 

" " Unpeeled, 449. 

" « Whole, 448. 



Pickled Pears, Sweet, 449. 

" Plums, Sweet, 449. 

" Radish Pods, 442. 

" String Beans, 442. 
Pickles, Cucumber, 441. 

" " Sliced, 440. 

" Gherkins, 441. 
Picklette, 446. 
Soy, Green-Tomato, 448. 



ICE-CREAM AND WATER-ICES. 



Creme a la Rose, 454. 

" au The, 454. 
Ice, Cheny, 455. 
" Currant-and-Raspberry, 455. 
" Genuine Italian Tutti-frutti, 456. 
Ice-cream, Almond, 451. 
" Caramel, 452. 

" Chocolate, 452. 

Coffee in, 452. 
" Custard, 452. 

" General Rules, 451. 

" Lemon, 458. 

Made of Milk, 453. 
" Nesselrode, 452. 

" Orange Fool, 453. 

Peach, 454. 



I Ice-cream, Pineapple, 453. 
" Pistachio, 452. 

" Racahout, 454. 

" Raspberry, 454. 

" Strawberry, 454. 

" Tutti-frutti, 453. 

Vanilla, 453. 
Punch, Concord, Frozen, 455. 

" Roman, 455. 
Vanilla Sugar, 457. 
Water-ice, Champagne, 455. 
" Lemon, 456. 
" Orange, 456. 
" Pineapple, 456. 
" Raspberry, 456. 
" Strawberry, 456. 



TEA, COFFEE, AND MADE DRINKS. 



Almond Milk, 460. 
Cafe au Lait, 459. 
Chocolate, 459. 
Cobbler, Sherry, 462. 
Cocoa Nibs, 459. 

" Prepared, 459. 
Coffee, 458, 460. 
Eggnog, 460. 
Flip, Beer, 461. 
Lemonade, 460. 
Mulled Cider, 461. 

" Wine, 462. 

" Orangeade, 460. 



Punch, Claret, 461. 

" Fresh-milk, 460. 

" Regent's, 461. 

" Roman, 461. 
Racahout, Arab, 459. 
Revolenta, 459. 
Sangaree, 462. 
Sherbet, Fruit, 462. 
Spiced Wine, 462. 
Tea, 458. 
" Cambric, 458. 
" Russian, 458. 



DIETARY FOR INFANTS AND INVALIDS. 



Ball, Flour, 464. 
Beefsteak, Broiled, 469. 
Biscuit,, Unleavened, 468. 
Blanc-mange, Arrow-root, 468. 

" Sea-moss, 469. 

" Tapioca, 469. 

Bouillie, Barley, 466. 



Broth, Beef-and-Hen, 470. 

" " -and-Sago, 471. 

" Calfs-feet, 471. 

" Chicken, No. 1,472. 

" " No. 2, 47?, 

" Eel, 470. 

" Mutton, No. 1, 472. 



INDEX. 



619 



Broth s Mutton, No. 2, 472. 
" Veal-and-Sago, 473. 
Cheese, Invalid's Toasted, 480. 
Collops, Bread, 477. 
Custard, Arrowroot, 473. 
Enema, Nutrient Beef, 470. 
Flounders, Boiled, 481. 
Flummery, Oatmeal, 467. 
Food for Infants, 463, 464. 
Fruit, Stewed, 477. 
Gems, Gluten, 489. 
Gruel, Children's, 474. 
" Indian-meal, 474. 

White, 474. 
" Milk-and-Rice-rlour, 474. 
" Rice, 474. 
" Sago, 474. 
" Water, 473. 
Jell} r , Arrow-root, 475. 

Wine, 475. 
" Bread, 476. 
" Chicken, 472. 
" Hartshorn or Ivory, 476 
" Iceland or Irish-Moss, 475. 
" Isinglass, 476. 
" Restorative, 487. 
" Rice, 476. 
" Tapioca, 475. 
Lemon or Orange, Baked, 488. 
Lettuce with Gravy, 480. 
Milk and Arrow-root, 466. 
" and Biscuit, 468. 
" and Bread, 465. 
" and Hecker's Farina, 465. 
" and Hominy, 465. 
" and Mush, 465. 
" and Wheaten Grits, 466. 
" Porridge, 465. 
" Rice, 467. 
" Rice-flour, 473. 
" Sago, 473. 
" Tapioca, 473. 
Mutton Chop, Broiled, 469. 
Panada, No. 1, 467. 
" 2,467. 
Pigeon or Partridge, Boiled, 481. 
Porridge, 467. 

Raisin-Milk, 489. 
Potato, Invalid's Mashed, 480. 
Surprise, 480. 
Pudding, Batter, 468. 

" Bread, with Egg, 477. 
" " without Egg, 477. 

" Graham, Hastv, 466. 



Pudding, Rice, 468. 

" Rice-flour, Hastv, 467. 
Rice, Boiled, 468. 
Sauce au Naturel, for Fish, 478. 

" Bread, 478. 

" Brown, 478. 

" Duke of York's Universal, 478. 

" White Mayonnaise, 478. 
Soup, Bread, 479." 

" Egg, 479. 

" Meagre, 479. 

" Spinach, 479. 
Tea, Beef, 471. 

" " Cold, 469. 

" " Quick, 470. 

" " Whole, 469. 
Toast, Dry, 476. 

" Milk, 476. 
Tonic, Pennington's Old Virginia Beef- 
Tea, 471. 

Drinks for Invalids. 
Caudle, 484. 
Claret Cup, 482. 
Coffee, Rice, 489. 
Drink, Alkaline, 481. 
" Almond, 482. 
" Ball, 482. 
" White, 481. 
Eau Sucree, 483. 
Eggnog, 481. 

Essence, Broiled Beef, 488. 
Fennel Seeds Steeped in Brandy, 485. 
Julip, Hailstorm, 483. 
Laban, 489. 
Lemonade, 483. 

" Flax-seed, 484. 

" Irish-Moss, 484. 

Punch, Milk, 482. 

" " and Egg, 482. 
Sangaree or Porteree, 482. 
Tea, Aniseed, 485. 
" Broiled Beef, 488. 
" Catnip, 485. 
« Chamomile, 486. 
" Clove, 485. 
" Corn, 489. 
' ; Gentian, 486. 
" Green Strawberry Leaf, 486. 
" Linseed, 483. 
" Malt, 481. 
" Mint, 485 
" Oatmeal, 486. 
" Parslev Root, 486. 



620 



INDEX. 



Tea, Pennvroval, 486. 

" Portable' Beef, 488. 

" Kose, 486. 

" Sage, 486, 487. 

" Slippery-Elm Bark, 482. 

" Tansy and Rue, 485. 

' ; Violet, 485. 
Toddy, Apple, 483. 
Wash, Cleansing, for the Mouth, 487. 
Water, Apple, 484. 
Barley, 481. 



Water, Gum-Arabic, 483. 

" Jelly, 484. 

" Lemon, 484. 

" Linseed, 483. 

" Quince, 484. 

" Toast, 483. 
Whey, Alum, 482. 

" Rennet, 487. 

" Tamarind, 487. 

" White Wine, No. 1, 487. 

" " " No. 2, 487. 



GENERAL HINTS FOR THE SICK-ROOM. 



Bandages, Hot, 491. 
Conveniences in Sick-room, 491. 



Diet, General Hints as to, 491-493. 
Ice, to Keep in a Sick-room, 491 . 



HOUSEHOLD, TOILET, AND MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 



Household Receipts. 

Awnings, to Render Waterproof, 503. 
Bain-Marie, to Manage, 503. 
Black Goods, to Clean, 496. 
Brasses, to Clean, 494. 
Calicoes, to Wash Doubtful, 497. 
Carpets, to Remove Grease from, 499. 
Crape, to Renew Wrinkled, 497. 
Drinking-water, Bad, 503. 
Eggs, to Preserve, 494. 
Feathers, to Curl Tumbled, 498. 
Fire, Clothes Catching, 499. 

" to Escape from, 499. 
Flannel, to Shrink, 501. 
Floors, for Staining Wooden, 500. 
Glue for Ready Use, 503. 
Horses' Feet, to Prevent from Scalding 

or Cracking, 501. 
Insects, to Drive away, 502. 
Kerosene Flames, to Extinguish, 501. 
Lace, to Wash Black, 497. 

" " Tidies Made of Antique, 

497. 

" •« White Edging, 497. 

Lampwicks, to Prevent from Smoking, 

499. 
Lawns or Thin Muslin, to Wash, 497. 
Lime Juice, to Preserve, 494. 
Linen, to Restore Scorched, 501. 
Marble Floor, to Clean, 495. 
Mason, Your Own, 501. 
Mats, to Preserve Sheepskins for, 502. 
Mildew, 495. 
Milk, to Preserve, 494. 



Mosquitoes, to Drive away, 502. 
Needle, to Draw out a Broken, 499. 
Paint, Smell of, 502. 

" to Clean, 495. 
Plants in a Room, 500. 
Rats, to Drive away, 502. 
Scouring Spirit, General, 502. 
Silk, to Smooth Wrinkled, 496. 

" to Wash, 496. 
Soft- Soap, to Make, 498. 
Stains, Acid and Alkali, 496. 

" Ink, 495. 

" Iron Mould, 495. 

" on Silk or Woollens, 496. 

" to Remove from Marble, 495. 

" " Port and Claret, 499. 

Straw Matting, to Clean, 495. 
Steel Pens, to Restore Worn, 499. 
Tea-kettles, to Clean, 499. 
Velvet, to Restore the Pile of, 498. 
Water, to Purify Foul, 503, 

" to Soften Hard, 503. 
Wine Bottles, to Clean, 494. 
Woollen Goods. Mixture for Sponging, 

498. 
Woollens, to Keep, 498. 
" to Wash, 496. 
Yeast, to Sweeten Bitter, 499. 

Toilet Receipts. 

Ball, Almond, 504. 
Balsam, Gtycerine, 504. 
Cold Cream, No. 1, 504. 
No. 2, 504. 
Freckles, Lotion for, 503. 



INDEX. 



621 



Hair, Rosemary Tea for, 505. 

" Stimulant for, 505. 

" Wash, 505. 
Pomade Angelique, 505. 

" Divine, 505. 
Salve, Red Lip, 504. 
Scalp, Wash for the, 505. 
Scent Jar, Old-fashioned, 507. 
Skin, Wash for Roughness of, 505. 
Vinegar, Aromatic, 506. 
" Thieves', 506. 
Water, Cologne, 506. 

" Honey, 506. 

" Hungary, 506. 

" Lavender, 506. 

Medical Receipts. 
Antidote to Acids, 507. 

" Antimony, 507. 

" Arsenic, 507. 

" Chloride of Zinc, 507. 

" Copper, 507. 

" Green Vitriol, 508. 

" Iodine, 508. 

" Laudanum, 508. 

" Lead, 508. 

" Lunar Caustic, 508. 

" Mercury, 508. 

" Nitre, 508. 

" Phosphorus, 508. 

" Poisonous Fish, 508. 

" Poisonous Plants, 508. 

" " Tin, 507. 
Asthma, 509. 

Bandage, Alcohol, for Sore Throat, 514. 
" Cold Water, 514. 
" Red-Pepper, 514. 
Bleeding at the Nose, Lotion for, 512. 
Blood, to Stop the Flow of, 509. 



Burns, Lotion for, 510. 
Chilblains, for Broken, 511. 

" Liniment for, No. 1, 511. 

li " No. 2, 511, 

Cholagogue, 511. 
Cold, Remedy for, 510. 
Constipation, Excellent Enema for, 512. 
Croup, 509. 
Earache, 511. 
Flannel, Wet Hot, 513. 
Oil, Camphorated, 510. 
Poultice, Alum, 516. . 

" Barm-and- Oatmeal, for Sore 
Throat, 514. 
Bran, 515. 
Bread-and-Milk, 514. 

" Flaxseed, 515. 

" Hemlock. 516. 

" Linseed, 515. 

" Meal, 515. 

" Mustard. 516. 

" Mutton-Suet. 516. 

" Yeast, 515. 
Poison, Antidotes to, 507. 
Rubefacient, Powerful, 510. 
Salt, Hot, 513. 
Scolds, Lotion for, 510. 
Skin, for Chopped, 511. 
Snake, Bite of a, 509. 
Stings, to Treat, 509. 
Sunstroke, 509. 
Throat, Gargle for Sore, No. 1, 512. 

" " " No. 2, 512. 

" " " No. 3, 512. 

Whooping Cough, 512. 
Worms, Remedy for, No. 1, 513. 

" ' " No. 2, 513. 

" Injection for Pin, No. 1, 513. 

" " " No. 2, 513. 



BOTTLED SAUCES, CATSUPS, VINEGARS, AND ESSENCES. 



Capers, Mock, 522. 
Catsup, Butternut, 519. 
" Cucumber, 520. 
" Lemon, 519. 
" Mushroom, 521. 
" Oyster, 520. 
" Tomato, 520. 
" Walnut, 519. 
Essence of Caraway Seeds, 523. 
" Citron, 523. 
" Mace, 523. 
" Marjoram, 524. 



Essence of Orange or Lemon Peel, 524. 
" Savory Spices, 524. 
" Spinach, 524- 
Lard, Spiced, 525. 
Mustard, Made, 525. 
Parsley, Roast, 524. 
Powder, Curry, No. 1, 517. 
" No. 2, 517. 
" Mushroom, 517. 
Salt, Celery, 523. 

" Spice, 523. 
Sauce, Caramel for, 518. 



622 



INDEX. 



Sauce, Caramel for, with Bordeaux Wine, 

518. 
Sauce, India, No. 1, 517. 
" No. 2, 518. 

" Piquante, Essence for, 523. 

" Table, 518. 
Soup, Caramel for, with Bordeaux Wine, 

518. 



Tincture of Celery, 519. 

Cochineal, 518. 
Vinegar, Celery, 521. 

" Horseradish, 521. 

Onion, 522. 
" Pepper, 522. 
Spiced, 522. 
Zest, 524. 



BOTTLED DRINKS. 



Beer, 527. 
" Boneset, 526. 
" Cream, 526. 

" Ginger, 527. 
" Ginger, 527. 
" Sassafras, 527. 
" Small, 526. 
" Spruce, 526. 
Bitters, Fine, for Ague Regions, 528. 

" Wine, 528. 
Bounce, Cherrv, No. 1, 528. 
" * No. 2, 528. 
Cider, Artificial, 529. 
" to Bottle, 529. 
Cordial, Blackberry, 529. 

Kentucky, 529. 
" Black-Currant, 530. 
« Ginger, 529. 
" Mint, 530. 

" Mississippi Pomegranate, 530. 
" Raspberry, 531. 



Curacoa, 531. 

Kirsch, 531. 

Maraschino, 531. 

Orgeat, 531. 

Punch, Lemon, to Keep, 531. 

" Milk, to Keep, 531. 
Raspberry, Royal, 533. 
Shrub, Currant, 532. 
Syrup, Lemon, 532. 

" Lime, 532. 
Vinegar, Raspberry, 533. 
Wine, Blackberry, 534. 

" Black-Currant, 533. 

" Cranberry, 534. 

" Elderberry, 534. 

" Florida Orange, 535. 

" Raisin, 535. 

" Red-Currant, 533. 

" Rhubarb, 534. 

" Strawberry, 534. 



MISCELLANEOUS SAVORY DISHES. 



Beef, Potted, 536. 

Boar, Wild, in Dolceforte, 537. 

Boeuf, Croutes a la Mcelle de, 537. 

Brawn, Breakfast, 537. 

Brewis, 540. 

Brother Jonathan, 539. 

Butter, Green, 539. 

Chicken Cream, 536. 

" Crow's Fried, 541. 
" Jellied, 540. 
" Livers, Neapolitan, 542. 
" Potted, 538. 
Cream Cheese, Green, 539. 
Croquettes de Fines Herbes, 544. 
Farina, 544. 
" Milanaise, 542. 

" Russian Bread, 543. 

" Spinach, 543. 

" Crowdie, Scotch, 552. 

Curry, Bombay, 542. 
•• * Madras. 543. 



Fish, Curried, 544. 
Haslet Stew, 552. 
Ignachi a la Romana, 553. 
Kedgeree, No. 1, 545. 
No. 2, 545. 
Kidnevs a la Vieville, 545. 

<; . Devilled, 545. 

" Stewed, 545. 
Kromeskys, Russian, 546. 
Jelly, Aspic, 540. 
Livers, Ragout of, 541. 
Lentils or Beans, Baked, 551. 

" " Boiled, 551. 

" Fried, 551. 

" Stewed, 552. 
Marrow Patties, 546. 
Marrow-bones, Hot, 536. 
Oatmeal and Pease, 552. 
Onions, Spanish, a la Grecque, 547. 
Pepperpot, 547. 
Peppers, Stuffed, 546. 



INDEX. 



623 



Pie a la Bonne Menagere, 547. 
44 Calfs-Head. 548. 
" Giblet. 547. 
" Potato. 547. 
Podovies, or Beef Patties, 547. 
Pudding. Cheese, 553. 

" Cbicken-and-Corn, 542. 
" Pease, 553. 
Kaviolo, 542. 

of Herbs, 548. 



Risotto a la Neapolitaine, 549. 

" for Epicures. 549. 

" with Oysters, 549. 
Rice. Savory. 540. 
Salpicion, 541. 
Scrambles, 538. 
Toast, Dutch Cream, 551. 
Tripe. Stewed. 553. 
Wet Devil. 554. 
Woodcock, Scotch, 550. 



MISCELLANEOUS DESSERTS. 



Almond Marmalade, 565. 
Aniseed Balls. 555. 
Apple Cake. 556. 

" Charlotte. 562. 

" Citron, 565. 

44 Pudding, or Friar's Omelet, 560. 

44 Slump. Rhode Island, 560. 

44 Stephen, 560. 
Apples, Baked, 555, 556. 
Coddled. 556. 

44 Conde of Pears. Apricots, and, 557 

" Flambautes, 558. 

44 Fried, 561. 

44 or Pears, Compote of, 558. 

44 Stewed, 569. 
Stuffed, 568. 

44 with rjutter, 557. 

44 with Meringue, 558. 

44 with Rice, 557. 
Apricot, Cheese, 562. 
Apricots, Croutes, 559. 
Fried, 561. 
Stuffed, 568. 
Charlotte-Russe, Florida. 563. 

44 Plain, 563. 

Cheese, Siberian Crab, 556. 
Chestnuts, Souffle of, 555. 
Cocoanut Marmalade, 565. 
Currant Grant, 564. 
Damson Cheese, 561. 
Figs, Fried, 561. 
Gooseberry Cake, 564. 
44 Cheese, 564. 

44 Cups, 563. 

Hickory-nut Balls, 555. 
Macedoine of Fruit, 559. 
Meringue, Philadelphia. 566. 
Omelette au Rhum, 566. 



Omelette au Sucre, 566. 

44 aux Confitures. 567. 
44 aux Pommes, 566. 
44 Souffle, 567. 
Peach Charlotte, 562. 

Fresh, 562. 
Peaches, Croutes of, 558. 
Fried. 561. 
Stuffed. 568. 
Pears, Baked, 569. 
44 Stewed, 570. 

44 44 Brown, 570; Italian, 570. 

44 Stuffed, 568. 
Plums, Croutes of, 559. 

44 Fried, 569. 
Quinces. Baked, 569. 
Rice Meringue. 565. 

44 Panada. 567. 
Rusks, Light Snow Dessert, or Dampf- 

Nudeln, 571. 
Souffle au Cafe, 571. 
44 au Riz, 570. 
Tipsv Charlotte, 562. 
Tot Fait, 571. 

44 with Fruit, 571. 

Ripe Fruit for Dessert. 

Ambrosia, 573. 

Apples, 573. 

Apricots, 572. 

Currants and Raspberries, 573. 

44 Crystallized, 574. 
General Rules for Ripe Fruit, 572. 
Peaches, 572. 
Pears, 573. 
Plums, 572. 
Orange Salad. 573. 
Tutti-Frutti Fruit Salad, 573. 



HOME-MADE CANDY. 



Burnt Almonds, 578. 
44 Pistachio Nuts, 578. 



'■■ Candy, Almond, 575. 
44 Cocoanut, 575. 



624 



INDEX. 



Candy, Cream, 577. 

" Hickory-nut, 575. 

" Molasses, 576. 

" Peanut, 575. 

" Walnut, 575. 
Caramels, Chocolate, 576. 

Maple-Sugar, 576; Plain, 576. 
Drops, Currant, 577. 



Drops, Ginger, 577. 

" Gum, 578. 
Pastilles, 578. 
Pate a Bonbons, 578. 
Sugar, Apple, 578. 

" Barley, 578. 
Taffy, 576. 

" Everton. 



COOKERY FOR CAMPING-OUT. 



Bread, Miner's, 582. 
Cake, Sportsman's, 582. 
Clam-Bake on a Rocky Shore, 583. 
Clams Along Shore, 583. 
Crabs, Cooking, on Shore, 580. 

" Devilled, on Shore, 580. 

" Stewed, on Shore, 580. 
Deer's Head, to Cook in Camp, 581. 
Dodger, Sportsman's, 582. 
Game Broiled in Camp, 581. 
Onions Roasted in Camp, 581. 



Opossum, 581. 

Oysters, Maryland "Along Shore" 

Roast, 582. 
Potatoes Roasted in Camp, 581. 
Quail, Smothered, 581. 
Stew, Sportsman's, 583. 
Trout, Angler's Fried, 584. 

" Planked, 584. 
" Roast, 584. 

" Michigan Brook, 584. 

" to Bake or Steam, 583. 



DIRECTIONS FOR CLEANING SILVER, GLASS, CHINA, ETC 

Carpets, to Clean, 587. 
China, to Wash, 587. 
Furniture, to Rub, 587. 
Glass, to Wash, 587. 
Kettles, to Clean, 586. 
Knives, to Clean, 587. 



Looking-glasses, to Polish, 587. 

Pots, to Clean, 586. 

Silver, Louis's Receipt for Cleaning, 

586. 
Tins, Cleaning, 586. 
Windows, to Wash, 587. 



MISCELLANEOUS HINTS. 



Bread and Cake Bowls, to Soak, 589. 

" Board, to Clean, 589. 
Coffee-Pot, to Clean, 590. 
Cotton Cloth for Wiping Meat and Fish, 

591. 
Dish-Mop for Cups and Dishes, 590. 

" Towels, to Wash, 590. 
Dishes, to Scrape, 589. 
Dripping - Pans, Scotch Bowls, etc., to 

Scrape, 589. 
Egg-Beater, Dover, to Clean, 589. 
Holders, 591. 



Iron- ware, to Wash, 589. 
Kettles, to Soak, 589. 
Kitchen Utensils, Useful, 588. 
Pans, to Soak and Wash, 589. 
Pumice Stone, to Use, 590. 
Refrigerators, Examining and Cleaning, 

589. 
Saucepans, Tin and Granite - ware, to 

Clean, 590. 
Soap, Kitchen Mineral, to Use, 590. 
Towels, 591. 



Dinner for Eight People, 594. 

" for Ten People, 593, 598, 599 
Family Dinners, 595-597. 

" " Simnle. 597, 598. 



MENUS. 

Menus for Spring, 592, 593. 
" for Summer, 593-598. 
" for Winter, 598, 599. 



The following blank pages are intended for the preserva- 
tion of additional receipts. 



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